Step 2 Anatomy Of A Creeper Thankfully, Minecraft's pixelated graphics and geometric shapes make the creeper one of the easiest patterns you will find. For my pattern I translated every two pixels into one inch. Head: 4" X 4" X 4" Body: 2" X 4" X 6" Legs: 2" X 2" X 3" - Make four of these Map out the panels for each side of these boxes on your fabric. Be sure to keep about a half inch allowance around the edges of each outline. Keep in mind that you do not need to cut out the top side of the body because it is closed off by
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Step 2
Anatomy Of A Creeper
Thankfully, Minecraft's pixelated graphics and geometric shapes make the creeper one of the easiest patterns
you will find. For my pattern I translated every two pixels into one inch.
Head: 4" X 4" X 4"
Body: 2" X 4" X 6"
Legs: 2" X 2" X 3" - Make four of these
Map out the panels for each side of these boxes on your fabric. Be sure to keep about a half inch allowance
around the edges of each outline. Keep in mind that you do not need to cut out the top side of the body
because it is closed off by the creeper's head.
When you cut the pieces out do not cut along the lines you drew. Instead, cut about a half-inch to a fourth-inch
outside the line.
The pieces should be easy to recognize, but if you think you will have trouble mixing them up I suggest labeling
each part, or cutting out only the pieces of the section you are working on.
Step 3
Pinning
Each body part is essentially a box consisting of six pieces; the top, bottom and four sides, except for the body
which has no top.
First line up the sides of two pieces of a body part and pin them together where they will be attached. Be sure
to pin them together with the lines you drew facing out.
Stitching
Thread your needle.
For those of you unfamiliar with sewing, you do this by feeding the thread through the eye of the needle. After
cutting off a length of thread, tie the two ends together with a large knot. This is done essentially by tying
several knots in one spot.
To start stitching, push the needle through the two pieces of fabric at the corner you drew on. Make sure the
needle comes out at the same corner on the other side. From that side, push the needle back through the
fabric a little bit down the line. Again, make sure it comes out the other side on the line. Continue like this down
the line, removing the pins as you go. This is a basic running stitch.
Make sure to double back on the first stitch of any new piece of thread to keep it anchored securely.
When you reach the end of your seam, double back once to create a loop. Feed the needle and thread through
the loop and pull it tight to anchor. For added security, do this twice before cutting off the excess thread
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Form the Legs
Use the running stitch to sew together the four sides of the leg. When you have those together, pin the top
panel in place and start stitching around the top until it's secured to all four sides.
Flip it over and pin down the last remaining piece. This time only stitch around three sides, leaving the last
seam open.
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Om nom nom
By now you should have all but one seam done on the leg. Turn it inside out through the open side.
Take a handful of Fiberfill and stuff the the leg part until it's nice and plush. Pay attention to stuff the corners so
they puff out into the desired blocky shape.
Fold in the edges of the open seam.
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The Slip Stitch
With the leg stuffed it is time to close up the last remaining seam. For this you will use a slip stitch, which is
invisible from the outside.
Start your thread from the inside the fold of one side. Go across to the other side and prick the needle in and
back out again, catching a little fabric along the edge of the fold. Go back across and do the same on the other
edge, lining up where the needle goes in with where it came out on the last fold.