Alternate method of joining in Apparel sector

TOPICAlternate Method Of Joining

ALTERNATIVE METHOD OF JOINING

Sewing is done by needle and thread for joining of fabric is the oldest and widely used method. By researching with a long time some alternative method are invented for joining of fabrics. In some special cases without normal sewing, some alternative methods are used whice are most important and useful.

TYPES OF JOININGMany attempts have been developed to replace sewing but the required speed, flexibility, appearance and performance which can be achieved only with sewing. So the alternative methods of fabric joining have their uses confined to some limited situations.Some mentionable alternative methods of fabric joining are:

Welding Adhesive Moulding Fusing

LIMITATIONSLower joining speed hence less production. Seam appearance is not so good.Seam performance is not satisfactory in some aspects

compared to sewn seam. Alternation of seam is quite difficult, also impossible in

most of the cases. Comparatively less comfortable due to harsh feeling.

WELDINGWelding is the process of garment manufacturing which involve the sealing together of thermoplastic materials but the heat is not applied externally.Basic procedure of the method;

Heat applied on the fabric

↓

Melting of thermoplastic materials

↓

Applying pressure on melted material

↓

Creation of bonding

↓

Cooling

↓

Fabric joined

Amount Of Heat Generation Depends On:Amplitude of frequency.

Frequency.

Pressure.

Time of frequency.

Advantages:Water cannot penetrate into seam or joining.Disadvantages:Used in less costly garment.Used in the fabric where amount of thermoplastic is 65%.

Uses: For edge neatening of fabric. Shaping of different component of garments. Produce button hole.For joining of motif.For making tie.For sealing the edge of ribbon or lace.

MOULDINGMolding is not an accurate and entirely used method for fabric.It is also called an alternative method of fabric joining because by using this method we can give a definite shape of the garment without creating seam.

Usage Molding process is used to make lady’s trousers, kid’s trousers,cap etc

Basic procedure of the method:

The desired shape by shrinkage ↓ Heat apply ↓ Thermoplastic fiber in fabric become soften ↓ Cooling ↓ Desired shape

FUSING Fusing is an alternative method of joining fabric. It is widely used to attach the interlining.Using is controlled by four processing components such as: Temperature Time Pressure CoolingTemperatureThere is a limited range of temperatures that are effective for each type of resin. In general, resin-melt temperatures range from 1300 to 1600 C and the best results will normally occur within ± 70C of the temperature specified by the manufacturer of the fusible.CoolingCooling the fused assemblies to 300 to – 350 C makes for a higher level of productivity than if operators have to wait for the assemblies to cool naturally.

FLOW CHART OF GARMENT FUSING PROCESS

Part of garment is to be fused spreaded 

↓ Resinated interlining surface is placed and applied required pressure

and temperature 

↓ Resin on coating of interlining is melt by heat in to the fabric under

pressure 

↓ It becomes cool and hard both the fabric and interlining is attached

FUSING MACHINE

A press is used for fusing and three basic types are – Steam press Flat bed press Conveyor belt press

ADHESIVEAdhesive means a substance that causes fibers,yarns,fabrics or other materials to adhere or stick together.

Types of Adhesive:A coating of thin adhesive film on silicon paper which is transferred to the fabric and

the plies of the fabrics become joined.

A material which melts on applying heat and helps in joining the fabrics.

The name of adhesives which are used for joining fabric without sewing;Spray Fabric AdhesiveFabric GlueBonding Fabric or Fusible WebFusible InterfacingHousehold glue

Applications: The use of an adhesive thread as one of the looper threads which can be sewn in to

the edge neatening of the hem.

Used for water proof garments.

Another use of adhesive is in seams which will take no stain.

COMPARISON BETWEEN SEWING METHOD AND ALTERNATIVE METHODSL No. Sewing Method Alternative Method

01 Garments are joined here by using needle and thread.

Two or more fabrics are joined here by using fusion glueing, stapling, moulding and adhesive.

02 Garments become soft to the sewing line.

The fabrics becomes stiff and rough to the sewing line.

03 It is comfortable during the end use. It is not comfortable during the end use (Not perfect for moulding).

04 The production of seam by using this method contains higher strength.

Here, the seam strength is comparatively less than sewing method.

05 Fabrics can be joined here by sewing at the higher speed.

Fabrics are joined here comparatively at lower speed than sewing method.

06 Most of the fabrics are joined by using sewing method.

All the fabrics cannot be joined by using this method. The fabrics must contain 65% thermoplastic fibre for using this method.

07 It is most useful and universal method. The using of this method is rare.