WAVES

WAVES Daisy Mae A. Valeroso

Wave In deep water, wave is a forward motion of energy, not water.

Water does not move with the wave.

WaveThe most common cause of the wave is wind.

The wind is the forward movement of oceans water due to the oscillation of water particles by the frictional drag of wind over the water’s surface.

Anatomy of a Wave

Wave Parts: crest- highest point

trough- valley between two waves,

lowest point

Wave Characteristics:Most ocean waves obtain their

energy and motion from the wind.The wave height is the vertical

distance between the trough and crest.

The wavelength is the horizontal distance between two successive crests or two successive troughs.

Wave Characteristics:• The wave period is the time it takes one

full wave—one wavelength—to pass a fixed position.

• Fetch is the distance that the wind has traveled across open water.

• The height, length, and period that are eventually achieved by a wave depend on three factors: wind speed, length of time the wind has blown, and fetch.

Wave MotionCircular orbital motion allows energy to move forward through the water while the individual water particles that transmit the wave move around

in a circle.

Breaking WavesChanges occur as a wave moves

onto shore.As the waves touch bottom, wave

speed decreases. The decrease in wave speed results in a decrease in wavelength and an increase in wave height.

Breaking Waves

WavesWave trains are waves travel in

groups.Wake is a small wave trains caused by

a boat’s movement .Tidal waves and tsunami are caused

by undersea earthquakes or sharp motions in the seafloor.

Swells are regular patterns of smooth rounded waves in the open sea.

Thank You for

Watching.