3. CUA, History of fashion - · PDF filefashion worked in early 1900s. 1900 1910 ... Brook Shields for Calvin Klein shows American young women that “designer” jeans are a staple

FashionHistory1900- Now

Thorstein VeblenTheory of the Leisure Class

“Conspicuous Consumption”

Very useful in describing how fashion worked in early 1900s.

1900 1910

Silhouetteisstillpinchedinthemiddlebutoutrageouspaddingbeginstodisappear:Suit-likefashions

PaulPoiret (20April1879,Paris,France– 30April1944,Paris)

FascinatedbytheEast

Warbringsutilitytofashion,especiallyinGreatBritain.Womenleavehometoworkinfactoriesandoffices.

1916

MasculineandutilitarianinresponsetotheWarEffort.

Athletics(tennis,swimming,andcyclingespecially)movewomentowardfunctionoverforminthosesettings,athleticsmakeitsmarkonstreetwear..

1929

1920sbringeconomicboom.Urbanlifebecomeshometo“flappers”(partygirls).Skirtsradicallyriseby1925formostwomen.(Whoisgoingtogobacktotheoldways?)

Silhouetteisboxierandflatchested(androgynous).

Theslangword"flapper",describingayoungwoman,issometimessupposedtorefertoayoungbirdflappingitswingswhilelearningtofly.However,itmayderivefromanearlieruseinnorthernEnglandtomean"teenagegirl",referringtoonewhosehairisnotyetputupandwhoseplaitedpigtail"flapped"onherback;[2] orfromanolderwordmeaning"prostitute".[3] Theslangword"flap"wasusedforayoungprostituteasearlyas1631.[4] Bythe1890s,theword"flapper"wasemerginginEnglandaspopularslangbothforaveryyoungprostitute,[5][6] andinamoregeneral–andlessderogatorysense– ofanylivelymid-teenagegirl.[7]

http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=112813709

CocoChanel

CocoChanellearnsfromwealthymenhowtofashionformwithfunctioncomfortably.

Jerseyknits,costumejewelry,looserfit

1930s

1930s:Hemlinesdropdownagain– butnottofloor.Silhouettesoftens.ThisisthedecadeoftheGreatDepression.

Street fashion: A nod to glamour in the stole. New influence: Hollywood (escapism!)

InfluenceoftheentertainmentworldCabCallowayina“zootsuit.”

Women:Broadershouldersbutsofterdrape.Men:Broadershouldersandelongatedtorso.

Newkindsoffashioninfluencers:Thosewhocangetawaywithtrousersinpublic!

Whyarethesewomenwearingtrousers?

WWII:Herewegoagain.

Skirtshortensabitandtheoveralllookisfunctionalandsomber.Hatsarewheretheaveragewomancanexpressherself.Shoulderbagsaremorepopular.

ChristianDior’sNewLook,1947

Feminine,glamorous,intunetonewandbettertimes.

Tiredofwartimeandwarrations,womengoNUTSforTheNewLook:Fullbustandhips,cinchedwaistaccomplishedwithrestrictiveundergarments.CocoChanelisNOThappy.

1950s

1950saretimeofeconomicboom.Thehourglasssilhouetteremainstheguidingstandard.Hairiscoiffedandmakeupbecomesmorepopular.

Men’ssuitingisfullerandbroadshouldered.

TheriseofTeenageSubculture

Bluejeansbegintocatchonbutnotforeveryoneandnoteverywhere.

Early1960s

The60sbeginwithJackie

Increaseddomesticactivitymeansthatfashionscanbecopiedwith”easytouse”patternsathome.

MaryQuant,LondonFashion,andthedemiseofHauteCouture,mid1960sAnewthingtoworryabout:“Awomanisonlyasyoungasherknees.”

1969:Workwearforworkingwomen Leaner,moreyouthfulstylescarryoverintothe1970s.

Twiggy

AmericanHippyinfluence

Menswearisrelaxedandeasy(relativetobefore).

Fashion-era.comSears Catalogue, 1977“Unisex”

Youthsubculturebecomesmuseformanymore.

Newkindofglamour(helpedalongonthedancefloor).Young,urbanmendressjustalittlelesssoberly.

1980

Workwearforwomengetsalittlemoreseriousasmorewomenworkinprofessionalsettings.

1985:PrincessDianaisafashionleaderinthe80s.

DonnaKarananswerswomen’spleaformorerelaxedandunderstatedprofessionalwear.

CindyCrawfordforSears

1980s:BrookShieldsforCalvinKleinshowsAmericanyoungwomenthat“designer”jeansareastapleinthewardrobe.

Broadshoulderedandbrightforwork.

Grungeofearly1990s.

Late1990sandearly2000sandnewmusesforfashion.(Glamour,Hollywood,andthequestforsexiness.)

Riseof“FastFashion.”

1990sistheriseofurbanstreetwearandmusicalinfluenceonfashion.

Now:Continuedcasual,morefitted,athleticapparelformostoccasions.

Morethanever,”fashion”meansclothing,décor,andlifestyle.It’sawholepackage.

Shhhhh! Onasheetofpaper,writethewords,ideas,images,andvalueswhichcometomindforeachphotograph.

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TheLanguageofFashionInyoursmallgroup,discussthewords,ideas,images,andvalueswhichcometomindforeachimage.

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