2020 - Visit Turku

Your Åboriginal guide, from Finland’s first city to the latest trends.

2020

In Turku with a camera

PRESENTING THE BEST INSTA-SPOTS P. 6

PILGRIMAGE IN TURKU’S ARCHIPELAGOSt Olav’s Waterway is heaven for sedate explorers p.16

EACH BITE OF HUNGER IS AN OPPORTUNITYThe flavours of Turku’s restaurants p. 11

THE MOOMIN PHENOMENONThey come from far and wide to the home of ToveJansson’s fairytale characters p. 24

KISS MY TURKU IS A CONTENT MARKETING CAMPAIGN PUBLISHED BY VISIT TURKU, PROVIDING INSPIRATION TO TOURISTS AND LOCALS ONLINE AND IN PRINT,

IN COOPERATION WITH ITS PARTNERS.

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5 TURKU INSPIRES Sounds that echo through the soul Musical highlights from Turku and the archipelago.

6–9 Insta-ready Turku The best Instagram-spots in the city.

10 TURKU INSPIRES In the footsteps of Paavo Nurmi The Flying Finn was a local Turku legend.

11 The editor’s recommendations x 6 Tantalising tastes of Turku’s restaurants.

12–13 A-HOY! Local food in sight Silja’s herring is locally sourced.

14–15 Turku-Design Embark on a voyage of discovery What is that and where can I get one?

16–19 The easy explorer’s heaven Would you believe, a pilgrimage route runs across the sea and islands of Turku’s archpelago.

20 Rediscover your roots - in the trees! Luxury and nature in a tent at Ruissalo Spa.

21 TURKU INSPIRES Thousands of island stories Showcasing 5 of the 40,000 islands in Turku’s archipelago.

22 From Turku to the water x 6 From the Aura to the Airisto waves and back.

23 From side to side across the sea Ride with the Vikings to Turku and Stockholm.

24–25 Moomins - the phenomenon Why is Tove Jansson so big in Japan?

26–27 Places to go with kids x 10 Childhood summer’s are never dull in Turku.

28–31 Underground Turku Dig deep into an alternative culture.

32–33 Galleries and museums x 12 Origins of the past and the original of today.

34 Walking & guided tours Let Visit Turku be your local guide.

35 Maps & information Answers to what and where.

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THE SIGHT OF FLY-FISHING HAS ME HOOKED! The colourful, fluttering wings of fly bait across the shimmering water is as alluring to me as it is to the fish. Fascinated onlookers like me see fly-fishing as a hypnotic art form. For fishermen, the peaceful experience of nature is often more important than the catch. A responsible fisherman appreciates our diverse and sensitive environment just as much as the responsible traveller.

Responsible and sustainable choices are the hottest trend in tourism. It is trend that I hope becomes permanent. A fly-fishing trip in the Turku Archipelago is an example of sustainable tourism, requiring both tourism entrepreneurs and their clients to be ecologically conscious. A traveller's responsibility begins at home, when deciding a destination and modes of transport. Places to stay, activities and food are also value choices. Whilst in the archipelago, I recommend ordering a plate of ‘trash fish’ or fish sourced nearby, which are often rejected for no good reason.

So, dear traveller, you can see you have an important role to play in sustainable tourism, as your choices, demands and behaviours make local businesses accountable and create services that place the least possible strain on the environment. Willing entrepreneurs will also benefit from Visit Finland's Sustainable Travel Finland programme, helping to realise these ideals and promote Finland as a pioneer in sustainable tourism.

The world's most magnificent archipelago is an asset for Finnish tour-ism, whose beauty should be enjoyed by all but only through a respectful approach to nature and local culture. I firmly believe that the charm of the archipelago has the power to convert every tourist into a protector of the environment. Alternative tactics of blame or shame for tourist behaviour are not an effective way to address our climate concerns.

If you haven't yet seen and experienced the Turku Archipelago, enjoy the tips and advice this magazine provides, including some of our favourite islands and tales of a journey through the St Olav Waterway. And if you prefer to spend time in an urban setting, you can still enjoy the treasures of the archipelago by visiting the restaurants and markets of Turku, where the archipelago is brought into the city.

Anne-Marget Hellén Director of TourismVisit Turku

editorial

PUBLISHER: Visit Turku 2020

CONCEPT AND COORDINATION: Drama Queen Communications

EDITORIAL TEAM: Liina Komi, Sanna Keskinen, Heidi Tuominen, Merja Kallikari, Jemina Sormunen, Kim Allen-Mersh, Juuso Suominen, Stina Frimodig, Jari Salonen, Rami Kangas, Julia Lehtilä and Patrick Selin

THE SMALL PRINT: Of course, it goes without saying that things can change, but you knew that already.So don't be surprised if that happens but embrace the natural course of life by checking updates and opening hours online. Kiss kiss.

2020

Baltic Jazz 3rd-7th JulyBaltic Jazz, which has become a summer tradition on the Is-land of Kimito, is a cozy festival for the whole family, taking place in the historical Taalin-tehdas Iron Works. Combining styles of classical jazz and swing, the programme features both top, international names as well as local stars.

Turku Sea Jazz 31st July-1st AugustThis newcomer to Turku's music scene offers a different kind of city festival. Inviting you to the atmospheric Ruis-salo Boatyard, audiences can enjoy international jazz artists, top domestic ensembles and stand-out names from the music world.

IN SUMMER 2020, DISCOVER ENCHANTING MUSIC

IN THE CITY, THE VILLAGES, ON THE ISLANDS AND AT SEA.

Korpo Sea Jazz 22nd-26th JulyA bold, modern and, in some places even experimental jazz festival gathers together the most current names of Finnish jazz. Hosted in the beautiful Archipelago Sea, the local concert venues in the authentic island scenery provide a unique atmosphere. The artistic director for summer 2020, jazz singer Kadi Vija, is known for being a master of improvisation.

COLLECT THE ENTIRE SERIESArchipelago Sea Jazz is a new series of four festivals, which combines two of the world's most beautiful things: the archipelago and jazz. The programme will be released during the spring at archipelagoseajazz.fi. Stay tuned.

The sounds echo through the soul

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Åland Sea Jazz 7th-8th AugustThis event is the last in the Ar-chipelago Sea Jazz series, but by no means the least. Held in the Merikortteli of Mariehamn, the debut for this Scandina-vian festival offers a Nordic programme, an intimate atmosphere and high-quality jazz in unique locations.

TURKU INSPIRES

Turku Music Festival 6th-16th AugustFinland’s best-known classical music festival never rests on its laurels, but attracts cultural tourists from around the world with its offering of international star performers and adven-tures across the boundaries of musical genres. In August 2020, about 40 different events will take place throughout historic Turku, with concert venues ranging from a private home to a castle, a church and an old boatyard. The summer pro-gramme will be published online during the spring. turunmusiikkijuhlat.fi

54 — KISS MY TURKU 2020

HOW IS A TRAVEL DESTINATION REALLY CHOSEN? SURPRISE SURPRISE: THE TOP CRITERION NOWADAYS IS ITS INSTAGRAMMABILITY. SO HERE’S 22 PLACES AND THINGS IN TURKU WHOSE AESTHETICS SHOW UP WELL IN PIXEL-FORM.

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Old and Older Turku x 5TURKU’S POPULAR CASTLE AND CATHEDRAL ALWAYS TREND WELL, BUT THERE’S MANY OTHER WELL-AGED, PATINA-COATED ATTRACTIONS TO SNAP.

Medieval Main Street 5 Centuries-old stone walled buildings lining narrow, cobblestone medieval streets. You don't always have to go to Tallinn or Stockholm - the same ‘old town’ feeling is also found in Turku.

Stairs to Koskenniemenkatu Street Behind the cathedral, an enchanting set of stairs leads up to the summit of Yliopistonmäki hill. Whichever direction your camera’s pointed, you’re forced to refocus for all the cultural history and academic tradition in view.

The Luostarinmäki Handicrafts Museum 6 The 30 buildings of this outdoor museum offer an extremely rare and unique photographic opportunity. It’s no surprise that this distinctive 19th century neighbourhood has appeared in movies. turku.fi/en/handicraftsmuseum

Casagrande House Adorning the wall of the building at the edge of Vähätori square is the text ‘Omnia Vincit Amor 1588-1904’. In summer, the beau-tiful people of Turku flock to some of the city’s best restaurants and embrace the vibrant terrace milieu. casagrandentalo.fi

Port Arthur aka Portsa 7 Is this Finland's most beautiful neighborhood? We think so. The cobblestone streets and former homes of sailors and their wives are now a thriving urban community, with the most beautiful homes and courtyards in Finland.

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Picture Perfect Ruissalo Ruissalo is a beautiful place to visit whenever you're in Turku. Famous for the Ruisrock music festival, other photographic attractions are hiding there, like the old villas in the Kansanpuisto Park, where the colours of the wooden architecture are straight from the menu of an old-fashioned ice cream parlor. Many of the villas have their own private bathing huts on the beach. A hundred years ago, swimmers didn’t jump straight from the pier to the sea but took a more civilized approach, from a hole in the hut floor.

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Ah, the River Aura x 5THE RIVER AURA IS TURKU’S VITAL ARTERY CONNECTING WITH THE SEA. HERE'S A FEW TIPSON WHERE TO FIND THE MOST BEAUTIFUL SPOTS.

The Shore at Tervatori 1 Just a stone's throw from the Cathedral Bridge is a place known as Tervatori on Google Maps. The Lönnrotintie path briefly passes the water’s edge on a wooden walkway. On the opposite shore you can see the verdant banks, old houses and the serene tower of Turku Cathedral. It’s like a moment frozen in time. Indigenous people of the 19th century believed a camera captured the soul. Well, it’s quite possible the soul of Turku is exposed for all at this very spot.

Låna-picnic cruise 2 Hire an idyllic electric boat from the shore of Vähätori Square and enjoy some fresh camera angles from the river perspective. Smile – there’s no more central spot in Turku. lanaturku.fi

Föri What’s orange, loved by the locals and rocks from shore to shore of the river? The answer: the over 100-year-old Föri ferry. If rickety authenticity is your thing, then hurry – you’ll get a free River Aura cruise into the bargain.

Riverboats 3 The River Aura's fabled fleet of restaurant boats look simply beautiful on a summer’s night. Stay late to snap the sunrise.

Library Bridge 4 The moment there’s a whisper of beautiful light, you’ll find a passionate photographer setting their tripod at the foot of the library bridge. Come to see and you’ll understand why.

6 — KISS MY TURKU 2020 7

OI, WONDERFUL WALO!Turku has one rooftop bar, the Walo Rooftop Bar, located on the roof of Wiklund's new department-store-hotel combo.

On the ninth and tenth floors, the rooftop bar is a must-see for both Turku residents and visitors to the city. The lo-cals are particularly fascinated by the bird's-eye view of the new market square development (looking like a sink-hole. For many, it’s a fascinating surprise looking at Turku at an angle from which the city has never been seen before. #walorooftopbar

Insta-activists are delighted by the big Kiss my Turku letters above Walo. They have featured in quite a few posts since the bar was opened.

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Kiss my Turku ‘Kiss my Turku’ is displayed in large letters across the city, such as at the Paavo Nurmi Stadium, or the Walo Rooftop Bar.

STROLL ON SCREEN WITH THE MOVIE WALK Dozens of movies and TV series have been filmed in Turku this millennium, which is no surprise with such a fabulous atmos-phere for the story’s backdrop. Visit Turku’s guided Movie Walk tour takes you to the heart of the city’s filming locations for the reasonable price of €10. Find more info at: visitturku.fi

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Café Art 1 Turku's most instagrammatic spot is, of course, on the riverside, where Café Art, known for having the city’s best baristas, remains a prized possession of Turku’s café culture. The riverside terrace has all you need to be an Insta-primo, with pastel-coloured stone buildings, the rays of light streaming between ancient trees and a beautiful pattern on the foam of your latte. cafeart.fi

Café Qwensel 2 In the 1700’s, it was a pan of coffee rather than a luxurious latte. One of Turku's best kept secrets is the café found at the Pharmacy Museum. cafeqwensel.fi

Tiirikkala Café Bar 3 Fun fact, this is Turku's most photographed woodshed. The beautifully popular Tiirikkala serves from the former prem-ises of an Artek shop and nobleman's wood store. tiirikkala.fi

Turku Market Hall 4 Come and see if you can capture with your camera a slice of Turku’s culinary soul. The hall building, dating from 1896, provides a setting for Turku’s merchants to concoct their wares within. kauppahalli.fi

Kakolanruusu 5 A relaxed yet refined restaurant on Kakolanmäki hill, where only at the turn of the millennium people were still serving time not food. This well-decorated restaurant is located in the majestic milieu of the old prison. Arrive up the hill in style aboard Turku’s new ‘Funi’ funicular. kakolanruusu.fi

Pinella 6 This might be Finland's oldest restaurant but it’s no mu-seum of food. The Puupinella side exudes the best of this bright and venerable building. Beautiful dishes, fabulous drinks and the most majestic columns in Turku. pinella.fi

A Feast for The Eyes x 6WHERE TO GO TO SPOT BEAUTIFUL COFFEES, DRINKS AND MEALS?

Statues x 5Posankka 7 Guarding the entrance to the student village and Caribia Spa Hotel is a bizarre yet beau-tiful union of pig and duck. It is the unique creation of artist Alvar Gullichsen.

Daisy 8 She loves me, she loves me not? Forum Mari-num's hyper-realistic giant flower by Jani Rät-tyä and Antti Stöckell, photgraphs superbly.

Stargazing At each corner of the Myllysilta Bridge are statues of primitive human-like figures lounging on Turku’s river benches. The works of Kari-Petteri Kakko simply scream for a selfie.

Meeting in Turku 1812 Pose with the Russian Tzar and the Crown Prince of Sweden. The statue by Andrei Kovaltshuk found at the end of the Library Bridge looks very traditional but was actually made in 2012.


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KaskisKaskis is a superstar of the restaurant scene in Turku, both high in quality and spontaneity, whilst at the same time delightfully uncomplicated. Having received multiple recommendations in the Michelin guide, it’s a very good idea to book a few months in advance. The place is small but the experience great. Kaskenkatu 6a

LuduOffering casual fine dining, Ludu is the right choice when you want more than a meal. The dishes are like works of art, and the atmosphere in the old paint shop is stunningly beautiful - especially by candlelight.Linnankatu 17

BassiIf you love seafood, you’ll also love Bassi. The restaurant special-ises in fish and seafood delicacies to share with your dinner party. The bountiful seafood platter on the menu is truly an impressive sight! The menu also includes meat and vegetarian dishes.Läntinen Rantakatu 9

RosterIn the shadow of Turku Cathedral, in the charming building of the old Governor's Magazine, Roster serves good food with great style, free from the pretence of fine dining. The rugged interior and relaxed customer service exemplifies the mood. Tuomiokirkonkatu 6

E. Ekblom On the shores of the River Aura, in a light pink stone house, you’ll discover E. Ekblom, offering international flavours and bistro-style cuisine and where the wine list is something special.Läntinen Rantakatu 3

HüggeWant to try out some tasty vege-food? At Hügge, everything feels like the name suggests, from décor to dining, all is a delightful ‘hug’. Whatever you pick from the menu, it’s always a colourful sight and a party for your palate.Linnankatu 3

In need of some restaurant tips for Turku? Here are a few, and more are found at kissmyturku.com!

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TURKU INSPIRESONE OF THE BEST ATHLETES OF ALL TIMES REALLY PUT FINLAND ON

THE MAP OF THE WORLD IN THE 1920S. PAAVO NURMI WAS FROM TURKU.

In the footsteps of Paavo Nurmi

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The Flying FinnPaavo Nurmi (1897–1973) was a Turku-born runner whose career culminated in, among other things, twelve Olympic medals. With such accolades, Nurmi was nobly granted the international nickname, The Flying Finn. Today, the sporting city of Turku honours its own running legend with a running statue on the Aura Bridge, the Paavo Nurmi Stadium and the Paavo Nurmi Festivals – a series of events which include the marathon.

PS. The museum of Paavo Nurmi's childhood home is located at Jarrumiehenkatu 4 as 17. It's open for visitors by special arrangement, just call: +358 2 2627 900 (Visit Turku).

Paavo Nurmi Games 9th JuneFinland's only event in the International Athletics IAAF World Challenge Series in June will bring both domestic stars and a host of competitive international stars to Turku.paavonurmigames.fi

Paavo Nurmi Marathon 22th August The traditional running event takes marathon runners in the real footsteps of Paavo Nurmi along the River Aura and through the Island of Ruissalo, renowned for its natural beauty.paavonurmimarathon.fi

Challenge Turku 1st - 2nd AugustWhen a marathon alone is not enough, come to Turku where you can take on our triathlon challenge. With the swim located in the Aura and the run taking you down-town along the riverside, only when you hit the bike are you taken out of town. challenge-turku.com

EVENTS IN SUMMER 2020:


Charter a course to quality and taste

Did you know that at the dining tables aboard Tallink Silja’s ships, you’ll discover tomatoes from Paimio, ham from Huittinen and her-ring from Pyhämaa? The white ships steer towards favouring ingredi-ents from local producers as well as food from responsible sources.

“Why search for something on the far side of the world if it can be sourced nearby?” points out Riku Alho, the kitchen manager aboard Tallink Silja.

High quality local food is a choice that many cruise passengers vote for with their wallet. So, what direction should you look to discover local food?

A-HOY ! Local food in sight

WHY RETURN TO SHORE TO EAT? WE ASKED OURSELVES THE SAME QUESTION, AS NOWADAYS ABOARD SILJA YOU CAN ENJOY EXTRAORDINARILY GOOD FOOD PREPARED FROM HIGH QUALITY LOCAL INGREDIENTS.

Waves of local food Every day, fresh vegetables from the Alitalo garden in Paimio are brought aboard Silja. The vegetables vary depending on demand. The ship’s wok dishes are one delicious example of where they’re used. The servings of pork and cold cuts are brought in from the Kivikylä charcuterie, based in Lappi and Huittinen in the Satakunta region. You can enjoy these delicious cured meats at the breakfast table, for instance. Those with a gourmet sweet tooth will find it hard not to over-indulge in the cakes, pastries and biscuits from MBakery – cho-sen as Finland's Best Bakery in 2015. Silja is one of the boats cruising between Finland and Sweden, so of course Finland is not the only local food source, with ingredients also brought aboard in Sweden. For example, there's plenty of Swedish cheeses in the restaurants (but also Finnish as well).

Responsible fishing from the seas nearby

When casting about the fish table, hook yourself some Baltic herring. The shrimps and herring used by Tallink Silja are MSC certified, a guarantee of sustainable fishing. So you can enjoy them whilst feeling good about yourself.

Baltic herring products board Silja from the fishing village of Ihamo in Pyhämaa. Fisherman Vento has been a long-time part-ner, always providing seasonal products, such as various mari-nated herring, among other things. Last Christmas, for example, passengers got to taste Vento's rum-raisin herring.

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”W E M U ST K E E P TO H I G H STA N DA R D S E V E RY M I N U T E A N D E V E RY H O U R O F E V E RY DAY.”

R I KU A L H O, K I TC H E N M A N AG E RTA L L I N K S I L J A / B A LT I C P R I N C E S S

TIP: On Silja's 11-hour archipelago cruise you can taste what’s on offer on two separate ships. Enjoy a long brunch aboard Galaxy on your way from Turku to Mariehamn.On the way back, head to the Baltic Princess buffet tables. It's impressive, you’ll see.

BOOK YOUR CRUISE: tallinksilja.fi

The Turku bakery, MBakery, is well known for its colourful and individual cakes and pastries. Silja has been so delighted with the bakery's confectionery that the on-site pastries, bis-cuits and cakes are now available on every ship. On the other hand, it’s little wonder con-sidering MBakery has been the best bakery in Finland, starring in a 2015 TV programme of the same name.

If you're not familiar with the heavenly delica-cies of MBakery, pop into Piece of Cake in the Turku Market Hall or the M Kitchen at Turku's lovely Aboa Vetus & Ars Nova Museum.

MMMMMMM... WHAT A CAKE!


REVERED NORDIC DESIGN has been refined with a fresh and playful south-western twist, on the River Aura shores. A trav-eller can immediately experience the charms of Turku Design with a stay at the freshly renovated Solo Sokos Hotel Turun Seurahuone, a boutique hotel sparkling with an unabashed local image and nearly 100 years of history. Opened in 1928, the hotel was designed by Erik Bryggman and Ilmari Aho-nen.

"It's no coincidence the hotel looks the way it does to-day. The style reflects the liberated spirit and language of design of the 1920’s, with a modern twist,” explains hotel manager, Sanna Paloniemi.

A bounty of inspiration

The bold and resplendent milieu of Turun Seurahuone has been seasoned with Turku design and the input of local artists. The hotel is an enticing shop window.

“Elegant local style is reflected not only in the décor but also staff uniforms, with women's dresses and tunics designed by local designer, MyOlsson. The scarves and men's handker-chiefs are also from the same clothing collection.

The men's uniforms are completed by a Woobs wooden bowtie, with the Turku Seurahuone façade printed on one side and the Gunnar logo on the other. A more substantial piece of local wooden design is the restaurant table, carved from a

150-year-old Turku wych elm. Tables are delightfully set with Terraviiva's pearl decorated ceramic plates.

“Pearls are a theme that reinforces the spirit of the 1920s, reflected through personnel as well as details in the décor. Turku Pearl Jeweller Blingi has created custom-made neck-laces, while BEdesign has gorgeous mirrors hanging on the walls and adorned with pearls,” says Paloniemi.

Curious and responsible

An inspired traveller staying at Seurahuone will find reward when venturing away from the chain stores because there’s a strong love for Turku and local design.

“Absolutely! There’s lots of cool stuff being done in Tur-ku,” says designer Anna Hormio of KUI Design.

“Turku is an important theme in our collection, and much of the store's products are made in our work-shop in Manilla.

Dedicated to domestic brands, PUF is de-lighted to welcome a fashion trend that keeps charming its customers with local designs.

“People are more aware and are definitely more curious than before because they want to know what the product is made from,” states Hanna Pennanen and Matti Järvinen,

founders of PUF.“We believe that people increasingly appreciate original

design shops and product individuality, in addition to quality and functionality of course. For our part, we want to invest in our cultural foundations and to continually strive for its de-velopment.”

It is easy for a shopper in Turku to be responsible – and also extremely proud of his Åbo-tennis socks at home.

WHY GO TO PARIS WHEN WE HAVE TURKU?* EXACTLY! COME TO TURKU, STAY OVERNIGHT IN THE NEW TURUN SEURAHUONE AND DISCOVER INSPIRATION IN THE FLAGSHIP SHOPS OF THE CITY.

The most passionate Turku fans will discover their for-tune in Fortuna Court in KUI Design, where home tex-tiles, jewellery, clothing and accessories tell urban sto-ries in style.“Turku is strongly featured in our products and often in humorous ways,” says designer Anna Hormio. The city ferry Föri was one of KUI Design's first patterns, and a natural follow-up is the fun Funi collection, celebrating the city's most talked about mode of transport. The im-age of the whimsical hillside lift has found its way onto a chopping board, a parking disc and a poster, to name a few."Funi products have aroused mixed and surprisingly strong feelings," Hormio reveals.

ITEMS FLUENT IN TURKU DIALECT

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One of the most popular Turku products at PUF (found on Linnankatu, next to the Turku City Library) is the “Varför Paris, vi har ju Åbo” fabric bags. The PUF + TOMI collection also draws on themes from Turku.“The project’s first collection is strongly influenced by Turku, being proud Turku locals our-selves we want to encourage others to do the same,” says PUF founders Hanna Pennanen and Matti Järvinen.“The collection design is both inventive and timeless, which can be one factor in its popularity.”

Turku-Design▼ The décor of Turun

Seurahuone reflects the 1920’s language of design,

with a modern twist.

The dresses and tunics of hotel staff are

designed by local designer MyOlsson.

HAVE A DESIRE TO VISIT TURKU? Book a wonderful night in Turun Seurahuone's new boutique hotel: sokoshotels.fi.

The table at Restaurant Gunnar was carved from

a 150-year-old Turku wych elm.

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* "Why go to Paris, when we have Turku" was a statement by a Swedish journalist, regarding Timo Sarpaneva's Kestilä clothing design collection. Published in the 60's, the magazine headline is alive now more than ever!

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JUST FOLLOW YOUR FEET. Initially, our plans were flex-ible, like on holiday. We were to begin by following the newly opened St Olav Waterway as long as it suited us, deviating only when hunger or tiredness necessitated. Our actual hike started on the ferry between Par-gas and Nagu. The connecting ferry, known as Ele-ktra, is powered by electricity, so the ride is silent and emission-free, just as a nature trip should be. As soon as we stepped off the bus, the calm sea breeze immediately worked its magic. When the bow hit the dock, an aching hunger immediately took hold. We grabbed coffee and sandwiches from the harbour kiosk. As we sat down at the outdoor table, we met our

the easy explorer's heaven

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first fellow hiker. Maria was from Stockholm and an enthu-siastic walker. While planning her summer vacation, she had come across the St Olav Waterway online and decided this time to walk from Turku via Åland to Stockholm.“Next year, Trondheim,” Maria called out as she waved and lifted her backpack. We wished her a good trip and admired a moment as our new acquaintance stode off into the distance.

WE WEREN'T IN A HURRY, so we let the day warm up and breakfast settle before we set off. For the first few kilometres we had to walk at the side of the main road. The traffic was busy but with a bit of teamwork we just about survived. Mo-torists generously gave a wide berth and where it was not possible because of oncoming traffic, we kindly ducked onto the verge. The convivial atmosphere was epitomised by the fact that we were twice asked if we wanted a lift. We politely refused and received a happy wave in response. Thanks and see you round! After an hour of dodging other road users, we headed off onto smaller roads. As the sounds of traffic disappeared, we once again noticed how navigating through nature aroused all sense. NATURALLY, THE LANDSCAPE PROVIDED ITS OWN STORY. Open fields surrounded by logged fences, wind-blown archi-pelago pines, the sun glittering off the bays and the clouds gently floating in blue skies were like something straight from the lyrics of Our Land.

The surrounding sounds were also inspiring. Birds were singing, the cows were mooing, a dog was barking and some-where an axe fell, splitting logs for firewood. Most surprising was the intoxicating smell of wild strawberries. It came sub-tly, with neither of us realising what it was at first, then we laughed at our shared ignorance. Hmm, it smells like straw-berries here? Of course, the entire roadside is red.

Oh how good they tasted. As did the blueberries and raspberries we found later. The importance of our sense of touch— the most important you might say because perhaps without it humanity wouldn’t have existed — became appar-ent after walking ten kilometres. As the soles of our feet be-gan heating up, it was a gentle reminder that our undemand-ing feet needed some attention. A good way to avoid blisters and abrasions is to change your shoes from time to time. So we took off our hiking sandals, slipped on our sneakers and continued on.

The well-marked St Olav's Waterway was easy to navi-gate. At crossings there are small but clear signs telling you which direction to take. However, with fewer signs on the

"W E N OT E D AS W E CO N T I N U E D, H OW

N AT U R E C A R E S S E D A L L T H E S E N S E S."

AT THE START OF SUMMER, I FOUND MYSELF BUSY AT MY DESK WRITING.WHEN ALL THE WORK WAS DONE IT WAS DIFFICULT TO REALLY CLEAR MY HEAD. LUCKILY, HELP WAS ONLY A SHORT BUS RIDE AWAY. SO, WITH THE WEATHER PROMISING WE PACKED UP A PICNIC BAG, A CHANGE OF CLOTHES AND SOME HOLIDAY READING, AND HEADED INTO THE ARCHIPELAGO FOR A FEW DAYS OF HIKING.

St Olav’s Waterway


The Archipelago Trail is an official tourist route, which you navigate either by bicycle, scooter, car or hiking. There are two routes of different lengths to choose from. Along the way, you’ll discover attractions and, of course, the authentic archipelago atmosphere. There are boat sheds, wood-fired saunas, arching bridges, ferry crossings and traditional archipelago bread. Places to stay and eat are open all year round. Read more: saaristonrengastie.fi/en

ARCHIPELAGO TRAIL

Archipelago Trail ~ 250 km Turku – Pargas – Nagu – Korpo – Houtskär – Iniö – Kustavi – Taivassalo – Askainen – Merimasku – Naantali – Turku

Short Archipelago Trail ~ 100 km Turku – Pargas – Nagu – Seili – Hanka – Rymättylä – Naantali – Turku

The coastal route is a beautiful bicycle route that runs through the National Parks of the Archipelago Sea, Teijo and Ekenäs. Along the route you will find a num-ber of must-see places such as Bengtskär lighthouse and the islands of Högsåra, Rosala and Örö, as well as the idyllic ironworks villages of Taalintehdas, Mathild-edal and Kirjakkala. If you do not own a bike, you can rent one along the way. The bike can be picked up from one location and returned to another. So you can come by car and then bike where you like. The route is approximately 200 kilometres long, with 35 kilometres of the route carried out aboard ferries.

Get to know better the route at: rannikkoreitti.fi

COASTAL ROUTE

straight sections they provide a greater test of a traveller’s faith. But all is well when you finally spot a familiar red-and-white cross marked on a roadside tree.

The countryside holds much diversity – patchwork for-ests, rolling hills, arching bridges, delicate inlets, broken beaches, tracks and trails in the right doses – something interesting all the time.

AFTER FOUR HOURS OF HIKING WE ARRIVE AT A PARISH VILLAGE. After the quiet of the forest landscapes, the bustle of Nagu is quite the happening metropolis. There seemed more people, cafés, market stalls, laughter and life than the market square in Helsinki.

We certainly had a good time. We craved a cup of cof-fee, so we sat down at a suitable terrace for a moment to watch the energy of the marina. When our strength had returned, we made the spontaneous decision to rent ca-noes for a couple of hours. The rental period of five hours was enough for a small sea adventure. We weren't kayak-ing for long but a scan of the nearby shores gave us a good feel for what the archipelago looked like from the waves.

For the first night we’d booked into Hotel Stallback-en. After a shower and rest, we marched to the restaurant hungry like a wolf.

Dinner was served on the terrace. The hot day turned into a balmy evening, with the setting sun yielding a gold-en glow from the surrounding fields. We admired a cou-ple of nearby cranes, dined long and leisurely and by ten o’clock we were already flat out in our rooms.

After breakfast, we threw on our backpacks and headed for Korpo. After leaving Nagu, we took a detour from St Olav's Waterway and continued our own path. We strolled along the side roads, ate berries from the verge, admired lungfuls of scenery, and spoke of the world drifting by.

WALKING IS A WONDERFUL TIME TO CHAT. Silent mo-ments never seem uncomfortable, so conversations are relaxed and unforced. Thoughts can mature into full sen-tences unhindered and answers can be just as thought-fully composed. Time is a gift. Conversations given only five minutes at home, on a hike are granted a five-hour exchange.

We had set out on our journey after making a pretty spontaneous decision, and we certainly weren’t the only ones on the same path. The Trail attracts more and more tourists every year, and it’s a popular area for holiday cottages. We were quite lucky that we were able to stay the night exactly where we wanted - or at least with a close neigh-bour.

As firm fans of good food, the destination for second day was obvious – we headed for the sec-ond acclaimed Restaurant Back Pocket. Sadly, Hotel Nestor was full but fortunately, only a few hundred metres away, we found a comfortable double room at Faffas B&B. The house was cosy and homely, so everything came up smelling of roses.

Back Pocket was worthy of its reputation. We had lunch at the restaurant and afterwards were then especially thankful our accommodation wasn’t further away. Even 200 metres on a full stomach was a struggle. We managed to make it and spent the rest of the day reading, snoozing and digesting lunch in the Faffas garden.

BY EVENING, OUR APPETITES HAD RETURNED. We walked again to Back Pocket and its kitchen did not let us down.

After breakfast it was time to plan our return home. We didn't want to go directly to Turku, so decided to walk to Korpo Church, and the beauty of the morning definitely looked like the best time. We sauntered less than ten kilometres in over two hours but got there in the end. We picked up a snack from the store and boarded the bus.

INTERESTED IN ST OLAV’S WATREWAY? The new pil-grimage route from Turku to Trondheim passes through the Turku Archipelago. Explore the route and choose a distance suitable for you: stolavwaterway.com

"AS F I R M FA N S O F G O O D FO O D, T H E D E ST I N AT I O N

FO R T H E S ECO N D DAY WAS O BV I O U S – W E H E A D E D

FO R T H E ACC L A I M E D R E STAU R A N T B AC K

P O C K E T."

"T H E CO U N T RYS I D E H O L D S M U C H D I V E R S I T Y – PATC H WO R K FO R E STS,

RO L L I N G H I L LS, A RC H I N G B R I D G E S, D E L I C AT E I N L E TS,

B RO K E N B E AC H E S, T R AC KS A N D T R A I LS I N T H E R I G H T

D O S E S – S OM E T H I N G I N T E R E ST I N G A L L T H E T I M E."


Rediscover your roots – in the trees!

A few million years ago, people slept in the trees. It provided all kinds of little benefits. It’s now a habit that’s making a comeback. We decided to find out why?

A TENT FLOATING IN THE AIR already sounds pretty good. There’s something exciting, new and distantly familiar about it. These tentsile tents are found along the rocky shores near Ruissalo Spa, where you can book your stay just like a hotel.

The Tentsile is stretched out between three sturdy trees. They offer many advantages but the main one is that hanging in the air allows you to sleep where normal tents are impractical. Just like on Ruissalo's rocky coasts.

Above all, hanging from the trees is a fun way to sleep. Hovering above ground like a spacecraft, you enter the tent via the zipped front door or from below via the "se-cret hatch". The rain cover is removable, allowing you to instead soak up some rays under open skies. When your sleeping buddy rolls over, so will you, so expect plenty of hilarity.

A TENTSILE IS A NEW METHOD OF SLEEPING OUTSIDE and a fresh way to enjoy those summer nights. This primitive experience feels altogether quite natural. It’s reminiscent of a hammock, a symbol of tropical relaxation that echoes the freer and more harmonious existence of our forebear-ers. So raise yourself and your spirits, and do what comes naturally – sleep in a tree.

▲ Tents are isolated from the hustle and bustle of the hotel. Sun-bathe on smooth rocks from daybreak to dusk.

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▲ Every reservation in-cludes all the spa hotel’s amenities, so there’s no need to go all in on your nature experience.

TURKU INSPIRES

BengtskärAt the Bengtskär lighthouse to the far south of the Turku Archi-pelago, you really feel insignificant, with open sea all around and the wild and untamed rocky skerries the only land. The na-tional romantic style of the early 20th century inspired the light-house architecture. The tower has six former lighthouse rooms that now accommodate visitors. Stories of shipwrecks, battles and warfare all add drama to the experience of Bengtskär. bengtskar.fi

LOCATIONS FOR THAT FAMOUS MARITIME FEELING IN TURKU’S ARCHIPELAGO.

HögsåraJust a short ferry ride from the island of Kimito, Högsåra has magical stories to tell, with Russian tsars and their entourage spending sum-mers here over a hundred years ago. Nowadays, the word Högsåra has barely left the lips before the delightful Farmor's Café is mentioned. The archipelago’s gourmet matriarch is known for lovely food and especially good cakes, where, best of all, you're allowed to cut your own slice. farmorscafe.fi

SeiliThe long history of the Island of Seili is one of the most remarkable in the Turku Archipelago. For centuries, the island served as an island to where 17th century leprosy sufferers were deported, and then later on the mentally ill. Today, Seili is home to re-searchers from the University of Turku and tourism service personnel. The latter provide a lovely restaurant and ac-commodation on Seili. Arrive by ferry from Turku, Nagu or Rymättylä. visitseili.fi

UtöThe former island of the Finnish Defence Forces is now a vacation spot. The journey to the outskirts of the archipelago takes about 4 to 5 hours from Turku. Whilst on the ferry, you can observe the changing landscape, from lush green archipelago to the rugged outer islands. At Utö, inhale deep and breathe in the infinite sea, the heavenly sky and the majesty of nature. The hotel and restau-rant in the former barracks also mean you eat well and rest in comfort. visituto.fi

ÖröAwaiting travellers to Örö in the outer archipelago is an impressive package of natural beauty and history of military defence. In addition to the historic guns and barracks, the fortified island, formerly of the armed forces, enjoys abundant heather meadows and rare plants, from the Western Pasque-flower to Sea Kale. Furthermore, Örö has a couple of nice restaurants and various accommodation options in the renovated old barracks.visitkemiönsaari.fi

▲ Other types of places to stay are close by, including a barbecue cabin with lovely sea views.

Thousands of island stories

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READ MORE AND BOOK A NIGHT in Ruissalo Spa’s hanging tents. If you prefer to be independent, the spa also offers comfortable hotel rooms. ruissalospa.fi


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A Head to the national landscape of the River Aura or admire the famous Turku Archipelago.

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TURKU AND STOCKHOLM OFFER GREAT ACTIVITIES FOR FAMILIES THROUGHOUT THE YEAR. TRAVEL FROM ONE ADVENTURE TO ANOTHER IN COMFORT ABOARD THE VIKING LINE SHIPS.

EVEN THE CRUISE PROVIDES KIDS WITH AN UNFORGETTABLE ADVENTURE!

From side to side across the sea

TURKU

STOCKHOLM

Aboard Viking Line,

the journey between

Turku and Stockholm is

child’s play - literally. The ships

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and a diverse programme

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so you’ll never

be bored!

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MOOMINWORLD: On Kailo Island in Naantali, meet all of Tove Jansson's beloved Moomin characters. Plenty of hugs all round as well as a host of other entertaining activities. moominworld.fi

LUOSTARINMÄKI HANDICRAFTS MUSEUM:Time-travel into the 1800’s at Luos-tarinmäki hill, which escaped the rav-ages of Turku’s great fire, and explore the crafts of artisans from the past.turku.fi/en/handicraftsmuseum

TURKU CASTLE: During Turku Castle’s Little Knights tours, search for treas-ures and listen to exciting tales from centuries ago. Best of all, at the end of the tour you will receive your own knighthood! turku.fi/en/turkucastle

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JUNIBACKEN: Located on Djurgården Island, Junibacken is a cultural experience dedicated to Astrid Lind-gren's fairy-tale characters. Take the fairytale train and dive into a world of imagination. junibacken.se

SKANSEN: At the world’s oldest outdoor museum, explore the history of Sweden through houses and farm-steads. You can have fun trying old fashioned games as well as say hi to the animals. skansen.se

THE ROYAL PALACE: The Royal Palace in Sweden is a fun way to see and and experience history. It evens includes a fun animal safari.kungligaslotten.se

STEER TOWARD THE HORIZON AND BOOK YOUR ENTERTAINING ADVENTURE HERE: vikingline.fi

6XFrom Turku to the water

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S/S UkkopekkaThe most nostalgic way to sail to the Airisto from Turku is aboard the 80-year-old steamboat Ukkopekka. In summer, Ukkopekka's morning shift steams between Turku and Naantali, and in the evenings it cruis-es from Turku to the islet of Loistokari. The evening soiree is crowned with dancing on the pier and an archipelago dinner. ukkopekka.fi

Föli WaterbusesTurku is an archipelago city, which means our public transport also operates on the water. With a Föli bus ticket you can take a waterbus for an adventure to Ruissalo and Pikisaari. There are two vessels on the route, M/S Ruissalo and M/S Jaarli. foli.fi

River Aura Guide Centre Located next to Halistenkoski, there is the adorable summer café Pa-dolla, offering much more than freshly made buns. Here, you can rent a SUP-board or even a canoe and a kayak for a paddling trip along the River Aura. aurajoki.net

M/S LilyThe red and white of M/S Lily is a familiar sight on the River Aura in summer, transporting passengers from Turku to the recreational island of Vepsä. The voyage to Vepsä is so stunning, be sure to head out on deck to enjoy the sun and admire the summer villas on the islands as you glide by.rosita.fi

Buster Rent Are you in search of a bit more speed? The motorboat ride allows you to see Turku’s archipelago in a whole new way, whether as a day trip or for an entire weekend of boating. With Buster Rent, you can order a boat directly on the water.vuokraa.buster.fi/en

M/S Rudolfina Cruise aboard M/S Rudolfina and float past Ruissalo's lace villas and Naantali's Old Town. In addition to delicious archipelago landscapes, the diverse archipelago buffet is just as delightful.rudolfina.fi


watch Moomin animations and read Moomin books just like in Finland."It's easy to fall in love and identify with the characters and their stories," Eri says. But there isn’t just one reason explaining this Moomin phenomenon because everyone

experiences the Moomins in their own way and identifies with them differently.

Why the Moomins, specifically?

I want to know more, so Eri helps introduce me to a young couple. Nanase and Ryoma are both in Moominworld for the first time - and on their honeymoon would you believe!

Nanase is a fan of both the Moomins and Tove Jansson but Ryoma, on the other hand, doesn’t share the same fondness. However, the adoring husband wanted to please his new wife, so Ryoma agreed to Finland as their honey-moon destination. Now that's true love!

Nanase says she read the Moomin books and really liked them. In addition to the charac-ters, she delighted in Tove Jansson's illustrations of the nature, the sky and the forest. So the inspiration for this trip originated with the Moomin books. I was learning more all the time.

My next interviewees are two lovely sisters, Kimiko and Akiko. They are also visiting Moominworld for the first time. Do they like it?

“Yes, very much,” both reply, nodding enthusiastically.Moomins are very familiar to the sisters. Akiko has been reading the Moomin books to her

own children and she has many friends who also like the Moomins. They excitedly list their favourite characters, such as Snufkin and Moominmamma.

Kimiko and Akiko, however, find much more in the books. They admire the characters and their wisdom but also the deeper message between the lines, Tove Jansson’s own perspective and way of looking at the world.

Superwoman Tove

You can't talk about the Moomins without Tove Jansson or Tove Jansson without the Moom-ins. Every Japanese person I talked to during the day brought up Tove. She seems to be a source of inspiration and admiration for all ages. Many state how Tove is a big deal in Japan.

“Many people know her and her work and associate her with the Moomins,” says Eri.I thought Moomin fanatics in Japan were more attracted by the cute appearance of the

Moomins but I was wrong. I wonder if, somehow, Moominworld is seen as a way to immerse themselves in Tove's world, reflecting the values that are important to the Japanese.

Family, tolerance and equality are things that unite the Finns, the Japanese and the Moom-ins. And these are certainly values you’ll find in Moominworld.

” I T ’S E ASY TO FO RG E T T H AT MO OM I N WO R L D AT T R AC TS V I S I TO R S F ROM TO K YO AS W E L L AS TA M P E R E.”

This July morning in Naantali is stiflingly hot. However, the hot temperatures don’t seem to dissuade people from going, as guests swarm around the gates of Moominworld. As I wait, I scan the throngs of families around and spot a small group of Japanese tourists.

It’s easy to forget that Moominworld attracts visitors from Tokyo as well as Tampere. The Moomins aren’t just bedtime stories for Finnish children but rather a global phenom-enon that reaches across generations.

Genuine fans

I follow curiously this Japanese group towards the Moomin House and spot their many Moomin-themed items: backpacks, T-shirts, key rings. It’s as if everyone was dressed for a special fan convention. Well, they were.

I want to find out what the Moomins mean to the Japanese. I approach the group’s in-terpreter, Eri Sanoa, who kindly promises to help.

Eri enlightens me, explaining how the Japanese know the Moomins well. In Japan, they

MOOMINWORLD IS A PILGRIMAGE DESTINATION FOR FANS OF TOVE JANSSON, DRAWING ADMIRATION FROM AROUND THE WORLD. BUT WHAT BREEDS THIS WORLDWIDE POPULARITY AND WHAT DO THE MOOMINS MEAN FOR FANS OF VARIOUS AGES? I DECIDED TO FIND OUT.

– the phenomenonMOOMINS

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"TOV E J A N S S O N I S A B I G D E A L I N J A PA N."

MORE MOOMIN VALUES AND THE WAY TO THE TICKET OFFICE: moominworld.fi


Here are 10 children's favourites à la Turku, Finland.

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Families love being in Turku because Turku is made for kids! Whether investigating the world outdoors, getting wet or working up a sweat, the city is full of exciting activities for the little treasures.

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10XPlaces to go with kids

Forum Marinum Maritime MuseumAt Forum Marinum, kids have a dedicated area to explore the mysteries of seafaring through play. The centrepiece of the exhibition is a gallant adventure ship, where you can investi-gate constellations and nautical charts, and peek inside the captain's quarters. forum-marinum.fi

Botanical GardenAt the centre of this tropical oasis, you almost forget you’re in Finland. The Botanical Gardens of the University of Turku offer a diversity of wonders and plenty to explore, from the carp pond to the winter garden. sites.utu.fi/kasvitieteellinen-puutarha

KaarinaWith its beaches, nature and array of activities, Kaarina is hugely attractive to families. Topping the recommendations are Kaarina’s hiking trails as well as the medieval ruins of Kuusisto’s Bishop’s Castle - both are fascinating destinations for summer excursions.visitkaarina.fi

Holiday Club CaribiaAt Caribia spa hotel, priorities are clear: adults relax while children splash around to their heart’s content. Caribia’s pool complex, with its slides and pirate ship, is every kid’s dream, so there’s no chance of being bored. holidayclubresorts.com

FunicularThe freshest newcomer to Turku’s transport system is the Funicular, transporting groups up Kakolanmäki hill and back. In addition to the scenery, you can also experience Finland's most notorious former prison, as well as other amusements. The ride is free!turku.fi/en/funicular

SuperParkSuperPark is Caribia’s super indoor activity park. Under the same roof, you can jump, play, climb and run around as much as you like. Energy burns fast scampering around the park!superpark.fi

FlowparkLooking for new heights and fun challenges? At the Flowpark adventure park you can balance on a tightrope, clamber over obstacles and swing like Tarzan on a zip line. The adventure trails are built in the trees (don't worry, you won't get hurt!) and are colour coded according to difficulty. flowpark.fi

JukuParkThe JukuPark water park's pirate pool paradise is a must for all the little water monsters in summer. Going between the pool, the slides and the bouncy castle is a route they won’t stop running until it gets dark.jukupark.fi

Adventure Park Commonly known as ‘Seikkis’, it’s a place familiar to every Turku local. In the middle of the verdant Kupittaa Park, Seikkis is a perfect paradise to romp and play all year round. The entry fee is a staggering €0, so there’s room for an ice cream whilst you’re there!turku.fi/seikkailupuisto

Samppalinna Outdoor Swimming StadiumThe Samppalinna Outdoor Swimming Stadium provides a cheap and cheerful place to chill out during summer. There’s plenty of room to splash around in the large pool and the div-ing tower rises invitingly towards the sky. There’s also a pool for tots and toddlers. turku.fi/kulttuuri-ja-liikunta


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PUPPET THEATRE, GRAFFITI, PERFORMANCES AND MODERN, EXPERIMENTAL MUSIC. THESE ARE ALL PART OF TURKU’S MODERN UNDERGROUND SCENE. THE LEGENDARY PHENOMENON TOOK ROOT IN TURKU IN THE 1960S AND LOOKS FAR FROM REACHING ITS PEAK, WITH NEW FORMS FILLING THE CITY.

"THE UNDERGROUND IS DEAD – I WILL NOT WEEP." This is how the late writer and poet Jarkko Laine proclaimed the fate of the underground in 1970.

Rubbish! Nowhere has it died or come to an end! It continues to thrive in clubs, at poetry and literature events, through experimental art happenings, perfor-mances and circus, as well as in small festivals. And, of course, in the bowls of the earth where no one has thought to look. So, where did the underground idea come from?

Turku’s underground, also known as ‘U’, was the subject for Matti Komulainen and Petri Leppänen’s investigative book ‘U Rises from the West’ (Sammakko 2009), which deals specifically with the history of the underground from a Turku perspective.

It was quite the phenomenon in Turku. Leading fig-ures of U’s early incarnations include familiar names, such as Jarkko Laine, the poet Markku Into and the still active cultural personality, M.A. Numminen. Also, artist Harro Koskinen is rightly included in this group.

For Leppänen, U exposed the core of local classics.“There’s Markku Into's novels U and Tuonela Rock,

Jarkko Laine's early novels Haamumaili and Kuin Ruumissaatto, from Turku Book Café you’ll find a repro-duction of Aamurusko Magazine as well as the album Underground-Rock from the band Suomen Talvisota 1939-1940,” lists Leppänen.

"For me, these were some of the cornerstones, which inspired the recent multi-artistic burgeoning of our band the Turku Romantic Movement."

Leppänen explains that he also experienced being a small part of the U continuum, when Turku Romantic

Underground, or ‘U’ as it was known in Turku, was a phenomenon of the late 1960s. It was character-ised by exploring something new and implementing alternative activities. U was part of an international movement with strong roots in the United States. The 1960s were of course a time when civic movements called countercultures gained in strength, with the aim of reforming and questioning the prevailing conservative cultural perceptions.

For the adventurous youth of Turku, the city was an attractive place for U to get off to a good start. Hav-ing already arranged Finland's first, scandalous rock concert, Turku was also in close proximity to Sweden, making it easy for influences to arrive from Stock-holm. It also held Finland's first rock festival, organ-ised in the voluntary spirit of U. Nowadays, that festi-val has gone mainstream, and its name is Ruisrock.

Sometimes, the spirit of reform meant that bound-aries were pushed. The underground movement in-cluded rebellion and outrageous art.

In the past, for example, Harro Koskinen's Sikames-sias (Pig Messiah) was seen as sacrilegious. Today people no longer protest art in the same way," says Leppänen.

“Nowadays, for example in punk circles, there’s a strong underground feel. No rules, everyone can participate,” Leppänen remarks.

The essence of the underground has always been to challenge, to do things of significance and to create something new. For this, Turku still provides the best platform.

UndergroundTURKU

1 Jarkko Laine

2 Markku Into's U-Novel

3 M. A. Numminen

UNDERGROUND MEANS NEW

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A LWAYS B E E N TO C H A L L E N G E, TO D O

T H I N G S O F S I G N I F I C A N C E A N D TO C R E AT E

S OM E T H I N G N E W.


TAFF-FESTIVAL | TAFF is the youngest and most charming ani-mated film festival in Finland. Its international offering includes both short and long animated films, hosted at the Manila Cultural Factory in August. taff.fi

VIDEOART-FESTIVAL | The VideoArt Festival, or VAFT, is an inter-national video art festival held in May every year, which can be seen in different places across the city. videoartfestivalturku.com

AURA OF PUPPETS | Aura of Puppets is a network of puppet theatre professionals, produc-ing modern puppet theatre re-nowned in Finland and abroad. The Turku International Puppetry Festival, also known as TIP-Fest, presents the cream of interna-tional puppetry.auraofpuppets.com

THE BOOK HOUSE ASSOCIATION | As its name suggests, the Book House (Kirjan Talo) is a home of books in central Turku. It op-erates as an office, events venue, classroom, a centre for leading workshops and for networking throughout the year.kirjantalo.org

POETRY WEEK FESTIVAL | Poetry Week provides an opportunity for budding poets to perform. Engage with the phe-nomena through poetry hosted in pubs and cafés. vsrunoviikko.net

NEW PERFORMANCE FESTIVAL | New Performance Turku Festival is an inter-national performance and performing arts festival that takes place every Oc-

tober in different parts of Turku. newperformance.fi

HIMERA – FESTIVAL OF EXPERIMENTAL MUSIC | Himera in October brings music from the margins: from experiential and experimental music, to free improvisation, noise music, free jazz, spontaneous pop and folk music - somewhere in the galler-ies, clubs, cellars and bars you’ll hear it all.himera.fi

U today: EHKÄ-PRODUCTIONS AND KUTOMO MODERN ART | The art-ist-driven Ehkä-Productions co-produces new dance and per-forming art, works from artist groups and collectives, projects and visiting productions. Ehkä runs the Kutomo contemporary art space in Turku, hosting throughout the year performanc-es, events, dance classes and workshops for different target groups.ehka.net

WHAT EVER WORKS | What Ever Works is an urban contempo-rary music festival held in spring, an arena for new and diverse art. The broad-minded festival has been held since 2013.facebook.com/whateverworksfestival

MANILLA CULTURAL FACTORY AND MANIFEST FACTORY FESTIVAL | Manilla is a fertile factory for culture, housing three theatres, artists, photography studios, architectural firms and other small businesses in the creative industries. Held in the art factory in September, the Manifest concept is al-ready a multi-artistic event.manillantehdas.fi

▼ Raekallio Corp. "Muisti-kuvia - Recollections"

Movement were accompanied by M.A. Numminen and Markku Into at the recent Down By The Laituri.

Since Into's death, there to has been a severe melancholy. But underground has far from disappeared.

“It’s unlikely to blossom as a multi-disciplinary move-ment like in the 1960s. Music, theatre, literature always pro-duce a counterculture to the mainstream, and that's what U was and still is,” Leppänen states.

Explore Turku

Today there is plenty to find in Turku. Still yet to become mainstream, organised art is available, from short anima-tions to puppetry, performances to poetry and modern, ex-perimental music.

You can also discover underground-inspired unorganised art in cafés and clubs, so it's always worth exploring what's going on in the city.

Usually, there are all kinds of impromptu happenings and events connected with topical festivals: poetry recitals on top of a club table, or an energetic performance in the middle of town.

The casually-formed crack counter-culture team brought mul-ti-dimensional culture, particular in Turku and Helsinki in the mid-1960s. Characteristic of Turku’s scene were western in-fluences, especially American, such as beat and hippie move-ments, rock music, comics, performances and experimental poetry. The best known representation of Turku U was the rock and performance group Suomen Talvisota 1939-1940, with its album Underground-Rock, as well as the Aamurusko maga-zine. Also, the radio programme Going Underground, broad-cast nationally via YLE, was actually produced by the group.

The Underground Anthology (1970) edited by Jarkko Laine ex-plored the background and concepts of the movement. Numer-ous other similar publications provided provocative content in the spirit of beat and hippie culture.

Turku’s underground did start to fade but it left behind an impres-sive and influential impact, as well as a new kind of independent attitude.

The famous happenings, bands and festivals, formed from the U-spirit, are now household concepts:• Ruisrock • Pasi & Mysiini band• Rap group Pääkköset • Turku Poetry Movement• Koneisto Festival • Down By The Laituri/DBTL

NEW PHENOMENONS AND INTERNATIONAL FESTIVALS

ALSO, DON’T FORGET THESE!

Events in Turku:KESÄRAUHA | This trendy urban indie and alternative music festival made a huge hit in the summer of 2019 - and is sure to do so again in this summer. kesarauha.fi

JAZZ CITY TURKU | Jazz City Turku offers a sinful ar-ray of captivating jazz concerts throughout the year, all over Turku. jazzcityturku.fi

FOOD & ART FESTIVAL | Indulgent taste sensations from the hands of top chefs and bartenders, alongside an enthralling programme of art.foodandart.fi

VEGÅNIA | This vegan street food festival gathers togeth-er stalls of venders offering attractive vegan delicacies. vegania.fi

NEW POTATO FESTIVAL | At this merry festival, Turku locals celebrate Finland’s early potatoes by tucking in to potato dishes with the help of a fun programme of entertainment. neitsytperunafestivaali.fi

TURKU FOOD & WINE FESTIVAL | That’s right, this is a festival where you’ll eat and drink very well, just as the name suggests.turkufoodandwinefestival.com

KONSTRUNDAN | An art event where artists open their studios and work premises for the public to admire.konstrundan.fi

MEDIEVAL MARKETS | Amidst the hustle and bustle of the medieval market, you’re sure to feel as though you’ve travelled in time to the heart of medieval Turku.keskiaikaisetmarkkinat.fi

TURKU CASTLE TOURNAMENT | In summer, the park of Turku Castle transforms into an historic battlefield, where armoured knights joust and compete in martial combat.tournament.fi

PAAVO NURMI FESTIVAL & MARATHON | A festival dedicated to Turku's own running god and a running event that brings the joy of exercise to all.paavonurmimarathon.fi

THE HEIRS OF TURKU’S UNDERGROUND

© Hertta Kiiski

photo Lauri Lundahl


Aside from those presented here, *you’ll find other museums and galleries in Turku.

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Sibelius MuseumThe Sibelius Museum is a fascinating peek into the life and work of the Finnish composer and Finnish musical culture. The collection of instruments on display includes thousands of examples from Finland and around the world. Piispankatu 17

Turku Biological MuseumThe Biological Museum exudes a spirit of exploration. There are 13 different dioramas, or built natural landscapes, that introduce you to the fauna and flora of Finland. Neitsytpolku 1

Turku Art MuseumThe Turku Art Museum, proudly rising from the top of Puo-lalanmäki hill, already makes a lasting impression with its appearance. Inside you will find Finnish national treasures alongside high-quality temporary exhibitions. Aurakatu 26

Luostarinmäki Handicrafts MuseumThe Luostarinmäki area of wooden houses that survived Turku’s great fire of 1827 is a small piece of history in central Turku. The original houses showcase the life of artisans from the 18th and 19th centuries. Vartiovuorenkatu 2

Turku CastleTurku Castle is perhaps the most iconic of Turku's attractions. The 700-year-old stone castle conceals engrossing stories about the history of Turku and Finland as whole. Linnankatu 80

Ett HemFormer bourgeois home of Alfred Jacobson, a businessman from Turku, and his wife Hélène. The splendid cultural home museum is adorned with décor and art from the late 19th and 20th centuries. Piispankatu 14

Wäinö Aaltonen MuseumThe Wäinö Aaltonen Museum houses temporary exhibitions of contemporary art, workshops as well as events. Also on display are Aaltonen's own works such as drawings, graphic art and sketches. Itäinen Rantakatu 38

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MAGNIFICENT MUSEUMS:* Check out everything and more at: kissmyturku.com

TANTALISING GALLERIES:

Kunsthalle TurkuManaged cooperatively by the Turku Artists' Association and the Photography Centre Peri, the art centre offers total visual grandeur. In the lobby, you’ll also find the Turku Art Loan Centre, where you can buy and rent the artists’ works. Vanha Suurtori 5

TitanikStep into the city's oldest contemporary art space, Titanik! There always seems to be some stunning and boldly original exhibitions. Events complementing the exhibitions are held all the time - free ones, of course.Itäinen Rantakatu 8

Gallery JoellaWhenever passing Gallery Joella, the window display of graphic art is just something you have to stop to admire. This is what art is all about, with hundreds of pieces for sale from dozens of different artists.Läntinen Rantakatu 21

Makasiini ContemporaryThe historic Governor's Magazine by the cathedral hides one of Turku's most interesting art galleries. Inspirational exhibitions showcase the works of impressive domestic and international artists.Tuomiokirkonkatu 6

Aboa Vetus & Ars NovaAboa Vetus & Ars Nova is an experiential museum of arche-ology and contemporary art. Under the same roof you can explore the ruins of medieval Turku as well as take a tour of the impressive art exhibitions. Itäinen Rantakatu 4–6

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HISTORY, MUSEUMS AND GALLERIES1 Aboa Vetus & Ars Nova2 Pharmacy Museum & Qwensel House3 Biological Museum4 Ett Hem5 Forum Marinum 6 Luostarinmäki Handicrafts Museum7 Sibelius Museum8 Turku Art Museum 9 Wäinö Aaltonen Museum10 Makasiini Contemporary11 Galleria Joella12 Titanik13 Kunsthalle Turku

ON THE WATER14 M/S Lily15 S/S Ukkopekka16 M/S Rudolfina17 Låna Picnic Boats 18 Buster Rent 19 Föri 20 Föli Waterbus21 Tallink Silja22 Viking Line GETTING AROUND23 Föli Transport Service Office 24 Avis Car Rental25 Turku Bus Station26 Turku Main Railway Station27 Kupittaa Railway Station

FUN FOR KIDS 28 Adventure Park 29 SuperPark 30 Samppalinna Outdoor Swimming Stadium31 JukuPark32 Flowpark

THEATRE AND ENTERTAINMENT33 Linnateatteri Theatre 34 Samppalinna Summer Theatre 35 Dance Theatre ERI 36 TEHDAS Theatre 37 Turku City Theatre 38 Åbo Svenska Teater 39 Turku Open-Air Theatre 40 Turku Youth Theatre41 Aura of Puppets42 Finnkino Cinema43 Logomo MUSIC AND CULTURE44 The Book House45 Turku Concert Hall 46 Turku Philharmonic Orchestra47 Regional Dance Centre of Western Finland48 AB Dance Company

TOP ATTRACTIONS49 Turku Castle50 Old Great Square51 Turku City Library

52 Paavo Nurmi Stadium53 Turku Cathedral54 St Michael’s Church55 Turku Market Square56 Turku Market Hall 57 Vähätori Square58 Funicular

CAFES, RESTAURANTS AND NIGHTCLUBS59 Tiirikkala Cafe and Restaurant 60 Brahen Kellari 61 Café Art 62 Café Brahe63 di Trevi 64 E. Ekblom 65 Grill it! Marina 66 Gustavo 67 Hus Lindman 68 Kaskis 69 Ludu 70 M Kitchen & Cafe71 Brewery Restaurant Koulu 72 Piece of Cake – MBakery Café 73 Pinella 74 Sergio’s75 Smör76 Tårget 77 Vaakahuone Pavillion78 Viking Restaurant Harald79 Roster80 Fontana81 Walo Rooftop Bar82 Hesburger

83 Gunnar Eatery & Bar84 Bassi85 Hügge86 Nooa87 Kakolanruusu88 Panini89 Göran

SHOPPING90 Hansa Shopping Centre91 Sokos Wiklund92 Midas Goldsmiths 93 KUI Design94 PUF Design Market

ACCOMMODATION AND SPAS95 Centro Hotel 96 Holiday Club Caribia97 Solo Sokos Hotel Turun Seurahuone98 Hotel Scandic Julia99 Hotel Scandic Plaza100 Hotel Scandic Atrium101 Hotel Seaport102 Radisson Blu Marina Palace Hotel103 Original Sokos Hotel Wiklund104 Ruissalo Spa Hotel105 Naantali Spa Hotel

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Turku – A compact yet versatile city

Turku is a compact city that is easy to manage. Everything you need is conveniently close by and distances

are best covered either on foot or by bicycle. Delightfully simple and yet also great for the environment.

WANT TO EXPLORE TURKU ON FOOT? Ooo – yes please! The Visit Turku family of Walking Tour products offer the opportunity to experience Turku from many different angles. Choose a theme that interests you, get your walking shoes on and broaden your knowledge of Turku. A charmingly engaging idea for both visitors and locals.

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NB! There are a limited number of places for tours. Buy tickets in advance from Visit Turku's online shop or at the Tourist Infor-mation Centre to be sure of a seat.

Are your feet starting to twitch with curiosity? Explore all the themed Walking Tours at ▶ visitturku.fi

FOOD WALK

Calling all gastronomists – grab yourself a Food Walk card and venture forth on Turku's most delicious walking trail! Forks at the ready as you taste the best restaurants in town. Choose the most fascinating five restaurants from the list of ten, walk, eat and enjoy.

RIVERSIDE WALK

This great mini-tour goes right to the heart of Turku. A guided walking tour taking you along the River Aura shores, adored by every fan of Turku, feasting on urban art, historic buildings and cultural sites along the way.

WALK & SEA

After first following the River Aura along its shores, hop on a waterbus to the Island of Ruissalo, providing a great overall picture of the true nature of Turku. Enjoyed alongside the stories from a Visit Turku guide.

Buy hotel and other travel packages online: www.visitturku.fi/en/shop-online

Tourist InformationAurakatu 2, 20100 Turku (Spring 2020: Aurakatu 8) Tel: +358 (0)2 2627 444 | [email protected] | visitturku.tv See opening hours: www.visitturku.fi

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TURKU'S ARCHIPELAGO IS THE LARGEST IN THE WORLD AND MANY ALSO SAY MOST BEAUTIFUL. BOOK YOUR VISIT AND YOU’LL SOON UNDERSTAND WHY.

40,000 islands and islets – you can’t go wrong.

The Turku Archipelago is bordered to the east by Turku, to the west by the Åland Islands, in the south by the Bengtskär lighthouse and in the north by the Bothnian Sea. In its entirety, it includes about 40,000 islands and islets, making it the most numerous in the world. It is also a world-class wildlife destination, where the majestic Sea Eagle is just one example of the fauna on display. The bird of prey was endan-gered more than a decade ago but now the archipelago’s Sea Eagle population numbers in the hundreds.

In this brochure you'll find many ways to reach the Turku Archipelago. More destinations, connections, tips and ideas at: kissmyturku.com

TURKU ARCHIPELAGO

2020 - Visit Turku

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