Western Lakes & Mountains

Volume 8, Issue 7

Maine’s History Magazine

Maine In ChinaTwo brave teachers slain by the “Boxers”

The Gaeltacht Of Greenwood

Immigrants from County Galway settled here

David Buxton’s Miracle Medicine WagonBusinessman from Abbot pedaled “miracle cures”

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DISCOVERDISCOVERMMAAIINNEE

2012Western Lakes Western Lakes & Mountains Region& Mountains Region

www.discovermainemagazine.com

— Western Lakes & Mountains Region —DiscoverMaine2 ~ Inside This Edition ~

4 Eastman JohnsonThe American Rembrandt from LovellJames Nalley

9 Thomas Phelps: Rear AdmiralThe Civil War’s naval surveyor from BuckfieldJames Nalley

11 Livermore Veteran Will Always Be RememberedCrossed the Delaware with WashingtonIan MacKinnon

16 Maine In ChinaTwo brave teachers slain by the “Boxers”Sherwood W. Anderson

20 Whatever Happened To Vaughn Meader?Waterville-born comic got his start parodying JFKCharles Francis

23 Albert W. Grant: The Admiral From BentonA true son of MaineCharles Francis

27 A Town AwakenedA story of murder and mystery in ReadfieldDave Bumpus

30 Mail Delivery By BoatBelgrade’s unique postal serviceClarence W. Bennett

33 Charles Heywood: First Marine Corps Major GeneralWaterville-born Marine responsible for modernization of the CorpsCharles Francis

36 Antonia Savage And Percy GraingerNorth Anson woman became hugely successful impresarioCharles Francis

40 Seboomook FarmHome to German POWs in MainePenny S. Harmon

42 Sonny Parlin: A RemembranceDecember 1, 1928 – May 11, 2011Sherwood W. Anderson

46 Daggett Rock: Maine’s Largest Glacial ErraticA glacier carried this giant rock to PhillipsJames Nalley

49 Philbrick Of The Rainbow DivisionSkowhegan native volunteered for military dutyCharles Francis

55 David Buxton’s Miracle Medicine WagonBusinessman from Abbot pedaled “miracle cures”Charles Francis

58 Country DoctorRural medicine of days gone byClarence W. Bennett

62 The Great Rangeley Lakes Of Maine In Days Of YoreA brief history of founding familiesMatthew Jude Barker

65 The Proud Skiing Tradition Of RumfordSkiing began in the early 1900sJames Nalley

69 The Gaeltacht Of GreenwoodImmigrants from County Galaway settled hereMatthew Jude Barker

74 Norway’s Mark Hill DunnellEducator, soldier, leader extraordinaireCharles Francis

77 The Time Dad Knocked The Train Off The RailsQuite a stunt with a Model-AFranklin Irish

79 Directory Of AdvertisersSee who helps us bring Maine’s history to you!

Discover MaineMagazine

Western Lakes & Mountains Region

Front cover photo:Campers at blue Mountain Camp in Weld

from the Eastern Illustrating & PublishingCo. Collection and www.PenobscotMarineMuseum.orgAll photos in Discover Maine’s Western Lakes &Mountains edition show Maine as it used to be,

and many are from local citizens who love this part of Maine.

Photos are also provided from our collaborationwith the Maine Historical Society and the

Penobscot Marine Museum.

Discover Maine Magazine is distributed to fraternal organizations, shopping centers, libraries,

newsstands, grocery and convenience stores, hardwarestores, lumber companies, motels, restaurants and other

locations throughout this part of Maine.NO PART of this publication may be

reproduced without written permission from CreMark, Inc.

Copyright © 2011, CreMark, Inc. SubSCRIPTION FORM ON PAgE 47

Published Annually by CreMark, Inc.

10 Exchange Street, Suite 208Portland, Maine 04101

(207) [email protected]

www.discovermainemagazine.comPublisher

Jim BurchDesigner & Editor

Michele FarrarAdvertising & Sales Manager

Tim MaxfieldAdvertising & Sales

Sarah BellowsChris BiggarRyan BourgoinMontana CoffinTeri HakansonCraig Palmacci

Office ManagerLiana Merdan

Field RepresentativesGeorge Tatro

Contributing WritersSherwood W. AndersonMatthew Jude BarkerClarence BennettDave BumpusCharles Francis

[email protected]. S. HarmonFranklin IrishIan MacKinnonJames Nalley

— Western Lakes & Mountains Region —Discover

Maine 3

Notes From The Fayette Ridgeby Michele Farrar

Recently I invited my old friend Bob, wholives up here on the ridge, over for din-ner. He was late. I called his house — no

answer. I called his cell phone. (Bob reluctantlygot a cell phone last year. He is dead set against

keeping up with technology,but his adult children thoughtotherwise and fixed him rightup.)

When Bob’s cell phone wentunanswered, I started to worryjust a bit. Bob doesn’t like any-one worrying about him —

he’s generally a private person and doesn’t sub-scribe to the notion that anyone needs to knowwhat he is doing at any given moment.

Thirty minutes later Bob arrived. The firstwords out of his mouth were: “Is there a roadanywhere in the state that isn’t under construc-tion? Did the state get a windfall for road re-pair?”

It’s true — nearly all of the roads within 60miles of my house are under construction. It’sbeen going on for so long that the flagger’s facesare all becoming familiar. Bob says he can tell youwhich ones smoke, whether they drink water orsoda, and what kind of cars they drive (you can seethem parked at odd angles in the ditches).

Anyone who has driven through LivermoreFalls or Jay this summer knows the frustrationwell. (The locals know the back roads, and traf-fic has been heavy there.) Bob says when he’sgoing through construction, and it’s his turn togo, he likes to look at the faces of the drivers inthe line waiting. Many of them are on the phone,some are staring back at him, others are tryingto avert chaos with small children in the back-seat. Bob says he can spot the non-locals rightaway — especially the “outta staters.” They’re theones with their heads hanging out of the win-dow, trying to see as far ahead as possible, esti-mating how long they are going to be sitting inthis dust trap.

Bob was late because he had to stop for gas.There’s only one full-serve station left in the area,and he likes it. They wash your windshield andcheck the oil. Bob says it’s the only place you canstill get pampered. Anyway, the flagger wasstanding three car-lengths in front of the en-trance to the gas station. Bob waited ten full min-utes to get to the pumps. When he was done, hehad to wait another ten minutes to get onto thestreet. Then, out of the blue there were sirensand the construction guys were waving at Bob’sline like NASCAR pit guys to drive as fast as pos-sible in the narrow culvert they were passing off

as a road. Fire trucks and an ambulance weremaking their way through town. Bob sped upand then pulled over at the first opportunity, withtwo wheels in a sand pile. The trucks nearlygrazed his pickup on the way by.

Bob got out of town and thought he had aclear shot to Fayette. Route 17 has recently beenre-paved, and although we thought we were outof the woods on that road, there are still stripesto be painted. Bob hit another stall courtesy ofa flagger.

I’ve learned to cope by saving certain choresfor what we now call “flagger downtime.” Iapply makeup in the car instead of at home. Thismeans I can leave ten minutes earlier, then domakeup during the downtime, and I come outeven in the end. The only problem with that iswhen my line is short or I get there just as it’s myturn. I’ve arrived at work with one eye made upand the other one naked.

Bob says he’s going to stay home for the mostpart, until the construction is done. He’s retired,so that could work for him. For the rest of uswho travel to Livermore Falls and Jay, I knowI’m not alone when I say I’m looking forward toone spectacular stretch of Route 4 when it’s fi-nally finished!

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— Western Lakes & Mountains Region —DiscoverMaine4

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In 1859 a 35-year-old artist fromMaine unveiled an exhibition ofpaintings from his studio in New

York City. Among the artwork sat oneoil-on-canvas work titled: “Negro Lifeat the South.” The scene includes ayoung couple in the foreground flirtingwith each other as a banjo player sere-nades an adult woman dancing with herchild, which all occurs under the col-lapsing roof of a dilapidated house. Onthe far right, there is a young whitewoman in a white dress watching curi-ously. The realism of the painting showsskin tones that vary greatly from personto person with focus on the lightertones. According to John Davis in his1998 article in The Art Bulletin, thisglimpse of mixed racial heritage caused

both proponents and detractors of slav-ery to use this work to defend their po-sitions. From the controversy, thispainting had become the artist’s master-piece, and it secured his position as oneof the most important Americanpainters of the 19th century.

Eastman Johnson was born in Lovell,Maine, on July 29, 1824. He was the lastof eight children born to a prominentbusinessman, Philip C. Johnson, whoeventually served as Maine’s Secretaryof State between 1840 and 1844. Hisfamily’s name was not just limited to hisfather’s work because his oldest brother,Philip C. Johnson Jr., was a successfulnaval officer who eventually became acommodore in the service. After a shortperiod in Fryeburg, the family moved to

Augusta in 1834, and remained at theirhouse on 61 Winthrop Street until 1846.Eastman, on the other hand, stayed onlyuntil 1840 when his plans took him toBoston, Massachusetts.

In 1840 Eastman Johnson began workas an apprentice in a lithography shop inBoston where his talent allowed him tohone his skills and become a portraitartist using crayon and chalk. For thenext nine years, he produced highlypraised work by sketching prominentfigures such as Nathaniel Hawthorne,Ralph Waldo Emerson and HenryWadsworth Longfellow. In 1849, fol-lowing a trend by other American artists,he moved to Düsseldorf, Germany,where he apprenticed with artistEmanuel Leutze. Leutze, a German

Eastman JohnsonThe American Rembrandt from Lovell

by James Nalley


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painter, is best known for his work,“Washington Crossing the Delaware,”which is one of the most recognizedpaintings of the Revolutionary War.From 1849 to 1855 his study and travelstook him to The Hague in the Nether-lands to focus on the works of 17thcentury Dutch masters as well as Paris,where he studied with French historicalpainter and teacher, Thomas Couture.But in 1855, Johnson was forced to re-turn to the U.S. after his mother sud-denly passed away.

After his return from Europe, John-son visited his sister in 1857, who wasliving in the “western frontier” in whatis now the northwestern portion ofWisconsin. There he met an African-American fur trader, George Bonga,who had married a native Ojibwewoman. This experience had changedhis overall approach to painting, wherehe re-focused his artistic eye on subjectssuch as scenes that depicted living situ-ations and everyday activities. Althoughhe stayed only for a short period of

time, his work changed dramatically. Hisfocus on the smallest details displayedphotographic realism approximately 100years before the Photorealism move-ment was even established in the 1960s.This aspect and his careful attention tolight can be seen in all of his subsequentworks.

In 1859 Johnson moved to New YorkCity, where he established a studio andquickly gained a reputation in the artis-tic circles. He continued to expand onhis repertoire by painting everythingfrom urban scenes to prominent figuressuch as Abraham Lincoln. But his pri-mary focus remained on everyday peo-ple living in everyday scenes, and histravels took him from Maine (as seen inworks such as “Sugaring Off at theCamp, Fryeburg”) to the southernUnited States. Following his marriage toElizabeth Buckley in 1869, his work in-cluded portraits of his wife and youngdaughter. His work even extended intoscenery of Nantucket, where he spenthis efforts producing works that in-

cluded his well-known “The CranberryHarvest, Island of Nantucket.”

In 1870 the New York State Legisla-ture wanted to establish a city museumand library that primarily focused on artand the study of the fine arts. After anact of incorporation, the MetropolitanMuseum of Art opened its doors onFebruary 20, 1872. Housed in a smallbuilding located on Fifth Avenue, thefirst exhibit consisted of a personal artcollection belonging to a prominent rail-road executive. Overseeing the eventwas the co-founder Eastman Johnson,who gladly accepted the role in the for-mation of this important museum. Inhis remaining years from 1880 on, John-son’s work was in great demand with pa-trons, and he wascommissioned toproduce many formal portraits for bothlocal and national figures.

According to a New York Times articleon April 6, 1906: Eastman Johnson, the por-trait painter, died last night at his home, 65 West 55th Street. Mr. Johnson had been

(Continued on page 6)


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complaining of feeling ill and feeble for a month.He was 82 years old, and when he showed signsof heart weakness some months ago he told hisfriends that the end was near, and that he wasprepared. Last evening at about 6 p.m. he wasstricken with a fainting spell, and althoughmedical attention was immediately given him,he was unable to rally, and died and hour later.Mr. Johnson died in the presence of his wife,Elizabeth Buckley Johnson, and his son-in-lawand daughter, Mr. And Mrs. Alfred R. Con-kling.

He was buried at Green-Wood Ceme-tery in Brooklyn. Today, the Metropoli-tan Museum of Art has become one ofthe world’s most important art muse-ums. It has grown from its humble be-ginnings to more than two millionsquare feet of floor space with a lengthof approximately a quarter mile. In-scribed and immortalized on its en-trance is Eastman Johnson, one ofAmerica’s most respected artists, origi-nally from the state of Maine.

(Continued from page 5)

Other businesses from this area are featured in the color section.

Cow and Moose, Stoneham, ca. 1938. A moose and cow in a pasture in Stoneham.The moose was locally famous, named Joe Pete by warden William R. French, andlived in the area around Speckled Mountain near Lovell and Stoneham from 1934-1939. The moose would graze alongside the cows while hundreds of sightseers

would come and look on. George W. French, who took the picture, was staff pho-tographer for the Maine Publicity Bureau from 1936-1955. He took photos that

would promote the natural beauty of Maine and encourage tourism. Item #22054from the collections of the Maine Historical Society and

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Lovell, ca. 1950. The shores of Kezar Lake are lined with boats, swimmers, campers, fishermen and women duringthe summer months. This photograph is part of the Wittemann collection which is a large set of photographs

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— Western Lakes & Mountains Region —

Located within the tree-lined,

northwestern portion of Section

1 at the Arlington National

Cemetery is a grave that stands out

among the rest. Unlike the majority of

the gravestones that honor the nation’s

heroes that consist of white marble, this

one is made of dark-gray stone with

three tiers capped off with a large cross.

It honors a rear admiral in the United

States Navy from Buckfield, who ap-

proximately 150 years earlier, com-

manded a critical battle in North

Carolina during the final year of the

Civil War.

Thomas Stowell Phelps was born in

the town of Buckfield, Maine, on Nov.

2, 1822. At the age of 18, he joined the

U.S. Navy and served for three years on

the sloop Boston, which traveled along

the Mediterranean and Labrador coasts.

At the end of his tour in 1843, he was

assigned to the U.S. Naval Academy in

Annapolis, Maryland, where he received

his commission as an officer in Febru-

ary, 1846. After graduation, he rejoined

the Boston and eventually served on three

other ships, including the Polk, the Inde-

pendence, and the Constitution with an im-

peccable service record.

In January 1856 Phelps, then a 34-

year-old lieutenant, was assigned to the

sloop Decatur. The Decatur was stationed

in Puget Sound in anticipation of possi-

ble conflicts with several tribes of Na-

tive Americans in the Washington

Territory, which is near present-day

Seattle. After receiving reports that a

tribe had occupied the nearby woods,

the commander of the Decatur, Guert

Gansevoort, ordered a landing force

that consisted of both Marines and

sailors. According to historical records

from the U.S. Naval Institute:

Supported by a howitzer, which they brought

ashore with them, and the ship’s battery firing

solid shot, shells, grape shot, and canister, the

landing party engaged the Indians and drove

them back within thirty minutes. By 10 p.m.,

all firing had ceased when the Indians disen-

gaged and retreated with their dead and

wounded into the woods. No sailors or Marines

were lost due to fighting and the actions of the

combined (force) had safeguarded the frontier

settlement.

Although the records both glorified

and simplified the conflict, Phelps

would later publish his own recollection

of the event in much more vivid and

gruesome detail.

After the Civil War began in 1861,

Confederate forces attempted to destroy

all of their navigational aids on their ter-

ritory’s major rivers in order to hinder

future Union attacks. In order to sup-

port the Union’s future offensive plans,

Phelps secretly surveyed, charted and

marked the Confederate coast despite

the incredible danger. In the fall of the

same year, Phelps commanded the

steamer Corwin, which surveyed Cape

Hatteras, where he successfully fought

the Confederate gunboat CSS Curlew

and sunk two Confederate vessels. His

efforts would prove to be successful for

the Union Navy and he was recognized

by the Secretary of the Navy for his

services.

But January 1865 would be the time

when Phelps would earn his greatest no-

toriety for his leadership and actions. As

a lieutenant commander, Phelps led his

DiscoverMaine 9


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steam sloop Juniata in an attack on FortFisher, which was the last supply routeopen for Confederate forces to supplythe port at Wilmington, North Carolina.The Juniata was positioned as one of thecentral ships in the main wave of 56 ves-sels that bombarded the fort for two-and-a-half days. As the fort’s defenseswere weakened due to the bombard-ment, a landing force of 8,000 Unionsoldiers attacked and successfully con-quered the crucial location on Jan. 15,1865. His final major Civil War servicewas on April 16, 1865, during the Battleof West Point (Georgia) where he pre-vented a large Confederate force fromrejoining their main army, which aidedthe Union victory in that conflict aswell. Later that year, Phelps received hispromotion to commander, and six yearsafter the Civil War had ended, Phelpswas promoted to the rank of captain in1871.

One of his most important historical

contributions was in 1882, when hepublished his “Reminiscences of Seat-tle: Washington Territory and the U.S.Sloop-of-War Decatur During the IndianWar of 1855-56.” Despite the fact that itwas written approximately 30 years afterthe event, it was apparent that his mem-ory of the battle was crystal clear withwriting that included vivid details:

The roaring of an occasional gun from theship, belching forth its shrieking shell, and itsexplosion in the woods, the sharp report of thehowitzer, the incessant rattle of small-arms,and an uninterrupted whistling of bullets, min-gled with the furious yells of the Indians, tran-spiring beneath an overcast and lowering sky,pictured a scene long to be remembered by thosewho were upon the ground to witness it. Ayoung man (Pocock, or Wilson, as he calledhimself), having benefited by the protection af-forded by a stump, for an hour or more, lost hislife by the severance of the spinal column withan Indian bullet, while in the act of running tothe rear, for the purpose of procuring water toquench his thirst.

In 1885 at the rank of rear admiral,Phelps retired after completing 45 yearsof service. He lived his final yearswatching his own son quickly risethrough the ranks as a naval officer, anddied in the Naval Hospital in New YorkCity on Jan. 10, 1901, at the age of 78.Episcopal funeral services were held atthe residence of his daughter, Mrs.T.B.M. Mason, and his body was es-corted to Arlington National Cemeteryby United States Marines as the MarineBand performed in honor of his serv-ice. His pallbearers included three Navycaptains, one Marine general and twoAdmirals. He is buried in Grave 504,Section 1, next to his wife and son,Thomas Stowell Phelps, Jr., who also be-came a rear admiral.

Perhaps it was best said by Phelps atthe end of his published reminiscencethat showed his true love of the sea de-spite his difficult experiences in battle:

In three hours our noble vessel once more rodeover the long gentle swell of the broad Pacific,and when well outside of Cape Classet, andclear of Duncan’s Rock, the hawsers connect-ing our ship with the John Hancock were castoff, and as she swept around in a graceful curveon her return to Puget’s Sound… As our eyesturned in the direction from whence we hadcome, with the exception of the writer, every of-ficer, and nearly every man on board the U. S.sloop-of-war Decatur looked for the last timeupon the magnificent Strait of Juan de Fuca.

DiscoverMaine10


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Captain Elisha Williams evidentlyheld onto his hat as he cruisedthe Delaware River with General

George Washington. Born in East Hartford, Connecticut,

Williams graduated from Yale College in1775 and, caught up in the patriotic fer-vor sweeping New England, joined theAmerican Army besieging Boston. Gen-eral George Washington later appointedWilliams as an adjutant. Ultimately pro-moted to captain, Williams capablyserved during the Revolutionary War.

After America gained its independ-ence from Great Britain, Elisha Williamsalmost faded into history. He shouldhave done so; like so many young Amer-ican officers, Williams enthusiasticallyreturned to civilian status and experi-enced a life remarkably mundane among

New England’s college-educated elite inthe late-18th and early-19th centuries.

But Elisha Williams did not vanishinto history. He later brought his educa-

tion and religious faith to Livermore andhelped incorporate that town in 1795 —and local histories recall his civic in-volvement. He probably learned aboutcivic responsibilities from his father, thestern Rev. Eliaphalet Williams.

Evidently not a preacher to mince hiswords, Reverend Williams pastored anEast Hartford church from 1748 to

1801, and died in late June 1803. He wasburied in Center Cemetery in East Hart-ford. Elisha’s mother, Sarah Williams,died in January 1800; one sister, Fanny,lived only 11 years before dying in 1792,yet another sister, Abigail, lived from1783 to 1867.

Elisha’s parents likely named a daugh-ter Abigail because in 1780, three yearsbefore the baby’s birth, Elisha marriedAbigail Livermore, eldest daughter ofDeacon Elijah Livermore and his wife,Dinah. Originally from Waltham, Mas-sachusetts, Livermore served there as adeacon (then a lifetime honorific) andselectman before moving to the futureLivermore in the District of Maine in1780. Abigail Livermore was born in1757; she died in 1817 (one record lists

Livermore Veteran Will Always Be RememberedCrossed the Delaware with Washington

by Ian MacKinnon


Elisha Williams did not vanish into history. He later brought his educationand religious faith to Livermore and

helped incorporate that town in 1795.


her death as occurring in July 1818). Elisha Williams brought Abigail north

to Maine to live near her parents in1790. Reverend Livermore participatedin local government, opening his houseto Livermore’s second town meeting onAugust 10, 1795 and supporting votesto maintain the roads and operate theschools.

His son-in-law evidently garnered re-spect from his neighbors. After arrivingin Livermore, Williams became the firstschool teacher and participated in localreligious services. On August 7, 1793,seventeen people (11 men and sixwomen) organized the First BaptistChurch of Livermore, with ElishaWilliams counted among the originalmembers; Abigail Williams was not.This church initially met at a houseowned by Zebedee Delano (anotherchurch founder) and served the town’sBaptists until the Second Baptist Churchformed in 1811.

During their March 6, 1796 townmeeting, Livermore voters tapped El-isha Williams as moderator, a positionto which he was elected during townmeetings in 1797 and 1798. The nextyear, Dr. Cyrus Hamlin supplantedWilliams as moderator, but Livermorevoters named him clerk and treasurer.

Elisha Williams did not stay forever inLivermore. Ordained a Baptist ministerin 1799, he moved to Brunswick thatyear to pastor a fledgling Baptist church.After Abigail’s death, Williams marriedRebecca Bridge in the early 1820s. Hewould die in 1845 while pastoring a Bap-tist church in Beverly, Massachusetts.

With his death, Elisha Williamsshould have vanished from Americanmemory. Even the fact that he partici-pated in a dramatic river crossing, frigidwinter march, and bloody battle shouldhave been lost to history — but thatsame fact apparently propelled him intoa painting as famous as any painting inAmerican history.

In his A History of Livermore, Maine,Reginald Sturtevant reported thatWilliams “was one of the most fasci-nating characters among the town’sfounders.” Sturtevant’s words remain aclassic understatement, because Conti-nental Army veteran Elisha Williamsmade history on December 25, 1776.

After his battered, hungry and coldsoldiers placed the Delaware River be-tween themselves and pursuing Britishtroops in December 1776, GeneralGeorge Washington contemplated hisarmy’s future. Driven from New YorkCity and relentlessly chased across NewJersey, the American army faced defeatwhile entering a rudimentary camp inPennsylvania, upriver from Philadelphia.Many regiments would vanish as enlist-ments expired at midnight, December31, and unless those soldiers agreed toserve longer,Washington would lose hissurviving veterans.

He decided to attack a Hessian-heldpost at Trenton, New Jersey. American

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troops would cross the Delaware Riveron Christmas Night 1776, march southalong the local roads, and attack theHessian garrison around dawn, hope-fully while the enemy troops were sleep-ing off their Christmas revelry.

History remembers that night. Ill-cladsoldiers marched through a cold rain toMcConkey’s Ferry on the DelawareRiver. As the dropping temperatures so-lidified the rain to sleet, John Glover andhis Marblehead seamen manned largeDurham boats that could carry artillery,horses, and soldiers across the river toNew Jersey.

The sleet became a wind-driven snowthat blanketed the riverbanks and coun-tryside. Washington boarded a Durhamboat and waited patiently as Glover’shardy seamen navigated a DelawareRiver not actually covered by treacher-ous ice floes, as erroneously depicted ina later painting.

Accompanying George Washingtonon his Delaware River cruise that nightwas Adjutant Elisha Williams. He “wasin the same boat with Washington at thecrossing of the Delaware,” Sturtevantwrote in his Livermore history.

Elisha Williams’ descendants did notdoubt that he sailed in Washington’sboat. A great-grandson, Henry StaplesPotter, would claim that Williams servedduring the Revolutionary War as “an aideof Washington, and crossed the Delawarein the same boat with the general.”

Washington and Williams made his-tory that night and the next morning,when yelling American soldiers emerged

from the winter storm to surprise andoverwhelm three Hessian regiments atTrenton. “Our men pushed on withsuch Rapidity that they soon carriedfour pieces of Cannon out of Six, Sur-rounded the Enemy and obliged 30 of-ficers and 886 privates to lay down theirArms,” Washington wrote in a Decem-ber 28, 1776 letter.

Elated American troops took theirprisoners with them while withdrawingto Pennsylvania. The victory reignited adimming passion for liberty, Americansrallied to the cause, and “the rest,” as thephrase goes, “is history.”

Not quite. In 1851, German artistEmanuel Leutze painted “WashingtonCrossing The Delaware.” This dynamicwork dramatically captured the tensionas a Durham boat containing 13 sol-diers, including a cloak-clutchingGeorge Washington, crossed theDelaware River on Christmas Night1776. The painting became an Americanicon well-known to schoolchildren forseveral generations.

Supposedly only three men could beofficially identified in Leutze’s painting.Everybody recognizes Washington, hisright knee placed firmly near the boat’sthwarts. Behind him stands James Mon-roe, his arms securing an unfurled American flag. Unfortunately, noextant historical records indicate thatMonroe actually sailed with Washingtonthat stormy night.

Working an oar beside Washington’sright knee is a black soldier, identified asPrince Whipple. He did capably serve inthe American army, and he earned hisfreedom for doing so, but Whipple wasactually stationed in Baltimore thatnight.

The other men in Washington’s boatremain unidentified, except for one, thesoldier seated immediately behind JamesMonroe. His eyes focused on the Jerseyshore, the man clasps his hat with hisright hand, apparently to keep the hatfrom blowing away in a wind that dis-turbs no other hat aboard the boat.

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In Livermore, local lore and a Williamsfamily tradition identified this soldier,probably an officer as indicated by hiswell-trimmed coat, facings, and sleeves.He’s Elisha Williams, Washington’s adju-tant, a man who would be at his com-mander’s side no matter where, no matterwhen.

“Leutze’s well-known painting of thatevent depicts [Elisha] Williams behindWashington, holding onto his hat,”Sturtevant proclaimed in his book. Hedoes not indicate how he knows this fact.Williams’ descendants probably told him,because as attested by great-grandsonHenry Potter, Elisha Williams cruised theDelaware River in the same boat withGeorge Washington on December 25,1776.

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Two womenfrom Portland,Mary Morrill

and Annie Gould,teachers at a smallboarding school forgirls in China, werecaught up in the violentanti-western Boxer Up-rising of 1900.

Mary Susan Morrill,born in Deering, nearPortland, went north tothe two-year Farming-ton State NormalSchool to become ateacher. While a stu-dent she joined OldSouth CongregationalChurch in January 1884, diagonally across Main Street fromF.S.N.S. Returning to Portland and transferring her member-ship to the Second Parish Church, she taught a Sunday schoolclass for interested Chinese, the beginning of her love forChina. While living with her parents Rufus and ElizabethMerrill, her younger sister Sarah and still younger brother Ed-

mund, she taught fouror five years in Port-land area publicschools. Then, uponapplication, she wasapproved to teach inChina by the AmericanBoard of Commission-ers for Foreign Mis-sions.

In her passport affi-davit of February 4,1889, Mary describedherself as 25 years old,5 foot 2, blue eyes, darkbrown hair, fair com-plexion and face“rather thin.” She af-firmed she was a loyal

citizen of the United States. Her purpose was “to travelabroad and reside in the Empire of China.”

Mary was sent to Paotingfu (now Baoding) in north China,60 miles from the capital Peking (now Beijing). There shestarted the “Girls Boarding School” with two dozen or so stu-dents, and it became her “home.”

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Maine In ChinaTwo brave teachers slain by the “Boxers”

by Sherwood W. Anderson

Mary S. Morril Annie Gould


Mary was joined at the BoardingSchool by another teacher, Annie Allen-der Gould. Annie, five years youngerthan Mary, was from Bethel in OxfordCounty. Her father John W. Gould, abank teller, moved with wife Amelia toPortland for another bank position.Annie was the eldest of her brothersOliver and Theodore. She graduated in1882 from Mt. Holyoke in Massachu-setts, then a small church-related Con-gregational College for women.

Annie Gould was sent also by theAmerican Board to China, where shejoined Mary at the Girls BoardingSchool, learned Chinese and began toteach. Mary came back to Maine April12, 1897 after eight years in China, re-maining a year and a half, leaving theschool in Annie’s charge. She rejoinedAnnie in Paotingfu in 1898, just a yearbefore the terrifying Boxer Rebellionbegan.

“The Righteous and HarmoniousFists,” or “Boxers” as they were calledin the West, with the tacit approval of

the Dowager Empress, determined todrive from China all foreigners and theirChinese adherents, or kill them. Christi-anity was not truly a foreign doctrine,having been in China in some formsince A.D. 630, when Nestorian Chris-tians arrived and carved their historyonto the stone stele in Xian. Christianor not, it made no difference to the Box-ers.

Trained for brutality, the fightersdrilled naked to the sash around thewaist, both hands gripping the ribbon-streamed handle of a long curvedsword, slashing downward with all theforce a coiled torso and upraised armscould leverage. Rev. Frank E. Simcoxwrote of them, “The Boxers are a soci-ety of people who practice magic andbelieve they can become invulnerable,that a rifle ball will not affect them, andthey can swallow a cannon ball at will.This they confidently believe, and manyjoin them because of this. Several ofthem have been killed, but they say theyhad not obtained the art, and so con-tinue to deceive.”

Frank’s wife, Mary Gilson Simcox,wrote her last letter from Paotingfu May3, 1900, “Sometimes at night when thewind blows across the plain (you knowwe are out on a plain with no housesnear us) and it is exceptionally dark, Ilook out the window and when I see alantern moving here and there, a senseof utter helplessness comes over me.The city gates are closed always at nightand cannot be opened. If a band should

attack us we could not send word to theofficials. Oh, so many things can comeinto one’s mind, if one gives way to it.But you must not tell this, for when theday comes, I have no fears whatever.”

Annie Gould in her last letter wrote:“I know perfectly well the possibility ofdanger, but generally speaking, it doesnot weigh on me, or when it does, I justcry out and pray for grit . . . I can’t tellyou exactly what I fear; not death noreven violence at the hands of the mob,for the physical suffering would be oversoon and God can give strength for that. . . If I live, I will send you another let-ter soon. Pray for Mary and me. ‘If noton earth, will meet in heaven’.”

On May 30, 1900, with the Boxerscamped only miles from the compoundto the north, south, east and west; andmail, telegraph and railroad services cut,a courier got Mary’s last letter out: “MissGould and I cannot leave if we would,and would not if we could.” She andAnnie, together with a Mrs. Tu, fled tothe chapel for prayer and consultation.“Now we can only wait. Our lives are inGod’s keeping. He may ask us to laythem down very soon.”

The Boxers attacked the Paotingfumissionaries June 30 and July 1, 1900.The Simcox family, Frank, his wife Maryand baby Margaret died inside theirhouse when it was set on fire, and Fran-cis and Paul, five and seven, were cutdown running from the building.

Rev. H. Tracy Pitkin, trapped in the

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chapel with Mary and Annie, intimi-dated the Boxers from its windows withhis revolver until he ran out of ammu-nition. The mob broke in, shot and be-headed him and seized the women.Pitkin’s body was put in a pit just out-side the compound, along with ten or soChinese Christians and servants. Pitkin’swife Letitia, with their two-year-old Ho-race, had left in March for America, shehaving suffered a nervous breakdown,and so survived.

Annie fainted, frightened by the bru-tal Boxers. They trussed her hands andfeet, passed a pole through, and swungher live, like a pig carried to market.Fearless Mary, of considerable moralcourage, was able to walk, led by thehair. She exhorted the people as theyproceeded, giving a piece of silver to apoor wayside person, no longer havingneed of it. The others were tied by arope binding both hands to the neckand strung to the next behind, boundthe same way. Gladys Bagnell walked

free holding her mother’s dress, and wasspeared by a Boxer despite motherEmily’s pleas. The four-year-old was thefirst to die. Two Boxers led the proces-sion toward the city. The clutching mobtore at the garments of Mary and Anniebut did not strip them.

Outside the southeast corner of thecity fortress the missionaries were be-headed without torture. Their bodieswere laid in a shallow pit, frequently dis-turbed and reburied. An officer of theU.S. Army at the site four months laterfound no trace of their remains.

The Boxer Uprising was a disaster forChina. About 250 Protestants andCatholics were martyred, including 11adults and four children at Paotingfu.20,000 or more Chinese Christians wereslain, including fifty at Paotingfu. “It is agrief too great for tears,” wrote IsaacConrad Ketler, biographer of the Paot-ingfu martyrs.

The Boxers were defeated in 1901 bya coalition of troops from Great Britain,Germany, France, Japan, Russia and the

United States. They forced China to payenormous reparations for damage donethe property of their nationals. The Rev.Arthur H. Smith, an American Boardmissionary from Connecticut, helpedpersuade President Theodore Rooseveltin 1906 to use part of America’s indem-nity to provide scholarships for Chineseto study in America, and $32 million wasspent for this purpose.

“Yale in China” was established by thefriends of Rev. H. Tracy Pitkin, a Yalegraduate, to provide Chinese with ad-vanced training in western medicine.The exchange of students and facultybetween Yale University and Yale inChina continues to this day, though nowsecular and under another name.

A darkly tarnished bronze tablet, af-fixed since 1916 in the sanctuary ofFarmington’s Old South Church, reads:

Mary Susan MorrillBorn Deering Maine March 24, 1863Graduated Farmington State Normal

School 1884Joined Old South Church 1884Accepted Missionary to north China under

A.B.C.F.M. 1888Crowned a martyr at Pao Ting Fu July 1,

1900And a young Chinese officer standing by and

witnessing how she died became a Convert tothe Christian faith. Later he became China’sfamous Christian General Feng Yu Hsiang

“And when Stephen was stoned a young mannamed Saul stood by and consented to hisdeath.”

Memorial services for the slain wereheld on several continents, and in theUnited States in churches of many de-nominations. The memorial service atOld South on a December Sundayevening in 1900 was filled with peoplefrom all Farmington churches.

Outside a city in distant China somehandfuls of Maine earth, unmarked andunremembered, await the Day of Res-urrection.

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Vaughn Meader was once one of the biggest names in

show business. Back in 1963 he had the biggest selling

album of all time. That album was The First Family, a gen-

tle — that is an appropriate word to describe it — parody

of President John F. Kennedy. The First Family wasn’t just

the best selling comedy album of 1963, it outsold all al-

bums!

If anyone deserved a bit of success it was Vaughn

Meader. His early years were spent in a succession of chil-

dren’s homes. Then, when he graduated high school, he

went in the Army. While he was stationed in Germany he

discovered he was enough of a talent to take a real stab at

show business. He was a good singer and composer in the

country and bluegrass genre. However, it was his comedic

style that appealed to audiences, especially in The Village in

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Whatever Happened

To Vaughn Meader?Waterville-born comic got his

start parodying JFKby Charles Francis

Vaughn Meader parodying JFK


New York.

What audiences liked was

Meader’s New England accent.

It was a legitimate accent, one

that had its roots in his home

state of Maine and that had

acquired a Boston glaze while

Meader attended high school

in Brookline. Because John F.

Kennedy was President,

Boston accents were an “in”

thing. Most comedians

couldn’t do one well though,

or else “they laid it on too

thick.” Meader’s had the ring

of reality.

Vaughn Meader rocketed

to national stardom at age

twenty-seven and vanished

just as quickly with the as-

sassination of President

Kennedy. After the Presi-

dent was shot in Dallas, Meader suddenly found

that he couldn’t get a booking. Even previously scheduled ap-

pearances were canceled.

For all intents and purposes Vaughn Meader disappeared in

November of 1963. He did, didn’t he? Well, not quite.

What Meader did when he found that he was

persona non grata in most enter-

tainment venues across the

country was to come home to

Maine. He even ran a restau-

rant here for a while.

Vaughn Meader’s stardom

was based on his ability to par-

ody John F. Kennedy. His career

didn’t end with the death of

President Kennedy on Novem-

ber 22, 1963, though. It simply

took another form, most notably

in the ski resorts of the moun-

tains of western Maine, in places

like Rangeley and the Carrabassett

Valley. It was here that Meader

found he had a home, not in Wa-

terville, the town where he was

born, nor in Auburn, where he

died.

You had to see and hear Vaughn

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Meader perform in places like theRangeley Inn to know that he didn’t justcurl up and die with the death of thePresident, although for a time he cameclose to it, getting involved in the worldof drugs and alcohol.

The lesser-known side of VaughnMeader is that of a performer who wasquite comfortable as a country and blue-grass singer. And country and bluegrasswas popular among the sort who fre-quented the ski country around Betheland Farmington.

Meader even produced an album ofcountry and bluegrass songs, some ofwhich he wrote. The album was the1969 The Whatever Happened to VaughnMeader Album. There were songs on itlike the standards “Old Rugged Cross”and “It Came Upon A Midnight Clear.”It also had Meader’s own compositions“Going Down to Maine” and “Rabbit.”Those who saw Meader perform inMaine — he had something of a cult

following — made “Going Down toMaine” a Meader anthem.

Vaughn Meader’s early life has the fla-vor of rags-to-riches fiction. Not onlydid he go through a succession of chil-dren’s homes, he was bounced out ofone. In school, however, he was drawnto vocal music and the piano. The Armyprovided him the opportunity to pursuehis musical interests. While stationed inGermany he joined a band. Then, whenhe was discharged, he worked up a com-edy routine. This led to The First Family,appearances on The Ed Sullivan Show anda gig in Las Vegas.

Vaughn Meader’s life was never a bedof roses — one addiction he couldnever lick was cigarettes. It led to em-physema and his death in 2003. How-ever, he was never destitute and foundcontentment and a following here inMaine with his music. In the late ‘90sthere was even a revival of interest in hisKennedy parodies. He made one lastalbum, The Last Word, using his Kennedy

voice. The album, which was made pos-sible by a renewed nostalgia for theKennedy era, was clearly Meader’s finaltribute to the fallen President.

The answer to the question “What-ever happened to Vaughn Meader?” isthat he never went away. Meader’s TheFirst Family is still the best selling com-edy album of all time. It is also the onlycomedy album to have won theGrammy for Best Album of the Year,ever! As for The Whatever Happened toVaughn Meader Album, the songs from itare still around. You can even downloadthem from the Internet to your MP3player.

DiscoverMaine22


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In the Spring of 1892 a junior gradelieutenant named Albert W. Grantwas assigned to the USS Pensacola.

At that time, the Pensacola was in drydock at Mare Island off the coast ofCalifornia, not far from San Francisco.Lieutenant Grant’s responsibilities re-garding the steamship were to see to herrefitting and upgrading. Part of that re-fitting included electrifying the vessel.

The USS Pensacola was one of theNavy’s older vessels, having beenlaunched in 1859. During the Civil Warshe had been part of Flag Officer Far-ragut’s West Gulf Blockading Squadron,and had taken part in the sea attack ofthe lower Mississippi and occupation ofNew Orleans.

Following the war, she had twice been

assigned to the Pacific Squadron. Refit-ting her with electricity was somethingof an experiment, due to her age andthe fact that she was a wooden vessel.The reason the Navy had decided to goahead with the project was to see if itwas feasible to do the same thing withother old warships.

Lieutenant Albert Grant was success-ful in carrying out his assignment ofelectrifying the Pensacola. What he haddone was to pioneer a system andmethod of modernizing older naval ves-sels, extending their usefulness fordecades to come. Shortly after complet-ing his duties with the Pensacola, Grantwas promoted to full lieutenant, and thenext year assigned to the Naval Acad-emy at Annapolis as an instructor. Grant

would eventually retire from the Navyas an Admiral.

The fact that Albert Grant was bornin Maine would not surprise many, giventhe state’s maritime traditions. The factthat he was born in Benton would,though, as the town has no connectionswith the sea. Moreover, the fact that theGrant family followed the route of agood many Maine families west, andthat Albert Grant spent his adolescencein Wisconsin, makes the fact that hechose the Navy as a career even moreunique. Yet, he did make the Navy hiscareer, and it was a career that led him tocommand of the North Atlantic Fleetduring World War I.

Albert Weston Grant was born in

DiscoverMaine 23


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East Benton on April 14, 1856. His par-ents were E. B. and Elvira Grant. E. B.Grant was a cabinet maker. AlbertGrant was the oldest of four children.Following the Civil War, the Grant fam-ily headed west as pioneers, finally set-tling in Stevens Point, Wisconsin. Atschool in Stevens Point, the future com-mander of the North Atlantic Fleet ex-celled in mathematics and the sciences,so much so that he won a competitiveappointment to the United States NavalAcademy.

Following his graduation from An-napolis in 1877, Grant was assigned to anumber of vessels, including the Pen-sacola, which he would later refit withelectricity. Most of his duty was in thePacific, ranging from Puget Sound in thenorth to Chile in the south, and as farwest as Hawaii. He was also assigned tothe naval yard in Norfolk to oversee therefitting of vessels in dry dock, and wasone of the first naval officers to un-

dergo torpedo training. During theSpanish-American War he saw duty onthe battleship Massachusetts.

In 1898 when war with Spain was de-clared, the USS Massachusetts was one ofthe newest of America’s battleships. Shehad been built specifically as a responseto the arms race, which eventually led toWorld War I. During the Spanish-Amer-ican War the Massachusetts took part inthe bombardment of Santiago, Cuba,performed blockade duty of Cuba, andwas one of the American warshipswhich forced the Spanish cruiser ReinaMercedes to run ashore to avoid beingblown out of the water.

The vessel on which Albert Grant hadhis longest tour of duty at sea bore aMaine name. She was the USS Machias.The Machias was a Bath-built steel gun-boat. In fact, she was one of the firsttwo vessels built by Bath Iron Works forthe Navy. Grant was on the Machiasfrom September of 1898, when he leftthe Massachusetts, until July of 1900. Dur-

ing his tour of duty on the Machias, thegunboat did patrol duty in theCaribbean, primarily “showing the flag”in the ports of those countries whereAmerican interests were threatened byrevolution.

From his duty on the relatively smallMachias, Grant went on to become ex-ecutive officer and then commander ofthe battleship Oregon. The Oregon wasstationed in the Far East to protectAmerican interests in the Philippinesand China.

In 1905 Grant was made head of theSeamanship Department at the NavalAcademy. At this time he wrote TheSchool of the Ship. The book was a text onnaval tactics. It was “the” standard onthe subject until the post-World War IIyears. It is the only book ever written bya Maine man on the subject.

Grant went on to command two morebattleships, and was commander of theConnecticut when the United States en-tered World War I. In the summer of

DiscoverMaine24


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1917, he was given command of Battle-ship Force I of the Atlantic Fleet. Atthis time the Atlantic Fleet consisted ofthree warship forces — the BattleshipForce, the Cruiser Force and the De-stroyer Force. In December of 1918Grant was made commander of the en-tire Atlantic Fleet. While the fleet as awhole saw no great engagement — theGerman Navy was bottled up in itsNorth Sea home port — it did sink anumber of German U-boats.

Albert Grant ended his career in theNavy as Commandant of the Washing-ton Navy Yard and as Superintendent ofthe Naval Gun Factory. Albert WestonGrant, the admiral from Benton, diedon September 30, 1930. His maritimerecord stands as a testament to the factthat he was a true son of Maine.

DiscoverMaine 25

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Nestled in the quietand scenic mountainregion of central

Maine’s Kennebec County sitsthe rural town of Readfield.This charming communityboasts Kent’s Hill School — aprestigious, private institutionthat has been recognized by lit-erary standards as a high rankin education. The town also ac-commodates numerous indus-trial factories that areconveniently placed so as notto obstruct the beautifulmountain range and lake-pep-pered forests. The land isranked number one in Mainefor stock raising and dairying.

But this gorgeous and serene town has secrets like any otherplace in the world. It is not without its fair share of tragedy.For over a century it has lived up to its reputation of a nice,family-friendly environment. But on August 17th, 1905 acrime would be committed that would rock this quiet com-

munity, along with the entirestate of Maine and the nation.

Summers in Maine can bedescribed as manic. The suncan shine like a high beam oneminute, and the next minuteyou may find yourself in a tor-rential downpour. On that dayin August the residents wereblessed with sunshine — idealfor being outdoors or workingon household chores.

Young Mattie Hackett was 17years old at the time. She wasbeautiful — many men desiredher company. She was consid-ered smart, proper and well-mannered, and hardly one togo with just any man who fan-

cied her. She knew her own beauty and she picked her en-gagements carefully. In the end, that may have been a fataldownfall.

Mattie was a hard worker as well. After attending the MaineWesleyan Seminary and College (now Kent’s Hill School), she

DiscoverMaine 27


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held jobs locally at the Woolworth’s inLewiston, and later atthe Elmwood Hotel. When not working for pay she wouldwork around the home for her mother and father.

That Thursday evening in 1905 Mattie was doing just that.Although she had recently fallen ill due to appendix compli-cations, she was doing chores around the house with hermother. At some point, her mother left to call on aneighbor, instructing Mattie to continue wash-ing dishes to get ready for dinner. That’swhen a stranger approached the premises.

He introduced himself to Mattie’s fa-ther as “Johnson,” and explained that hewas a traveler. He asked Mr. Hackett if hecould have a place to stay for the night and,in return, would help with any chores thatneeded to be done. Being the kind and gentle manthat he was, Mr. Hackett agreed, and instructed Mattie to setan extra plate for the stranger. She obliged, and the two menwent out to the stables to do some work.

What happened within the next few minutes remains a mys-tery. By some accounts, Mattie could be heard screaming fromthe house, prompting her father and the stranger to investi-gate. According to the Attorney General, Mr.

Hackett and the stranger returned to the house. Whatever thetruth, the result was the same.

Mattie was gone. Mr. Hackett rushed to find her.Upon exiting the home, Mr. Hackett could hear the slight

screams from his daughter in the distance, but as he pursuedthey faded away. He found her on the ground about 50 yardsfrom the home, unconscious. She had been clubbed over the

head several times. The sun had been setting, and asMr. Hackett carried her back to the home, there

was just enough light to expose the real rea-son she was despondent. Her throat hadbeen cut. It was later revealed that she hadbeen strangled with a thin cord so vi-ciously that it had penetrated her neck.The immediate assumption was that the

murder had been commited by “tramps,” a ref-erence to homeless persons. But investigations

came up with nothing to prove that theory. The story gainednational attention when more investigations turned up cold.It would be seven years before anything new would come tolight.

In 1912 the police had been working on a theory that thekilling may have been over a jealous rivalry. They had a name,too — Mrs. Elsie Raymond. They arrested the wife and



mother of two and charged her withmurder. The Augusta courthouseflooded with reporters, all taking notesand delivering the details to a waiting na-tion. And although Mrs. Raymond pro-fessed her innocence, the evidenceagainst her was staggering.

A witness had reported a woman fit-ting Mrs. Raymond’s description walk-ing up the Hackett family driveway onlyminutes before the murder. It was alsocontested that Raymond worked as aweaver in the Turner Woolen Mill,something extremely convenient as it isrumored that the cord used to strangleMattie was tied with a weaver’s knot (al-though some speculate that fact as beingplanted in the investigations).

The most compelling piece of thepuzzle, though, is a book from the locallibrary.

Although it is known that the book isof Australian origin, its title and authorwere not made public. However, it is the

content of the novel that caught peo-ples’ eye. In it, a woman is killed bybeing beaten over the head and stran-gled with a cord. It was found that Mrs.Raymond was in possession of thisbook at the time of the murders.

There was also motive to support thejealousy theory. As stated before, Mattiewas beautiful and was the subject ofmany men’s affection. But the most im-portant was Mr. Bert Raymond, Elsie’shusband. It was known that Mr. Ray-mond and Ms. Hackett would often goon long drives together. It is not clear asto whether any adulterous activity evertook place between the two, but the oc-currences were frequent and, in theprosecution’s eyes, enough to push Mrs.Raymond to commit the crime. Al-though young Ms. Hackett was not con-sidered promiscuous, she may havechosen the wrong man to be spendingtime with.

The jury however, did not agree, and

after hearing both arguments decidedthe evidence against Raymond to be cir-cumstantial. She was found innocent ofthe crime and acquitted, an event thatshe took relief of as it diminished yearsof suspicion that tainted her name. Theverdict put skeptics in an uproar. Suspi-cion is seldom extinguished by a mereacquittal. Many people still believe shewas responsible for the death of the girl.

On that hot, August day in 1905, thetown of Readfield, Maine had its tran-quil and peaceful shell cracked by a vio-lent and senseless crime. Who killedMattie Hackett? Mattie knows. Her killerknows. But the murder took place over100 years ago. Evidence has disinte-grated, and persons involved have longsince passed. Because of the effect ofunrelenting time, the truth may never beknown.

DiscoverMaine 29

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Mail Delivery By BoatBelgrade’s unique postal service

by Clarence W. Bennett

This is the story of a mail route on the waters of GreatPond in the lakes region of the Belgrades. The route hasrun continuously for more than 100 years.

The Belgrades are in the northwestern part of KennebecCounty, fourteen miles north of Augusta. Bordering towns areOakland and Smithfield on the north; Rome and Mount Ver-non on the west; Readfield and Manchester on the south; andSidney on the east. Belgrade was incorporated on February 3,1796, and land titles originated with charter grants from Eng-lish kings.

The town has three sections — Belgrade Lakes, North Bel-grade, and Belgrade Depot — nestled among a chain of lakesand connecting streams. Because of its natural beauty, bounti-ful fishing, and proximity to the state capital, it is a popular areafor year-round and part-time residents, and tourists as well. Thepopulation is around 3,000, and this doubles in the summer.

One of the lakes in the chain is Great Pond, the site of themail route in this story. Great Pond has about 8,000 acres, withnine islands and 55 miles of shoreline. A stream connects itwith Long Pond in Belgrade Lakes Village with a westerly flow.

There has been a post office in Belgrade Lakes since 1829. Itwas first named Belgrade Lakes Mills Post Office, but in 1901became the Belgrade Lakes Post Office.

The mail route on Great Pond started about 1900, with Cap-tain Bert Curtis and his 35-foot steamboat. The history of theroute mail carriers includes seven men up to Harold Webster.Harold’s son, David, got the contract in 1942. When David en-tered the service during World War II, his brother, John, filledin. David gave up the mail contract when he sold the GreatPond Marina in 1991. The present delivery person is NormShaw.

The focus for the remainder of this narrative will be on the49 years of David Webster’s stewardship of the mail route. Iknew him well, and my two oldest sons, now in their 50s,worked for him during the summers at the marina. Three ofmy progeny had, to varying degrees, involvement in the maildelivery.

When Dave Webster took over there were 26 stops. Theroute grew to 106 stops, a product of growth through thecontinued building of both summer and year-round homes.

Some were palatial, some quite modest,but all were called “camps.” Delivery atthose camps might involve threading apath between owners’ boats, barkingdogs, and sometimes difficult weatherconditions. Stops also included boys’ andgirls’ summer camps located on the is-lands. The arrival of the mail boat was ea-gerly awaited at all stops, but, inparticular, at the boys’ and girls’ camps.This meant news from home and “carepackages.” Outgoing mail was also pickedup on the route.

It was a four-month season, and dur-ing David Webster’s tenure, he missedonly two delivery days. On one, he gotcaught in a hurricane and was forced tohead for home. On the other, a hurricanewarning did the trick. The famous postalcode “the mail must go through” did notanticipate mail delivery on water routesduring hurricanes.

With the financial struggles the U.S.Postal Service has experienced in the lastseveral years, one has to wonder howlong this venerable delivery service cancontinue. If it were to be terminated, an

era will have ended to the disappoint-ment of many. The passengers have en-joyed the scenic ride for years, and inmore recent years, touring the lake whereplaywright Ernest Thompson spent hissummers and wrote “On Golden Pond,”

about an aging couple spending Mainesummers on Great Pond. True, the moviewas filmed on Squam Lake in NewHampshire, but Dave Webster deliveredthe mail on Great Pond.


Maine 31

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Ask any Marine Corps officer if theyknow the name Heywood and youwill get an answer in the affirmative.

Heywood Hall at Quantico is the headquar-ters of the Marine Corps Basic School. TheBasic School is where Corps officers trainfor combat command.

Heywood Hall is named for Charles Hey-wood, the Marine Corps first Major Gen-eral. It was built in 1958 and has served assomething akin to a symbolic birthplace ofMarine officers ever since.

Waterville-born Charles Heywood boastsa military career equaled by only a select few.That career spans forty-five years as a Ma-rine officer. It began in 1858 when Hey-wood was nineteen, and ended in 1903when Heywood was sixty-four. One sus-pects that Heywood would have preferredto keep on as a Marine when he turnedsixty-four, but that was the mandatory age

for retirement.Charles Heywood was the ninth Com-

mandant of the Marine Corps. He served inthat capacity from 1891 until he was placed

on the retired list. During Heywood’s tenureas Commandant, the Marine Corps took onmuch of the form it has today. The Corpsmodernized. In short, it was in part due tochanges brought about by Charles Heywoodthat the Corps was more than prepared asnineteenth century challenges were left be-hind, and the U.S. Navy took on a formequal to fulfilling the functions envisionedfor it by its greatest supporter and propo-nent, President Theodore Roosevelt.

The Marine Corps holds a unique posi-tion in the American psyche. And, althoughCharles Heywood’s name is virtually un-known to the general public, Heywood isone of the centerpieces of that position.Therefore, it is through an examination ofHeywood’s family history and career as aMarine Corps officer — even one as briefas this — that one begins to understand why

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Charles Heywood: First Marine Corps Major GeneralWaterville-born Marine responsible for modernization of the Corps

by Charles Francis


the Marine Corps is forever and irrevocablybound up in those aspects of American cul-ture and tradition that can only be thoughtof as greatness.

Charles Heywood was born in Watervillein 1839. His parents were Charles and An-tonia (Delgado) Heywood. Charles and An-tonia had three children. Rafael died at sixand is buried in Waterville. Antonia lived outa full life including marriage and children.The third child is our subject.

Charles, the father of the future MarineCorps Commandant, must be looked uponas a role model for his son. He served in theNavy, rose to the rank of lieutenant and sawcombat in the Mexican War. In this, he, inturn, had a family role model — his grand-father Timothy Heywood served the patriotcause in the Revolution. The elder CharlesHeywood was a respected Waterville busi-nessman.

Charles Heywood entered the MarineCorps at New York’s Brooklyn Navy Sta-tion. He had an appointment as a 2nd lieu-tenant. A Marine Corps appointment was inways comparable to appointment to West

Point or Annapolis. For much of its early history — until

Charles Heywood became Marine CorpsCommandant — the Corps seldom reacheda figure of 2000 enlisted men and seventysome officers. It was decidedly an elite force.Prior to Heywood, the highest ranking Ma-rine Corps officer was a colonel.

During the Civil War, Heywood was pro-moted to the rank of 1st lieutenant and thencaptain and brevetted major and lieutenantcolonel. He was involved in numerouscoastal actions and was at the Battle of Mo-bile Bay when Farragut made his famous at-tack. When the Confederate ironcladVirginia attacked the outclassed, woodenhull Cumberland in one of the most famousnaval battles of the war, Heywood was thelast man to abandon the stricken Union ves-sel. He fired the final defiant shot from thedoomed ship.

Following the War Between the States,Heywood saw duty on and off both coasts.He served as Admiral Farragut’s MarineFleet Officer in the North AtlanticSquadron, and saw duty at the Navy’s MareIsland facility in California. In 1885 Hey-

wood commanded a combined Marine andNavy force on the Isthmus of Panama. Theissue was keeping the isthmus open for tran-sit.

Heywood was a colonel when he wasnamed Marine Corps Commandant. Hispromotion to major general came in 1899.

During Charles Heywood’s term as Ma-rine Corps Commandant, the Corps rosenearly threefold in strength to number some8000 strong. Heywood established a for-mula for promotion and established train-ing programs and schools. Land-basedliving quarters were improved, and rosefrom twelve to twenty-one. Heywood en-couraged and helped develop joint Navyand Marine exercises. The efficacy of thelatter became evident in the Spanish-Amer-ican War.

Major General Charles Heywood died in1915. He is interred in Arlington NationalCemetery.

By common consent the Marine Corps isone of the all-encompassing componentswe identify with Americanism. As a con-ceptualization, the Corps’ peers include theDeclaration of Independence, the Consti-

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tution and a few others. If one were to

argue this proposition on the grounds that

the Corps are simply too different an entity

from the documents that serve as the basis

for America’s government, I would suggest

that the difference is simply one of degree

rather than kind. The two documents are

texts. They are expressions of a place, the

United States of America. In the most basic

mode of thinking, the texts are that place.

The men of the Marine Corps are of that

place. The officers and men of the Corps

are the place.

I would add to the above proposition the

following thought: the Declaration of Inde-

pendence, the Constitution and the Marine

Corps are external. We are contained by

them more than we contain them. We iden-

tify with all three. They are a part of the

common American culture, the American

experience. That is why the Marine Hymn,

like the Declaration of Independence and

the Constitution, hold the unique associa-

tions they do for us. That is what the life of

a man like Marine Corps officer Charles

Heywood is — a defining.

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In November of 1901 the New York Times“Notes of Musical Doings” called attentionto the fact that “William Carl would give an

organ concert at the ‘Old First’ PresbyterianChurch on Fifth Avenue.” Carl would havethree assistants: a contralto, a violinist and a cel-list. The contralto was Mrs. Antonia Sawyer.

Mrs. Antonia Sawyer’s name would appear onnumerous occasions in the music section of theTimes and other New York newspapers. Sawyerwas a concert artist with a certain degree of rep-utation in the city. Her name would appear alsoin connection with her business, AntoniaSawyer, Inc. Sawyer held controlling interest inthe business. Antonia Sawyer, Inc. representedconcert artists. Sawyer’s most prominent clientwas one of the most famous composer/pianistsof the day, Percy Grainger.

It was because of Percy Grainger that Antonia Sawyer’s namewould make the front page of the New York Times. Grainger’smother, Rose, plunged to her death from a window of Sawyer’s

offices on the top floor of New York City’s Ae-olian Hall. This was on April 30, 1922.

Antonia Sawyer was a Maine girl. She wasn’tborn Sawyer, though. She was born AntoniaSavage. And though born in Waterville, it wouldperhaps be more appropriate to say her rootswere in North Anson. Antonia’s father wasfrom there, as was her grandfather. In fact, itwould probably be correct to say that Antoniaconsidered North Anson her hometown.

The death of Percy Grainger’s mother wouldprobably have made the front pages of NewYork City’s newspapers even if she hadn’t beenwho she was. Though the newspapers handledthe matter delicately, there was little doubt thatthe death was other than a suicide. RoseGrainger jumped to her death. It was AntoniaSawyer who first reported the suicide to au-

thorities. She had invited Rose to her offices. Rose Graingerjumped out a seventeenth story window at a time when Sawyerstepped out for a moment. Rose Grainger plummeted some

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fourteen floors. Sawyer returnedto her office to find Rose gone.She looked out and down from thetop floor of Aeolian Hall to see abody far below on the roof of anadjacent building.

Suicide is always painful forthose close to the deceased. Thatof Rose Grainger is especially so.All close to her knew Rose had rea-son for being depressed. The pa-pers didn’t go into the reasons forthat depression, though. For themost part, they made reference tothe effects of an accident some-time in the distant past. WhenRose and Percy had been living inGermany, Rose slipped on ice, in-juring her back. She never fully recovered,and at one point had to be strapped im-mobile for a period of some nine months.That was the incident the papers madereference to.

The back problem wasn’t the worst ofRose Grainger’s physical complaints,though. She suffered from syphilis. Shecontracted the illness from her alcoholic,womanizing husband. It should be under-

stood that a hundred and more years agosyphilis was regarded as incurable. Biog-raphers of Percy Grainger place the causeof Rose Grainger’s suicide to a flare-up ofthe syphilis.

At the time of Rose Grainger’s suicide,Percy Grainger was in Los Angeles on thestart of a concert tour that would takehim across the Pacific. It was the first timeRose did not accompany her son on tour.

She didn’t go with him because shewas ill. In fact, she had been too illto see him off.

Rose had called Antonia Sawyer,saying she was lonely. Sawyer andRose Grainger were friends. To in-dicate just how close AntoniaSawyer was to Percy and RoseGrainger, Sawyer found theGrainger’s their White Plains home.It was next door to Sawyer’s nieceTonie and her husband FrederickMorse. Tonie would eventually re-place her aunt as Percy Grainger’smanager. Frederick Morse was es-pecially close to the pianist andcomposer. Percy Grainger was ex-ercise-conscious, and the two

jogged and wrestled as a regular routine.These facts help explain why Sawyer, wor-ried as she was about her ill friend, drovefrom New York City to the Grainger’sWhite Plains home and brought Rose toAeolian Hall.

So, exactly who was Antonia SavageSawyer and how was it that she was man-ager and close friend of Percy Grainger,

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The contents of Rose Grainger’s handbag, whichwas left in Antonia Savage’s office when Rose fell

from the office window on April 30, 1922.


the man many critics identify as the firsttruly innovative musician of the twentiethcentury?

Antonia Savage was born to Asher andMary (Chase) Savage in 1854. AntoniaSavage Sawyer is sometimes described asan impresario. Given her representationof Percy Grainger, the term seems fitting.Antonia could be said to have come byher flare for showmanship from her fa-ther. Asher Savage was one of Maine’smore notable developers of race horses.This is understandable, given that NorthAnson of the mid-1800s was famous forhorse breeding. Welsh ponies were intro-duced to America in North Anson byBenjamin Hilton. The Savage connectionto Waterville relates to that communityhaving one of Maine’s premier race tracks.

Antonia Savage attended Coburn Clas-sical Institute and studied vocal music inNew York City and in Europe, in Ger-many, Paris and London. Her specialitywas the oratorio. She married twice,Henry Sawyer and Ashley Miner. She metPercy and Rose Grainger in London.

Percy Grainger was born in Australia.

He is regarded as the most gifted musicianto ever emerge from that country. RoseGrainger contracted syphilis from herhusband early in the marriage, and afterthe birth of Percy. She refused to touchPercy until he was five years old for fearof passing it on to him. The latter fact isan example of Rose’s protectiveness.

Rose took Percy to study in Europewhen he was thirteen, in 1895. From 1901to 1914 the Graingers lived in London,where Percy made friends with and wasinfluenced by Edvard Greig. TheGraingers moved to the United Stateswith the outbreak of the Great War. PercyGrainger had acquired the reputation ofan anti-war pacifist in England. In theUnited States, Antonia Sawyer suggestedhe enlist in the Army, were he would be amember of the U.S. Army Band. It was agood move both for Grainger and thecountry, as he is credited with raisingthousands through the sale of LibertyBonds.

As to how successful Sawyer’s manage-ment of Grainger was, it was phenome-nal. By 1925 Grainger was making $5000a week. That would be close to $60,000 a

week in today’s dollars. His $200-an-hourteaching fee would be about $2500 anhour today. 1925 was the year TonieMorse took over her aunt’s position asPercy Grainger’s manager. Grainger onlyhad the two managers. Both Morse andSawyer worked for the standard ten per-cent fee. Grainger’s long relationship withSawyer and Morse is described as muchmore than a business association. For ex-ample, Tonie Morse and her husbandwere maid of honor and best man atGrainger’s wedding, and even went alongon his honeymoon.

There is a museum in Melbourne, Aus-tralia dedicated to the memory of PercyGrainger. There, one can see pictures anda display commemorating the relationshipof Antonia Savage Sawyer and her nieceTonie Morse and Percy Grainger. There isa picture of Antonia Sawyer. It shows acurly-haired, kindly-looking woman of in-determinate age. It is inscribed to PercyGrainger and dated 1917.

DiscoverMaine38


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During World War IIhundreds of thousandsof Germans were cap-

tured. Their destiny dependedon who captured them. Thosewho were not captured by theAmericans often succumbed tobrutality, starvation, and evendeath. While they may not haveknown it at the time, beingtransported to America had amuch better outcome. In fact,most who came to the UnitedStates were often surprised byhow well they were treated, es-pecially those who were sent toMaine.

From the time that WorldWar II began in 1939 until its end in 1945, Maine was feeling the ef-fects. With a shortage of paper, the demand for pulp wood washigh. Unfortunately, with so many men fighting in the war, labor inthe Maine woods was in demand as well. This soon changed, how-ever, when four prisoner of war camps became assigned to Maine.One of these camps was in Rockwood at what is now called the Se-boomook Wilderness Camps, formerly known as Great NorthernPaper Company’s Seboomook Landing Farm or Northwest Carry.Others were situated in the areas where the POWs were put to workpicking potatoes.

Sometime around April of 1944 the U.S. Army had come to anagreement with Great Northern Paper and shipped in about 250

German POWs. Most of themwere from General Rommel’sAfrikas Korps, otherwiseknown as the German elite.General Rommel himself wasregarded as one of the most hu-mane commanders of the Ger-man forces, and his crew oftentreated prisoners with respectand care, despite what was or-dered. In fact, Rommel waslinked to a plot to kill Hitler. Itis said that Rommel committedsuicide following the orders ofHitler, as his family would beharmed if he did not.

When the POWs arrived inRockwood they had no idea

what was in store for them. The POW Camp at Seboomook was outin the woods, surrounded by a double barbed wire fence. With fourguard towers surrounding the camp, each equipped with guards andmachine guns, they knew there would be no escape. However, withadequate living conditions and tolerable work, they probably neverfelt that it was worth the risk.

The Army and Great Northern Paper had converted a large barninto a sleeping area, and there was a lavatory and laundry facilityfor them to use. Another building had been turned into a kitchenwhere each of the POWs received a hot meal. Hot lunches werebrought in every day from the kitchen to their actual worksite. Ifanyone became ill, they could go to the on-site infirmary and see the

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doctor on duty. The living conditions weregood, but nothing could have preparedthem for the work.

Each day a group of 25 POWs, an inter-preter, and one guard would strike out forthe woods. Their job was to cut four-footlengths of wood and haul it with the horses.Every POW was responsible for the care ofhis own horse, which included making surethat it was not overloaded and overworked.Once the POWs had been trained on theprocedures for cutting wood, each POWwas responsible for cutting a cord of wooda day. While the work was hard, unlike otherPrisoner of War Camps, the POWs at Se-boomook would receive $.80 for each dayof work. After working a seven-hour day,six days a week, they earned $5.60 a week.These prisoners may not have been able tohave girlfriends or contact with their fami-lies, but they were treated well and earnedmoney for their labor.

In the spring of 1946 the SeboomookPrisoner of War Camp closed down. All ofthe POWs were sent back to Germany.What their life was like when they returnedhome is not known. It is known, however,that more than three million German POWswere held in Siberia and a third of thosenever returned, as they were worked to

death in the camps. The ones who did sur-vive were slowly released, some as late as1956.

Many of these German prisoners of warin Maine were young men in their earlytwenties. Most may not have agreed with

what Hitler was doing, but it was their dutyto follow orders. Many of these soldiersspent two or three years or more in Maine,and some returned to Maine to work hereafter the war.

DiscoverMaine 41

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Sonny Parlin is the one person in this

world I have known the longest. We

were born the same year only ten

weeks apart. During weeks between our

birthdays it pleased him to tell me I was a

whole year older. He always sent a card for

my September 19th observance, and I re-

turned it for his. We have sent that card

back and forth for years, always with a big

grin and adding the date of the current year

to the growing list.

Sonny was born in “the beehive,” a large

structure with several apartments, located

on land since donated by Judy Johnson for

the library, town office and historical soci-

ety building in New Vineyard. My mother’s

family lived in New Vineyard five genera-

tions back, but she married a New Yorker

and I was born in Brooklyn. When we lost

our Forest Hills home in Queens during

the depression, I was sent to New Vineyard

to live year-round with my Grandma

Frankie Voter.

So it was that Sonny and I became class-

mates in the upstairs room at the 1854

schoolhouse on Main Street, with its di-

vided boy-girl privy outside toward the Mill

Pond. The school was heated by wood

stoves near the middle of each room. Mr.

Ira Bunker was our teacher. We moved to

the “new” 1940 Roosevelt Elementary

School (Teddy not FDR) on Church Street.

It had side-by-side classrooms, still with

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1946

2003

by Sherwood W. Anderson


four grades in each, but with a basementand inside plumbing. There were eight inour class of 1942: Delia Baud, Buddy Gray,Margie Heath, Bobby Kennedy, CharlieLincoln, Lee Moody, Sonny and me. Mr.Walter V. Weber was our teacher. The oldschool was torn down and the second, dis-used, was crushed by snow. There are noschools in New Vineyard any more.

Sonny and I joined Boy Scout Troop142, meeting weekly in the Grange Hall,where the Fire House is now. ScoutmasterJimmy Mills took the troop to camp inCumberland County for two weeks. Sonny,pale-faced and homesick, decided sleepingin tents was not for him, and left after aweek.

We both went to Vacation Bible Schoolwith 15 or 20 of the town kids for twoweeks every summer. Miss Marian Smithwas one of its teachers, a daughter ofArthur Smith, who, with his brother Harry,ran the Fred O. Smith wood-turning mill intown. A student at Wheaton College in Illi-nois, Marian led Sonny, Frank Kenney andme through the book of Genesis, meetingSunday nights at the CongregationalChurch on Church Street, just we three.

Sonny and I joined that church the sameSunday with his mother, Alverna Wells Par-lin and her sister, Marian Wells Orcutt. Itwas the only church in Franklin County be-tween Fairbanks to the south and Kingfieldto the north, 24 miles apart. It was suffi-cient for the scant New Vineyard populace.

Millard Silas Parlin, Jr., 82, was bornthree and a half years after his brotherRobert “Lefty” Parlin, and five years beforeRoger. Bob married Alice Hagerstrom andlives in Fairbanks. Roger is married to Con-stance Ruth Harnden and lives in Wind-ham.

Sonny is related to a population of NewVineyard people. He never married, but onhis mother’s side alone has 34 first cousins.You are related to Sonny, as to each other,if you are from New Vineyard and yourname is Wells, Spencer, Orcutt, Stewart,Merrill, Davis, Adams, Hargreaves, Hol-brook, Roberts or Bates. On the Parlin sidehe has eight aunts and uncles, five nephewsand three nieces, plus grands.

After graduating from Farmington HighSchool in1946 he completed a course inbeauty culture at the Pelletier School inLewiston, driving to Farmington and tak-

ing the bus from there. He became ateacher but continued setting hair forfriends in their homes. My mother wrote,“it looks better than when I come from abeauty parlor.”

He entered Farmington State TeachersCollege in 1949, graduating in 1953. My sis-ter Gail Anderson and R. Paul Ouellette,her future husband, were in his class.

He taught school a month shy of 40years, retiring in 1993. All his teaching wason the elementary level, mostly fifth grade,first in Strong 1953-1957, then for ten yearsin Livermore Falls (a 60 mile round tripdaily from New Vineyard) and in Farming-ton at the Mallett School, the CascadeBrook School and the A. D. Ingalls School.

He was a substitute in 1993 and 1994, be-fore being appointed Adjunct Professor atthe University of Maine at Farmington asSupervisor of Student Teachers, servingfrom 1995 to 1997. His office was at UMF,but he traveled to schools around FranklinCounty mentoring student teachers. He hasdonated a room to UMF for the new Edu-cation Center in his parents’ memory.

From about 1960 he was New Vineyard’s

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correspondent for the Franklin Journal. TheJournal also published on several pages hishistory of the 1834 village church. He wasa member of the Masons’ Davis Lodge inStrong, and received his 50-year pin in Au-gust, 2007.

Sonny occasionally visited the old NewVineyard Church on Church Street, or thenewer one on Barker Road. The peoplewere kind to him, inviting him to weddings,dinners and special activities. Liz and Icome up from Florida to spend half ofeach year at our Porter Lake cottage, andbecame constituents of Old South Churchin Farmington. Since Sonny had no officialspiritual home we invited him to OldSouth, promising to introduce him to thecongregation. He came and quickly intro-duced us to more of its people than weever knew! He joined Old South, ever in-troducing us to more of his many friends.

Sonny, who sat in the pew with cousinLewis Holbrook and wife Shirley, wasnever at worship without coat and match-ing tie. He was quietly remonstrative of ca-sual church attire, particularly amongwomen. Lewis Holbrook is the son of

Sonny’s Aunt Sylvia Wells Holbrook, now95, the last living of the ten aunts and un-cles on Sonny’s mother’s side. Aunt Sylviachurned butter in a wooden barrel amidstthe cats at her New Vineyard farm, 50pounds at a time. She did not charge neigh-bors for the butter, but was pleased to ac-cept full value for it. The license peopleshut her down, but then-RepresentativeTom Saviello had her over to the capitol inAugusta to be recognized as a “PioneerMaine Woman.”

Sonny’s mother Alverna, widowed in1991, suffered a long illness and finally wasbedridden with both legs amputated. Sonnycared for her tenderly in their home untilher death at age 95 in 2001. His dedicationwas an inspiration to all. When he went toFarmington for groceries, gasoline, doctor,haircut, church, etc., he usually drove on toFairview Cemetery, to place flowers or readpoetry at her grave. He also tended thegraves of my sister, mother and grand-mother at Hackett Notch in New Vineyard.

He owns a tidy, fully equipped camp onPorter Lake, handed down from his father.He drove there daily, weather permitting, ifonly to dust inside or sweep the deck of

leaves. I don’t think he stayed overnight, atleast not in recent years. Nor did he swimin the lake. He had the aluminum dock putinto the lake every spring, but left the boatupside down on the shore. He stopped atour place most summer evenings to give ushis two morning papers, staying for a cupof coffee and brownies and an update onthe day’s doings. He continued visiting usthrough October last year, when we re-turned to Florida for the winter, and sawhim last.

He belonged to the New Vineyard His-torical Society. One meeting we held atMadame Nordica’s museum on HolleyRoad in Farmington. There is a shortcutfrom New Vineyard over a badly potholeddirt road, which we took, Sonny following,driving slowly and gingerly in his pamperedChrysler Concorde lest he bruise the tiresor suck in dust. Thereafter he went on his-torical excursions when he got a ride withsomeone.

Sonny also owned a blue 1983 Fordpickup which he and Bryan Fletcher’s BodyShop kept in mint condition. He rarelydrove it — never in the rain — more toheat the engine than to get him to where

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he was going. He gentled each vehicle, put-ting newspapers over the floor mats, andkeeping each as clean outside as inside. Heastonished us last summer by driving aspanking new Ford sedan into our yard. Hesat low behind the wheel until my wifepointed out the button to raise the seat.Why he needed a fleet of three vehicles wecould not fathom, nor could he explain. Henever pumped his own gas, and eventuallywas restricted to the only station in Farm-ington which offered that service.

Sonny was a member of the New Vine-yard Library Board of Directors, attendingmeetings regularly, volunteering at the deskand promoting its use on every occasion.

He mowed his own grass and blew hisown snow as long as he was able. DavidFletcher voluntarily took over those choreswhen Sonny could no longer do them.Sonny’s next door neighbor Vivian Searleslooked after him regularly, as did his familyand others. One weekend this winter hestopped answering the phone. His brotherBob in Fairbanks asked Shirley Holbrookin New Vineyard to check on him. Shefound him where he had tripped, unableeven to crawl to a phone. He had lain on

the floor a day and night.They took him by ambulance to Franklin

County Memorial Hospital, then after sev-eral days to the Sandy River Home, andboth did him wonders. He was able to re-turn home. Sharon Shaw Parlin, hisnephew Gary’s wife, though teachingschool, drove from Farmington almostdaily for months to care for him. He con-tinued to fall. She arranged for him to go tothe Pierce House next to the FarmingtonPost Office on Main Street. He agreed “totry it out for a while.” The Pierce House di-rector Darlene Mooar, her staff, the hos-pice people, the residents and his manyvisitors were wonderful to him, and he ral-lied in a measure. Even so, he was never tolive in his New Vineyard home again.

Sonny brought cheer into the lives ofmany. My wife called him “Sunny Sonny.”He came to all our parties, family gather-ings and hostings. He shared our memo-ries. He was as a brother to us. We, alongwith all who knew him, miss him greatly.The service, with about 125 present, washeld at Old South Church in Farmington.

I cannot recall the words Rev. G. ArthurWoodcock spoke so many decades ago

when Sonny, his mother, aunt and I werereceived into the New Vineyard Congrega-tional Church. Yet Mr. Woodcock’s wordscould not have been much unlike wordsused today, and no less sure:

“May the God and Father of our LordJesus Christ, by the power of the HolySpirit, bless you and keep you all the daysof your life, and bring you at last to Hiseternal kingdom.”

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Just outside the town ofPhillips in Western Maine,there is a path that extends

west from a trailhead onWheeler Hill Road for approx-imately 1/3 of a mile. As youproceed down this path enjoy-ing everything that nature hasto offer, your eyes are suddenlydrawn to a large grey boulderthat seems to appear out ofnowhere. Completely out ofplace with the surrounding en-vironment, this monstrositysuddenly reminds us of na-ture’s incredible force as we stare at whatDennis Atkinson, president of thePhillips Historical Society, says is “sup-posedly the biggest boulder… in theeastern United States.” This boulder isalso known as Daggett Rock, Maine’slargest glacial erratic.

A glacial erratic is a fragment of rock thatdiffers from the type of rock native to thearea in which it sits. Carried by glacial ice,the journeys are sometimes over distancesof hundreds of miles. The term “erratic” is

commonly used to refer to erratic blocks,which Sir Archibald Geikie describes in his“Textbook of Geology” as: “large massesof rock, often as big as a house, which havebeen transported by glacier-ice, and havebeen lodged in prominent positions in theglacier valleys or have been scattered over

hills and plains.”Erratics can range in size

from small pebbles to massiveboulders, and are always foundin areas that were once con-sumed by glacial ice. The typi-cal characteristic is that theylook completely out of placewith their surroundings. Oneof the largest known examplesin the northern hemisphere isthe appropriately named BigRock in Alberta, Canadaweighing in at 16,500 tons.Other great examples are

Doane Rock, the largest exposed boulderin Cape Cod, Massachusetts, and Madi-son Boulder, a 5,000 ton glacial erraticthe size of a small house in Madison,New Hampshire. Relatively smaller onesare spread across portions of Central

Park, New York, where they sit unnoticedby the general public. But the travels ofthese boulders are not limited to the North.Charles Darwin published extensively on ge-ologic phenomena, including the distribu-tion of erratic boulders. In his accounts

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written during the voyage of the H.M.S. Bea-gle, Darwin observed “a number of large er-ratic boulders of notable size south of theStrait of Magellan, Tierra del Fuego,” andattributed them to ice rafting from Antarc-tica. Recent research suggests that they weremore likely the result of glacial ice flows thatcarried the boulders to their current loca-tions, according to a G.S.A. Today report inDecember, 2009.

According to the Maine Geological Sur-vey, Daggett Rock is estimated as “approxi-mately 8,000 tons, 80 feet long, 30 feet wideand 25 feet high.” Sometimes referred to asDaggett’s Rock, it has been a popular touristattraction since the 1880s, and has recentlybecome a popular point for Bouldering,which is a style of rock climbing where largenatural boulders are climbed without a ropeand limited to very short climbs. New Eng-land Bouldering says, “Daggett offers sometruly beautiful features to climb. Prominentcracks, slabs, and faces are all available, andmost will take you over 20 feet off theground.”

To many visitors, Daggett Rock resemblesa huge granite egg that has broken into threepieces. An intriguing legend exists regarding

how the boulder was split into these pieces.About two hundred years ago a woodsmannamed Daggett found the rock during a vi-olent thunderstorm. Daggett, inebriated andupset by the storm, climbed onto the rock.Cursing and flailing his arms defiantly to-ward the sky, he took the Lord’s name invain and screamed that he could not bestruck down. Immediately, a gigantic light-ning bolt struck Daggett, instantly killedhim and cracked the rock into the threefragments that we know of today. The real-ity is far less dramatic, with the rock mostlikely splitting apart while being depositedby the massive glacier that put it there longago.

No matter what story you believe, thepower of the original glacier that trans-ported the boulder must be appreciated.The force of nature is even more incredibleafter determining the source of the boulder.Geologists identify erratics by studying therocks surrounding the position of the er-ratic and the composition of the erratic it-self. The Daggett boulder is made of granitewith some feldspar crystals more than oneinch long. According to Mary Newall andDavid Gibson of the University of Maine

at Farmington, the granite may be derived“from the Redington pluton 20 km to thenorthwest in the Saddleback Mountain area,and the Lexington Pluton 60 km to thenorth.” A pluton in geology is a body of ig-neous rock, called a plutonic rock, which isformed beneath the surface of the Earth bythe slow cooling and hardening of magma.“The combinations of petrographic andgeochemical similarities are consistent withthe striation data, indicating that Daggett’srock originated 20 km to the WNW in theSaddleback Mountain range,” says Newall.

Glacial erratics have become a significantaid in the study of Earth’s past. Since theyare transported by glaciers, they are one ofmany indicators which mark the path ofprehistoric glacier movements. Their originhelps scientists focus not only on the sourceof the rock but also on the confirmation ofthe former ice flow routes. But for us non-scientists, Daggett Rock reminds us of Na-ture’s slow and delicate hand. Unlike anartist who works with steel and clay, theslow shifting Earth creates these works ofart only by time.

DiscoverMaine 47

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Maine 49

They fought at Champagne. Theyfought the Second Battle of theMarne and the battles of St. Mi-

hiel and Muese-Argonne. They were thesoldiers of the storied Rainbow Divi-sion.

A good many men of the Rainbowenlisted. They were men who didn’t orcouldn’t or wouldn’t wait to be drafted.One of those who didn’t or couldn’twait was just out of Bowdoin College.His name was Donald Philbrick. He wasfrom Skowhegan.

The formal designation of the Rain-bow Division is the 42nd Infantry Divi-sion. It is a National Guard and U.S.Army Division. It is a mechanized divi-sion. The men of the 42nd wear a red,yellow, gold and blue rainbow on theirshoulder. Most recently the RainbowDivision fought in Iraq, in the GlobalWar on Terrorism (GWOT). Beforethat, the Rainbow Division distin-guished itself in World War II. The his-tory of the Rainbow Division, however,begins with the Great War, World WarI. That’s when it and its unique namecame to be, in 1917. And DonaldPhilbrick was a part of the beginning.

Tradition has it that the 42nd came byits name because of DouglasMacArthur. It is a story that involvesPresident Woodrow Wilson’s Secretaryof War, Newton Baker. That story saysBaker authorized the organization of adivision composed of the very best Na-tional Guard regiments and companiesof twenty-six states. When MacArthur,who was a colonel at the time and the

intended commander of the division,heard this, he is said to have observed“Fine. That will stretch over the wholecountry like a rainbow.”

Donald Philbrick was barely twenty-one when he enlisted in the NationalGuard. (His birthday was March 16.)The fact that Philbrick chose to enlistwasn’t all that unique in Maine. A lot ofyoung Maine men chose to enlist. How-ever, it does deserve comment.

Most of us are familiar with the draftas it relates to World War II or VietNam. It was a fact of life for young men

during those conflicts. There was a lot-tery, and those born on certain dayswere called to service based on theirbirthday. The World War I draft wassomewhat different. It excluded young,draft-eligible men from enlisting.

When the U.S. entered the Great War,the federal government decided to se-cure the greater number of its Armyand Navy men by selective draft. Menof draft age had to secure special per-mission to enlist. The policy reduced thenumber of enlistments to a small

Philbrick Of TheRainbow Division

Skowhegan native volunteered for military dutyby Charles Francis


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number compared with what it wouldhave been if the government hadadopted a policy of calling for volun-teers. Maine was almost unique amongstates in that its draft quota was reducedon several occasions by the number ofyoung men who volunteered rather thanwait to be drafted. Donald Philbrick wasone of those who did not wait to bedrafted. He was one of 2,450 draft-eli-gible men who secured special permis-sion to enlist. In total, 35,214 Mainemen and women served in the U.S.Army and Navy during the Great War.

Donald Philbrick was a 1913 graduateof Skowhegan High School. He gradu-ated from Bowdoin in April of 1917.April of 1917 was the month PresidentWilson asked Congress to declare waron Germany. The President appearedbefore Congress on April 2 and chargedthat the German nation had forced himto declare war against it. It was an elec-tric message that galvanized young

Americans like Donald Philbrick withexcitement and a sense of pride in na-tion. Philbrick’s transition from studentto soldier was virtually instantaneous.He left Bowdoin for Officer TrainingSchool, and then continued on to the42nd Infantry Division at Camp Mills inNew York.

There is an excellent book on theRainbow Division, the 1994 Rainbow Di-vision in the Great War by James Cooke. Itdetails the problems faced by the Divi-sion’s officers as they attempted to molda polyglot of National Guard regimentsand companies from across the countryinto a single cohesive unit. ThoughCooke does not speak directly to the Di-vision symbol — the rainbow — onesuspects that without it things wouldhave been worse. For example, some ofthe most intense social and cultural ani-mosity within the Division involved ele-ments from Alabama and New York.

February of 1918 saw the RainbowDivision at the front for the first time.

It acted as support to a French division.In late March and early April it becamethe first American division to be giventotal responsibility for a sector. This wasat Baccarat, and when DouglasMacArthur first attained press notice asa General who commanded his forces atthe actual front, it is said he exposedhimself to the enemy’s fire.

Donald Philbrick was a 2nd lieutenantwith the 167th Infantry Regiment. Assuch, he saw action in the trenches aswell as on the famous pushes throughthe Argonne forest. The last offensivethe Rainbow Division took part in wasthat of Chateau-Thierry. It was here thatthe poet Joyce Kilmer — most famousfor “Trees” — was killed. The RainbowDivision ended its duty in Europe asone of the occupying forces of defeatedGermany.

Donald Philbrick did not return toAmerica with the Rainbow Division inMarch of 1919. He stayed on in Pariswith the Corps of Interpreters. This was


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the Army way of saying Philbrick was in Intelligence.His discharge from the Army came July 31, 1919.

As an enlisted man Donald Philbrick serves an ex-ample of an American tradition — that of the citizensoldier. He came forward when there was need andreturned to his home and his life here when the needended. In fact, after leaving the military, DonaldPhilbrick went on to a rewarding career, one thateventually led to his being included in Who’s Who inAmerica.

Following his return to the United States, DonaldPhilbrick enrolled at Harvard University to study law.He graduated in 1922. In 1925 he became a partner inVerrill, Hale, Booth and Ives in Portland. From 1935to 1940 he was a member of the Maine House ofRepresentatives. In 1939-40 he served as Speaker ofthe House. He died in 1984. The final resting placeof the young man who answered his nation’s call toarms directly upon graduating the cloistered halls ofBowdoin College is Skowhegan.

Ward & Philbrick building, Skowhegan. Item #111853 from theEastern Illustrating & Publishing Co. Collection and

www.PenobscotMarineMuseum.orgOther businesses from this area are featured in the color section.


Norm the “Happy Pumper”

207-587-4387Mercer, ME

Offering affordable, quality service

Bliss Septic Services

24 Hour Emergency

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fully inSurEd

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BlanchetBlanchetBuilders, l.l.C.Builders, l.l.C.

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Skowhegan, Maine

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skowheganskowhegan

equipment & toolequipment & toolfarmington rentalfarmington rental

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plus homeowner rentals

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183 Madison Ave. • Skowheganwww.smartandedwardsfh.com

207-474-3357

Early view of Water Street in Skowhegan.

Item #102459 from the Eastern Illustrating & Publishing Co. Collection and


Computerimprovements

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Computers

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— Mark LeBlanc —

207-474-3151 • 474-2323101 Water St. • Skowhegan

computerimprove.org


Maine 53

kkaattiiee QQ..ConvenienceCold beergasSnackslots of items

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164 main street, route 148madison

247 main street at canaan one stop

canaan

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Gerald e. Vermetted.d.s., f.a.g.d.

robert e. clukey, Jr.d.m.d., f.a.g.d.

Center forDental Medicine

CdM

tel. 474-9503fax 474-5271

59 Pleasant streetskowhegan,

Maine 04976

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Street view in Solon. Item #114354 from the Eastern Illustrating & Publishing Co. Collection and



Short CircuiteLeCTriCaL ConTraCTor

Commercial & ResidentialCompetitive Pricing • Free Estimates • Fully Insured

New Construction • Remodels • Code updates • Telephonenow Accepting All Major Credit Cards

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r.F. automotive repairross Frazier, oWner/oPerator

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Ferry and the piers of the new bridge in Solon. Item #114357 from the Eastern Illustrating & Publishing Co. Collection and


Cars - Trucks - Homes - BusinessessTaTe CerTiFied

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David Buxton had “the” curefor rheumatic pain. The curewas Buxton’s Rheumatic Cure.

The cure was marketed by Buxton’sRheumatic Cure Co. of Abbot. DavidBuxton pushed his cure big-time. He ad-vertised in newspapers and other publi-cations all across Maine. His was afamiliar name and presence in townsand hamlets from the Piscataquis Riverto the Kennebec. His name was familiarbecause he peddled and delivered Bux-ton’s Rheumatic Cure by fancy horse-wagon throughout the region. Thewagon flaunted the product name. Sodid the two horses pulling the wagon.The steeds’ horse blankets touted Bux-ton’s seeming ubiquitous product.

Buxton’s Rheumatic Cure was what

was once familiarly known as a “OneDollar Miracle.” One Dollar Miracleswere patent medicines. Of course, notall sold for a dollar. Prices could vary.Bottle size had something to do withprice. A very small bottle could go fortwo-bits, a quarter. The one-dollar bot-tles were usually a half pint. And therewere larger bottles.

One Dollar Miracles like Buxton’swere pain killers. The pain killing aspectwas the “miracle.” “Cure” meant killingpain. Generally speaking, One DollarMiracles contained two painkillers. Onewas invariably alcohol. The other couldbe morphine — what was then com-monly called laudanum — or maybe co-caine. Arsenic was a common cure fortoothache. The two-pain-killer reason-

ing reflects the theory that if morphineor cocaine reduced the body’s naturaldesire to respond to discomfort, and al-cohol induced a state of euphoria, thenthe user concerned about his maladywould, in effect, be “cured” by the com-bination of the two ingredients... or atleast be dead from the disease before hecould register a complaint.

DiscoverMaine 55


north Country varietyFeaturing:

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David Buxton’s Miracle Medicine WagonBusinessman from Abbot pedaled “miracle cures”

by Charles Francis

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One Dollar Miracles were potent.Buxton’s Rheumatic Cure was potent.Here’s an example in the form of a tes-timonial as to just how potent Buxton’swas. The testimonial appeared in Mainenewspapers in the late 1890s. The testi-fier was one W. B. Moore of Bingham.Moore wrote as follows:

I was recently attacked by a severe pain inmy foot. It developed into a most severe case ofacute rheumatism. I was obliged to be helpedfrom one room to another and also to be dressedand undressed. A friend of mine advised me toget a bottle of Buxton’s Rheumatic Cure whichI did, and before I had taken the whole bottlethe pain left me and the lameness also. I writethis thinking it may reach the eye of some suf-ferer like myself.

David Buxton, the force behind Bux-ton’s Rheumatic Cure, was an Abbotbusinessman and politician. Buxton’sRheumatic Cure Co. operated out ofDavid Buxton’s Abbot store. The firstfloor sign on the front of the store read

“D. H. Buxton, Clothing, Medicine.”The “H.” stood for Horace. There wasalso a sign that read “Post Office.” Bux-ton was Abbot’s long-standing post-master. He was a town clerk and towntreasurer. He also served in the MaineLegislature. A sign on top of the storeread “The Buxton Rheumatic Cure Co.”

Patent medicines were, for the mostpart, trademarked medicines. No patentwas involved. The word was given to avariety of medical compounds soldunder various names and labels. In thelast few decades the term has becomeparticularly associated with the sale ofdrug compounds during the late nine-teenth and early twentieth centuries.Many flouted colorful names andboasted even more attention grabbingclaims.

Intriguingly, central Maine was some-thing of a patent medicine hotbed. TheGannett publication Comfort wasfounded in part to promote Oxien, anAugusta-produced nostrum. Because of

magazine advertising, Oxien became anationwide best-selling medicine. DavidBuxton would seem to have had dreamsof similar success. However, Buxtonwas something more of a traditionalist,at least in his use of a medicine wagon.

David Buxton was a patent medicineman in an era when a great many coun-try folk turned to home remedies or elsepurchased patent medicine at travelingmedicine shows, or from patent medi-cine salesmen to do their own doctor-ing. Even if there was a doctor in theirimmediate area, they were more inclinedto use their own tried and true nostrumsor one of those that itinerant patentmedicine salesmen peddled rather thangive “good” money to someone whostyled himself a doctor.

David Buxton established his BuxtonMedicine Company in 1894. This was atime period when there were literallythousands of patent medicine salesmenoperating in the United States. Buxtonhad something of a unique approach to

DiscoverMaine56


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marketing his product, however. Heboosted sales of Buxton’s RheumaticCure by direct distribution to drug andgeneral stores using his wagon. Therewasn’t anything at all out of the ordinaryin his use of the wagon, though. In fact,it was a tried and true marketing ap-proach.

There was a clear hierarchy amongpatent medicine salesmen. At the verytop was the traveling medicine show. Inthe 1870s there were several hundred inthe United States. The most successfulexample would be the Kickapoo IndianMedicine Show. The next level were the“high pitch” salesmen who traveledaround giving their spiel from the backof their medicine wagons. This was, ofcourse, the model David Buxton took ashis own. At the bottom of the barrelwas the “low pitch” salesman who car-ried his little bottles of medicine aroundin a suitcase or carpetbag and set up ona street corner. When a “high pitch”salesman showed up with his medicine

wagon, “low pitch” salesmen faded intothe background. David Buxton was a“high pitch” salesman. This is clearfrom the advertising that his wagon andhorses flaunted.

There are suggestions that DavidBuxton had visions of a national mar-ket. Just how far he got in reaching thisgoal is a matter of conjecture. That hedid have customers beyond the bound-aries of Maine is a possibility, though. In1915 he was placing advertisements witha testimonial from C. H. Thomas, a sat-isfied customer of Albany, New York.That advertisement read:

It gives me pleasure to send you this unso-licited testimonial regarding Buxton’s Rheu-matic Cure. For years I have been a greatsufferer from Articular Rheumatism, to suchan extent that for almost one year I was unableto walk. I was treated by many doctors andtook the so called “Cures” at Carlsbad andMt. Clemmons but without results. Finally indespair I was persuaded to try Buxton’s Rheu-matic Cure. I got relief at once and within two

months could walk as good as ever. I am gladto give you this information in the hope it mayreach the eyes of some unfortunate sufferingfrom that awful affliction called Rheumatism.

I have included the entire above testi-monial here for a reason. If one com-pares it with the earlier example fromthe late 1890s, one sees striking similar-ities, especially in the closing words. Isthe testimony of C. H. Thomas faked?There would seem that possibility.

The patent medicine market dried upin the United States in the early twenti-eth century with the advent of purefood and drug laws. Was the above ad-vertisement one of the last efforts ofDavid Buxton to market his “miracle?”Perhaps. He went on to other affairs, in-cluding managing the Abbot Hotel,shortly after this. He died in 1941. Asfor his wagon, it can be seen at the Shel-burne Museum in Shelburne,Vermont.

DiscoverMaine 57

JAckMAn HARdwARE & SpORtInG GOOdS

wE GOt StuFF

207-668-5151598 MAIn St. • JAckMAn, ME

Everything you can think of!

OpEn 7 dAyS

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• Extensive Inventory• Over 500 Rods & Reels• Live Bait• Snowshoes• Ice Augers• Hunting, Fishing• Guns, Ammo, Boots

Jean Paul CarrierlOggINg CONTRACTOR

207-668-4457Po Box 489 • JACKMAN, ME 04945

Email: [email protected]

Jackman Hotel LoungeThe

“Spin the wheel & catch a deal...”A relaxing way to spend your day

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427 Main St., Jackman, ME207-668-9252

Jackman Auto Parts

Tim Daigle, Store Manager

207-668-5351414 Main St., Jackman, ME

Quality Automotive ProductsGreat Customer Service

TOWiNgJay’s

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on CAll 24 houRS/7 DAYS A WeeKServing Dover to Golden Road

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This story is aboutClarence Joel Dunlap.He was born in Farm-

ington, Maine on April 25,1888. Fresh from BowdoinCollege in Brunswick in theearly 1900s, he went to King-field as a teacher.

Kingfield was, and still is, asmall town — present popula-tion is 850 — located about 75miles north of the state capital,Augusta. It was a lumber townin those days, but is now bestknown as a springboard to thevery popular ski resort at Sug-arloaf Mountain.

At that time, an elderly doc-tor lived in Kingfield who was ready to retire. His problemwas if he retired, there would be no replacement to cover alarge geographic region running to the Canadian border. Thatdoctor had a comfortable house with a large attached barnand stable, typical of that era in New England. The house hada wrap-around screened porch with comfortable outdoorseating. There was a cleared field behind the barn running to

woods. On the other side of thewoods was the CarrabassetRiver.

The house itself had a base-ment and two stories of livingspace. The first floor housed alarge working kitchen with awood stove and doors leading tothe porch, barn, dining room,and main house entry. Thekitchen also had a wall openingto the dining room to allow thepassing of food and dishes fromone to the other.

The dining room had a bed-room entrance on one side, andlarger access to what would nor-mally be the living room. The

doctor used that as his office, where he saw patients and theirfamilies. The second floor had three bedrooms, a bathroomwith tub, and an operating room. As an aside, diagonallyacross the road was the Stanley house. The Stanley twin broth-ers were best known for inventing the Stanley Steamer. A mu-seum is dedicated to the Stanleys in Kingfield. They actuallydid much more.

DiscoverMaine58

northland hotelrooms & lounge

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Country Doctor

Rural medicine of days gone byby Clarence W. Bennett


But I digress. Back to my story.The old doctor suggested that Dunlap, the

young teacher, who had soon become recog-nized for many qualities, go to medical schooland come back as his replacement. He offeredthe house, equipment, and his practice. Sincethis presentation is entitled “Country Doctor,”you can guess what happened next. The youngman’s wife accompanied him to Boston Univer-sity, where they both studied — he to be a physi-cian and she, a registered nurse. In themid-1920s the two of them returned to King-field, moved into the house and practiced med-icine as a team.

Dr. Dunlap was a rare individual. He was tall— about six-foot-six, not heavy, not light, nothandsome, highly intelligent, and old-school allthe way. He did not go into medicine to makemoney. In fact, he resented those who did. Hewould charge $1.00 for an office visit and $2.00for a house call. But it really didn’t matter. Heoften accepted vegetables, etc., in lieu of pay-ment. In the upper part of the barn, he had the

DiscoverMaine 59


• Brick Oven Pizza• Burgers• Hot/Cold Sandwiches• House-Smoked BBQ• Beer and Wine Served

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1954 photo of Doctor Dunlap, Dena Dunlap andClarence Bennett


makings of a pharmacy where he devel-oped and dispensed some medications.In fact, he pioneered some medicationsfor major pharmaceutical companies.

Three or four times a year, DoctorDunlap would drive to Boston to updatehimself and supplement his studying.Apparently, he was well-known andhighly regarded as an innovator and di-agnostician, because Dr. Leahy of thefamed Leahy Clinic would greet himpersonally and take him on a tour.Throughout those tours, Dr. Leahywould try to talk Dunlap into taking apractice in the greater Boston area. Buthis loyalties remained true to his prac-tice in Kingfield.

Dr. Dunlap usually wore a suit anddress hat, drove a Dodge sedan, read thedaily Boston Herald, and was an avid fanof the Boston Celtics and Red Soxteams. He cared about all living things.

That manifested itself in many ways,but I will cite one example. He was once

featured in the Farmington, Maine,newspaper with an article calling himthe “Bird Man.” Seems he put an oldChristmas tree beside the barn near therear of the porch to feed the birds. Ofcourse, squirrels created the usual prob-lems. He built a chicken wire cagearound it with an opening so that onlythe birds could go in and out. The arti-cle included a picture of the doctor inhis suit and dress hat with many birdson his hat brim, shoulders, sleeves, andpockets. There was also the abandonedwild cat he spent months luring into thebarn until finally it became a one-mancat, and many other similar stories weretold.

An example of the extraordinary ex-periences a country doctor could havein those days would be the time when awoodsman came to the house duringwinter. He said his partner was “cut-upin the woods.” Would the doctor come?Of course. They hitched a horse andbuggy and went into the woods as far as

they could. They tied the horse to a treeand snow-shoed to the injured woods-man. The doctor patched the woods-man up, snow-shoed back to thehorse-rig, and headed home. The storyhas the doctor falling asleep near thehouse, but the horse continued into thebarn. The doctor’s wife then took careof them both.

How do I know all this, you ask? A lit-tle over 82 years ago Doctor Dunlap, as-sisted by his wife/nurse, delivered meon the second floor of that house inKingfield. That very able wife/nursewas my aunt, Dena Lovina (Bearce)Dunlap. Dena was born in Lakeville,Maine on August 4, 1895. She was oneof 13 children in a family living on afarm on the upper part of AlmanacMountain — 1,052 feet high, in theGrand Lakes region of eastern Maine.

I could go on at length about the ex-ploits of the son who became head ofthe test division for the U. S. Air Forceas a civilian employee.

DiscoverMaine60


The

We specialize in home-cooked specials!

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Or I could go into the doctor’s dowserdays when he located farmers’ well sites.Or his many years on the school com-mittee while his wife tutored high schoolstudents preparing for speech competi-tions. And the many honors and recog-nitions bestowed upon the two of themby a very grateful citizenry.

I slept in the front bedroom of thatKingfield house many times. The Docwas a remarkable man who lived to be94, and he enjoyed a long and produc-tive life. The last time I visited him in anursing home in Farmington, he cameout of the bathroom slightly disori-ented. I asked if he needed help. I donot remember his exact words, but theyinvolved helping others. I’m sure youcould write just as good an ending forwhat he might have said as I can.

DiscoverMaine 61

nOrTH CaMpsA private world on Rangeley Lake

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Rangeley EquipmentRepair

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Proprietor: Al Fountaine

(207) 864-5618P.O. Box 152, Rangeley, Maine 04970

Early view of Main Street in Kingfield. Item #101165 from the Eastern Illustrating & Publishing Co.

Collection and www.PenobscotMarineMuseum.orgOther businesses from this area are featured in the color section.


For more than 150 years the beau-tiful Rangeley Lakes region ofwestern Maine has been visited

by sportsmen and tourists alike. Settlersarrived in 1815. And as early as the1840s wealthy men from Boston, NewYork, and Providence came to theMooselookmeguntic and RangeleyLakes region armed with fishing rods.Since the 1870s, sportsmen’s guides havebeen compiled and sold to these samefolks.

In 1796 James Rangeley, Sr., ofPhiladelphia, and several business part-ners from Massachusetts purchased vasttracts of land in the Rangeley area, andsettlers followed in the early 19th cen-tury. Although many believed that thearea was first settled by Squire James

Rangeley, Jr. in 1825, J. Sherman Hoarmaintained that his ancestor LutherHoar actually came from Concord, Mas-sachusetts to the area in the summer of1815, along with a wife and eight chil-dren (see Pioneer Days of Rangeley, Maine,J. Sherman Hoar, Rangeley, 1949).Luther Hoar had scouted the area for apossible home site the previous fall, andhad made a deep pit in the ground tostore potatoes. The family arrived thatsummer, with a baby girl named Eunicein tow, and Luther built a campfire and“prepared for the first of many nightsin the open. A bitter disappointmentawaited these hungry, tired pioneers.When Deacon Hoar went to the pit, hefound it empty. The potatoes were gone!During the winter, the Indians had dis-

covered them and had fared sumptu-ously on the first fruits of Luther Hoar’sindustry,” as their descendant wrote(Hoar, p. 8).

In July 1816 fourteen-year old JosephHoar walked to the nearest town,Madrid, and fetched a mid-wife for hismother, expecting a baby once again. Hecame back with an older woman knownin Rangeley folklore as “Old Mis’ Dill.”The old midwife “brought forth the firstwhite child of the future township —Lucinda Hoar.” And it was “Old Mis’Dill” who was the first to be buried inthe new settlement, moving there withher husband the following year.

Luther Hoar “was a powerful man,”recalled his grandson Freeman Tibbetts.“Grandfather Hoar used to put a bushel

DiscoverMaine62

Mingo SpringsGolf Course

Rangeley, Maine864-5021

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WilBerheatinG & PluMBinG

Madrid, Maine 04966

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New CustomersWelcome

The Great Rangeley Lakes Of Maine In Days Of YoreA brief history of founding families

by Matthew Jude Barker


of corn on his back and walk to Strong.It was twelve miles to Madrid; fromMadrid to Phillips was six miles, andfrom Phillips to Strong was six milesmore, and he walked there and back inthree days and carried a bushel of cornbesides.” Luther did not forget his rela-tives back in Massachusetts, and used toride a horse almost every year to visitthem. Tibbetts remembered the lasttime he journeyed there: “He comehome and rode into the barn. His wifeshe come out to see him. ‘How do youfeel?’ says she. He was a-hanging’ up hissaddle when he answered her. ‘Fine,’says he, and with that he dropped at herfeet — stone dead” (Hoar, p. 10).

Eventually other pioneers came to set-tle at Rangeley, including families namedRowe, Thomas, Kimball, and Quimby.In 1825 Squire James Rangeley, Jr., amember of an old Yorkshire, Englandfamily, arrived on the scene from Eng-land and built a home that was nothingshort of a mansion for its place and

time. It was made of plastering, clap-boards and solid brick, contained a giantkitchen with a brick oven, and had fourrooms, two on each floor, each with anold fashioned brick fireplace. It stood intown for all to marvel at for at least 50years before what was left of it (afteryears of decay and dismantling) burnedto the ground in the great Rangeley fireof August 1876.

Squire Rangeley, who one old-timerdescribed as “He was an Englishman —he was funny,” employed many of themen in town to build his home and thenupkeep his property. He also hired manyof the girls in the area as domesticmaids. Rangeley paid the men $12 amonth, which was not too shabby forthe time, and started out his “hired girls”at 50 cents a week before paying them$1.50 after a year’s time.

The squire had great plans for devel-oping the area, but after a sawmill andgristmill were built, and before a ten-mile road had been finished, he realized

the extreme difficulties of transporta-tion to the outside world. After thedeath of his 19-year-old daughter Sarahon Christmas Day 1827, Rangeley finallydecided to pack up his family and moveon. By 1841 they were residing in Port-land. The squire eventually sold thetownship of Rangeley and they movedto Virginia, where his family also ownedland. In Virginia he owned about 150slaves and became a colonel in the Con-federate Army. The Rangeleys never re-turned to merry ol’ England and theirdescendants still resided in HenryCounty, Virginia as late as the 1950s.

Another family that had a deep impacton the region was the Barretts. Thomasand Charles Barrett arrived here in theearly 1880s and established a boatbuild-ing concern. They built and repairedrowboats, and Tom Barrett built the first“Rangeley boat,” a narrow and low openboat that was specifically designed tomaneuver the famous Rangeley Lakes.

DiscoverMaine 63


Locally Produced MeatsCut to Order Ribeyes

Pizza • Calzones • WrapsHot & Cold SandwichesFull Deli • Daily Specials~ Gift Certificates ~

Eat in or take out for breakfast, lunch & dinner

On & Off Road Diesel • KeroseneAll Grades of GasolineOpen 7 Days a Week

Mon.-Fri. 5am-8pm • Sat. 6am-8pm • Sun. 7am-8pm

26 South Main St. • StrongTel. 684-3615

207-364-3880

Located on aTv TrailsRoger & Judy Boucher

445 swift river rd., byron, me 04275

www.cooscanyoncabins.com

Registered Maine guide Packages Available

gold-PanningHunting, fishing, hiking, skiing,wildlife & foliage viewing!

Coos CanyonCampground and Cabinsyear round reCreaTion

Fishing Bait & gear~ gasoline ~

groceries • Meats • Cold Beerwine & soda • pizza

Breakfast served Dailylobster subs • hot & Cold sandwiches

Accessible to Atv trails~ Open 7 Days from 6am to 9pm ~

545-2713Route 120 west Roxbury

Ellis Pond Variety & Cabins

“Serving Contractors & Home-owners For 21 Years”

207-562-7176207-562-7185

Route 2, PO Box 585Dixfield, Maine 04224


“Rangeley boat” and “Barrett” becamesynonymous with generations ofRangeley fishermen. The firm was stillgoing strong as late as the 1940s. Theold Barrett shop still stands in the townon the shore of Rangeley Lake.

According to Stephen A. Cole, the au-thor of The Rangeley and its Region, the Fa-mous Boat and Lakes of Western Maine, theBarretts arrived on the scene at the mostopportune time. “During the 1880s thesportsmen and tourist trade there bur-geoned, grand hotels were built, newsporting camps were established, modesof transportation were increased andupdated, and publications wrote fre-quently of the Rangeley Lakes as a hol-iday destination.”

DiscoverMaine64


ColDest BeveRAges iN towNgroceries • sandwiches • pizzaself-service gas stationConvenient to its trail

inside Dining Area • tagging station4:00 - 9:00 Mon - Thurs

4:00 - 10:00 Fri & Sat • 5:00 - 9:00 Sun

ELLIS VARIETy

562-8284126 weld Road •Dixfield

E & L Logging & ExcavationServing you for over 20 years

562-9024Lance White, owner198 Luc Morin Road • Dixfield, Maine 04224

AuthoRizeD sAles AND seRviCe FoR

Mike Hase, owner562-4930

business location: 244 Tower Road2 miles off Worthley Pond in East Peru

Hours: Mon. Tue. Wed. & Fri. 7am-5pmSat. 6:30am-noon • Closed Thurs. & Sun.

Closed noon-1pm daily for lunch

service on most makes of saws, lawn & garden equipment

naples Packing Co., Inc.naples Packing Co., Inc.Family Owned & Operated Since 1946

Beef • pork • provisionsFrozen Foods • produce

364-3725364-3725

river road • MexicoOpen Mon.-Sat.

The Lake House, Rangeley. Item #109969 from the Eastern Illustrating & Publishing Co.


Welcome toSimply Sweet!The Gluten-FreeMarket & Bakery

Call for Special OrdersOpen Wednesday - Saturday, 10-6

207-369-9196297 River Road/U.S. Rt. 2 • Mexico, ME

US Route 2www.simply-sweet.me


Maine 65

whirlpoolkitchenaid

maytag • amanaSales & Service

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Family owned &operated for over

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13 Main Street, Mexico

Experience Small Town MaineGateway to the

Western Mountains

Town of MexicoWeb: www.mexicomaine.net

134 Main Street, Mexico, Maine 04257(207) 364-7971

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On a cold Sunday evening in theearly winter of 1924, a groupof approximately 25 men

gathered at the Municipal Police Court-room in the town of Rumford, Maine.For the next several hours, this groupdiscussed, argued, and finalized a way toofficially show their enthusiasm towardwinter sports and expand the activitiesin the area. It was a productive end to athree-month period where they had notonly formed themselves as theChisholm Ski Club, but created the firstannual “Winter Carnival” that wouldeventually help transform Rumford intoone of the top ski centers in the coun-try.

As stated in the records of theChisholm Ski Club from the 1920s, “It

is this loyal body of members thatmakes the Chisholm Ski Club a leaderamong the clubs of the Eastern UnitedStates Association… (But) it requiresthe entire support of the whole com-munity (with major funding from theOxford Paper Company) to put it overas it should be put over. We must main-tain the reputation that we already havebeen doing things and doing themright.” By 1929, just five years after theclub’s founding, the town of Rumfordhad served as the site of several Mainecross country and Nordic combinedchampionships, as well as the locationof the Eastern Amateur United StatesSki Association. The hard work andyears of devotion had finally paid off.

Despite the formation of the club and

it accolades in 1929, the skiing traditionin Rumford actually began more than 20years earlier. According to Paul Jones inhis article “Spruce Street Tow” for the“New England Lost Ski Areas Project(NELSAP),” the first ski area in thetown of Rumford was actually “locatedalong Spruce Street from the Aker’sLumber Company (next to what wasPuiia’s Hardware) to Breau’s Dairy (nextto what is now Community Energy).”Small ski jumps were built on both sidesof Spruce Street and a ski slope was cre-ated in a former “cow field in back ofthe dairy bordered by Holyoke Avenueand Spruce Street/Swain Road.” But asinnovative as these locations were, thearea needed more.

The Proud Skiing Tradition Of RumfordSkiing began in the early 1900s

by James Nalley


Bordeau’sBackhoe &

Portable Welding

Call Mike: 207-739-9189185 Highland terrace • mexico, mE 04257

Small BackhoeBush Hogrototilling

weldingStainless • tig


FROST MOTOR SUPPLY, INC.Ken Briggette & Son, Owners

Snowmobile & ATV Parts & Accessories

Automotive Parts • Accessories

Oils • Lubricants

FREE Wiper Blade Installation With Purchase of Wiper Blades

364-4563202 Prospect Ave.

Rumford, ME

(Bottom of Falls Hill)

Hours: Mon - Sat 5am - 9:30pmSun. 7am - 7pm

Propane Refill Station& Full Service Gas

Every Day 7am - 7pm

876 route 2, rumford, Me 04276

207-364-8984

owners: Judy & Kenny gill

River Valley Grill

• daily Specials

• Home Cooked Foods

• Fresh Made desserts

Mon. - Fri. 6am-7pm, Sat. 8am-1pmClosed Sunday.

your hosts: Bob & Kathy Knowles39 Exchange St., Rumford • 369-0810

Breakfast

Served

all day

Every day!

jake’s

garage“Take it to Jake!”

Jake & tina pellerin - owners

auto repairs

exhaust specialist

pipe bending

207-369-0791

529 Prospect Ave. • Rumford, Maine

After the Chisholm Ski Club was

formed in 1924, things changed

dramatically. With support from local

businesses, a natural-hill ski jump and

toboggan run was constructed along

with a skating rink complete with

lights and sound equipment. The rink

covered an area of a quarter acre be-

hind the Chevrolet Garage (next to

the Rumford Water District building).

In 1926 the club had become noticed

after construction of a tower was

completed that increased the ski jump

to a 60-meter jump that was known as

the highest jumping hill east of the

Mississippi River. This recognition

would only last six years, when Lake

Placid built an even higher hill for its

Olympic Games in 1932. But Rumford

fared well from the exposure and the

area continued to be used not only for

recreation, but for local competitions

that ranged from skating and toboggan-

ing to skiing on its newly expanded

slope with a 200-foot vertical and a T-

bar ski lift that covered the entire slope’s

length of 1,200 feet. As stated by Jones,

“The distance from the top of the steep

slope to the base of the ski area was

enough to create challenging downhill

and slalom courses as well as gentle

slopes for recreational skiing. The ski

area was (also) conveniently located for

the children in town to go to during the

week on foot or skis and for family out-

ings on the weekends… the slope was

also lighted to provide evening skiing.”

But like many other areas in the

country, the onset of World War II

had greatly affected recreational activ-

ities and Rumford’s ski slope was no

exception. With fuel and power being

rationed for the war effort, the lift and

lights of the slope were forced to

cease operation and the site never fully

recovered. After the war the skating

rink was discontinued, and according

to Jones, “The jumping tower had de-

teriorated and collapsed in a February

snow storm.” Only the ski slope was

partially reactivated and continued until

1950, when “Scotty’s Mountain” had

taken over as the primary ski location on

the other side of town. Fortunately, the

cross-country ski trails remained and the

venue was the site of both the 1950 FIS

Serving the River Valley for more than 75 years

“Quality Healthcare

Close to Home”

Elsemore Dixfield Family Medicine562-4226

River Valley Internal Medicine364-7831

Rumford Surgical Associates369-1106

Swift River Family Medicine369-0146

420 Franklin StreetRumford, Maine

369-1000


1952 Olympic team


World Championship cross-country

races and the 1952 Olympic cross coun-

try tryouts, where two local skiers

(Chummy Broomhall and Bob Pidacks)

made the Olympic team and trained on

the trails prior to sailing to Oslo in 1952.

Today, no evidence remains of any ski

or skating activities along Spruce Street

— just the memories.

From a period from 1950 to 1960,

Scotty’s Mountain thrived as the region’s

popular ski area. According to Malcolm

White in the article “Scotties,” also for

NELSAP, “This was a 1,300-foot, dog-

legged rope tow about a mile out of

town along the Swift River. There were

also three ski jumps located there: the

so-called “Grammar School,” the “High

School,” and the “Suicide,” which was a

55-meter jump. The latter jump was the

site of the annual Winter Carnival

where, in addition to the competition,

they had a night jumping show through

a hoop of fire on to a landing lit by rail-

road flares.” It closed in 1960 after the

creation of the Black Mountain Ski area,

which still exists today. Dave Hathaway

in the same article states, “Scotty’s ski

hill is located adjacent to the Mountain

Valley High School on Hancock Street.

It can be accessed through the woods

from the northwest corner of the

school… it’s about a 200-foot walk from

the high school’s parking lot to the edge

of the ski trail.”

Today, Black Mountain of Maine is a

popular, full-service ski resort that of-

fers both day and night skiing as well as

snowboarding down its 1,150-foot ver-

tical drop and 20 trails served by two

chairlifts. The cross-country trails were

developed by Chummy Broomhall, the

two-time Olympian, who also designed

the Olympic cross-country trails at Lake

Placid and Squaw Valley. Black Moun-

tain of Maine continues to host an im-

pressive list of competitions that include

the NCAA Cross-Country Skiing

Championships, several prominent na-

tional championships, and, most re-

cently, the 2011 U.S. Cross-Country

Championship. Proudly based at the

same mountain is the Chisholm Ski

Club, which continues to preserve this

rich ski tradition that dates back to the

early 1900s when skiers once met on a

cow field behind the town’s dairy.

DiscoverMaine 67

chase chimney

& stove services

Wood • Pellet • Stoves

Fireplaces • Fireplace Inserts

Sales, Installation and Service

485 Prospect Ave.Rt. 2 Top of Falls HillRumford, Me 04276

Phone (207) 369-9900FAX (207) 369-0545

robert & dianne chase

Pleasant River Motel“Stay with us while you experience

the wonders of western Maine”Easy Access to Everything

Only Minutes to Sunday River & Mt. Abram

Coin Laundry • Cable TV • Phone • Private Tub Showers

207-836-3575 • 1-800-847-7786www.pleasantrivermotel.net

764 W. Bethel Road, Route 2 West • West Bethel, Maine 04286

Trading posTBear River gaS - food - beer

Local Farm Eggs

Healthy Treats

Coffee, Beer & Wine

Sandwiches & Ice Cream

Groceries, Snacks & Candy

Maps

Fishing & Hunting Licenses/Gear

Flies & Fly Fishing Equipment

Rec. Vehicle Registrations

Game Inspection Station

Open Daily ... Always Worth the Trip!monday - Saturday 6am - 8pm ... SundayS 8am - 6pm

Newry CorNer - route 2 & 26 - 824-bear

29 Industrial Park RoadRumford, Maine

Jim Nicols

Bill Nicols


Other businesses from this area

are featured in the color section.


rOOSTEr’SrOadHOuSEOpen for Lunch and Dinner

Daily at 11:30!

Lobsters * Seafood * Steaks * Pasta * PizzaPub Fare * Full Bar * TV’s

Cold Draft Beers * 1/2 lb. Burgers

www.roostersroadhouse.com

Fun, CaSuaL, aFFOrdaBLE...OnLY aT rOOSTEr’S!!

159 Mayville Road (Route 2) • 824-0309

DaviSConcrete Foundations

Floors - Slabs Free Estimates - Fully Insured

Call todd davis

207-357-38128 Farm Hill Rd. • Bethel, ME 04217


CoNCREtE“Spacious Suites”

Located on route 2Just Minutes Away From Sunday river

~ Indoor Pool ~(207) 824-2808

888-224-8413

www.riverviewresort.com357 Mayville Road, Bethel, Maine

Across from Rite Aid

Route 2, Bethel824-3637

Take-Out or Dine In

Homemade Lasagna • Salads, Subs, and More!

A Full Service Family RestaurantServing Wine, Beer & Spirits

& Dinners 6 Page Menu

Now Offering Gluten-Free Dough & Beer

FREEMAN’SCONSTRuCTION

“No job too small, when it comes to dirt work, we dig it all”

▸ Seasoned Firewood & Logging

▸ Plowing▸ Stonework

(207) 824-0836 • (207) [email protected]

Early view of Main Street in Bethel. Item #104228 from the Eastern Illustrating & Publishing Co. Collection and www.PenobscotMarineMuseum.org

NAPA Know How

kelley’s auto parts, inc.

10 Mechanic St. • Bethel, ME 04217207-824-2102

123 Glen Ave. • Berlin, NH 03570603-752-4405

dIStRIButoRS oF:automotive Parts & accessories

Industrial SuppliesMarine Products

CoMPLete MaChIne ShoP SeRvICe


For being a small state, at least in population, Maine hasa long history of diverse ethnic enclaves comparable tomuch larger states. The Wabanaki Native Americans

resided here for some seven thousand years before Europeansset foot. Since the 1600s, many different waves of peopleshave made the Pine Tree State home, including English, Irish,Scottish, Welsh, French, German, African, Portuguese, Span-ish, Swedish, Finnish, Norwegian, Jewish, Italian, Polish, Chi-nese, Armenian, Greek, Syrian, Russian, and many other small

groups. Today we continue to see various ethnic groups suchas the Somalis and Sudanese, as well as many different strainsof Latinos and Slavic peoples immigrate to the state.

One of the most intriguing ethnic communities outside ofthe major cities was the Irish settlement in Greenwood, Ox-ford County, outside Bethel, where Irish emigrants, especiallyfrom the Irish Gaelic speaking areas of the County Galway,began to settle during the time of An Gorta Mor (the GreatHunger in Irish), the great Irish potato famine of 1845-51.

In 1850, 170 Irish families and individuals were residing inGreenwood, according to the 1850 Federal Census. One ofthese families was the Thomas and Bridget Lydon Flahertyfamily from Galway. According to the Oxford Democrat of De-cember 30, 1884, old Tom Flaherty “came from Ireland witha small family nearly forty years ago, went to work on the G.T. R. (Grand Trunk Railroad) at Mechanic Falls and followedit as far as Gorham (NH), when he left it and bought a farmin this neighborhood, on to which he moved his family. Thefarm was considered a poor one hardly worth the name, asseveral Yankees had been on it and got starved out. When Mr.F. commenced on it he had no team, and instead of hiringone to do his ploughing, he dug the ground with a spade,burned the break roots, and used the ashes for manure. Hesoon began to prosper as he deserved to until his children

DiscoverMaine 69

SaLadS

BReakFaSt

Dine In or Take Out

...and more183 Park Street, South Paris, ME

hand-Cut FRIeS

BuRgeRS

207-739-2575 SandwICheSMon.-Fri. 5am-8pm • Sat. 6am-8pm• Sun. 7am-7pm


The GaeltachtOf Greenwood

by matthew Jude barker

immigrants from County galwaysettled here


boLsTer’s miLLs generaL sTore

“Downtown Bolster’s Mills”

Come in and sit down for hot coffee, rednecks, and good company.

~ Home of the Thelma & louise ~groceries • Pizza • Deli • Hot Coffee

breakfast Served All Day • Daily Specials •beverages • Scratch Tickets

Many thanks from Dave & Jo-AnnMon-fri 5:30am-7pm; sat & sun 7am-7pm

4 Big Hill Road, otisfield, Maine • 743-2422

numbered ten and he erected a good setof buildings.”

Patrick Harrington was another earlyIrish settler who remained in Green-wood and made a go of it. “Accordingto family records, he was working forthe railroad in 1860 and lived in Bethelwith his wife Mary and their infant sonMichael. He was paid a $1.00 a day. In1863 the railroad suddenly cut the men’swages to $.90 a day. He left the railroad,took his savings in gold, and bought theJosiah Bartlett farm up the hill fromThomas Flaherty…Within the next fewyears other Irish families came, proba-bly under much the same circum-stances.”

Among the other Irish who settled inGreenwood, in what would becomeknown as “Little Ireland,” and “the IrishNeighborhood,” included the familiesof John and Abby Concannon Gill,Patrick and Kate Lydon Connelly,Patrick and Julia Lydon, Richard and

Mary Lane Joyce, Michael and MargaretQuirk, James B. and Sarah Curran,Michael and Mary Pendergrast, Michaeland Mary Flaherty Deegan, Bartley andDelia Lydon, John and Anne Lydon,Thomas Smith, Thomas Kennaugh,Richard Hadakin, and William Deardon.Many of these families were from theAran Islands off the coast of Galwayand almost all of them spoke IrishGaelic and continued to speak it wellinto the 20th Century; thus it was a vir-tual Gaeltacht, or Irish-speaking location.In Ireland today, the Gaeltacht is thecollective name of Irish-speaking dis-tricts in Counties Galway, Kerry, Cork,and Donegal.

These Irish created a succinct Gaeliccommunity in a valley below MountAbram and Long Mountain, and alongKendall Brook. A few Yankee familiesresided among them. According to anarticle in the Oxford County Advertiser(March 16, 1906), “Some of the inci-dents of early life in the colony were

strenuous enough to satisfy the mostdaring spirits. Bears were wont to robthe cattle pens, deer grazed in the or-chards and storms of frightful intensityburied for days together this little bandof settlers on the rugged mountainsides. Thomas Flaherty’s wife was onone occasion attacked by a giganticblack snake while drawing water at aspring. The serpent inflicted serious in-jury on her and was killed only after ahard tussle. At another time Flahertyhimself had a set-to with a big grizzly,which all but cost him his life.” An 1871nor’easter buried the little group alivefor almost a week. One can only won-der what these Galwegians thought ofbears, snakes, and blizzards! They weredefinitely not in Galway anymore!

Dr. Raymond Tibbetts often took careof the Irish families, and his daughterrecalled many years later that her father“relished their wit,” and “best of all ap-preciated the loyalty and tenacity of theIrish. They stuck with their friends and

Weddings • Showers • AnniversariesGroup Meetings

Catering • Bartending • Music • Flowers168 Greenwood Mt. Rd. • Hebron, Maine

(207) 966-2233 • 877-978-4466www.greenwoodmtninn.com

Paris Appraisal ServicesJonathan Beal

State Licensed & Certified Real Estate AppraisersResidential • land • Condominium

Serving all of Oxford, Androscoggin & Northern Cumberland counties.

Phone 207-743-9319Email [email protected]

8 High Street, PO Box 122, South Paris, ME 04281www.parisappraisalsvcs.com

Tourmaline Hill Farm

Maine Made Fine organic Products

www.tourmalinehillfarm.com

Goat ProductsUnpasteurized Milk

Sausage, Meat

CheeseChevre, Feta, Ricotta,

Mozzarella, KefirSoap

“Scent of the Season” Lavender, LemonPine, Patchouli

Excavation ContractorSand - Gravel

Firewood - Hay

207-674-2771cell 592-5559 • cell 462-6000

West Paris, Maine

thepolandcorporation.com

The Poland Corporation


hadley’sSand • Loam • Gravel

Backhoe • Dozer Work • TruckingSeptic Systems • Road Building

“Where Quality Never Goes Out Of Style”auto Sales • new truck & Car Shop

Rt. 26 • W. Paris, ME674-2466 • 592-6755

We Deliver!

keIth hadLeyInC


Maine 71

BRC Carpentry Inc.Established 1982

Benjamin Clough, Owner

• Custom Building

• Complete Home Building Services

• Lots available

• Construction Loans available

966-3686

Major’s Heating Services

Colby Major68 Ledge Hill Rd.

Hebron, ME 04238(207) 966-3428 Home

(207) 212-4002 Cell

Service • New InstallationsSystem upgrades

24 Hr. Emergency Service • Gas & oilMaster Licensed & Insured

SERvINg WESTERN MAINE

All Natural Home-Grown Beef

Farm Fresh ProduceJam ~ Honey

Our Own Maple Syrup

Home-Baked Pies

All Natural Home-Grown Beef, Pork & Lamb

Organic Cheese & Milk

Produce in Season

207-743-6723Route 26, Oxford, ME

“Everything in its Season”Open year-round

Smedberg’s Crystal Spring Farm

Gift certificatesChristmas trees & wreaths

Oxford Hills& Weston

FuNERAL SERvICES

www.oxfordhillsfuneralservices.com

Chris WestonDirector

207-743-0270 • Fax: 207-743-02791037 Main Street • Route 26

Po Box 205 • oxford, ME 04270

were proud of their heritage.” MargaretJoy Tibbetts remembered the day her fa-ther “operated on old Bartley Lydon fora strangulated hernia. He was alreadyninety and the operation was hazardousbut my father had no choice. The pa-tient lay on the kitchen table, my fatheroperated, mother gave the anestheticand young Bernard Harrington held thelantern. The following day old Bartleysat up in bed and called for his pants andhis pipe. He lived several more years. After theoperation when mother went out to catch herbreath and walked down the road from thefarmhouse, the partridges flew up on eitherside as thick as robins.”

The Irish settlers were successfulfarmers in this wilderness area; as onereporter noted, they “are a thrifty set,and can outdo the Yankees every timeraising potatoes.” By 1906, Michael Dee-gan “had seven fine children and 200acres of the best land under fine culti-vation as any in the state.” Patrick Har-rington’s son Michael, a town

selectman, was “introducing with con-siderable success, the Irish “intensive”method of farming into the Yankeetownships all about Greenwood.” Thefirst settlers “made a specialty of pota-toes, raising them intensively by puttinga decayed fish or a rotten twig into eachhill for fertilizer, in Irish fashion.” As the1906 reporter declared, “Thus havethese ‘hustling’ Irishmen made thewilderness blossom into some of thebest farms in Maine.”

A few days before St. Patrick’s Day1906, a press correspondent for the Ox-ford County Advertiser related the historyof the community thusly:

“Sixty years ago or more, so the oldmen of the community tell, when theGrand Trunk road was being built fromPortland to Gorham (NH), some longforgotten railway strike threw a score ofIrish laborers out of employment. With-out money to return home, with wivesand families to provide for, and with im-mediate necessity staring them in the

face, these sturdy men of toil did theonly sensible thing—plunged squarelyinto the forest, took up densely woodedtracts, exchanged the sledge hammer forthe axe and attacked the primeval forestto hew out farms and homesteads fortheir families.”

The Irish in Greenwood remainedRoman Catholic and a missionary priestusually visited them each summer tominister the sacraments. An 1884 re-porter was somewhat amazed that“while they claim the right to their ownreligion, they do not try to impose itupon others.”

By 1910, the older generation hadmostly died off, and the younger gener-ations were all attending local schools,some even hiking the eight miles to at-tend Gould Academy in Bethel. Theyounger members of these families mayhave learned some of the Irish languagefrom their elders, but the language even-tually died out in the area. Many of the



Ice Cream & Yogurt!

Fresh Vegetables in Season, HoneyWheel Cheese, Maple Syrup

Pine Lawn Furniture

Free Petting Zoo!Farm Animals

Sheep, Goats, Rabbits, Calves, Pigs,

Chickens, Ducks, Turkeys & Geese

Open May - October

207-539-2616Pigeon Hill • Route 26

Oxford, Maine 04270

Fall Vegetablesincluding pumpkin & squash Da

ddy O’s

• Breakfast served all day• Desserts are home-made

Hours: Mon.-Sat. 6am-2pm • Sun. 6am-Noon

901 Main St. • Oxford, ME 04270

207-539-8100

polly’s

variety“No more crackers, Polly wants pizza!”Friendly Service

Sandwiches • SubsHomemade Salads

Homemade SpecialsGreat Pizza Slices

We offer a wide variety of groceries, snacks, homemade cakes & cookies

Please stop by! Call ahead for faster service!

115 King St. • Oxford, Maine539-8254

StetSOn’SautO ServIce

Work on all Makes & Models

State Inspections

John Stetson, Owner

743-2886258 Fore Street, Oxford

Over 30 yearsexperience

Continually DefiningBeautiful Believable

Color and Cutting Edge

Haircuts.

by appointment only.

207-739-2338

426 Main Street, Norway, [email protected]

739-2338

descendants of the original settlers re-

moved to Bethel to live and work, and

many moved to Portland for work. The

Greenwood Irish had many familial ties

to the Irish in Portland and many of

them lived with their relatives in the city.

And of course, many Irish stayed in

Greenwood, where some of their de-

scendants continue to reside and con-

tinue to upkeep the little cemetery in the

woods where their ancestors were

buried.

The “Gaeltacht of Greenwood” is

just one of countless examples of a

community that sprung up in the Pine

Tree State, a community of immigrants

that came to America for a better way

of life, for themselves and their prog-

eny. We should do well to remember

these people whenever we can


Early view of Main Street in Norway.

Item #101984 from the Eastern Illustrating & Publishing Co.

Collection and www.PenobscotMarineMuseum.orgOther businesses from this area

are featured in the color section.


Maine 73

unDercoVer Flea MarketCOllECTIblES & ANTIquES

Come to oxford’s only original indoorflea market! open 7 days a week,

8am-5pm year round for your shopping!

Always Buying

Featuring 114 Vendors

960 main streetoxford, maine 539-4149

Collectibles, Coins, glassware, SportsCards, Furniture, Beanie Babies,

Advertising items, Cassettes, Jewelry,CD’s, videos, Antiques & Lots More!

visit “the Book Nook”for oNe stop shopping!

All pApeRBACks $1/ea.30% oFF all hardcover Books

20% oFF all Books on tape50% oFF Cookbooks

select hard Covers $2 at “the Book Nook” only

Over 55,000 Pre-read Books &

Cookbooks Pre-Read Books

arriving dailyInventory Reduction now in progress

20% - 50% OFFWe honor: M/C, DeBit, AtM, viSA, AMex and DiSCover Cards

A drug-free, non-surgicalhealth care alternative offering motion x-ray

studies and computerizedspinal analysis and

treatment.

39 Paris Streetnorway, Maine 04268Phone (207) 743-2866Fax: (207) 743-5942

Massage therapy

Dr. Barry e. knopp

www.chiropractic.com • [email protected]

kNoppChiRopRACtiC

Johnny Millionaire“I Buy and Sell”

We Specialize in theUnique...

Something for Everyone!

Antiques • Collectibles • Art • MemorabiliaFurniture • DVD’s & Vinyl

Stop by and take a look

329 Main St., Norway, [email protected](207) 515-0866 • tues. - Sat. 11-5

i Buy & Sell Gold & Silver!

Early view of Main Street in Cornish. Item #100437 from the Eastern Illustrating & Publishing Co. Collection and


712 main streetrt. 26, oxford

207-539-9930www.buythefire.com

“We Are The Hearth Professionals”sales • serviCe • installations

monday-friday 8am-5pmsaturday 8am-4pm


Having a town named after oneself is one of the high-est accolades that can be paid any individual. MarkDunnell of Buxton is one of the few individuals to

whom this honor has been paid. The town of Dunnell, Min-nesota is named for him.

Dunnell was a long-serving Minnesota Congressman as wellas a Minnesota State Superintendent of Instruction. Well be-fore he became a resident of Minnesota, however, he amassedan enviable record in his native state as well as to his countryduring the Civil War. He was one of the first Maine men to beselected for Maine’s Hall of Fame.

Mark Hill Dunnell (the name is sometimes mistakenly spelledDonnell) was born in Buxton on July 2, 1823. His parents wereSamuel and Ashsa (Hill) Dunnell. On his mother’s side he was

DiscoverMaine74

• Full service dining and bar on Norway Lake

• Gorgeous view for all seasons• Come by boat or sledPrime Ribeye Steak • Haddock • ScallopsPasta • Salads • Burgers • Pizza • Subs

• Happy hour 2-5 Weekdays •Open Mon. - Sat. 11-Close

Sunday Noon - CloseOur Own Famous BBQ Pork

Family Owned & Operated since 1982Norway Lake Road, Norway

743-8434

Good Food! Good Drink!

Good Friends!

Since 1968

• Weekly Pickup• Container Service

• Containers 2-10 yards• Rolloffs 12-30 yards

743-5417Waterford Road, Norway

oxford Hillstaxi

• Delivery• Airport Service

• Long & Short Fares• 7 Day Service

• 6 Seat Mini Van

743-7963Owner: Terri Dunham

Norway’s

Mark Hill DunnellEducator, soldier, leader extraordinaire

by Charles Francis

Ebay Trading AssistantPacking • Shipping

Mailbox Rental • Fax ServiceCopies • Office Supplies • Much More!

231 Main Street • NorwayTel: 744-0099/Fax: 744-0100

Go to the ebay store at Goin’ Postal

Are you hiding what we’re looking for ?

Share your stories with us!Discover Maine Magazine

(207) 874-7720 • 1-800-753-8684


Maine 75

Taste of Eden

238 Main Street, Norway, ME 04268

(207) 739-6090

VEGAN CAFÉMonday - Thursday 11am - 7pm

Sunday 11am - 2:30pm

Check out our interesting menu onlinewww.tasteofedencafe.com

WilsonWilsonEExxccaavvaattiinngg,, IInncc..

(207) 583-4632

Complete Residential & Commercial Site Work

Road buildinglot Clearing

certified Septic System InstallerFor all your excavating needs.Family Business Since 1968

444 bisbee Town Road Waterford, ME 04088

Come See The Buffalo!

Beech Hill FarmBison Ranch

• Prime bison meat for sale• Walking tours to see and learn

about the bison• Come see “Chief ” and

“Little Warrior”• Gift Shop• Beautiful Views• Gift Certificates

207-583-2515

Ted & Doretta ColburnRoute 35, 630 Valley RoadNo. Waterford, ME 04267Open Year Round

Call for Hours

Have won National awards

Craig’sbodyShop

~ Over 25 Years Experience ~Complete unibody & Frame

Repair & Refinishing• Downdraft Spray Booth • Color Matching

• Sand Blasting • Restorations• Media Blasting For Environmentally

Safe Paint Removal

583-2942190 Deertrees Road, Harrison

Manager: Mike BrooksOpen Mon.-Fri. 8-5

descended from Nathaniel Hill, a Revo-lutionary War hero. Two of his Dunnellancestors, Benjamin and Joseph, wereprominent figures in the early growth ofBuxton.

Mark Dunnell was first and foremosta teacher. Late in his life he helpedfound Pillsbury Military Academy inOwatonna, Minnesota. Hill made hishome in Minnesota in Owatonna. Even-tually Dunnell’s house became the prop-erty of Pillsbury Academy, used forclassrooms as well as a residence. Todayit is preserved by the Steele County His-torical Society as a tribute to him.

After attending Buxton area commonschools, Dunnell enrolled in WatervilleCollege, (now Colby) graduating in1849. His first employment upon grad-uating was in Norway as a teaching prin-cipal at Norway Academy. From therehe went on to become principal of He-bron Academy. He was elected to theMaine House of Representatives in1854 and the Maine State Senate in

1855. Dunnell served as Maine State Su-perintendent of Education on two sep-arate occasions — the first time in 1855,the second from 1857 to 1860.

In 1855 Dunnell was just Maine’s sec-ond State Superintendent of Education.As such, he was the public figure topoint out the real and great problemsfacing public education in Maine. Dun-nell made a point of saying that the bulkof money raised for public education,just over $333,000, was raised by localtaxes, and that the state only contributedsome $54,000. He went on to say thatpublic education in Maine was domi-nated by “small districts, ignorant com-mitteemen, inadequate buildings... andpoorly qualified teachers.” It wasMaine’s first wake-up call as to the stateof public education. It also created thefirst movement to reform the state’s ed-ucational system. Dunnell went on tosee to it that every county held a three-to five-day teachers’ convention, whereprominent experts in the field of edu-

cation held lectures and seminars. Al-most 1700 teachers attended the con-ventions which Dunnell persuaded thelegislature to appropriate $2000 for.During Dunnell’s second term as StateSuperintendent, the State Teacher’sConvention was instituted. Today Dun-nell is credited with having Maine takethe first tentative steps towards a systemof responsible public education.

In 1855 Dunnell was admitted to theMaine Bar. He began his law practice inPortland. At that time he became activein the formation of the Maine Republi-can Party.

At the start of the Civil War Dunnellvolunteered his services for combat, andwas appointed colonel of the 5th Maine,which was formed in Portland. The 5thMaine went on to establish one of themost outstanding records of any Maineregiment, capturing more enemy battleflags than any other. Dunnell was only


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Watson, neal & YorkFuneral Home

JOSePH L. WATSOn, OWneR/DiReCTOR

Watson, neal & YorkFuneRAL HOMe

207-625-3221 • Fax: 207-625-8289

71 MAPLe ST. PO BOx 536

CORniSH, Me04020

Funerals ~ Cremations ~ Green Burials

Rick - Kevin lewisNew Construction & Renovation

Small Houses Cottages Decks Renovations Garages

year Round Caretaking

(207) 415-4476 or (207) 671-1107Building Maine Since 1968

Proprietor: David Fifield Office: Mrs. Dave

Auto & Marine Sales

Maine Inspections

Open 9:30-5:00pm, Mon. - Fri.65 Harrison Rd. (Route 117), Bridgton, Maine

329-2602

We Serve Bridgton • Harrison • DenmarkNaples • Casco • Sebago • The Waterfords

39 DEPoT ST, BRIDGToN • TOLL FREE 1-800-834-8407

Mon-Fri 9-5, Sat 9-4

647-8441

Warren’sFlorist

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to serve a short time with the 5th, how-ever.

In September of 1861 Dunnell wasnamed United States Consul at Vera Cruz,Mexico. As Consul, Dunnell was instru-mental in intercepting a major shipmentof arms from Europe to the Confederacy.

Following the war Dunnell moved toMinnesota. In 1867 he was elected to theMinnesota State Legislature. From 1867 to1870 he served as Minnesota State Super-intendent of Public Instruction. At thistime he initiated state teacher’s conven-tions along the same lines as he had doneearlier in Maine.

In 1867 Dunnell was elected to the firstof eight terms in the United States Houseof Representatives. His service in Con-gress included one unsuccessful bid forSpeaker of the House. As Chairman ofthe House Committee on the Census, heis credited with introducing some of thecensus practices which still exist to this day.

Mark Dunnell never lost his ties to

Maine or to Mexico from his term ofservice there. In 1870 he was made anhonorary member of the Geographicaland Statistical Society of Mexico. In 1899Colby College commemorated the serviceof its famous graduate with an honorarydegree.

In 1969 the Steele County Historical So-ciety of Owatonna rescued Mark Dun-nell’s former Minnesota home fromdestruction, completely restoring it to itsoriginal Victorian charm. It is a fitting me-morial to the man who did so much forMaine, Minnesota and the nation.

Knapp & Sanborn Store and Post office, Bridgton. Item #102490 from the Eastern Illustrating & Publishing Co. Collection

and www.PenobscotMarineMuseum.org


www.wardcedarloghomes.com

Cliff Roderick, Inc.general Contractor

• Custom Log Homes• Conventional Homes• Small or Large Jobs

207-647-8058Bridgton, Maine


Maine 77

32 Main St., Bridgton, ME207-221-2645Open 7 Days!

207.647.4003 ~ www.morningdewnatural.com19

Gift CertificatesAvailable

Wide selection ofgluten-Free

Apples • Cider • Pick-Your-Own

Farm Store featuring fudge, pies,

Maine-made crafts & gifts

aPPLE aCrES FarM“3 generations of Johnsons serving western Maine”

207-625-4777Durgintown Road • Hiram

creative covering solutionsNew England’s Source For Flooring

Sales & Installation • Fully Insured207-632-0760 • Bridgton, Maine

Adam Forsythe / Email: [email protected] our portfolio at www.ccs-tile.com

RESIDENTIAL COMMERCIAL

hardwood • tile/stone • paverslaminate • resilient flooring •carpet

As business fell off, the steamtrain got too expensive to usefor the mail run. So the heads

got together with their machinists andcame up with a Chevy ½-ton and a littleboxcar. Of course, it had to be nar-rowed up to two feet and the body like-wise. And the freight car was also builton smaller measurements. Well, they stillhad the mail contract to Bridgton, SouthBridgton, Hillside and Sandy Creek. Ofcourse, in the summer they couldn’thandle the mail in that rig, but tenmonths of the year they could. Mybrother had the mail contract to Hill-side, and Dad used to go for him oncein a while. Dad got a 1914 Model-Twhich he really never learned to drive,and later a Model-A which he couldn’treally drive, either. You would have to

know Dad to get anything out of thestory. He never could figure out why thecar kept moving when he took his footoff the clutch.

The engineer sometimes stopped onthe road crossing if he only had onemailbag. On this day, Dad was taking theHillside run for my brother. When Dadgot there, the engineer was stopped onthe road crossing, and was out of theChevy/boxcar rig. Luckily Dad neverdrove fast, so he was putt-putting along,and when he let out the clutch, he ranstraight into the little boxcar. He took itclean off the rails before the old Model-A stalled. I don’t know who was scaredthe most, Dad or the engineer.

Dad laid down a pair of crossoverswhich he happened to have, and backedthe old Chevy up and ran the boxcar

back on the rails — no damage otherthan paint and a few splinters. Now aword about the crossovers. Those wereingenious. They were heavy enough towork on the engine, and flat at each end,with a groove to take the flanged wheeland run up to rail level. It was a quite asight to watch what they were pullingdrop onto the rails.

That wasn’t Dad’s last experiencedown there. He used to turn around atthe intersection of the Denmark Road.It was big enough so he could turn with-out backing up, so on this day he turnedand got to where he usually waited, letout the clutch, and went sailing upthrough the gray birches which thenstood between him and the road, effec-tively hiding the car. It finally stalled, and

The Time Dad Knocked The Train Off The RailsQuite a stunt with a Model-A

by Franklin Irish



Dad got out and walked out to the road.Luckily one of his grandsons camealong and stopped. Dad was a little mor-tified, but he pointed up towards thewoods and said, “The car’s up theresomewhere.”

His grandson was so tickled, he prettynear split. He followed the skinnedbirches for nearly 100 feet, and here’sthe old Ford sitting on a big clump withits front wheels in the air. He said, “Itgot itself up there, so I’ll try and back itout.” It came off that clump pretty hard,but after that he just pushed the treesthe other way. There were already somany dents in the fenders; he couldn’tfind any new ones.

Anyway, Dad got home with the mail,and, as I remember, he didn’t drivemuch after that.

DiscoverMaine78


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PO Box 186 • Parsonsfield, ME 04047

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attention golfeRS!Don’t put your clubs away this winter!Play one of our Full Swing golf Simulators22 championship courses that will test your skill and nerves.Plus a driving range if you just want to work on your swing.

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saco valley sports center95 Pine Street • Fryeburg, ME 04037

935-3777sacovalleysportscenter.com

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Batch Pressed cider and Pies647-2425

route 107 • South Bridgtonfivefieldsski.com

Check Out Our Picking ScheduleCross Country skiing in season

APPLEs

Store and Post office in South Limington. Item #102522 from the Eastern Illustrating & Publishing Co.


Printing Company, Inc.CardinalnoW oFFERInG:

► Full Color Printing► Traditional offset Printing► Computer to Plate Capabilities► Full Service Printing & Direct Mail

33 E. Main St, Denmark, ME 04022207-452-2931 • 1-800-320-2931

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FoR ALL youR PRInTInG nEEDS!


Maine 79

ABC Builders . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42ABC Rubbish . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .74ABT Plumbing & Heating . . . . . . . . .31Advance 1 Cleaning Service . . . . . . . .21All Purpose Glass . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3Andre’s Barrels & Buckets . . . . . . . . . .6Andrew Ames Logging . . . . . . . . . . . .76Apple Acres Farm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .77Archie’s Rubbish Removal . . . . . . . . .67Arkay Pizza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33Awesome Trips . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41Bald Mountain Camps . . . . . . . . . . . .44Bear River Trading Post . . . . . . . . . . .67Beech Hill Farm Bison Ranch . . . . . .75Belgrade Performance & Repairs . . . .19Berry Logging . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5Bingham Auto Parts . . . . . . . . . . . . . .55Bingham Village Video . . . . . . . . . . . .55Blanchet Builders LLC . . . . . . . . . . . .52Bliss Septic Services . . . . . . . . . . . . . .52Bloom & Bloom . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39Blue Loon Café . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .59B.N.F. Contractor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39Bob’s Cash Fuel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26Bolster’s Mills General Store . . . . . . .70Boomers Restaurant . . . . . . . . . . . . . .74Bordeau’s Backhoe & Welding . . . . . .65Bosse Chiropractic & Wellness . . . . . .21Brady’s ATV & Power Equipment . . . . . .16BRC Carpentry Inc. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .71Bruce A. Manzer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .37B’s Home Service . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19Butcher’s Choice Restaurant . . . . . . . .22Buy The Fire . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .73C & J Trailer Repair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23C. Haggan Jr. Excavation LLC . . . . . .56Café Nomad . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .46Carrabassett Real Estate . . . . . . . . . . .38Cardinal Printing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .78Care and Comfort . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36Central Maine Community College . . . . . . .7Central Tire Co. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24Chase Chimney & Stove Services . . . .67Chris Ryan Haircolor Studio . . . . . . . .72Coleman’s Flying & Guide Service . . . . .8Computer Improvements . . . . . . . . . .52Coos Canyon Campground . . . . . . . .63Craig’s Body Shop . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .75Creative Covering Solutions (CCS) . .77Crestholm Farm Stand . . . . . . . . . . . .72D.H. Pinnette & Sons Inc. . . . . . . . . . .3D.R. Salisbury Foundations . . . . . . . .39DA Wilson & Co. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .45DAC Distributors Inc. . . . . . . . . . . . .24Daddy O’s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .72Dave’s Garage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .76David Stevens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33Davis Concrete . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .68Debra Achramowicz, CPA . . . . . . . . .36DeCato Builders . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38Devaney, Doak & Garrett Booksellers . . .17Dick’s Auto Body & Collision Center . . . . .29Dirigo Waste Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35Doe’s Inc. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .69Don Lowe & Sons . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .51Double D Auto Sales” . . . . . . . . . . . .13

Dunkin Donuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .53Dunn & Pakulski . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .54E&L Logging and Excavation . . . . . .64E.J. Carrier Inc. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .57E.W. Moore & Son Pharmacy . . . . . .55East Road Electric . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41Edmunds Market . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .62Ellis Pond Variety & Cabins . . . . . . . .63Ellis Variety . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .64End of the Rainbow . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32Evergreen Self-Storage . . . . . . . . . . . .23Fairfield Antiques Mall . . . . . . . . . . . .24Family Pet Connection & Grooming . . . . .53Farmington Save-A-Lot . . . . . . . . . . .14Farmington Travel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14Fine Line Paving & Grading . . . . . . . .36Fireside Inn & Suites . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35Five Fields Farm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .78Flagship Cinemas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34Flagstaff Area Business Association .59Floormaster North . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39Foundation Sealing Service . . . . . . . . .43Four Winds Too Lobster Co. . . . . . . .31Franklin Health Dermatology . . . . . .18Franklin Savings Bank . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6Franklin-Somerset Federal Credit Union . . .5Frechette’s Ski Doo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .31Fred O. Smith Manufacturing . . . . . . .14Frederick Heating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25Freeman’s Construction . . . . . . . . . . .68Frost Motor Supply Inc. . . . . . . . . . . .66G.L. Sundgren . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .79G3 Firearms . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9Galeyrie Maps & Custom Frames . . .28Gerald Vermette DDS . . . . . . . . . . . .53Glen Luce Logging, Inc. . . . . . . . . . . .29Goin’ Postal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .74Goings Electric Supply Inc. . . . . . . . .14Graf Mechanical Service Inc . . . . . . .50GrantLee’s Tavern & Grill . . . . . . . . .32Grant’s Asphalt Maintenance . . . . . . .50Greenwood Mountain Inn . . . . . . . . .70Gregorys DisposAll . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23Group Adams Propane Services . . . .11Grover Woodwork.com . . . . . . . . . . .31Hammond Lumber Company . . . . . .27Hanson Landworks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .58Harris Drug Store . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41Harvest Gold Gallery . . . . . . . . . . . . .47HealthReach Community Health Centers . . . .8Heritage House . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .54Hight Chevrolet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4Hillside Homes LLC . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27Howie’s Welding & Fabrication . . . . .12Hungry Hollow Country Store . . . . . . .7Hydraulic Hose & Assembly . . . . . . . .3Imelda’s Fabric & Design . . . . . . . . . .17Insulation Solutions Inc. . . . . . . . . . . .33J&M Motors . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15J.E. Carson Co. Inc. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24J.T. Reid Gunshop . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3Jackman Auto Parts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .57Jackman Hardware . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .57Jackman Hotel Lounge . . . . . . . . . . . .57Jackman Power Sports . . . . . . . . . . . .41Jake’s Garage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .66

Jason Stevens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19Jay-Livermore-Livermore Falls Chamber . . .12Jay’s Towing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .57Jean Castonguay Excavating . . . . . . . .31Jimmy’s Market . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .55Jim’s Small Engine Service . . . . . . . . .31Johnny Millionaire . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .73Jordan Lumber Co. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .59Jordan Tree Harvesters . . . . . . . . . . . .78JT’s Finest Kind Saw . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25Judy’s Variety . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .66Julian’s Wayne General Store . . . . . . .30K.G. Millett Masonry . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9Katie Q Convenience . . . . . . . . . . . . .53Keith Hadley Inc. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .70Kelley’s Auto Parts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .68Kevin Hawes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19Kitchen Solutions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13Kniffin’s Specialty Meats . . . . . . . . . . .27Knopp Chiropractic . . . . . . . . . . . . . .73KSW Federal Credit Union . . . . . . . .23Kyes Motel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .51L.N. Violette Co. Inc. . . . . . . . . . . . . .22Ladd Logging . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32Lake Parlin Lodge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .49Larsen’s Electric . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .65LaVallee’s Garage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .56Lemon Stream Gamelands . . . . . . . . .25Linnell Motel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .46Long Pond Camps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .56Looney Moose Café . . . . . . . . . . . . . .60Luce’s Maine-Grown Meats . . . . . . . .37Luker’s Place . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17M. Stanley Excavation LLC . . . . . . . .46Madison Automotive & Recreation . .26Maine Historical Society . . . . . . . . . . .28Maine Maple Products . . . . . . . . . . . .26Maine Veterans Homes . . . . . . . . . . . .46Maine-ly Elder Care . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34Major’s Heating Services . . . . . . . . . . .71Mama Bear’s Den . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41Martin’s Auto Service . . . . . . . . . . . . .45Maurice Restaurant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .46Maynard’s In Maine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40McAllister Accounting & Tax . . . . . . .12McCormack Building Supply . . . . . . .20McLucas Firewood . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .78Merle Lloyd & Sons . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25Michael F. Cook & Associates . . . . . . .7Mid Maine Chamber of Commerce . . . . . .33Mike Wainer Plumbing & Heating . . . .32Mingo Springs Golf Course . . . . . . . .62Moosehead Motorsports . . . . . . . . . . .41Moosehead Rubbish & Recycling . . . .58Moosehead Sled Repair & Rentals . . .40Moosetracks Family Cottages . . . . . . .42Morning Dew Natural Grocery . . . . .77Morris Construction . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21Morton & Furbish . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .60Mountain Country Supermarket . . . .56N.R. PC Repair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22Napa of Greenville . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .59Naples Packing Co. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .64New Portland Agricultural Fair . . . . .50Niboban Camps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .43Nicols Brothers Trucking/Logging. . . .67

North Camps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .61North Country Powersports . . . . . . . .34North Country Trailers . . . . . . . . . . . .23North Country Variety . . . . . . . . . . . .55Northeast Laboratory Services . . . . . . .5Northern Highlights . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36Northern Mountains Real Estate . . . .56Northland Hotel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .58Northwood Builders . . . . . . . . . . . . . .62On The Level . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26Orange Cat Café . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42Otis Federal Credit Union . . . . . . . . .12Oxford Federal Credit Union . . . . . . .28Oxford Hills & Weston Funeral Services . . . .71Oxford Hills Chamber . . . . . . . . . . . .79Oxford Hills Taxi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .74P&D Handyman & Carpentry . . . . . .75Packard Appraisal Inc. . . . . . . . . . . . .47Paradis Window Tinting . . . . . . . . . . .54Paris Appraisal Services . . . . . . . . . . .70Pat’s Pizza Bethel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .68Penobscot Marine Museum . . . . . . . .48Peppers Garden & Grill . . . . . . . . . . .10Pine Grove Lodge & Cabins . . . . . . .40Pine Tree Orthopedic & Footcare . . .80Pine Tree Paving . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .45Pine Tree Timber Frames . . . . . . . . . .23Pines Market LLC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .60Pleasant River Motel . . . . . . . . . . . . . .67Pleasant Street Inn . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .58Poland Corporation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .70Polly’s Variety . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .72Poulin-Turner Union Hall . . . . . . . . . .50Quinn Hardware . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .50R.E. Lowell Lumber Inc. . . . . . . . . . .29R.F. Automotive Repair . . . . . . . . . . . .54R.H. Wales & Son Inc. . . . . . . . . . . . .79R.S. Pidacks Inc. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11Ralph Libby Chainsaws . . . . . . . . . . . . .9Randy’s Full Service Auto Repair . . . . .37Rangeley Auto Supply . . . . . . . . . . . . .44Rangeley Equipment Repair . . . . . . . .61Rangeley Rehab and Wellness Center . . . .61Rangeley Saddleback Inn . . . . . . . . . .80Raymond Remodeling . . . . . . . . . . . . .12RDM Electric . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15Redington Fairview General Hospital . . . .38Rick-Kevin Lewis Construction . . . . .76Rick’s Garage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .37River Valley Grill . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .66Riverside Realty . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .65Rob Elliot Excavation & Trucking . . .44Robert W. Libby & Sons Inc. . . . . . . . .8Roland H. Tyler Logging . . . . . . . . . .63Rolfe Corporation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .47Ron’s Market . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16Rooster’s Roadhouse . . . . . . . . . . . . . .68Rumford Fraternal Order of Eagles . . .65Rumford Hospital . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .66Sackett & Brake Survey Inc. . . . . . . . .52Saco Valley Sports Center . . . . . . . . . .78Sandy River Cash Fuel . . . . . . . . . . . .62Sandy River Center . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15Sandy River Golf Course . . . . . . . . . .16Sandy River/York Farms . . . . . . . . . .32Santos Custom Builders . . . . . . . . . . . .6

Scott - N - Scottie’s Inc. . . . . . . . . . . .20Scott’s Flooring . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26Shields Construction . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25Short Circuit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .54Simply Sweet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .64Skills Inc. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35Skowhegan Equipment & Tool . . . . .52Small Engine Specialty . . . . . . . . . . . .64Smart & Edwards Funeral Home . . . .52Smedberg’s Crystal Spring Farm . . . .71Solon Corner Market . . . . . . . . . . . . .38Solon Hotel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .55Solon Superette . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40Sonny’s Pizza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22Sonny’s Seafood & Sandwiches . . . . .29Spillover Motel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .43Stan’s Excavation & Home Building . . . . .20Stetson’s Auto Service . . . . . . . . . . . . .72Steve Thomas Builders . . . . . . . . . . . . .8Stevens Forest Products . . . . . . . . . . .19Sully’s Restaurant & Tavern . . . . . . . .30Sun Auto & Salvage . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25T.R.H. & Sons Excavation . . . . . . . . .29Taste of Eden Vegan Café . . . . . . . . .75Taylor Made Homes . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13Taylor’s Drug Store . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26Tessier Custom Carpentry . . . . . . . . .50The Corner Side . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .43The Irregular . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42The River View Resort . . . . . . . . . . . .68The Sterling Inn . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40The Storekeepers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .71The Sudbury Inn . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .45The White Elephant . . . . . . . . . . . . . .63Tourmaline Hill Farm . . . . . . . . . . . . .70Town of Mexico . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .65Trantens Family Market . . . . . . . . . . .60Trucks Unlimited . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .51Tuttles Auto Sales . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17Twin Rivers Building Supply . . . . . . . .63Undercover Flea Market . . . . . . . . . . .73Village Market . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22V-Town Paintball . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20W.D. Bickford Machinery . . . . . . . . . .36Ward Cedar Log Homes . . . . . . . . . . .76Warren’s Florist . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .76Watson, Neal & York Funeral Home . . . .76Western Maine Community Action . . . . . .5Western Mountains Financial Services . . . . .15Whitewater Farm Market . . . . . . . . . .16Whitney Building . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33Wilber Heating & Plumbing . . . . . . . .62William Perry Cigar Lounge . . . . . . . .77Wilson Excavating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .75Wings Hill Inn & Restaurant . . . . . . .19Winslow Aluminum . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21Winslow Automotive & Tire . . . . . . .20Winthrop Area Federal Credit Union . . . .30Winthrop Motel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30Wood Pellet Warehouse . . . . . . . . . . . .6Woodlawn Rehab & Nursing . . . . . . .38Wood-Mizer of Maine . . . . . . . . . . . .12Wood’s Lawn Company . . . . . . . . . . .47Woody’s Bar & Grill . . . . . . . . . . . . . .58

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g.l. SUnDgrEnlead Smart renovators

Specializing in fine Craftsmanship

geoffrey l. [email protected]

756-9635

fUlly inSUrEDStatE CErtifiED #klSri-852

PO Box 76Fryeburg, ME 04037

R.h. wales & son, inc.“HELP CONSERvE OuR FORESTS

WITH WISE MANAGEMENT”

925-1363po Box 116

lovell, Me 04051

tiMBeR hARvestiNglAND CleARiNg

The Oxford HillsChamber

of Commerce

“Head for the Hills...the Hills of Western Maine!”

tel: 207.743.2281 • Fax: 207.743.0687web: www.oxfordhillsMaine.comemail: [email protected] western Avenue, south paris, Me 04281

Western Lakes & Mountains Region

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(nordic)• Snowmobiling• Scenic drives

Rangeley Saddleback Inn2303 Main Street • Rangeley, Maine USa 04970

207-864-3434www.rangeleysaddlebackinn.com

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