Classification of seam, sewing method and use

Classification of seam, sewing method and use

Prepared By:

Md. Belal Uddin

ID: 101011338

Semester: 3rd

Batch: 14th

SMUCT

TABLE OF CONTENTS

Topic Name: Page:

Super Impose Seam 2

French seam 3

Lapped Seam 4

Welted seam 5

Lap felled seam 6

Piped Seam 7

Piping Seam 8

Box Pleat 9

Inverted Pleat 10

Pin Tucks 11

V-Shape neck line 12

Gather 13

Darts 14

Patch pocket 15

U-Shaped Pocket 16

Sleeve Placket 17

Bound seam 18

Coin pocket 19

Zipper Attachment 20

Edge Matching 21

Edge finishing (over Lock) 22

Jetted pocket 23

Continuous Stripe Opening 24

Front Fly Zipper 25

“U” Shape neck line 26

Pant Front Pocket 27

2

Super Impose Seam

A B Super Impose Seam

Seam Definition:

This is a seam performed by placing one fabric over another and sewing along the

edges.

Equipments & Materials used to make Super Imposed Seam:

Pattern Machine Sewing Fabric Fabric: 2

PIC

Single Needle

Machine

Needle Size: 16

Stitch Range: 30

Stitch per inch: 16

Sewing Thread:

Cotton

Type: Cotton

Color: Dark red

Working Process:

These following steps are taken to make Super Imposed Seam-

Cut two pieces of fabric according A & B.

Join two fabrics with back tack leaving 1 cm gap.

Uses:

Collar/Cuff sewing.

Collar band attach sewing & topstitching.

Side seam and sleeve attach with safety-stitches.

3

French seam

A B French seam

Seam Definition: Place one fabric over the other. Perform sewing over one edge. Turn them and

make top stitch over the edge.

Equipments & Materials used to make French Seam:

Pattern Machine Sewing Fabric Fabric: 2

PIC

Single Needle

Machine

Needle Size: 16

Stitch Range: 30

Stitch per inch: 16

Sewing Thread:

Cotton

Type: Cotton

Color: Dark

red

Working Process:

These following steps are taken to make French e seam.

Cut two pieces of fabric according A & B.

Join two fabrics with back tack leaving 0.5 cm gap.

Then the fabric is turned and a top stitch is given around the edges leaving 1

cm gap.

Uses:

Collar top stitching

Cuff top stitching.

Shirt yoke top stitching.

4

Lapped Seam

A B Lapped Seam

Seam Definition: This seam is formed by joining two pieces of fabrics together when they partially

overlap each other.

Equipments & Materials used to make Lapped Seam:

Pattern Machine Sewing Fabric Fabric: 2 PIC Single Needle

Machine

Needle Size: 16

Stitch Range: 30

Stitch per inch: 16

Sewing Thread:

Cotton

Type: Cotton

Color: Dark

red

Working Process:

These following steps are taken to make Super Imposed Seam-

Cut two pieces of fabric according A & B.

Join together and overlap each other.

Uses:

Attaching elastic lace

Flat knit elastics to waist.

Leg opening of briefs.

5

Welted seam

A B Welted seam

Seam Definition: This seam is formed by joining two pieces of fabrics together when they partially

overlap each other.

Equipments & Materials used to make French seam:

Pattern Machine Sewing Fabric Fabric: 2 PIC Single Needle

Machine

Needle Size: 16

Stitch Range: 30

Stitch per inch: 16

Sewing Thread:

Cotton

Type: Cotton

Color: Dark

red

Working Process:

Joined two pieces of fabric by overlapping double supper imposed Seam.

Uses

Woven garments.

6

Lap felled seam

A B Lap felled Seam

Seam Definition:

To fabrics overlapped with each other by stitch.

Equipment & Materials:

Pattern Machine Sewing Fabric Fabric: 2 PIC Single Needle

Machine

Needle Size: 16

Stitch Range: 30

Stitch per inch: 16

Sewing Thread:

Cotton

Type: Cotton

Color: Dark red

Steps Followed:

First Work: Taken two fabrics.

Second Work: Overlapped fabric to each other.

Third work: In this overlapped fabrics two top stitch like Figure C.

Uses:

Shirt, Pant

7

Piped Seam

A B C Piped Seam

Seam Definition:

It is a classification of super imposed seam that form pipe like construction. Thus

comes the name Piped seam.

Equipment & Materials used to make Piped Seam:

Pattern Machine Sewing Fabric Fabric: 3

PIC

Single Needle

Machine

Needle Size: 16

Stitch Range: 30

Stitch per inch: 16

Sewing Thread:

Cotton

Type: Cotton

Color: Dark

red

Working process:

These following steps are taken to make Piped Seam

Fold fabric C in two.

Place A B and fold C in between.

Make sewing along the edge.

Make a fold.

Uses:

As a decorative edge to collars, cuffs, pockets or faced neck lines.

Between the bodies and skirts at waist lines of dresses.

To outline openings and hems

For tailored button holes

8

Piping Seam

A B C Piping Seam

Seam definition:

This is a seam performed by placing one fabric over another and sewing along the

edges.

Equipments & Materials used to make Piping:

Working process:

These following steps are taken to make Piping –

Cut two pieces of fabric according A & B

Cut a piece fabric direction of diagonal.

Join the small part and fold with super imposed seam.

Uses:

As a decorative edge to collars, cuffs, pockets or faced neck lines.

Pattern Machine Sewing Fabric Fabric: 2

PIC

Single Needle

Machine

Needle Size: 16

Stitch Range: 30

Stitch per inch:

16

Sewing Thread:

Cotton

Type: Cotton

Color: Dark red

9

Between the bodies and skirts at waist lines of dresses.

To outline openings and hems.

For tailored button holes

Box Pleat

A B Box Pleat

Seam Definition:

It is a fold taking the shape of a box.

Equipments & Materials used to make Box Pleat:

Pattern Machine Sewing Fabric Fabric: 2

PIC

Single Needle

Machine

Needle Size: 16

Stitch Range: 30

Stitch per inch:

16

Sewing Thread:

Cotton

Type: Cotton

Color: Red

Working process:

These following steps are taken to make Piped Seam

Fold fabric steps are taken to make Box Pleat –

Make the box shape and attach the fabric B

Turn the fabric and sewing with top stitch.

Uses:

To make fashionable flair skirts.

10

Easy wearable dresses

Pocket, Shirt back.

Inverted Pleat

A B Inverted Pleat

Seam Definition:

It is a back fold taking the shape of a box.

Equipments & Materials used to make Invert pleat:

Pattern Machine Sewing Fabric Fabric: 2

PIC

Single Needle

Machine

Needle Size: 16

Stitch Range: 30

Stitch per inch:

16

Sewing Thread:

Cotton

Type: Cotton

Color: Red

Working process:

These following steps are taken to make Invert pleat –

It is the opposite construction of Box pleat.

Fold the fabric according to A and sewing half inch leaving the inch gap

from the edge

Make the box shape (set it on back) and attach the fabric B.

Turn the fabric and sewing with top stitch.

Uses:

To make fashionable flair skirts.

11

Easy wearable dresses.

Pocket, Shirt back.

Pin Tucks

A Pin Tucks

Seam Definition:

This pleat is format by folding the fabric according to a particular distance with the

Super Imposed Seam.

Equipments & Materials used to make Pin Tack:

Pattern Machine Sewing Fabric Fabric: 2

PIC

Single Needle

Machine

Needle Size: 16

Stitch Range: 30

Stitch per inch:

16

Sewing Thread:

Cotton

Type: Cotton

Color: Red

Working process:

These following steps are taken to make Pin tack -

Fold the fabric according to a leaving 1 inch distance after one another.

Sewing with Super Imposed Seam on the folding base.

Uses:

Sports wear

Women’s wear.

12

V-Shape neck line

A V-nick Facing Facing with Fabric

Equipments & Materials used to make Pin Tack:

Pattern Machine Sewing Fabric Fabric: 2

PIC

Single Needle

Machine

Needle Size: 16

Stitch Range: 30

Stitch per inch:

16

Sewing

Thread: Cotton

Type: Cotton

Color: Red

Steps Followed: First Work: Taken two fabrics.

Second Work: We have to fabric frays, out 4 inch of the inter facing at the

outside edge, turn upper fabric back & sewing.

Uses:

Collar, Children dress.

13

Gather

2 Pieces Fabric Gather

Seam Definition:

Gathering means folds made in fabrics.

Equipments & Materials used to make Gather:

Pattern Machine Sewing Fabric Fabric: 2

PIC

Single Needle

Machine

Needle Size: 16

Stitch Range: 30

Stitch per inch:

16

Sewing Thread:

Cotton

Type: Cotton

Color: Red

Working process:

These following steps are taken to make Gather -Sewing a loose stitch

according to A and gather them.

Attaching the fabric according to B.

Turn it and sewing a top stitch.

User:

Mainly use in women’s wear.

14

Darts

Seam Definition:

This is simple Super Imposed seam.

Equipments & Materials used to make Dart:

Pattern Machine Sewing Fabric Fabric: 1

PIC

Single Needle

Machine

Needle Size: 16

Stitch Range: 30

Stitch per inch:

16

Sewing Thread:

Cotton

Type: Cotton

Color: Red

Working process:

These following steps are taken to make Dart-

Measure the form draws the line.

Fold the fabric.

Sewing with Super Imposed Seam.

Uses:

Mainly use in skirts, tops, pants.

15

Patch pocket

Equipment & Materials:

Pattern Machine Sewing Fabric Fabric: 2

PIC

Single Needle

Machine

Needle Size: 16

Stitch Range: 30

Stitch per inch:

16

Sewing Thread:

Cotton

Type: Cotton

Color: Red

Steps Followed:

Keep the pocket 1 cm fold on the top of the pocket & stitch a line.

1 cm a around the pocket, with 1 cm if the pocket V shaped. Fold the extra

doth from the side.

Then press the pocket smooth.

Keep the pocket on the bass in middle point.

Stitch the pocket in border line.

Uses:

Shirt, Baby Frock.

16

U-Shaped Pocket

A B U-Shaped Pocket

Equipment & Materials:

Pattern Machine Sewing Fabric Fabric: 2

PIC

Single Needle

Machine

Needle Size: 16

Stitch Range: 30

Stitch per inch:

16

Sewing Thread:

Cotton

Type: Cotton

Color: Red

Steps Followed:

Keep the pocket 1 cm fold on the top of the pocket & stitch a line.

1 cm a around the pocket, with 1 cm if the pocket U shaped. Fold the extra

doth from the side.

Then press the pocket smooth.

Keep the pocket on the bass in middle point.

Stitch the pocket in border line.

Uses:

Shirt, Baby Frock.

17

Sleeve Placket

B C

A Sleeve Placket

Equipment & Materials:

Pattern Machine Sewing Fabric

Fabric: 3

PIC

Single Needle

Machine

Needle Size: 16

Stitch Range: 30

Stitch per inch:

16

Sewing Thread:

Cotton

Type: Cotton

Color: Red

Steps Followed:

Three Pieces of fabric are cut by the markets, the markers; the fabrics are

shown in the illustration as, ABC.

First, fabric C is cut through the white line.

Then fabric C is folded like figure D & joined with cone side of the cut area.

After that fabric B is also folded like figure D & joined with one side of the

cut area like the sample.

After the following steps we will get sleeve placket like figure E.

Uses:

Mainly in shirt sleeves

18

Bound seam

A B Ribbon Bound seam

Seam Definition: This is a seam performed by polling one fabric over another and sewing along the

edges.

Equipments & Materials used to make Bound Seam:

Pattern Machine Sewing Fabric Fabric: 2

PIC

Single Needle

Machine

Needle Size: 16

Stitch Range: 30

Stitch per inch:

16

Sewing Thread:

Cotton

Type: Cotton

Color: Red

Working Process:

These following steps are taken to make Decorative seam.

Cut two pieces of fabric according A & B.

Join two small part and fold with super imposed seam.

Uses:

As a decorative edge to collars, cuffs, pockets or faced neck lines.

Between the bodies and skirts at waist lines o dresses.

To outline openings and hems.

19

Coin pocket A B C D Coin pocket

Equipment & Materials:

Pattern Machine Sewing Fabric Fabric: 4

PIC

Single Needle

Machine

Needle Size: 16

Stitch Range: 30

Stitch per inch:

16

Sewing Thread:

Cotton

Type: Cotton

Color: Red

Steps Followed:

Five pieces of fabric are out by the maker; the fabrics are shown in th

illustration as, ABCDE.

First, the fabric D is attached with the fabric E.

Then fabric C is folded & attached with D & a pocket in made like the

sample.

Fabric A & B is attached through the curve line & 2 top stitches are made

like the sample.

Than fabric B & E are stitched together.

After those following steps we will get Jens pocket with coin pocket like

Figure E.

Uses:

Mainly in lens pants & Gabardine Pants.

20

Zipper Attachment

A B Zipper Attachment

Seam Definition: A closure made of metal or nylon chains attached to tape so that it can be stitched

in to a placket.

Equipment & Materials:

Pattern Machine Sewing Fabric Fabric: 1

PIC

Single Needle

Machine

Needle Size: 16

Stitch Range: 30

Stitch per inch:

16

Sewing Thread:

Cotton

Type: Cotton

Color: Red

Steps Followed:

Two pieces of fabric 4” x 11” & a zipper is needed to make zipper opening.

The fabric & zipper are shown in the illustration as two fabrics & zipper.

Fabric A & B are stitched 4” x 5” together.

Then one side of the zipper is attached with fabric B like the sample.

Fabric A is folded & attached with other side of the zipper by over stitch like

the sample.

After the following steps we will get sleeve placket like figure C.

Uses:

In much kind of dresses we can use Zipper opening.

21

Edge Neatching

A B Edge Neatching

Seam Definition:

Fabric side is cutting by the zigzag skijor.

Equipment & Materials:

Pattern Machine Sewing Fabric

Fabric: 2

PIC

Single Needle

Machine

Needle Size: 16

Stitch Range: 30

Stitch per inch:

16

Sewing Thread:

Cotton

Type: Cotton

Color: Red

Steps Followed:

Cut two pieces of fabric according A & B.

Join two fabrics with back tack leaving 1 cm gap.

Than cut the side by zigzag skijor

Uses:

It is use for fabric does not open yarn.

22

Edge finishing (over Lock)

A B edge finishing (over Lock)

Seam Definition:

Fabric side is Seam by the over lock m/c.

Equipment & Materials:

Pattern Machine Sewing Fabric

Fabric: 2

PIC

Single Needle

Machine

Needle Size: 16

Stitch Range: 30

Stitch per inch:

16

Sewing Thread:

Cotton

Type: Cotton

Color: Red

Steps Followed:

Cut two pieces of fabric according A & B.

Join two fabrics with back tack leaving 1 cm gap.

Than stitch the side by over lock m/c.

Uses:

It is use for fabric does not open yarn.

23

Jetted pocket

B

C

E

D A Jetted

pocket

Fusing

Seam Definition:

5 pieces fabric are cut and a fusing cut and attaching.

Equipment & Materials:

Pattern Machine Sewing Fabric Fabric: 5

PIC

A fusing

Single Needle

Machine

Needle Size: 16

Stitch Range: 30

Stitch per inch: 16

Sewing Thread: Cotton

Type: Cotton

Color: Red

Steps Followed: Cut the 5 pieces fabric A B & C.

Fusing attaching the b & C fabric

Than B & C fabric is attaching the A fabric.

Than the D & E fabric is attaching the back side A fabric.

Uses: *It is use pant back pocket.

24

Continuous Stripe Opening

A B Continuous Stripe

Seam Definition:

1 piece fabric A is cut and a Pipe fabric B cut and seam.

Equipment & Materials:

Pattern Machine Sewing Fabric Fabric: 2

PIC

A fusing

Single Needle

Machine

Needle Size: 16

Stitch Range: 30

Stitch per inch:

16

Sewing Thread:

Cotton

Type: Cotton

Color: Red

Steps Followed: Cut the 2 pieces fabric A &B.

Cut the middle line of A fabric.

Than the pipe fabric B is attach the A fabric.

Uses:

It is use to back side of the female and baby garment

25

Front Fly Zipper

A B C Front Fly Zipper

Seam Definition: A closure made of metal or nylon chains attached to tape so that it can be stitched

in to a placket.

Equipment & Materials:

Pattern Machine Sewing Fabric

Fabric: 3

PIC

Single Needle

Machine

Needle Size: 16

Stitch Range: 30

Stitch per inch:

16

Sewing Thread:

Cotton

Type: Cotton

Color: Red

Steps Followed: 3 pieces of fabric & a zipper is needed to make zipper opening. The fabric &

zipper are shown in the illustration as two fabrics & zipper.

Fabric A & B are stitched together.

Then one side of the zipper is attached with fabric B like the sample.

Fabric A is folded & attached with other side of the zipper by over stitch like

the sample.

After the following steps we will get sleeve placket like figure C.

Uses:

In much kind of pant or trouser we can use Zipper opening.

26

“U” SHAPE NECK LINE

Pattern Neck Line “U” SEAM DEFINITION:

There is a seam performed by the placing one fabric over the other with facing and,

make it look like a U shaped then its called neck line (u). EQUIPMENTS AND MATERIALS:

Pattern Machine Sewing Fabric

Fabric-

2pices & a

fusing.

Single needle sewing

machine

Needle size- 16

Stitch range- 10

Stitch per inch-

12

Sewing thread:

cotton

Type- cotton

Color:Red

Size- Pattern

STEPS FOLLOWED:

Step one: Cut two pieces of fabric according to A and B and also a fusing

according to C by the iron pattern.

Step two: Slash the fusing at fabric (B) and set up at fabric(A)’s top soiide

by the stitch of I inch.

USES:

Male: T-shirts, Panjabi

Female: Kamiz, frock, other dresses.

27

PANT FRONT POCKET

Pattern Pocket

SEAM DEFINITION:

This is a style of pocket that is being used in jacket & formal trousers.

EQUIPMENTS & MATERIALS: Pattern Machine Sewing Fabric

Fabric- 4pices Single needle sewing machine

Needle size- 16

Stitch range- 10

Stitch per inch-

Sewing thread:

cotton

Type- cotton

Color:Red

Size- Pattern

STEPS FOLLOWED: Four pieces of fabric are cut by the markers lick A, B, C & D.

First A & C attached through the diagonal line together & top stitched.

Then fabric B & D are attached like the sample.

Finally fabric C & D attached together.

USES:

Formal Pants

Straight Pants