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86 AUSTIN MONTHLY JUNE 2011
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Austin is an ever-evolving place.
Y,ALLMADE IT!
NEWCOMERS’
JUNE 2011 AUSTIN MONTHLY 87
By May Cobb, Leila Kalmbach and KK YoungPhoto by Matthew Mahon
Makeup by Avery Allen Hair by Dustin Nix of N Salon Models (from left) Molly Alfred Durham Ezzell Nathan Jones Katy Dunlap Shot on location at Top Notch
88 AUSTIN MONTHLY JUNE 2011
Our Town
If you’re going to call yourself an Austinite, you must know these sites.
STEVIE RAY VAUGHAN STATUEWhen the rock icon
died in a helicopter
crash in 1990 at age
35, Austinites rallied
to erect this statue at
Auditorium Shores.
MOUNT BONNELLOne of the highest
peaks in Austin at 775
feet above sea level,
Mount Bonnell offers
sweeping views of
Lake Austin and the
city’s skyline.
BARTON SPRINGS POOLPerhaps the most
beloved summertime
destination of Aus-
tinites young and old,
this spring-fed pool
remains a chilly 68
degrees year-round.
THE STATE CAPITOLMade of sunset-red
granite, the capitol
is both stunning and
registered as a Nation-
al Historic Landmark.
AUSTIN MURALThis 10-by-20-foot
mural on the side of
South First Street’s
Roadside Relics looks
like a retro postcard.
"HI, HOW ARE YOU?" ARTJeremiah the Inno-
cent, as the bug-eyed
frog in the mural on
The Drag is affec-
tionately known, has
been decorating the
city since 1993.POPULATION: 790,390, according to the 2010 Census COUNTY: Travis AREA CODE: 512 POLICE: 974-5000 FIRE: 974-4100
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A view of downtown in the 1960s
NEWCOMERS’
The Basics
JUNE 2011 AUSTIN MONTHLY 89
The Big EventsWhatever you’re into, Austin has a festival that will give you a heaping portion of it
For 10 days each March, people con-
verge on Austin for this film, music
and interactive festival. Started in
1987 by Louis Black and Nick Bar-
baro of The Austin Chronicle, the fest
has exploded over the past 25 years.
Austinites are obligated to complain
about the traffic problems it causes,
but you can still don your neon sun-
glasses and join in on the fun.
Covering three days and eight sepa-
rate stages in Zilker Park, the Austin
City Limits Music Festival hosts more
than 130 of the biggest and best bands
from around the world each year.
The festival, which was named after
PBS’s live music series, has been go-
ing strong since 2002 and now draws
more than 70,000 attendees each fall.
The city that’s home to Richard Lin-
klater and Robert Rodriguez has been
hosting a stellar film festival since 1994.
It’s no secret that traffic is a pain in this town, but there are options if you want to keep your ride parked
CAR2GOThis car-sharing company owns the
fleet of blue-and-white two-seater
Smart Cars you’ll see around town.
Once you’re a member, find current
vehicle locations online, then reserve
a car in advance or just walk up and
hop in. Bonus: The company has
dedicated parking spots downtown.
METRORAILLet’s be honest: For most people, the
MetroRail line is not very useful. This
32-mile rail line links downtown with
the city of Leander. Service is cur-
rently limited to morning and evening
rush hours, but plans for expansion
are in the works.
BUSESDepending on where you need to go,
Capital Metro buses can usually get
you there—though slowly. The bus is
a great option for going downtown
or to the UT area, where parking is a
competitive sport.
You Have To Take The Bad With The Good
GRACKLES are ubiquitous here. Though it’s cool to see them take off en masse, the birds are a nuisance when parking downtown. Word to the wise: If the sidewalk is covered in white splotches, your car will be, too.
CHASING CARS
SOME LIKE IT HOT
SNEEZE IT OUT
The October event includes eight days
of conferences, screenings and parties.
You might think a kite festival is an
idea that wouldn’t really fly, but the
Austin Kite Festival has been delight-
ing the masses for 83 years. Complete
with a kite-making workshop, flying
demonstrations and mass kite ascent,
the main event at this Zilker Park–
based festival every March is the kite
contest. Competitors vie for titles
such as largest, strongest-pulling and
most unusual.
Started in 1995 by then-First Lady
of Texas Laura Bush, a former librar-
ian, this festival now boasts around
40,000 attendees, and consists of
author readings, panel discussions,
book signings and more. Big name
author attendees have included Su-
san Orlean, Buzz Aldrin and Barack
Obama—before he was president.
90 AUSTIN MONTHLY JUNE 2011
Burnt-Orange CrushBASEBALL
NEWCOMERS’
Sports
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FORMULA ONE
ROLLER DERBY
No one likes going to the DMV, but SWITCHING YOUR OUT-OF-STATE DRIV-ER’S LICENSE TO A TEXAS ONE MUST HAPPEN WITHIN 90 DAYS. Here’s what you need to know: You must have an up-to-date ve-hicle inspection before you can get a Texas driver’s license, and if you move apartments or houses, you have only 30 days to update your license. If you have a valid out-of-state driver’s license, bring it with you to the DMV to avoid taking the writ-ten and driving exams. You’ll still have to pass a vision test, though. Visit txdps.state.tx.us/ driverlicense/moving totexas.htm for more information.
HIGHER EDUCATION: University of Texas at Austin, St. Edward’s University, Huston-Tillotson University, Austin Community College
Road WarriorsCycling is a huge thing in Austin—a resident named Lance Armstrong may have something to do with it
>Armstrong’s bike shop, Mellow Johnny’s, is housed in a bright and airy
historic warehouse downtown. Com-
plete with a cafe, $1 showers and regu-
lar rides and events, the shop seeks to
“introduce people to a bike life.”
>With three locations in town, includ-
ing a huge store on South Lamar,
Bicycle Sport Shop is a well-rounded
store that caters to the entire cycling
community, from commuters and pro
racers to families.
>Adjacent to the hike-and-bike-trail,
Jack and Adam’s is Austin’s go-to spot
for all things triathlon, including gear,
bikes and training.
>Eastside Pedal Pushers, a no-frills
shop in East Austin, offers reasonably
priced repairs and a selection of new
and used bikes. Prior to opening his
shop, owner Lee Gresham was involved
in Yellow Bike Project, a nonprofit that
offers repair and maintenance education
and provides bikes to those in need.
As this issue goes to press, the Senate
will be voting on the “Complete Streets” bill. If passed, it would require the Texas
Department of Transportation to incor-
porate more pedestrian lanes and bike
lanes in new or refurbished roads. Austin
is already doing a good job of that. A
Downtown Bicycle Boulevard on Rio
Grande and Nueces streets is slated for
completion in parts between now and
the end of 2012. Also, the Pfluger Bridge Extension is now open, providing an
overpass at Cesar Chavez that connects
to the Lance Armstrong Bikeway. Plan-
ning your next ride? The City of Austin's
website has a mapping feature that
shows you the safest, most direct routes.
For an easy ride in a scenic setting, try
the 10-mile hike-and-bike trail around
Lady Bird Lake. Keep in mind that
the trail’s unwritten speed limit is 10
mph. More of a mountain biker? The
809-acre Barton Creek Greenbelt is
a must-ride. The Veloway, a 3.1-mile
paved loop for bike and rollerblading
traffic only, is perhaps the most stress-
free place in town to ride. In North
Austin, head to Walnut Creek Metro Park, a tangled web of intermediate
mountain bike trails that are easy to
get lost in. Shoal Creek Greenbelt runs
all the way from 38th Street to the
hike-and-bike trail, while the bike path
along Waller Creek offers a nice north-
south route that winds through UT.
The scene at a Longhorn football game. Hook ’em!
92 AUSTIN MONTHLY JUNE 2011
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Little Spaces, Big Flavors
TRAILER-PACKED AREAS:
Meat MadnessWe have an insatiable appe-tite for barbecue, and luckily, there are plenty of options
Try the amaz-ing brisket. For more, see page 173.
You can’t call yourself an Austinite until you’ve visited this famous joint outside the city. Opt for the family-style meal and sample all the meats.
Known for its tender meats and tasty breakfast tacos.
If you’re downtown and craving beef ribs, this is your spot.
This upscale joint puts a gourmet spin on barbecue with offer-ings such as beef brisket with a brown-sugar-and-coffee rub.
Try the five- meat sampler and be sure to get a side of the delicious homemade bread.
Queso All AroundSeven must-try Mexican and Tex-Mex joints in town
.
UCHI AND UCHIKO Executive
Chef Tyson Cole was
nominated for a 2011
James Beard Award.
FOREIGN & DOMESTIC It was
named austin360.com’s
Newcomer of the Year
for upscale dining in
2010 and included in a
list of places for great
bar food in Bon Appetit.
PARKSIDE This
French-inspired restau-
rant has received men-
tions in Bon Appetit and Esquire.
LA CONDESA
Nominated for a James
Beard Award for Best
New Restaurant in
the Country.
PERLA’S Named one
of the best new restau-
rants in the country by
Esquire in 2009.
Seems like the food in Austin gets better every year, and the rest of the nation is starting to notice
Once you’ve lived in a world with
abundant breakfast tacos, you can't
go back. Everyone has a favorite,
from Juan in a Million to Maria’s Taco
Xpress, but Tacodeli. Torchy’s and
Polvos usually top the list.
GARRIDO’S SAZONGUERO’S POLVOS
CHUY’S FONDA SAN MIGUEL
EL CHILE
The popular trailers on South Congress Avenue
NEWCOMERS’
Food & Music
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Tune InYou can’t go wrong with a concert at these big venues
STUBB’S BAR-B-Q’S
THE BACKYARD
ANTONE'S
MOHAWK
THREADGILL'S
CONTINENTAL CLUB
THE BROKEN SPOKE
Austinites are super friendly, but everyone could use a little extra help making friends. Since the city has a huge tech industry, MEETING NEW PEOPLE through the Internet is a no-brainer. Meetup.com helps you find or start a meetup based on interests, couchsurf-ing.org can be a good way to find individuals with shared interests, especially travelers and the monthly Big Ass Twitter Happy Hour is also a great way to connect, and you don’t have to be on Twitter to attend.
SRV AND WILLIE ASIDE, THERE
ARE PLENTY OF LOCAL ARTISTS
TO ADD TO YOUR IPOD. HERE ARE
12 SONGS TO DOWNLOAD ASAP.
> KMAG YOYO Hayes Carll
> SORROW NO MORE Erin Ivey
> WAITIN' 'ROUND TO DIE
Townes Van Zandt
> SISTER LOST SOUL
Alejandro Escovedo
> THE FITTED SHIRT Spoon
> LA PIEDRA DE LA IGUANA
The Bright Light Social Hour
> TRUCK The Octopus Project
> (HEY BABY) QUE PASO
Texas Tornados
> MUSTANG RANCH
Black Joe Lewis
> LOST COASTLINES
Okkervil River
> ENTRANCE SONG
The Black Angels
> I HAD MY HOPES UP HIGH
Joe Ely —PAUL CARRUBBAe
Matt & Kim at ACL Fest 2010
94 AUSTIN MONTHLY JUNE 2011
Art and SoulOur city’s art scene is getting bigger each year
SHOW TIMEResidents are a bit spoiled when it
comes to live theater. We have ZACH Theatre, the oldest continuously oper-
ating theater in Texas, which features
more than 500 shows each year. In
the summer, Zilker Park Productions
presents free plays and musicals at the
Hillside Theater. And Austin Playhouse
brings classic and new shows to its
South Congress stage.
THAT’S CLASSICAustinites march to their own eclectic
beat, but they also appreciate the fine
arts. The 100-year-old Austin Symphony
puts on concerts from September to
May. Meanwhile, the Austin Lyric Opera
projects English translations on a screen
so audience members can understand
foreign productions. Looking for some
jazz? Head to the Elephant Room for
smooth jazz tunes in an intimate venue.
IN THE GROOVENamed “one of the nation’s best kept
ballet secrets” by The Washington Post, Ballet Austin is the real deal.
Each year, the company puts on five
productions at The Long Center.
REEL STARHome to big-name directors including
Robert Rodriguez, Richard Linklater
and Mike Judge, Austin’s film industry
offers filmmakers an accessible, vibrant
canvas. Recent films shot here include
Terrence Malick’s Tree of Life and Lin-
klater’s upcoming Bernie. Interested in
becoming an extra? You’ll need a recent
snapshot of yourself with your contact
information and age clipped to the
back. To find out about local produc-
tions, check the casting calls link at
www.governor.state.tx.us/film.
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BOOMING AREAS: Travis Heights, Clarksville, Downtown, Lakeway and the East Side, to name a few. For more, look for our July issue, which will feature thriving neighborhoods and developments in the city.
NEWCOMERS’ Catch a Flick
Art, history or both—we’ve got it covered
THE MODERNISTThe Austin Museum of Art recently
announced it would be vacating
its downtown location this fall and
focusing on The Laguna Gloria
location, housed in Clara Driscoll’s
1916 villa overlooking Lake Austin. It
features nature-inspired paintings,
drawings and photographs.
THE HISTORIANAt the Bob Bullock Texas State History Museum, visitors can hear
the “Story of Texas” and check out
three floors of interactive exhibits,
a special effects show and the
city’s only IMAX theater.
THE INTELLECTUALWith more than 17,000 works of
art, the Blanton Museum of Art could take you days to explore. The
museum’s focus, Western European
art from the 14th through the 20th
centuries, provides a stark contrast
with its substantial collection of
modern and contemporary pieces.
THE CULTURISTTexas’ strong Mexican influence is
on full display at the Mexic-Arte Museum, where exhibitions focus
on contemporary Mexican, Latino
and Latin art. About 75,000 visi-
tors tour the museum each year.
THE PURISTThe Harry Ransom Center is part
humanities research library and
part museum, and it showcases
truly original artifacts. For an
in-depth look at the center, see
“Living History” on page 108.
Arthouse at the Jones CenterThis recently
renovated non-
profit features
commissioned
and contempo-
rary art.
Okay Mountain Patrons can
tour a variety of
media, includ-
ing sound art
and murals, at
this collective
of 10 artists.
Yard Dog Art Gallery Though it’s
founded on
old-school folk
art and deep
Southern flavor,
this gallery
shows plenty of
contemporary
pieces.
Women and Their Work
For more than
30 years, this
visual and
performing arts
organization
has celebrated
women artists
via exhibitions,
performances,
readings and
workshops.
The Paramount
Art & Outdoors
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Our Great Outdoors
> If there’s a
physical gateway
to summer, Bar-ton Springs Pool is it. Though it’s
open year-round,
the 68-degree
swimming hole
is packed in the
summer.
> With tur-
quoise waters,
a grotto and a
45-foot waterfall,
Hamilton Pool is almost a fairy
tale of a natural
water feature.
> Once the focal
point of the Deep
Eddy Bathing
Beach Resort,
Deep Eddy Pool, built in 1915, is
the oldest pool
in Texas and at-
tracts a steady
stream of swim-
mers looking to
escape the heat.
As with many aspects of life in Austin, the ebb and flow of HOUS-ING AVAILABILITY has much to do with UT’s schedule. You’ll have an easier time finding a place in June, when school’s out and students are home for the summer, than you will in August, when it’s starting back up. But there’s good news even for late-summer searchers: Apartment locators don’t charge for their services like they do in many cities, so get all the help you can. Craigslist is also a good resource for housing.
Feel like you’re melting? Head to these watering holes
Nothing feels better on a 100-degree day than taking a dip in Barton Springs Pool
96 AUSTIN MONTHLY JUNE 2011
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Pooch ParadiseDog parks to explore with your four-legged friend
This fenced-in dog
park features small-dog and large-dog
areas, as well as plenty of water bowls
and seating for humans.
A picturesque park on
Lady Bird Lake, Red Bud Isle is heaven
on earth for water dogs.
The park is a
local favorite, as it offers scenic skyline
views and plenty of room to play fetch.
A sprawling blanket of
green Bermuda grass beckons visitors
to play catch or Frisbee with their dogs.
>Auditorium
Shores
>Shoal Creek
Greenbelt >Zilker Park
>Norwood Estate >Red Bud Isle
>West Austin Park
>Walnut Creek District Park
>Davis White
Northeast
District Park
>Emma Long
Metropolitan Park
>Onion Creek
District Park
Whether you’re headed out to dine, sip or toast, you don’t have to leave your favorite pooch at home. Check out these 10 dog-friendly eateries.
AUSTIN JAVAMOZART’SPROGRESSGINGER MAN (DOGS AL-LOWED UNTIL 9 P.M.) LUSTRE PEARL THE TINIEST BAR IN TEXASMAX’S WINE DIVEJUSTINE’SFREDDIE’S PLACEMOONSHINE
Animal Planet
Auditorium Shores
NEWCOMERS’
Pets & Kids
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Kidville
GUADALUPE Street is pronounced
GWA-da-LOOP
MANCHACA Road is
called Man-SHACK
KOENIG This lane
(also called 2222) is
pronounced KAY-nig
BURNET This road
sounds like Burn-IT
BUDA This town is
pronounced BYU-da
MANOR The road
and nearby town sound
like MAY-ner
In this city, sometimes pronouncing names of roads or towns completely wrong just feels right
Depending on where you choose to live, YOU MAY NOT HAVE MUCH CHOICE IN YOUR INTERNET AND CABLE COMPANY. Austin is served by Time Warner Cable, AT&T, Grande Com-munications and CLEAR, but not every provider covers all parts of town. Call the companies to ask if you’re able to get service in your area.
Schlitterbahn’s Squirt ‘n’ Sliden area
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1 Lee LeffingwellMayor
2 Marc OttCity Manager
3 Meria CarstarphenAISD
Superintendent
4 Art AcevedoPolice Chief
5 Rhoda Mae Kerr Fire Chief
6 Brad WomackBar owner and
ABC’s “Bachelor”
7 Willie NelsonMusician
8 Michael DellPC guru
9 Lance ArmstrongCycling star,
philanthropist
10 Susan AntoneAntone’s owner
11 Terry LickonaAustin City Limits producer
12 Sandra Bullock Oscar
winner, local
restaurant owner
13 Robert RodriguezDirector
14 JimmieVaughanMusician
15 Richard LinklaterDirector
16 Rick BarnesUT men's basket-
ball head coach
17 Mack BrownUT football
coach
18 Amy SimmonsOwner of Amy’s
Ice Creams
19 John MackeyWhole Foods
co-founder
20 Tyson ColeChef (Uchi,
Uchiko)
21 Woody WoodeMusician on the
Lady Bird Lake
hike-and-bike trail
22 Dick ClarkArchitect
23 Andy LangerKGSR radio per-
sonality, Esquire
contributor
24 Dale DudleyKLBJ radio
personality,
Austin Monthly
columnist
25, 26 Andy Roddick & Brooklyn DeckerTennis star and
model-actress
27 Liz LambertHotelier (Hotel
San José, Hotel
Saint Cecilia)
28 Ellen Jefferson Executive Director,
Austin Pets Alive!
29 Bridget Dunlap Bar
owner (Lustre
Pearl, Clive Bar)
30 Bob SchneiderMusician
31 Juan MezaOwner of Juan in
a Million, master
hand-shaker
32 Louis BlackCo-founder of
The Austin Chron-icle and South by
Southwest
33 Evan SmithCEO of The Texas
Tribune, former
Texas Monthly
editor
34 Mike LevyTexas Monthly
founder
35, 36 Karrie & Tim LeagueOwners: Alamo
Drafthouse,
The Highball
In a town with
as much history
as Austin, ghost
folklore is in-
evitable. At the
historic Driskill Hotel down-
town, legend
has it that a
senator’s young
daughter was
chasing a ball
when she fell
to her death on
the grand stair-
case. It's been
reported that
the ghost girl
and her ball are
still sometimes
seen in the
opulent lobby.
The past also
seems to live
on at the The Tavern on West
12th Street. The
rumor goes:
In the 1940s,
a prostitute
named Emily
was carrying
her daughter
when she was
caught in the
crossfire of two
men arguing at
the bar. Neither
Emily nor her
daughter sur-
vived, and now
both have been
spotted in the
bar’s second-
floor window.
Emily also
shoulders the
blame for chan-
nels mysteri-
ously changing
on the bar’s
televisions and
dishes crash-
ing to the floor.
Not even the
State Capitol is immune to
ghost stories.
There, a woman
wearing a long,
flowing red
dress has been
spotted on
more than one
occasion float-
ing through
the halls near
the legislative
library. And at
Central Market on 38th Street,
which was
the site of the
Austin State
Hospital in
the 1850s, it's
rumored that
tortured souls
still wander the
store aisles.
36 Austinites You Should Know
NEWCOMERS’
The Driskill Hotel's grand
staircase
People & Places
916
14
821
17
3
7
18
3128
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Hit the Road
SAN MARCOS
NEW BRAUNFELS
SAN ANTONIO
LOCKHART
FREDERICKSBURG
San Antonio’s Mission San José
100 AUSTIN MONTHLY JUNE 2011
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Keep Austin WeirdRECYCLED ART
LOCAL ICON
GET YOUR WEIRD FIX: Museum of the Weird, Ginny's Little Longhorn Saloon, Museum of Natural and Artificial Ephemerata
You can’t call yourself a true Austinite until you’ve had a Leslie sighting
NEWCOMERS’
Quirky Qualities
JUNE 2011 AUSTIN MONTHLY 101
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PARTY TIME
TRIMMED TREES
BURGER BREAKUP
PERPETUAL HOLIDAY
What’s Your Type?Retro Austinite Hipster Cowboy Fashionista Tech Guy Parent
SHOP N/A (you’ve been wear-
ing the same clothes since
the '70s)
SHOP Buffalo Exchange, Domy Books, Urban Outfitters
SHOP Allens Boots,
Heritage Boots
SHOP The Domain, 2nd
Street District or along South Congress
SHOP Apple, Bang & Olufsen,
Banana Republic
SHOP Izzy and
Ash, Terra Toys
EAT Food trucks, such as East Side King,
Torchy's Tacos and Lucky J’s
EAT Texas Land & Cattle,
Driskill Grill, The Salt Lick
EAT See-and-
be-seen places
like Trace, Con-
gress or Uchi
EAT Anywhere
in The Domain (North, Sushi Zushi)
EAT Amy’s Ice
Creams, Shady Grove, Alamo Drafthouse
GO OUT Anywhere on the
East Side (The Liberty, Shangri-La,
Longbranch Inn)
GO OUT
Broken Spoke, Donn’s Depot
GO OUT West Sixth (Union Park, Dogwood) or the Ware-house District (Seven,
Hangar Lounge)GO OUT Inflatable
Wonderland, the Central
Market patio on North
Lamar, Austin Children’s Museum,
Playland Skat-ing Center
GO OUT To a Spazmatics
show, Kung Fu Saloon
EAT Wheatsville
Food Co-Op, Kerbey Lane
Cafe
GO OUT Waterloo Records, Hippie Hollow