Best Places in Istanbul Where the World Really Holds on!

8/8/2019 Best Places in Istanbul Where the World Really Holds on!

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Guide Description

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AUTHOR NOTE: There is something for everyone in Istanbul,when it comes to partying at night. Contemporary modern music,popular music, rock, house, techno, hip-hop... Themed parties,de tableu entertainment or bar hopping in the back streets. It isimpossible not to have fun in this big city...


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Itinerary Overviewthings to do

restaurants

hotels

nightlife

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Day 1 - Istanbul

DAY NOTE: Given its positioning, the view from its dock, itsatmosphere, and the huge chandelier that seems as if it ishanging from the sky over the club, Reina is definitely a must-visitplace for party-goers of Istanbul. It is a chic and elegant place, aplace where people reserve high-tables and/or lounges to danceinto the morning, not just the night...Following Reina on the list is NuTeras. Another very entertaining,very trendy place with a vast view of the Bosphorus and Istanbulfrom the top of a huge terras. NuTeras is for the casual chicpeople. It is to take an evening, after work drink or to dance intothe night casually, easily and comfortably...Anjelique is a trendsetter with its DJs, music and concepts. Itoverlooks the Ortakoy mosque and the bridge: an enchanting andmystical view during the night. Very much preferred by the locals.

..Otto and Babylon do not follow each other; they rathercomplement each other. Start hanging out at Otto from 10 pmuntil a little after midnight and then head out for a lively concert atBabylon later on. The hazelnut shots at Otto: OTTIMO!!!..Otto and Babylon are both on Asmali Mescit: the most crowdedand the trendiest bar street of Istanbul, located in the bohemianquarter of Beyoglu. Reserve your dinner here for 8 PM and thendon't leave these streets until 3-4 AM. There are also cool after-hour places, and traditional buffets that make Turkish pizzas inAsmali Mescit, where you can either not end the night, or satiateyour hunger before you hit for home or your hotel...

360 Istanbul is another famous nightclub, especially among theforeigners, for its 360 degrees panoramic view... There are alsolive music events here as well during and perhaps a little afterdinner time. Check out its Web site for more information...Mojo and Roxy are alternative places to go. These are closedspaces, and are always very crowded. Cheaper as well...Going down to the very botton of our list: Samdan. This is oneof the very old nightclubs of Istanbul, very much preferred bythe social elites of the city. Exclusive and elegant. Hard to getin, reservations may be necessary. Also, open in winters only -moves out to Reina for the summer season.

ReinaThe finest Bosphorus shore club in Turkey

Nu ClubPopular nightclub, casual style, hip people, themedparties

AnjeliqueLocals love the DJ in this on-the-Bosphorus hip club

OttoHappening Nightclub in Beyoglu

BabylonFor best live music performances and more

Asmalimescit SokakThe trendy bar, restaurant and tavern street

360 IstanbulPanoramic destination

Mojo70s time warp

RoxyInternational rock, pop and techno

SamdanOne of the oldest and most elitist nightclubs ofIstanbul


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Day 1 - IstanbulQUICK NOTE

DAY NOTE: Given its positioning, the view from its dock, its atmosphere, and the huge chandelier that seems as if it is hanging from the

sky over the club, Reina is definitely a must-visit place for party-goers of Istanbul. It is a chic and elegant place, a place where people

reserve high-tables and/or lounges to dance into the morning, not just the night...Following Reina on the list is NuTeras. Another very entertaining, very trendy place with a vast view of the Bosphorus and Istanbul

from the top of a huge terras. NuTeras is for the casual chic people. It is to take an evening, after work drink or to dance into the night

casually, easily and comfortably..

.Anjelique is a trendsetter with its DJs, music and concepts. It overlooks the Ortakoy mosque and the bridge: an enchanting and mystica

view during the night. Very much preferred by the locals...Otto and Babylon do not follow each other; they rather complement each other. Start hanging out at Otto from 10 pm until a little after

midnight and then head out for a lively concert at Babylon later on. The hazelnut shots at Otto: OTTIMO!!!..Otto and Babylon are both on Asmali Mescit: the most crowded and the trendiest bar street of Istanbul, located in the bohemian quarter

of Beyoglu. Reserve your dinner here for 8 PM and then don't leave these streets until 3-4 AM. There are also cool after-hour places,

and traditional buffets that make Turkish pizzas in Asmali Mescit, where you can either not end the night, or satiate your hunger before

you hit for home or your hotel...

360 Istanbul is another famous nightclub, especially among the foreigners, for its 360 degrees panoramic view... There are also livemusic events here as well during and perhaps a little after dinner time. Check out its Web site for more information...Mojo and Roxy are alternative places to go. These are closed spaces, and are always very crowded. Cheaper as well...Going down to the very botton of our list: Samdan. This is one of the very old nightclubs of Istanbul, very much preferred by the social

elites of the city. Exclusive and elegant. Hard to get in, reservations may be necessary. Also, open in winters only -moves out to Reina

for the summer season.


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Day 1 - continued...

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contact:tel: 90 30 212 259 5919 / 9030 212 259 5921fax: 90 30 212 260 1083http://www.reina.com.tr/eng/

location:Muallim Naci Caddesi 44Istanbul

hours:Call for timings

1 Reina

DESCRIPTION: One of the hottest clubs in Turkey, Reina isactually a vast playground filled with bars, restaurants anddance floors that can welcome up to 2500 people. Supposedly,the name 'Reina' was inspired by a 'very cute' 3-year-old girl(wCities). In the past few years, Reina has been becomingmore and more "less local." Yet, high-fliers, millionaires,celebrities and media moguls continue to mix and mingle underone roof. This has to do with its vast popularity and scenery,which have made it very famous worldwide and thus verycrowded. It is located at the foot of the European side with amagnificent view of the Bosphorus Bridge. It is open everyseason, yet moves out to its vast open space in the summers.The place gets renovated right down to its toilets almost everyseason and opens both its winter and summer seasons with

huge parties. The restaurants inside this complex run thegamut from Italian to Sushi to more traditional local fare. Manywell-known restaurants including Kosebasi Kebab, SamdanRestaurant and Dragon Chinese Restaurant move into Reinafor the summer season. Nevertheless, you may not be able tofind the same restaurant here season after season: Who paysthe piper calls the tune... NileGuide

Azure Elixir

contact:tel: 90 212 245 6070http://www.marsentertainmentgroup.com.tr/

location:Tepeba Mesrutiyet Caddesi147-149Istanbul

hours:Lunch: daily noon-3p, Dinner:daily 7p-midnight

2 Nu Club

OUR LOCAL EXPERT SAYS:Nu Pera, Nu Club or Nu Teras... All names lead toone place.

DESCRIPTION: This two-level nightclub, formerly knownas NuPera, now also called Nu Club, happens to be the NuTerrace in summers. It is located within the NuPera complexin the Beyoglu neighborhood, enclosing three restaurantsinside during the winter and the regular Nu Restaurant on theterrace in the summer. In terms of its clientele, there are novast seasonal differences in winter and summer. On the otherhand, the concept of the place tends to change a bit. Duringwinters, the three rooms, in which the three restaurants are,rock to different types of music, making an enchanting club

environment that allows you to bar-hop without putting on yourjacket at all. The restaurants inside are Moreish, Nu Restaurantand Lilbitz, offering a range of fusion, world and tapas food.During the summer, the inner places close down and only theterrace area is open for both dinner and entertainment. Theplace does tend to be crowded, making getting in a tough workat times; but this does not deter the regulars, who jostle forelbow-space on the dance floor. An eclectic range of music isplayed by the DJs here, and that includes hip hop, house and

Julius!


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location:Asmal Mescit BeyoluIstanbul

6 Asmalimescit Sokak

DESCRIPTION: Given its popularity among the Turkish night-outers and bar hoppers, AsmaliMescit -called simply 'Asmali' by the locals, deserves a special reference under the "Things to do"section. In which case, we need also to answer, "what to do" at Asmali. Asmali Mescit is an innerstreet between the more common Istiklal Caddesi and the Mesrutiyet Caddesi. It used to be asimple artisan street with a few taverns, butcher shops and markets lining side by side. Now, it is alively bar street with a new bar popping up even in the most incomprehensible, small corners. Assuch, Asmali has also come to refer to general mode of going out and to a compilation of variousstreets -not just the Asmali itself. Otto Sofyali on the Sofyali Street with the original Otto lying furtherdown towards the Tunel area on Sehbender Street, Groove, Novo, Corner, Parantez, House CafeTunel and too many other bars -none of which deserve any special reference or attention, sinceall are almost the same- crowd these parallel and crossing streets of the Tunel and Asmali Mescitarea. At the Pera end of this district are the Turkish taverns including the gourmet Asmali Cavit andGurme Boncuk. A night out at the Asmali usually means a slow meal at a tavern, followed by toomany drinks to be taken out on the street, whilst bumping into an old friend or two. NileGuide

contact:tel: 90 212 251 1042 / 90 212251 1043fax: 90 212 251 1048http://www.360istanbul.com/

location:Misir Apt. K:8 N:32/309Istanbul 80600

7 360 Istanbul

DESCRIPTION: With views as good as this, it's no wonder thatIstanbul is sprouting restaurant and bar venues in what aretraditionally apartment or office buildings. 360 Istanbul takesadvantage of the belfry of St. Antoine and panoramic viewsof the Golden Horn; on a cool summer's eve, there's reallyno better place to be. The decor is an unexpectedly pleasingamalgam of brick, steel, glass, and velvet; tables, alfrescobanquettes, and a lounge area ensure that everybody getssomething he or she wants. The Thai and Turkish menu israther beside the point, although, there are plenty of appetizersand finger foods to hold you over for the real meal. Go early

for the best outdoor seating, or arrive late and mill about thewraparound terrace. Reservations are suggested for dinner(main courses 20YTL-34YTL/$17-$30/7.60-13). Open dailynoon to 1am. Frommer's

.

contact:tel: 90 212 243 2927

location:Bykparmakkapi Sokak 26Istanbul

hours:

Daily until 4a

8 Mojo

DESCRIPTION: Basement spaces have become a popular setting for Istanbul's slowlydeteriorating rock scene. This poorly illuminated hole-in-the-wall is decorated with huge posters ofthe rock 'n' roll pantheon. The place hosts conservative traditional rock groups performing the backcatalogs of the Doobie Brothers, Supertramp, The Eagles and much more. It's an excellent spot toexperience a chilling 70s time warp sensation. The occasional blues act that turns up is usually a

little better. The live music starts at midnight. wcities.com

contact:tel: 90 212 245 6539fax: +90 212 252 2708http://www.roxy.com.tr

location:

9 Roxy

DESCRIPTION: Roxy is a well-established live music venue, located just a short walk from the restof Beyoglu's bustling nightlife scene. There are always long queues snaking their way around thecorner, waiting to get in at weekends. Once inside, you will find industrial dcor and an innovative


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Siraselviler CaddesiIstanbul

hours:10p-4a Tu-Sa (Oct-mid July)

music program. The place often features live concerts by excellent local musicians and popularinternational rock and pop bands. The likes of Ben Harper, John Zorn, TransGlobal Underground,and Zydeco Twisters have all performed here in the past. It's also one of the venues for the city'sJazz Festival. The highlight of the week is Wednesday night, when thr resident DJ rocks the house. wcities.com

contact:tel: 90 212 263 4898fax: 90 212 2632195http://www.etilersamdan.com/

location:Nispetiye Caddesi No:30Istanbul

A Samdan

OUR LOCAL EXPERT SAYS:Do make reservations and avoid showing up announced. The door tends todistinguish between the regular clientele and show ups rather too distinctively.

DESCRIPTION: Samdan, which is more appropriately known as Etiler Samdan, was established forthe first time in 1975. That was when neither the shopping mall Akmerkez nor the gigantic Fridays,across from Samdan's current address, existed in the popular town of Etiler -within the vicinity ofLevent. Samdan was not always a nightclub. Initially the upper floor of the two floored building wasdesigned in a rustic style and was established as an elitist fine dining place. One day, one of thecustomers (Abdi Ipekci, whose name now ascribes one of the most popular shopping streets in

Istanbul) demands that a certain song be played louder. Louder the song is played as the gueststart to rise from their tables and dance. One step at a time, Samdan assumed its place in the nightscene -a place that is more than often associated with high quality, good service and elitism.


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Istanbul Snapshot

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Local Info

Istanbul is such a diverse city that it'salmost impossible to split it up intodefinable districts. The only real distinctionthat can be made is between the Europeanand Asian sides, which are separated

by the Bosphorus Strait. Stretching fromthe Black Sea, straddling across theBosphorus, touching the Sea of Marmara,Istanbul, with an estimated population ofbetween 10-13 million, has become a city ofunlimited scope.

Sultanahmet

Most people who come to Istanbul land feetfirst in Sultanahmet. This peninsula(knownas Sarayburnu) juts out into the Bosphorus,the Golden Horn and the Sea of Marmara.Rich in history, it's a natural magnetto millions of tourists every year. The

home of Topkap Saray(Topkap Palace,Ayasofya(Hagia Sophia), the BlueMosque(Sultan Ahmet Mosque), YerebatanSaray(Yerebatan Basilica Cistern), andtheAt Meydan(Hippodrome), Sultanahmetis filled to the brim with hotels, restaurants,cafes, bars, rug stores and cheesy souvenirshops, as well as a plethora of fascinatingmuseums, mosques, markets and historicalsites. The main drag, Divan Yolu, is theheartbeat of the area, and there arehundreds of tiny back streets and alleywaysto explore the history of the old city. Thelabyrinthine Kapalar(Grand Bazaar/

Covered Bazaar) near Istanbul Universityis also on this street. Sultanahmet can bea little intimidating as it is truly catered toonly tourists.(Read: you'll have to learnquickly not to respond to"Hey! Are youAmerican/ English/ German/ Spanish/Italian/ French?") One impressive thingabout Sultanahmet is that the businessmeneach seem to speak every major Europeanlanguage, so if your Turkish isn't up to par,don't fret. Also keep in mind that bargainingwith street vendors or the Kapali Carsi folkis always in order.

Eminn

Eminn is a very historical district,which as a result of its secluded locationwithin the peninsula, led to the foundationof Byzantium on this land. The city ofByzantium expanded in all directionsfrom here, leading to the formation of theoldest neighborhoods of Istanbul alongthe Golden Horn. Situated right on the

waterfront on the Golden Horn, Eminnis a tourist hub, as well as local folks'commercial district, which can easily beaccessed with the tram that runs fromKabata to Zeytinburnu or with vesselsthat provide public transportation betweenthe two continents of Istanbul. Eminnis generally buzzing with activity duringthe day, with street peddlers selling youthings you never even knew you wantedor things you never knew existed. The vastMsr ar(Egyptian Spice Bazaar) is themain feature of Eminn Square andMimarSinan's Yeni Camii(New Mosque) isa familiar landmark with its minaretsstanding tall above the general chaos.Inside the Spice Bazaar is a well knownand cherished old Turkish restaurant,thePandeli, which has been visited by greatmen and women of all times-includingAudrey Hepburn and Queen Elizabet

the Second in 1971. Ferries to the Asianside and thePrinces Islands leave fromthe huge docks lining the shore, whereyou can stop by and have a fresh fishsandwich(balkekmek, a.k.a"fish& chips")while you wait for your vessel. The SirkeciTrain Station is also here: all trains to andfrom Europe, as well as the famous OrientExpress, begin and end their journeys here.

Beyolu/ Taksim

A veritable symphony of occident andorient, Beyolu is the pulsating heartbeatof Istanbul's day and nightlife. stiklal

Caddesi-- a paved thoroughfare perpetuallyswarming with Istanbul's colorful hoi polloi--is at the hub of the metropolis while amaze of narrow winding lanes filled withfunky cafs, soulful bars, continentalrestaurants, historic cinemas, prominenttheaters and exclusive shops shoot off inall directions around it. Taksim Square,featuring the impressive Monument of theRepublic, leads the way into Beyolu'sbohemian open-air museum, past theGreek Orthodox Aya Triada Church and theFrench Consulate. A quaint old tramwaycarries passengers past the Rumeli Han,

iek Pasaj, Cite de Pera, Atlas Pasaj,Galatasaray Lisesi, and several elegantconsulates. Every year the InternationalIstanbul Film Festival, International IstanbulMusic Festival, International IstanbulTheatre Festival and the InternationalIstanbul Jazz Festival are held here andin nearby districts. Beyolu, which hasbeen the traditional home of Istanbul's gay

community, hosts various other annualevents, including the Bosphorus Festival,Roxy Music Days, Aksanat Jazz Festivaland the Blues Festival.

Tnel/ Beyolu

The Tnel or the Tunnel District, is notfar from its mainland Beyolu, but can beconsidered as a separate district given itsexquisite and original character, soul andatmosphere. The Tnel is undoubtedlyIstanbul's"Bohemian Quarter," which notso long ago was perceived as a bad partof town, with its dark deserted streets andcreepy abandoned buildings. However,the area has undergone tremendousdevelopment in recent years. Tiny cafes,live music venues, and open-air restaurantsand bars now quietly coexist with artgalleries, antique bookshops and musicstores, as well as many designers'

boutiques and design hotels. A narrowside lane, Asmali Mescit Street, has nowbecome the representative and popularbar scene face of the district. For manyin the city, this street is the only pulsatingcenter on any given Friday and Saturdaynight. With a variety of open-air bars, suchasOtto, Groove, House Cafe and Lokal,people tend to hang around on the streetwith their coats and drinks. As such, it hasalso become impossible to walk casuallythrough this bar street lately.

Karaky

Around the first century BC, there was atiny village situated on the mini peninsulaof the Golden Horn where the modernsuburb of Karaky stands today. Thesedays, Karaky is a bustling port with a livelyfish market, a hectic ferry terminal and ashady nightlife; an intriguing landscape atthe mouth of the Golden Horn. Scores oflocals fish from the Galata Bridge and anarray of vendors peddle all kinds of goodsalong the sidewalks. A vast undergroundmarketplace where you can buy electricalappliances and guns, among other things,provides not-so-safe passage under the

busy road to the entrance of Tnel. Upthe hill is Bankalar Caddesi, an historicalarea filled with banks, art galleries and do-it-yourself stores. All visiting internationalcruise ships dock in Karaky.

Galata

The Genoese-builtGalata Tower is themost central point here. With its conical-


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capped tower head, the Tower dominatesboth the skyline and the entrance to theGolden Horn from the Bosphorus. Therenowned Turkish filmIstanbul Beneath MyWings tells the story of Hazarfen elebi,who flew from this tower with a home-madepair of wings. The main street, Galip DedeCaddesi, is a hub of activity with shops

selling musical instruments and antiquebooks, and you'll also find a good doseof tiny local restaurants, most of whichwon't be serving alcohol and will closed forthe night-nevertheless a must try for theirexpertise in cooking and the taste of localfood. The Whirling Dervishes have a homehere at the Galata Mevlevihanesi(DervishLodge); the Goethe Institute provides localswith a good dose of culture and art; andthere are countless mosques, churches andsynagogues hidden away in obscure sidestreets.

Golden Horn

Golden Horn is a historic inlet of theBosphorus and a superb natural harborthat has sheltered many Greek, Byzantine,Roman and Ottoman ships for thousandsof years(Wikipedia). The most interestingpart of the Golden Horn district comprisesof the stretch of land between Eminn andAyvansaray-towards the southern shores ofthe Horn, up as far as Eyp. The SelimiyeMosque, the Fethiye Mosque, SepetilerKasr(the Kiosk of of Basket Weavers,now the International Press Center) andSt. Steven's Church grace the shoreline

while theKariye Mzesi(Chora Church) andMihrimah Mosque are further inland. Theold city walls start at Ayvansaray and snakeoverland to Yedikap. During the Byzantineera, the mouth of the Horn was closed bya great chain during times of siege andthreat. The great chain would extend fromSarayburnu to the Castle of Galata(whichwould be in Karaky in modern times).Mehmet the Second, who conquered thecity in 1453, managed to bypass this chainby using wheeled platforms hauled byoxens to pull his ships over the heightsof Galata into the Horn and thus over the

chain.Beikta and Ortaky

Beikta is at the center of the three-wayfork that leads up the hill to Levent. It isalso the first stop for public ferries going upthe Bosphorus. The name means"cradle-stone" which stands for the stone broughtfrom Jerusalem by the monk Yashka to

honor his church. The Greek counterpart forthe name of the village was Diplokion(TwoColumns). It may have been either ofthese two name and stories that may haveinspired the Turkish to call Beikta by thisname. There are several places of interestin and around Beikta that can be linkedto Ottoman fleets and admirals. The major

ones include the trbe(tomb) of HayrettinPaa, the trbe of Barbarossa, Sinan PaaMosque and the Naval Museum. To theinland, Beikta houses a little pretty palacecalled Ihlamur Kasr or the Linden Pavilionwithin the beautiful Ihlamur Park. Thispalace is where the grandiose era of thetulips were once lived. Continuing up alongthe Bosphorus coast is yet another palace,theraan Palace, now a hotel; and afew hundred meters away from raanPalace is the Yldz Saray(Palace of theStar) and the Yldz Park. Ortaky, on theother hand, is a bustling suburb of Beikta

on the waterfront. Bubbling over with cafs,bars, restaurants and tea houses, this areais a popular weekend hangout for locals.Ortaky's back streets are buzzing withhandicraft stalls filled with trinkets andsouvenirs on summer weekends. This partof town is renowned for its mosque, churchand synagogue within close quarters ofone another. The Bosphorus Bridge spansthe waterway overhead. Ortaky has alsorecently opened itself for the night life ofIstanbul. The locals' pick for a night out,theAnjelique Club sits here next to theworld knownZuma Restaurant andRadisson

Hotel.Bosphorus: Arnavutky to Saryer

TheBosphorus shore on the Europeanside is lined with Ottoman-style mansions,high society hangouts and fish restaurants.There is only one main road and it followsthe shoreline all the way to Zekariyeky,a suburban residential area, which isno longer very far away from the cityitself. It could well be said that the shoreline starts off from where the GoldenHorn ends in Karaky, but there is adistinguishable change of air once one

arrives to Arnavutky and continues alongthe shore line in the direction of Yeniky,Tarabya and Saryer. For this reason,when the Turkish people think of EuropeanBosphorus or going by the Bosphorus, theyusually indicate somewhere along the coastof Arnavutky andSaryer. The coastlinehere is paved for pedestrians to go joggingor for walking. Recently the municipality

has also introduced somewhat primitivesports equipment and facilities for the publibenefit. It is very possible to find peoplewalking and working out along the coastearly on a sunny day.

Sea of Marmara Coast: Kumkap to

Yedikule

Kumkap is a distinctly touristy area filledwith over-priced fish restaurants and notmuch else besides views of the sea. Untilrecently, it was mostly reserved to theArmenian community. There are still severaof their churches and community schoolsin this region. The coast road heads outtoward the airport past the old city wallsand Yedikule Fortress. Yedikule translatesitself as"Seven Walls" into English and doeindicate the fortress that once surroundedand protected the city since the Byzantiumera.

Asian Side& Bosphorus: Kadky to

Anadolu Feneri

Kadky is a quieter version of Beyoluwith a more subdued atmosphere. Italso resemble Beikta in terms of itscommercial activity and daily hectic andbusy life. The tiny cobbled lanes are filledwith restaurants, cafs, bars, cinemas andshops, but most importantly, residents! TheAsian side of town is where most of thelocal population lives; you'll have a hardertime with no Turkish language skills here,but it's worth it to pop over on the ferry andexperience a more relaxed way of life. The

coast road snakes past skdar, a prettysuburb with plenty of fine examples ofMimar Sinan's work, including the MihrimahSultan and emsi Paa Mosques. SelimiyeBarracks(where Florence Nightingaleworked during the Crimean War) is up onthe hill. Heading toward Anadolu Hisar,the road winds along the shoreline(whichis less built up than that of the Europeanside). There are plenty of parks and trees,outdoor cafs and restaurants and a stringof historical buildings to explore includingBeylerbeyi Palace, Kuleli Mosque, KuleliNaval Officer's Training School, Kksu

Park& Kiosk and Anadolu Hisar. Thepart of the shore from Kanlca to Kuleli isstreamlined with mansion like, luxury villasand neighborhoods on the hills.

Princes Islands

Princes Islands are an archipelago ofsix islands, where Istanbulites used toreside during the summers in the old times


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There are especially four islands in theSea of Marmara that still attract crowdsescaping the summer heat: Bykada,Heybeliada, Knalada and Burgazada.Ferries leave from Sirkeci, Kadky andBostanc regularly in the summer duringday and night to and fro the islands. Also,in summers, there are faster ferries leaving

from Kabata for the islands. There areno cars on the islands and the transporthere is limited to horse-drawn carriages.Each island has plenty of unique offers forleisure, sports and entertainment. There arealso plenty of places to eat and sleep. Atopthe hills of Bykada and Heybeliada areGreek monasteries with magnificent viewsof the sea and the neighboring islands.

Harbiye-Nianta-ili-Mecidiyeky-

Levent

All of these districts are mostly businessand financial centers of the city with a

few residential skyscrapers, which socialelites habituate in. The Military Museumin Harbiye is a good landmark from whichto begin exploring Istanbul's business life.Harbiye is also filled with offices of manysmall and medium enterprises, most ofwhich are dentists or tourism offices. Notfar away from Harbiye isNianta, which isthe central shopping district-the so called5th avenue of city. ili is strictly a businessdistrict that goes all the way toLeventand beyond toMaslak, both of which arestrictly dominated with office buildings,shopping malls and banks. There is now

an underground metro linking Taksim withMaslak.

NileGuide

History

Depending on the background of itsrulers, the city has been called by differentnames over the centuries. Byzantium,Constantinople and Stamboul are amongthe most commonly used and knownnames. In 1930, the city finally received itsofficial name Istanbul, which is also how it iscalled today.

Byzantium

A settlement on Sarayburnu wasestablished around 655 BC. The legendhas it that it was founded by a Byzas fromMegara, who stumbled upon this pieceof land while he was sailing northeast onthe Aegean Sea. Triangular in shape, withwater on two sides, the land was a ready-

made fortress. To the north, this peninsulalater to be named the"Golden Horn"(Haliin Turkish) formed a natural deep-waterharbor. The site offered easy access tothe Mediterranean, Africa and the BlackSea, and lay at the crossroads of mainlandtransit routes crossing Europe and Asia.The small colony's name and founding

was attributed to this sailor by the name ofByzas, hence the name Byzantium.

The Persians eagerly took control of the cityin 550 BC, followed by the Spartans, thenthe Athenians. The Byzantines developeda series of shrewd alliances and were ableto keep their predatory neighbors at bay.King Philip of Macedon tested the walls andwill of Byzantium for an entire year from340-341 BC.

In 196 AD, the Byzantines backed thewrong side in the imperial Roman powerstruggle. After a prolonged siege, Septimius

Severus had Byzantium's walls torn down,the city put to the torch, and much of thepopulation put to death. He then rebuilt thecity on a grander scale with new temples,a colonnaded avenue, and bigger, betterwalls enclosing an area almost twice thesize of the previous city. However, nothingof Severus' city remains today.

Early in the first century AD, the RomanEmpire became too unwieldy to governfrom Rome, and was thus subdivided,one section's capital being Byzantium.Power struggles among the new governorsof the territories of the Roman Empireled to Byzantium becoming a perpetualbattleground. In AD 324, Constantine,governor of Byzantium, defeated hiscounterpart Licinius and set about changingthe course of history. He promotedChristianity and shifted the capitalfrom Rome to Byzantium. In AD 330,Constantine inaugurated his new seat ofpower asNova Roma.

Constantinople

Constantine soon renamed NovaRomaConstantinople and the new emperorwas keen on development. He was

aware that changing the capital of thecity in a sudden whim would have beencostly for his imperial power, and thushe followed a gradual route. The shiftand rebuilding of the city took more thansix years, and the planning of the newcapital was made distinctively differentfrom its old counterpart, Rome. Forinstance, the new capital did not have

all the dignities of Rome and the cityhad a proconsul rather than an urbanprefect. As part of the reconstruction ofthe city, Constantine commissioned thechurch ofHaghia Eirene(the first Christiancathedral) and rebuilt the city walls. Thecenter square, which Constantine namedAugustaeum, known as the Aya Sofya

square in modern time-also where theHagiaSophia Mosque now stands, was alsoset out in this period. On the south of thisgreat square, Constantine built his GreatPalace(Byk Saray) and nearby he laidout theHippodrome for chariot races. Theseare some of the greatest and most historicalandmarks that still remain to this day andthey constitute only a very small part ofConstantine's work. Despite little evidenceof Constantine's great works, it is for surethat he laid the foundations for an empirethat was to endure for over 1,000 years.

The beginning of the Empire were notauspicious. On Constantine's death in 337AD, achievement and stability ended. Hissons quarreled over the succession, andthe Byzantine Empire was divided intoeastern and western segments.

Theodosius II(408-450), an Eastern RomanEmperor, reinforced the city walls anderected the massiveEgyptian Obelisk,pilfered during a campaign in Luxor.Constantinople began to move towards anew era of greatness, reaching its apexduring the era of Justinian(527-565), an eraof great successes in war, legal reforms

and public developments.Justinian's reign was indeed marked bygreat confidence, and the empire expandedto include most of the Mediterranean coastincluding Italy. He embarked on a programof reconstruction, building more than 40churches and immense water cisternslike Yerebatan Saray. The crowning glorywas a new cathedral, Santa Sophia. Also,during Justinian's reign, theHippodromeadopted an increasing political significanceAs a resemblance of the old traditionsof Rome, the Hippodrome became aplace where people gathered to show by

acclamation their approval of disapprovalof the new emperor when he was crowned.These gatherings coupled with a varietyof parties and riots before chariot races;and became a serious political tension.During one of the riots, known as the riotof'Nika', Constantine's basilica St. Sophia,which lay to the north of Augustaeum wasconsumed totally. Justinian commissioned


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a new St. Sophia to be built. This timethe church would be directly connectedto the palace, so that the imperial familywould not have to cross through the streetsto attend ceremonies and services. Thededication of this new Orthodox Cathedraltook place on 26th of December, 537.Justinian also replaced the Church of

Holy Apostles built by Constantine witha new church made of five domes andbeautiful mosaic ornaments. This churchwas demolished after the conquest of thecity by the Ottoman Sultan Mehmet II tomake room for his tomb.

Between 565 and 717, the city could onlystrive for survival. It was threatened bothfrom the northwest and the south, from theBalkans and from the Persians. The religionof Islam also seized power in those yearsand conquered the eastern provinces of theEmpire. This was followed by a centurieslong Byzantine-Arab wars, during which thecity had to endure several sieges. The wallsof the city were fortified in the 730s by LeoIII.

Byzantine fortunes were restored during thereign of Basil II(976-1025), who expandedthe empire into Armenia and Georgia.Basil's most significant contribution tohistory came in 989 AD when his daughterAnna married Vladimir(Prince of Kiev), andthe pagan prince converted to OrthodoxChristianity.

At the hands of the Ducas and Comnenifamilies, Constantinople became themost decadent city in the world, filled withintermarriage, intrigue, dethronings andmurder. The empire now relied on wealthand diplomacy as opposed to military force.With the Seljuk Turks as the greater threat,Byzantium was forced to enlist the aid ofLatin armies. The Seljuk Turks continuedto expel more threat on the Empire byforming small states along the borders ofConstantinople. Soon, the stronger stateoverwhelmed all the smaller ones andrenamed itself as the State of Osman, afterits chief officer and founder Osman Bey.

State of Osman soon became bigger tobecome the Ottoman Empire and by 1394Constantinople had become a Byzantineisland in an Ottoman sea. The city wasconfronted by the Turkish army at its wallsmany times before Mehmet II conquered itin 1453. Soon after becoming the Ottomansultan in 1452, Mehmet II constructed thefortress of Rumeli Hisar on the European

shore of the Bosphorus just north of thecity. The fortress was constructed in orderto siege the city when the appropriate timecame.

Istanbul

The conquest of the city in 1453,established the Ottomans as a preeminent

Empire in Southeastern Europe andthe Mediterranean. After this incident,the Empire entered a period of greatexpansion, expanding its borders deep intoEurope and North Africa.

Inside the city, Mehmet the Conquerorencouraged craftsmen and artisans fromBursa and Edirne to move to his new cityand build Topkap Palace. Soon the newcapital was well-endowed with mosques,hamams and the beginnings of what woulddevelop into the Grand Bazaar.

After Mehmet's death in 1481, his elder son

Beyazt II won succession. Beyazt's sonSelim(known as"Selim the Grim" for hishabit of having his grand viziers executed)succeeded him. During Selim's eight-yearreign he presided over significant militaryvictories, adding Syria and Egypt to theimperial portfolio. He quelled a Portuguesethreat to Mecca and was rewarded withthe keys to the Holy City, the sacred relicsof the Prophet, and the title of Caliph,or"Champion of Islam."

Sleyman the Magnificent(1520-66) ruledan empire that covered the spread ofNorth Africa, stretched east to India, androlled from the Caucasus through Anatoliaand the Balkans, to Budapest and mostof modern-day Hungary. Modern historytells that this era was the apex of anOttoman era of glamor and wealth. Underboth Selim and Sleyman's reign, theEmpire became a dominant naval powerin the Mediterranean Sea. The successfulOttoman Admiral Barbarossa HayreddinPasha became famous in these times.

Istanbul became synonymous withgrandeur under Sleyman. He marriedRoxelana and commissioned a promising

young architect, Mimar Sinan, to constructthe Haseki Hrrem Mosque complex asa birthday present. This was Sinan's firstmajor commission in Istanbul, launching aglorious career which spanned 50 years,during which time left his indelible mark onthe city and indeed on most major cities ofthe Ottoman Empire.

Sleyman was succeeded by Selim,beginning an era that saw weak sultansmanipulated by their wives and mothersbetween whom there were often violentstruggles for power.

In 1683 the Ottomans failed to recaptureVienna. This marked the beginning of a

series of backward steps for the Ottomans.The Janissaries(once the sultan's finesttroops) were out of control, threatening thesultan and killing ministers, and plagueswere recurrent.

When Selim III took the throne in 1789 hehad a lot on his plate: disobedient guards,ongoing and long-lasting outbreaks ofdisease, economic decline, military defeatsmoribund culture and a restless populace.The Janissaries were finally crushedin 1826 by Sultan Mahmut II(1808-39).He implemented much-needed reformsand local government was introduced toIstanbul for the first time, together withthe city's first police and fire services.Quarantine and plague hospitals were alsoestablished.

Abdlmecit(1839-61) continued hisfather's reform programs, namelythe"Tanzimat"(Reorganization) reforms,resulting in what was to be a lastblossoming of the Ottoman Empire.The sultan embraced this new era bymoving out of Topkap Palace into theimperial palace at Dolmabahe. TheTanzimat reforms meant to start the

effective modernization of Turkey in 1839by imposing religious equality, liberty andsecurity for all of the Sultan's citizens.Unfortunately, the reforms were notsufficient enough by themselves to haltthe various nationalistic surges aroundthe Empire, especially in the Balkan area.Beginning with Serbian and DanubianPrincipalities, Wallachia and Moldavia alldeclared their unilateral independence.They were followed by Bulgaria's virtualindependence, following the Russian-Ottoman War of 1877-78. In the sameyear, Cyprus was rented to the British in

exchange for a record of favors that theBritish granted to the Ottoman Empire inthe Congress of Berlin. The British alsooccupied the Ottoman territory Egypt in1882 under the pretext of bringing in order;and officially annexed both Egypt andCyprus in 1914 during the course of WorldWar I.


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In the interim, Armenians, who had beengranted their own constitution and nationalassembly during the Tanzimat reforms,started to press for more rights andcharges following the Russian-OttomanWar of 1877-78-and in tandem with thegeneral nationalistic movement of that

era. A number of Armenian uprisings andnationalistic movements took place in thefollowing years in various cities of Anatolia.Increasing tension and instability causedthe Ottoman governors to react in not-so-humanized ways. Between 1894-96100,000 to 300,000 people were killed inwhat is known as the Hamidian Massacre.

In 1908, the Second Constitutional Erastarted, which is marked by the worksof Young Turks and the politics of theCommittee of Union and Progress. Thisera is also called as the Era of Dissolution,in which the Empire continued to lose

more land, including Libya and more of theBalkans as far as its historic capital Edirne.

The Ottomans entered the First World Warthrough the incident known as"Goebenand Breslau", when they provided refugefor two German ships that were fleeing theBritish fleet. Through the course of WWI,the Empire consistently lost more land.The partitioning of the Ottoman Empire,referred to as the"sick, old man" by theBritish, became solidified by the Treaty ofSevres in 1920.

Atatrk

Beyond debate is Atatrk's status as oneof the most influential political figures of the20th century and a military commander ofunrivaled genius. A true reformist, Atatrkchanged the face of the country. Electedin 1923 as the Republic of Turkey's firstpresident, he installed a modified Latinalphabet to replace the Arabic scriptTurkish previously employed, and he evenmoved the capital from Istanbul to Ankara.Atatrk's new Turkish constitution did awaywith Islamic law, and instead imposedsecular laws largely based on the Italian

justice system. After his death in 1938,

chaos ruled. Democracy was reinstatedin the 1960s but there was still no realconsensus on which direction to take: East,West or Soviet-style? In 1980, there wasa huge army takeover. A wave of terrorensued, resulting in over 100,000 arrests,and this dark period in Turkey's history hasbecome the subject of a great number ofTurkish books and films over the years.

Atatrk's popularity is still at anunbelievable high in Turkey-- there arestatues of him on nearly every block ofthe city, and his representations of hislikeness abound in public buildings andprivate homes alike. His face is alsoimprinted on every denomination of Turkish

lira-- bills and coins. Though his faceitself may seem to be the most lastingimpression he has left on Turkey, in factit is his secular policies and laws that arestill being studied and fought over today.There is an ongoing and significant strugglebetween secular and non-secular factionsin Turkey. Indecisive elections in 1995resulted in an unpopular center-right Islamiccoalition. Fueled by decades of hatred forthe country's secular institutions, they setabout destroying everything they couldn'tcontrol, bringing the economy to the brinkof collapse. In the interest of avoidinganother army coup, a more stable multi-party coalition was formed.

The Future

A long-awaited metro system, promisingrelief from traffic congestion, is up andrunning. Istanbul's yearly GDP recentlysurpassed those of other major world citiessuch as Berlin, Delhi, Singapore, Vienna,Munich, Stockholm, Cairo, Bangkok andJohannesburg, among others. The moodin Istanbul at the moment is one of muchoptimism and hope. NileGuide

Hotel Insights

Whether you feel like staying in an Ottomanpalace, a family home, a restored mansion,a traditional wooden house, a convertedprison or a youth hostel, you will certainlyfind all of the above in Istanbul. Followinga recent boom in tourism, Istanbul's hotelsand guesthouses now cater to every tasteas well as all budgets. There are manyhotels catering to tourists clustered aroundthe Sultanahmet area; but business peopletend to prefer the more centrally-locatedTaksim, or the commercial district of Leventand Maslak, or they stick to hotels aroundAtatrk Airport. There are hundreds ofhotels hroughout the city, ranging from thelowliest budget hostels offering the merebasics to luxury five-star hotels with superbfacilities.

Breakfast and 18% KDV(value-added tax)are often included in the price of a room but

it's always wise to check. Tipping hotel stafis very common-- a few lira in the hands ofthe help ensures high quality service.

Sultanahmet

Sultanahmet is overwhelming and tootouristy in parts, but in other parts, itoverflows with history and charm. The

Four Seasons Hotel(located in an oldprison) is the top choice in the area--everyone knows this hotel, which isrenowned for its service, facilities andoverwhelming restaurant. Yeil Ev is arestored Ottoman mansion with a lushgarden and oodles of charm. The EmpressZoe offers its guests spectacular views ofthe Bosphorus from the rooftop terraceand a 15th-century Turkish bath is locatedin the basement. The family-run KybeleHotel exudes eclectic eccentricity, withthousands of colored-glass lamps hangingfrom the ceiling. The 4 StarHotel Armada

is within walking distance of many majorattractions: the Archaeology Museum, theTopkapi Palace, the Church of St. Irene,Sultanahmet Square, the Cisterns, theMuseum of Turkish and Islamic Art, theGrand Bazaar and the Spice Bazaar. TheHotel Valide Sultan Konagi offers modernfacilities, Ottoman-style, while the AyasofyaPansiyonlari are a string of replica Ottomanmansions lining a quaint cobbled street.The Hotel St Sophia is opposite YerebatanSaray(Yerebatan Basilica Cistern), behindAyasofya(Hagia Sophia), in the heart ofthe old city. The Turkoman Hotel overlooks

the At Meydan(Hippodrome) and theBlue Mosque(Sultan Ahmet Mosque). Thecentrally-located Side Hotel& Pensionis popular with low-budget travelers andbackpackers.

Eminn

Eminn, at the mouth of the Golden Horn,is a bustling market area. Most hotels hereare conveniently located near the SirkeciTrain Station. The Hotel Yasmak Sultan isa short walk from Sultanahmet Square, theGrand Bazaar and the Galata Bridge. TheOrient Express Hotel offers an alternative

location near the old city, with excellentviews of the Golden Horn. The RomanceHotel is a newer addition to the gaggle ofhotels with excellent modern facilities.

Beyolu

Istanbul's center for culture and arts,Beyolu has become a busy hub forbusiness people and tourists alike. Here,


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you'll find the Hilton, the Inter ContinentalCeylan, theHyatt Regency(with its beautifulswimming pool) and one of the mostfamous hotels in Istanbul,the MarmaraIstanbul that boasts an impressive gymwith incredible views of the city and itspeople going on about their daily routines,as well as a variety of live pick pocket

scenes. The Marmara Pera hosts thehigh quality, elegant and very deliciouscuisine of theMikla Restaurant, as well asan incredible round view of the city and theBosphorus. TheHotel Euro Plaza(locatednear the British Consulate) designedtheir modern rooms with business peoplein mind. The Hotel Yenisehir Palas is

just a short walk away from a string ofrestaurants, cafs, bars and nightlife. TheDilson Hotel-- with dedicated staff andmodern facilities-- is just a few steps awayfrom the metro and all public transport. Thecharming design hotel 4 Floors Istanbul

is a feel-like-at-home apartment suitecomplex, situated in one of the upcoming,trendy neighborhoods, near Kuledibi andKumbarac Yokuu.

Tnel

This developing Bohemian quarter playshost to artists and intellectuals. TheAmerican Consulate is also in this area.Travelers from the Orient Express stayedat thePera Palas Hotel, which once playedhost to both Atatrk and Agatha Christie.The elegant Richmond Hotel is superblylocated on the main street and there is

a wonderful caf(Cafe Lebon) at streetlevel. It is also home to a well-known(yetoverpriced) restaurant called Leb-i Derya.The four-star Mercure Hotel stands overthe Tyap Exhibition Centre(incidentally,probably the ugliest building in the city)nearby.

Golden Horn-Marmara Sea Coast

This is a sprawling suburban district spreadout along the shore roads of each waterwayand surrounding the old city walls. Out ofthe center, it's the preferred location forbusiness people and tourists with time on

their hands. Located in Topkap-- betweenthe old city and the airport-- the BarcelEresin Topkap Hotel is a favorite withbusiness people. The Citadel offers guestsmagnificent views of the Marmara Sea,near the fish restaurants of Kumkap. TheKariye Hotel in Edirnekapi is a restored19th-century Ottoman mansion and the

Asithane downstairs serves very fineOttoman cuisine.

Beikta-Ortaky

An area of combined business andpleasure, Beikta is laid out on a hill whileOrtaky spreads itself along the shores ofthe Bosphorus and plays host to thousands

of day-trippers and weekenders in the warmseasons. The most notable hotel in thearea is the elegant raan Saray(raanPalace)-- the luxurious home of theOttoman sultans-- with its spectacularoutdoor pool. TheConrad Hotel, also witha quite luxurious pool is perfectly situatedfor business meetings and conferencesand the Swisstel atop the hill combinesglorious views of the Bosphorus and thecity with top-quality services and facilities.Radisson Blu Bosphorus by the coast ofOrtaky offers a combined experienceof the nightlife of Istanbul and relaxing

atmosphere of Bosphorus.Airport Area

For a quick getaway or those tediousmiddle-of-the-night flights, there are severalexcellent hotels situated near AtatrkInternational Airport(Atatrk Havalman).Five minutes from the airport is the five-star Polat Renaissance Istanbul Hotel withits ultra-modern dcor and views of theMarmara Sea. The luxurious Radisson andCinar hotels are also in the same area.The Ataky Tatil Ky is situated on thecoastal road near the Ataky train station

and caters to campers and caravans.Asian Side and Bosphorus

The Asian side of Istanbul has a less manicatmosphere than the European side. Whiletourists prefer to stay in the historical areas,business people prefer convenience-- muchof Istanbul's business happens over here.The Harem Hotel overlooks the Bosphorusand caters to young families with its reliablechildcare services. The Bosphorus Pashain Beylerbeyi is similar to an English statelyhome while the Kent is a small, budgethotel located a short walk from the heart of

the cobbled streets of Kadky and the ferryterminals. The Asian side also has plentyto offer for those seeking less business andmore romantic oriented getaways.Sumahanis a boutique hotel in engelky, that hasbeen renovated from an old alcohol factoryby its architect owners. Situated right nextto the coast, the ancient establishment-now a service oriented, friendly hotel- has a

lot to offer in terms of the sea, the sun, thefood and peace. Not far from Sumahan isanother boutique hotel called Aija. Ownedand managed by the Doors EntertainmentGroup, which also manages several othertrendy and cool cafes, bars and loungesin Istanbul, Aija is an old mansion that isplaced literally on the sea and boasts a

magnificent view of the Bosphorus.Bebek

The small town of Bebek does not have alot to offer in terms of lodging, but it doesin terms of lifestyle and trends. The oneand only hotel in Bebek, the Bebek Hotel,is therefore a must-mention for anyonewishing to enjoy the night scene, barscene, cafe scene of the city in the way thaIstanbullites do.

Princes Islands

Set in the Marmara Sea, the islands

attract citysiders escaping metropolitanmadness at weekends. During the week,things are much quieter and discountedhotel rates make a mid-week cruise toparadise even more attractive. Try the MeriHalki Palace on Heybeliada for nonpareilviews of the surrounding sea and the cityin the distance. The Splendid Palace isa historical building that offers superbfacilities on the waterfront at Bykada.Aya Nikola is another boutique hotel onthe eastern side of Bykada, offering acombination of nature, forest and the sea.

NileGuide

Restaurants Insights

Dining

Turkish cuisine is a rich combination ofOttoman, Balkan, Middle Eastern andMediterranean influences and is thus wellknown for its diverse range of dishes,mostly due to regional variation. Forinstance, the entire Mediterranean coastlineis well known for their fresh fish dishes andvegetable and grass root dishes cookedwith virgin olive oil; while the southeastern

regions are famous with their kebab(meat)dishes. Inside the comfort of their kitchens,many Turks tend to be purists in theirculinary taste: each dish is meant tohighlight the flavor of the main ingredient,so you won't find your food smothered insauces and spices. Herbs and spices areused sparingly and singularly: either mintor dill goes with zucchini, parsley goes with


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eggplant and garlic has its place in coldvegetable dishes. However, that shouldnot be taken as a rule of thumb, as thereare a variety of other Turkish dishes, thatare cooked with heavy spices and oil andserved with thick sauces.

Istanbul has become a melting pot of both

local and international cuisines in recentyears. In an effort to broaden culinaryhorizons, more and more western-stylecafs, bars and continental restaurantsare popping up all the time. TraditionalTurkish fare is still by far the most popularand there are countless restaurantswhere you can sample local delights. Theprimary aspect of the local eating sceneof the Turkish people is their tendencyto eat slowly over a long period of time.Themeyhane(traditional tavern) experienceis an epitome of long and cheerful eatingand is thus a must for any visitor-- thereare plenty of these to be found all over thecity. For a traditional Turkish buffet-stylerestaurant experience, visitors should askaround for the locallokanta. Vegetariansare also reasonably well catered to by ahandful of restaurants-- just say you wantyour foodetsiz ve balksz, ltfen(withoutmeat and fish, please).

Fish

The Turks are very proud of their localseafood and rarely import any. Fishis traditionally eaten atmeyhanesaccompanied bymeze(small appetizers andfinger foods) and the local aniseed-flavoredalcoholic beverage,rak, which is similarto Greekouzo, but more pleasing to thepalate. When Turks go to a fish restaurantor ameyhane, the occasion usually lastsfor hours. Normal 0 0 1 152 872 7 1 107011.1282 0 14 0 0If the gathering occursfor dinner, the evening usually startsaround 7-7.30 P.M. with the early comers.They order theirrak with a slice of whitecheese and melon. This trio keeps thetable going for at least half an hour until therest of the diners arrive. Around 8.15 P.M.the cold appetizers' tray arrives and thediners cherry-pick the starters. The most

popular cold starters include: the auberginesalad(made from mashing aubergine andmixing that with various grasses and grassroots), octopus salad with virgin olive oil,mashed peppers(could be hot), stuffedshell fish andfava(fave in Italian, madefrom mashed broad beans). After thecold appetizers, between 8.45 and 9.00P.M. the hot dishes will get ordered. The

most favorite hot dishes include:karidesgve(shrimps stewed with rich tomatosauce, pepper and cheese), grilled or friedcalamari, fried shelled fish and sometimesTurkish pastry(paanga brei).

Most of the popularmeyhanes are locatedin and around Nevizade Street: Sanat,Gideros, Ney'le Ney'le, Boncuk, Imroz,Saki and Degstasyon. Kumkap is full ofoverpricedmeyhanes catering to tourists,so avoid them. Apart from themeyhanes,there are also some very good fishrestaurants. Try the little-knownBalkSabahattin in Sultanahmet. Along theEuropean Bosphorus shore, good picksinclude Marina Balk Restaurant on thedock in Kurueme, Rumeliskele(on theexpensive side) right by the fortress, localfavouriteAdem Baba(no alcohol service)in Arnavutky, and Del Mare, Kordon inengelky or Balk in Kkyal on theAsian side.

International

In some restaurants, it is possible to travelthe world in a meal, while others aremore specialised: Udonya serves superbJapanese, or else get unlimited Chineseat Chinese Unlimited, on the expensivefront Dragon serves high quality anddelicious Far Eastern cuisine samples,try French at theLa Brise, Caf de Parisor Cafe du Levant, Tex-Mex at DixieStation, World cuisine atSunset Grill&Bar orMikla, and Indian at Dubb IndianRestaurant& Gallery. C Fischer serves up

German fare,Mia Mensa, Rosario and DaMario goes Italian,Rejans is Russian, andbothKathisma and Changa serve a bit ofthem all.

Meat and Kebabs

The word"kebab" is synonymous withTurkey, and a vast selection of kebabsand other meat dishes can easily be foundeverywhere you go:Ali Baba in Arnavutky,for example, is a favorite local chow house.On the European side, Bursa skender andSark Sofras in the center of Beyolu andCumhuriyet skembe Salonu in the fish

market are good picks. Tarihi Selim UstaSultanahmet Kftecisi serves up a meanplate of meatballs(kfte)and Tike is famousfor tender lamb. Recently, there are also avariety of Steak Houses opening aroundthe city. Though it is a recent and rawphenomenon, the Turkish elites seemed tohave liked this new concept of raw meat.

Most frequented steak houses include:Gnaydn and Dkkan.

Ottoman

The Ottomans' contribution to world cuisineis magnanimous. A riot of colors, flavors,textures and tastes accompanies eachOttoman-style meal. Check outAsitane in

the Kariye Museum in Edirnekap,Amedrosin Sultanahmet,Haci Abdullah in Beyolu,self-serve yourself inKonyal in Sirkeci orget bewildered by the elegant decor andservice in its Kanyon branch, visitPandeli inEminn, and sample the delights of Turaat the raan Saray(raan Palace) inBeikta.

Turkish Fast Food

The term"fast food" in Istanbul often meansready-cooked wholesome Turkish food.Many restaurants display trays of preparedstews and vegetable dishes in the window.

ThePudding Shop in Sultanahmet was thefirst of these in Istanbul. Also try Altin Kupa

just around the corner. A La Turka, and BolKepce in Ortaky are popular, Darzziyafenear the Sleymaniye Mosque servesthe genuine article, and Ela and Ficcin inBeyolu have some good choices too.

Vegetarian

A new trend in Turkey, vegetarianism hashad a slow beginning but there has beensome progress. Nuh'un Ambari, Nature andPeace, Badehane, andZencefil in Beyoluare just a few of the hot spots for herbivore

on the European side. Also try Hercaiwhilst in Kadky on the Asian side. Asfor Slow Food fanatics, lunching at Kantinin Nianta with the Nianta ladies is amust.

Street Food

Europeans and Asians alike seem to loveto feast on the streets, buying delicioussnacks from vendors wheeling carts.Istanbul is no different: a midnight snackcould include stuffed mussels(midyedolma), a fried mussel sandwich, meatballsmade with barley(icli kfte), or even

raw meat(cig kfte).Gzleme(filledpancake) is a favorite lunch-time snack,along with baked potatoes filled withanything you want(kumpir), and evenplain old chicken and rice. Breakfast couldconsist ofsimit(bread rings with sesameseeds),poaca(cheese- or potato-filledpastry),atal(a cracker-like snack), ora variety of sweets dripping with syrup,


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by Kum Pan Ya, Orta Oyuncular, StdyoTheatre, Tiyatro Oyunevi, and Oyuncular.It is also possible to catch a play in theshopping mall theaters as well. ProfiloMall is a leading establishment, reservingtime slots for a variety of monologues,stand up shows, concerts and theater;and Mars Entertainment Group(owner of

Cinebonus Cinemas) has also recentlycooperated with the DOT Theater Groupand has established"Dotmarsta"-an arttheater inside G-Mall.

Art Galleries

The main street in Beyolu, stiklal Caddesi,is packed with art galleries, most displayingcontemporary works. International artistsand mixed exhibitions feature regularly.Every bank has an art gallery or culturalcenter open to the public. Some of thebetter ones are the Aksanat Art Centre,Borusan Culture& Art Centre, Platform

Garanti Contemporary Art Center, andYap Kredi Kazm. Check out Galata ArtGallery, Dulcinea and Galeri Apel(all privategalleries) in the winding backstreets. TheMaka, Tesvikiye Nianta area is also richin modern art with Gallery Baraz, GalleryNev, Kas Art Gallery, Milli Insurance ArtGallery, the Pamukbank Photo Gallery, TemArt Gallery, and the Tesvikiye Art Gallery.

Live Music

Istanbulites flock in droves to liveconcerts at open-air venues such as theCemal Toplu Open Air Amphitheatre in

Harbiye(known asHarbiye Ak Hava by thelocals), Park Orman in Maslak, and varioussporting arenas where live internationalconcerts are held. Local rock and metalbands perform live in bars like HayalKahvesi, Jazz Stop, Kemanc, and Mojo.Roxy hosts a wide variety of live music, andfor world music head to Shaman. Jazz fansmight also love Gramofon and the opulentIstanbul Jazz Center in Ortaky.Babylonalso hosts a variety of Jazz artists aroundthe year.

Ballet and Opera

Turkey has no long tradition of Westernperforming arts, and opera and balletremain the preserve of the upper classesor educated elite. The Istanbul StateOpera and Ballet Company do theirbest to provide a full program everymonth despite a severe lack of fundsand public support. Classics such asTheNutcracker Suite,Swan Lake, andCarmen

are performed regularly. You can afford tomiss them.

Classical Music

Classical music is a less common artform in Istanbul. While the InternationalIstanbul Music Festival brings togetherinternationally acclaimed musicians

and local musicians, large audiencesare still hard to come by. For a decentdose of classical culture try the AtatrkCultural Centre, Hac mer Hall, andthe Cemal Resit Rey Concert Hall whereregular performances by the IstanbulState Symphony Orchestra, AkbankChamber Orchestra, and Borusan IstanbulPhilharmonic Orchestra take place. TheAya rini is also a magical location forlocal and international classical musicperformances.

Museums

Planning to visit all the museums in Istanbulcan be a monumental task. Some ofthe best ones include the fascinatingArchaeology Museum and the intriguingRahmi Ko Industrial Museum with allits interactive displays. For history buffs,theKariye Mzesi(Chora Church), theMosaic Museum, the Calligraphy Museum,and the Museum of Turkish& Islamic Artswould be the places to start. For modernand military history try the Atatrk Museum,the Naval Museum, and the MilitaryMuseum. The old electric power plant isnow exhibited in Santral Istanbul in Eyp,

where also varied workshops regularly takeplace on weekends. The Sabanci Collectionhouses a magnificent display of Ottomanart as well as temporary exhibitions ofWorld art, and the Vakiflar Carpet Museumis perfect for rug enthusiasts!

Sightseeing

Pretty much everywhere you turn in the city,historical sites abound. It's impossible tosee all of them, but some that shouldn't bemissed are the Sultan Ahmet Camii(BlueMosque), Topkap Palace, YerebatanBasilica Cistern, and the Ayasofya(Hagia

Sophia). The Bosphorus cruise to AnadoluKavai is fabulously relaxing. raanPalace and Dolmabahe Palace are both inBeikta, as well as the Yldz Palace andPark, where you may jog, walk or picnic.Some of the most beautiful mosques aretheSleymaniye Mosque, Fatih Mosque,and the picturesque Ortaky Mosqueunder the Bosphorus Bridge. Stroll around

theAt Meydan(Hippodrome), SoukemeStreet, and Glhane, or drink wine againstthe scenery of the city on Pierre Loti Hill.Visit the great fortress of Rumeli Hisaroverlooking the Bosphorus, or shop untilyou drop in the Grand Bazaar. Kz Kulesiand Beylerbeyi Palace can be found on theAsian side.

wcities.com

Things to Do Insights

The best way to see most of Istanbul ison foot. What seems to be a somewhatformidable task is simplified by breakingeach walk down into smaller sectionsof the city. The most touristy but alsohistorical part of town is the old city,Sultanahmet,where at every turn you aregreeted with a museum or a mosque.The European and Asian sides of theBosphorus shore are rich in historical

treasures just waiting to be discovered. Theshores are also perfect for relaxing longwalks and Sunday brunches. Old Pera,or Beyolu, deserves its own separatetour. Galata, Tnel and Kuledibi areworth devoting another full day for a fullexperience of the upscale bohemianheadquarters. The Bosphorus is wellworth exploring by boat, as are the PrincesIslands. There are also several placeswhich can be visited on day trips out oftown.

Sultanahmet to Beyazt

The old city of Sultanahmet is one ofthe world's most fascinating open-airmuseums. At the edge of the park betweenthe magnificentAyasofya(Hagia Sophia)and theBlue Mosque(Sultan AhmetMosque), the Baths of Lady Hrrem(atwin hamam-turned-carpet shop) presideover the surrounding areas. inili Kk,Aya rini, andTopkap Palace(with itsharem, massive kitchens, and relics ofthe prophet) are down to the right ofAyasofya whileYerebatan Saray(YerebatanBasilica Cistern)-- an ancient Romanaqueduct-- is on the street to the left;

the upside-down head of Medusa in thiswatery museum is not to be missed. The300-year-oldCaalolu Hamam is alsodown this street. Behind Ayasofya isSoukeme Sokak-- a tiny cobbled alleylined with Ottoman-style townhouses, andthe Archaeology Museum is behind it onOsman Hamdi Yokusu. The busy ArastaBazaar and the fascinating Mosaic Museum


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side of the city that services just a fewairlines, and there are just a few flightsat a time. Keep in mind that flights fromthis airport often fly you to smaller, lesser-known airports in whatever your destinationcity may be; however, this is the airport youfly out of if you want a really cheap ticket!

Airlines servicing SAW include:Germanwings(+44 870 252 1250/ http://www1.germanwings.com)

Easyjet(http://www.easyjet.com)

Turkish Airlines(+90 212 444 0849/ http://www.thy.com)

Pegasus Airlines(+90 444 0737/ http://www.flypgs.com)

Corendon Airlines(+32 2 722 9494/ http://www.corendon.com)

Montenegro Airlines(http://

www.montenegro-airlines.cg.yu)Blue Wings(+49 2 11 42 16 8060/ http://www.bluewings.com/bwg)

Hapag Fly(+49 511 2200 4713/ http://www.tuifly.com/de/index.html)

MyAir(+44 207 365 1597/ http://www.myair.com/docs/cust/en/index.shtml)

Condor(+1 800 364 1667/ http://www10.condor.com/tcf-us/index.jsp)

Air Arabia(http://www.airarabia.com)

Getting out of Sabiha Gken Airport:

Taxis are available outside the terminal.

The Haydarpaa-Gebze Express shuttleregularly departs from/ arrives at PendikTrain Station(at SAW itself-- just ask atairport information). There are also regularsuburban services.

Hava: Ask at the airport informationdesk for the Hava(airport shuttle) serviceschedule.

Bus(IETT): Ask at the airport informationdesk for bus schedules.

By Train:

Not as popular a mode of transport asbuses, with a much smaller network,there are rail connections from Istanbul

to Ankara, Izmir and Eastern Anatoliancities. Reservations are essential for thesetrips, and there are several classes ofseats and sleepers. International servicesfrom Sirkeci(+90 212 527 0050/51)(on theEuropean side) and Haydarpaa(+90 216336 0475/2063)(Asian side) stations includeVienna, Munich, Budapest, Thessaloniki,

(via Eskisehir, Konya, and Gaziantep),Aleppo(via Tatvan and Van), Tehran,Moscow and Bucharest.

By Bus:

Istanbul is well-connected by bus to everypart of Turkey. Buses are frequent andthe main coach station, Otogar(+90 212658 0505) is at Esenler. There are variousindependent bus companies, all of whomhave a ticket office at the station.(Thelarger ones have offices dotted aroundtown, especially in areas like Taksim,Sultanahmet, Beikta and Bostanc.)

Prices vary slightly depending on the qualityof the vehicle.

By Car:

From the northwest, take route D020southeast. From the southwest, follow routeD100 northeast.

Getting Around:

Within the European Side: Istanbul's mainbus terminal is Byk Otogar(+90 212658 0505) in Eminn. There are alsoshared taxi-vans calleddolmu(literallymeaning"stuffed"!), which can take you

anywhere around town. Other optionsinclude a tramway, a subway, a cable carfrom Karaky to Beyolu and a tiny electrictrolley from Beyolu to Taksim.

Within the Asian Side: The dolmu andbuses are generally the way to go forcheap; taxis are also generally easy to find.

From Europe to Asia and Back: MostIstanbulites rely on the ferries for theirintercontinental travel; indeed, this is thebest way to see the beautiful Haydarpaatrain station, the Kz Kulesi, and the oldmansions lining the European coast. On

the ferry, you are out in the open seaair that is so much a part of Istanbul'soverall atmosphere. Other options forintercontinental travel are a smaller, fasterseabus, or a regular bus from Byk

Otogar(Eminn) or Bostanc(Kadky)over one of the bridges. NileGuide

Fun Facts

2Istanbul

Province: IstanbulCountry: Turkey

Istanbul By The Numbers:

Population: more than 12,000,000(as of2008)

Elevation: 250- 328 feet

Average Annual Rainfall: 25.8 inches

Average Annual Snowfall: 18 inches

Average January Temperature: 4 degrees C

Average July Temperature: 26 degrees C

Quick Facts:

Major Industries: textiles, glass, shoes,motor vehicles, ships, and cement

Ethnic Mix: 90% Turkish, 4% Kurdish,6% Greek, Armenian, Jewish and otherminorities

Electricity: 220 volts, 50 Hz; usually tworound prongs, rarely three round

Time Zone: GMT+2

Country Dialing Code:+90

Area Code: Asia 216/ Europe 212

Did You Know?

Istanbul was founded in 660 BC asByzantium. In 330 AD, it was renamedConstantinople by Constantine the Great,who made it the capital of the EasternRoman(Byzantine) Empire. In 1204, thecity was sacked by Crusaders, and two anda half centuries later it was taken by theTurks. Istanbul was chosen as the officialname in 1930.

Orientation:

Istanbul is located in the northwest part ofthe country on both sides of the Bosphoruswhere the strait enters the Sea of Marmara NileGuide


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Weather

StatisticsJanFebMarAprMayJunJulAugSepOctNovDec Temperature C Average High8811162126282825191410 AverageMean65812162124242116118 Average Low335812172020171386 Temperature F Average High474752617079848377675850Average Mean434246546271767670615346 Average Low393841475563686963564843 Rainy Days121096543459215 Rain Fall(cm)4.64.84.13.42.22.11.71.82.84.95.97.2 Rain Fall (in)1.81.91.61.40.90.80.70.71.11.92.32.8

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Best Places in Istanbul Where the World Really Holds on!

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