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explorerWHERE DO YOU WANT TO GO NEXT?JUNE/JULY 2013

MAGAZINE

Paradise FoundSeychelleS AdventureS for every trAveller

the new ruSSiAn revolutionSt Petersburg

Hidden GemBAli’S AmAnkilA

Bedding Down in Bavaria

munich’S top Boutique

hotelS

2 www.explorer-magazine.com

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To the latest issue of Explorer, the eco-friendly digital travel magazine dedicated to true world wanderers.

Our summer issue is packed with a fantastic range of travel experiences and adventures to inspire your next getaway, whether it’s a family trip, a solo escapade or a romantic retreat. Start with a scenic drive along the beaches and towns of Australia’s Central Coast, then explore the best teas in the world on exciting experiential journeys through plantations, bars and spas. Next up, get under the skin of St Petersburg and discover how this historic Russian city is undergoing a cultural revolution that is set to make the city a must-see destination. Of course, nothings says summer more than relaxing on a beach, cocktail in hand, so head to the Indian Ocean paradise of the Seychelles and see why it’s a favourite hideaway for celebrities. To round out the issue, we’ve also discovered how Air Seychelles is making a new name for itself, and checked out the Balinese retreat of Amankila. Wherever your journey takes you this season, we hope Explorer, is your consummate digital guide to all the exhilarating experiences the world has to offer.

Happy Travels!

David LeungPublisher Explorer Magazine

I N S P I R E D B Y PA S S I O N

The magical settings fuel our Passion to create for you

The Unique Resort Experience

Begin the U-experience: call (230) 402 2772/73 or visit us at www.constancehotels.com

resort EXPERIENCE by Constance


WORLD IN PICS

Probably Venice’s most recognisable symbol, gondolas numbered in the thousands in the 17th and 18th century,

when they were the chief means of transportation. Now, only some 400 remain, and mainly serve tourists.

Copyright: the Luxury traveL BiBLe

The International Finance Centre in Guangzhou, home to the city’s new Four Seasons hotel, emerges from evening clouds. The tower is the city’s tallest,

and is ranked the 10th highest in the world.

Copyright: Four SeaSonS

Fisherman test their luck in the fading light on Myanmar’s Taugthaman Lake.

Copyright: niCk WaLton

Located in the Cuzco region of Peru, Machu Picchu is a 15th century Inca site that was the official seat of the

Incan rulers until it was abandoned during the Spanish Conquest. The UNESCO-listed site now sees some

300,000 visitors each year.

Copyright: SiLverSea

Through the LensFrom the frozen wilds of Iceland to the underwater marvels of the Great Barrier Reef, your imagination is the only limit to where the world can take you.

By Gayatri Bhaumik

www.explorer-magazine.com 5

Vatnajökull is Iceland’s biggest glacier, covering 8 percent of the country. The glacier was made famous when it was

used to film the opening sequence of the 1985 James Bond film, A View to Kill; more recently, it was a shooting location

for the second season of Game of Thrones.

Copyright: iCeLandiC touriSm Board

A winter wonderland, Frankfurt’s spectacular winter market is one of the biggest in Germany. A tradition dating as far back as 1393, the market is a month-long winter extravaganza where kids marvel at the massive Christmas tree, parents enjoy steaming mugs of glühwein,

and everyone checks off their Christmas shopping list.

Copyright: phiLipp von SaaLFeLd

Beijing’s Hutongs, communities of stone homes centred on traditional

courtyards, have become an increasingly popular tourist attraction,

with hidden resataurants, bars and galleries opening in the ancient homes.

Copyright: niCk WaLton

The Great Barrier Reef is the world’s largest coral reef system, consisting of over 2,900

individual reefs and 900 islands over 2,600kms. Located in the Coral sea, the reef is one of

Australia’s most popular tourist attractions.

Copyright: touriSm auStraLia

From art fairs to horse shows, this is what's

America’s CupSan FranciSco, USaSeptember 7-21, 2013

With the introduction of new boats and a new format of racing, the 34th America’s Cup will be held in San Francisco Bay. Highly anticipated by sailing aficionados all over the world, the new boats being presented his year are more powerful, capable of reaching higher speeds and demanding larger crews. Competitors for the America’s Cup will be determined at the Louis Vuitton Cup in July and August.www.americascup.com

Fashion and Design Festival montréaL, canaDaJULy 31- aUgUSt 3, 2013

Bringing together leading international brands, world-renowned designers and big names in fashion, The Fashion and Design Festival is one of the most glamorous fashion events in Montréal. The four-day festival features fashion shows, art installations, musical performances, real-time design and lots of special events. This year, French artist Jean-Charles de Castelbajac will be the guest chairman of the festival, bringing his creative ideas and designs to the performances. www.festivalmodedesign.com

ART Moscow the centraL hoUSe oF artiStS, moScow, rUSSiaSeptember 18-22, 2013

With participants from more than 14 countries, Art Moscow is the most prestigious contemporary art fair in Russia. The event features large scale art projects, and seminars by famous artists and art collectors. Bringing new elements to the fair, Art Moscow this year will introduce new display spaces for emerging galleries, and late-night exhibitions and events. www.art-moscow.ru

The 95th PGA Championship oak hiLL coUntry cLUb, new york, USaaUgUSt 8-11, 2013

For only the third time, the PGA Championship will attract the golf world to Oak Hill Country Club, one of the finest golf courses in America, for the 95th PGA championship. World-renowned golfers including Tiger Woods and Walter Hagen have competed for the glorious Wanamaker Trophy since 1916. Nicknamed “Glory’s Last Shot”, the high-profile championship is the last major golf event of the season and features the world’s elite golfers as well as new talents. www.pga.com

WHAT’S COMING UP


The Lammermuir FestivaleaSt Lothian, ScotLanDSeptember 13-22, 2013

Featuring classical music performed by ensembles and orchestras, the Lammermuir Festival is a ten-day musical gala in East Lothian, an area in Scotland well-known for its spectacular natural beauty. The festival takes place in historical surrounds like Dunbar Parish Church and the grand Yester House. Bringing together spectacular scenery, buildings and music, visitors can enjoy performances by fine musicians like oboist François Leleux and famed pianist Tom Poster. www.lammermuirfestival.co.uk

World’s Championship Horse ShowLoUiSviLLe, kentUcky, USaaUgUSt 18-24, 2013

Coinciding with the Kentucky State Fair, the World’s Cham-pionship Horse Show features world-class horse competitions like combined driving and dressage by horse breeds including American Saddlebreds, Hackney ponies, and Standardbreds. The championship offers one lucky horse the chance to win US$1million, and the World’s Champion title. The show is divided into different categories including amateurs, ladies and younger horses. www.kystatefair.org

Houston Fine Art FairhoUSton, texaS, USa September 19-22, 2013

The Houston Fine Art Fair is an exhibition showcasing masterpieces by modern artists, as well as emerging artists from around the globe. In two years, it has turned into the most popular art fair in southern USA, with an increasing number of fairgoers each year. Beside galleries, art installations and panel discussions for experienced collectors are also featured at the art fair this year. www.houstonfineartfair.com


happening around your world this season.

Auckland Art Fair the cLoUD, aUckLanD, new ZeaLanDaUgUSt 8-11, 2013

Attracting New Zealand’s top artists and discerning aesthetes from around the world, the Auckland Art Fair showcases contemporary artwork by the most talented artists in the region. Guided by professional art navigators, visitors can view and purchase artworks from the 40 exhibitions and galleries. This year’s highlights will be the celebrated Vernissage, the fair’s preview gala, as well as daily artist talks, and discussion panels featuring notable local and international artists. www.artfair.co.nz

NEWS


Icelandic GamesCapitalising on the huge success of HBO’s fantasy drama Game of Thrones, Iceland experience specialist Discover the World has launched a new self-drive adven-ture which allows fans to follow in the footsteps of their favourite characters. The four-night, five-day Beyond the Wall itinerary takes Game of Thrones enthusiasts through the magnificent filming lo-cations across Iceland’s southern coast. Marvel at Vatnajökull, Ice-land’s own wall of ice; trek across ancient ice fields; see the mysti-cal waterfalls of Skogafoss and Seljalandsfoss; and stay in the same hotel in Reykjavik where the show’s cast and crew stayed while on location. A range of adrenaline-fuelled add-ons are also on offer, allowing fans to take their Game of Thrones experience to the next level; take to the air on an Ice and Fire sightseeing flight; snowmobile across the frozen abyss of Lang-jökull glacier; or ride pure-bred Icelandic horses, just like your fa-vourite Dothraki. Departures are scheduled throughout the sum-mer, from June through August. www.discover-the-world.co.uk

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Slices of SydneyCoach tours specialist AAT Kings has un-veiled a new roster of 12 half and full day tours in and around Sydney, offering visi-tors a convenient way to see the best of Australia’s largest city and its surrounds. A range of experiences are on offer, from dolphin watching in Port Stephens and wine tasting in the Hunter Valley, to cruis-ing under the iconic Sydney Harbour Bridge. The newest offering is the Blue Mountains, a small-group tour in Syd-ney’s famed mountainous region which visits the quaint village of Leura, and in-cludes a sighting of the Three Sisters – an iconic rock formation in the area. For visitors short on time, the City Sights and Harbour Lunch Cruise is a great immer-sive option that includes Sydney’s biggest attractions, like the Harbour Bridge, the Opera House, Manley Beach, the Sea Life Sydney Aquarium, and features lunch aboard a Captain Cook Cruise. Although further afield, dedicated oenophiles won’t want to miss the Hunter Valley Wineries and Gardens tour, which visits award-winning wineries like Lindeman’s and provides a delicious lunch at the Hunter resort. www.aatkings.com.au

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Fly LightAlways looking for ways to improve the customer experience, American Airlines has introduced a new system designed to streamline the often long and chaotic boarding process. In a move that rewards customers travelling light, the airline will offer priority boarding to domestic passengers who can fit their carry-on luggage under the seat in front. Although American Airlines gives passengers a very generous carry-on luggage allowance – over 10kgs more than other airlines – travellers looking to board first will have to pack smart in order to take advantage of the new boarding policy. www.aa.com

Saddle UpIn The Saddle, the expert in destina-tion horse-riding experiences, has re-cently expanded its equine adventure offerings to Bulgaria. Not for the nov-ice rider, the Bulgarian Balkan Trails trip allows guests to gallop through rugged landscapes while appreciat-ing the rich history and culture of this country, which for centuries has been a crossroads between Asia and Eu-rope. Mounted on well-trained steeds, intrepid adventurers will ride through lush mountains and verdant forests and discover hidden rock formations, caves and breathtaking waterfalls. Stops include ancient monasteries filled with awe-inspiring icons and pretty, timber-filled villages set in rural landscapes. For experienced horse-riders, the Bulgarian Balkan Trails offers an once-in-a-lifetime immer-sion into a still relatively-unexplored country. www.inthesaddle.com

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Best of BorneoFor the summer season, Borneo’s Gaya Island Re-sort has introduced the Tailored Trails of Borneo, a series of four unique tours that allow guests to fully experience all the island has to offer. Situated off the coast of Kota Kinabalu in Malaysia, the 121 villa re-sort has introduced these tours to afford guests the chance to get under the skin of area, and immerse themselves in a rich combination of nature, culture and history. The Real Kinabalu is an excursion into the countryside where guests explore a Dusun village and walk a nature trail and the Botanical Gardens; the Countryside Discovery is an two-wheeled exploration in which guests go on a 10km bicycle ride through village homes and bridges suspended over rivers, and snack on local coffee and donuts cooked over a wood fire. For culture buffs, A Cultural Journey im-merses visitors in the local customs with visits to a

local tamu, or market, for fresh local fare, the intricate Fook Tet Kung temple, and the popular Monsopiad Vultural Village. For a real Borneo adventure, check out The Lost World. Take a helicopter ride into the enclaves of the ancient Maliau Basin, a staggering cache of biodiversity, of which less than 50 percent has been explored. Take the opportunity to explore this natural wonder with a licensed guide and take a dip in the secluded waterfalls. www.insightvacations.com


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Vacation CapersThis summer, keep tiny tots entertained for hours during the holidays with a special annual pass for Legoland Windsor Resort. De-signed specifically for the under-five set, the Pre-School Annual Pass allows an adult and child (between three and five years) unlimited access to the Legoland resort between Monday and Friday during the school holidays. The pass much be purchased from the resort and is valid for 12 months, allowing kids a full year to enjoy the toddler-friendly New Dulpo Valley which features the Safari Splash and Play, Brickville, and the Fairy Tale Brook boat ride. For extra convenience, the pass allows resort access for the child plus any adult, be it parent, family member or minder. www.legoland.co.uk

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Historical SingaporeAs part of its efforts to conserve and showcase its unique history, The Fuller-ton Singapore has launched two specially curated heritage tours of the areas sur-rounding The Fullerton Hotel and the Ful-lerton Bay Hotel. The Fullerton Hotel’s Ful-lerton Heritage Guided Tour gives guests a behind-the-scenes look at the hotel’s famous landmarks like the Post Bar, the Straits Room, and The Lighthouse, the hotel’s Italian restaurant which used to house a beacon that guided ships safely to shore between 1958 and 1979. The Maritime Journey Guided Tour explores the historically significant surrounds of The Fullerton Bay Hotel, the area that is now called the Marina Bay Waterfront. Visitors will learn why buildings like Clifford Pier, Customs House and The Fullerton Water-boat House were intrinsic to Singapore’s development, and why they were deemed important enough for intense conserva-tion efforts. www.fullertonhotel.com

Spiritual RootsIntrepid explorers shouldn’t miss the latest offerings from Insight Vacations, three itineraries that venture into the beautiful landscapes and fresh air of Bhutan and Nepal and provide spiritual respite for the world-weary. The sev-en-day Land of the Dragon Kingdom begins in Bhutan’s most iconic land-mark and religious site, the Taktsang Lhakhag temple, and visits Thimphu to see the National Memorial Chorten, a special religious site where visitors offer prayers while walking around the site clockwise and spinning the red prayer wheels. Kathmandu is the main feature of the seven-day Jewels of Nepal trip, which visits Dunbar Square. A pristine example of Newari architecture, the square is home to the Royal Palace Complex and the Kumari Ghar, the res-idence of Nepal’s living child goddess, the Kumari, and is often enlivened by ceremonial processions. Expect stun-ning sunsets and sunrises over the Himalayas. Rugged adventurers will enjoy the wild nine-day Himalayan Adventure where they can stalk Royal Bengal Tigers at Chitwan National Park and navigate dense jungle in a jeep to track deer, wild boar, rhinoceros and monkeys.

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NEWS

The Seychelles remains one of the world’s most sought after destinations

and one resort company’s two properties ensure travellers of every persuasion can find their place under

the sun. By Nick Walton

The Seychelles remains one of the world’s most sought after destinations,

and one resort company’s two properties ensure travellers of every persuasion can find their place under

the sun. By Nick Walton


SEYCHELLES

FoundParadise

m y first view of Constance Lémuria is a rather unique one. Having just arrived from Hong Kong as the dawn bathed light across the Seychelles, a scattering of granitic teeth and jungle-clad peaks rearing up from the deep blue of the Indian Ocean, we had boarded a twin-otter for the 15 minute pond jump to paradisiacal Praslin Island. From two thousand feet, the seas below shimmer

and dazzle, and I watch as yachts make the most of early morning winds, leaving their berths on the main island of Mahé, bound for the beaches of La Digue or Praslin. Then, on final approach, lush plantations wreathed by azure seas flicker by, followed by the fairways, swimming pools and villas of one of the Seychelles' most revered resorts.

The drive to the resort takes only a few minutes as we pass through sleepy villages of brightly coloured homes fronting a stunning lagoon boarded by dancing palm trees. The streets are narrow, and the pace of life is slow, which, combined with stunning weather


SEYCHELLES

Found

SEYCHELLES

and an exotic Indian Ocean locale, has made the Seychelles a coveted luxury destination for generations.

Lémuria is a haven happily hidden away in its environment. Located on a lingering peninsula at the northwest tip of Praslin Island, a favourite with visit-ing millionaire footballers, Constance Lémuria is a luxury resort which has grown into its landscape, and become one with its tropical surrounds. The drive in weaves through the lush fairways of the island's only golf course, a challenging but popular par 70 18-hole course designed by Rodney Wright and Marc Antoine Farry that guests have free access to. A golf cart carries new arrivals into the jungle and up a steep path to a lofty reception, restaurant and cocktail lounge, where cool towels and sweet welcome drinks remind the jetlagged soul that it has arrived!

From the sun-kissed terrace, where guests are still lingering over their breakfast, the view stretches across the resort's terraced main pool, lined with sun loungers, and down to a vast lawn shaded by coconut palms and fronted by a dazzling strip of white sand. Behind, chefs in white coats can be seen in the resort’s new spice garden, plucking


and picking ingredients to be used in contemporary Seychellois dishes served in the elegant Seahorse restaurant, or in cocktails shaken up at the Takamaka Bar.

The sense of tropical intimacy continues at my spacious room, with

its open plan bathroom, decadent king-sized bed, and deep-set fan-cooled, timber-dressed balcony. With signature Constance touches, including an interactive Apple TV, fine linens and rich timber décor, combined with the crash of waves and the rustle of coconut palms in

SEYCHELLES

the morning breeze outside, the room is a welcomed respite from city life.

I discover more of that serenity in the Vallée de Mai Nature Reserve, a short drive from Lémuria. Here, the Seychelles’ iconic coco de mer, the world’s largest seed, grows in ancient palms which


canopy high above the rainforest floor. In the stillness of the forest, rare birds like the Seychelles Black Parrot dance and weave between the towering stems and the world beyond seems distant and surreal. The sensation is fitting for a place once believed to be the Garden of Eden.

If the mountainous valley of the coco de mer palms is the Garden of Eden, then you’ll find your own slice of heaven on one of Praslin’s beaches, including sun-kissed Anse Georgette, an idyllic strip of honey-hued sand and crashing turquoise waves. Located on the cusp of Lémuria’s golf course, the path to the beach lies beside the course’s dramatic 15th hole, the tee shots from which plummet down from the cliff-top tee box towards a verdant green besieged by jungle. We arrive at the beach in time for chilled champagne and a stunning sunset. In the last rays of the day, dolphins frolic on the horizon.

We have another magical day exploring nearby La Digue, a popular day trip for Lémuria guests. The ferry takes only 20 minutes to cross the vibrant blue ribbon of sea between Praslin and our destination, but on tiny La Digue, time seems to linger even slower. It’s in the

SEYCHELLES


way people walk, the way the birds sing, and in the absence of cars; time truly stands still here in paradise.

We navigate a steep mountain road through dense jungle, its canopy capturing much of the sun’s rays, leaving the world below in twilight. Suddenly we emerge at Grand Anse, one of La Digue’s most beautiful beaches. Here, a cocktail bar made of palm leaves and recycled timber plays Creole music and serves ice cold beer and tangy local fish curry as a steady stream of beach bunnies clamber down the sandy trail from the surf line for a reprieve from the sun. We finish the day back at the resort, with a mojito laced with local Takamaka rum and a spectacular private dinner on the rocks above the resort’s Beach Bar,

which in turn is perched above Petite Anse Kerlan. Here, Creole favourites are served under heavens studded with stars.

After two blissful days at Constance Lémuria on Praslin, we once again board a tiny twin-otter turbo prop, bound for Mahé and Lémuria’s sister property, Constance Ephelia. Located on the west coast of Mahé, Ephelia is Constance Hotels & Resort’s newest retreat, a sprawling yet idyllic property nestled between azure seas and the towering peaks of the island’s spine.

It’s these peaks that we acend from the island airport, winding and revving our way up a narrow road which climbs the jungle-clad slopes. We pass tiny village cottages in bright yellows, blues

and green, each with stellar views of Seychelles’ tiny capital, Victoria, far below. On the horizon, the islands of Praslin and La Digue linger in the morning haze.

School children with gleaming bronze skin and brilliantly white school uniforms beam as we pass; the Seychellois are decedents of British and French traders, Arabic merchants and freed African slaves, and the result is a kaleidoscope of faces.

Reaching the summit, we begin the steep decent towards the west coast. The seas glisten and dance and far below, the vivid greens of coastal plantations paint a postcard perfect scene.

Essentially, Constance Ephelia is two resorts in one, and while luxurious

SEYCHELLES


Constance Lémuria is ideally suited for couples looking to escape to the Indian Ocean sun, Constance Ephelia has something for every traveller, from families to newlyweds. With four pristine beaches, a mangrove forest, a world-class spa village and a complement of restaurants and bars, Constance Ephelia is a true home-away-from-home. From spacious beachfront suites, to intimate spa villas – complete with their own treatment suites – and the magnificence of the Hilltop Villas, accommodation suits both travellers looking to retreat, and those looking to explore.

My suite at Ephelia is similar to that at Lémuria; the bathroom opens onto a bedroom and ample living space, which in turn opens onto a blissfully spacious

deck cooled by a ceiling fan. The sea is only steps away, as is one of several resort pools around which batches of suites are nestled. Tropical flowers are scattered across the bed and bathroom and the gentle sound of the sea prevails.

You can be as active or inactive as you like at Ephelia. There are zip lines and rock climbing walls, tennis and squash courts and a modern fitness centre for those that want to work up a sweat. But there is also one of the island’s best wellness destinations, a comprehensive spa village that boasts both a Shiseido Spa and a signature Spa de Constance, as well as a series of hydrotherapy pools. Your taste buds will also be kept entertained, with no less than five restaurants and six bars to

choose from. A daily schedule of classes and events, as well as a comprehensive kids club, ensure parents can get the time out they need and children make the most of their beautiful surrounds.

Deciding to explore my own surrounds, early the next morning I clamber aboard one of the resort’s dive boats as we make our way around the cliffs of the coast to Belon, bound for a wrecked fishing boat that is one of the region’s most popular dive sites. The seas are translucent and mirror-like as we step from the boat, plunging into the bathtub warm waters while millionaires wake in their mansions above. The Aldebaran was deliberately sunk for just this purpose, and its hulk rises slowly from the depths, shoals of curious fish darting through the rusted hull and out its portholes. A silvertip shark watches us from a distance as it circles the wreck, before disappearing into deeper water with an elegant flick of his tail. It’s a breathtaking way to start the day, and a fantastic way to finish another visit to the land between the sky and the sea.

traveL FactSgetting there: Air Seychelles operates between Hong Kong and Mahé via Abu Dhabi, using a modern A330 aircraft. www.airseychelles.com

where to Stay: constance Lémuria: http://lemuriaresort.constancehotels.comconstance ephelia: http://epheliaresort.constancehotels.com/

when to go: July-August ensure warm weather with little humidity.


AUSTRALIA

CoastalContrast


Only an hour’s drive from the bustle of downtown

Sydney, the Central Coast is a postcard perfect

seaside retreat for the rat race weary.

AUSTRALIA

AUSTRALIAAUSTRALIA

W ith water up to their knees, toddlers and giant pelicans eye each other across the gently lapping waters of Ettalong Beach, on New

South Wales' Central Coast. While the toddlers look wary, as any one looking at a such a large bird would, the massive white, black and yellow pelicans seems complete unperturbed by the squeals of children running sugar-induced laps along the beach. Instead, they stand in the estuary's turquoise waters staring at their feet, focused like chess masters looking for dinner.

There are lots of pelicans on New South Wales’ Central Coast, a stretch of idyllic beaches, national parks and tiny hamlets north of Sydney. The giant, docile birds stand in silent occupation at ferry piers, on sandy beaches and atop the odd moored fishing boat. They’re the claim to fame for The Entrance, a favourite weekend destination for Sydneysiders, where, at 3.30pm each afternoon, a quiet but eager flock, each larger than a seven year old, jostles for a late lunch, care of the local council.

With quiet, picturesque beaches, ancient forests, quaint seaside towns and a range of interactive wildlife parks, the Central Coast, an hour’s drive from Sydney, makes for a great weekend escape from the bedlam of Australia’s largest city.

Running from the Hawkesbury River, north to the southern tip of Lake Macquarie, just shy of Newcastle, the region's name hardly does it justice; the Hawkesbury is a stunning river which


AUSTRALIA

yawns into the Tasman Sea, flowing out through a scattering of tiny islands resembling jade stones on a blue velvet quilt. It’s a favourite with yachties and anglers, and its banks are home to popular B&Bs and restaurants, including the water access-only Peat’s Bite.

The complexity of the Hawkesbury and its tributaries can be seen from the Palm Beach ferry, which crosses the river mouth from the most northern of Sydney’s beaches, past Barranjoey Head, tiny Lion Island and the aptly named Pearl Beach, before reaching the tiny town of Ettalong.

Like many Central Coast towns, Ettalong is built around its “club” – charity-run, tax-exempt social centres servicing the local area. The Ettalong Beach War Memorial Club is anything but rustic; there’s the ever-singing ‘pokies’ gaming machines, buffet restaurants, cheap drinks and stunning beach views from the wide terrace. And

if you feel like sticking around, there is also a Mantra hotel situated above, with modern resort-styled rooms complete with kitchenettes and views of the river.

Alternatively, the Sydney-Newcastle highway breaks free from the city’s northern suburbs and gallops along a ridgeline above the Coast’s townships before diving to the water line. The roller-coaster road leading down to Ettalong offers fleeting glimpses of turquoise waterways through thickets of native Australian bush.

In Ettalong, nestled in the Art Deco-inspired Paradiso Cinema complex, weekend markets feature home-made fudge, preserves and local art as well as cheese and wine from the nearby Hunter Valley. The air crackles with the sounds of charity sausage sizzles. If hunger does strike, do as the locals (and many Sydneysiders) do and head to the award-winning La Cucina Cortesi,


AUSTRALIA

an institution on the Central Coast that serves clean, fresh traditional Italian fare and imported wine. Mornings, the sun-drenched courtyard is packed with diners sampling a big breakfast, complete with home made sausages and tomato chutney; owners Marco and Erin Cortesi also produce pesto, sausages and preserves for some of Sydney’s top restaurants.

Ettalong is also home to whale watching cruises which search for signs of humpback and southern right whale cruising past between October and November, on their way from Antarctica to warmer waters. Visitors can get in close to these amazing animals, track their progress and even spot young calves learning the ropes from the rest of the herd. Deep sea fishing is also popular on the Central Coast, with several charter companies operating vessels out of Ettalong.

The Central Coast is perfect for impromptu summer picnics and from Ettalong, it’s a five minute drive to Pearl Beach, and the Mt Ettalong Lookout above. Alternatively, head north, past the craggy cliffs of Daleys Point, to Bouddi National Park and Fletcher's Glen, one of the last temperate rainforests in New South Wales. The park’s domain actually slips beneath the waves of the Tasman Sea, creating a marine sanctuary perfect for snorkelling, while the walk down to isolated Maitland Bay is also a great afternoon trek.

Another beautiful stretch of sand is

located just twenty minutes drive further north, along the Park’s Scenic Road. Copacabana is one of the most idyllic beaches along the Central Coast and a true Aussie icon; bronzed life surfers in tiny red and yellow ‘swimmers’ patrol the beach, while teens learn to surf in the coastal breaks and visitors eat late lunches in the unpretentious local restaurants hugging the sand.

Once you’re beached out, take the winding road through Brisbane Waters National Park, another great spot for hiking, to the highway and the Australian Reptile Park – just look for the massive dinosaur. The park first opened in 1948 and despite a fire which destroyed many exhibits in 2000, remains a key attraction on the Central Coast, with its family of Tasmanian Devils and “Eric”, the 4.7m long crocodile, rarely leaving the limelight. A new spider world has recently opened, displaying local and international species that's not for the faint hearted.

Also nearby is the Australian Walkabout Park, which features over 180 indigenous Australian animals, including koalas, kangaroos and dingo puppies. Guided ranger talks offer insight into the various species, and if you’re seeking adrenalin, the Tree Top Adventure Park, located in the nearby Ourimbah State Forest, features 76 challenges, including suspension bridges, tree climbing and 12 flying foxes.

Where to StayCrowne Plaza TerrigalIf you want to be in the heart of the action, the Crowne Plaza is located right on a stunning stretch of beach and has a popular spa to help ease the aches and pains of hiking through the Brisbane Waters National Park. Pine Tree Lane, Terrigal, Tel: +61 2 4384 9111, www.crowneplaza.com

Star of the Sea Luxury ApartmentsAlso located in Terrigal, these spacious condo-style accommodations are well suited for families looking to be close to the beach and with the comforts of home, including full kitchens and a swimming pool. 8 The Esplanade, Terrigal, Tel: +61 2 4385 7979, www.staroftheseaterrigal.com

Mantra Ettalong BeachLocated in the heart of Ettalong and with stunning views across the water, Mantra is a resort style hotel, with most apartment-style rooms looking over the Hawkesbury or the property's expansive swimming pool. 53-54 The Esplanade, Ettalong Beach, Tel: +61 2 4344 8888, www.mantraettalongbeach.com.au

The Waldorf Apartment HotelIf you're looking to stay in The Entrance, head for these spacious fully-furnished apartments, which come in one and two-bedroom configurations. You'll be close to both the water and The Entrance town centre and can enjoy facilities including a swimming pool and ample security parking. 18 Coral Street, The Entrance, Tel: +61 2 4334 8800, www.the-entrance-waldorf.com.au

Where to eatLa Cucina CortesiFor award-winning Italian fare using the best local seafood and home made breads, pestos and sausages, you can't go past La Cucina Cortesi. Don't forget to try the weekend big breakfast. 47 Schnapper Road Ettalong Beach, Tel: +61 2 4342 7030, www.cucinacortesi.com

Yum Yum EateryThe culinary team at Yum Yum Eatery has a reputation for using the freshest produce available for their health-conscious lunch and dinner menus. 60 Araluen Drive Hardy's Bay, Tel: +61 2 4360 2999, www.yumyumeatery.com.au

Randall's on the BeachFor beachfront dining, you can't go past Randalls, with its modern Italian menus, light lunches and great wine selection. 81 Beach Drive, Killcare, Tel: +61 2 4360 2040, www.randallsonthebeach.com

SeasaltA Terrigal favourite located at the Crowne Plaza, this oceanfront restaurant specialises in great seafood and long lazy brunches. Pine Tree Drive, Terrigal, Tel: +61 2 4384 9133, www.seasaltrestaurant.com.au

What to DoCentral Coast ChartersOffering fishing, dolphin and whale watching excursions, Central Coast Charters operate a modern fleet of vessels and specialise in both game and reef fishing. Ettalong Ferry Pier, Tel: +61 488 123474, www.centralcoastcharters.com

Ettalong MarketsThe largest covered markets on the Central Coast, the Ettalong markets are a great spot if you're looking for food for a picnic, fresh flowers, home made preserves, second hand books and much more. First Sunday of every month. www.ettalongmarkets.com.au

Australian Reptile ParkFor crocodile and lizard lovers and kids of all ages, this is a great day trip. The park boasts one of the biggest reptile collections in the region, with new exhibitions opening all the time. Pacific Highway, Somersby, Tel: +61 2 4340 1022, www.reptilepark. com.au

Australia Walkabout ParkFor a real insight into the unique and fascinating indigenous animals of Australia, the guided walks through the Australia Walkabout Park are a truly exciting and insightful experience. Calga Springs Sancturary, Darkinjung Rd, off Peats Ridge Rd, Tel: 61 2 4375 1100, www.walkaboutpark.com.au

Escape22 www.explorer-magazine.com

HOTELS

Eastern

One iconic property on Bali's eastern flank instills the exotic tranquility of the island's past, while heralding new levels of

luxury for the romantically inclined, discovers Nick WaltoN.


Escape

HOTELS

For regular travellers to Bali looking to escape the bustle of the south, and for newbies looking for an experience that

encapsulates the beauty and spirituality of this remarkable island, Amankila, a clifftop retreat far from the crowds, might be the perfect hideaway from the world.

Aman resorts are synonymous with spearheading trends rather than blinding following behind, and for infusing the culture and traditions of a destination into any stay. Amankila, a palatial citadel of seclusion perched high on the cliffs of Candidasa, is a well-kept secret of the world's jetset, who escape the rat race for its lavish stilted suites, breathtaking infinity pools and chic beach club. Frangipani-wreathed walkways, indulgent poolside cabanas and the lush gardens which surround this end-of-the-world property, combined with the vivid hue of the Bali Sea, define the Balinese experience of old with understated sophistication.


HOTELS

Of course, the most important place in any romantic hilltop hideout has to be the guest rooms, lavish little corners that couples can retreat to after a long day exploring nearby temples and coastal islands. Amankila has 34 free-standing stilted suites, each of which seemingly floats in the warm evening air, connected to the rest of the world only by a tiny walkway. Each spacious suite features traditional alang alang roof thatching, deep covered private patios with day beds, an ample guest room decked out in rich wood tones and a canopied king-sized bed, and in many cases, views down to the sea.

In typical Aman fashion, bathrooms are a celebration of space and contours; our Ocean Suite features a stone shower stall and a bathtub beside a window which opens to the warm breezes coming up from the valley below. Little touches add to the room's elegance, from the coconut-shell dressing table to the terrazzo vanities, to the grinning Balinese deities perched above the front door.

Couples looking to truly escape should opt for one of the resort's pool suites, including Kilasari, which boasts its own 12-metre infinity pool, or the opulent Amankila Suite, with its two bales, beach views, butler service and private aquamarine-tiled swimming pool.

If you do emerge from your room, you'll need sustenance; The Restaurant is located beside the main pool and does brilliant lingering breakfasts with views to kill down the coastline, as well as Asian and Western lunches. A complimentary afternoon tea is served daily in the Library by local women dressed in traditional kebayas. The spicy local ginger tea is not to be missed.

For those willing to further embrace their tropical surrounds, brunch and lunch is also served at Amankila's chic Beach Club, a hideaway within a hideaway. Boasting its own expansive 41-metre swimming pool and attentive service on and off the beach, the Beach Club is one of the island's most


luxurious, and is where many guests while away their afternoons. There are dawn and dusk yoga sessions held on the coconut-strewn lawns, shaded salas perched on the white sand beach, and two teakwood massage tables, perfect for guests who like to combine their wellness with the great outdoors. Reach the Beach Club by the well-worn cliffside track down from the main pool, safe in the knowledge that one of the resort's novel little 4x4 buggies will climb you back to reception.

Of course, not every couple wants to spend their days sequestered, and Amankila's cultural tours offer plenty of opportunities to delve into the local landscape, from visits to the royal water palaces of Klungkung and Karangasem, to the unique religious community of Tenganam, home to a rich and ancient textile tradition. Explore two of Bali's most important temples – Luhur Lempuyang and Besakih – both of which are located in the east, climb the flanks of the sacred Mt Agung, or do we did and join other guests for an afternoon boat trip and a spot of snorkelling on hidden coral gardens. You'll find yourself falling in love with Bali all over again.

HOTELS


MUNICH

Bedding Down in

Baveria

Make the most of the northern summer with a visit to Munich, and choose from these outstanding boutique houses of slumber.

One Of the city’s first bOutique hOus-es of slumber, a member of Design hotels, and one which combines sophisticated, contempo-rary bavarian interiors with one of the best loca-tions in town, the Louis hotel is the perfect base from which to explore Munich. situated beside the city’s acclaimed Viktualienmarkt, which boasts an awesome array of local produce, the Louis’ 72 individually-designed guest rooms resemble chic city apartments more than hotel rooms, and many – including the Market Deluxe – boast Juliette balco-nies overlooking the beer gardens of the markets. After a long day exploring the city’s galleries and extensive parklands, leave time for a schnapps in the lobby bar, a great spot for people watching, before indulging your culinary senses at the emiko restaurant, one of the city’s best Asian restaurants, and one where sharing is at the core of the dining experience. Viktualienmarket 6, Munich 80331, Tel: +49 89 411 19080; www.louis-hotel.com


PerhAPs the city’s MOst LuxuriOus address, the Mandarin Oriental Munich is located within the old town, a location surrounded by museums, theatres and exclusive boutiques. built in 1880 as the city’s opera house, the neo-renaissance building now boasts 73 opulent guest rooms, including 25 suites - our favou-rite of which are the corner suites. each of which has been individually furnished and decorated in beige, smoky blue and salmon pink. Modern touches in-clude bang & Olufsen flat-screen tele-visions, integrated DVD players and high speed internet, which complement bespoke furniture, original artworks and crisp linens. Gastronomes will love Mark’s, the hotel’s signature Michelin-starred restaurant, where executive chef simon Larese cooks up a storm, and if you’re feeling guilty for overin-dulging, borrow one of the Mandarin’s complimentary Mercedes benz bi-cycles and tour the city on two wheels. Neuturmstrasse 1, Munich 80331, Tel: +49 89 290 980; www.mandarin-oriental.com

MUNICH

situAteD in the chic neiGhbOrhOOD Of ALtstADt, the charles hotel, a member of rocco forte hotels, boasts 160 rooms but has the ambi-ance of a chic urban hideaway. crisp and contem-porary, many of the charles hotel's guest rooms over look the Old botanical Gardens, which offer a welcomed respite from city life. rooms are spacious and light-filled and boast original works by the city's acclaimed 19th century artist franz von Lenbach, and indulgent bathrooms where guests can soak away the stresses of the day. Guests staying in the senior suites and above – our favourite is the Deluxe suite which features its own rooftop terrace - can enjoy deep soak tubs and balconies, as well as the rocco forte suite experience, which includes daily continental breakfast, pressing service, complimen-tary local calls and a guest nokia phone, as well as internet access and complimentary in-house movies. Sophienstrasse 28, Munich 80333, Tel:+49 89 544 555; www.roccofortehotels.com

LOcAteD neAr the OPerA hOuse, the Marienplatz, and the famed Viktua-lienmarkt, the cortiina hotel offers chic, cozy interiors reminiscent of a ski lodge that's been plonked in the city centre. created by gastronome rudi Kull and architect Albert Weinzierl, and a member of Design hotels, the cortiina is a sanc-tuary that boasts a feng shui-inspired ambiance throughout its 75 rooms, each of which is decked out in regional materials, including stone pine, bronze, linen and bog oak. be sure to book ahead for one of the cortiina business suites; don't let the name fool you, these are as lavish and design-savvy as they are practical. you'll appreciate the separate living room when it comes to storing all the christmas presents, and there is nothing better after a long day window shopping than a dip in your private whirlpool or a cup of warmed 'grog' in the popular cortiina bar & restaurant downstairs. Ledererstrasse 8, Munich 80331, Tel: +49 89 2422 490; www.cortiina.com


MUNICH


FOODIE TOURS

Few simple rituals have crossed the cultural

divides quite like putting the kettle on for a nice cup of tea. From Britain’s finest hotels to the cocktail dens of

the Orient, intrepid travellers can now

discover the many sides of this simple brew.

Travel To a Tea

FOODIE TOURS


T ouring india's tea villages and mountain-side plantations is a great way to get to the root of this ancient herb. namaste tours offers a comprehensive 10-day IndIa Tea Tour that travels round trip

from Dehli to the acclaimed tea territories of Assam and Darjeeling. tour the monuments and forts of the capital before flying to Dibrugarh, home of Assam's camellia Assamica tea, to learn its history; visit a local tea factory; and sample life at the Mancotta tea estate. in Guwahati you'll visit rowdy tea auctions before travelling on to bagdogra and the Glenburn tea estate, where you'll visit tea nurseries and watch the production process. After sunrise atop tiger hill in the Kanchenzunga Mountains, visit the himalayan Mountaineering institute in Darjeeling and finish your tour with a cup of tea on the Darjeeling heritage railway. www.namastetoursindia.com

in sri Lanka you can shack up at the Governor's MansIon BouTIque HoTel, a fully restored colonial-era mansion wreathed by working tea plantations. set


FOODIE TOURS

poultice with chamomile tea is placed over the body to encourage circulation and relaxation. www.chivasom.com

finally, at hong Kong's newly opened quInary cocktail bar on hollywood road, tea is incorporated into the city's cutting-edge cocktail scene. head bartender Antonio Lai cold washes earl Grey tea to make del-icate molecular caviar, and then uses a citrus vodka with cointreau, fresh lime, lemon juice, cucumber, elderflower syrup and apple juice to make a sen-sational summer take on the earl Grey Martini. quinary also makes a more classic-styled martini with the tea slow brewed in London dry gin, and then mixed with egg white, lemon juice and cointreau. www.quinary.hk

4,000ft above sea level in the famed tea valley of Dickoya, guests can ven-ture out through lush landscaped gar-dens to the mist-covered plantations of the valley to watch pickers harvest the fresh leaves while picking up a few choice stems for your own brew back at the hotel. expect mesmerising photos of the pickers on the steep lush planta-tion hillsides, as they cultivate some of the world's finest tea. www.governors-mansion.com

in the united Kingdom, where much of the Dickoya Valley's tea ends up, you can enhance your tea experi-ence with a dedicated tea sommelier at the lanesBorouGH london. At Apsleys, the hotel's fine dining restaurant, tea is taken as seriously as many restaurants take their wine.

resident tea specialist Karl Kessab helps guest match myriad tea blends with afternoon tea morsels and talks of the characteristics and various prepa-ration methods of different tea styles. be sure to try the coveted rose of the Orient, an exotic anti-oxidant rich green tea blend flavoured with jasmine and rosebuds. www.lanesborough.com

you don't have to take tea with hot water either. At thailand's acclaimed CHIva soM spa village, teas are used to cleanse, revitalise and even exfoli-ate the skin. During the spa's tradi-tional south indian Pampering treat-ment, three therapists from Kerala use warm aromatic oils to massage the body while the third uses traditional Ayurvedic herbs, including sunflower tea, to exfoliate. then a herb-infused


THEME PARKS

G et ready: 2014 will be a year of celebration and new heights at seaWorld Parks & entertainment,

with the world's first face-down drop tower, falcon’s fury, at busch Gardens tampa, and seaWorld’s 50th Anniversary celebration, sea of surprises.

in spring 2014, busch Gardens tampa will take guests’ experiences to new heights with falcon’s fury, the first drop tower of its kind in the world, mi-micking the dive speeds of the fastest animal on earth.

falcon’s fury will stand at 335 feet (102 metres) and take riders plunging straight down at 60 mph. At the ride’s highest point, busch Gardens has added an el-ement of surprise. Like its bird of prey namesake, riders will pivot 90 degrees in midair to a face-down dive position. An instant later they'll plunge downwards at

Exciting New Attractions for SeaWorld Parks in 2014

60 mph and 3.5 Gs with speed and power like they’ve never experienced before.

Located in the timbuktu area of busch Gardens, falcon’s fury will be visible from any location in the park and even across the tampa bay area. With no connecting structures, it will be the tallest freestanding drop tower in north America.

the original seaWorld park opened its gates for the first time in March 1964 on Mission bay in san Diego. to com-memorate a key event in the company’s history, seaWorld Parks & entertainment will launch a multi-park 50th celebration in 2014 – sea of surprises.

from March 21, 2014 seaWorld parks in san Diego, Orlando and san Antonio will share the excitement through celebrations that will highlight some of the most memo-rable seaWorld experiences.

for nearly five decades, seaWorld has

surprised and amazed guests with unique entertainment, thrilling rides and up-close encounters with marine animals. During seaWorld’s 50th celebration, visitors will be invited to take part in the celebration through new interactive experiences, shows and pathway performances, more up-close animal encounters throughout the park, and the seaWorld surprise squad treating guests with prizes every day.

highlights include even more sur-prise encounters with roaming animal ambassadors throughout the day, such as Magellanic penguins, lemurs or even a flamingo parade; celebration giveaways will happen throughout the park, with the seaWorld surprise squad offering on-the-spot prizes; and entertainment, including performers with sea-inspired costumes and props, a bubble brigade and splash mob. www.seaworldparks.co.uk

New thrills and spills are in store for families bound for some of the

USA’s top theme parks.

The New Russian

Few cities maintain the balance between the rich heritage of its past and the potential of its future like Russia’s cultural capital, discovers Nick WaltoN.

RevolutionRevolution www.explorer-magazine.com 33

ST PETERSBURG


ST PETERSBURG

it's mere minutes before the witching hour at st Petersburg's iconic Grand hotel europe, and the elegant lobby lounge and cigar bar is packed with the city's movers and shakers. st Peters-burg's beautiful sip luxury russian

vodkas served by a dedicated somme-lier, and feast on beluga caviar from the caspian sea in a scene that's increas-ingly synonymous with the new face of russia. the country's most historic city is also its most forward moving, as young, affluent Petersburgers flex their capital-ist muscle at a host of chic restaurants, innovative galleries and world-class clubs opened behind historic facades and surrounded by the guilded edifices of the past.

the intimate lobby bar of Orient-express' Grand hotel europe is a fitting place to start any exploration; the hotel has long been an icon in a city of landmarks, and the list of notables who have called it a home away from home is literally as long as your arm. While the likes of rasputin, tsar nicholas ii and George bernard shaw enjoyed the hotel's individually-designed suites and the performances held in the L'europe restaurant (tchaikovsky even spent his honeymoon here), more contempo-rary guests include the red hot chilli Peppers, Leonardo Di caprio, naomi campbell, and sharon stone. both elton John and the late Whitney houston have performed late night impromptu concerts in the hotel, the latter at the vodka bar where the city's A-listers meet

for pre-theatre tipples or late night concoctions, knowing they'll always be in good company.

the 275-room Grand hotel europe epitomises st Petersburg's duality: despite opening 130 years ago, the lavish hotel is a home-away-from-home for visiting royalty, celebrities and politicians, and remains as much a living museum as it is a house of slumber. the house has strong links with the city's art scene, and many of its sumptuous, individually-designed heritage suites are named for russian icons like stravin-sky and Dostoevsky, as well as for past guests like Pavarotti, while the hotel's location offers guests close proximity to st Petersburg's architectural and artistic icons, including the Mikhailovsky the-atre and the russian Museum.

Despite its rich history, the hotel has one foot firmly planted in the present; rooms feature high-speed internet, rain-showers, and flat-screen televisions, while its restaurants and chic bars are populated by the city's upwardly mobile.

“everyone knows the Grand hotel europe,” says natalya Makarova, a jazz singer and law student i discover dressed to the nines and sipping marti-nis with her friends in the hotel's lounge bar. “it's part of st Petersburg's his-tory, and yet it's kept up with the city's development. it's stood the test of time and now is the place to see and be seen more than ever.”

Grand hotel europe isn't the only place attracting the city's new genera-tion of affluent citizens. A modern yet

elegant performance of Giselle at the nearby Mikhailovsky theatre is sold out, with plenty of young, well-heeled ballet goers making their way through powdered snow from the Grand hotel europe's lounges to the regal boxes of the esteemed theatre. established in 1833 by decree from tsar nicholas i, the Mikhailovsky is one of russia's


ST PETERSBURG

ates with its menu of simple yet elegant soviet-era cuisine. A gastronomic map of the former soviet union, the restaurant is as much a celebration of the past as it is a bastion of the future; regular high-profile retro-themed events take place under the restaurant's vaulted ceilings, while intimate concerts are conducted beneath walls covered with propaganda posters and era-art. Waiters slip past a duo of soviet-made scooters hidden under the mezzanine stairs as they serve the new generation the cuisine of their parents. Make your caviar selection from a glass case located beneath shelves of ussr-made toys, Lenin busts, and shim-mering sickles, before ordering from a comprehensive menu that leans towards Georgian dishes, a favourite with all rus-sians. the katmis satsivi, a Georgian-style chicken dish served with a walnut sauce, is stunning, as is the salmon tartar with caviar and sour cream; and the delicate pelmeni dumplings.

Only a couple of blocks away, city insiders walk off their meals with retail therapy at the Great Gostiny Dvor, the city's iconic and utterly expansive department store. not only is the Grand Gostiny the oldest retail centre in the city, it's regarded as the world's first shopping arcade and its yellow- hued arches, reaching towards the hori-zon, can't be missed. building

oldest opera and ballet houses. under the bolsheviks, it became a home for experimental music, with several debuts taking place between the 1920s and 30s. in an effort to attract new audiences, russian businessman Vladimir Kekhman was appointed general director in 2007; he donated one billion rubles (us$40 million) to the restoration of the build-ing and invited elena Obraztsova and farouk ruzimatov to coordinate the artistic revival of the Mikhailovsky. the theatre's full-time troop has since toured internationally and now rivals the well-known Moscow-based bolshoi ballet company, drawing in affluent Peters-burgers for packed shows.

“What do they know about ballet in Moscow,” laughs one glamorous mink-

clad patron during the intermission. “everyone knows st Petersburg is rus-sia's cultural heart, and the Mikhailovsky proves it with every performance.”

Down the road, the equally famous Mariinsky theatre, famed for its operatic performances, will soon benefit from a new 2,000 seat theatre designed by canada's Diamond & schmitt Architects. the new venue will be dedicated to modern performances, and will comple-ment the lavish original venue and an adjacent concert hall which opened in 2007.

from the Mikhailovsky, it's an easy walk to another hot spot located in the nearby Grand Palace luxury shopping mall. here, chaika, a unique concept res-taurant, is turning heads and pleasing pal-


ST PETERSBURG

commenced in 1757 with elaborate designs by bartolomeo rastrelli, but a recent renovation has brought this unique retail setting into the 21st century, and now countless boutiques and an extensive department store fill the cavernous space, drawing in a mink- clad crowd of affluent families and tourists from the luxury hotels of the city centre.

you'll also find the social set in the palm-lined coffee lounge at the elisseeff

emporium, further down nevsky Prospe-kt, the city's most elegant thoroughfare. Originally built in 1902, this acclaimed department store was opened by the elisseeff brothers, and the food hall on the ground floor is a mesmerising show-case of all the luxury tipples and titbits the new generation of russians have come to enjoy, from hand-made truffles to diamond-filtered vodka, imported cheeses and caspian caviar. be sure to browse the luxury spirits counter for

bottles of beluga and imperia vodka, considered by many to be russia's top drops, and kick your feet up with the city's elite in the intimate coffee shop at the emporium's heart.

Although st Petersburg is famed for its classical art collections, much of which can be found in the russian Museum, or the hermitage, the con-temporary art scene is also heating up. the hermitage will open a dedicated modern art wing in 2014, and galleries are cropping up across the city, cater-ing to new collectors. erarta, located on

ST PETERSBURG

Vasilievsky Ostrov, or basil's island, one of the city's 42 urban isles, boasts the country's largest non-governmental col-lection of contemporary art, and is dedi-cated to promoting russian art from across this vast country. With branches in London, new york, and Zurich, and with hong Kong opening later this year, erarta's collection features more than 2,000 pieces by 150 artists, and is as much a museum as it is a commercial gallery. Another leading art venue is Loft Project etagi, which is made up of three galleries and exhibition spaces and an

art-themed bookstore, hidden away on Ligovsky Prospekt.

you can contemplate these collec-tion in the newly re-opened Letny sad, or summer Garden, situated on its own 12-hectare island on the south bank of the neva river. Managed by the rus-sian Museum, and accessed from the Dvortsovaya embankment, join the city's trendsetters as they make the most of summer's white nights with picnic din-ners and live concerts amongst the 18th century marble statues and tree-lined alleys of the 300 year old park.


travel factsGetting There: Aeroflot has turned its back on its rather rocky past with new aircraft and direct flights between hong Kong and Moscow, and on to st Petersburg. www.aeroflot.ru

Where to Stay: Grand hotel europe, nevsky Prospekt, Mikhailovskaya 1/7, tel: +7 812 329 6000; www.grandhoteleurope.com

backgroUnDAir seychelles has been operating as the national carrier of the seychelles since the airline’s inception in 1977, but has recently been revitalised by 40 percent owner Abu Dhabi-based airline etihad. now with new aircraft, newly trained staff and new routes, Air seychelles is set to be a dynamic regional carrier.

the LoUngethe airline’s executive lounge at Mahé, named the Le salon Vallée De Mai, is a pleasure to visit. spacious and inviting, it features captivating views across the runway to Praslin island, comfortable couch and table seating, and a rustic tropical ambiance that’s a nice final farewell to passengers leaving the seychelles. there is a full bar set up as

AIRLINES


The

That Could

with the new look Air Seychelles, you don’t have to wait until you reach the islands to enjoy authentic creole hospitality.

well as hot and cold snacks, a magazine selection and high speed wifi. When it was time to board, a friendly Air seychelles crew member escorted us to the gate.

in FLightOn this flight to hong Kong via Abu Dhabi, we flew on Air seychelles’ new A330-200, a modern aircraft with 18 lie-flat business class seats in a 2-2-2 configuration. each of the comfortable new seats features leather and fabric upholstery, a privacy shell, and a pitch of 82-inches, which is an impressive product for such a small airline.

the seats lack usb connectivity, but are more than comfortable for the four and a half hour flight to Abu Dhabi and the further eight hour flight to hong

Kong, thanks to a 65-degree lie flat position, lumbar support and massage function.

initially, the leg rest of my seat wasn’t working and by departure time in Abu Dhabi, other aspects of the seat had also failed despite mechanics being called. fortunately the cabin wasn’t full and i quickly relocated myself to a functioning seat.

Passengers are greeted on each sector with champagne and hot towels, as well as amenity kits that features a moisturiser, a tooth brush and the all-important eye mask and ear plugs.

DiningDining is another area where Air seychelles really shines. After intensive training by etihad, the crew were friendly,

airlineliTTle

AIRLINES


professional and efficient, taking meal orders before takeoff (and making the most of long delays at Abu Dhabi in both directions), timing meal service to suit individual passenger’s sleep requirements and offering service with grace and smiles.

Dinner started off with glasses of Joseph Perrier Marquis de Joncry brut nV champagne, matched perfectly with a prawn and smoked salmon salad with papaya salsa and a balsamic reduction. the main options included creole chicken breast with savoy cabbage; grass-fed beef with rosemary potatoes;

sweet and sour fish with steamed chinese broccoli; or a trio of vegetable parcels as the vegetarian option. the chicken was elegant and well portioned, and went well with the Oyster bay sauvignon blanc from new Zealand. Dessert consisted of warm apple tart or mango cheesecake followed by a section of imported cheeses, fresh fruit with orange coulis, or Providore natural ice cream.

Summarythe seychelles is a relatively new destination for travellers from Asia but the new-look Air seychelles ensures the holidays begins well before touchdown. www.air-seychelles.com

Monkeys, Blossoms & Temples:

A Journey to the Heart of Japan

Monkeys, Blossoms & Temples:

A Journey to the Heart of Japan


READER'S REPORT

Japan is a land where antiq-uity and modernity vie for your attention. this contrast, combined with a tradition-rich culture, buddhist and shinto

spiritual traditions, and natural attrac-tions, make Japan an appealing travel destination. After many trips to northern Japan for skiing, i decided to venture south, and explore its heartland on a five-day solo adventure through the towns of takayama, Matsumoto and nagano in search of monkeys, cherry blossoms and temples.

On the four hour train ride from na-goya to takayama, you instantly notice the order and calm that is synonymous with travelling in Japan. no one is talking on their mobile phone, queues form quietly along platforms and station masters willingly offer assistance as you purchase a ticket.

takayama, founded in the 16th cen-tury, is located in the hida Mountains of Gifu Prefecture and is called the ‘Little Kyoto in hida’ thanks to a warlord who

designed takayama based on his beloved hometown. takayama is full of character, with an old quar-ter, outdoor morning markets, sake breweries, hot spring foot baths, forest walks, temples and shrines.

Known as san-machi, the old quar-ter consists of three streets near Miya-gawa river that preserve much of the look and feel of the castle town from the edo period. you can easily explore the area on foot or by ricksaw. Old merchants’ houses with latticed doors and windows, restaurants, gift shops and sake breweries line both sides of the street. there is a saying in Japan that ‘where there is cold, there is good sake’. While many more breweries used to exist here in the past, there are still a number that continue to produce their own unique sake, which visitors can sample.

set in the mountain foothills to the east of the old quarter is the higashi-yama area, which has a high concentra-tion of buddhist temples, shinto shrines

and a castle. you can explore over 15 temples on the 5km walk, all unique and different, many with large bell towers. it is while on a tranquil stroll through the forest that you can appreciate the beauty of the temples while enjoying views of snow-capped mountains in the distance. ruins of the castle are located in shiroyama Park, which offers a great view over the takayama valley and has over 1,000 cherry blossom trees that were starting to bloom at the time of my visit in early April.

takayama’s morning market is one of the biggest in Japan. it takes place at two locations: one is held in front of the takayama Jinya, an old former samu-rai house, and sells vegetables, fruits,

Explorer reader Sharon Sloman heads south to discover a whole new side of her favourite Asian destination.


READER'S REPORT

pickles and spices. the other is on the banks of the Miyagawa river and sells sweets and crafts, such as sarubobo dolls and wooden carvings. the local apples from these markets were a deli-cious treat on my temple hike.

One of the highlights of my trip was being able to stay at takayama hostel Zenkoji temple Guesthouse, a traditional Japanese buddhist temple. some of the rooms have views over a private meditation garden. sleeping on a tatami mat and futon in the temple’s main hall beside an exquisitely deco-

rated altar was a unique experience, as was performing Kaidan Meguri.

this ritual requires you to descend into a dark passage under the temple, where your goal is to find a sacred lock, known as the Key to Paradise. As you enter the passage, with all your faults, you experience the trials of the darkness, which i must say was quite a challenge. When you find the sacred lock you are said to attain peace. you then continue through the dark passage until you find the light. On exiting the passage perhaps you will see your life in a brighter light.

snow fell during the two hour bus journey from takayama to Matsumoto, which traversed a scenic snow-laden mountain range and into a long val-ley covered with fields and orchards. Matsumoto lies between snow-capped mountain ranges with peaks soaring 3,000 meters high, and boasts a superb castle surrounded by cherry blossoms, a magnificent setting, cycling, hot springs and clean mountain air.

Matsumoto castle is one of the most complete and beautiful castles in Japan. built in 1592 with its characteris-tic black façade and wooden structure, visitors can climb up the six storeys inside the castle, which has steep stairs and low ceilings leading past displays of armour and weapons. the nar-row wooden windows, once used by samurai, provide amazing views of the Japanese Alps, Matsumoto city, and the koi circling in the moat below. the castle’s black colour stands starkly in contrast to the gorgeous pink and white colours of the hundreds of cherry blos-soms planted around the castle moats and grounds.

the cherry blossom season in Matsu-moto started earlier this year on April 3, and usually lasts about 10 days. During

the festival (known as hanami), you can enter the castle courtyard at night for free, and it was lovely to see so many families braving the cold to view the cherry blossoms. the castle and cherry blossom trees are beautifully illuminated and as you stroll around you can enjoy the sounds of kotos (long Japanese zithers), flutes, and court music from musicians positioned in the castle’s moon-viewing tower. you can also try a Japanese tea ceremony in the garden.

One of Japan's signature experi-ences is lodging at a traditional inn, known as a ryokan, where you can observe some of the unique Japanese customs. from the moment you take off your shoes and enter ryokan seifu-so, you will be welcomed with unsurpassed hospitality. rooms feature traditional tatami mats, low wooden tables and futons. bicycles are provided, and cycling into town along the river flanked by cherry blossoms and snow-capped mountains views is a treat. At the end of a long day, you can enjoy a traditional bathing ritual, which includes putting on a yukata (robe) and taking a long soak in the hot mineral spring bath.

nagano Prefecture is often referred to as the ‘roof of Japan’ because of the spectacular mountain scenery, which i was treated to on the two hour bus ride from Matsumoto to nagano to Kanbayashi Onsen, for a day trip to see the snow monkeys, the highlight of my adventure.

Jigokudani yaen-koen, or snow Monkey Park, 33 km from nagano, is home to about 160 wild Japanese ma-caque monkeys, who spend their time lazing in hot spring onsens and playing in the surrounding hills. With their thick fur coats, almost human-like faces, and their deep, soulful eyes, these snow monkeys quickly won my heart. for hours, i was mesmerised by the youthful play of the baby monkeys, and the lackadaisical grooming between elderly members of the troop in the afternoon sun.

you will be amazed at how freely you could walk and sit amongst the monkeys, though you should not look directly into their eyes as this is inter-preted as an aggressive act. unfortu-nately, the snow had melted at the time of my visit, but it gives me an excuse to return in winter.

there is an energy and rhythm in Japan unlike anywhere else in Asia, based in part, on the deep respect the Japanese people have for one another, their culture and their beautiful environ-ment. happy travels, sayonara.

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