Your Personal Guide to Bogota

Your Personal Guide to Bogota:Your Personal Guide to Bogota:Your Personal Guide to Bogota:Your Personal Guide to Bogota:

Seriously...Seriously...Seriously...Seriously...Come & Visit Us.Come & Visit Us.Come & Visit Us.Come & Visit Us.

Catedral Primada & Plaza Simone Bolivar, Candelaria – Bogota: Paula Fynboh

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Table of ContentsTable of ContentsTable of ContentsTable of Contents

Purpose of Purpose of Purpose of Purpose of Your Personal Guide to Bogota, Your Personal Guide to Bogota, Your Personal Guide to Bogota, Your Personal Guide to Bogota, DisclaimerDisclaimerDisclaimerDisclaimer and FAQ’sand FAQ’sand FAQ’sand FAQ’s Page 2Page 2Page 2Page 2

Travel Travel Travel Travel Page 3Page 3Page 3Page 3

• Flights from the United States

• Entering the Country

• Getting around when you’re here

LodgingLodgingLodgingLodging Page 5Page 5Page 5Page 5

• Our place

• VRBO’s (Vacation Rental By Owner) in our neighborhood

• Hotels & Hostels

Things to Do & See: BogotaThings to Do & See: BogotaThings to Do & See: BogotaThings to Do & See: Bogota Page 6Page 6Page 6Page 6

• Our “Top Twelve” List

• Restaurants & Night life

In addition to Bogota...In addition to Bogota...In addition to Bogota...In addition to Bogota... Page 12Page 12Page 12Page 12

• Day trips

• Two to Four Days Trips

Sample ItinerariesSample ItinerariesSample ItinerariesSample Itineraries Page 14Page 14Page 14Page 14

• Bogota for Foodies

• Bogota for Artists

• Bogota like the Locals Do It

• Kid-Friendly Bogota

• Colonial Colombia

WWWWhen to Visithen to Visithen to Visithen to Visit & What to Bring& What to Bring& What to Bring& What to Bring Page 18Page 18Page 18Page 18

• Special events

• Sample packing list

BudgetingBudgetingBudgetingBudgeting Page 20Page 20Page 20Page 20

• General costs

• Exchange rate

More ResourcesMore ResourcesMore ResourcesMore Resources that will Give You a Taste for Colombiathat will Give You a Taste for Colombiathat will Give You a Taste for Colombiathat will Give You a Taste for Colombia Page 21Page 21Page 21Page 21

Don’t Take Our Word for ItDon’t Take Our Word for ItDon’t Take Our Word for ItDon’t Take Our Word for It: Words & Advice from Our : Words & Advice from Our : Words & Advice from Our : Words & Advice from Our Recent VisitorsRecent VisitorsRecent VisitorsRecent Visitors Page 22Page 22Page 22Page 22

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Purpose of “Your Purpose of “Your Purpose of “Your Purpose of “Your Personal Personal Personal Personal GuideGuideGuideGuide to Bogotato Bogotato Bogotato Bogota”””” Quite selfishly, my goals in creating this guide are three fold:

1) To get you excited about coming to Bogota;

2) To show you that Colombia is accessible and that coming to visit us is perfectly

doable; and,

3) To have you come & visit us.

Colombia is really an amazing country, but I don’t want to white wash it. Much like the

United States (or anywhere for that matter), it is home to complex problems, but it is also

home to many wonderful things.

Most of the Colombians I’ve met are eager to help and anxious to challenge the

stereotypes people have of their country. They get dismayed that there is not a travel

article out there that doesn’t reference the problems of the past and I am always struck by

how curious Colombians are about our families and friends’ reactions to us moving here.

They say, “Bring your family and friends here to see for themselves. Help change the way

the rest of the world sees us.”

So with that in mind...when are you coming to visit???

DisclaimerDisclaimerDisclaimerDisclaimer Please note that this is not a comprehensive travel guide. In fact, it is not really a travel

guide at all. Rather, this guide simply reflects our experiences living here to date & things

that we want to share with you. I hope it gives you an idea of what to expect & offers

some suggestions you won’t find elsewhere, but it is based simply on our opinion and our

opinion only.

Also, I put this guide together after living in Bogota for only four months. There is still a lot

out there that I have to see & experience. I will update this document as new discoveries

unfold.

Just to Clear the AirJust to Clear the AirJust to Clear the AirJust to Clear the Air –––– Answers to Our Most Commonly Asked QuestionsAnswers to Our Most Commonly Asked QuestionsAnswers to Our Most Commonly Asked QuestionsAnswers to Our Most Commonly Asked Questions “Is Colombia safe?”“Is Colombia safe?”“Is Colombia safe?”“Is Colombia safe?” Yes. Colombia has invested A LOT of time, energy & resources into

security and the security situation has greatly improved. This is not the Colombia of the

‘80s & ‘90s.

“Will I get kidnapped?” “Will I get kidnapped?” “Will I get kidnapped?” “Will I get kidnapped?” No. Please see above.

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First of all, welcome to Bogota! We’re so glad you are coming to visit us! We can’t wait to show you around the city!

Travel Travel Travel Travel Bogota is not a hard or difficult place to travel too. It’s a modern South American city,

slightly bigger than Chicago, and just a three to four hour flight from USjust a three to four hour flight from USjust a three to four hour flight from USjust a three to four hour flight from US cities such as

Miami, Atlanta & Houston. Bogota is surrounded by the lush green Andes Mountains and

has an elevation of 8,500 feet (Denver is about 5,000 feet). Colombia does not

participate in day light savings, so depending on the time of year you choose to visit it will

either be Eastern Standard Time (October – April) or Central Standard Time (April –

October).

• Flights from the United StatesFlights from the United StatesFlights from the United StatesFlights from the United States. Most major US carriers fly to Bogota & most flights

from the US will arrive from Atlanta, Houston, New York or Miami. In addition to

checking with the major carriers and sites like Orbitz, also try Spirit Airlines as they

have some good deals. Avianca is a good local airline that might be worth looking

into as well. Avianca flies from Bogota to Chicago, Dallas, Houston, Ft.

Lauderdale, Miami, Orlando, New York (JFK), San Francisco & Washington DC.

Resources � http://www.orbitz.com/App/PrepareFlightsTab

� http://www.delta.com/

� http://www.continental.com/web/en-US/default.aspx

� http://www.spirit.com/Default.aspx

� http://www.avianca.com/

• Entering the CountryEntering the CountryEntering the CountryEntering the Country. . . . You do not need a VISA or any special documents, shots or

medications to enter the Country. Colombians love visitors and the chance to show

you a side of Colombia that wasn’t in the headlines 10 to 15 years ago. All you

need to enter Colombia is a current passport & an open mind.

• Getting around when you’re hereGetting around when you’re hereGetting around when you’re hereGetting around when you’re here. . . . Transportation within the Country is affordable

and easy to access. There are a variety of options you can use while you’re here &

they include local airlines (if you want to visit other Colombian cities), private

drivers, car rental, taxi cabs, colectivos (public buses), the transmilenio (the closest

thing to a subway system), and your own feet.

Resources � Internal flights to other Colombian cities (highly recommend 2 to 4 day visits

include Cartagena, Cali & Medellin). A good regional flyer is Avianca

Airlines, with services in English. A flight to one of these cities will generally

run you about $100 - $150 US round trip.

� http://www.avianca.com/Inicio/Navegacion/Comprar/Home.htm?idioma

=EN&pais=CO&CheckPortada=SI

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� Private drivers. If you’d like to hire a private driver to help you see some of

the sights they tend to run around $25/hour US. Robinson & I know of a

couple reliable drivers and would be happy to put you in touch with them or

make arrangements for you.

� Car rental. All the major US car rental companies have offices in Bogota:

Hertz, Avis, you name it. The cost of renting a car in Colombia is generally

comparable to that in the United States. However, due to the mountainous

terrain, be aware that stick-shifts are the norm.

� Taxi cabs. Taxi cabs are very affordable in Bogota. A trip can cost

anywhere between $4 & $12 US depending on the distance. When taking a

taxi cab, it is best to have someone (your hotel, restaurant, us, etc) call for

you versus hailing one in the street.

� Colectivos. Colectivos, or public buses, are a cheap and easy way to see

the city. You will need to have a little understanding of the city before

hopping on a colectivo, as there are no maps or schedules, but it is not

impossible. We are always more than happy to help you out. And seriously,

if I figured it out, anyone can. The cost of a colectivo ride? About $.70 US.

If you’re lucky, a street artist (rapper, musician, juggler) will also hop on the

bus & provide you with entertainment while you ride.

� Transmilenio. Due to funding shortfalls and the mountainous terrain of the

city, Bogota was not able to build a subway system. The transmilenio, only

a few years old, is Bogota’s answer to mass transit. The transmilenio is a

double bus that travels specially designated lanes & can cover the city rather

quickly. It’s also a good opportunity – along with the colectivo- to rub

elbows with every day Bogotans & experience Colombian culture. The cost

of a transmilenio ride is about $.90 US. For more information about the

transmilenio, check out:

� http://www.transmilenio.gov.co/WebSite/Default.aspx

� Walking. Be prepared to do a fair amount of walking in Bogota. Traffic is a

common problem and sometimes it’s just easier and quicker to walk.

Transportation To & From the Airport

A taxi ride from the airport to our house is about $25,000 Colombian pesos (about $10 - $15/US).

Alternatively, we can also arrange a van to pick you up at the airport for $40,000 Colombian pesos

(about $20/US).

Either way, Robinson & I will plan to meet you at the airport when you arrive. If you’re lucky, we’ll

even make a sign with your name on it ☺

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LodgingLodgingLodgingLodging When it comes to lodging, you can find something in all price points in Bogota – from the

sleeper sofa in our living room to a luxury hotel. Here are a few options:

• Our place. We have a brand new, cute one bedroom apartment with a comfortable

sleeper sofa in our living room and you are more than welcome to call it home.

However, we understand that you might want more privacy and space than what we

can offer. If that’s the case, check out the resources below.

• VRBO’s (Vacation Rental by Owner) in our neighborhood. A good resource that

we’ve used in the past is VRBO.com. This site offers apartments for rent from

anywhere from a day to a month and is often times more affordable and convenient

than a hotel, plus you have the use of a kitchen.

� http://www.vrbo.com/vacation-rentals/south-america/colombia#a8487

Alternatively, we’ve been in touch with a gentleman who manages a number of

apartments that he rents out to visitors right in our neighborhood. He even has one

in the same building where we live. A link to the apartments he manages is

below...to find something in our neighborhood, click on either the Santa Barbara or

Unicentro link on the left hand side of the page. If you are interested in this option,

it is best to act fast as the apartments fill up quickly.

� http://aptscolombia.com/faqcm.aspx

• Hotels. There are several higher-end boutique hotels in our neighborhood if you’re

looking for luxury for either all, or a part of, your stay. Some options within walking

distance to us include:

� 116 Hotel: http://www.116hotel.com/cont%C3%A1ctenos/

� The Hotel Santefe: http://www.reservas.net/ssphtm/hinfohotel_579.html

� Sonesta: http://www.sonesta.com/Bogota/index.cfm?fa=featuresactivities.home

There are also Radissons, Marriott’s, Embassy Suites and Holiday Inn’s here if you

have hotel points that you want to burn. Check out Lonely Planet or Orbitz for

additional hotel options and prices. As always, if you have questions on the

location or neighborhood, we’re just a phone call or email away.

• Hostels. Bogota also has a number of hostels if you’re looking to mingle more with

other travelers while saving a buck. Honestly, I think the VRBO’s work out to around

the same price per day and offer more comfort & privacy. However, it you’d like to

try a hostel, Lonely Planet offers some good suggestions:

� http://hotels.lonelyplanet.com/colombia/bogota-r1977327/

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Things to Do & SeeThings to Do & SeeThings to Do & SeeThings to Do & See in Bogotain Bogotain Bogotain Bogota

Bogota, while maybe not the most aesthetically beautiful city in the world, is known for its

culture and night life. However, that’s not to say that the city is without its charm & there

is a little something for everybody here. You’ll find top notch restaurants praised by the

New York Times & Anthony Bourdain, progressive urban planning and transportation

solutions, historic buildings, colonial churches, parks, artists & a warm welcome.

Bogotans are proud of their city, happy to host visitors, and anxious to dispel the negative

stereotypes that have plagued their city and country for the last 20 years.

Our Top Twelve ListOur Top Twelve ListOur Top Twelve ListOur Top Twelve List. Here is our own personal top ten (okay, twelve) list of things to do &

see during your visit:

1.1.1.1. MonserrateMonserrateMonserrateMonserrate. Monserrate is located on top of a mountain peak overlooking Bogota &

has the best views of the city. Visit day or night to get a bird’s eye view of Bogota.

There is also a good French restaurant on the mountain if you’d like a romantic &

memorable night overlooking the city lights of Bogota.

� For more info, check out: http://www.cerromonserrate.com/

2.2.2.2. La CandelariaLa CandelariaLa CandelariaLa Candelaria. La Candelaria is the oldest neighborhood in Bogota & is considered

the cultural center of the city. There is a lot to see in the Candelaria, but my personal

favorites include:

� Plaza Simon Bolivar & views of the Cathedral

� The Puerta Falsa, an almost 200 year old coffee shop where you can get a cup of

hot chocolate with cheese. Yes, you melt the piece of cheese in your hot

chocolate, how great is that?!?

� The Museo Botero where you can see the paintings, sketchings & sculptures of

Fernando Botero, Colombia’s most famous and iconic artists. In addition to

Botero’s masterpieces, his private art collection is also on display & includes a

couple of Picasso’s, Salvador Dali & one of my favorites, Max Beckmann.

� The Iglesia del Carmen, a church that looks like a wedding cake.

� The Plaza del Chorro, a historic little square in the Candelaria & also home to

many artists, punk rockers & musicians who love to entertain when the sun starts

to go down.

� Google images of La Candelaria: http://bit.ly/md5UfU

� Museo Botero: http://www.banrepcultural.org/museos-y-colecciones/museo-

botero

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3.3.3.3. Museo del OroMuseo del OroMuseo del OroMuseo del Oro. The Museo del Oro is Bogota’s world famous gold museum. You

can see A LOT of gold here and get a good history lesson along the way. People

rave about it, and it’s worth a visit, but I prefer the oversized art and more inviting

atmosphere of the Museo Botero (see #2).

� Google images for the Museo del Oro: http://bit.ly/iEt43l

4.4.4.4. Usaquen Flea MarketUsaquen Flea MarketUsaquen Flea MarketUsaquen Flea Market. Usaquen is one of my favorite neighborhoods in Bogota. It is

a quaint little village with a number of good restaurants. It’s best to visit on a Sunday

afternoon when the flea market is taking place and you can check out stall upon stall

of jewelry, leather goods & handicrafts, as well as sample food from a variety of

vendors (my favorite is the paella vendor) and watch street art performances such as

jugglers and musicians.

In addition to the flea market on Sundays, Usaquen also has a number of good

restaurants and bars and makes a nice place to visit on the weekends. Some good

places to check out include:

� Our personal favorite, Parrilla Patagonia, is an Argentinian style restaurant where

the meat melts in your mouth. Some of my most memorable nights in Bogota

have been spent in this restaurant. I highly recommend it.

� 80 Sillas has great ceviche and other offerings in a quaint, romantic setting. I

had their beef carpaccio a couple of weeks ago and can’t stop thinking about it.

� Mediterrania is, you guessed it, a Mediterranean restaurant in an old hacienda

setting – good food and very romantic.

� Arcanos Mayores is also really cute and really good. Good for a traditional meal

or a creative cocktail at their bar.

� Video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=23AL_fMhrn4&feature=related

5.5.5.5. The CicloviaThe CicloviaThe CicloviaThe Ciclovia. The ciclovia covers miles upon miles of urban roadways in Bogota & is

open every Sunday and Holiday (did you know Colombia has 17 national holidays?!?

Lovin’ that!) You can stroll down the ciclovia on your way to the Usaquen Flea

Market – see #4 above. Bogota’s ciclovia has served as a model for urban planning

& recreation worldwide.

� Here’s a great you tube video about it:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ELa5CHsUepo

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6.6.6.6. Parque Simon Bolivar & the Botanical GardensParque Simon Bolivar & the Botanical GardensParque Simon Bolivar & the Botanical GardensParque Simon Bolivar & the Botanical Gardens.... Parque Simon Bolivar is a huge

green park smack dab in the middle of Bogota. It has walking paths, greenery, an

amusement park and occasional live music and concerts. The botanical gardens,

right across the street, have lotus flowers the size of your head. It’s a visit that is

definitely worth a part of your day.

Only one transmilenio stop down from Parque Simone Bolivar is the Universidad la

Nacional campus and it’s worth another hour or two of your time. La Nacional (or

“la Nacho” as it is called) has a unique standing in Bogota as it is one of the best

universities in Colombia and also a public university—a rare combination in a

Country where the best schools are often privatized, and thusly, cost prohibitive for

many Colombians. Walk around the campus and check out the stunning graffiti art,

buy hand crafts or snacks from the multitude of independent student vendors (your

purchase may just help cover their weekly budget) and hang out in the plaza de la

revolucion. La Nacional is where I study Spanish & I feel like I’m 18 every time I walk

on to the campus. If that’s not worth an hour of your time, I don’t know what is ☺

7.7.7.7. Cuadra PichaCuadra PichaCuadra PichaCuadra Picha. . . . Unfortunately the Cuadra Picha has a bad reputation and a lot of

Bogotans will tell you not to go here. It’s too bad as the Cuadra Picha is a fun,

working class neighborhood that is worth experiencing. As long as you exercise

common sense & maybe go with a local, you will have a great time and be able to

experience a side of Bogota that the tourist books won’t tell you about. The Cuadra

Picha is especially colorful on a Saturday or Sunday afternoon when families are out

shopping or eating at one of the many good (and affordable) parrillas (Argentinian

style restaurants) that line the street.

8.8.8.8. The Zona RosaThe Zona RosaThe Zona RosaThe Zona Rosa. The Zona Rosa was voted one of the top five neighborhoods in

South America and is home to some great boutiques, shopping, restaurants & a very

vibrant party scene. Recommend dining options include Central, for what many

people say is the best ceviche in the city, DiLucca for pizza and Andres Carne DC.

Try the martinis at Pravda, but don’t let yourself have more than two – trust me on

this one.

� You Tube video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MmYL_v-Lgi0&feature=related

� Google images of the Zona Rosa: http://bit.ly/l445Jk

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9.9.9.9. The Zona GThe Zona GThe Zona GThe Zona G. The Zona G is another good night spot. Come a little early to give

yourself time to stroll down the shaded streets, then take your time eating or drinking

in some really great restaurants & bars. In my opinion, the Zona G is a more

sophisticated, less touristy version of the Zona Rosa. A few of my Zona G

recommendations include:

� Harry’s Bar – a place to rub shoulders with Bogota’s rich & famous. Everyone

here tells us that you have to go to Harry’s at least once in your lifetime.

� Kong, Buddha Garden and the rooftop terrace at La Familia are great places to

grab a fancy (and spendy) cocktail.

� People rave about both Astrid & Gaston & Rafael Restaurante – two world class

Peruvian restaurants that are among the best in the city.

� http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ac1ZnmmHlBY&feature=related

Shopping

Bogota has some good boutiques and shopping options that I am just starting to explore. There is a

lot more out there than what I’ve discovered. Keep in mind I quit my day job and am not trying to

tempt myself… at least quite yet. That being said, here are some accidental finds ☺…

• Clothing: Clothing can run about the same price as in the states. If you’re looking for

something no one in the States will have and don’t mind dropping some coin, try Bendita Seas,

Olga Piedrahita & Renata Lozano – three interesting Colombian designers who have boutiques

in the Zona Rosa. Ochosesenta is more affordable and also features all Colombian designers –

also in the Zona Rosa. I like their boots & jewelry.

• Leather: Colombia is known for their leather and you can find some interesting handbags and

wallets at the Usaquen Flea Market. If you want something really special, go to Mu in the Zona

Rosa. They have leather wallets, satchels and handbags in every size and color under the sun.

It’s pretty dangerous. Another place to scope out is Taller Manuel del Cuero in the Macarena.

Depending on the length of your visit, you can even enroll in a leather making workshop. I will

do this someday!

• Tapestries: Colombia also has beautiful hand woven tapestries. If you like this sort of thing,

the best places are the artisan shops across from the Museo del Oro or Los Andes University in

the Candelaria.

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10.10.10.10. MMMMacarenaacarenaacarenaacarena. The Macarena neighborhood is a small, but charming bohemian party

neighborhood. It’s a great place to visit for dinner, particularly la Tapas Macarena

restaurant, a small but delicious tapas restaurant or Leo, Cocina, y Cava for

innovative Colombian food. I’ll be honest, I haven’t eaten at Leo, Cocina y Cava

yet, but people rave about the food. We went there for cocktails one night and their

house martini was something pretty special. The décor is Chambers Hotel meets

Scare Face, with equal awesomeness on both parts. It’s convenient to check out the

Macarena after spending the day in the Candelaria (see # 2) or watching the sunset

on top of Monserrate (see #1).

11.11.11.11. Parque 93Parque 93Parque 93Parque 93. Parque 93 is another nice neighborhood lined with trendy places to eat,

drink or enjoy a cup of coffee & dessert. It’s located around a large park where you

can take a nice stroll before or after dinner or hang out during the day and read or

play Frisbee or other things like that. A good dinner turn live music/dj/club stay out

late venue is the Puerta Grande. If you go to the Puerta Grande check out the

décor. It’s beautiful.

� You Tube video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8Ziwq7cqEQA

12.12.12.12. Chapinero Chapinero Chapinero Chapinero NeighborhoodNeighborhoodNeighborhoodNeighborhood. The Chapinero neighborhood is a must see at night & is

full of clubs, DJ’s, live music and hip, young kids out making the most of their

youth. You can walk anywhere along Carreras 5, 7 & 9 and Calles 49 – 59 and find

a party. Chapinero is far less touristy than the Zona Rosa, younger than the Zona

G, louder than the Macarena & much less sanitized than Parque 93. The Chapinero

borders the Zona G and it’s convenient to come here after a nice meal or civilized

cocktail or two in the Zona G. A night in Chapinero usually turns into an early

morning taxi ride home. Ouch.

Meat cooking at the Pariila Patagonia,

Useqeun – Bogota: Paula Fynboh

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Restaurants & Night Restaurants & Night Restaurants & Night Restaurants & Night LifeLifeLifeLife: : : : The sky is really the limit here and there are so many more

places to experience than we’ve had the chance to visit so far. A quick rundown of our

favorites, as well as highly recommended venues from trusted sources include:

Food & Food & Food & Food & DiningDiningDiningDining

Something Special: $$$Something Special: $$$Something Special: $$$Something Special: $$$ $25 - $40 US without drinks

Something Special: $$Something Special: $$Something Special: $$Something Special: $$ $10- $20 US without drinks

Something Special: $Something Special: $Something Special: $Something Special: $ Less than $5 US

• Andres Carne de Res

(Chia – about 30

minutes outside of

Bogota, but worth every

minute). As the NY

Times said, if you leave

6 hours after you’ve

eaten – you’re leaving

too soon. If you can’t

get to Chia, visit Andres

DC (Andres Carne de

Res’ sister in the Zona

Rosa)

• Astrid & Gaston (Zona

G)

• Harry’s Bar (Zona G)

• Casa San Isidro

(Monserrate)

• Patagonia Parrila

(Usaquen)

• Central (Zona Rosa)

• Tapas Macarena

(Macarena)

• Di Lucca (Zona Rosa)

• 80 Sillas (Usaquen)

• Puerta Grande (Parque

93)

• Gaucho (Macarena)

• Street food (yes, it is safe

to eat): Empanadas,

Pastel de Yucca &

Obleas are on the top of

my list. More on street

food: http://bit.ly/jLUqKw

• SurtiFruva produce store

– stock up on all kinds of

fresh fruits

• Perros Calientes (hot

dogs with friend potato), I

like the ones from J&R’s

the best. I first tried one

of these late at night after

a few drinks – I liked it so

much I went back to get

another one for lunch the

next day!

• La Plaza de Andes food

court at El Retiro mall

(Zona Rosa)

DrinksDrinksDrinksDrinks

Something Special: $$$Something Special: $$$Something Special: $$$Something Special: $$$ $10 – $15 US

Something Special: $$Something Special: $$Something Special: $$Something Special: $$ $5 - $10 US

Something Special: $Something Special: $Something Special: $Something Special: $ $2 - $5 US

• BarDeLeo (Macarena)

• Kong (Zona G)

• Buddha Gardens (Zona

G)

• Arcanos Mayores

(Usaquen)

• 14 Inkas (Zona Rosa or

Usaquen)

• Pravda (Zona Rosa)

• Bogota Beer Company

(handful of locations):

Bogota Beer Company is

a local chain with good

micro brews.

• Any spot in the

Chapinero

• Any neighborhood tienda

(basically a convenient

store where you can buy

beer or wine & sit there

and chat with the locals)

• La Puerta Falsa for hot

chocolate (Candelaria)

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In AIn AIn AIn Addition to Bogotaddition to Bogotaddition to Bogotaddition to Bogota Colombia borders both the Atlantic & Pacific oceans & has three major mountain ranges

that cut through the country. In addition, the Amazon Rainforest consumes about one-

third to one-half of the country and the geographic diversity of the country extends to the

diversity of its people, culture & art as well.

Do yourself a favor & get out of Bogota at least once while you’re here so you can get a

better feel for Colombia as a Country.

Day tripsDay tripsDay tripsDay trips

• ChiaChiaChiaChia. Only about a 30 minute drive outside of Bogota, Chia has some cute colonial

buildings & is home to the world renowned Andre Carne de Res restaurant.

Celebrities are known to fly in to Bogota just to party here for a night.

� http://www.colombia.com/turismo/sitio/chia/

• ZipaquiraZipaquiraZipaquiraZipaquira. About an hour to an hour and a half drive from Bogota, Zipaquira is

home to the Salt Cathedral, a beautiful plaza and a couple pretty churches. Eat at

one of the local parrillas after you tour the salt cathedral and give yourself time to

soak in the town while sitting at one of the cute bars or coffee houses on the plaza.

� http://www.zipaquira-cundinamarca.gov.co/index.shtml

Two to Four Days TripsTwo to Four Days TripsTwo to Four Days TripsTwo to Four Days Trips

• Villa de LeyvaVilla de LeyvaVilla de LeyvaVilla de Leyva. About 3 – 4 hours outside of Bogota and accessible by bus. Villa

de Leyva is a picturesque little city with a huge cobblestone plaza, white washed

buildings and lots of shopping options, especially for leather handicrafts.

� http://www.villadeleyva.net/inf_general_fotos_pueblo.php

• BaricharaBaricharaBaricharaBarichara. Barichara is a charming town & a UNESCO world heritage site. You can

do nothing but walk the streets and soak in the Spanish architecture. If you’re more

motivated, you can also get a spa treatment or hike to one of the other charming

villages, however, it’s a bit of an effort to get there – about an 8 drive doable by

bus or rental car. You should know that the drive is absolutely stunning & shows you

a side of Colombia you won’t see in Bogota. It’s definitely worth it – we drove there

with my parents and want to go back.

� Google images of Barichara: http://bit.ly/jYC7Cl

13

• MedellinMedellinMedellinMedellin. Medeliin is Colombia’s second largest city. Wallpaper magazine wrote a

great article on Medellin last year & I wish I could find it online, but I can’t. Medellin

is home to some of the best modern architecture in Colombia, including the library

on top of Santa Domingo Salvia. It’s also emerging as a fashion-forward city and

many Colombian designers have made it their home. Medellin has transformed

itself from being the home of Pablo Escabar to a growing art & cultural community

with a strong investment in education. It’s definitely worth seeing. Be sure to

check out the rumbas & stay out all night in the Pablado neighborhood, see the

giant Fernando Botero sculptures in the Plazoleta de las Esculturas, and take a

cable car to the Santa Domingo Salvia neighborhood to see the transformation first

hand.

� http://colombiareports.com/travel-in-colombia/medellin.html

• CartegenaCartegenaCartegenaCartegena. Cartegena is the major tourist city of Colombia and also a UNESCO

world heritage site on the Caribbean coast.... It’s a blending of Indigenous, Afro-

Caribbean & Spanish culture. It’s absolutely stunning with great architecture,

balconies, restaurants, shopping & night life. I could take pictures all day long in

Cartegena. When planning your visit to Colombia, give yourself enough time to fly

to Cartegena and enjoy a few nights there – it will make your trip to Colombia most

memorable. It really is a magical city.

� http://www.turismocartagenadeindias.com/

Cobblestone streets, Barichara – Colombia: Paula Fynboh

14

Sample ItinerariesSample ItinerariesSample ItinerariesSample Itineraries

Here are some ideas on how to organize your time, based on your interests, while you’re

here. Some of these itineraries are fairly aggressive & can be mixed and matched or

spread out over a couple more days. Pick & choose for yourself or send us an email with

the things that interest you the most & we can create a personalized itinerary for you.

Bogota for FoodiesBogota for FoodiesBogota for FoodiesBogota for Foodies

Day One::::

• Sleep in & then make your way to an Almuerza Corriente for a Bandeja Paisa. Seriously

good sh*t. http://bit.ly/j5Ml0Y

• Walk off your Bandeja Paisa with a trip to Parque Simone Bolivar & a stop at

Universidad Nacional. Grab an empanada from a street vendor when you start to get

hungry again.

• Come home, rest & get ready to eat some more as you head to Usaquen with a visit to

Patagonia Parrila.

Day Two:

• You had a big day yesterday. Go easy on yourself this morning with some fresh fruit &

jam that you picked up from SurtiFruva on your way home last night.

• Make your way to the Candelaria to continue to walk off last night’s meal. Stop in La

Puerta Falsa for a cup of hot chocolate with cheese & maybe a homemade sweet.

• Make your way to Monserrate for an afternoon & possibly sunset view of Bogota. Dine

at Casa San Isidro, a romantic French restaurant on top of Monserrate or cruise over to

the Macarena district to Tapas Macarena followed by cocktails at Bar De Leo.

Day Three:

• Head to the Zona Rosa for a day of shopping and grab ceviche for lunch at Central.

• For dinner, go to the Zona G and grab a pre-dinner cocktail on the roof top terrace of

La Familia before a special meal at Astrid & Gaston, followed by another cocktail or

two at Kong’s.

Day Four:

• Grab brunch at Bagetelle and then take your time walking around Parque 93.

• Get ready to head to Chia, just outside of Bogota, for an all night dinner at Andres

Carne de Res.

15

Bogota for Artists Bogota for Artists Bogota for Artists Bogota for Artists

Day One:

• Assuming it’s Sunday, grab coffee at the legendary Juan Valdez and walk the ciclovia

to the Usaquen Flea Market. Peruse the artist stalls (especially the leather hand bags

and jewelry) & enjoy performances by jugglers, musicians and other street art

performers.

• Stop in for a drink and maybe a fortune card reading at Arcanos Mayores.

Day Two:

• Head to the Candelaria for colonial architecture and churches. Give yourself time to

look at Fernando Botero’s sketchings, paintings and sculptures, as well as his own

personal art collection of Picassos and Salvador Dali at the Museo Botero. Make a

quick run through the Museo del Oro & the artist shops across the street from the

Museo del Oro (I especially like the handmade tapestries or ‘molas’ as they are called

(http://bit.ly/jPLrsn). Go to the Plaza del Chorro a little before sunset to hang out and

watch artists of every type.

Day Three:

• Wander around the campus at Universidad Nacional and check out all of the

graffiti/street art. Maybe even catch some live music being played by some of the

students in the plaza de revolucion.

• Head to the Macarena to soak in the Bohemian vibe, dinner and some great leather

handiwork at Taller Manuel del Cuero. Then go to the Chapinero to see some live

music.

Graffiti art at Universidad Nacional campus, Bogota: Paula Fynboh

16

BogotaBogotaBogotaBogota like the Locals Do Itlike the Locals Do Itlike the Locals Do Itlike the Locals Do It

Day One:

• Enjoy a Bandeja Paisa breakfast at a local almuerza corriente before heading to the

Candelaria by colectivo. With any luck a juggler, poet or rapper will hop on the bus

and perform for you.

• Spend the day walking around the Candelaria and sampling different street food from

the many food vendors. Hang out in the Parque de los Periodistas or walk down

Avenida Jimenez for shopping the way the locals do it. Go to the Plaza del Chorro a

little before sunset for some more hanging with the locals.

• If you’re lucky enough to visit Bogota on the first Friday of the month, be sure to make

it to La Dayliciosa, part bar-b-que, part happy hour, part all night dance party. Check

out a recent NY Times article about it:

� http://travel.nytimes.com/2011/04/24/travel/24cultured-dayliciosa.html

Day Two:

• Take the transmilenio to Parque Simone Bolivar and plan a stop at Universidad

Nacional.

• Get a cheap manicure & pedicure and browse through Latin fashion magazines at a

local beauty shop while you make small talk with the ladies working there.

• Stay in for dinner and watch Colombian popular Tele Novellas (evening soap operas)

and order out from the many tiendas, pharmacies or restaurants that deliver. Note:

You can get both McDonald’s and ice cream delivered right to your front door

• Catch a soccer game in the evening at El Campin stadium or just handout and talk

sh*t at a local tienda.

Day Three:

• Assuming you’re here on a Monday, sit in on the free English class Robinson and I

teach to the people who work in our building. Have them teach you a couple sayings

in Spanish in exchange for teaching them a couple American slang expressions.

• Make your way to the Cuadra Picha for lunch, then spend some time walking around

one of the many malls in Bogota.

• Head to the Chapinero at night to party with Bogota’s youth.

17

KidKidKidKid----Friendly BogotaFriendly BogotaFriendly BogotaFriendly Bogota

****Children are revered in Colombia, so basically anywhere you go (outside of the clubs) is kid-friendly. Sundays in particular are reserved for family time.

Day One:

• Assuming you have a Sunday here, enjoy some time playing along the ciclovia on your

way to the Usaquen flea market. Watch jugglers and street performers for hours in the

Usaquen plaza and pick up some homemade sweets and fresh fruit in the flea market.

Day Two:

• Feed and chase the pigeons in the Plaza Simone Bolivar in front of the Cathedral in the

Candelaria.

• Have a picnic lunch, run around and check out the amusement park in the Parque

Simone Bolivar.

• Borrow Oscar and come with us to a local park to watch the dogs play.

Day Three:

• Spend the day at the Mundo Aventura (World of Adventure), an amusement theme park

located near the Cuadra Picha neighborhood (http://www.mundoaventura.com.co/).

After you’re finished adventuring, grab a family meal at one of the many parrila’s in the

neighborhood.

Colonial BogotaColonial BogotaColonial BogotaColonial Bogota

Day One:

• Spend the day wandering around the Candelaria neighborhood in Bogota, soaking in

the Plaza, churches & architecture.

Day Two:

• Take a bus to Villa de Leyva & spend the night.

Day Three:

• Return to Bogota & head to Usaquen in the evening for a nice dinner and stroll through

the plaza and cobblestone streets.

Day Four – Seven:

• Either fly Avianca Airlines to Cartagena to spend a few days walking around the Old

City or rent a car and drive to Barichara and wander the cobblestone streets there.

Both will provide completely different experiences, but either way, you will be in colonial

heaven.

18

When to Visit & What to BringWhen to Visit & What to BringWhen to Visit & What to BringWhen to Visit & What to Bring Come & visit us whenever and as much as you’d like. However, if you have the option to

avoid the month of April (and maybe May), I would recommend doing so, as this is the

rainy season and it could rain for days during your visit.

Special eSpecial eSpecial eSpecial eventsventsventsvents. Below is a list of interesting events that take place over the course of the

year. Although these are annual events, the exact dates will be different each year. If

something is particularly catching your eye, it’s a good idea to double-check the exact

dates it will be happening.

Late January Late January Late January Late January –––– Mid FebruaryMid FebruaryMid FebruaryMid February

• Bogota Fashion Week, Bogota. Runway shows and special events featuring

Colombian and South American designers.

FebruaryFebruaryFebruaryFebruary • Carnaval, Barranquilla (located on the Atlantic coast, near Cartagena). Carnaval is

like mardi gras and takes place 40 days before Easter. Usually the middle of

February.

AprilAprilAprilApril

• Semana Santa (Holy Week). The biggest festivities take place in Popayon (near

the Pacific Coast), Mompox (near the Atlantic Coast) and Bogota. Usually in mid

to late April.

JulyJulyJulyJuly

• Rock el Parque, Bogota. Large, four-day free music festival featuring Colombian,

Latin American and a handful of American bands in Parque Simone Bolivar.

• Medellin Fashion Week, Medellin. Runway shows and special events featuring

mostly Medellin designers and other Colombian and South American designers.

OctoberOctoberOctoberOctober

• Gastronomía, Bogota. Food week featuring Colombian chefs.

NovemberNovemberNovemberNovember

• Senorita Colombia Pageant, Cartagena. Colombia is big on beauty pageants and

the biggest, Miss Colombia, takes place every November in Cartagena.

DecemberDecemberDecemberDecember

• Expoartesanias, Bogota. Large artisan and craft fair featuring Colombian artists

and craftspeople, Indigenous art and other Latin Artists.

19

Sample packing listSample packing listSample packing listSample packing list. . . . There are not really seasons here, with the exception of the rainy

months. Everyday has a high temperature between 65 and 70 degrees and a low around

50 or 55 degrees at night. Even in the dry season it usually rains once every couple of

days for a half hour to an hour. Plan to bring:

• Your passport, along with your cash card/credit card.

• A travel umbrella.

• Your camera.

• Shoes than can handle walking and concrete. I am either wearing boots with a

lower and wider heal or flats here. My poor stiletto collection isn’t getting much use

and when they do come out I usually carry them to our destination in my bag and

then change into them when I get there.

• Clothes that can be layered. I usually wear leggings or jeans with a tunic or dress

and carry my spring jacket with me at night. Know that when the sun is out – even

if it’s only 67 or 70 degrees, it can feel much, much warmer

• Sunscreen. It’s not crazy hot here, but we are a lot closer to the sun with the

elevation.

• Any toiletries you need.

• Not mandatory, but your experience will likely be richer if you study up on key

Spanish phrases and do a little homework before you arrive. For your convenience,

I’ve included a number of links as part of this guide and also developed a resource

section.

In terms of language, you’ll be fine if you don’t know much (look at me!) However,

the Lonely Planet Colombia book has a short section with the most common

expressions that is quite useful.

• http://shop.lonelyplanet.com/colombia/colombia-travel-guide-5

• http://shop.lonelyplanet.com/south-america/latin-american-spanish-

phrasebook-5

Gold Figure, Museo del Oro, Bogota:

Paula Fynboh

20

BudgetingBudgetingBudgetingBudgeting Your flight & lodging (depending where you choose to stay) will be your biggest expense.

Bogota can be enjoyed on a variety of budgets and a lot of the attractions I mentioned

(Candelaria, Parque Simon Bolivar, the Usaquen Flea Market) are free. You can drop coin

eating and drinking at upscale places in the Zona G, Zone Rosa and Parque 93, or you

can get by on $10/day if you stock up at the grocery store, eat street food, take public

transport and drink in the tiendas.

• Exchange rateExchange rateExchange rateExchange rate. . . . This site is handy for calculating the current exchange rate for US

dollars to Colombian pesos. http://www.xe.com/ucc/

Giant bronze hand, Museo Botero,

Bogota: Paula Fynboh

21

More ResourcesMore ResourcesMore ResourcesMore Resources This is an important section as it will give you a feel for Bogota outside of what I’m telling

you and also provide you with other ideas of things to do and see while you’re here. Even

if you’re not able to visit us, I think this is still a good section to look at it as it. A quick

note: I tried to find more unique sources (blogs, independent websites & articles) in order

to give you an idea beyond what you would see in a traditional tour guide book.

• 101 Reasons to Love Bogota101 Reasons to Love Bogota101 Reasons to Love Bogota101 Reasons to Love Bogota (blog post): A fun & quick read.

http://www.elbogotazo.com/miscelanea/manual-de-bogota/1769-101-reasons-

to-love-bogota.html

• Your Bogota Your Bogota Your Bogota Your Bogota (website): A great resource developed by two Canadians (and new

friends of ours). You can get tips on restaurants, shopping, events, when to visit

and packing suggestions. http://yourbogota.info/

• Bogota BitesBogota BitesBogota BitesBogota Bites (blog): A food blog recently started by a woman from NY (& a new

friend of mine) now living in Bogota. I sometimes accompany Lily (the author) on

her Bogota Bites assignments.

http://bogotabites.wordpress.com/2011/06/14/bogota/

• New York Times TravelNew York Times TravelNew York Times TravelNew York Times Travel: Quick travel articles

� 36 hours in Bogota: http://travel.nytimes.com/2010/07/04/travel/04hours.html

� 36 hours in Cartegena:

http://travel.nytimes.com/2008/05/25/travel/25hours.html

• Anthony Bourdain: No Reservations,Anthony Bourdain: No Reservations,Anthony Bourdain: No Reservations,Anthony Bourdain: No Reservations, ColombiaColombiaColombiaColombia (video): Shot is Cartegena &

Medellin, it does not contain any video clips or references to Bogota, but provides a

good overview of the food, culture and people.

� Part 1 of 3: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6L1Vi3zWpBQ

� Part 2 of 3: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LcmueiCJb_o

� Part 3 of 3: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3h_3YpwilIg

• Mapping the City to Hip HopMapping the City to Hip HopMapping the City to Hip HopMapping the City to Hip Hop (Blog & videos). Takes place in Medellin and provides

a fascinating overview of the changes taking place in Colombia as told by youth.

http://globalvoicesonline.org/2011/06/24/colombia-video-mapping-the-city-to-

hip-hop/

• Films that Misrepresent Colombia...and Some Which Don’tFilms that Misrepresent Colombia...and Some Which Don’tFilms that Misrepresent Colombia...and Some Which Don’tFilms that Misrepresent Colombia...and Some Which Don’t (blog article): For movie

lovers... http://networkedblogs.com/j5Zva (FYI: Bogotans hate the movie Mr. & Mrs. Smith).

22

Don’t Take Our Word for ItDon’t Take Our Word for ItDon’t Take Our Word for ItDon’t Take Our Word for It: : : : Words & Advice from Our Recent VisitorsWords & Advice from Our Recent VisitorsWords & Advice from Our Recent VisitorsWords & Advice from Our Recent Visitors

So...you’re actually going to help me write this page. As an added bonus to anyone who

comes and visits, you get to add your unedited comments to this page. I’m hoping we

have so many visitors that this section will go on forever ☺

“Dress in layers. Be sure to try the local stands for fruits & fresh OJ. Also, the local food is very good...be sure to try some. Learn some basic Spanish before your trip. The people are friendly especially when you give them a smile and some consideration. A couple pair of good walking shoes are a must. See other places besides Bogota so you experience more of the culture. It's good to have a map with you. The Botero museum was interesting and fun and the Gold Museum is a must see. Also visit the Bogota Beer Company preferably in the evening and take in the Usaquen market on Sunday. It's a fun place to visit and it feels good to know some people still like the U.S.” --Mom & Dad Fynboh Visited May 2011