WORK IN A NAIL SERVICE FRAMEWORK!. THE SIGNIFICANCE OF PH IN THE NAIL SERVICES pH is a measure of the hydrogen ion concentration in a solution. The scale.

WORK IN A NAIL SERVICE FRAMEWORK!

THE SIGNIFICANCE OF PH IN THE NAIL SERVICES

pH is a measure of the hydrogen ion concentration in a solution. The scale is used universally to show the difference acidity or alkalinity of different substances. The scale ranges from 1 being very acid, to 14 being very alkaline, 7 is a neutral measurement and is the mid-point of the scale

pH Reading: Examples that have this pH reading:

ACIDIC 0 Battery Acid

1 Stomach Acid

2 Nail Primer, citric acid, vinegar

3

4 Oily skin

5 Skin and hair, hand cream, massage cream

6 Nail plate, cuticle cream

NEUTRAL 7 Distilled water

8 Blood, shampoo

9 Cuticle remover, soap

10

11 Depilatories, polymers, monomers

12

13

ALKALINE or BASE

14 Caustic soda

CROSS INFECTION AND HOW IT HAPPENS

Infections can spread between the client and operator, and from client to client. From you to other employees of the salon and even from you to your family and friends. Most people that come into your salon will be free of disease, some will unknowingly have come into contact with a contagious condition, and in some cases may know they have a contagious condition but do not say anything. If you follow the recommended procedures in your state or territories guidelines you and your client will be protected from cross infection.

MICRO-ORGANISMS Micro-organisms are everywhere, most are harmless, some are even needed to maintain our health, however there are some that are harmful to is and cause us illness and disease. The micro-organisms of interest in infection control are bacteria, fungi and viruses.

Bacteria: There is a whole classification system that ptus bacteria into categories. For example ‘golden staph,’ this bacterium that has caused many problems in hospitals. It is a conical in shape, grows in grape like clusters and it has a golden colour. About 20% of the population carries golden staph, they often do not know about it and it may cause them no problems.

Golden Staph

Fungi are also useful micro-organisms to humans. They are used as yeast in bread baking and in making soy sauce. A few are harmful to humans, in the nail service context, usually rare on finger nails but most often found on toe nails or feet. They like warm, moist, dark places. An example of this type of fungi is tinea pedis or ‘athletes foot

Viruses are micro-organisms that we are interested in. They are sub-microscopic infectious agents that are unable to exist outside a cell. These are spread blood-to-blood contact. Examples of viruses; HIV and hepatitis.

Clients are not obliged to tell you they have a blood borne disease like HIV and hepatitis. But you are safe to do treatments on them provided you follow guidelines. If a client reveals to you they have a blood borne disease you must not reveal that information to any other person.

Tinea Pedis

ROUTES OF INFECTION

First- Consider the penetration of the skin, in the nail services it might be through accidental cutting of the clients skin, the instrument is then infected and you must follow the correct sterilisation process

Second- Open wounds or cuts. If you have an uncovered open wound and you accidentally cut the clients skin, the clients blood can enter your body.

Third- Contamination of the instrument, infection travels from one person to another. The correct sterilisation of all instrument you use and stored correctly until they are used again.

Finally- Contaminated waste. This can happen when. For example, you dry a clients feet with a tissue then put it onto a manicure table. The table top is now a potential source of cross contamination.

PREVENTING CROSS- INFECTION

1. Correct hand washing, Both clients and your selves are to wash hands to reduce any micro-organisms that may be present, before and after contact with clients, after contact with body fluid or blood, using a tissue, after smoking, going to the toilet, before and after eating, answering the phone.

2. Risk minimisation examples, washing hands properly, disposable gloves, cover open wounds, disposable equipment where possible, cleaned and disinfected equipment, clean work area, handle sharps correctly, liquid soap and paper towels, waste disposed correctly.

3. Minimising blood to blood contact, follow these steps to protect yourselves and clients; Use proper sanitation and disinfection procedures, don’t work near open wounds, be careful when working with sharp objects, wear disposable gloves.

4. Cleaning and disinfecting equipment, any instrument used on a client should be cleaned with detergent and warm water, dried and either thermally or chemically disinfected. Thermally disinfection (auto clave) uses heat and water at a temperature that destroys most organisms. Most cost effective and efficient method. It is only suitable for items that can be immersed in water and high temperatures. All items must be fully immersed for the time indicated in the table below.

Surface temperature Minimum disinfection time (minute)

90 1

80 10

75 30

70 100

WORKPLACE HAZZARDS Handling chemical products safely. Manufactures make products as safe as possible, but they can only do so much. Their best efforts are undone by a single careless act. It is up to you to learn about the chemicals in products and how to handle them.

Working safe with chemicals; The key to working safely is to understand how the chemicals can adversely affect health and what you can do to prevent this. Every chemical has a safe exposure level. With some chemicals you will know when you have been exposed to them with through smell or your reaction. Some chemicals do not produce any obvious reactions but over a long time you may build up an allergy to them. Professional products are designed to be used safely in salons. You need to read and remember the precautions outlines in the Material Safety Data Sheet. You must follow the manufactures instructions.

Inhalation; Chemicals are said to be volatile when molecules of the chemical escape into the air, you can reduce the amount of vapours in the air by; Closing lids when finished with them, remove rubbish from nail tables after services, put all rubbish in tightly lidded bins and emptied at least once a day, try to eliminate sprays in the salon, ventilation, first aid should be sought if you or a client suffers any reactions.

Absorption; Goggles and gloves will stop the chemical from physically touching your hands and getting in your eyes. Remember that some chemical overexposure builds up over time and suddenly get symptoms such as dermatitis.

Ingestion; This is when the product is swallowed. Do no smoke in the salon or allow client to smokeDo not eat or drink in the salon areaAlways wash your hands before and after eating

MATERIAL SAFETY DATA SHEET

Each MSDS must contain basic item information. MSDS’s will reveal that there is no set format, however, each MSDS must contain information about the identity of chemicals and the hazards they present including;

How the product reacts with other chemicalsSigns and symptoms of overexposure and illness that may be caused by the product and relevant emergency and first air procedures

How product ingredients may enter the body and control and protection measures against this,

Safe limits in the air to prevent overexposure by inhalationCarcinogen hazard of the chemical, i.e whether any ingredient over tenth of a percent is suspected of causing cancer

Precautions and handling proceduresStorage and disposal information.

WORKPLACE HAZARDS- YOUR RIGHTS AND RESPONSIBILITIES

There is an occupational health and safety act in each state and territory. The act will outline the obligations of employers and employees in a workplace.An employee is obligated to take responsible care of their own health and safety and other people who may be affected by the work being done;

You must not take short cuts which could reduce the level of safety. You must follow the workplace safety and policies and procedures. You must not misuse anything provided by the employer which could affect health and safety in the workplace

The employer has an obligation under the act to provide a safe workplace. There are some risks that should be identified and dealt with as necessary.

Electrical safety Fire and evacuationMaterial safety data sheets and correct storage of all chemicalsSpills and fallsFirst aid

THE HUMAN SKIN

The skin is made up of three (3) main layers;

Epidermis, which is the outer most layer, it provides protection to the inside of your body

Dermis, is the deepest skin layer and contains the glands, hair follicles, nerves and blood capillaries.

Hypodermis or subcutaneous layer is made up of adipose (fatty) tissue and is entry point for atteries and veins. The main function is to protect the body through providing a cushioning layer but also plays a role in hormone activity

Various functions of the skin;

Protection, from abrasion, loss of water and keeps the blood supply away from the surface.

Excretion, glands of the skin allow the body to lose heat and water when needed, they also allow the loss of certain salts and wastes from the body.

Sensation, abundant nerve endings and specialised receptors detect changes on the outside of the body.

Immunity, the epidermis contains cells that fight infection when there is damage to the skin

Vitamin D Synthesis, ultra violet light from the sun activates the production of vitamin D.

Body Temperature Regulation- Maintains an even internal body temperature at all times to protect the inner organs.

BONES IN THE ARMS AND HANDS.

The ulna and radius bones make up the forearm, the radius is situated on the thumb side of the arm and is the smaller of the bones. The ulna is larger and is situated on the small finger side of the forearm. These bones overlap each other when we move or twist our arm.

The wrist bones are referred to as the carpal bones. There are 8 carpal bones, all small and irregular in shape. They are arranged in rows of 4 and strapped together by ligaments.

The metacarpal bones and the small bones running across the palm of the hand. There are 5 metacarpal bones lying parallel to one another.

The phalanges (fingers) are small long bones forming the digits. There are 14 in total, 3 in each finger and 2 in the thumb

BONES IN THE LEGS AND FEET

The tibia (shin) is the second largest bone in the human body running down the inside of the lower leg. The tibia has many attachments points for tendons and ligaments, which are important in strapping the knee joint to add strength and stability.

The fibula is the smaller bone on the outer side of the leg. The lower extremity of the fibular bone forms the outer malleolus that is known as the ankle bone.

There are 7 tarsal bones in the ankle of the foot, the talus is the largest bone in the ankle.

The calcaneum is the heel bone, is rest on the ground when we stand.

Metatarsal bones are the 5 bones that make up the top of the foot, they articulate with the tarsals and phalanges. The phalanges are the small bones forming the toes, there are 14 bones in each foot, 3 in each toe and 2 in the big toe.

MUSCLES IN THE LEG.

MUSCLES AND THERE FUNCTIONS;

Muscles lay under the subcutaneous layer of the skin and have very rich blood and nerve supply. Muscles are under control of the ‘voluntary’ nervous system, this means when we move, our skeletal muscles will tell them to move. Most muscles lie over a joint between 2 or more bones, attached to the bones by tendons.

3 main functions of muscles

Move bones

Retain posture or muscle tone

Produce heat

MOVEMENTS ALLOWED BY THE FOREARM AND HAND

Flexion- to bend at a joint

Extension- to straighten or stretch

Abduction- moving the bone away from the body

Adduction- moving the bone towards the body

Rotation- moving the bone around its own axis

Supination- turning the palm of the hand to make palm face up

Pronation- turning the palm of the hand downward

Dorsiflexion- raising the toes towards the knees

Planta flexion- pointing the toes towards the floor

APPEARANCE AND GROSS ANATOMY OF THE HUMAN NAIL

Nails are tightly packed, hard cells of the epidermis of the skin. The technical term for the natural nail is onyx.The main function is to replace the epidermis on the finger tips to protect bacteria and micro-organisms from entering the body..Other functions of the nail include;

Grasping and manipulating objects in various ways

Increasing the sensitivity to feel and touch

Acting as defence tools

Enhancing appearance.

NAIL SHAPE AND SIZES There are many variations in the shape of the nail, including; length, width, cross and length curvature, thickness, strength and stability. Below is an illustration of the different nail shapes you can come across.

NAIL STRUCTURE Free edge- Nail that extends from the end of the nail bed outwards.

Nail plate- Composed of hard keratin, which forms a protective structure for the finger tip. It extends from the matrix to the free edge. The fingernail is made up of around 100 layer of dead keratin cells.

Nail Groove- grooves that channels on either side of the nail plate to protect the sides of the nail plate

Lunula- name of the half moon shape visible through the base of the nail plate. The lunula is the front of the matrix where keratinisation takes place. It is the softest part of the nail.

Eponychium- this is the fold behind the cuticle. It consist of the layer of the epidermis.

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NAIL STRUCTURE CONTINUED; Cuticle- This is the non living tissue that comes from the underside of the eponychium and sticks to the nail plate as it grows out. It is dead tissue and can be gently removed during a manicure

Matrix- the matrix determines the shape and quality of the nails. The matrix is the only living portion of the nail, it produces nail plate cells by mitosis. Matrix damage can cause malformation of the nail plate.

Nail bed- The nail bed lies underneath the nail plate and starts at the matrix and finishes at the free edge. The function of the nail bed is to act as a support for the nail plate.

Hyponychium- Is the fold of skin directly under the free edge

ALL ABOUT THE HUMAN NAIL.

Nails are formed from the outer layer of the epidermis, growth is due to a transition of the superficial cells of the matrix into the hardened transparent nail cells. This process is called keratinisation in which the matrix cells take on keratin, die and harden as a result.

Nails grow at different rates in different people. In a normally healthy adult rate is estimated to be about 1mm per week. If a nail is lost through injury it will grow again as long as the matrix is still alive. A new nail will take several months to grow. Despite what people may think, the nail plate does not need a rest from nail polish or nail enhancements. The nail plate does not depend on oxygen supply to stay healthy because keratin is dead.

A FEW FACTS ABOUT NAIL GROWTH

Nail grows faster in warmer weather

Nail growth is faster in children and slows as we age

Growth in toenails is slower than fingernails

Growth rates among the fingers will vary. For example; the middle finger grows fastest and the thumb the slowest.

Nail grow faster in males than in females

Nails grow faster in daytime

Nails in the dominant hand grow slightly faster than the other hand

Vitamins, calcium or gel cannot stimulate nail growth-nothing can be taken to increase the speed of nail growth

Damage to the cuticle can interrupt nail growth producing a ridge or mark on the surface of the new nail

IDENTIFYING COMMON PROBLEMS ON THE SKIN ON THE HANDS AND

FEET Having knowledge about skin problem, knowing there symptoms and cause of these disorders is important, understanding areas of the skin that may need to be avoided completely or treated gently.

Several treatments of the hands and feet can improve circulation and blood supply and help maintain the health and condition of the skin and nails. In paraffin wax treatments, the heat provided by the warm paraffin encourages blood flow.

Xerosis, is the technical name for ‘dry’ or rough quality skin. The skin needs to be moisturised daily to stay smooth and supple.

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IDENTIFYING COMMON PROBLEMS ON THE SKIN ON THE HANDS AND

FEET

A. Normal skin. The disc like top layer of cells lie parallel.B. Xerosis (dry skin) The disc like top layer of cells are irregularly aligned with

many cells projecting about the skin surface.C. Dry skin after immersion in water. The disc like top layer of cells are

swollen, lacking sharp projectionsD. Dry skin after immersion in water and an application of an oil. A

hydrophobic film overlies the swoolen top layer of cells slowing water loss and making the top layer smooth.

COMMON SKIN PROBLEMS

Psoriasis, a chronic, genetic, on contagious skin disorder that appears in many different forms and can affect any part of the body, including the nails and scalp. The most common type is characterised by raised, thickened patches of red skin covered with silvery white flaky scales

Eczema is a general term encompassing various inflamed skin conditions. The most common forms of eczema is contact dermatitis. This chronic, relapsing and very itchy rash at some point affects about 20% of people. In some people their skin can bubble up and ooze, in others a more scaly, dry and red appearance.

KERATOSES AND PHOTO AGING

The skin on the back of the hand is more regularly exposed to sunlight than many areas of the body, therefore it often shows signs of photo aging such as wrinkles, dry, rough texture and uneven spots.

Liver spots, Also called lentingines or lentigos are sharply defined, rounded, brown or black flat patches of skin which appear invidually or in clusters. While live spots may develop at an early age, but they are more common in older people. The spots are not cancerous, however, on skin exposed to the sun, they may be accompanied by precancerous scaly, red elevations of the skin called actinic keratosis.

Actinic keratoses also called solar keratoses are dry, scaly, rough texturised patches or lesions that form on the outer most layer of the skin after years of exposure to sunlight. These lesions typically range in colour from skin toned to reddish brown and in size from that of a pinhead to larger than a thumbnail. Occasionally, a lesion grows to resemble an animal horn and is called ‘cutaneous horn’

SKIN PIGMENTATION DISORDERS

Vitaligo is a non contagious skin pigmentation disorders that show up as smooth, white, painless spots or patches on various parts of the body. The white areas are due to the loss of pigment (melanin) that gives the skin its colour

Cholasma. Changes due to pregnancy hormones sometimes cause increased secretion of melanin. This results in patches of darker skin called chloasma, on woman’s nose, cheeks or forehead or other parts of the body, these changes will diappear after pregnancy chloasma may also affect women on the pill and those with a liver or hormonal complaint.

CONDITIONS ON THE FEET. Fungal conditions, The foot is covered with 250,000 sweat glands that produce about 1 cup of sweat a day. The moist dark, warm environment created in shoes and socks by sweat provides an ideal situation for fungus and bacteria to grow. Foot problems caused by fungus include:

Smelly feetAthletes foot (tinia pedis) Infected toe nails (onychomycosis)

Planta warts/papillomas, Warts are skin growths caused by viral infections. Planta warts look like small, hard bumps, can have black dots on them and are most commonly found on the soles of the feet. Warts are transmitted but direct contact. Do not treat any client with this condition, Refer to doctor.Corns and Calluses, are caused by friction and pressue from shoes. Calluses are bigger than corns and usually found on the soles of feet. Corns are smaller and oftern have a centeral core of keratin which can be seen. The top of the little toe is the most common spot for corns.

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CONTRAINDICATIONS A contraindication is a condition or factor that serves as a reason to withhold a certain treatment due to the harm that it would cause the patient.

Some examples of contraindications are; Bruising or swelling, open wounds, recent fractures, sprains, surgery, high blood pressure and heart conditions, blood clotting and blood thinning issues, allergic reactions

Tinea Pedis ParonychiaScabies

Beau’s lines May result from severe short term illness, high fevers, drug reactions, pregnancy. Usually due to the matrix slowing production of new cells. Horizontal ridges which can be shallow or deep.

Treat mild cases with gentle buffing. In severe cases the client should seek medical attention.

Blisters FrictionFluid filled pockets between layers of skin.

Gentle pedicure. Do not break the skin. Remember broken skin is a pathway for infection.

Bunions Hereditary tendency, foot injury, neuromuscular disorder.Enlarged bone on the side of the main metatarsal joint of the big toe.

Normal pedicure. No rasping. Gentle massage. Client should wear roomy comfortable shoes.

Calluses Build up of hardened skin in pressure areas. Regular pedicure, exfoliate and moisturise.

Discoloured and stained nails

Circulatory or heart conditions, smoking exposure to environmental chemicals such as dyes

Colour polish can hide the problem. Remember a base coat. Advise to see a medical practitioner.

Heel fissures Dry skin, built up calluses, can become infected Refer serious cases to podiatrist

Koiloncyhia (spoon nails)

Hereditary, occupational causes or perhaps an iron deficiency. Nail plate shaped liked spoon and can be white in colour.

Gentle manicure are appropriate. Condition may correct itself when underlying condition is treated

Leuchonychia Caused by injury or trauma to the nail plate. Small white spots.

Avoid aggressive pushing back of the eponychium.

Onychatrophia Injury of the matrix or systemic disease. Gentle manicure without harsh products. If due to disease, may grow back once treated.

Onychorrhexis Over growth of the nail. Caused by injury or trauma

Thining with a file during pedicure is recomended

Care conditions you can work on and can sometime help improve conditions.

Habit Tic Often a nervous habit where the client continually picks at the nail plate causing ridges in the nail, distressed cuticles and malformed nail.

Regular manicure. Client should be made aware that constant picking at the anil is the cause.

Hammer toes Pressure from shoes causing deformity to the small bones in the toes.

Regular pedicure

Onychophagy Nervous habit where client bites nails and sometimes surroundings

Client needs to stop biting nails, regular manicure or nail enhancements if no infection is present

Pteryguium Usually caused by injury, overexposure to chemcals including formaldehyde and monomers. Can also be hereditary, severe trauma, lichen planus or blood circulation. Skin attached to the nail plate.

Regular manicures to gently condition excess cuticle growth

Splinter haemorrhage

Injury to the nail causing tiny spots of blood seen through the nail plate running length ways

Gentle manicure or pedicure. If client consisstantly presents with this condition refer to medical practitoner

MINIMISE DAMAGE TO SKIN AND NAILS WHEN DOING NAIL SERVICE.

As a nail technician you need to be well trained in the safe practice of nail services and aware of the ways to minimise the potential damage.

Many people believe that nails need a rest from nail enhancements to be exposed to air, in fact, it is the matrix or nail bed that requires the oxygen supply. You role as a professional is to protect the clients nail plate, you should not thin the top layers with chemicals or filing. Filing to hard, for to long and using the electric file creates too much heat will cause damage to the nail beds. Excessive amounts of primer on thin nail plates can make them sensitives.

SKIN AND NAIL DAMAGE THROUGH INFECTION

Some clients ask wether certain products cause fungus and infections. Infection can occur because fungi and bacteria develop in the trapped pockets of air and moisture under a nail enhancement. Sometimes infections can develop under the natural nail after an extended period of neglect of the nail under an old nail enhancement.

All forms of fungal infection should be referred to a doctor.

The discoloration of the nail plate caused by water mould is a direct result of wearing nail enhancements, it appears green in mild cases but can be black in severe cases.

AFFECTS OF NAIL PRODUCT INGREDIENTS

Nail polish remover, designed to dissolve nail polish. Acetone has very low pH and will dry the nail and surrounding skin.

Cuticle remover, are used to eliminate stubborn cuticle from the nail plate. The moisturising ingredients prevent over drying of the skin.

Paraffin, is a petroleum by product. It required a high temperature to heat but is high flammable. Special thermostat units should be used to ensure the heat is at optimum temperature of 49°C. It serves as an exfoliation and moisturising treatment.

Cuticle oil, used prior to a treatment or after a treatment. With daily use it provides as protection, nourishment.

A.H.A. cuticle products, exfoliate the skin by encouraging new cell growth, can make the skin surface feel soft and smooth.

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Exfoliating creams and scrubs, such as oatmeal, nut kernels, quarts and mineral salts. They remove dead skin cells from the surface of the skin. The type of abrasive substance used in pedicure treatments is coarser to those used in manicures.

Moisturisers, hand and foot creams can act as a barrier on the skins surface. Once the skin has been exfoliated, the skin is more responsive to moisture- creams don’t moisturise by them selves, only water can moisturise.

Base coat, is always recommended before polishing to prevent the pigment in nail polish from staining the nail plate.

Nail strengtheners/ hardeners, sometimes used as a base coat to provide strength to the nail from becoming brittle or fragile.

Nail polish, used to add protection, colour and gloss to the nail plate.

Nitrocellulose and TSF resin. Is a polymer and is used for strength and durability. TSF resin sticks strongly to the nail plate but lacks glass and is soft. Nitrocellulose produces hard shiny surfaces, but does not stick to the nail plate and becomes very brittle. Used together the product is shiny, tough, long lasting and adheres well to the nail plate

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Top Coat, makes polish more resistant to chipping. It adds strength and gloss to the nail plate. Topcoats are usually clear. They tend to be fast drying and tough when dry. Some top coats are used in conjunction with U.V. light.

Nail polish dryers, speed the time that polish takes to dry. They are available in 3 formsSprays in aerosol or pump forms, which is sprayed on the final coat. They leave an oily film, however you should try to reduce the use of aerosol in the salon

Oils, which is brushed over the varnished and the cuticle to condition th anil are

Quick dry which is applied as a final coat with a brush.

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Acrylic Products Primers- Products that prepare the surface of the nail for the acrylic to adhere. They remove bacteria and grease from the nail and attach to the surface.

Polymers and monomers. These are the two types of chemicals that make up acrylic products. A monomer is a single unit and a polymer is a longer molecule. When they mix together they make a very durable, hard product which is a result of this polymerisation. Monomer is liquid and polymer is powder.

Adhesive resin, is a bonding agent to secure fabric to natural nails, it is usually available in different viscosities and is a type of glue.

Gel Products- Different ingredients to acrylic. They work on the same principle where a monomer and an oligomer resin are combined under the influence of ultra violet light. The effect of the light is to cure or harden the product.

PROVIDE AFTER CARE ADVICE

Providing appropriate aftercare service and advice to clients who have received a nail service is part of a nail technician’s role. Aftercare advice should be outlines to the client before the service to ensure that the client understands what is involved and agrees to the treatment. Types of after care advice may include;How to clean nails and nail enhancements effectively and avoid infectionProper methods of cutting and filing finger nails and toe nailsProper methods of applying polishHand and foot protection measures eg wearing gloves which doing tasks.Lifestyle changes to improve skin and nail health eg balanced diet Recommendations for future nail services.Suppliers of nail products