Wyatt Turner's Lamborghini Miura Tutorial Page 1

Wyatt Turner's Lamborghini Miura Tutorial Page 1

http://www.3dvault.net/Wyatt/one.html[22/09/2010 03:37:55 p.m.]

RHINO3D 2.0 Skill Level: Medium Advanced User

Lamborghini Miura Car modeling Tutorial

Link to some Blueprints http://smcars.nd4spdworld.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=39 _____________________________________ Section 1

Research and Blueprints

Inserting Blueprint image for tracing with Control point Curves. This may take a few minutes, after it is created you should scale it up or down to match the dimensions if you can find them, if not don’t worry about it.

Overall length 171.6 inches Overall width 69.2 inches Overall height 41.5 inches Wheelbase 98.4 inches Track (front and rear) 55.6 inches

Don’t forget to get a bunch of images of the car your modeling,, or better yet get a model of it, this should help in some of the more complex areas that cannot be seen in the Blueprints (PLANS).

Setup a few layers, such as Body,Trim,Windows,Tires,Wheels,Tail-Pipe and lights The layers for the lights may have many parts, I would make a few layers, such as (TL=Tail-light) TL-Bulb, TL-Red-Glass, (HL=Head-Lights) HL-GlassHL-Chrome, and so on and on,, such as the orange blinkers have parts to them.

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Place the JPG or other image file as background in top View Port.

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Create Layers for your model and a layer for your Blueprint curves. We will lock this layer later when we start to model.



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This is what my traced blueprint looks like, I kept is pretty basic. I traced half the car then mirrored it, but watch out for the windshield wipers and any otheritems that might differ from each side of the car

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I now rotated the views to match the viewports and moved the rear view to the other side of the car,, toward the rear,, duh… =D I then scaled the car up, I drew a line off the bottom of the front wheel quadrant, and then went 98.4 units toward the rear tire, I can see that my car is toosmall, select the traced blueprint and scale it from the front tire quadrant and reference the rear tire quadrant and go to the end point of the 98.4 unit (inches)line we drew. Now the car should be to approximate scale.



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Your screen should end up something like this, in the top view I can see the top of the car and the right view I can see the back and front of the car and thefront view I can see the side of the car. Works best for me this way, rotate how ever you like them to layout in your viewports.

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Basic Lofted form

This section should give you the basics and understanding where of modeling a car with Lofts and other surfaces. Pulling CV points and adding in Knotsadjusting Knot weights.

We will create half the car with lofts from front to back cross section, I will start off with a block that will contain the mid-section of the car, No A-pillers,Roof top or glass.

After the main portion is lofted out and the front and rear section of the car is created, by pulling CV points to match the blue prints.



I then will now continue to add CV points and pull the upper half of the car out of the lower half. The will easily create a smooth continuous body structure.It will is most cases be too smooth. You will need to adjust the CV points around the bottom of the A-piller and around any glass areas. Look mostly wherethe edge of the glass will be and be sure that it stays fairly flat, with a slight curve from top to bottom. You will not want it to have a bend at the top ofbottom of the glass, in most cases car windows roll up and down. It might be a obvious to some people but keep it in mind. I see it happen all the time. Evenon some of my cars.

When half the car shape is modeled out save the file as title-version-1.3dm_________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Create a new layer for LOFTS, make it a bright color, I changed the Curves layer so the blueprint would be a dark gray color. The loft curve will be easier tosee in the magenta color I chose.

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Here is the basic cross section that I made with a Control Point Curve. Only half the car will be drawn.



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We will copy around 8 of these and loft them into a surface. Going from front to rear of the car. They are placed around each wheel arch and at peek changesin the roof top, We can add more of them as needed later.

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This is the end result of the loft, now we have something to deform and point pull the car into the shape we will want.



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I start with the nose of the car and start pulling points into the shape of the mouth opening of the car. I then use the Shear command and the Move commandto adjust the points. I selected the row of points that were the group next to the end ones I was editing and smooth them (0.2) in the xyz, not the bottom points or the ones on thecenter line of the car, I just want them to flow closer to the mouth opening.

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I adjusted the front point and lowered a few of the top points to match the blueprint. Shear, move and smooth was used around the outer edge, between the upper and lower lip area of the mouth, I trying to keep this area smooth but stillconform with the blueprints. I shade the viewport from time to time to check the surface smoothness.



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I now adjusted the rear and the dip in the middle, Moving and shear worked well here. Most of the side view is pulled into place.

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Now I’m going to add about 2 rows of CV’s around the front of the windshield area, so I don’t deform the wheel arch. *Only added CV’s in the V directionand without symmetry.



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Selecting these points and moving them up to the rooftop area. I used the Scaled 1D, pick near the roof top on the blueprint and then the bottom area wherethe points are perpendicular. Then Scale them back to the top of the roof,, you could use the move command here but doing it with the scale 1d command itwill level out the points in a flat plane.

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After I scaled them upward I pulled (Moved) the outer ones to the peek outer edge of the rooftop.



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From the front view your will notice that the outer rail of the roof need to be moved inward so the roof and side window tilts or tapers inward.

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The rear wheel body flare needs to bulge outward like on the plan. Selecting the outer body points I will pull the flare outward using the move command.



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I noticed I needed another set of CV’s going from the front to the rear, the body was blending to much around the rear wheel flare

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http://www.3dvault.net/Wyatt/two.html[22/09/2010 03:40:07 p.m.]

I added another set of CV’s across the front the windshield. I moved points to match the blueprints, It’s a bit tricky in this area. Make sure is rounds out tothe middle and adjust any of the rooftop points so they flow in the same directions, keeping a 2 sets of points near the A-Piller for a rounded edge aroundthe top of the roof side rail.

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Another hard spot is the rear fender edge, there is a hard edge from the bottom of the side window to the rear over the rear wheel arch, I added pointweights that row to make a nice edge.

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Front fender needs to be shaped to flow like a bubble around there and meet the hood area, these are areas that you might need to examine from photos, Iused them allot to understand how it works, same with the rear fender



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Little bit more point pulling around the bottom of the A-piller and rear fender. Keep pulling points little it matches what your after, I added more CV’s from front to rear near bottom of the front bulge, about where those grills are.This is the complex part, but also fun, keep pulling points until your happy its done. Save versions as you go.

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I now Mirror it, and merged the two halves. I notice I was having a hard edge down the middle so I added a row of CV’s with symmetry on, so each sidegets a row, I wanted them near the middle so I had them blend out into the rest of the surface, then I made the center upper edge a periodic edge, this willclose the object at the top edge or bottom edge, I wouldn’t worry to much about the bottom, but I would do it anyways. This just smooths the two halvestogether better.



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Adding Details 1

This section is mostly on splitting the wheel arches and understanding methods to splitting.

Mirror and merge your 2 halves and Save the file as title-version-2.3dm If you find problems down the road with the basic shape you can go back and change it and merge the file back into the newer versions.

We are going to add wheel well openings and any other body deviations, because our body surface will be created from lofts I try to keep it to the basicshape of the car.

Its always a good thing to check your wheel arches a few times, most cars have a curves side from top to bottom, not all of them but there are quite a fewthat do. You will notice mostly on the front of the car that some have little flairs over the wheel arch, these flairs are mostly there for when you look at thecar from the top view so you can’t see the tire, also would be safe to say it keeps any water from escaping the wheel well and splashing up onto thewindows. Cars without these types of covers/ lips/ flairs should be looked at closer, because the top of the arch needs to be flat with the tire orperpendicular to the ground plane. If it exceeds that then you will have that improper look of the car looking kind cut funny and you’ll be able to see thetire from the top view.

Also take note that when splitting out that wheel arch opening that you don’t cut/split into the other body panels like the hood. You may have a hood thatdips down really low. Using a curve projection will help in situations like these. Projection can help in checking all sorts of areas and testing what directionyou should split from. Like making the split out for the windshield will tend to take a few directions to get correct, sometimes from the top or the side. Itend to stick with the top view of the car for the windshield and the side view for the side windows._______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

I started with patching the rear of the car, I made it not tangent to the body surface

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After I patched the rear, I move the rear body edge but selecting the CV’s and moved it about 2 inches away from the patch surface. I then scaled the patchsurface down a little. I then used a BLEND from the edge of the rear of the car body and the patch. I adjusted the BLEND so it was rounding into the patch surface andflattened out into the body.

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Now take the Patch surface and scale it 1d from the middle to the top, scaling it away from that blend we just made, and then do the same in the otherdirection, this is a quick way to offset the surface. I then moved it about 0.25 inch or so into the rear.

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Now blend those two edges from the blend to the patch. The makes the rear slightly recessed into the body, I noticed this from the photos I had.



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Turn on the Blueprints layer so we can project curves onto the body surface. I will project the wheel arches that we traced.

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Now that the Curves are on the surface I have something to split the body with. NOTE: this is a good time to save 2 new files, a backup and a working file. Once you split this baby there is no turning back, unless you were smart and saved a file. =D



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Now its starting to look like a car, I split the body and now I save my file called split surface body. Now let the fun begin.

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Now create a curve that follows the bottom edge of the door, as seen in the blue prints but make sure it passes over the wheel arches edges. Offset thecurve about 0.3 for the seam that will be created there. This will make the belly of the car separate from the top half.



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Now create 2 curves for the rear and 2 for the front of this seam, I tried to make it like a lip that round into the body edge and on the other end rotateupward so you can not see into the car through the seam area. The use the edge of the body for a rail and sweep that with the two edges, using the Sweep 1Rail command. NOTE:After the body was split delete the little trim pieces as you go.

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You can see the upper and lower Sweep 1 Rails.



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Do the same thing with the rear door seam and engine bay seam. I offset the blue print lines, they passed through the top edge and lower split edge.Making it easy to just offset and split them.

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Create a key shape for these 2 seams, like this shape in yellow, this will require using Sweep 2 Rails to make the seam filler. Do this for both Door andengine bay seams. This key is the profile curve for the 2 rails that are the two edges of the body.



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Now go through and split the window and doors out using the same method

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I went through and split the windshield from the top view and split the door and windows with offset curves. Then I moved the side window glass into thebody about 0.5 inches or so. And I used a blend from the door edge and the window edge on both the windshield and side windows.



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http://www.3dvault.net/Wyatt/three.html[22/09/2010 03:41:39 p.m.]

Here I changed the window area to there new layers for the windows. And set those layers to render in different colors

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Section 4

Adding Details 2

This section will explain Seams for Body cuts and Body trim Splitting and Rails are going to be popular here

This is where most of the work comes into play. For creating seams and other body cuts you will need to use a offset set of curves that will either beprojected or split the surface from what ever view that works best. Such as the doors I use a gap of about 0.3. I will then use these new surface edges for Rail surfaces and blends.

We will also make head-lights and tail-lights and other features. Sometimes seams and headlights and tails lights are made from the same split surfaces.

Links

Short Tutorial with body made from Rails

http://www.renderosity.com/messages...Message=1030882

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Well after a few more splitting and copying of the rear louver grill. I made a copy on top of the old set, rotated the copied pieces and rotated them, then Ilofted from each stair step from the rotated one to the old splitted one. I then deleted the other ones.



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Now to make the recessed area in front of the windshield, this area contains the mounting for the wipers. I used the curves from the blueprint, but before Idid that I turned the control points on and used the Snap to point and re-drew the curves as one, because they were mirrored curves before and I wanted themto be an nice continuous curve.

Split the front of the car with this new curve and copy the recessed section down around 1 or 2 inches, then blend or loft from the top edged to the bottomedges, then when done with the closing off of that area, delete the old top surface. I used the edges of the deleted old surface edges for the loft and blend.

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Now split out the center wedge in the middle of the hood, this piece dips down into the front of the car. Shrink to trimmed surface on that new little wedgeand grab the middle points and move them down around 1 inch. Loft the edges or blend them, you could mess around with a few things here. I hope you getthe basic idea of this simple stuff.

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Time to create the headlights, I notice that the big opening in the body panel is oval on the top view and round in the front, I hope to project the circle in thefront view and get the basic oval result in the top view. As you can see in yellow the blueprints curve didn’t project as I would have liked, maybe the plansare not perfect or I maybe off in the model. I’ll go with projection of the oval shape in the top blueprint. Because I want it to look more like that, not toworried about the shape in the front view.



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Now I projected it from the top view and it really sucks,, my car is not flowing in the contour of the original. So I must say I really suck at remaking classics,maybe I’ll blame it on not looking at the full scope of the model and writing this damn tutorial.. hehehe, I’m gonna cheese out here and go back to the laststep and project the circles on the front view and keep going as if nothing ever happened. (This only happens in Tutorial land),

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Make the little ring that will be the Chrome part that goes around the glass lenses. The I will use the shear command in the side view of the car. Hoping thatthe ring stays Circular in the top view. It should then make it look oval in the front view. You might also build the glass bubble for the bulb, before shearing,



I think it might work better.

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Now you can see that the glass and chrome ring still look circular in the top view and oval in the front, just from using the Shear command in the side view.I moved it into better position after the shearing of the surfaces.

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Now its time to make a blend from the bottom of the chrome ring and the outer edge of the headlight socket in the body of the car.



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It should end up looking something like this. I do this allot when making headlights on my concepts.

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Create a continuous curve and use it to split the box like holes in the hood for the air outlets, then scale on side of them down into the body leaving a gap inthe top view of around a inch or so. Recess the cut out piece into the body around 2 or 3 inches,, not sure here, it’s a guess to me, then blend the two edges.Then mirror it to the other half of the car.



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Create the fins/grill that goes inside the outlet,, I will make a extruded shape and fake this area from memory. I copied them an inch apart then sheared themto fit into the body. My body dipped down into the middle too much, I think this area would have been flatter on the original car. I suck once again,, =/

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Once again I noticed something different in the photos than in the blueprints. A black bumper wedged into the opening or mouth in the front of the car. I useda patch that rounded out. Then I scaled it smaller than the opening and did a blend between the gap of the two edges.

I’m going to end it here. This should get you far enough that you should start to be able to make your own decision about how to go around modeling someof the more basic parts. The rear tail lights are quite simple,, you could do a few things project the blue prints onto the rear surface and build them from there.



I’ll make another tutorial on how to make car seats. I’m sure you are smart enough to figure out how to make wheels.

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