FALL 2013 S ETTING U PA T URNING S HOP $9.99US $10.99CAN WOODTURNING PROJECTS & TECHNIQUES Display Until December 3, 2013 • Choosing a Lathe • Turning Green Wood • Jam Chuck Turning • Textures and Patterns • How to Turn Pens • Friction Polish Woodworker's Journal SIP ■ Fall 2013 ■ Woodturning Projects & Techniques The Ultimate Guide to Woodturning!
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7w w w . w o o d w o r k e r s j o u r n a l . c o m F a l l 2 0 1 3
TURNING
Woodturning requires three primary investments: a lathe,
some turning tools and a method for keeping their edges
sharp. This section’s articles will address aspects of all three
of these “action items,” plus give you a short course on the
latest hollowing tools and woodturning’s fastest finish:
friction polish.
Woodturning might just
be the perfect baby-
boomer woodworking
niche. It’s fun and relatively easy,
doesn’t take a bunch of room, and
you don’t need a big pile of
money to get started. And here is
the kicker: you can turn a project,
from start to finish (you know,
the kind you wipe on) in an
evening! Even more complex
turning projects don’t take as
long to make as a big piece of fur-
niture does. Think of it as “instant
gratification” woodworking.
We here at Woodworker’s
Journal know that there are
many woodworkers who are
interested in woodturning, but
they have yet to make the move
(or more likely, moves) to begin
turning. While there are
probably lots of good reasons
why you may not be ready to
jump into the turning orbit just
yet, don’t let the “big three” road-
blocks keep you from joining the
ranks of satisfied woodturners.
8 G e t t i n g S t a r t e d i n W o o d t u r n i n g
w o o d t u r n i n g i s e a s y t o l e a r n a n d f a s t
t o d o . S o , w h a t ’ s k e e p i n g y o u f r o m
t a k i n g i t u p ? P r o b a b l y o n e o f t h e s e
t h r e e c o m m o n r o a d b l o c k s .
Getting Started in Woodturning
Start out with a benchtop lathe. It will cost you less than a full-size machine while
providing a very capable lathe for general turning. This JET JWL-1220, for example,
will allow you to turn a vessel up to 12" in diameter. It sells for around $550.
Three Major StoppersAt its heart, woodturning is very
simple. You really only need
three major components to do
remarkable work: something to
spin the wood — a lathe; some-
thing to cut the wood — gouges
of sufficient quality for the
task; and here is perhaps the
biggest stopper for some folks ...
something to sharpen those
curved gouges — a super-easy
sharpening system.
On these pages, you will find
our recommendations for simple
solutions to meet those three
basic turning needs. There are,
of course, many other high
This five-piece turning set from Crown comes pre-sharpened, so they’re ready to use
right out of the box. It is a very serviceable group of tools that will get a beginner
turning in no time and allow your skills and craft to grow. Rockler Woodworking and
Hardware sells the five-piece set for around $228.
9w w w . w o o d w o r k e r s j o u r n a l . c o m
quality options for these compo-nents. But the three we suggesthere will get you across the turning threshold at a minimumof out-of-pocket expense andwith the opportunity to growyour skills and the scope of yourturning challenges.
There is a Season:
Turn, Turn, Turn!
As with any shop upgrade, you canapproach it in a variety of ways Ñbuy new, buy used, try out yourbuddy’s lathe to get the feel ofturning ... it’s up to you. But if youare going to start turning wood,you need a lathe, and it doesn’thave to be a big one. The JETJWL-1220 Wood Lathe, for example, is a mini-lathe with a3/4hp motor and 12" capacity.That means you can turn bowlsand other objects up to 12" indiameter. Small lathes are greatfor turning pens, spindles, duckcalls, bowls, flat turning Ñ all thestuff you can do on a big lathe, justin smaller scale. You can buy itnew for about $550. If you fall inlove with woodturning, it will likely not be the last lathe youbuy. But you will probably keepthe mini-lathe around the shopanyway, even if you step up to afull-size lathe later on.
The Work Sharp WS3000 is one of the easiest
systems we’ve found to sharpen those tricky
curved-edge gouges. It also does a great job with
flat surfaces. Keep it close to your lathe so you
can sharpen as you turn, just like the pros do it.
10 G e t t i n g S t a r t e d i n W o o d t u r n i n g
The Cutting EdgeNow that you have your woodspinning, you’ll need somethingto change its shape. The CrownFive-piece Turning Set (item27754) from Rockler is a goodchoice if you are starting out. Itcontains full-sized roughing andspindle gouges, as well as a part-ing tool, skew and a round-nosescraper — really all the cuttingtools you need to get into wood-turning in a big way. The steel isof very good quality and the han-dles are sufficient; they could belonger, but at around $228 forthe set, this is a very good deal.An added bonus is that the toolscome properly ground and wellhoned. Not only can you startturning with them right out ofthe box, but you also get a goodidea of what a sharp turningedge looks and feels like.
As you progress in woodturn-ing, this is one collection of toolsthat will likely grow. While thevariety of different turning toolsis not endless, it is vast, and turn-ers seem to develop strong pref-erences regarding grind, gougeshape, handle length ... youname it. But you’ve got to startsomewhere, and this set is justright to get you up and running.
Honing In On a Sharp ToolEven if your turning tools aresharp right out of the box, soon-er or later they will get dull — allcutting tools do. Then you haveto sharpen them. The challengewith sharpening turning tools isthat many of them are not a simple flat edge (like a benchchisel or a plane iron). Bowl,spindle and roughing gouges arecurved. Sharpening those
curved edges has long been oneof the roadblocks for folks look-ing to become woodturners. Andwhile it is not impossible to learnto sharpen those edges on traditional grinding-wheel stylesystems, they can be tricky forbeginners. The main reason isthat on a grinding wheel system,the edge you are sharpening is turned down, where it’s harder to see. For that reason we recommend the Work Sharp®
WS3000 Wood Tool Sharpenerfor start-up turners. It is an abra-sive-paper based system asopposed to a grinding-wheel typesystem. By using the see-throughslotted wheel you can actuallyview the surface you are grind-ing (see photos, above). Thisfunction allows immediate visualfeedback and enhanced controlas you sharpen a gouge. If you
It is easier to gauge how the sharpening
process is going if you can see it
happening. That’s the concept behind
the slotted-wheel feature on the
Work Sharp WS3000 Wood Tool
Sharpener. Beginning sharpeners often
find this system especially useful when
it comes to sharpening curved-edge
tools like spindle and bowl gouges.
15788
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“black out” the grinding surfacebefore you start, using a blackmarker, you can see the metalrevealed as you lightly grind thesurface. When the black is allgone, your gouge is sharp andready to take back to the lathe.It’s that simple.
If you turn a lot of wood, youare going to need to get good atsharpening your cutting tools.Turners sharpen their tools allthe time. In fact, many experi-enced turners keep their sharp-ening systems right next to thelathe. Often they don’t even turnoff the lathe as they turn to thegrinder and put a new edge ontheir tools. One obstacle thatnew turners often put in front ofthemselves is that they over-think the sharpening component
Compared to the entire continuum ofwoodworking power tools, lathes(and by extension, woodturning) aregenerally considered fairly safe.With that said, one important pieceof safety equipment everywoodturner should own is a faceshield. While it may seem tooobvious to mention, the goal is to
protect not only your eyes, but alsothe rest of your face from flyingchips, chunks and even entire bowlsthat may come loose from the lathefrom time to time. Shields come in awide range of cost and quality. Thebasic shield, shown on the benchabove, is sold by RocklerWoodworking and Hardware for
around $15. On the other end of thespectrum is the Trend® Airshield Pro,a top-of-the line, power-ventilatedand padded face protection system,that sells for around $350 (see insetphoto above). Whichever face shieldyou buy, don’t take chances withsafety. Wear it whenever you areworking at the lathe.
Saving Face: Don’t Forget the Face Shield!
of turning. They are concernedabout not getting the tools sharpenough, or maybe too sharp. Dothey need to raise a “wire edge”on their tools that they’ve readabout? The quandaries go on.Perhaps that’s because, as IanKirby is fond of pointing out,sharpening is not woodworking... it is metalworking. So it’s logi-cal why we woodworkers are abit uncomfortable with the task.The curious thing is that whenyou talk to experienced turners,they don’t get worked up aboutsharpening. It’s something theyjust have to do. Priced at $200,the WS3000 is a user-friendlysystem that can get a newbie tothat “no big deal” sharpeningmindset quickly, which is a goodgoal. Remember, the less time
you spend sharpening, the moretime you’ll spend turning.
Knock Down the Roadblocks
and Have Fun!
Getting started in woodturningis easier than it seems. Once youget past the three roadblocksidentified here, you will be spin-ning stock and making shavingsin no time. As with any new skill,it is good to learn the basics andunderstand the safety concerns.One great thing about turning isthat it is a forgiving hobby andlends itself well to trial-and-errorlearning at no great expense.The most important thing tokeep in mind is the adviceoffered by turning expert, BettyScarpino: “Don’t forget to havesome fun!”
14 A n E x p e r t ’ s G u i d e t o C h o o s i n g a L a t h e
As turning grows in popularity,
the options for lathes continues
to increase. You can certainly
invest in a new machine, but
don’t dismiss the option of buying
used — a well-cared-for machine
could be an excellent bargain.
15w w w . w o o d w o r k e r s j o u r n a l . c o m F a l l 2 0 1 3
For those of you who don’tyet own a lathe, this guidewill help to answer ques-
tions you may not even knowyou have. The main point toremember is to go ahead andbuy a lathe. Don’t be afraid totake the plunge: your first lathewill train you. Besides, most ofus will own more than one lathe in our lifetimes. The first lathe is often a “starter” lathe; the second is the one you won’twant to share with others!
Counting the CostLathes are priced from a fewhundred dollars to more thanseven thousand dollars.Generally speaking, you getwhat you pay for. More expen-sive lathes are heavier, they runtrue, and they are machined sothat the parts work and moveeasily. They are equipped with alarger spindle size, whichmeans they can handle largechunks of wood with relativeease. Within your price range,try out different brands. It’s sortof like deciding whether youlike to drive a Ford or a Chevy.My guess is whatever you get,you will be thrilled to have.
My current lathe cost morethan the car I owned at thetime. Ten years ago, followingmy own advice, I bought thebest lathe I could afford. The$6,000 I paid has been worthevery penny in enjoyment andsatisfaction. It fits my needs, ithas abundant capacity for me toincrease the size of my turn-ings, and it’s a top qualitymachine. Twenty-two yearsbefore that, the $1,500 I paid formy first lathe seemed expen-sive. I used it extensively andhappily. At the time it was agood lathe for me.
Needs, Abilities and InterestsLathes are fairly straightfor-ward machines. There’s notmuch that can go wrong withthem, and what does wear outor break is easy to fix or replace.If you are handy with fixing andrestoring machines, considerbuying a used lathe. Provided it hasn’t been abused, a well-cared-for used lathe can offerexcellent value and the opportu-nity to “trade up” in quality orfeatures over what you’d get bybuying new.
S h o p p i n g f o r a l a t h e s h o u l d n ’ t b e
s t r e s s f u l , e s p e c i a l l y i f i t ’ s k e e p i n g y o u
f r o m t u r n i n g . O u r a u t h o r ’ s t r i e d - a n d - t r u e
a d v i c e w i l l h e l p .
An Expert’s Guide to Choosing a Lathe
Before you purchase a lathe, it helps to
know what sort of turning you plan to
do most. For tiny work, a mini-lathe may
be all you need. Bowl-turning and
general spindle work will require a full-
sized lathe. Either way, dive in! Your first
lathe probably won’t be your last.
As turning has grown in popularity over the lastdecade, manufacturers have responded by creating awhole new class of machines. Dubbed “mini-lathes” byturners, some of these small machines are surprisingly
capable critters. Many are priced to sell as entry-leveltools for around $300 to $350, and yet are well designed.They are, of course, limited by such factors as bed length,swing diameter, speeds and horsepower. But within theselimits, they can do a good job. Their advantages areapparent: they are low-cost, they require little space, andthey can do many of the jobs for which their big brothersare designed. They are also, to some degree, portable,which can be a real benefit for the small shop. They’reideal if you’re a beginner wanting to turn smaller projectslike pens, bottle stoppers or small vessels.
If you’re planning on making four-poster beds for theentire family, this is NOT the way to go. There are bedextensions available for many models, and you can do theoccasional 40" turning. However, little lathes lack themuscle for a steady diet of furniture turning. Likewise,trying a lot of bowl turning on these small machineswould quickly become frustrating due to limitedhorsepower, speeds and swing. But for the occasionalsmall vessel or box, the very high speed ranges (3,000rpm plus) incorporated into their design are perfect.They’re also great for making miniatures.
If pens, ornaments or small bowls are your goal, consider
buying a mini-lathe instead of a full-sized machine. You’ll save
considerably on the initial purchase but still get a tool that’s
sturdy, precise and built for many years of reliable service.
Though small in stature, mini-lathes are definitely not toys.
16 A n E x p e r t ’ s G u i d e t o C h o o s i n g a L a t h e
Mini Lathes: Great Things from Small Packages
Electronic variable speed is a helpful
feature for turning. You can dial in low
speeds for initial roughing work, then
progressively higher speeds for shaping
and sanding stages.
If you are going to turn only
small items, consider buying a
miniature lathe (see sidebar,
below). Some turners prefer to
make only bowls. If this is the
case for you, buy a bowl-turning
lathe. One large-capacity bowl-
turning lathe has a 2"-diameter
spindle. That’s heavy-duty for
sure! If spindles are what you
will be making, you will want to
make sure that the point of the
live center in the tailstock lines
up with the point that’s in the
drive center. If it doesn’t, your
turnings will be compromised.
While you are in the woodwork-
ing supply store, check out the
quality of different models of
lathes by lining up the tailstock
center with the drive center.
That’s often a sign of the quality
of manufacturing.
Most of us want a lathe that
will turn bowls and spindles.
Fortunately, most lathes on the
market are designed to do both
quite nicely. Consider the size
of work you want to make, then
shop around accordingly. It
may be that a midi-lathe —
larger than a mini-lathe and
smaller than a regular size — is
right for you.
If you can afford it, buy a lathe
with a variable-speed control. I
had to change speeds on my first
lathe by moving the belt on the
pulley. The range of speeds was
limited. As a result, I could turn
only smaller-scale bowls; the
slowest speed available was 800
rpm. If you are going to turn
large bowls, you will definitely
need infinite control of the
speed, as you will sometimes
need to start out at very few rpm.
You may be able to convert an
older lathe to variable speed,
depending on the model.
For woodturners with bad
backs, several lathes on the mar-
ket have swivel heads. This
allows a person to turn the inside
of a bowl without leaning over
the bed of the lathe. This feature
won’t provide enough support to
keep the lathe balanced with
large turnings, but for medium-
and small-scale work, it’s fine.
Another option for someone who
has back problems is to buy a
bowl lathe. The beds of these are
18 A n E x p e r t ’ s G u i d e t o C h o o s i n g a L a t h e
Betty Scarpino served as a contributing
editor to Woodworker’s Journal.
short, so the turner can stand at
the end of the lathe bed and turn
from there. No twisting required.
Quality ConsiderationsFor handling big chucks of
wood, you’ll need stability. Look
for a lathe that has at least a 1"-
diameter spindle. The spindle
shaft is where most of the
vibration gets transferred to
other parts of the lathe. A lathe
with a 3/4"-diameter spindle is
fine for smaller work, but if you
are making large bowls, a
thicker spindle will keep things
spinning smoothly.
The stand for the lathe is also
important. A lightweight stand
will allow more vibration. Up to a
point, weight can be added to
these lighter-weight models. The
limiting factor is the weight of
the material the stand is made
from. Lightweight metal stands
are intended for smaller-size
turnings. They will twist with
heavy, out-of-round turnings,
even if weighted down. Your
better bet is to invest in a lathe
stand made of cast iron.
AccessoriesMost lathes come with a face-
plate, a tool-rest, a drive center, a
tailstock center and whatever
wrenches and implements you
need for removing the drive
center and faceplates. To begin
with, that’s all you will need, so
stop there. After turning for a
while, you will figure out what
other accessories would be
helpful. Some lathes come with
a control panel that you can
move Ñ a handy thing. But a
word of caution: those of us with
short memories might have a
problem reaching for the Off
switch in a hurry!
Setting Up Your LatheWhen you set up your new lathe,
H e r e ’ s a s i m p l e s t e p - b y - s t e p g u i d e
t o p e r f e c t p e n s .
Shopping List
• Pen mandrel with bushings
• Pen blank you cut or buy
• 7mm carbide brad-point drill bit
• 7mm pen kit
• CA (cyanoacrylate) adhesive
• Finishing supplies
get started: check out theShopping List, previous page.Key among the products is apen turning mandrel. It is a steelbar with a Morris taper on oneend; the other end is threaded,holding a knurled nut. The penblanks are turned on the man-drel. If you buy just the basicpen-specific items and cut yourown wooden blanks, you’llspend about $40 to get going.For one-stop shopping, Rocklersells a nice starter package thatincludes the mandrel and drillbit, CA glue and three pen kits
with blanks.You’ll need a few basic shop
tools: a handsaw or band saw forcutting the blanks to length, a drill press for drilling the holes in the blanks, a bit of sand-paper and, of course, a lathe fordoing the turning. A 3/8" or 1/2" spindle gouge is sufficient totake a pen from roughing to completion.
The pen kits include two brasstubes called barrels, a pen mech-anism, a pocket clip and variousbrass rings used to connect thebrass barrels for final assembly.
33F a l l 2 0 1 3
Iturned my first pen abouteight years ago when I tookthe very pen turning class I
now teach. I’ve been hooked onturning ever since. Making pensis a great introduction to basicspindle turning. Turning yourown pens results in beautiful,custom, no-two-alike master-pieces that make great gifts,each having their own characterand charm. What a great excuseto sneak out to the shop for a little fun.
There are a few specializedpen-turning tools you’ll need to
TIP: Not all kits come
with directions or use
the same length brass
barrels. So, when you’re
just getting started, stick
with one brand of kit to
make things easier.
Pen Blank Options
Pen blanks can be made from just about anything you can turn ...from antlers to synthetics to wood salvaged from your favoritetree. Once you start turning pens, you’ll probably find suitablepen blanks every place you look. Since the blanks are so small,they’re good projects for using the tiny scraps you can’t bear tothrow out. I collect those small-but-precious scraps in a bin in my shop. Once I’ve accumulated a pile, I cut them to pen size (3/4" x 3/4" x 6" works well).
If you want to take a shortcut, you can purchase pen blanks from a variety of places (see Sources on page 37). I’ve also picked up some great blanks on eBay. Pre-cut blanks are a nice convenience for getting pens turned in a hurry, and they are also a good way to get cool materials you wouldn’t otherwise use for woodworking. They can cost as little as 50 cents each or as much as $25 for really exotic blanks such as prairie rattlesnake. Some pre-cut blanks even come drilled and already round.However, here’s a word to the wise: Be careful when trying a new tropical hardwood for the first time. Some speciescan cause allergic reactions, especially members of the rosewood family. Always wear a dust respirator, safety glassesor a face shield and long sleeves to protect yourself from the dust you create during the sanding stage.
w w w . w o o d w o r k e r s j o u r n a l . c o m
Pen Turning ProcessPages 36 and 37 cover the basicsof pen turning. There are fourmain steps: preparing theblanks, mounting and shapingon the lathe, applying finish andassembling the parts.
Once you complete your pen,it’s time to find it a suitablehome. After all your hard work,it would be a shame to store it in a plastic bag. There are a number of different pen boxesand plastic cases available fordisplaying or gifting your pens.The companies mentioned in theSources box on page 37 offersome options.
In addition to a nice box, Isometimes customize my pensby having the recipient’s namelaser-engraved on the pen. Costvaries, but I can usually get itdone for $5 to $10 per pen.
Pens First, then the Sky is the LimitMastering the technique ofusing a brass barrel and mandrelis the gateway to numerousgreat small projects that are well-suited for everything from amini-lathe to a full-size rig. Thenumber of projects that fall intothis category is nearly endless:key rings and bottle stoppers toplumb bobs and scratch awlsawait you. One of the things Ilove most about pens and othersmall turning projects is how little time it takes to create them.From start to finish, most can becompleted in less than 30 minutes. Gotta love that kind ofinstant gratification!
More Specialized Tools
Tim Nyberg wrote this article for
Woodworker’s Journal. Turn to
pages 36 and 37 for step-by-step
photos of the complete pen
turning process.
EEE-Ultra Shine Paste WaxNot a necessary part of your finishingprocess, but EEE-Ultra Shine adds avery nice luster to your pen projects.It’s a wax polish containing fineabrasives that bring your 400-gritsanding job to the equivalent of a2,000-grit sandpaper finish.
There are countless gadgets that can simplify turning pens. If you get ashooked on pen turning as I have, you may find yourself turning many morepens. I often turn as many as five to 10 pens at a time. Here are a few thingsthat can speed up this production process a bit. You can find them at the pensupply sources listed in the Sources box on page 37.
Pen PressWhile a clamp will work for assemblingyour pens, a dedicated pen press appliesmore even and consistent pressure. It willhelp prevent pressing your tip advancemechanism too far into the barrel.
7mm Barrel TrimmerOccasionally, you may need to trim thebrass barrels shorter, and nothing worksbetter than this barrel trimming tool.With carbide cutters and a 7mm shaftholding the cutters perpendicular to theblank, you’ll get perfectly flush endsevery time. It also cleans out glue thatmay have ended up inside the barrel. Youdon’t have to own a barrel trimmer toturn a few pens, but it would be one ofmy first pick-ups if I were going to makemore than a couple of pens.
Sorby 3/8" Spindlemaster GougeI prefer to use gouges to do as muchwork as possible before I switch tosandpaper. This little time-saver fromSorby will allow you to make nice beadsor coves, and it cuts a smooth finish. Igenerally use it as the last gouge I runover the piece before sanding.
Rockler Pen Blank Drilling JigAlthough I prefer using a hand screwclamp for holding my blanks on the drillpress, there are a variety of great shop-made and commercial solutions forholding the tiny blanks straight. Rocklersells a helpful drilling jig for pen blanks.
For a store near you or free catalog:
Rockler.com 1-877-ROCKLER
There are many ways to finish a woodworking
project, and our new Bench Cookie® Bridges rise
above the rest. These handy supports snap onto
Bench Cookie® Work Grippers to provide sturdy
work holding with minimal surface contact, so
you can finish all sides of your project without
damaging the finish when you turn it over.
Now you can finish with confidence!
off$15 $50
One-time use only. Minimum purchase of $50 in qualifying mer-chandise required. Cannot be applied to sales tax or shipping. No cash value. Cannot be combined with other offers or coupons. Not valid at Independent Resellers. Excludes sale items, power tools, Leigh jigs, Porter-Cable dovetail jigs, Shark CNC, SawStop, Festool, Click-N-Carve, and Rockler Gift Cards. Offer Expires 10/31/13.
Jam Chuck TurningO u r a u t h o r p u l l s a n o l d t e c h n i q u e o u t o f
h i s b a g o f t r i c k s t o s o l v e t h e c h a l l e n g e
p r e s e n t e d b y t h i s p r o j e c t . V e r s a t i l e a n d
e c o n o m i c a l , h i s t e c h n i q u e i s t h e p e r f e c t
s o l u t i o n f o r h a r d - t o - h o l d p i e c e s .
PVC pipe for this project’s plastic
cylinder will be easy to find at your
local hardware store. The wood for the
top and base is probably already lying
around your shop.
While building this simple project, you’ll learn how to use a
jam chuck — a technique turners have been using for ages.
When it comes to finishing the
wood for this project, choose a
nontoxic, oil-based product like
Salad Bowl Finish or even
mineral oil. A coat of food-safe
paraffin wax will help to seal the
wood and keep hamburger from
sticking to it. Clean your press
with mild soap and hot water
after use, and reapply finish if
needed. Or, you can leave it with-
out a finish. A curious but impor-
tant fact to note is that wood has
been proven to have a natural
resistance to growing bacteria,
making it a good material for
cutting boards or, in this case, a
patty press.
Getting Started The steps to making your patty
press are as follows.
Find and then mark the cen-
ters of two 6" x 6" x 15∕8" blanks.
Mark the centers on both sides.
These will become the top and
base pieces of your press.
Cut one blank — the base — to
a circle about 51∕2" in diameter.
Cut the other — the top — to
about 41∕2" in diameter. If your
plastic cylinder pipe has an inner
diameter other than 4", you will
have to adjust the blank sizes
accordingly.
Mount the base blank between
centers (Figure 1). If you use a
serrated Stebcenter for the drive
and live center, there will be less
damage to the surfaces that will
39F a l l 2 0 1 3
Whether it is a summer
barbecue or a tailgate
party in the fall, you
need to convert your masterful
hamburger mixture into patties
to put on the grill. This patty
press will help you create per-
fectly formed patties that stay
together better while grilling and
fit nicely on those buns. You can
make this press in an evening
using materials you probably
have lying around in your shop.
Find and purchase the PVC pipe
that makes the plastic cylinder at
a local hardware store or a big
box type store. It’s important to
get the PVC before you start
turning so you can fit the other
wooden parts to it.
Selecting the WoodChoosing a wood species for this
patty press is limited by only a
couple of considerations. Because
it will be used in food preparation,
it is better to be safe than sorry.
Some people have extreme aller-
gies to nuts. These allergies can
actually be life-threatening.
Although unlikely, nut woods like
walnut, hickory or pecan may
transfer some oils that could
spark an allergic reaction. I rec-
ommend using a close-grained
non-nut wood: cherry, maple or
even yellow poplar would be good
choices. The press you see here
was made from alder, another
good species choice.
w w w . w o o d w o r k e r s j o u r n a l . c o m
4
3
2
1
Using the Patty Press
1. Prepare your ground meat mixture using your favorite recipe. 2. Place the cylinder loosely onto the tenon on the base.3. Spoon meat mixture into cylinder. You may need to adjust the amount
to achieve desired patty thickness.4. Using a twisting motion with the top, compress the meat into the press.5. Using a twisting motion to break surface tension, lift and remove the top.6. Remove the cylinder from the base, leaving the patty in place.7. The patty will usually adhere to the base, which will allow you to move
it to the platter. Turn the base over and use a knife to break the tension, thereby dropping the patty.
8. Use wax paper or equivalent to separate the patties.9. Repeat steps 2 through 8 until the meat mixture is gone.
Zestful TurningsS t a r t w i t h a d a s h o f s c r a p c h e r r y a n d
m a p l e , s t i r w e l l o n y o u r l a t h e a n d t r i m
o f f t h e e x c e s s t o p r o d u c e t h i s c l a s s i c
s a l t a n d p e p p e r s e t .
Like recipes, turning projects
have an organic quality to
them. Most are best present-
ed as ideas so each turner can
make changes to suit a project to
his or her own tastes. Our salt
and pepper set is a good exam-
ple. If you enjoy contemporary
tableware, these shapes will
blend right in with that look. You
can follow the Full-size Drawings
on page 56 to make exact dupli-
cates, or take off with your own
ideas to create a unique style.
The construction of the salt
shaker includes a useful ring
joint that you may want to try out
on other sectional designs
like candlestick holders, vases
or vessels that are made with
separate pieces of wood.
Making the Pepper MillThe first thing you should take
care of before starting this proj-
ect is purchasing the salt and pep-
per mechanisms, available from
Rockler and other turning supply
sources. Having the hardware in
hand when you begin cutting will
save you from possible mistakes.
Cut your pepper mill wood
blanks slightly oversize, and
begin working on the cherry top
first. Drill a 3/4"-diameter by
1/4"-deep hole in one end of the
cherry block, then mount it on
the lathe with the hole facing the
tail stock. Turn the block into a
cylinder with a roughing gouge,
then use a parting tool to form
the neck. Continue with the
gouge to round over the top, and
smooth the surface with a skew.
Increase your lathe speed to
sand the cherry to 220-grit, then
dismount the top and drill a 1/4"-
diameter hole through the wood.
55F a l l 2 0 1 3
Now put the maple between
centers on the lathe and turn it
to shape with the roughing
gouge. Again, use a skew and
sandpaper to refine the surface.
Part off the maple piece from the
lathe and drill three holes into
the mill: First, a 11∕2"-diameter by
1/2"-deep hole in the bottom of
the piece, then a 11∕4"-diameter by
3/8"-deep hole in the top end.
Use the indents from the lathe
drives to find the drilling centers
for these two holes. The third
hole is 1" in diameter and passes
from the top end all the way to
the bottom. To get greater
w w w . w o o d w o r k e r s j o u r n a l . c o m
Essential Spindle-Turning Tools
Roughing Gouges are heavy-duty tools, manufactured to withstand the impactinvolved with the four rotating corners of square stock. If you’ve never used one,you’re missing out on a splendid way to go from square to round. Simply hold thegouge on the tool-rest and advance the cutting edge into the wood near the end ofthe stock, cutting gradually toward that end. Reduce the diameter of the wooduntil you achieve the desired dimension.
Spindle Gouges work great when they’re sharpened with a long, steep bevel anda more pointed end in comparison to a bowl gouge. This type of edge profileallows for a clean cut and also enables you to get into tight areas betweenelements of the turned object. But, I’ll confess that I sometimes get lazy and use abowl gouge when I ought to use a spindle gouge. It’s perfectly safe, but the bevelon a bowl gouge is at a shorter angle, which makes for a less grabby cut.
Skew Chisels: If what you are making requires an abrupt division betweensquare stock and round stock, here’s where a skew chisel is a necessity. Use eitherthe heel or the toe of the skew to cut into the square stock. Arch the tool into thewood and begin with light, small cuts. When using the skew chisel, remember thatthere are potentially four cutting edges and four bevels. When you are using oneedge, stay away from the other three or you’ll surely catch the wood!
Parting Tools are actually not for parting the wood off the lathe but for partingthrough the wood to mark a specific diameter. They are often used in conjunctionwith calipers, preset to measure a correct diameter. Parting tools arestraightforward to use. Simply arch them into the wood and push gently. They dothe cutting work almost automatically.
RoughingGouge
SkewChisel
SpindleGouge
PartingTool
This salt and pepper set is a greatopportunity to practice your spindle-turning skills. Turning a spindle isn’tdifficult, and it requires only four differentlathe tools. Here’s woodturning expertBetty Scarpino’s advice about each one.
w w w . w o o d w o r k e r s j o u r n a l . c o m
when finishing and a centered
starter hole for the rear hook
eye. So advance the tailstock
after the first plug is parted off.
It’s possible to drill these holes
on the lathe, too.
Finish the shaping by sanding
the body down to 400-grit, and
part off the head. Leave a small
flat nose section that can be eas-
ily drilled (you’ll sand the nose to
shape later). Repeat on the sec-
ond plug. When splitting dished
plugs, cut diagonally and then
use a spindle sander to shape the
lip. Belt or other sanders can
also be used to flatten the sides
of minnow plugs for a more
realistic minnow shape on plugs
that imitate shad and shuck.
Then drill any remaining holes
for the nose, eyes or hook hangers
and remove the plug for finishing.
This is a great mini-lathe project, requiring a minimumof turning tools ... just a small gouge or even a scraper. Iuse an oscillating spindle sander to shape the ends of mypoppers, but you could carve those shapes using chiselsand a shaped sanding block just as easily.
Optional but important supplies include plastic skirtsof various colors, wiggling scoops and lead weights.
Epoxy and super glues are very helpful and, moreimportantly, waterproof. Painting the
lures will require dipping containers,hobby paints, small brushes andwaterproof sealers. A hobbyistairbrush is really useful, but optional.
M a k e t h i s c h a l l e n g i n g g a m e , a n d
w h i l e y o u ’ r e a t i t , l e a r n h o w
t o m a k e a n d u s e a j a m c h u c k .
Our editor in chief, Rob Johnstone, suggested to me
that an article on turning a Japanese kendama game
would be fun for all. This child’s game is pure spin-
dle turning (“child” being defined as anyone from nine to 92
years of age in the case of this addicting game). A variation
on the age-old ball-and-cup toy, the player uses the ken
(handle) to capture the wood dama (ball) attached to it by a
string in one of four ways. There are two cups, one larger
and one smaller, attached to the ken at right angles. There
is a third cup in the base of the ken that is still smaller.
Finally, the ball may be captured on the spike at the busi-
ness end of the ken. The ball has a hole in it, which is flared
at the mouth, to facilitate this most difficult of captures.
A kendama game is mostly straightforward spindle turn-
ing, but turning the ball and scraping the cups to the correct
radius to catch the ball is a small challenge for most. You
will need some firm, durable wood to make your kendama
set. I chose hard maple for price and durability, but oak, ash,
hickory and walnut are other good choices. You do not need
much wood for this project, but large-diameter stock is nec-
essary for the ball if it is to be done without gluing up. I was
able to make mine from cutoff scraps I had squirreled away.
I will not elaborate on the turning of the handle and the set
of cups that mount on the spike at the end of it in a “T” fash-
ion, for they are straight spindle turning. The only tip I will
give is that it is best to drill the cross-hole for mounting the
cups on the handle before turning. Drill a 7/16"-diameter
cross-hole in the exact center of the 13∕4" by 23∕4" billet. The
turning of a perfect ball might seem to be impossible, but it
A spiked handle, three cups of varying sizes
and a tethered wooden ball are the total of the
parts to a kendama game — but the variations
of kendama “tricks” go on and on.
is actually well within the capa-
bilities of any competent spindle
turner. The method I am going
to describe was used to turn bil-
liard balls from ivory up until the
1920s. I gleaned this information
from an original volume in my
library: The Lathe & Its Uses by
Claud Lukin, published by John
Wiley & Son in 1868.
The trick of
turning a ball is in
the chucking. You
must use a jam chuck, which is
no more than a piece of wood
screwed to a faceplate. For
strength, the piece of wood you
construct your jam chuck out of
needs to be at least one-and-a-
half times the diameter of the
work (it can also be larger). Like
the kendama itself, the jam
chuck needs to be made from
durable wood of one of the
species I’ve previously men-
tioned. The grain of the chuck
63F a l l 2 0 1 3w w w . w o o d w o r k e r s j o u r n a l . c o m
needs to run between the
centers of the lathe (spindle
turning), so the screws to hold it
on a faceplate need to go into the
end grain of the billet. It is possi-
ble to generate a perfect ball by
how you manipulate the work in
your jam chuck. The photoessay
you will find on pages 66 and 67
will explain the process for
making the jam chuck and
turning the ball.
The Top 10 Kendama Tricks
Moves you can perform with a kendama are called “tricks.” A Japanese Kendama Associationbook lists 101 tricks, but new ones are constantly being invented, as are variations. Forcompetition purposes, there are 11 required tricks for a “kyu” ranking (rated at 10 kyu to 1 kyu,with one the highest); plus about 10 additional for a “dan” rating (also rated at 10 dan to 1dan). Here are some of the "kyu" tricks (you also need “moshikame” — see page 65).
Oozara (Big Cup): Start from a still, vertical position and land the ball in the big cup.
Kozara (Small Cup): Same as above, except land the ball in the small cup.
Chuzara (Middle Cup): Catch the ball in the middle cup on the end of the ken.
Rosoku (Candle): Same as above, but different grip: hold the ken by the point.
Tomeken (Spike Catch or Pull Up/In): Start the ball from a still, hanging position and catch
it by the hole on the ken’s spike.
Hikoki (Airplane): Hold the ball and flip the ken to impale the ball
with the spike.
Furiken (Swinging Spike Catch): Similar to Spike Catch, but
you swing the ball up instead of starting from a dead hang.
Nihon Isshu (Trip Around Japan): Catch the ball
in the small cup, toss it to the big cup, then spike it.
Making the ken is a straightforward exercise in spindle turning. Chuck your ken blank between centers, and use a sharp spindle
gouge to turn it to a comfortable handle profile and smallest end cup. Scrape the spike end of the ken down until it fits the
7/16"-dia. hole in the opposing cup piece.
It’s best to drill the 7/16”-dia. cross-hole that facilitates mounting
the cups on the handle before turning the cups to final shape.
Scrape the cups to shape with a scraper while the work is held
in a smaller version of a jam chuck.
Crosspiece
Spike
Ken
Center Cup
Big Cup
Small Cup
You may choose to purchase a 21∕4"-dia. hardwood ball(item 29753 at rockler.com) instead of turning yourown. If you do choose to make your own, see thephotoessay on the following two pages for step-by-step instructions.
65w w w . w o o d w o r k e r s j o u r n a l . c o m F a l l 2 0 1 3
Drive Centers and SafetyI use a safety center in my lathe.
There are several models on the
market, from companies like
ONEWAY and Sorby, and they’re a
most welcome addition in the
arena of safety. While it might
seem counterintuitive to not use
a spur drive center, it’s actually
much safer to use what looks
like a live center in your head-
stock. The newer ones have an
end on them that has a serrated
edge, similar to what a band saw
blade looks like. One model has
a point that is spring-loaded. It
sticks out quite a bit but retracts
as the tailstock is tightened.
The theory of the safety cen-
ters is that when a catch happens
— and they will happen — the
spinning motion of the wood
stops, as opposed to having the
tool fly out of your hands. After
the incident, simply tighten the
tailstock again and keep turning.
Creating the Shape of an EggIn order to achieve a somewhat
ideal egg shape, the highest
point (largest diameter) of the
egg should be located just off
center, a bit closer to the large-
end side of the center of the egg
than to the smaller end.
Beginners often make the
largest diameter area too close
to the large end of the egg. I did
and, even after hundreds of
eggs, still do, occasionally.
Both ends of the egg should be
round, but is one larger than the
other? It should be. Neither should
be pointed, nor should either of
them be flat. I’ve done both.
Sand your egg while it’s on the
lathe. Even with the wood held
in a chuck, you’ll still need to
clean up and sand the ends off
the lathe. I use a foam interface
pad for final sanding — it helps
the sanding disc conform to the
round shape of the egg, prevent-
ing flat spots. (See photo 6 in the
sidebar on the next page.)
Finishing the EggsI often make eggs in order to
practice new surface treatments
as varied as bleaching, texturing
and burning. I’ll end up with a
well finished project and haven’t
spent hours of time learning a
technique that doesn’t work.
If you are going to paint your
eggs, it helps to not have done a
lot of sanding (yay!). The paint
will stick much better to wood
that’s been sanded with 120-grit
abrasive than if you’ve achieved
a highly polished surface. I like
to use milk paint for my painted
When parting off the egg, you can make
a clean cut if the last cut is from wood
stock that remains in the chuck. If you
try to cut from the direction of the egg,
that can often cause a small hole to
form in the end of the egg.
Here, the author uses a skew chisel to
carve the small bit of wood remaining
on the end of the egg. A knife or bench
chisel will work, too.
Making one end of the egg smaller than
the other — and neither one pointed or
flat — is the key to making your effort
look like an egg.
71w w w . w o o d w o r k e r s j o u r n a l . c o m F a l l 2 0 1 3
Betty Scarpino served as a contributing
editor to Woodworker’s Journal.
Presentation
After making all those eggs, you’ll
need to figure out what to do with
them. I make bowls and put eggs
in them. You can see a variety of
examples on my web page at
www.bettyscarpino.com. Another
option is to make a stand for
individual eggs. A stand can be as
simple as a small piece of interest-
ingly shaped wood with a concave
area or as elaborate as a carved
stand. Let your imagination go
wild with these creations!
If you simply want to practice
turning eggs, grab a solid chunk
eggs. The finish has an eggshell
look to it, and when the milk
paint is applied with a fine
sponge, the texture also resem-
bles that of an egg.
An easy holder for painting
eggs can be made by hammering
three small nails all the way
through a small, thin piece of
plywood in a triangle shape. The
egg will sit nicely in the triangle
on the points of the nails.
I finish darker woods such as
walnut and cherry with an oil
finish. For maple I use a wipe-on
lacquer finish.
of a tree limb, attach it between
the centers of your lathe, and turn
away! Those eggs will eventually
crack, but they make for lovely
decorative firewood, especially if
you’ve turned several from a long
length of branch.
The other part of presentation is
figuring out who gets your new cre-
ations. No doubt there will be many
family members and friends who
will soon begin their own new
hobby of collecting turned eggs!
Six Steps for Beginners
Another method of holding the wood,which doesn’t involve a chuck, is tosimply mount it between centers (1). Tofind the center of the wood, make an “X”on both ends. Punch a small hole at thecenter of the “X.” At this point, you cancut the corners off of the square woodusing your band saw. Tilt the table at a45˚ angle and make the cuts. Or you canattach the wood to the lathe as is andfirst turn a cylinder, then the egg (2).For eggs that have been turned between
centers, there will be wood on both ends
that you will have to cut off (3). This iseasily removed on a band saw or using asmall handsaw. If you use a band saw, erron the side of caution and make a jig tohold the wood to keep the blade fromgrabbing and spinning it during cutting.
I made my jig using a scrap of Balticbirch plywood (4). I created a concavesurface that conformed (somewhat) tothe shape of the egg. A bit of maskingtape easily holds the egg in place,controlling the egg and letting you safelycut off the excess wood on both ends (5).
This jig can be used over and over.The next step is to sand the ends. I put
a sanding disc in my drill press and startwith 60- or 120-grit sandpaper,depending on how much wood I need toremove. Then put a foam interface pad onthe disc holder and use 220-grit paper (6).The foam pad will help you shape theends of the eggs into a nice round surfacewhile avoiding flat spots. As with anyturning technique, practice makesperfect, so grab a small chunk of wood,get over to your lathe and have some fun!
T h e r e i s m o r e t h a n o n e w a y t o t u r n a n e g g . H e r e i s
t h e s k i n n y o n h o w t o t u r n t h o s e o v o i d s b e t w e e n
c e n t e r s — i t ’ s a n e a s y w a y t o g e t s t a r t e d .
84 M a k e y o u r o w n L o n g w o r t h B o w l C h u c k
Matt Becker wrote this article for
Woodworker’s Journal.
and through nuts in each of the
intersections (see Drawing
above). Align the panels so the
bolts for the bumpers go through
the same-length channel on both
the front and back discs.
Putting It to UseWith the jig now assembled,
you’re ready to put it to work.
Thread the faceplate onto your
lathe’s headstock. I found that
it’s easiest to lock the spindle
and rotate the front disc using
the thumb holes. The eight bolts
will move in tandem around your
bowl, and tightening the knobs
on the back will secure them in
place. This jig adds a significant
amount of spinning mass, so
make sure you’re wearing safety
drilled the holes for a snug fit with
the bolts. The flexibility of the rub-
ber provides extra “grip” as the
knob is tightened and the stopper
plumps out. My large discs are
made from 3/4" plywood, but
MDF could be used as well.
Before final assembly, I applied
a few coats of spray lacquer to
both discs and some paraffin
wax to the sides that will be
facing each other. This isn’t
necessary, but I found that it
reduces friction and allows for
smoother disc movement.
Flip one disc over so the two
arc patterns face opposite direc-
tions. Fasten the discs through
the center hole with a bolt, wash-
ers and locking nut and then out-
fit eight bolts, washers, bumpers
The slots must be routed clear through,
so back them up with scrap. Cut a hole
for the faceplate, which remains in
place. Fix the blank to the scrap with
double-sided tape.
Remount the routed disc assembly to
the lathe, and bore a 5/16" bolt hole
through the center. A Jacobs chuck in
the tailstock drills it easily and accurately.
11
22
3 4
5
55
6
7
Exploded View
Material List
T x W x L
1 Discs (2) 3/4" x 12" Dia.
2 Center Bolt, Washer, Nut (1) 5/16" x 21 ⁄2"
3 Rubber Stoppers (8) 11⁄4" Dia. x 1"
4 Bumper Bolts (8) 5/16" x 31 ⁄2"
5 Bumper Washers (24) 5/16"
6 Through-hole Knobs* (8) 13⁄8" Dia., 5/16"-18
7 Hex-head Screws (4) 1"
* Available at rockler.com (item 34134)
Routing patterns are available online atwoodworkersjournal.com/longworth,or send us a self-addressed, stampedenvelope: Longworth, c/oWoodworker’s Journal, 4365 WillowDrive, Medina, MN 55340.Alternatively, you can use a copierand resize the illustration on page 82to 333% (12" disc). Also use the URLabove to find a video demonstratingthe chuck.