White Paper - Variation in defining the hip circumference ... · Variation in Defining the Hip Circumference for Clothing Applications Simeon Gill, Christopher J. Parker The University

The University of Manchester Research

Variation in Defining the Hip Circumference for ClothingApplicationsDOI:10.13140/RG.2.1.3450.0087

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Citation for published version (APA):Gill, S., & Parker, C. (2016, Jul). Variation in Defining the Hip Circumference for Clothing Applications. ResearchGate. https://doi.org/10.13140/RG.2.1.3450.0087

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Download date:22. May. 2020

Report No. ADE1601

Variation in Defining the Hip Circumference for Clothing Applications

Simeon Gill, Christopher J. Parker

The University of Manchester, Oxford Road, Manchester, M13 9PL

Abstract: This white paper provides an overview of the variation in definitions for describing the hip and the position from which to take the hip for clothing related applications. Definitions were taken from retailers websites guiding on clothing size, pattern literature concerned with human measurement and pattern development and clothing related standards. The definitions from the sources are analysed to determine the key criteria that defines the placement of the hip measurement.

Keywords: Anthropometrics, Body Scanning, Ergonomics, Garment Construction

Document Type: White Paper/ Technical Report

1 Introduction Human measurement forms the first step in creating garment patterns for individuals or populations and some key measurements are used in the communication of garment sizing. The hip circumference (or girth) is one of the key measurements, usually defining the largest region of the lower body and features in communication of garment size for clothing fitting the lower body. Whilst the region within which the hip occurs, could be considered as relatively easy to define, the specific definition of where to place a single measurement of the hip is subject to variation within and between disciplines. This is compounded by the development of new technology like body scanning that cannot use traditional landmarks that are based on feeling for structures under the skin (palpation) to define the hip, so they must look for other markers for its location.

This white paper provides an overview of the variation in definitions for describing the hip and the position from which to take the hip for clothing related applications. Definitions were taken from retailers websites guiding on clothing size, pattern literature concerned with human measurement and pattern development and clothing related standards. The definitions from the sources are analysed to determine the key criteria that defines the placement of the hip measurement.

2 Methodology Definitions for the hip circumference were recorded from retailers’ websites, providing guidance on customer measurement and from clothing related measurement sources (pattern cutting books and clothing standards) within the physical and electronic library of a UK University with an established technical clothing education offering. The scope of literature was extended to include key texts used to support discussion and research into measurements suitable for clothing. Measurement definitions were collected in separate Excel worksheets divided by source type; ‘retailers’ instructing consumers how they may establish their size relative to RTW garments; ‘pattern construction’ guides and ‘measurement guidance/standards’. Using content analysis methods the recorded definitions were analysed to determine the key descriptors in the placement of the hip measurements. This focused on identification of the key term, body part, feature or structure that defined the hip placement within each definition.

3 Results The following tables show the results of collecting the hip definitions from the different sources and show the key criteria defining the hip placement in each definition. Analysis showed 10 main definitions for the hip throughout the three sources and these have been used to code up the results.

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3.1 Hip Definitions from Retailers Websites Table 1. Hip Definitions from Retailers Websites 2014

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3.2 Hip Definitions from Pattern Construction Books Table 2. Hip Definitions from Pattern Construction Books

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3.3 Hip Definitions from Guides and Standards Table 3. Hip Definitions from Guides and Standards

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4 Discussion The majority of retailers used less specific locations and often used very broad descriptions which would be open to interpretation. They did however specify the hip as a set length down from the waist, showing the influence of proportional techniques and the influence of standardised garment measurement for production tolerance. Pattern literature provides some further details in terms of location, perhaps recognising the potential measurement skill of those using the sources as opposed to general consumers. The standards provided the most specific locations for placing the hip and were most likely to specify landmarks in relation to the skeleton which would be repeatedly locatable on a population. Interestingly whilst no guides or standards suggested set lengths, 37% of retailers indicated a length of 20cm below the waist girth, which was also evident in analysis of the pattern literature regarding measurement guidance and methods of pattern creation (Aldrich, 2008; Knowles, 2005; Kunick, 1984). This is suggestive of proportional expectations of the body similar to methods for representing the fashion figure (Sanderson and Gill, 2014) and assertions of proportional theory from significant earlier clothing related texts (Kunick, 1984; Simons, 1933). With the high degree of variation in hip definition between sources it is evident there will be difficulties in accurately locating the hip, especially when there is the use of soft tissue landmarks which are subject to change with fat and muscle deposition as well as ageing. There is an evident need for further consideration of how to define the hip, especially with the developments in non-contact measurements, like body scanning.

5 References Aldrich,W.(2008),MetricPatternCuttingforWomen’sWear,5thed.,BlackwellPublishing,Oxford,UK.

Knowles, L.A. (2005),ThePracticalGuide toPatternmaking forFashionDesigners, Juniors,MissesandWomen,FairchildPublications,NewYork.

Kunick,P. (1984),ModernSizingandPatternMakingforWomens,MensandChildrensGarments,PhilipKunick,London.

Sanderson,R.andGill,S.(2014),“TurningFigureDrawingonitsHead”,ThePowerofFashion:16thAnnualIFFTIConference,Japan.

Simons,H.(1933),TheScienceofHumanProportions,ClothingDesignerCO.,Inc.,NewYork.