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WEAVING DEPARTMENT
Linen catches the fancy of a creative mind. Its fluid look stirs the creative drive and the
crease, the poise and the harmony of Linen makes it one of the most preferred fabric by
the designers all over the world. Linen has a surprising adaptability that suits anyfashion wear.
History of Linen weaving:
The incredible fabric, Linen, is the oldest fabric woven on earth. The human civilizationreached a pinnacle of achievement when Linen was discovered. Linen has a wealth ofproperties that almost no other natural fabric can boast of. Linen symbolizes a regalelegance that defines the erstwhile royal fabric, once widely worn by the monarchs ofthe world.
The Egyptians first discovered the flax plant, from which linen was woven. AncientEgyptians believed that linen was a gift of God and regarded it as sacred.
Linen probably came to Ireland in early Christian times. It was the Irish, who popularizedlinen worldwide and St. Patrik, the patron Saint of Ireland, is said to be buried in ashroud of linen. The production of Linen continued through the Middle Ages, but it wasnot until the 17th Century that the industry started to develop in a structured way,initially under the guidance of the Earl Stafford and the Duke of Ormonde.
Although the world had seen much of linen by the 20th century, this incredible fabricwas first brought to India by Jaya Shree Textiles in the year 1949. Sourcing the raw
fibres from Belgium and France, Jaya Shree Textiles manufactures linen under thebrand of Linen Club Fabrics with the finest European technology incorporated in thespinning, weaving, and processing functions, to produce unparalleled quality ofEuropean Linen, right here in India.
Attributes of Linen:
y Moisture absorbent: Its double moisture absorption capacity than cotton makes it
the most thirsty fabric.
y UV protective: Linen protects the skin from harmful UV rays and sun allergies.
y Natural breathing: Linen is truly comfortable and easy to wear in every season. It
is insulating in winter and breathable in summer, due to its thermo regulator
properties.
y Anti bacterial: Linen is a Health Fabric because it is inherently anti-bacterial.
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Weaving at Jayashree Textiles includes both with and without dyed yarns. The weaving
department at Jayashree Textiles, Rishra, has got two sections:
y New weaving plant (48 looms)
y Old weaving plant (50 looms)
All together there are 98 looms at Jayashree Textiles. The weaving function of Linen
Club harnesses technology to make a difference in the form of advanced machineries:
y Swiss Projectile Sulzer 7200 (20 looms)
y Swiss Rapier Sulzer 6200 (78 looms)
PROCESS:
Sourcing of yarns:
The flax plant requires a climate that has adequate daylight, cool and shortnights, and weather that is both damp and warm. Such conditions exist in
Belgium, the Netherlands and France. The raw material that goes into
making Linen Club Fabrics comes from France and Belgium.
Yarns are also supplied from flax spinning department. This accounts for
about 50% of the total yarns utilized.
Warps yarns are mostly flax, while weft yarns vary depending upon the
design requirement.
Preparatory process:
1. Warping:
In general terms, warping is the process of transferring the yarns from the creel
of single end package forming a parallel sheet of yarns wound onto a beam or a
sectional beam.
Types:
y Direct warping
y Sectional warping
y Ball warping
y Draw warping
At Jayashree Textiles, sectional warping is practiced. The creel capacity here is
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In sectional warping the beam is divided
according to the requirement of ends.
Lets consider an example, that if we have
6000 ends then we divide it into 10 divisionssothat we can get 600 ends because the capacityis reed in sectional warping is 600.In sectional warping ends first wound on the
drum and then they are transferred to thesectional beam.
2. Denting:
After completing the warping processwhen the warp is ready, with the help of
a
drawing hook all the warp ends are
drawn through the dents of the reed,
generally by twos and this is called
Denting orReeding.
3. Leasing and Drumming:
Fig 1: Creeling
Fig 2: Denting
Fig 3: leasing Fig 4: leasing
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4. Beaming:
The warp is wrapped on a beam in its central position under high tension.
This iscalled beaming.
5. Drawing or Knotting:
After beaming, either drawing or knotting
takes place.
After the completion of beaming process
all the ends should be drawn out of the
reeds and then according to design theends should be drawn through the heald
eyes by one with the help of a drawing
hook. This is called drafting or drawing.
If the design to be loaded on the
machine, is the as the previous one, then,
the process includes Knotting.
Drawing is carried out using heald wire,
draw pin or
6. Gaiting:
With the help of a gaiting trolley, the new
set is loaded on to the loom. This
involves quick style change.
Fig 5: Drumming
Fig 6: yarn passes through heald eyes.
Fig 7: gaiting trolley
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7. Stroke setting:
This involves setting or adjusting the gap between the right rapied head and reed
of the loom, according to the required width of the fabric to be woven.
8. Programming:
PRS software is used for programming
purposes. Through data carrier, the design is
transferred from computer to the looms.
After the fabric is produced of the required
quantity, it is removed from the loom. This
precedes cutting, which is done manually by
the operator.
The Fabric roll is then rolled off, i.e., it is sent
to the inspection department for testing.
Color range in the machines:
y For Swiss Rapier Sulzer 6200, a range of 6 10 types of colored yarns can be
used.y For Swiss Projectile Sulzer 7200, maximum 4 colors can be used.
Machine efficiency:
The efficiency of any loom is calculated by the following formula:
(R.P.M. 60 8) / (P.P.I. 39.54) %
Production information:
y Daily production is 16000 meters on an average.
y Workers are appointed in three shifts.
y Each operator handles 4 looms.
y Atmospheric conditions: 75% humidity, dry temperature of 25 - 27C is to be
maintained within the production floor. This is to reduce yarn breakages.
Fig 8: display showing the software
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y 1st piece of any new design is of 55 meters. This is a test piece, to check, any
flaws.
y Rest all pieces are of 110 meters in length.