Apparel Quality Standards Manual

ApparelQuality Standards Manual

Last Updated: 11/14/2018

Table of Contents

2

Introduction 3

Submission Requirements 4

Evaluation Disposition 5

Misses and Women’s Body Measurements 6

Fabric & Garment Performance Testing 7

Minimum Construction Standards 8

Garment Labeling Requirements

Brand Name, Size, Country of Origin

Fabric Content, Fabric Care and RN #

One-Size Garments

Branded Labels for Tops, Outerwear and Bottoms

Additional Garment Label Requirements Common

Labeling Mistakes – Trademarks Cashmere and

Other Luxury Fabrics

Genuine and Faux Fur Labeling

Leather Labeling

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INTRODUCTION

Quality Assurance Means No Surprises

HSN’s Quality Assurance (QA) program exists to ensure the proper execution of every product we buy and sell. This

manual contains specific information concerning the minimum quality standards HSN expects in the product it

purchases. In addition, we expect our vendors to comply with all applicable legal requirements concerning the

manufacture, sale and advertising of products. In certain instances, HSN standards may be higher than the stated legal

minimums. It is the vendor’s responsibility to read and understand the published guidelines that pertain to the industry.

These include but are not limited to:

• The Textile Fiber Products Identification Act

• The Wool Products Labeling Act

• The Fur Products Labeling Act

• The Amended Care Labeling Rule

• The Consumer Product Safety Improvement Act of 2008

• California Proposition 65

• The information in this manual, in HSN’s Supply Chain Requirements Manual

Because quality cannot be inspected into products, it is the goal of the HSN Quality Assurance program to collaborate

with our vendor as early as practical in order to prevent defects. This partnership extends to design and materials

selection before the product is made, and includes all points in the manufacturing, packaging, shipping and post-delivery

processes. Therefore, it is within the purview of the HSN Quality Assurance program to maintain a close, direct

partnership with our vendors and their manufacturing facilities in order to support continuous improvement efforts and

uphold the most efficient and effective manufacturing practices.

It may be necessary at any time to visit a vendor’s facility to ensure we mitigate risks to delivering 100% acceptable

product.

Our vendors are expected to support our efforts throughout the supply chain to provide our customers with an

unsurpassed purchase experience. Our vendors are also expected to maintain world-class quality and delivery. Such

expectations cannot be met unless our vendors work with us and maintain a comprehensive quality program of their

own. All shipments must be inspected for compliance before HSN ever sees the product.

HSN QA prepared this document to help you through the process of submitting apparel products to HSN. This document

contains general information. It should not be considered a definitive source of regulatory guidance.

SUBMISSION REQUIREMENTS CONTINUED

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TOP (Top of Production) Samples

• Samples of Missy’s size 10 (M) and Women’s size 18W (1X) are required.

• Submit the lightest and darkest colors. Detailed images may be uploaded for additional colors.

• Samples must be representation of the final product from the production lot

• Include all internal and external packaging

• Include all products and components with intended labeling

• Include all inserts, instructions and any other material that is to go to the customer

Shipment of QA Samples

• Ship all QA samples to HSN QA as outlined in the Product Samples section of the HSN Supply Chain Requirements

Manual.

After thoroughly reviewing the QA samples and specification sheet documentation, the HSN QA Product Evaluator will issue

an evaluation report to the vendor via email from the HSN Vendor Portal. The vendor then reviews and responds to the

issues noted in the report and provides the information/materials requested.

EVAUATION DISPOSITION

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Products submitted to HSN QA will be reviewed by the QA evaluator and assigned one of the following evaluation

statuses:

Received: A physical product sample has been received, but the product specification sheet has not been submitted by

the vendor and/or approved by the HSN Merchandising team. An evaluation in Received status requires submission and

approval of the product specification sheet prior to initiation of the formal QA evaluation process.

Pending: QA has received a sample and a Merchandising-approved spec sheet. The evaluation is in process.

Approved: QA has evaluated the sample and found that it meets HSN standards. Rejected:

QA has evaluated the sample and found that it does NOT meet HSN standards.

MISSY’S AND WOMEN’S BODY MEASUREMENTS

Standard Body Measurements

The following tables show standard body measurements to fit the HSN customer. Please base your patterns on these

body measurements. Note: Measurements are body sizes, not manufacturing specifications.

Missy’s Sizes

Women’s Sizes

Height Range

6

X-SMALL SMALL MEDIUM LARGE X-LARGE

0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18

BUST 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 ½ 40 41 ½ 43

WAIST 24 ½ 25 ½ 26 ½ 27 ½ 28 ½ 30 31 ½ 33 34 ½ 36

HIP 34 ½ 35 ½ 36 ½ 37 ½ 38 ½ 39 ½ 41 42 ½ 44 45 ½

PETITE 4’ 11” to 5’ 3”

AVERAGE 5’ 3 ½” to 5’ 7 ½”

TALL 5’ 8” to 5’ 11”

1X 2X 3X 4X 5X

16W 18W 20W 22W 24W 26W 28W 30W 32W 34W

BUST 43 ½ 45 ½ 47 ½ 49 ½ 51 ½ 53 ½ 55 ½ 57 ½ 59 ½ 61 1/2

WAIST 37 39 41 43 45 47 50 53 56 59

HIP 45 ½ 47 ½ 49 ½ 51 ½ 53 ½ 55 ½ 57 ½ 59 ½ 61 ½ 63 1/2

FABRIC AND GARMENT PERFORMANCE TESTING

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Testing Requirements & Process

Please click the below link to access the QRG Global Apparel Testing Protocols(Protocols are located in the QRG QA Testing Forms & Protocols Section by Product Category)

QRG Global Fabric Protocol

QRG Global Garment Protocol

Please note that High Risk and Proprietary Vendors must use UL or Intertek Laboratories for testing.

Low and Moderate risk vendors may use other certified 3rd party labs. However, we encourage all vendor to

use UL or Intertek.

When submitting an item to an Approved 3rd Party Lab, a Lab Test Request Form must accompany the samples being

submitted. The test request forms for HSN Approved Laboratories can be found within the For Your Information section

of the HSN Vendor Portal.

Intertek User Guide

UL User Guide

High Risk vendors must upload all performance and compliance test results to the documents section of the Portal.

Testing Laboratories And Primary Contacts

Underwriters Laboratories (UL)

Nicole Rybarczyk

Consumer & Retail Services

716.266.7078

[email protected]

Intertek (ITS)

Emily Davis

908-635-4441

[email protected]

MINIMUM CONSTRUCTION STANDARDS

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Buttons and Buttonholes

• Buttonholes should be constructed with a top and bottom feed lockstitch sewing machine

• Buttons must have lockstitch to prevent them from falling off

• Buttons must pass care label instructions and must not crack, chip, discolor, rust or melt

• Buttonhole must be wide enough to not pull away from edge of fabric

Cuffs and Collars

• Cuffs and collars must be “clean finished” with single or double needle top stitch and no serge on the cuff

Fabrics

• Fabrics should be chosen for suitability with garment style: drape, strength, warmth, absorbency, wrinkle

resistance, feel, end use, etc.

• First-quality fabrics must be used – no seconds

• The lot must be cut from only one shade of the fabric; related separates must all be the same shade with the same

color name. Minimum shade rating of 4.0 as per ATTCC Gray Scale.

Hems

• Blind hem should be barely visible on outside of garment

• Blind hem stitching should not be more than a ½” apart, unless specified on a particular fabric

• Sleeve and bottom bands must be hemmed “on the round”

Interlinings

• Fusible interlinings must withstand laundering and dry cleaning without bubbling.

• Use tricot interfacing only; nonwoven interfacing is unacceptable.

Needles

• Knits must be sewn with ball point needles

• Wovens must be sewn with sharp point needles

• Leathers and vinyls must be sewn with a wedge point needle

• Correct needle size must be used

Pockets

• Pockets must be uniform in shape and size

• Pockets must be horizontally even

• Start and end of pocket must be reinforced with back tack or bar tack; tack must not run off pocket

MINIMUM CONSTRUCTION STANDARDS CONTINUED

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Seams

• 11 (+/- 1) stitches per inch, woven and knit

• 6 – 7 stitches per inch, leather and vinyl

• Serge on elastic, 6 stitches per inch

• Sewing elastic down on waistband with multi-needle machine, 7 to 8 stitches per inch

• All seams must be finished with no raw edges

• Knit seams must use at least 4 thread safety rather than 3 thread merrow without safety chain

• Seams must be back tacked unless crossed by another seam

Threads

• No monofilament thread

• Thread must match garment unless specified as contrast

Top Stitch

• Top stitching must be evenly stitched; 10 to 12 stitches per inch unless specified differently

• Double needle top-stitch must be a uniform width between needles

• Top-stitching on knits should be chain-stitched to prevent thread breakage

Zippers

• Zipper tape must match garment’s main color unless specified

• Space from the top of the zipper to the waistband at closing should not be more than ⅛”

GARMENT LABELING REQUIREMENTS CONTINUED

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One-size Garments

One-size garments must conform to the following requirements:

• If the garment is one size across both the missy’s and women’s range, your label must read: “One size fits most”

• If the garment is one size for missy’s only and another size for women’s, your labels must read: “One size missy”

and “One size women”

Branded Label For Tops, Outerwear and Bottoms

The branded label, for a top and for outerwear, should be securely attached to the center back of the neck seam.

For bottoms, the brand label and fiber content/care label should be sewn onto the center back of the waist.

Attachment of the branded label should not obscure the information on the other labels.

Additional Garment Label Requirements

Per the Federal Trade Commission, the only items on a label that can be abbreviated are “USA” and the size; e.g., Med

for medium. The fiber content cannot be abbreviated; i.e., “100% Poly” is not acceptable. The label must state “100%

Polyester”.

All labels must be woven fabric, self-color (should match shell color as close as possible) and securely sewn. Information

on labels must be embroidered, written in English (care symbols are not allowed unless accompanied by the

corresponding written care instructions) and legible.

Changes that are made in ink or white-out are not acceptable.

Reversible Garments:

All labels should be side-tacked for easy removal. Reversible labels should not be hard sewn.

GARMENT LABELING REQUIREMENTS CONTINUED

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Exceptions:

• fibers with a functional significance, e.g. spandex (optional)

• any wool fiber, which MUST be identified, even if less than 5%

Example: 96% cotton / 4% spandex -or- 96% cotton / 4% other fiber

If the spandex above was actually wool, the only labeling option is: 96% cotton / 4% wool

6. No abbreviations, asterisks, footnotes or “ditto” marks may be used.

7. There is a ± 3% tolerance, by weight, for products composed of more than one fiber. These products should consist

of and be labeled as 100%.

Example: claimed fiber:

actual fiber can be between

60% cotton / 40% polyester

63% cotton / 37% polyester

-or-

57% cotton / 43% polyester

8. There is NO TOLERANCE allowed for products composed of one fiber. These products should consist of and be

labeled as 100%.

Example: 100% cotton

Cashmere and Other Luxury Fibers

These fibers must be exactly as stated on the sewn label. Other requirements are:

• All colors must be tested by an approved 3rd party testing laboratory

• The lowest level of cashmere found within a line of goods, after rounding down, will become the fiber content for the

entire line. For example, if four colors of HSN #123456 are tested as 100% cashmere and their actual results are

99.2%, 97.5%, 91.3% and 90.9%, each item within that group will need to be labeled 90% cashmere, with the rest of

the fiber content percentage stated in the test report. There are no exceptions.

• Also, please note that any fiber content stated as 100% must be 100% to be labeled as such.

• The ±3.0% leeway applies only to non-cashmere blends.

Faux Fur Labeling

Faux fur apparel sold at HSN must clearly state “faux fur” in one of the following forms:

• Permanent label attached to garment: may be added to the permanent fur label, which is attached to the garment.

• Temporary tag: may be added to a temporary tag

• Sticker: a sticker affixed in a conspicuous place.

GARMENT LABELING REQUIREMENTS CONTINUED

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Leather and Imitation Leather Labeling

All Vendors are required to follow the US Leather Labeling Laws for any apparel or accessory item consisting of leather in

part or in whole. In layman’s terms:

It is deceptive to use the term “leather” or other terms suggestive of leather to describe products unless the product is

composed of leather in all substantial parts.

imitation leather: If all or part of a product is made of non-leather material that appears to be leather, it should be

disclosed. Example: manmade material, vinyl, polypropylene, etc.

embossed or processed leather: The kind and type of leather must be disclosed when it has been embossed to simulate a

different type of leather. Example: croc-embossed cowhide trim.

backing material: The composition of the different backing material should be disclosed if it is visible and consists of non-

leather with the appearance of leather. Example: Top-grain cowhide backed with vinyl.

bonded leather: Parts made from reconstituting shredded, pulverized or ground leather cannot be labeled as “leather”. If

labeled as “bonded leather”, the percentage of leather and non-leather components must be identified. Example: bonded

leather strap, 60% leather fibers, 40% non-leather substances.

Please note that it is your responsibility to know and apply the complete guidelines for every item that qualifies. The

above information is by no means comprehensive. Please use the link above to read and understand all the details

contained in the legislation.

Click the below link to see the complete FTC regulation on this topic

16 CFR Part 24: Guides for Select Leather and Imitation Leather Products