Heartland Owners Forum http://manuals.heartlandowners.org Winterization Guide V1.2.pdf Page | 1 Version: 1.2, May 10, 2018 Winterization Guide This guide is intended to assist Heartland Owners in understanding how to winterize their water systems. Important Notices Who created this document? This document has been created by Heartland Owners independently of the Heartland RV Company, and is posted to the Heartland Owners Forum as a service to the owner community. Errors and Omissions Because the authors are Heartland owners, not engineers or service technicians, it’s possible that this document could contain errors or omissions. Readers are advised to also review the manufacturers’ product documentation for more complete information and guidance. Additional Resources The heartlandowners.org website has a collection of owner-written user guides, including information on water systems, heating and cooling, winterizing, residential refrigerator, water heater and other topics. This information is available at http://manuals.heartlandowners.org/?man=User%20Guides Limitations on Using this Document This document may not be modified or sold. It may not be posted on the internet without permission. Other websites may link to the page from which the document may be downloaded, but may not link directly to the document without permission (search engines excluded). Contact Information Questions and comments may be directed to [email protected]
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Heartland Owners Forum http://manuals.heartlandowners.org
Winterization Guide V1.2.pdf P a g e | 1 Version: 1.2, May 10, 2018
Winterization Guide
This guide is intended to assist Heartland Owners in understanding how to winterize their water
systems.
Important Notices
Who created this document?
This document has been created by Heartland Owners independently of the
Heartland RV Company, and is posted to the Heartland Owners Forum as a
service to the owner community.
Errors and Omissions
Because the authors are Heartland owners, not engineers or service technicians,
it’s possible that this document could contain errors or omissions. Readers are
advised to also review the manufacturers’ product documentation for more
complete information and guidance.
Additional Resources
The heartlandowners.org website has a collection of owner-written user guides,
including information on water systems, heating and cooling, winterizing,
residential refrigerator, water heater and other topics. This information is
available at http://manuals.heartlandowners.org/?man=User%20Guides
Limitations on Using this Document
This document may not be modified or sold.
It may not be posted on the internet without permission.
Other websites may link to the page from which the document may be
downloaded, but may not link directly to the document without
Revision History .......................................................................................................................................... 14
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Winterization Guide V1.2.pdf P a g e | 4 Version: 1.2, May 10, 2018
8. Reinstall the anode rod/drain plug at this time, using Teflon tape or equivalent to prevent water
leaks. Teflon tape will also make future removal easier. Do not over tighten.
9. Atwood only: The following is a quote from the Atwood Manual.
“After draining the tank, because of the placement of the Drain Plug, approximately two quarts of water will remain in the tank. This water contains most of the harmful corrosive particles. To remove these harmful corrosive particles flush the tank with either air or water. Whether using air or water pressure, it may be applied through the inlet or outlet on the rear of the tank or the Pressure Temperature Relief Valve. (If using the Pressure Temperature Relief Valve the Support Flange must be removed). The pressure will force out the remaining water and the corrosive particles. If you use water pressure, pump fresh water into the tank with the assistance of the on-board pump or use external water for 90 seconds to allow the fresh water to agitate the stagnant water on the bottom of the tank and force deposits through the drain opening. Continue repeating adding water and draining until the particles have been cleared from the water remaining in the tank.”
Antifreeze Method
First Bypass the Water Heater
Be sure the water heater controls have been set to bypass.
Antifreeze can damage the tank lining and inadvertently adding 12
gallons of antifreeze at $4.00/gallon would also be expensive.
There are two types of bypass controls. Larger trailers with a
Universal Docking Center (UDC) will usually have a lever in the UDC
marked Water Heater Bypass. Turning the handle 90 degrees will
bypass the water heater. There is usually a large instruction label
on the cargo hatch door that shows which way to turn the valve
handle.
The other type of bypass uses three separate valves to bypass the
water heater. These valves are usually located on the inside of the
trailer, where the hot and cold water lines attach to the water
heater inlet and outlet. Each of those lines will have a valve and
there will be a third water line that bridges between the hot and cold lines. That third water line will
also have a valve.
Rotate the hot and cold line valves 90 degrees to close off those lines and rotate the bridge line valve 90
degrees to open that line. The valve handles are usually constructed so that the handle is parallel to the
water line when open, and perpendicular when closed. This picture from an MPG trailer illustrates.
WARNING: Automotive antifreeze is toxic and should never be used in your water system. Be
sure you are using RV/Marine antifreeze that is non-toxic and safe for potable water systems.
Look for a label statement that the antifreeze is non-toxic. Propylene Glycol is a safe type of
RV antifreeze that is also not harmful to the seals or other components of your water system.
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If you’re winterizing the rest of the RV with RV Antifreeze, you’ll have to follow the procedure outlined
in the RM1350 manual that came with your refrigerator. You can download a copy from the Heartland
Owners Forum, in the TOOLS/Heartland Owners Manuals section.
If you’re winterizing with compressed air connected to the city water connector in the UDC, it’s easy to
winterize the refrigerator.
1. After you’ve used 20 psi of compressed air to evacuate water from the rest of the water system, leave it hooked up with the compressor running.
2. If you have a water dispenser, operate it to dispense water into a large container until only air is coming through. This will evacuate water from the supply line, the part of the solenoid that controls water flow, and the feed line to the dispenser. If you don’t have a water dispenser, with the compressor off, disconnect the solenoid end of the ¼” clear plastic water feed line and turn the compressor on to blow the water out. Then reconnect the water hose to the solenoid. See pictures below.
3. Inside the freezer, remove the cover from the gear box by pulling it to the left. Use a small screwdriver to rotate the small gear counter-clockwise slightly to start the icemaker cycle. This will apply power to the solenoid, allowing air to push the water through the solenoid and water feed line and into the icemaker. The gears will turn until the cycle is complete. Repeat for several harvest cycles. Note: the bail arm must be in the down (ON) position.
4. After several cycles, the icemaker should be receiving only air. 5. If you have it, run the water dispenser again to flush out any remaining water. 6. Unscrew both large white plastic nuts on the bottom of the solenoid and allow any remaining
water in the tubes to drain (there’s only one if no water dispenser). 7. Run the water dispenser again (if you have one) and cycle the icemaker one more time. 8. Reconnect the nuts on the bottom of the solenoid. 9. Put the icemaker bail arm in the UP/OFF position. 10. Locate the icemaker water cut-off valve. On Landmark, Bighorn and many other models, it’s
behind the UDC. The basement wall will have to be removed to get to it. On some models it
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may be located elsewhere. If your refrigerator is NOT in a slide out, the cutoff is probably under the kitchen sink or in a drawer or cabinet under or near the refrigerator.
Rotate the cut-off valve arm 90 degrees away from the outlet of the valve to shut it off. Leave it
that way until ready to use the icemaker again.
11. Disconnect the compressed air. You’re done.
Using a “Cheater Cord” to operate the Icemaker
As an alternative to manually operating the icemaker in the steps above, you can build a cheater cord
that will allow you to energize the icemaker solenoid without turning the gears.
Hardware stores such as Home Depot sell lamp wiring kits for a few dollars. You’ll also need some spade
lug connectors similar to the ones on the solenoid.