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Once the laughing stock of the cooking world, London has got its culinary act together in the last 20 years and is now an undisputed dining destination. There are plenty of fine, Michelin-starred restaurants, but it is the sheer diversity on offer that is extraordinary: from Afghan to Vietnamese, London is a virtual A to Z of world cuisine.
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Specialities ENGLISH FOOD England may have given the world beans on toast, mushy peas and chip butties (French fries between two slices of but-tered – and untoasted – white bread), but that’s hardly the whole story. When well prepared – be it a Sunday lunch of roast beef and Yorkshire pudding (light batter baked until fl uff y and eaten with gravy) or a cornet of lightly battered fi sh and chips sprinkled with salt and malt vinegar – English food can have its moments. And nothing beats a fry-up (or full English breakfast) with bacon, sausages, beans, eggs and mushrooms the morning after a big night out.
Modern British food has become a cui-sine in its own right, by championing tra-ditional (and sometimes underrated) in-gredients such as root vegetables, smoked fi sh, shellfi sh, game and other meats such as sausages and black pudding (a kind of sausage stuff ed with oatmeal, spices and blood). Dishes can be anything from game served with a traditional vegetable such as Jerusalem artichoke, seared scallops with orange-scented black pudding and roast pork with chorizo on rosemary mash.
SEAFOOD Many who travel to England comment on the fact that for an island, Brits seem to make surprisingly little of their seafood, with the exception of the ubiquitous fi sh and chips. Modern British restaurants have started catching up, however, and many now off er local specialities such as Dover sole, Cornish oysters, Scottish
Traditional British roast dinner
PAU
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Opening Hours In this book opening hours are listed in individual reviews only when they sig-nifi cantly diff er from standard opening hours, as indicated below:
Chain restaurants: noon-11pm
Most restaurants: noon-2.30pm and 6-11pm
Price Ranges The symbols below indicate the average cost per main course at the restaurant in question.
£ less than £10
££ £10-20
£££ more than £20
Reservations Make reservations at weekends, if
you’re keen on a particular place, or if you’re in a group of more than four people.
Top-end restaurants often run mul-tiple sittings, with allocated time slots (generally two hours); pick a late slot if you don’t want to be rushed.
Tipping Most restaurants automatically tack a ‘discretionary’ service charge (usually 12.5%) onto the bill; this should be clearly advertised. If you feel the service wasn’t adequate, you can tip separately (or not tip at all).
Haute Cuisine, Low Prices Top-end restaurants offer set lunch
menus that are great value; à la carte prices are sometimes cheaper for lunch.
Many West End restaurants offer good-value pre- or post-theatre menus.
The reliable internet booking service Top Table (www.toptable.co.uk) offers substantial discounts (up to 50% off the food bill) at selected restaurants.
BYO BYO is common among budget estab-
lishments; some charge corkage (£1 to £1.50 per bottle of wine).
Wine Pages (www.wine-pages.com) keeps a useful directory of BYO restaurants.
61 Abercrombie & Fitch.................................C6 87 Warehouse ................................................ B262 Agent Provocateur .................................... E2 88 Waterstone's ............................................. E763 Algerian Coffee Stores............................. G364 Apple Store ................................................B2 ÿ Sleeping (p325)65 Aquascutum ............................................. D6 89 Brown's ...................................................... B766 Beyond The Valley.....................................D3 Dean Street Townhouse.................. (see 14)67 Foyle's ....................................................... H2 90 Haymarket.................................................H7
Grant & Cutler.................................. (see 67) 91 Hazlitt's ......................................................G268 Hamleys .....................................................C4 92 Number 5 Maddox Street.........................B369 Harold Moore's Records...........................D2 93 Soho Hotel ................................................. F270 Joy ...............................................................E1 94 W ................................................................G571 Liberty ........................................................C3 95 YHA Oxford St ...........................................D2
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St James'Gardens
Upper Woburn Pl
Oxford St
Great
Russell StBayley St
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Great Russell St
RathbonePl
AlfredPl Store
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Soho Sq
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UniversitySt
Chenies StCleveland
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BedfordAve
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Howland St
Drummond St
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Tavistock Pl
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Bucknall St
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Tavistock Sq
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TottenhamCourt Rd
Eversholt St
Bloomsbury St
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Russell Sq
St GilesHi g h St
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Euston Rd
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St George'sGardens
BloomsburySquare
St PancrasCoram's
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Bloomsbury
Way
Drury La
MacklinSt
Stukely
St
Tonbridge StArgyle St
Bury Pl
Crenville
St
Hunter St
Guildford St
MuseumSt
QueenSq
Handel
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Harrison StCromer St
BedfordPl
Betterto
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Brunswick Sq
Bernard St
Southampton Row
High HolbornNew Oxford St
RussellSq
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æ Top Sights (p83) 22 Lord John Russell ................ D2British Museum ................... D5 23 Museum Tavern................... D6Wellcome Collection ........... B2 24 Newman Arms..................... B6
25 Queen's Larder .....................E4æ Sights (p101) 26 Tempus Bar ......................... D4
1 Bedford Square ................... C52 Brunswick Centre.................E3 ý Entertainment (p130)3 BT Tower.............................. A4 27 100 Club ............................... B74 Gordon Square .................... C3 28 Place ..................................... C25 New London Architecture... C56 Petrie Museum of Egyptian þ Shopping (p132)
Archaeology...................... B4 29 Bang Bang Exchange .......... B57 Pollock's Toy Museum........ B5 30 Gay's the Word .................... D28 Russell Square..................... D4 31 Gosh! .................................... D69 St George's Bloomsbury..... E6 32 London Review Bookshop ...E5
33 On the Beat .......................... C6ú Eating (p113)
10 Abeno ................................... E6 ÿ Sleeping (p325)11 Busaba Eathai...................... B5 34 Academy .............................. C512 Chilli Cool ............................. D2 35 Arosfa ................................... B413 Diwana Bhel Poori House ... A2 36 Arran House Hotel............... B414 Fino ....................................... B5 37 Charlotte Street Hotel......... B615 Hakkasan ............................. C6 38 Generator............................. D216 Hummus Bros.......................E5 39 Grange Blooms Hotel.......... D517 North Sea Fish Restaurant . D2 40 Harlingford Hotel................. D218 Rasa Samudra ..................... B6 41 Jesmond Hotel..................... B419 Ravi Shankar........................ A2 42 Morgan Hotel ....................... D620 Roka...................................... B5 43 Ridgemount Hotel ............... C4
û Drinking & Nightlife (p125)21 Bradley's Spanish Bar......... B6
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HydePark
Regent's Park
South Molton St
Gloucester Pl
Marylebone
High
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Oxford St
Park La
Davies
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Nottingham
Pl
Gloucester Pl
Marble Ave
Wigmore St
Edgware Rd
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Marylebone Rd
Portman Sq
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Marylebone Rd
Bickenhall St
Culross St
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Edward Mews
Grosvenor Sq
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Devonshire St
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Dorset St
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Marylebone
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York Tce
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Wellbeck
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Bentinck St
Brook St
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Seymour Pl
Portman Cl
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Ivor Pl
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Binney
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StThayer
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The Ring
Bond St
Regent'sPark
Baker St
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Bolton St
Mansfield
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Hanover
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Hallam
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Grosvenor St
Curzon St
Berkeley Sq
Holles St
Duchess St
Bru
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Bolsover St
Bourd on St
Berkeley St
Great Portland
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Eæ Top Sights (p80) 24 Prince Regent ...................... C2
6 Fishworks............................. C2 32 French Connection UK........ C47 Golden Hind ......................... C3 33 John Lewis ............................E4
Gordon Ramsay at 34 Kurt Geiger........................... D5Claridge's .................(see 42) 35 Marks & Spencer................. C5
Eæ Top Sights (p80) 17 Spencer House .................... B2
Buckingham Palace............. A4 18 St James's Palace ............... B2Churchill War Rooms .......... D3 19 St James's Park................... C3Houses of Parliament...........E4 20 St John's, Smith Square ......E5Royal Academy of Arts ........B1 21 St Stephen's Entrance .........E4Tate Britain ...........................E7 22 White Cube Gallery...............B1Westminster Abbey............. D4
1 Banqueting House................E2 24 Inn the Park.......................... D22 Big Ben ..................................E4 25 Vincent Rooms .................... C63 Burlington Arcade ................B1 26 Wolseley ................................B14 Cenotaph...............................E35 Clarence House ................... B3 Entertainment (p130)6 Green Park ........................... A2 ICA Cinema ................... (see 9)7 Guards Museum .................. B48 Horse Guards Parade.......... D2 þ Shopping (p132)9 Institute of Contemporary 27 DR Harris.............................. B2
Arts .................................... D2 28 Fortnum & Mason.................B110 Jewel Tower ..........................E4 29 Penhaligon's .........................B111 National Police Memorial.... D2 30 Shepherds............................ B612 No 10 Downing Street ..........E3 31 Taylor of Old Bond Street....B113 Queen Victoria Memorial.... B3 32 Wright & Teague...................A114 Queen's Chapel.................... B215 Queen's Gallery ................... A4 ÿ Sleeping (p325)16 Royal Mews.......................... A5 33 Ritz........................................ A2
æ Top Sights (p93) û Drinking & Nightlife (p128)National Gallery .........................................A6 37 Cross Keys.................................................C3National Portrait Gallery...........................B6 38 Freud..........................................................B2Sir John Soane's Museum .........................E1 39 Gordon's Wine Bar.................................... C7Somerset House........................................ E5 40 Heaven ....................................................... C7Trafalgar Square .......................................B7 41 Ku Bar Lisle St ........................................... A4
42 Lamb & Flag...............................................B4æ Sights (p106) 43 Polski Bar................................................... D1
1 Admiralty Arch...........................................A7 44 Princess Louise ......................................... D12 Bush House................................................E4 45 Salisbury.................................................... B53 Courtauld Gallery ......................................E4 46 Seven Stars ...............................................G24 Covent Garden Piazza.............................. D45 Hunterian Museum ................................... F2 ý Entertainment (p130)6 Inner Temple and Middle Temple ........... H3 47 12 Bar ......................................................... A27 Leicester Square .......................................A5 48 Donmar Warehouse.................................. B38 Lincoln's Inn................................................F1 49 London Coliseum ...................................... B59 London Transport Museum..................... D4 50 Poetry Café................................................ C2
10 Nelson's Column .......................................B7 Royal Opera House .......................... (see 12)11 Royal Courts of Justice............................ G3 51 tkts Leicester Sq ....................................... A512 Royal Opera House....................................C313 St Clement Danes..................................... G3 þ Shopping (p134)14 St Giles-in-the-Fields.................................A2 52 Apple Store................................................C415 St Martin-in-the-Fields..............................B6 53 Benjamin Pollock's Toyshop....................C416 St Paul's Church........................................C4 54 Covent Garden Market .............................C417 Stanley Gibbons ........................................D5 55 Forbidden Planet Megastore ................... B218 Strand.........................................................C6 56 James Smith & Sons..................................B119 Twinings .................................................... G3 57 Jigsaw ........................................................B4
58 Karen Millen...............................................C4ú Eating (p120) 59 Lucy in Disguise ........................................C4
20 Asadal......................................................... D1 60 Molton Brown............................................D421 Assa............................................................A2 61 Neal's Yard Dairy....................................... B322 Baozi Inn.....................................................A4 62 Oasis ..........................................................C423 Ben's Cookies ........................................... D4 63 Paul Smith .................................................C424 Canela.........................................................B3 64 Poste Mistress........................................... B325 Giaconda Dining Room .............................A2 65 Space NK ...................................................C326 Great Queen Street ...................................D2 66 Stanford's ..................................................B427 J Sheekey...................................................B5 67 Ted Baker ..................................................C428 Monmouth Coffee Company....................B3 68 Urban Outfitters........................................ B329 National Dining Rooms .............................A630 Portrait .......................................................B6 ÿ Sleeping (p325)31 Primrose Bakery....................................... D4 69 Covent Garden Hotel ................................B332 Rock & Sole Plaice.....................................B2 70 Fielding Hotel.............................................D333 Rules...........................................................C5 71 High Holborn Residence...........................C234 Scoop .........................................................C3 72 One Aldwych.............................................. E435 Shanghai Blues.......................................... C1 73 Seven Dials Hotel ...................................... B236 Wahaca.......................................................C5 74 Waldorf Hilton ........................................... E4
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THE SOUTH BANK Map on p436
æ Top Sights (p164) 30 Oxo Tower Restaurant & Brasserie.........C3Borough Market.........................................E4 31 Roast .......................................................... E4London Dungeon ....................................... F4 Skylon .............................................. (see 46)London Eye ................................................A4Shakespeare's Globe ................................D3 û Drinking & Nightlife (p177)Southbank Centre .....................................A4 32 Anchor Bankside....................................... E3Southwark Cathedral ................................E3 33 Baltic ..........................................................C4Tate Modern ..............................................D3 34 Concrete ....................................................B4
35 George Inn ................................................. E4æ Sights (p169) 36 King's Arms ...............................................B4
1 Bankside Gallery........................................D3 37 Rake ........................................................... E42 City Hall ..................................................... G4 38 Royal Oak................................................... E53 Clink Prison Museum ................................E3 39 Scootercaffe.............................................. B54 County Hall ................................................A5 Swan at the Globe............................(see 47)5 Design Museum........................................ H46 Fashion & Textile Museum .......................G5 ý Entertainment (p178)7 Golden Hinde .............................................E3 40 BFI IMAX Cinema ...................................... B48 Golden Hinde Shop (Ticket Office)..........E3 41 BFI Southbank........................................... B3
Hayward Gallery .............................. (see 34) 42 Menier Chocolate Factory........................ E49 HMS Belfast .............................................. G3 43 National Theatre ....................................... B3
10 London Bridge Experience & London 44 Old Vic........................................................C5Tombs ..................................................... F3 Purcell Room ....................................(see 45)
11 London Duck Tours...................................A5 45 Queen Elizabeth Hall................................. A312 London Film Museum ...............................A5 46 Royal Festival Hall ..................................... A413 Millennium Bridge .....................................D3 47 Shakespeare's Globe................................D3
National Theatre.............................. (see 43) 48 Southbank Centre..................................... A414 Old Operating Theatre Museum & 49 Young Vic...................................................C4
Herb Garret ............................................. F4Queen Elizabeth Hall ....................... (see 45) þ Shopping (p180)
15 RIB London Voyages.................................A4 50 Bermondsey Market.................................G616 Rose Theatre .............................................E3 51 Konditor & Cook........................................ B4
Royal Festival Hall ........................... (see 46) 52 Konditor & Cook........................................ E417 Sea Life London Aquarium .......................A5 53 South Bank Book Market .........................B318 Shard .......................................................... F419 St Olaf House............................................. F3 ÿ Sleeping (p329)20 Topolski Century .......................................B4 54 Bankside House ........................................D321 Vinopolis.....................................................E3 55 Bermondsey Square Hotel.......................G6
56 Butler's Wharf Residence.........................H4ú Eating (p173) 57 Express by Holiday Inn .............................D4
22 Anchor & Hope ..........................................C4 58 Great Dover St Apartments ..................... F623 Applebee's Fish Café.................................E4 59 Mad Hatter.................................................C3
Canteen............................................ (see 46) 60 Oasis .......................................................... F424 Champor-Champor................................... F4 61 Premier Inn ................................................ E325 Garrison Public House ..............................G5 62 Premier Inn ................................................ A526 Laughing Gravy..........................................C5 63 St Christopher's Inn.................................. E427 M Manze.................................................... G6 64 St Christopher's Village............................ E428 Magdalen................................................... G4 65 Stamford St Apartments..........................B429 Masters Super Fish ...................................C5
æ Sights (p190) 58 John Sandoe Books...... E51 Albert Memorial ............ B3 ú Eating (p195) 59 Limelight Movie Art ...... C72 Australian War Bibendum..............(see 12) 60 Lulu Guinness................ E5
Memorial ......................F3 27 Byron .............................. C7 61 Rippon Cheese Stores . G53 Brompton Oratory........ C4 28 Daquise .......................... C54 Carlyle's House ............. D7 29 Dinner by Heston ÿ Sleeping (p329)5 Chelsea Old Church...... C7 Blumenthal ................. E3 62 Aster House................... C56 Chelsea Physic 30 El Pirata ...........................F2 63 Astor Hyde Park............ B3
Garden..........................E7 31 Galvin at Windows .........F2 64 Astor Kensington.......... A57 Diana, Princess of 32 Gordon Ramsay .............E7 65 Astor Victoria ................H5
Wales Memorial 33 Haché ............................. B7 66 B+B Belgravia.................F5Playground ................. A2 34 Hunan ............................. F6 67 Blakes .............................B6
8 Edward Jenner Statue...C1 35 Kazan..............................G5 68 Cadogan Hotel............... E4Elfin Oak ..................(see 7) 36 Launceston Place ......... A4 69 easyHotel Victoria ........ G5
9 Holocaust Memorial 37 Min Jiang........................ A3 70 Gore ................................B4Garden......................... E3 38 Nobu ................................F2 71 Halkin...............................F3
Museum ...................... E6 42 Racine.............................D4 76 Number Sixteen............ C514 New Zealand War 43 Rasoi Vineet Bhatia ...... D5 77 San Domenico House... D5
Memorial ......................F3 44 Roussillon....................... F6 78 Windermere Hotel ........G6Orangery .............. (see 39) 45 Tom's Kitchen ...............D6
15 Peter Pan Statue........... C2 46 Zuma...............................D316 Princess Diana
Memorial û Drinking & Nightlife (p198)Fountain ...................... C3 47 Drayton Arms ................B6
Royal Albert Hall . (see 52)18 Royal Hospital ý Entertainment (p198)
Chelsea........................ E6 50 Cadogan Hall ................. E5
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CLERKENWELL, SHOREDITCH & SPITALFIELDS Map on p444
æ Top Sights (p204) 28 Moro ...............................A4 68 Three Kings.................... B5Dennis Severs' 29 Nude Espresso..............H6 69 Vibe Bar..........................H5
House .......................... G5 30 Poppies...........................H6 70 Vinoteca .........................C6Geffrye Museum ...........G2 31 Princess of 71 Worship St
1 19 Princelet St ...............H6 32 Sông Quê........................G2 72 XOYO .............................. F42 Brick Lane Great 33 ST ALi .............................C5 73 Ye Olde Mitre .................B6
Mosque........................H6 34 St John ...........................C6 Zetter Townhouse(see 99)3 Britannic House .............F5 35 St John Bread &4 Bunhill Fields ..................E5 Wine.............................H6 ý Entertainment (p214)5 Charterhouse ................C6 36 Viet Grill..........................G3 74 Comedy Café.................G46 Christ Church 37 Whitecross St 75 Sadler's Wells ................ B3
Spitalfields..................H6 Market ......................... D5Museum of the þ Shopping (p214)
Order of St û Drinking & Nightlife(p210) 76 123 Bethnal GreenJohn ......................(see 7) 333........................(see 60) Road.............................H4
Old Truman 38 93 Feet East...................H5 77 Absolute Vintage...........H6Brewery............. (see 69) 39 Aquarium ....................... F4 78 Backyard Market...........H5
7 St John's Gate ............... C5 40 Bar Kick ..........................G4 79 Brick Lane Market.........H58 Wesley's Chapel.............E5 41 Book Club....................... F4 econe.................... (see 43)9 White Cube Gallery........F4 42 Bridge .............................G3 80 Labour & Wait................H4
Bistrot Bruno 47 Dreambags- 84 Mr Start .......................... F4Loubet ............... (see 99) jaguarshoes ................G3 85 No-one............................G3
11 Boundary .......................G4 48 East Village .................... F4 86 Present...........................G412 Brick Lane Beigel 49 Fabric..............................C6 87 Rough Trade East .........H5
Bake.............................H4 50 Filthy MacNasty's ......... A3 88 Spitalfields13 Caravan.......................... A4 51 Fox & Anchor.................C6 Market .........................H614 Cây Tre ............................F4 52 George & Dragon ..........G4 89 Start................................ F4
Clark's................... (see 28) 53 Golden Heart .................H6 Start Menswear... (see 84)15 Coach & Horses ............ A5 54 Happiness 90 Sunday UpMarket.........H616 Eagle ............................... A5 Forgets .........................F3 91 Tatty Devine ..................H417 Exmouth Market ........... A4 55 Horse & Groom .............G518 Eyre Brothers .................F4 56 Jerusalem Tavern ......... B5 ÿ Sleeping (p332)19 Fifteen ............................ E3 57 Loungelover...................H4 92 13 Princelet St ...............H620 Hawksmoor ................... G5 58 Macbeth .........................G3 93 Express by21 Kêu!..................................F4 59 Mason & Taylor .............H4 Holiday Inn.................. F422 Leila's Shop ...................G4 60 Mother Bar.....................G4 Fox & Anchor........ (see 51)23 Les Trois Garçons.........H5 61 Nightjar........................... E4 94 Hoxton Hotel ................. F424 Look Mum No 62 Old Blue Last .................G4 95 Malmaison .....................C6
Medcalf................. (see 28) 65 Queen of Hoxton............F5 98 Shoreditch26 Modern Pantry .............. B5 66 Red Lion .........................G3 Rooms .........................G527 Morito ............................. A4 67 Ten Bells.........................H6 99 Zetter Hotel ................... B5
1 Blind Beggar ........................ B5 40 Viajante ................................ B42 East London Mosque .......... B5 41 Wapping Food...................... C73 Execution Dock.................... B7 42 Whitechapel Gallery4 Great Synagogue................. B5 Dining Room ..................... A55 London Fields ...................... B26 London Fields Lido .............. B2 ûDrinking & Nightlife (p229)7 Mile End Park....................... D5 43 Bethnal Green Working8 Olympic Park ........................E2 Men's Club ........................ B49 Ragged School Museum..... D5 44 Britannia............................... D2
10 St Anne's, Limehouse .........D6 45 Captain Kidd ........................ B711 St Augustine's Tower...........B1 46 Carpenter's Arms................ B412 St George-in-the-East ......... B6 Dove Freehouse..........(see 60)13 St George's Town Hall 47 Grapes.................................. D6
Park ....................................E4 51 Prospect of Whitby.............. C717 Tower House........................ B5 52 Rhythm Factory................... A618 Trinity Green Almshouses.. B5 53 Royal Inn on the Park .......... C319 V&AMuseum of 54 Royal Oak ............................. A4
Childhood.......................... B4 55 White Swan ..........................D620 Victoria Park ........................D321 Whitechapel Bell Foundry... B5 ý Entertainment (p231)
William Booth Statue . (see 18) 56 Bistrotheque........................ B357 Hackney Empire .................. B2
1 Eastern Curve Gardens............................. H2 Jazz Bar Dalston...............................(see 40)2 Estorick Collection of Modern Italian 29 Junction.......................................................D2
Art ..............................................................E3 30 Passing Clouds ...........................................H33 Euston Fire Station.....................................A7 31 Public House ...............................................D34 London Canal Museum..............................B5 32 Ruby Lounge............................................... B55 Ridley Road Market ................................... H2 33 Somers Town Coffeehouse ...................... A66 St Pancras Chambers................................A6
ý Entertainment (p251)ú Eating (p245) 34 Arcola Theatre............................................H2
7 A Little of What You Fancy ....................... H3 35 Café Oto.......................................................H28 Acorn House................................................B6 36 London's Little Opera House at the9 Addis.............................................................B6 King's Head Theatre ...............................D4
10 Afghan Kitchen............................................D5 37 O2 Academy Islington ...............................D511 Breakfast Club ............................................D5 38 Rio Cinema...................................................H1
Café Oto .............................................(see 35) 39 Union Chapel...............................................D312 Duke of Cambridge..................................... E5 40 Vortex Jazz Club.........................................H213 Gallipoli.........................................................D414 Georgian Iberian Restaurant.....................C4 þ Shopping (p254)15 Le Mercury...................................................D4 41 Annie's Vintage Costumes & Textiles...... D516 Mangal Ocakbasi......................................... H1 42 Camden Passage........................................ D517 Masala Zone ................................................D4 43 Gill Wing.......................................................D318 Morgan M.....................................................C2 44 Housmans ...................................................B619 Ottolenghi ....................................................D4 45 Past Caring.................................................. E420 Rodizio Rico.................................................D5
æ Top Sights (p237)Camden Market ............................................D3London Zoo....................................................C4
æ Sights (p238)1 London Central Islamic Centre &
Mosque........................................................A62 London Zoo (Entrance)................................B43 Primrose Hill..................................................B34 Regent's Park ................................................C5
û Drinking & Nightlife (p248)14 Bar Vinyl.........................................................D315 Black Cap.......................................................D316 Crown & Goose .............................................D417 Edinboro Castle.............................................D418 Lock Tavern ...................................................D2
Proud Camden .................................... (see 28)19 Queen's ..........................................................B3
ý Entertainment (p251)20 Barfly ..............................................................C221 Electric Ballroom ..........................................D322 Jazz Café........................................................D323 Koko................................................................ E424 Lowdown at the Albany................................D725 Roundhouse ..................................................C2
þ Shopping (p254)Buck Street Market .............................(see 21)
ú Eating (p302)8 Al Boccon di'Vino..........................................C49 Chez Lindsay.................................................C5
10 Don Fernando's.............................................C411 Petersham Nurseries Café.......................... C7
û Drinking & Nightlife (p305)12 Cricketers ......................................................C413 White Cross ...................................................B4
ÿ Sleeping (p339)14 Petersham .....................................................C615 The Bingham .................................................C5
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æ Top Sights (p276) ú Eating (p285) Ø Sports & Activities (p280)Imperial War Museum.. C2 6 Kennington Tandoori....C4 14 The Oval ......................... B5
7 Lobster Pot ....................D3æ Sights (p278) ÿ Sleeping (p338)
1 Florence Nightingale û Drinking & Nightlife(p287) 15 Captain Bligh GuestMuseum .......................B1 8 Area ................................A4 House ..........................C2
2 Garden Museum ........... A2 9 Eagle ...............................A4 16 Days Hotel (Waterloo3 Kennington Park ........... C5 10 Fire .................................. A5 Branch) ....................... B24 Lambeth Palace ............ A2 11 Hoist ............................... A5 17 Kennington B&B ...........C45 Vauxhall City Farm ....... A4 12 Ministry of Sound..........D2 18 Park Plaza
A2 To New Cross Inn (1.2km);New Cross Gate Train &Tube Station (1.5km)
#e 0 0.25 miles0 500 m
‚
æ Top Sights (p270) Old Brewery ........................................(see 11)Chapel at Old Royal Naval College ...........C2 7 Spread Eagle...............................................C3Discover Greenwich ...................................C2 8 Tai Won Mein .............................................. B2Greenwich Park...........................................D3National Maritime Museum.......................C2 û Drinking & Nightlife (p285)Nelson Room...............................................C2 9 Cutty Sark Tavern .......................................D1Old Royal Naval College.............................C2 10 Greenwich Union ........................................ B4Painted Hall .................................................C2 11 Old Brewery ................................................C2Peter Harrison Planetarium ......................D3 12 Trafalgar Tavern..........................................C1Ranger's House...........................................C4Royal Observatory......................................D3 ý Entertainment (p288)Statue of General Wolfe.............................D3 13 Laban ........................................................... A3
14 Up the Creek ............................................... B2æ Sights (p273)
1 Cutty Sark....................................................B2 þ Shopping (p289)2 Fan Museum................................................C3 Beehive ............................................... (see 15)3 Queen's House............................................C2 Compendia...........................................(see 5)4 St Alfege Church.........................................B3 15 Emporium.................................................... B2
ú Eating (p281) ÿ Sleeping (p338)5 Greenwich Market ......................................C2 16 Number 16 St Alfege's ...............................B36 Inside ............................................................B3 17 St Christopher's Inn
Nevada Street Deli.............................. (see 7) Greenwich ................................................ B3
GREENW
ICH
Damian Harper Coordinating Author, The South Bank; Kensington & Hyde Park; Green-wich & South London; Richmond, Kew & Hampton Court Born off the Strand within earshot of Bow Bells (favourable wind permitting), Damian grew up in Notting Hill way before it was discovered by Hollywood. A Wykehamist, former Shakespeare and Company bookseller and linguist with two degrees, Damian has been authoring guidebooks for Lonely Planet since the late 1990s. He lives
in South London with his wife and two kids. Damian also wrote the Plan section, the Understand section, Museums & Galleries Overview, Entertainment Overview, Sports & Activities Overview.
Steve Fallon Day Trips from London After more than a decade of living in the centre of the known universe (East London) Steve Cockney-rhymes in his sleep, eats jellied eel for brekkie, drinks lager by the bucketful and dances round the occasional handbag. For this edition he went bush and is happy to report that there is life beyond the M25. Steve is a newly qualifi ed Blue Badge London guide.
Emilie Filou The West End, Hampstead & North London, Notting Hill & West London Emilie was born in Paris, where she lived until she was 18. Following her three-year degree and three gap years, she found herself in London, fell in love with the place and never really left. She now works as a journalist, specialising in Africa. Emilie also wrote Eating Overview, Drinking & Nightlife Overview, Gay & Lesbian Overview, Shopping Overview, Transport, Directory.
Sally Schafer The City, Clerkenwell, Shoreditch & Spitalfi elds, East End & Docklands Having lived in east London for over 10 years, in the shadow of the emerging Olympic Park for four, and worked in Clerkenwell and Old St for the last six, Sally had a whale of a time re-exploring her own backyard. She usually goes by the title of Associate Publisher in Lonely Planet’s London offi ce but has also written about London, Spain and Portugal on previous offi ce fl its.
Contributing Writer Vesna Maric wrote the With Kids chapter and has lived in London for 15 years. She has been delighted to discover an entirely new side of the city since having her daughter Frida, a year and a half ago. She looks forward to showing her the citý s wonderful array of off erings in the years to come.
Read more about Emilie at:lonelyplanet.com/members/emiliefi lou
Our Writers
Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason-able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi-mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.
Our StoryA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their fi rst travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.
Today, Lonely Planet has offi ces in Melbourne, London and Oakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.
Day One The West End (p 78 )
M First stop, Trafalgar Square for its architectural grandeur and photo-
op views down Whitehall to Big Ben. Art lovers will make an instant break for the National Gallery while the Houses of Parliament, Westminster Abbey and Buckingham Palace can all be reached on foot. If the sun’s out, seize a sandwich and race to the grass of leafy St James’s Park.
South Bank (p 162 )
R Walk across Westminster Bridge to Waterloo and, with your pre-booked
ticket for the London Eye, enjoy a revolu-tion in the city skies and astronomical views (if the weather’s clear). Sashay along the South Bank and head down the ramp into the bowels of the Tate Modern for some grade-A art. Aim your camera at St Paul’s Cathedral on the far side of the elegant Millennium Bridge and don’t forget Shakespeare’s Globe.
Southwark & South Bank (p 162 )
N Southwark Cathedral is well worth a gander and if Borough Market’s
open, follow your nostrils to some fi ne snack-ing on the move. Take to the terrace of the Anchor Bankside to sup on a post-dinner glass but have your camera primed again for the views. Alternatively, sink a drink in the historic George Inn on Borough High St or have theatre tickets booked for the Globe, the National Theatre or the Old Vic.
Day Two The City (p 139 )
M London’s fi nance-driven Square Mile is home to the must-see sights of St
Paul’s Cathedral and the Tower of Lon-don, both of which will require time. This is the oldest part of town, so there are plentiful churches and historic buildings, while in-novative chunks of modern architecture also pierce the sky. Don’t overlook the Museum of London if there’s time and, of course, views of iconic Tower Bridge and the river.
The West End (p 78 )
R Stand amid the swirling traffi c at Pic-cadilly Circus before exploring well-
heeled Mayfair, bustling Chinatown and historic Soho, then head to Covent Garden Piazza to watch the street performers and shop. Alternatively, save some calories for tackling the immensity of the British Mu-seum in Bloomsbury or window shop your way along Oxford Street to Marble Arch and on into Hyde Park.
The West End (p 78 )
N Relax on the grass of Green Park or St James’s Park as lights prepare to
sparkle across the West End. Squeeze into French House for a quick pint, aim for one of the neighbourhood’s outstanding dining options and have theatre tickets booked way ahead for a hit musical in London’s ‘theatre-land’.
Lunch National Dining Rooms (p 121 ) in the National Gallery: fantastic choice.
Dinner Skylon (p 173 ) for top views, but book well ahead.
Lunch The Restaurant at St Paul’s (p 157 ) is a handy choice.
Dinner Yauatcha (p 116 ) for excellent Chinese food.
Top Itineraries
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Day Three Kensington, Chelsea & Knightsbridge (p 181 )
M Make for South Kensington to explore the Victoria & Albert Museum
or the Natural History Museum, before roaming around Hyde Park and Kensing-ton Palace. Shop along Kensington High Street, the King’s Road or head to Knights-bridge and get swept away by the crowds in Harrods. For peace and quiet, head to the Chelsea Physic Garden, a walled botani-cal haven near the River Thames, or ex-plore tranquil Carlyle’s House. For full-on historic grandeur, take in Apsley House.
Clerkenwell, Shoreditch & Spitalfi elds (p 201 )
R Wander around Georgian Spi-talfi elds and explore the cultural
diversity along Brick Lane, size up con-temporary art at the White Cube Gallery and the intriguing interiors of the Geff rye Museum before digging out some history at St John’s Gate. For a quiet escape, hunt down the tombs and graves of the famous in Bunhill Fields.
North London (p 233 )
N For nightlife, head north – week-ends, especially, are buzzing: head to
Dalston for ultra-hip clubs, Camden for live music. You can fi nd excellent gastropubs, pubs, bars and DJ bars right across the neighbourhood, but focal points are Hamp-stead, Islington, Camden and King’s Cross.
Day Four Greenwich (p 268 )
M Greenwich’s architectural and mari-time sights are world-renowned but
there are also lovely village charms and some tremendous pubs, some of them right on the riverbank. Sights such as the Royal Observatory, National Maritime Mu-seum and Old Royal Naval College are near each other, so sightseeing can easily be done on foot.
Kew Gardens, Hampton Court Palace (p 291 )
R Choose between one of these two spectacular sights to fl ee urban
London and swallow up an afternoon of sightseeing: Hampton Court Palace for astonising Tudor brickwork and interiors, Kew Gardens for a botanical wonderland, some magnifi cent Victorian glasshouse architecture and an 18th-century Chinese pagoda. Alternatively, head to Richmond for its leisurely riverside ambience and views.
Notting Hill and West London (p 256 )
N Round off the day with a pint in the garden at the Windsor Castle
pub or another of the drinking houses between Kensington High Street and Not-ting Hill Gate. For something diff erent, dress up and ascend to the nightclub in the Kensington Roof Gardens – a club high above Kensington High St with half a hec-tare of gardens and four pink fl amingos.
Lunch Zuma (p 196 ) for top-notch Japanese cuisine.