Your Garden and Global Warming

Practical tipsfor preparing your

growing space

Your Gardenand climate change

Common Cause

Common Cause is a Lewes based,not for profit social enterprise, thatpromotes the local economy bysupporting sustainable farming andfacilitates wider access to local foodsand involvement in growing food.

We have trialled techniques for copingwith changing weather patterns overthe last few years at our growing sitesin East Sussex.

This booklet has been funded byThe Lewes Pound ‘Live Lewes Fund’through Sussex Community Foundation.

www.commoncause.org.ukwww.thelewespound.orgwww.sussexgiving.org.uk

Front cover: JerusalemArtichoke flower;above:Alliums,and right: Nasturtiums

What canwe expect from climate change? 2 – 3

Startwith the soil and composting for strongplants 4 – 5

Techniques for adding nutrientsnaturally and improving soil fertility 6 – 7

Water conservation – drip feeding,planting,mulching,plastic bottle bed 8 – 9

Type of plants to grow,choosing suitable plants 10 – 11

Lawns versus ediblemeadows 12

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Contents

Climate ismeasured over thelong-term averageof daily weather

conditions

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This booklet is about the steps thatyou can take tomake your gardenmore resilient and ready for thepredicted changes in our climate.

The predictions fromClimate SouthEast are for“climate change to leadto hotter drier summers,warmerwetter winters,higher sea levels andan increase in extreme events suchas heatwaves,droughts and floods”.

We are already experiencingmilderwinters,with less frost and snow tohelp control pests.When it rains itis often as heavier downpours,running off baked dry land ratherthan seeping in where its needed.

The scale of predicted climatechange can feel daunting.However,there are steps that can be taken ata local level which will help tomakea difference,particularly if a wholestreet, neighbourhood, town andCountymake adaptations.

Further information

• www.climatesoutheast.org.uk• www.transitiontownlewes.org• www.smarterliving.org.uk

Our Changing Climate

How will this affect gardening?What can be done?The immediate problems facing agardener in the South East will beensuring plants have enough water,protecting plants from storm damage,preventing soil erosion and nutrientdepletion, and dealing with new pestsand diseases brought in by milderconditions.

On the following pages you will findpractical steps that you can take toadapt your garden for successful futuregrowing. It is likely to meanreconsidering the types of plants

that you currently grow, the structure ofyour garden, how you conserve waterfor your plants and what tools andmachinery you use.All powerequipment whether electric or petrolwill increase your carbon footprint, sothink about whether you could usealternatives, or look at some of thedifferent growing methods describedhere such as forest gardening.

Youwill find useful links throughoutto explore possibilities further.

Hazle hurdlewindbreakprotectsplants

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Start with the soil

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Having a healthy, nutrient packed soilwith a balanced mix of soil organisms isprobably the best way of helping yourgarden’s chances of flourishing.Increasing soil fertility will re-pay youin stronger, healthier plants more ableto withstand adverse conditions.

It is better for the life in the soilif chemicals such as herbicides andpesticides are not used.They will resultin a depletion of natural soil bacteria andother life.Digging the soil dries it out andreleases carbon into the atmosphere soa no-dig system,where weeds aremulched (page 9) and soil aerated byadding compost which worms will pulldown,will avoid this.

Over the years soil fertility in no-digbuilds up with the compost added,and itwilll have a thriving,healthy communityof micro-organisms creating a naturalecosystem,providing benefits for plantsand wildlife. If you are growing in potschoose large ones withmore plants intogether, as small pots dry out quickly.

The problemwith peatIn the UK,more than 24 millionwheelbarrows of peat are used everyyear by amateur gardeners.Despitepeat being used so readily,most peopledon’t realise the destructive impact thishas on the wider environment,including the release of thousands oftonnes of carbon dioxide every year andthe loss of the homes of birds, insectsand plants.

Peat is still added to compost so it isimportant to make sure that you choosea peat-free bag – it is worth asking yourgarden centre why they still stock peatproducts as customer pressure can helpto address the problem. See the GardenOrganic pages for more informationabout why peat bogs are so valuable,and tips for sustainable gardening.

What can be used instead? Apart frombuying peat free compost, its worthhaving a go at making your own,following the steps in the link below.

Further information

• www.gardenorganic.org.uk/growyourown/Activities/A38.pdf• www.idontdigpeat.org.uk• www.gardenorganic.org.uk

Composting

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If you have tried composting and endedup with sludge or a static twiggy pile,don’t give up, because you can changethis to a properly working compost witha few easy steps!

Tips for making compostThe secret is to get the right mix of green(nitrogen rich) and brown (carbon rich)materials which will create a perfectenvironment for worms, insects andmicrobes which will do the work for you.

Gather as much material together at thesame time to start – the bigger theheap or fuller the compost bin, thequicker composting will happen.

An ideal mix would be a base of twiggygarden cuttings (chopped up withshears in a wheelbarrow) greenergarden cuttings, kitchen waste, scrappaper scrumpled up, some nettle topsto accelerate the process and a bucketof water to dampen it all.

A rodent proof bin such as a GreenJohanna means that you can compost

cooked waste,meat, fish and dairyscraps as well. All these things will breakdown into compost, but they need tobe mixed with shredded paper, twiggygarden waste or torn up cardboard forbest results. Biochar can also be added.(see next page).

For more information and factsheets on all stages of composting see

• www.recyclenow.com/home_composting• www.eastsussex.gov.uk/environment/rubbishandrecycling/whatyoucando/composting

Homemade potting compost

Techniques for addingnutrients naturally

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GreenmanuresSowing green manure in the autumnwill add valuable nutrients when it iscut and turned into the soil in spring.Over the winter as it is growing theroots will hold soil in place, preventingwind erosion, evaporation and loss ofnutrients. It is worth experimentingwith different types; phacellia is easyto turn in and if you leave a few toflower, provides a food source thatbees will love.

When plants are well established theywill benefit from a feed high innutrients such as nitrogen, phosphorusand potassium which you can makeyourself from nettles, comfrey,wormeryliquid, seaweed or even just weeds!These plants contain trace elementsessential to plant health and resilience.

Making plant feed� In an old barrel place a porous clothsack/bag containing a good numberof nettle or comfrey leaves, orpernicious weed roots likebindweed/couch grass/ground elderinside.Tie neck securely.

� Weigh down with a slab or brick.Cover with rainwater. It can developa strong smell, so site it carefully!

� Making in a raised barrel with a tapwill make it easier to harvest yournatural liquid fertiliser into a wateringcan.Dilute 10:1 with rainwater.

� After a fewmonths under water thepernicious weeds can safely be addedto the compost heap or used as amulch.

BiocharBiochar is made by burning woodymaterial in kilns whereby the gases arere-cycled, unlike those formed in themaking of charcoal.There is evidenceof its use by ancient communities in theAmazon.

Conversion into biochar results in fewergreenhouse gas emissions than if thebiomass had rotted or been burnt.

How to useHomemade biochar is best used addedto a compost heap initially. Ready madeproducts are available which can beadded to seed compost,when plantingout, or as a top dressing for shallowrooted plants.

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Mycorrhizal fungiMycorrhizal fungi act as a vast droughtcombating networkmaking use of allavailablemoisture, increasing uptake oftrace elements and transferring nutrients,building healthier, stronger plants andincreasing yields of edible crops.

Mycorrhizas may speed plant growth,stimulate fine root development andlengthen the life of the roots.They canalso protect plants from drought (suchas nematode worms) and pathogens(micro-organisms that cause disease).These fungi can also act as a bufferprotecting surrounding plants from theharmful effects of any toxic heavymetals present in the soil.Source: Trees for Life

Further information

• www.gardenorganic.org.uk/factsheets/gs3.php• www.youtube.com/watch?v=dEJiHHdjGeI&feature=related• www.treesforlife.org.uk/forest/ecological/mycorrhizas.html• www.permaculture.co.uk/articles/plants-and-fungi-using-beneficial-mycorrhizal-fungi-boost-plant-growth• www.carbongold.com• www.wiserearth.org/event/view/712b3cdeee2aa5953f103dd0413e305f

Phacellia

Water conservation

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Water conservationWith water shortage likely to becomemore commonplace people will needalternatives to using mains water and agarden hose to water gardens.

With hose pipe bans increasing, savingwinter rainfall will continue to be the bestoption.Fit a water butt in your garden ifyou do not have one.They can beattached to down pipes from gutteringaround roofs.Consider one for the frontand one for the back garden.They canhave a cascade system to avoidoverflowing andmaximise rain collection.

Drip feedingBuy a piece of hose, or if you have anold garden hose then this is ideal tomake holes in and wind through thegarden.Attaching the leaky hose to awater butt with a tap allows you towater slowly but steadily in dry spellswhich will benefit the plant more than asudden rush from a watering can.

PlantingWhenplanting out anything fromseedlings to trees, fill planting holes ortrencheswith a good amount ofhomemade compost first.Once you haveplaced your plant in the holewithmorecompost,water well before covering,witha dry soil layer on the surface.This helpsto prevent evaporation and reducewaterloss andwill give the plant a good start

and reduce the need for a lot of futurewatering. If you are on chalk and havevery free draining soil, lining plantingholes/trencheswith corrugatedcardboard or newspaperwill also help,but add a handful of nitrogen rich chickenmanure pellets to balance the highcarbon content of the cardboard/paper.

Whenwatering using a watering cangive plants a really good soak,aiming thewater spout right at the soil where theroots will be and not at the plant leaves –a short burst only wets the surface anddoes not go down to the roots. If you usea greenhouse thenmake sure that allplants and seed trays are set up in largersolid based trays to catch any water as itseeps through after watering.

Water butt cascade

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Mulched Broad Beans

Plastic bottle bed

MulchingMulching is a very good way ofpreventing evaporation as well asreducing weeds, or need for weeding.Plants must be watered well beforemulch is added and materials such aswood chip and manure should becomposted for over a year before use,otherwise vital nitrogen from your soilwill be used as they break down andnearby plants may be affected.A varietyof materials can be used for mulching:

� compost straw (check it hasn’t beensprayed with herbicides)

� grass cuttings – light layer best� wood chippings – not freshly cut� well rottedmanure – can be added toa compost heap first

� gravel

Plastic bottle bedYou can use re-cycled plastic bottles tocreate a micro climate which insulatesthe plants from extreme temperatures.Surround a growing bed with largeplastic bottles 3/4 filled with water.

The water will heat up during the dayand slowly cool down overnight,keeping the temperature moreconstant.The high sides of the bottlescan also help protect against strongcold winds which can harm tenderyoung plants even in May and June, andhelp slow down evaporation from thebed, reducing the need for watering.

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Further information

• www.bethchatto.co.uk/gravel.html• www.kew.org/science-conservation/save-seed-prosper/millennium-seed-bank/visit-the-millennium-seed-bank/index• www.pfaf.org/user/default.aspx

Leaves and stems have developed waysto combat drought such as silver,waxyor hairy leaves. Choosing plants withthese characteristics rather thanstruggling to continue with plants thatare less adaptable to highs and lows oftemperature and unpredictableweather will save a lot of work andheartache.

Sedum,houseleeks, alliums,berberis,crocosmia,echinacea, cranesbill, iris, andgrasses are just a few of themanydrought tolerant plants available, a goodnursery will be able to advise further.

Choosing suitable plantsThis doesn’t mean that we all have togrow olives, although thats a possibility!Its more about looking for ‘toughcookie’plants that will just get on with

it, and hunker down in inclementconditions.Growing perennials,whichwill come up every year,will use lesswater than annual bedding plants andbe less affected by drier springs.

If those chosen are edible so much thebetter – the more you can grow tograze from in your own garden, the lessCO2 producing transport will beneeded to bring us food.

Herbs are a good example of an attractivefood plantwhich have the added benefitof being good for pollinating insects,especially bees.Chives, rosemary,oregano,fennel and sage are all able to copewithextremes in temperature due to thestructure of their leaves.They do not relishwater logged soil, so caremust be takento provide good drainage.

Plants to grow Above:Houseleek

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PermacultureThe word ‘permaculture’ is derived fromthe two phrases ‘permanent agriculture’and ‘permanent culture’. It is a system ofdesign for improving all aspects of ourlives, and encompasses efficient ways togarden and grow particularly suited toadapting to a variable climate. Coursesare run locally by BrightonPermaculture Trust, see link below.

Forest GardeningA good structure of edible shrubs, andtrees if you have room,will provideshelter, stability and dappled shade.Growing plants in a stacking method,with fruit and nut trees, then bushesunderplanted with perennialvegetables, herbs and flowers creates amore natural and self reliant system.Thelink below to Martin Crawford’s forestgarden in Dartington also hasinformation about Mycorrhizal fungi.

One of the many benefits of this type ofgrowing is less need for maintenance,weeding is greatly reduced with plantscovering all the soil surface, but withroots using different levels of the soil sothey are not in direct competition.

Further information

• www.brightonpermaculture.org.uk• www.agroforestry.co.uk/forgndg

Right: Red tailed bee on chive flowers

Determined Radish seedling

Different methodsof growing

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Ediblemeadows

Further information•www.nationaltrust.org.uk/wakehurst-place•www.rhs.org.uk/Gardening/Sustainable-gardening/Gardening-in-a-changing-climate

Urban gardens in particular are veryimportant ‘soakaways’ and it is vital thatlawns and beds are not paved over.They play a crucial role in reducinglocalised flooding.

The hangingmeadow in the LoderValley Reserve atWakehurst Place is cutonce a year according to traditionalmethods.Over the past century, the areaof meadowmanaged using traditionalmethods in the UK has dropped by 97%.

Most peoplewith garden space leave anarea to lawn,with all themowing and care

that this entails.A beautiful,productivealternative is tomanage the area as anextra food source – for you and the bees!

Chalk downland can have as many as 30different species per square metre, sothe wealth of plant choice is enormous.Add to this a rethink about plants whichare usually ousted such as Daisy,Cloverand Dandelion which are all edible(great added to salads), and instead of asterile green sward you could have anarea packed with interest andsupporting a huge amount of insect life.

Showgarden,Chelsea flower show

Meadow lawn at Great Dixter

•www.greatdixter.co.uk

All photographs by Sarah Rideout

Common Cause20 North StreetLewes East SussexBN7 2PEtel: 01273 470900www.commoncause.org.uk