Vietnamese cookery - PDFDrive · VIETNAMESE COOKERY by Jill Nhu Huong Miller HERE, FOR THE FIRST TIME in English, is an absolutely authentic, definitive, and most distinctive collection

VIETNAMESECOOKERY

byJillNhuHuongMiller

HERE, FORTHE FIRSTTIME inEnglish, is an absolutely authentic, definitive, andmostdistinctivecollectionofVietnameserecipes.

Among the somewhat unusual and fascinating ingredients (available mostanywhere)aresuchsucculentsasbambooshoots,Chinesecabbage,mushrooms,water chestnuts, bean sprouts, coconut, pineapple, shrimp, and an interestingvermicellicalled"beanthreads"or"longrice."Andwhenitcomestodriedlilyflowers,Chineseparsley, freshmint leaves,andcitronella root, theauthor tellsyouwhattosubstituteifyoudonothavethem,orsimplytoleavethemout.Allthis is explained in a comprehensive ten-page glossary of special orientalfoodstuff.

The basic ingredients, of course, are pork, chicken, beef, and everydayvegetables,butcookedandseasonedwithadistinctive,pleasant,not-too-far-outflavor.Notuntilonetastes,forexample,beefstewcookedwithstickcinnamon,can one appreciate how good it is. Equally tasty is the caramelized pork, thestuffed and fried cucumbers, banana cake with cashews, and almond cookiessecondtonone.

In order to preserve the texture, the taste, and the natural color of foods,particularly vegetables, many of these recipes call for sauteing themmomentarilyoversizzlinghotheat.

The most distinctive element in Vietnamese cookery, however, is theextensiveuseofNuocMamSauceforseasoning,similartotheusemadeofsoysauceinJapaneseandChinesecookery.Likesoy,itisverysalty,butunlikesoyitenhancesandblendssosubtlywithotherflavorsthatonecanbarelydetectitspresenceandcertainlywouldneversuspectitsbeinganextractofpickledfish.Instructionsaregivenonhowtomixitandwheretoobtainthemakings.

Anotherdistinctive featureofVietnamese recipes, andparticularly those inthis book, is their adaptability to suit individual preferences.Also noteworthythroughout this book are the unusually detailed step-by-step instructions givenbytheauthor,andherconstantconcernovertheeliminationofdisagreeablefoododors.

Theauthor,JillNhuHuongMiller,anativeofVietnamwhohaslivedinallpartsofthecountry,hashadextensiveexperienceinthefieldsofnursing,homeeconomics, and dietetics. Presently she is serving the United States ArmedForces in Hawaii as a language instructor, for which she has received aCertificateofAchievementfromHeadquarters,25thInfantryDivision.

VIETNAMESECOOKERY

byJillNhuHuongMiller

CHARLESE.TUTTLECOMPANY:PUBLISHERSRutland,VermontTokyo,Japan

RepresentativesContinentalEurope:BOXERBOOKS,INC.,Zurich

BritishIsles:PRENTICE-HALLINTERNATIONAL,INC.,LondonAustralasia:BOOKWISE(AUSTRALIA)PTY.LTD.104-108SussexStreet,Sydney2000

Canada:HURTIGPUBLISHERS,Edmonton

PublishedbytheCharlesE.TuttleCompany,Inc.ofRutland,Vermont&Tokyo,Japan

witheditorialofficesatOsakiShinagawa-ku,Tokyo141-0032

CopyrightinJapan,1968,byCharlesE.TuttleCo.,Inc.

AllrightsreservedLibraryofCongressCatalogCardNo.68-13869

ISBN:978-1-4629-0958-2(ebook)Firstedition,1968Thirdprinting,1976

PRINTEDINJAPAN

CONTENTSpage

Foreword 7VietnameseCooking 8Equipment 9Ingredients 11

BASICRECIPES 21SOUPS 29PORKMAINDISHES 40BEEFMAINDISHES 57SEAFOODMAINDISHES 66CHICKEN&DUCK 77SALADS 92DESSERTS 97HORSD'OEUVRES 105

Index 113

ToTERRYTHOMPSONwithoutwhosehelp

thisbookwouldnothavebeenwritten

FOREWORDTHEINITIALIDEAformakingthedelicaciesofVietnamesecuisineavailabletotheEnglishspeakingworldthroughthemediumofahousewives'cookbookevolvedfrommanyhappymealssharedbymyselfandMrs.BerniceChangofHonolulu.Followinghersuggestion,Ibegantotrytorecallmanyofthetastydishesofmyhomeland,andattemptedtomakeasystematicrecordoftheminthefondhopethat theywouldsomedaybecompiled,edited,andpublished for thebenefitofothers who wish to explore the great variety of Southeast Asian cooking.WithoutthisoriginalstimulusandcontinuedencouragementofMrs.Chang,therecipes of this book would probably have remained in my own kitchen, andsharedonlywithmycherishedguests.

Translating the cook's activities in the kitchen into the printed word is amajor obstacle which anyonewho tries to write a cook bookmust ultimatelyface.Forthecook,theartinthekitchenusuallycomesmucheasierthanthecraftofdescribingherworkonpaper.ForaVietnamesetoattemptthisinEnglishwasalmost enough todiscourage thewhole idea.Had it not been for thepatience,dedication, and unstinted efforts ofMrs. Terry Thompson, thismajor obstaclemay never have been overcome.Only through her careful observations in thekitchen, notations, editing, and typing of the manuscript have I been able totransmitmyexperiencesinVietnamesecookerytotheEnglish-speakingreader.WithTerry,Ihavebeenprivilegedtosharepersonallymanyofthedisheswhichare described in this book. It is only through her that I am now able to sharethemwithyou.

JILLNHUHUONGMILLER

VIETNAMESECOOKINGVIETNAMESECOOKINGISEASY."EspeciallyforVietnamesehousewives,"yousay?Nonsense.Itcanalsobeeasyfornon-Vietnamesehousewives,andevenfornon-housewives.Thisbookhasfairlydetailedinstructions,withtheideathatevenabeginningcook(oronewhohasnevereveneatenorientalfood)willbeabletouse it to make some typical, simple Vietnamese dishes. There are morecomplicatedrecipes,too,forthemoreexperiencedormoreadventurouscook.

Vietnamese food has its own special character, as domost regional foods.Though it has been much influenced by Chinese cooking through manycenturies, it still retains its own individuality. Chinese and Japanese food,especially,areoftendarkerincolorbecauseoftheextensiveuseofsoysauceforseasoning. Since fish sauce is used for seasoning inVietnam, the food retainsmoreofitsnaturalcolor.

Indian,Malay, andFrenchcookinghavealsohad someslight influenceonVietnamese regional recipes, and Buddhist vegetarian cookery has been well-known there fora long time.Thecombinationmakes foranendlessvarietyofdishes,andthisbookbarelyscratchesthesurface.

Beforebeginningtocook,readthroughtherecipetobesureyouhavealltheingredients(orsubstitutes).Manyofthespecialingredientsmaybeomitted,andthoughthedishwillbedifferent,itwillnotnecessarilyberuined.Ineachsuchcasetheingredientismarked"optional."AfewtypicaldishesthatwillprobablybedifficulttoduplicateoutsideVietnamhavebeenincludedforinterest.

Mostoftheserecipesmaybepreparedwithingredientsfoundfairlyeasilyinanymetropolitan area.Themajor ingredient appearing in almost every recipe,thatwillnotbefoundoneverysupermarketshelf,isthefishsauce(Vietnamesenuocmam).That,however,willbefoundonanyChineseorPhilippinegrocer'sshelfandcanbeorderedbyanygourmetshop.Itisnotparticularlyexpensive.

ManyofthemoreexoticingredientsmaybefoundinanyChineseorotheroriental grocery store, andmanymay be ordered from a Chinese grocer in anearby metropolitan area if your town doesn't have one. Look for a Chineserestaurant and ask where to buy Chinese groceries in your area. Often theChinesegrocerwillhaveatiny,notwell-advertisedshop.Thosewhopatronizehim know where he is and he isn't in competition with the supermarket—he

usuallysellsjustthosespecialingredientsnotsoldbyotherstoresinthearea.Ifyouhaveyour list inhand,hecanbringoutwhatyouneed.Partof thefunoftryingsomeoftheserecipesistryingtotrackdownsomeoftheingredients!

Happycooking!

EQUIPMENTALMOSTNOSPECIALEQUIPMENTisneededforusewith thiscookbook.However,specific types of pans are better than others and a short description of themeaningoftermsusedintheserecipesshouldbeofusetothecook.

MortarandPestle:ThisistheonlyratherspecializedequipmentneededforVietnamesecookery.Vietnamesewomenprefer tocrush things; thisbringsouttheflavormorethanchoppingorgrinding.However,ifyoudonothaveamortarand pestle and can't get one, you may chop or grind things. The texture andflavorwillbedifferent,butnotoffensivelydifferent. (Twoexceptions:SHRIMPPASTE page 25 and FANCY BARBECUED PORK ON SKEWERS, page 42, must bepounded.) To properly use a mortar and pestle, the pestle should be heavyenoughtodoalotoftheworkforyou.Woodenpestlesarelighterinweightandeasier to lift, but it takesmoremuscle power to do a proper job. Vietnamesepestlesarenormallymadeofstone,andthemortarisalsoofstone.

Ifyouhaveamortarandpestle,orcangetone,trycrushingthingsinsmallquantities tobeginwith,untilyouget the rhythm.Useyour freehand topushthingsbackdowninthemortar,takingcarenottosmashanyfingers.

Knives:SincemuchslicingandchoppingisanessentialpartofVietnamesecooking, good sharp knives are important. Especially useful is what is oftencalledaFrenchknife.Itisaboutafootlong,includingthehandle,andthebladeisusuallyabout3 incheswideat theendnear thehandle. Ithasasharppoint.Thisknifemaybeusedforchopping,withasortofrockingmotion;it isgoodforslicing;anditmayalsobeusedforchoppingthroughchickenandotherlightbones.Itisaveryversatileknife,thoughitmaytakealittlepracticetobecomeaccustomedtoit.

Stainless steel knives do not usually have as sharp an edge and aremoredifficult to sharpen.Aplain steel knife,whichwill probably rust andbegin tolookratherdisreputable,butmaybecleanedeasilywithordinarypotscrubbers,iseasytosharpenandnotexpensivetoreplace.Itisusuallyheavier,too,whichmeansitiseasiertouseforchopping.

Smallerparingknivesarealsousefulbutnospecialkindisnecessary.

Skillets:Anironskilletisalwaysgoodforthetypeofcookingdescribedinthis book. It is heavy, does not scorch easily, and is easy to keep clean. Anygood,heavyskilletwilldo."Large"meansaskilletlargerthan10inchesacross.A"medium"skilletis8to10inchesacross.Usewhatyouhave,andexperimenttoseewhichonesworkbestforyou.

Pots:Thereareafewrecipesinthisbookcallingforaverylargesoup pot. Any type of pot will do, since it is the size that is mostimportant.Otherpotsandpansmaybeofanytype.Newandspecialvarietiesarenotnecessary.Sometimesa2-quartor3-quartpotmaybespecified—justbesureyouuseoneatleastthatbig,orthingswillboilover.Alargerpotmayalwaysbeused,thoughifonetoolargeforthejobisusedtheliquidmaycookawaytoofast.

Steamer:Ifyouhaveasteamer,useit.Ifnot,asubstitutemaybefound.Onetypeofsubstituteisaroastingpanwithacakerack(iftheroaster does not have a rack).A large skillet,with a rack and a lid,mayalsobeused.Themajorrequirementforasteameristhatthefoodbeingsteamedbesurroundedbysteam,underacoverthatfits.

Ifasteamerisused,putseveralcups(dependingonthesizeofthesteamer) ofwater in the bottom section and bring to a boil on highheat.The top sectionwill haveholes in thebottom, and the food iseitherputdirectlyonthebottom,orinaheatresistantbowlorpan,orwrapped in cloth, leaves, or aluminum foil. Such instructions arecontained in the individual recipes. When the water in the bottomsection isboiling, the topsectionwith the food is set intoplace, thecover is put on, and the steaming begins. Be sure enough waterremainsinthebottomofthesteamersothatthereisplentyofsteam.

INGREDIENTSSINCEMANYOFTHEINGREDIENTSusedinordinaryVietnamesecookingwillseemexotic to the non-oriental cook, it seemed wise to include the followingdiscussionofmanyoftheingredients.Inmanycasestherearesimplesubstitutes,andwhenaningredientisseldomfoundoutsideVietnamthesubstituteisusuallyused in the recipe. Inmany cases themore exotic ingredientsmay simply beomittedifnotavailable.

alum:Usedtomakefruitfirmwhencandying,sothefruitwillnotgetmushyordisintegrate.Followinstructionsinrecipe.

bambooshoots:AlthoughfreshbambooshootsarereadilyavailableinVietnam,cannedChinesebambooshootsareverygood.Japanesecannedbambooshootshaveadifferentflavor,intendedforJapanesefoods,anddonotblendwellwithVietnamese foods. Because of the shape of the shoot, slices will be quiteirregular.Substitute:none.

bambooshoots,dried:InVietnamfreshbambooshootsareavailablemostoftheyear.Driedbambooshootsareusuallysundried,bythehousewife,forhomeuseduring the short seasonwhen fresh ones are not available. The dried bambooshoots that are found in oriental groceries outside the orient are usually kilndriedformuchlongerstorageandconsequentlymustbesoakedandcookedforalongerperiod.Substitute:freshorcannedbambooshootsmaybesubstitutedfordriedonesinanyrecipe.Theflavorwillbeslightlydifferent.

banana:Bananas are plentiful, in numerous varieties, inVietnam.The recipesusingbananasinthisbookareforthemostordinarybananasthatareavailablethroughouttheworld.

bananaleaf:Bananaleavesareoftenusedtowrapfoodsforsteaming,becauseoftheenormoussize,thefirmtexturethatdoesnotallowtheleaftodisintegrateduringcooking, and the lackofdistinctive flavor to transfer to the foodbeingcooked.Substitutes:ti leaf isagoodsubstitute,but isnotmuchmoreavailablethan banana leaves in many parts of the world. A more readily available

substitute is a close-woven cloth, such as a tea-towel, or several layers ofcheesecloth,usuallyoiled.

beans,green:InVietnamesequick-friedfoods,greenbeansaredeliciousifusedfresh.Frozenbeansaremuchsofterwhencooked,anddonothavetheslightlycrunchytextureofthefreshbeans.Ifyouprefersofterbeans,byallmeansusefrozen ones. Canned green beans may also be used, but the flavor is lessdesirableandthetexturewillbesoftinsteadofcrunchy.GreenbeansareusuallyslicedinwhatisknowninEnglishas"Frenchcut"—whichmightalsobecalled"Vietnamesecut"!

beancurd,alsoknownasdofu in someChinesedialects and tofu in Japanese:Thisisacurdmadefromthesoybean.Itisnormallymadefresheveryday,andkeepsonlyafewdaysunderrefrigeration.Ithasverylittleflavorofitsown,butabsorbstheflavoroffoodsit iscookedwith.It issometimesavailablecanned,andwillbefoundineitherJapaneseorChinesegroceries.Substitute:none.Omitifnotavailable,andnotapartofthetitleoftherecipe.

beansauce:Chinese bean sauce is an ingredient of one or two recipes in thisbook.Itcomesinacan,andcanbeorderedfromaspecialtygrocerifnotfoundany other place. Normally sold in all Chinese groceries. Has a rather strong,distinctiveflavor.Substitute:none.Mayusuallybeomitted.

beansprouts:Theseareproducedbyimmersingdriedbeansofaspecialvarietyinwater.Thewater temperature is controlled so that thebeansputout sproutsjust as theywould if planted. They are particularly popular in the orient. Theflavorisdelicate,thoughdistinctive(pleasantlyso),andthetextureistenderbutcrunchy.Theymaybeusedtogoodeffectinatossedsalad,justastheycomeorblanchedforaminuteorso.Tokeepintherefrigerator,putintoacontainerandcover with cool water. Change the water every couple of days and they willremainfresh-tastingaboutaweek.Donotcover.Cannedbeansproutsarealsoavailable. These should be drained and rinsed thoroughly under cool runningwaterbeforeuse.Substitute:none.Maybeomittedfrommanyoftherecipes.

beanthread,oftencalled"longrice":Thisresemblesvermicelliinshape,butthetextureisquitedifferentandunlikeanyothertypeofnoodleorpasta.Itisalmostcrunchyafterbeingsoakedinwater.Itlooksmuchlikestringsofcellophane.Itis normally sold in 2-ounce packages, tied with string and covered with

cellophane.Mustbesoakedinwarmwaterbeforeusing.Substitute:none.Mayoftensimplybeomitted.

bitter melon: A small melon, with very bumpy surface much like somedecorativevarietiesofgourdorsquash. It ispalegreenandhasabitter flavor.Muchusedintheorient,itshouldnotbeusedasthemainpartofameal—alittlegoesa longway,but itdoesmakeapleasingcontrastwithanotherwiseblandmeal.Substitute:none.

borax: It took quite a search to discover the English translation of this item,whichwasfinallyfurnishedbyMr.NguyenvanHung,anArchitecturestudentattheUniversityofWashington. It isused inrinsingshrimp, toremovethefishyodor,helpcleanit,andtomakethemeatfirmer.Theshrimpmustbethoroughlywashedaftersoakingafewminutesinamildboraxsolution.

cabbage:When "cabbage" is specified in one of these recipes, ordinarywhiteheadcabbageismeant.ItmaybesubstitutedforChinesecabbage,buttheflavorwillbedifferent.It isusuallycookedonlyashort timetoavoidtheunpleasantodorthatdevelopsfromlongcontactwithheat.

cabbage,Chinese,alsoknownasbokchoy:Chinesecabbagehasbecomefairlypopular in the United States in recent years as a salad vegetable. It is alsodeliciouswhencookedforashorttimewithfreshporkorotherdelicacies.Thistypeofcabbageisleafy,notheaded,longinshape,andhascrinklededgesontheleaves. The stem portion is white, and the leaves are whitish to pale green.Substitute:ordinary head cabbagemay be substituted,with a slight change inflavor.

cabbage,mustard,alsocalledkaichoy:Mustardcabbageisnotusuallyavailablein placeswithout a large oriental population. It is similar toChinese cabbage,except thestemportionof the leaf isgreen insteadofwhite.Substitute:youngturnip greens, including tiny young turnips. The flavor will be different, butgood.

chili pepper: The small red (or green) hot pepper is used in many ways inSoutheastAsia. Itmaybe added in anydesiredquantity,when specified.ThiscollectiondoesnotincludeverymanyofthereallyhotdishesofVietnam.Itisusuallycrushed,becausethatbringsouttheflavorbetter.Itmaybeservedasa

sidedishwithalmostanyVietnamesefood.

Chinesecabbage,seecabbage,ChineseChineseparsley:Apungentherb,usedfreshasagarnishinmanyVietnamesedishes.Ithasadistinctlydifferentflavor,so there is no real substitute, thoughordinaryparsleymaybe eaten instead. Itshouldbeused inmoderation,with extra amountsoffered for individual taste,sinceafewpeoplearenotfondoftheflavorwhileotherslikealotofit.Maybeomitted,ifnotavailable.

Chinesepeas:Thisdelicacyiswidelyusedintheorient.Thepeapodisservedwhole, before the peas have begun to mature while it is still very sweet andtender.Theshape is similar to thepodofa limabeanoragreenpea,but it isextremelyflatandabout½inchwide.SomelargegrocersnowhavepackagesoffrozenChinesepeas.Substitute:Frenchcutgreenbeans.Freshbeans,cutintheFrenchfashion,aresweeterandbetter,butfrozenonesareacceptable.

Chinese sausage:A small sausage, rather sweet, made of seasoned pork andporkfat.Itmaybesteamedontopofrice,thenslicedintoangledrounds,oritmaybeslicedandfriedoraddedtonumerousotherdishes.Sinceit isdried, itmay be shipped and refrigerated, so itmay be possible to order it if it is notlocally available. There are manufacturers both in Canada and in the UnitedStates.Substitute:mild,sweetishsausagemaybesubstituted,buthotorstrong-flavored sausages will give an entirely different effect. There is no realequivalent;aswithallsausages,theuniquecombinationofflavorsisinherent.

Chinesewintermelon, seewintermelonChinese yam, also called "chop sueyyam":Thisisastarchyrootvegetable, lightbrown,witharatherflattened,fat,andscallopedshape.Substitute:kohlrabi.

cinnamon:StickcinnamonisusedfrequentlyinVietnamesesteworsoup.Ithasadifferenteffectfrompowderedcinnamon,whichmaybesubstitutedinapinch,½tsp.powderedcinnamonfor½astickofcinnamon.

citronellaroot,alsoknownas"lemongrass":Freshcitronellaisreadilyavailablein Vietnam and in Hawaii, though it may not be available outside othermetropolitan areas unless grown in the home garden. It is an attractive, foot-high,grasslikeplantthatclumpsandmultipliesrapidly.Theedibleportionisthelower part of the stem, before the grasslike leaf begins. When sliced in thin

roundsitissimilarinshapetothewhiteportionofagreenonion,thoughmuchfirmerintextureandverydifferentinflavor.Ithasapungent,pleasantodor,anda very distinctive flavor, usually well liked by foreigners as well as byVietnamese.Alsoknownas"lemongrass"insomepartsofAsia,itissometimesavailable in powdered form in metropolitan areas, usually imported fromHolland(aresultofIndonesianinfluence).Somegourmetshopswilltrytoorderthepowderedlemongrassforyou.Substitute:3thinslicesoffreshgingerroot,or onion, if so specified in the recipe. For most recipes in this book, it maysimplybeomittedifnotapartofthenameofthedish.

coconut, dried:Dried shredded, bakers' coconut may often be substituted forfreshcoconutintheserecipes,particularlyinthedesserts.Insomeoftheotherrecipesitisnotsuchasatisfactorysubstitutebecauseithasbeensweetenedandaddsasweetflavorthatdoesnotcombinewellwiththeotheringredients.

coconut,fresh:ThereareplentyoffreshcoconutsinVietnam,andmanyrecipesfor Vietnamese dishes include coconut milk or coconut water or grated (orshredded) fresh coconut. Only a sampling of these recipes is included in thisbook,sincefreshcoconutsarenotsoavailableoutsidetropicalareas.

Inbuyingfreshcoconut,besurethereisstillplentyofwaterinside:shakeitand listen. If you are able to get a really fresh coconut, you are faced withremoving the thick, football-shaped (and sized) outer husk, first. This is bestdone with an ordinary garden pick. Push one end of the pick firmly into theground,leavingthepointedendup.Pushthesideofthecoconuthuskagainstthepoint,pullingawaysidewaysatthesametime.Continueallthewayarounduntilthecoconutishusked.Theouterhuskisfilledwithatypeoffiberwhichisusedinmanypartsoftheworldtomakeaverysturdyropeorstring.

Thencomestheopeningoftheinnershell—thepartthatismostoftenseenoutside tropicalandsemitropicalareas.Thereare three"eyes"nearoneendofthe coconut. If you take a small flat stone, or a small hammer, and tap thecoconut about its middle, just under the eyes, it will crack. Continue tappingaroundthemiddle,gentlybutfirmly,anditwillbreakcleanlyinhalf.Thebreakisnotfrompointtopoint,butaroundthemiddle.

Nowtogetatthemeat.Aheavyscrewdriveristhebestimplementforthis.Asharp-pointedknifeisnotsogood—thepointoftenbreaksoffanditsimplydoesnotworkaswell.Themeatwillhaveabrownskinthatcomesofftheshell.Thisshouldbepeeledawaybeforeusingthemeat.Thejuicethatisinthemiddleofthe coconut is not, contrary to popularmisconception, the coconutmilk. It is

juice,orwater,discussedbelow.coconut juice, or coconut water:Many people think the liquid

inside the fresh coconut is the coconut milk referred to in theserecipes. Actually, the liquid rattling around inside the coconut iscoconutjuiceorcoconutwater,andissometimesusedinrecipesbutmoreoften isusedasanourishingcooldrink, justas it comes fromthecoconut.One famous recipeusing the juiceofgreencoconuts isincluded.Substitute:none.coconutmilk:The "milk" of a coconut ismade by grating fresh

coconutveryfine,thensqueezingthegratedmeat.Theliquidthatrunsoutiswhiteandmilkylooking,andisusedinmanytropicalcountriesas a basic cooking ingredient or sauce. For instructions on makingcoconut milk, see page 26. Substitute: heavy cream, about 3tablespoonscreamfor½cupcoconutmilk, since thecreamismuchoilier.cornstarch: Used in many of these recipes, cornstarch slightly

thickensjuiceorsoup.Flourmaybesubstitutedinanemergency,butthetexture,flavorandtotaleffectwillbedifferent.dried foods: see the specific name, e.g., mushrooms,

lilyflowers,shrimp,etc.eggplant:Thereisatypeofeggplantshapedmorelikeacucumber

except longer and thinner. This, if available, is preferred forVietnameserecipes.Themorecommon,fatandroundeggplantisanacceptablesubstitute.Thecolorofbothvarietiesisthesame.fishsauce,alsoknownas"fish'sgravy,"theEnglishnameusedon

bottledChinesefishsauce;andaspatis,thePhilippineversionofthesamesauce.ThisfishsauceistheVietnameseequivalentofsalt,orofsoy sauce in many other oriental recipes. It is almost clear, with aslight yellowish tint, and has a very fishy odor. When used inmoderation,asintheserecipes,itaddsasubtleandveryagreeablebitofflavor.

TheVietnamesefishsaucehasreceivedverybadpublicityinrecent

years because of thewide use of poor quality fishsauce inVietnamduringtheextendedperiodofwarandturmoil.Buygoodqualityfishsauce,whichisquiteadifferentthing.

Fish sauce is made by packing fresh fish in barrels, in layersalternating with layers of salt, and allowing the fish and salt toferment. The fermented, very salty, sauce is then drained off,processedandbottled.Secondratesauceismadebypressingthefishafterthefirstqualitysaucehasbeendrainedoff.Evenpoorerqualitysauce is made by adding water and pressing. Buy the best! It isavailableatanyChinesegrocer,since it isalsowidelyused insometypes of Chinese cooking. Itmay also be available in placeswherePhilippinefoodsaresold.Anygourmetshopshouldbeabletoorderiteasily.Substitute: none. Fish sauce is what makes Vietnamese food

uniquelyVietnamese.Additionalsaltmaybeadded,ifitisabsolutelyunavailable, but the dish will be only a substitute for Vietnamesecookery.flour:Severalvarietiesofflourareusedintherecipesinthisbook,

and unless otherwise specified regular wheat flour is called simply"flour."Riceflourandglutinousriceflourareingredientsinseveralofthehorsd'oeuvreanddessertrecipes,andwillbereadilyavailableinalmost any oriental grocery and may be found in many specialtyshops.Potatoflourhasbeenfoundtobeaveryacceptablesubstitutefor manioc (tapioca) flour, which is used in Vietnam, so has beenincludedintherecipeswhichoriginallyusedmaniocflour.

gingerroot:Freshgingerrootisawell-knownpartofallorientalcookery.Itisused for flavor, for calming down the slightly objectionable odor of boilingchicken,foranaidtothedigestion—ithasmanyusesthatareonlytoucheduponin this book. Powdered ginger is not a substitute. If fresh ginger root is notavailable,itcanbeomittedor(ifspecifiedintheparticularrecipe)greenonionmay sometimes be substituted. Dried whole ginger root, incidentally, is nowquitegenerallyavailableandcanbereconstitutedbysoakinginwarmwatertocoverforseveralhoursorovernight.

glutinousrice:seerice,glutinousgreenonion:seeonionleeks:Aleekissimilarinshapetoagreenonion,exceptitisseveraltimeslargerandstrongerinflavor.Pickled leeks, the only type used in these recipes, may be found in specialtyshopsandwillbeavailablefromalmostanyorientalgrocer.Substitute:pickledonionsthatarenottoosweet.

lemongrass,seecitronellarootlilyflowers,dried:Theseflowersareusuallysundriedintheorient.Thoseexportedforsaleinorientalgroceriesareusuallykilndried.Theflowerlookslikeapalebrownstripofroot,orofleather,from3to4incheslong.Itmustbesoakedinwarmwater10to15minutestosoften,thenthehardstem-endshouldbepinchedoffanddiscarded.Insomerecipestheflowerswillbechopped,butoftenyouwillbetoldtotieeachflowerinaknot.Theknotmakesaslightcrunchwheneaten,givingvariationtothetextureofthedish.Theflavor is very mild and pleasant. Substitute: none. May be omitted withoutseriousresults,unless"lilyflowers"occursinthenameofthedish.

longrice,seebeanthreadandnoodles(pymeifun)lookfun,seenoodles, lookfunlotusroot:Thisorientalstaplefoodisamild-flavoredrootvegetablerelatedto the tubers. It is long and rather fat, about the size of a toy baseball bat orsmaller, with a light, brownish-white color. It has holes running from top tobottominside,sothatwhenit isslicedinroundsit lookssomethinglikeSwisscheese. Only one recipe using lotus root is included in this book. Substitute:none.

mint:FreshmintleavesmaybeusedasagarnishwithmostVietnamesefoods,orasasidedishorsaladwithleaflettuceandChineseparsley.InVietnamthereare several varieties of mint, but any fresh mint adds a sparkle to the meal.Especiallygoodinagreentossedsalad.

monosodium glutamate:Often called "taste powder," and also sold under theJapanesenameofAji-no-moto,thiscondiment isusedsparingly insomeof therecipes.

mushrooms, dried:Dried mushrooms have quite a different taste from freshones,andareused inmuchorientalcookery.Thismakes themeasilyavailablefromspecialtyshopsandorientalgroceries.Theordinarydriedmushroomsarefairly large, from 2 to 4 or more inches across. There are also what aresometimescalled"perfumedmushrooms"whicharenotusedintheserecipes.

Driedmushroomsmustbesoakedfor10minutesorsoinwarmwaterbeforeusing.Thehardpartofthestemisthencutaway,andisoftendiscardedthoughitmay be added to long-cooking soup or stew for flavor. Since the size variesconsiderably, the quantity called for in these recipes is only approximate.Because mushrooms have a delicate flavor, the quantity may be variedconsiderablywithnodisservicetothedish.Andsincetheflavorispleasant,andmushroomshavelittlecaloricvalue,dietersmightconsidertheiruseforvariety.Substitute:freshmushroomsmaybesubstituted,thoughtheflavorandtextureisquitedifferent.Maybeomitted,unless"mushroom"isapartofthenameoftherecipe.

mushrooms,fresh:Whenfreshmushroomsarecalledfor,thebesttypetouseisthelarge,brownvariety.Thesmallerbuttonmushroomsmaybesubstituted,andmay be specified in some recipes. In some recipes canned buttonmushroomsmay be substituted. Japanese canned mushrooms have the wrong flavor, onemeant for combination with Japanese seasonings, and should not be used intheserecipes.

mushrooms, straw: "Straw" mushrooms are a delicacy usually found only inChinesegroceries.Verydelicate flavor, slightly larger thanbuttonmushrooms.Substitute:fresh(notcanned)buttonmushrooms.

ngun si fun, see noodles no mai, see rice, glutinous noodles, look fun (theChinese name): These are rice noodles, and in places with a large Chinesepopulationyoumaybeabletofindthefreshones.Ifso,byallmeanstrythem.Infact,trythemfresh,warmedinasteamerandslicedinhalf-inchwidestrips,dippedinNUOCMAMSAUCE(page23),withalittlelettuceorothergreensalad,Delicious! The substitution of dried noodles for fresh ones is similar to thesubstitutionofpowderedmilkforfreshmilk.Good,butnotthesame.

These noodles are available dried, in packages, but be careful about theinstructions printed on the package. Somemanufacturers print poor or wronginstructions!Soakthedriednoodlesatleasttwohours,inwarmwatertocover.Thenboilabout5minutes,oruntiltenderallthewaythrough.Drain,sliceinto½or¼inchstripsorasdirectedintherecipe.Ifboiledtoolong,thenoodleswilldisintegrate.Substitute:wide egg,wheat, or other noodles. The flavorwill bedifferent,buttheideawillbesimilar.

noodles, pymeifun (orngun si fun) (Chinese rice sticks): These are very fine,

extremely delicate and tender rice noodles. They are packed in thumb-sizedbundleseachtiedwithstring.Aftersoakingforafewminutes,thestringmaybeuntiedgently.Thensoakanadditional15minutesorso.Bringjusttotheboilingpoint and drain immediately. These noodles disintegrate easily into rice-grainsizedpieces.AvailableatanyChinesegrocery.Substitute:none.

noodles,shahofun(Chinese):Followtheinstructionsgivenundernoodles,lookfun.

noodles,somen (Japanesename):A typeof Japanesewheat noodles, very thinandfine.Substitute:finevermicelli.

onion:Useeitherwhiteoryellowbulb-shapedcookingonionswhen"onion"iscalledfor.Maysometimesbesubstitutedforgreenonionorforshallot,butwithslightlychangedflavor.

onion,green:Greenonionisusedinmanyoftheserecipes.Usepartofthegreenfopportion, too, for color aswell as flavor.Thegreen top isoftenusedwhenboiling chicken, shrimp or pork to counteract the slightly offensive odor.Substitute:white or yellowcookingonion, or shallots,with a slight change inflavor.

papaya: A favorite fruit in most tropical areas, there are many varieties inVietnam.Itisgoodservedripe,withawedgeoflemonorlime.Whengreen,itisveryfirmandabrightdarkgreenincolor.Itturnsgoldasitripensandbeginstogetslightlylessfirm.Substitute:none.

peanuts:Unlessotherwisespecified,regularsalted,roastedpeanutsmaybeusedin these recipes.Chopped peanuts are often used as a garnish. If chopped, besuretousethe"dust"also,sincemuchofthegoodflavorandodoristhere.

pineapple:Freshpineappleiscalledforinseveraloftheserecipes,andisoftenused in cooking as a vegetable in Vietnam. As a result, sweetened cannedpineappleisnotaverysatisfactorysubstitute.Unsweetenedcannedpineappleisavailableinsomespecialtyshops,andmaybesubstituted.

pymeifun,seenoodlesrice:Theusuallong-grainriceisnotusedtoooftenintheorient—itisconsideredquitealuxury.Italsohaslessflavor,becauseithasbeen

refinedsomuch.Ifyoucanshopatanorientalgrocery,askforordinaryriceorshort-grainrice—itismuchshorterinprice,usually,too!MuchofitisgrowninCalifornia.Longgrainricemaybeused,butitishardertoeatwithchopsticks.Instantriceisnotreallyacceptable.

rice,glutinous,alsocallednomai:This is a special kindof rice, used inveryspecialdishes.Itisavailableinorientalgroceries.Substitute:none.

rice,roasted:Toast regular rice in a small covered skillet on topof the stove,shakingconstantly,untildarkbrown,beingcarefulnottoburnit.Maybestored,but it is only used in one recipe in this book so just toast the small amountneeded.

rice flour:Thereare severalkindsof rice flour,mostofwhichwillbe readilyavailableatanorientalgroceryandprobablyatmanyspecialtyshops.Therearea few recipes for hors d'oeuvres and desserts calling for rice flour and thespecifictypewillbedescribedintherecipe.Substitute:none.

rice paper: A very special Vietnamese food, with no real substitute exceptperhapstheGreekphilo.Itisatissue-paperthinroundsheetofdriedricepaste,which is sturdy enough to be used for wrapping things in a roll after it isdampened and softened with water. It is very popular in Vietnam, but is notordinarily available outside that country. Substitute: none. Leaf lettuce orcabbageleavescanbeusedinsomecasesaswrappers,buttheflavorandtexturewillnotbethesame.

ricewine:UseChinesericewine,drysherryordrysauterne.Rumorbrandyinsmallerquantitymayalsobesubstituted.Japanesericewine—sake—istoomild.

saffron:Thisiswhatgivesthewarm,goldencolortocurry.Itisalsousedasadye. The root of the saffron plant is dried, and crushed just before using, inVietnam. Powdered saffron loses its strength easily, especially if exposed tolight. Sometimes the addition of a pinch or two of paprika will help give awarmercolor.Saffronalsohasadelicateflavor.Substitute:insomerecipes,thesubstitutionofcurrypowderisrecommended.Otherwise,omitifnotavailable.

sausage,seeChinesesausagesesameseeds:ArealmustasagarnishformanyVietnamese dishes, these tiny seedsmust be roasted and crushed a short time

before using.To roast, use a small panwith a cover; the seedswill jump likepopcornwhen they get hot, though they don't puff up. Put overmediumhighheat and shake occasionally.Watch closely to be sure they don't burn.Whenbeginningtoturnalightgoldenbrownremovefromtheheatandputinanothercontainerimmediatelytostoptheroastingprocess.Partiallycrushtheseedswitha mortar and pestle to bring out the aroma and flavor, just before using. Awonderfuladditiontotossedsalads.

shahofun,seenoodlesshallots:Thesearemuchused inVietnamesecooking.Whennotavailable,substitutethewhitepartofagreenonion.

shrimp,dried:Tinyshrimparekilndriedforuseasaflavoringinmanyorientalrecipes.Thesmallertheshrimp,thegreaterthedelicacy.Whencalledforinthisbook, they are always optional since non-oriental palates often find both theflavor and the odor objectionable. If you want to try them, try a very smallquantity (smaller than called for in the recipe) at first. If you like them, addmore!Theshrimpareusuallysoaked10minutesormoreinwarmwaterbeforebeing added to the dish being cooked. Sometimes they are chopped aftersoaking.Thesoakingwaterisoftenaddedtosoups.Substitute:freshshrimp;ora dash of monosodium glutamate. The shrimp has the same effect asmonosodium glutamate of heightening the flavor of other foods, as well ashavingadecidedflavorofitsown.

shrimpsauce(Chineseharmha):Tobefound inorientalgroceries; there isnorealsubstitute.Maybeomitted,unlessspecificallytoldnottoomitintherecipe.It has many of the same properties of dried shrimp. Substitute: a pinch ofmonosodiumglutamateand½teaspoonsaltforeachteaspoonofshrimpsauce,toheightentheflavor,oneofthereasonsforusingshrimpsauce.

somen, see noodles soybean curd, see bean curd squash, see kwa: Chinesesquash,Substitute:zucchinisquash.

squid:A type of seafood, related to octopus, with small tentacles. Substitute:none.

starfruitalsocalledstarappleorcarambole:Akindof fruit, sometimesfoundasanornamentalplantinprivategardens.Whenslicedacross, thefruithastheshapeofastar.Substitute:norealsubstitute,althoughinPORK-RINDSALAD(page

95),alime-soakedcucumbersubstituteisgiven.

tileaf(pronounced"tea"):Sometimesusedtowrapfoodsortolinethetopofthesteamer. Substitute:Banana leaf, or oiled, firmly woven cloth, such as a teatowel.tomato:Unlessbeingusedasashowpiece,asinSTUFFEDTOMATOESpage51, lowergrade,cheapercooking tomatoesmaybeused. If fresh tomatoesareoutofseason,well-drainedcanned tomatoesmaybesubstitutedwith theusualdeteriorationofflavor.

tomato paste:Use Spanish style tomato paste, if available. The seasoning ismorecompatiblewithVietnameseseasoningsthanistheItalianstyle.

tree fungus, dried:Dried tree fungus resembles thin, black dried mushrooms.Theymustbesoaked inhotwater, from15minutes toanhour, tobesoftened(dependingontherecipe).Anyblackspecksorstemportions,wherethefungusgrewon the tree, shouldbe cut away.This staple canusuallybe foundat anyChinese grocery, and if not available may be omitted without disaster to therecipeunlessitisspecificallyapartofthenameofthedish.Ithaslittleflavor,butaveryunusualcrisp,chewytexturethatmakesapleasantcontrast.

waterchestnuts:A root vegetable,with a very crisp texture, and a verymild,slightlysweetflavor.Freshwaterchestnuts(aboutthesizeofwalnuts)mustbepeeled before using; canned onesmay be used direct from the can.Deliciouswhen added to a tossed salad. Substitute: none. Canned water chestnuts arewidelydistributednow.

wine, see rice winewinter melon:A very tender-meated variety of gourd orsquash. Substitute:butternut squash. Use a smaller quantity and cook 1 or 2minuteslonger.

yam,seeChineseyam

BASICRECIPESTHEREAREAFEWrecipesthatdonotfitintoanyoftheotherchaptersandthatarebasictoVietnamesecooking.Thesehavebeengatheredintothischapter.

COOKEDRICE FourservingsIfyouhaveanautomatic,electricricecooker,followthesimpledirectionsthatcomewithit.Ifyoudonothaveone,andhaveneverlearnedtocookriceintheorientalway,besure to try thisrecipe.It isquickandverysimple.Notice thatthereisnosaltorotherseasoningadded.Whencookedthisway,thericehasagentlebutverynice flavorof itsown. In theorient, rice isnotnormallyeatenalone,buthassomethingputontopofit.Thethingsyouservewithit,usuallyplacedontopofthericeinaricebowlforeachindividual,willgivethericealltheseasoningitneeds.Minutericeisinadifferentcategory;don'tbothertotryitwiththisrecipe.Heavy4-qt.potwithlid2cupsrice1½cupscoolwater

Wash the rice2or3 times incool tapwater, changingthe water each time and rubbing gently between thehands. The last water should be fairly clear. This willremovemuchof the starch covering the outside of therice and will keep it from being too sticky. If highlyrefinedriceisuseditwillneedlessrinsingandrubbing.Putthericeinaheavypotandaddwater.Coverthepotandplaceonhighheatuntilitboils.Watchcarefullytobe sure it doesn't boil over. Cook, covered, over highheat about 5minutes. Lift the lid, and if you can't seemuch, or any,water over the top of the rice, and littleholesappear ininthesurface,removeitfromtheheat.Leave the high heat turned on, so itwill be really hotwhen you return the rice to the burner. Drain the

remainingwaterofftherice,andreturnittotheburner.Cover,andturnheattothelowestsetting.Letthericesitontheheat,covered,from20to30minutes.Resist thetemptation to uncover it and peek—that lets the steamescapeandthericemayendupbeingtoohard.Donotstiratallafter itbeginstocook,oritwillprobablygetmushy.Thericeshouldbesoft,butfirm,andthegrainsshouldsticktogetherenoughtobepickedupcomfortablywithchopsticks.Western-style cooked rice, with each grainfluffyanddeterminedlyseparate,isveryhardtoeatwithchopsticks.If you find that the rice in the very botton is slightlystuck to thepot, andslightlyhard,cherish it!This isadelicacy. Eat it with any juice from meat dishes, etc.Vietnamesechildrenbegforit.

POTROASTEDRICE FourservingsThisrecipeforriceresultsinatruedelicacy,theVietnameseversionofatypeofricecookedinmanypartsofAsiaandtheNearEast.TheVietnameseoftenuseporkfatorcookingoilinsteadofbutter.Buttergivesadelicateflavorthatisverypleasant,but theotherwaysofcookingarealsoverygood.This isgoodeatenalone,orwithNUOCMAMSAUCE (page23).It isusuallycookedtoaccompanyTOMATO-FRIEDCHICKEN(page81),butyouwillfinditisgoodwithalmostanymain dish. It is also the basic ingredient for a simple home-style meal ofleftovers as described in the recipe on page 85 for MANY-COLORED CHICKENFRIEDRICE.2cupsrice

Wash the rice thoroughly, then drain in a strainer orcolanderuntilalmostcompletelydryagain.

2tbsp.butter(orporkfatorcookingoil)Heavyskillet

Melt thebutter in theskilletonmediumheat.Addriceandsaute,stirringgentlywithaspatulaoraspoon,for

about15minutesonmediumormediumhighheat.Therice will begin to change color, the individual grainsbecomingwhiterandmoreopaqueandthepanfulofricebeginning to take on a faint golden tinge from adistance.Somegrainsofricewillbegintoturnagoldenbrownaroundtheedges.

1¾cupshotwaterHeavypotwithlid

Pourthericeintotheheavypot,andaddabout1¾cupswater.Thewater shouldcover the ricecompletely,andstandabovethelevelofthericeabout¼inch.Coverthepot,turnonhighheat.Ifitboilsover,removefromtheheat;yourpotisnotbigenoughornotheavyenough,orperhaps both! After about 4 or 5 minutes, check thewater,whichshouldnolongerbevisible.Stirricewithchopsticks,orafork,gently,fromthebottomup,tofluffit. Do not stir verymuch. Cover the pot, and turn theheattolow.Continuetocookabout15or20minutes,oruntil done. The rice should be tender, butmay still beslightly chewy and will stick together enough to beeaten with chopsticks. Individual tastes differ. Somepeopleprefersofterrice,andwillneedtoaddanother¼cupofwater.Otherspreferadryerrice,andmayadd¼cup less water. Keep warm until served. It may besteamedtoreheatasaleftover.

TOSERVEServeasregularsteamedorboiledrice,butplantoservemoreperperson!

TEAMakingteaiseasy.Anykindofteaisallright,butChineseteaorjasmineteaispreferable. Tea is not sweetened, creamed, or lemoned in Vietnam—unless"foreign" tea isbeing served. It is often servedwarmor cool, sometimeswithice,inalargeglass.Whenservedhot,especiallytoaguest,acupisused.TeapotHotwater

Useanysizeteapot.Experimentationwillshowyouthesizeyouneed.Adeodorizedcoffeepotmaybeusedforlargerquantities.Pourhotwaterintothepotandletitsitforafewminutes,towarmthepot.Discardthewater.

1tbsp.tealeaves1qt.boilingwater

Put the tea leaves in the bottom of the pot. Pour theboilingwaterovertheleavesandletitsteepforabout5minutes.Pouroutintoglasses,andlettheteacooloffintheglassuntil it iseasy tohold in thehand.Or if icedteaispreferred,addicewhentheteahascooledoff.Additional tea may be made by pouring more boilingwater over the same tea leaves, letting it steep slightlylonger,butdonotstirit.

NUOCMAMSAUCENuoc mam is to Vietnamese cooking what salt is to cooking in the Westernworld. And the prepared nuoc mam sauce is a basic seasoning for numerousdishes.Thequantitygivenhereissmall,enoughforoneortwomealsforthosewhoarejustexperimenting.Forthosewholiketheflavor,allquantitiesmaybemultipliedbyfour,orten,orwhatevernumberisdesired.Don'tbelieveallyouhear about nuoc mam—it is delicious when prepared correctly and used inmoderation.Mortarandpestle(Page9)3¼-inchpiecesfreshhotchilipepper1garlicclove1tsp.sugar½mediumlime1tbsp.vinegar1tbsp.water4tbsp.fishsauce

Seed the chili pepper. If youarenot surehowhotyouwantthis,startwithaverylittle.Itiseasytoaddmore.Peel the garlic clove. Crush the pepper and garlic

together in amortar with the sugar. Peel and seed thelimeandmashthepulpinthemortarwiththegarlicandpepper.Addvinegarandwatertopulpmixtureandmixwell.Addthefishsauce(plainnuocmam)last. If it isaddedbeforeotheringredientsthepiecesofgarlic,pepper,andlime pulp will all sink to the bottom, and it is muchpreferabletohavetheminsuspensionorfloatingontop.Thissaucecanbeusedassoonasitismixed,butitcanalsobekeptfortwoorthreemonthsintherefrigerator.Storeinatightlyclosedbottleorjar.

BOILEDPORKBuyfreshhamforboiling,sinceithaslessfat.Agoodleanpieceisbest.Agreenonionwillcounteracttheslightodorofboilingpork.1lb.leanporkWatertocoverDeeppotwithlid1greenonion

Put the pork in the pot, and cover with water. Put onhighheat.Crush the greenonion and add to the pork.Bring to aboilonhighheat,coverandreduceheattomediumlow.Simmeruntildone(about20or30minutes).Becarefulnottoovercook.Drainoffthebrothanduseforsouporinotherrecipes.Chill theporkanduse asdirected in recipes. It canbeslicedthinandusedassandwichmeat.Note that no seasoning, other than the green onion, isused.

BOILEDSHRIMPBuywhite shrimp,preferably fresh in theshell. If it isboiledafter theshell isremoveditwillcurlandtoomuchoftheflavorwillbelost.Whiteshrimphasamuchgentlerflavor thanpinkorredshrimp,andisespeciallypreferable if the

shrimparenotvery,veryfresh.Deeppot2cupswater1greenonion

Crushthegreenonionandputinthepotwiththewater.Bringtoaboilonhighheat.Theonionwilldiminishthestrongfishyflavorandodoroftheshrimp.

1lb.(orless)fresh(frozen)whiteshrimpintheshell

Put the shrimp into the boiling water, bring to a boilagain andboil for only3or 4minutes.Donot defrostfrozenshrimpbeforeusingthem.Drain shrimp immediately. Reserve the juice forseasoning or for soup. Cool the shrimp and use asdirected in recipes. Note that no seasoning, other thanthegreenonion,isused.

BOILEDCHICKENUseafryingchickensothemeatwillbetenderandjuicy.Useawholechicken,cutitinhalf,oruseready-cutpieces.1fryingchickenDeeppotwithcoverWatertocover

Wash thechicken,put in thepotandcoverwithwater.Putononhighheat.

1greenonion2slicesfreshgingerroot(optional)

Crush theonionandadd,with thefreshginger root, tothepot.Thesetwothingswillcounteracttheodorofthechicken.

Bring to a boil on high heat, then reduce the heat tomedium low, cover, and simmer until the chicken istender (about 20 minutes). Poke with a fork: if pink

juice comes out, cook a little longer.Be careful not toovercookoritwilllosetoomuchflavor.Drainoffthebrothandsaveforsoup.Takethechickenoffthebonesanduseasdirectedinrecipes.Notethatnosaltorseasoningother thantheonionandgingerisused.

SHRIMPPASTEThis is the basic element for several recipes. It ismade in amortar of heavymarble,stoneorwood(page9),andispoundedwithapestleofheavywoodorof stone.Asmall sizemortar isuseful,butmakes itdifficult tomix theentirerecipeatonetime.It isimportanttofollowthestepsexactlyasgiven,inorderthattheflavorwillbethebest.1lb.fresh(frozen)whiteshrimp2cupscoldwater1tsp.borax

Dissolvetheboraxinwaterinabowl.Shellanddeveintheshrimpandputintothebowlofwater,mixwellwiththehandsandletstandabout5minutes.Thiscleanstheshrimp,calmsthefishyodor,andmakesthemeatfirmer.Remove shrimp to a colander and rinse very verythoroughlyunderrunningcoldwater,squeezingwiththehands, for about three minutes. The shrimp should berinsed until it is no longer slippery to the touch. Thensqueeze the shrimpwith thehandsuntil it isno longerdrippy.

MortarandpestlePlaceshrimpinthemortarandbegintopoundwiththepestle. Pound until the shrimp begins to get soft andpulpy.

1heapingtbsp.freshporkfat(or2tbsp.cookingoil)

Fat trimmed frompork chops, pork roast, etc.,maybe

used.Chill the fat, so itwill be easy to slice.Cut intosmall pieces. Add to the shrimp in the mortar andcontinuetopounduntilitismixedin.

1lump(½-tsp.size)rocksugar

Putthelumpofrocksugarinthemortarwiththeshrimpandpoundandcrushuntilitisthoroughlymixed.Donotsubstituteregularsugar—itistoosweet.Ifrocksugarisnotavailable(trythedruggist),omit.

1shallot(orwhitepartofgreenonion)

Removeouterskinandsliceinverythinrounds.Addtothemixtureinthemortarandpoundwell.

1heapingtbsp.freshporkporkfat(or2tbsp.cookingoil)

Chillandslicethissecondtbsp.ofporkfat.Addtothepasteinthemortarandpoundwell.

1eggwhitePut eggwhite intomortarwith paste andmix inwell.Keeptheyolkforuseelsewhere.

1tbsp.fishsauceMixintotheshrimppasteinthemortar,asmallamountatatime.

Dashofblackpepper

Sprinkleontopofthemixtureinthemortarandmixinwell.Thisisthebasicshrimppasterecipecalledforinseveralrecipesinthisbook,whichappearonpages32,105,and106.

FISHPASTE

Thisisthebasicingredientforseveralrecipesfoundinthiscookbook.Itshowsupinsoup,steamed,fried,andspreadonbread.Thefishmustbeawhitefish,withverysoftmeat.Ladyfishisconsideredverygoodforthispurpose,butperchorbassmayalsobeused.2lb.ladyfish(substitute:perchorbass)

Splitthefishopenfromheadtotail.Withaspoonoraknife,scrape themeat fromthebonesandskin.Scrapelightly,gently,asmallareaatatime.Takeyourtime.Itshouldmakeasoft,paste-likemass.Note:Ifusingbassorperch,itwillbenecessarytochoporgrindthemeatafter it is removed from thebonesandskin.Place inamixingbowl.

3tbsp.fishsauce3tbsp.water1tbsp.cornstarch¼tsp.salt¼tsp.blackpepper

Mix the fish sauce, water, cornstarch, salt and blackpepper together until smooth. Add to the fish paste, asmall amount at a time, kneading it inwith the hands.Knead and mix well, picking out any stray bones orpieces of skin.Wet your hands occasionallywith coldwatersothefishpastewon'tstick.Note:Ifyouusebass,addanothertbsp.ofcornstarch.

1eggwhiteReserve the egg yolk for later use in one of thevariationsonthisrecipe,orinotherrecipes.Mixtheeggwhite into the fish paste, squeezing and kneadingwiththe hands, until the paste begins to stick together andformasmoothball.

1tbsp.cookingoilAddasmallamountofcookingoilatatimeandkneaditintothepastethoroughly.

2mediumshallots(orwhite

partofgreenonion)Slice the shallots in thin rounds and add to the paste,kneading and mixing well. The paste should havebecomequitefirm,likedough.

3tbsp.porkfat(substitute:4tbsp.cookingoil)

Chilltheporkfat,soitwillbeeasiertocut.Usethefattrimmingsfromporkchops,porkroast,etc.Chopthefatcoarsely, and add it to the paste. Knead and mixthoroughly.Recipesusingthisbasicpastearetobefoundonpages32,107,and108.

COCONUTMILKCoconutmilkisoneofthemainingredientsforcurryinSoutheastAsia,andisusedinmanyotherdishes.The"milk"isnotthewaterysubstancethatisfoundin the center of a fresh coconut,which is called "coconutwater," or "coconutjuice."Themilkismadebygratingveryfreshcoconutandsqueezingthegratedpulp. If you have a blender, you can make a most satisfactory substitute byfollowingtheinstructionsbelow.1medium-sizefreshcoconut

Openthecoconutbyhittingit"betweentheeyes"onafine,butvisiblelinethatrunsaroundthecoconut.Takeout themeat, and peel off the brown portion. Slice infairly finepieces,andput into theblender.Tryusingascrewdrivertoremovethemeat:don'tuseaknifewithasharppointforitmightbreakoff.

2cupswarmwaterAddwarmwater,andturntheblenderonlowspeedfor1minute.Then turnonhigh speed for2or3minutes.Strain throughacloth, twisting thecloth tosqueezeallthemilkout.Storeinrefrigerator,anduseinrecipesasdirected.Stirbeforeusing.Itwillkeepintherefrigeratoraboutaweekortendays.

NUOCLEOSAUCEThis unusual sauce is used as a dip for several different types of Vietnamesefoods. It is very good with BARBECUED PORK (page 42), and with the SALAD"SANDWICHES"(page96).Ifyoudon'tliveinalargecity,youmayhavetoordertheChinesebeansauce,butitisworththetrouble.½cupglutinousrice3cupswaterHeavypot

Put the glutinous rice into a heavy potwith thewater,bringtoaboilonhighheatthenreducetheheattolow.Cook, uncovered, until the water is all gone. Stiroccasionally.Setaside.

Mediumsizeheavyskillet2tbsp.cookingoil3clovesgarlic½lb.groundpork

Crushthegarlicthoroughly.Preheattheoilonhighheat,then drop in the garlic. When the garlic gives out itsodor, add the ground pork and reduce the heat tomedium. Saute about 2 or 3 minutes, stirringoccasionally.

8-oz.canChinesebeansauce(page12)

Add the Chinese bean sauce, stir well, until smooth.Cookanotherminute.

1can(1½cups)chickenbroth3tbsp.sugar

Addthechickenbrothandsugarandstirwell.Continuetocookforanotherminute.BrothfromCOOKEDSHRIMPorBOILEDPORK,pages24and23,maybesubstitutedforthechickenbroth.Addthecookedriceandcontinuetocookonmediumheatanother5minutes.

1cuproastedpeanuts(notsaltedones)

Crush the peanuts coarsely and add, including all the"dust."Stirwellandcontinuetocookanother5minutes.If the sauce is too thick (experience will tell, but itshould be about the consistency of oatmeal or othercooked cereal), add more chicken broth. It can befrozen, in largeor smallquantities. If frozen, thawandheatbeforeserving.Servewarmorcold.

CARAMELIZEDSUGARThisisabasicingredientfornumerousVietnameserecipes,thoughusedinverysmallquantity.Youmayfindyourselfreachingforittouseinotherrecipes,too,onceyouhavetriedit.Forinstance,asatoppingforicecream,vanillapudding,oreggcustard.2tbsp.brownsugarSmallsaucepan1tsp.water3tbsp.water

Heatthebrownsugaronlowheatwith1tsp.wateruntilitdissolvesandbecomeslikecaramel.Itwillchangetoamuchdarkerbrown.Stirandshakepanoccasionally.Addthisadditionalwater,stiruntilboiling,andremovefrom heat. Pour into jar or other container that can betightly closed for storage. Can be stored in therefrigerator,ifdesired.

ONIONOILThis onion-flavored oil is used as a garnish inmanyVietnamese recipes. It isquickandeasytomake,andyouwillprobablyfindmanyotherusesforit.Theflavorismuchmoredelicatethanthatofgreenonionssauteedinoil.Medium-sizedskillet3tbsp.cookingoil

2or3greenonionsHeat-resistantbowl

Chopthegreenonions,topsandall,andplaceinaheatresistant bowl. Heat the cooking oil until hot, but notsmoking, and pour over the onions. This gives quite adifferentflavorfromfriedonions.Leftoveronionoilcanbereservedforlateruse.Theoilwillkeepforseveraldays.

SOUPSSOUPISONEOFTHEBASICITEMSofaVietnamesemeal,andiioftenthecompletemeal. There is an infinite number of soups that can be made by variouscombinations of the ingredients found in the sample recipes givenhere.Othersoupsmaybefoundinthechaptersdealingwithmaindishes,usuallywithSOUP-SALADinthetitle.

InVietnam,soupisusuallyeatenoverrice,alongwiththerestofthemeal.Itisused for the liquid inplaceofdrinkingwateror tea.Tea isnormallyservedtowardtheendoforafterthemealisfinished.

Mostsoupsareservedwithasidedishoffishsauce(page15)forindividualseasoning to taste. If the soup is not salty enough, more fish sauce is addedrather than salt. Chinese parsley and wedges of lemon or lime are also oftenservedasgarnishforsoup.

PORKANDBEANCURDSOUP FourservingsThisisaheartysoup,andisagoodsimplemealservedwithriceandasalad.Itmayalsobeservedasanaccompaniment toa largermeal. Inarestaurant, thisrecipemighthaveanothersixcupsofwateraddedandbesoupforten.2tbsp.tinydriedshrimpColdwatertocover

Place shrimp in smallbowlandcoverwithcoldwater.Let soak for ten minutes, or more if convenient.(Optional: substitute a dashofmonosodiumglutamate,ifdesired.)

½blockbeancurd(about3by3by6inches)1tbsp.cookingoilMedium-sizedskillet

Cuttheblockofbeancurdinhalflengthwise.Blotitdry

withapapertowel,squeezinglightlybetweenthehands.Thiskeepsitfrompoppingwhenitisfried.Heattheoilinamediumskillet,onmediumheat.Frybeancurdonitstwowidestsides,about2minutesoneachside,usingmediumheat.Thismakesitfirm.Cutcrosswiseinto¼-inchpieces,about1x3inches.

4quartpot1tbsp.cookingoil1greenonion½lb.groundpork½tsp.salt

Cutgreenonionin¼-inchpieces.Mixhalfofitwiththeporkandsalt,reservingotherhalffornextstep.Heattheoilinthepot.Usingmediumheat,sautetheonion,salt,and pork until pork changes color (about 3 minutes),stirringconstantly.

2largetomatoesChop tomatoes coarsely. Add to pork mixture andcontinue to saute for about one minute or less. Stiroccasionally. Add the soaked dried shrimp. Sauteanotherminuteorless.

3cupswaterAddwatertotheporkmixtureandcontinuetocookonmediumheatuntilitboils.Addtheslicedbeancurd,andbringtoasimmer.

1tbsp.fishsauceAddthefishsauceandbringjusttoaboil.

1eggStireggjustuntilmixed.Pourintosoupandstirseveraltimes, using a circular motion in the same direction.Thismakes strings of cooked egg in the soup. Let thesoup simmer 1 or 2minutes.Don't let it boil after theeggisadded.

About20chives(optional)

Cut chives in 2-inch sections and add. Remove soup

fromheatimmediately.TOSERVE

Serve hot. (Can be reheated, but is best servedimmediately after cooking.) This can be used as asimplesoup,but isusuallyservedoverricewithasidedish of plain fish sauce to be added to the individual'staste. Leaf lettuce or other salad is an excellentaccompaniment.

LOTUSROOTANDSHORTRIBSOUP FourservingsThissubtly-flavoredsoupisappealinginflavor,andinterestingtolookat.Thelotusrootwithitsmanyholeslookslikeround,graySwisscheese!Theflavorissomethinglikepotato,butitiscrispandcrunchy.1½lb.porkshortribs

Scrapeasyouwouldacarrot.Sliceinthinrounds,about¼inchthick.

1lb.porkshortribs(lean)2shallots(orwhitepartofgreenonion)

Cutshortribsintosmallservingpieces.Sliceshallotsinthinrounds.

Souppotwithcover5cupswater¼tsp.salt

Putwater,shallot,salt,shortribs,andlotusrootinsouppot. Bring to a boil on high heat, reduce the heat tomedium low, cover, and simmer for 2 hours. Thereshould still be about 2 cups of liquid remaining in thepot.

1tbsp.fishsauceAddfishsauce,stirwell,andtaste.Addmorefishsauceifnotsaltyenough.Removefromheat.

TOSERVE

Servehot,withrice.Maybereheatedseveraltimes.

SHORTRIBSWITHWINTERMELONSOUP Sixservings2lb.Chinesewintermelon(substitute:butternutsquashypage20)

Peel the winter melon, and cut away the soft, pithycenter portionwith the seeds.Discard peel and center.Cutthefirmwhitesectionofthemelonintostripsabout2incheswide,thelengthofthepieceofmelon.Thencutthestripsintosmallstripsacross,makingpiecesthatarelargebitesize.

1lb.shortribs(lean)2shallots(orwhitepartofgreenonion)5cupswater¼tsp.saltSouppotwithcover

Cutshortribsintosmallservingpieces.Slicetheshallotsinto thin rounds.Putwater, salt, shallots, and shortribsintothesouppot.Bringtoaboiloverhighheat.Reducetheheat tomediumhighandcook foronehour.Thereshouldbeabout2cupsofliquidremaininginthepot.Addthewintermelon,bringtoaboilandremovefromheatafter justafewseconds.It justneedstogethotatwhichpoint it is cookedenough. Ifbutternut squash isused,cookabout2or3minutes,totaste.

Dashofblackpepper

Sprinklewithblackpepperbeforeserving.TOSERVE

Servehot,withriceifdesired.

SHORTRIBSWITHMUSTARDCABBAGEORGREENS Fourservings1lb.shortribs(lean)2shallots(orwhitepartofgreenonion)5cupswater¼tsp.saltSouppotwithcover

Cutshortribsintosmallservingpieces.Slicetheshallotsinto thin rounds.Putwater, salt, shallots, and shortribsinto the souppot,bring toaboilonhighheat.Reducetheheattomediumhigh,cover,andsimmerforaboutanhour. There should be about two cups of liquidremaininginthepot.

About1lb.mustardcabbage(substitute:Chinesecabbage,regularheadcabbageorturnipgreens)1tbsp.fishsauce(ortotaste)

Wash the greens, and discard bad spots. Cut the leafportion into pieces about 2 inches long.Cut the stemsinto1-inchpieces.Keepstemsandleavesseparate.Addthe stems to the soup pot, and continue to cook onmediumhighheatabout2minutes.Add the fishsauceandstir.Thenadd the leafyportion, stirwellandcookanother2or3minutes.Remove fromheat.The leaveswillbewilted,butnotsoft.Ifnotsaltyenoughaddmorefishsauce.

Dashofblackpepper

Sprinklewithblackpepperbeforeserving.TOSERVE

Serve hot with rice. Can be reheated, but the mustardleaveswillgetsoftandtheflavorwillbechanged.

SHORTRIBANDTURNIPSOUP Fourservings1lb.shortribs(lean)2shallots(orwhitepartofgreenonion)5cupswater¼tsp.saltSouppotwithcover

Cutshortribsintosmallservingpieces.Slicetheshallotsinto thin rounds.Putwater, salt, shallots, and shortribsintothesouppot.Bringtoaboiloverhighheat.Reducetheheat tomediumhighandcook foronehour.Thereshouldbeabout2cupsofliquidremaininginthepot.

1lb.whiteturnipPeelturnip(s)andcutintostripsabout2or3incheslongand½to¾inchsquare.Theyshouldbeslightlyuneven,butalmostthesamesize.

1tbsp.fishsauce(ortotaste)

Addtheturnipsandthefishsaucetothesouppot,bringto a boil and cook on medium high heat about 5minutes. If cooked too long the turnips will begin tosmellexcessively.Removefromheat.Taste.Addmorefishsauceifnotsaltyenough.

Dashofblackpepper

Sprinklewithblackpepperbeforeserving.

TOSERVE

Servehot,withriceifdesired.Thiscanbereheated,butheat quickly and remove from heat before the turnipbeginstosmell.

FISHCAKEANDCHINESECABBAGESOUP FourservingsSoupmadewith the FISHPASTE (page 25) or SHRIMP PASTE (page 25) can bemadeinvariousways,afewofwhicharedescribedinthefollowingrecipes.1headChinesecabbage

Washthecabbage,andchoptheleavesintolargepieces(about3x4inches).Putasideforlaststepofrecipe.

Souppotwithcover3cupswater1tbsp.fishsauce¼tsp.salt

Bringthewatertoaboiloverhighheat,inthesouppot,thenaddthefishsauceandsalt.

1cupFishPaste(page25)Coldwaterinacup

Drop the fish paste into the boiling water oneteaspoonfulatatime,rinsingtheteaspoonincoldwaterbetween"drops."Thefishballswillturnwhiteandfloat.Assoonasthefishballsarefloating,addthepiecesofChinese cabbage and cover the pot. Let it continue toboil,onhighheat,forabout1minuteoruntiltheleavesare just wilted. Remove cover, stir, cover again andcontinue to cookonhighheat another3minutes.Turnofftheheatandleavethesoupcoveredinawarmplaceuntilreadytoserve.

TOSERVE

Servehot.Serveplain,orover rice foraheartiersoup.Canbereheated,butdonotovercook.Besurethereisaside dish of fish sauce, in case the soup isn't saltyenoughforindividualtaste.

FISHCAKEANDWATERCRESSSOUP FourservingsAnice,lightsoupthatisstillheartyenoughforhappyeatingonacoolday.1bunchwatercress

Wash watercress thoroughly and remove the coarsestems.Chopintopiecesabout2incheslong.Substitute the watercress for the Chinese cabbage andcontinueaccordingtotheprecedingrecipe.

SHRIMPCAKEANDCHINESECABBAGESOUP FourservingsHereisanotherrecipeforsouphavingseveralvariations.ThisoneusesSHRIMPPASTE,page25.1headChinesecabbage

Washcabbageandchopleavesintolargepieces,about3or4inchessquare.Reserveforlaststepbelow.

Souppotwithcover3cupswater1tbsp.fishsauce¼tsp.salt

Bringwatertoaboilinthesouppot,onhighheat,andaddthefishsauceandsalt.

1cupShrimpPaste(page25)Coldwaterinacup

Drop the shrimp paste into the boiling water oneteaspoonfulatatime,rinsingtheteaspoonincoldwaterbetween "drops."The shrimpballswill turnwhite andfloat.AddtheChinesecabbageleavesandcoverthepot.Let

the soup continue to boil, on high heat, for about 1minute or just until the cabbage leaves are wilted.Removecover,stir,coveragainandcookforanother3minutesonhighheat.Turnoffheatand leave thesoupinawarmplace,covered,untilreadytoserve.

TOSERVEServehotover rice,orplain,asa simplesoup.Canbereheatedbeforeserving,butbecarefulnottoovercook.

SHRIMPCAKEANDWATERCRESSSOUP Fourservings1bunchwatercress

Wash thewatercress thoroughlyand remove thecoarsestems.Chopleavesandtenderstemsintopiecesabout2incheslongandsubstitutefortheChinesecabbageintheprecedingrecipe.

SHRIMPBALLSANDBEANTHREADSOUP Fourservings4-oz.pkg.beanthreadWarmwatertocover

Soakthebeanthread inwarmwater tocoverforabout10minutes,oruntilsoft.Whensoftenoughtocut,chopintopiecesabout2or3incheslong,usingscissorsorasharpknife.Substitute the bean thread for the Chinese cabbage inrecipeonpage32"

CRABAND"WESTERNBAMBOO"SOUP FourservingsAsparagusiscalled"westernbamboo"inVietnam.Thissoupisquicktoprepare,butveryheartyandfilling.Itisespeciallygoodonacoolday.Souppot1tbsp.cookingoil

2shallots(orwhitepartofgreenonion)3or4oz.crabmeat(freshorcanned)

Slice the shallots in thin rounds. Flake the crab meat.Heattheoilinthecookingpot,andsautethecrabmeatand shallots on high heat for 1 minute, stirringconstantly.

1-lb.canasparagusspears

Add the asparagus and stir briskly about 1 minute,shreddingtheasparagus.

1canchickenbroth(1½cups)1cupwater

Add chicken broth andwater, stirwell, bring to a boilandcookonhighheatabout2minutes.

1tbsp.cornstarchMixthecornstarchwithsomeofthehotliquidinacupor small bowl until smooth.This keeps it fromgettinglumpy.Add to the soup and stirwell. Bring to a boil,andcookaminuteortwountilslightlythickened.

1eggStir the egg slightly to mix the white and yolk, thendumpit into thesoup.Stir immediately,withacircularmovement around and around the pot. This makesstringsofcookedegginthesoup.

Dashofblackpepper

Sprinkle the pepper over the top of the soup, stir, andremovefromheat.

TOSERVEServe hot,with large slices of lemon or lime for eachindividual serving, andwith black pepper so that eachpersonmay season the soup to taste.This soupcanbemadeinadvanceandreheated.

CRABSOUPWITHLILYFLOWERS&BEANTHREAD FourservingsThissoupislightenoughtobeservedasanaccompanimenttoaregularmeal,butisnourishingenoughtobeservedwithagreensalad,asaluncheon.4-oz.pkg.beanthreadHotwatertocover

Soak thebean thread inhotwater about10minutes tosoften it. When soft enough, cut it into 3 to 5 inchlengthswithscissorsorasharpknife.

½cupdriedlilyflowers(optional)Warmwatertocover

Soak the dried lily flowers about 10 minutes, or untilsoft.Breakoffabout¼-inchof the toughorhard stemend(nottheflowerend)anddiscard.Tieeachsteminaknotinthemiddletomakeithaveasortofcrunchwheneaten.Leave the flowers inwateruntil ready touse. Ifnotavailable,justomitthisingredient.

¼lb.fresh(frozen)crabmeat1shallot(orwhitepartofgreenonion)

Cleancrabmeatandseparateintobite-sizechunks.Slicetheshallotinverythinrounds.

Heavysouppot1tbsp.cookingoil¼tsp.saltDashofblackpepper

Heattheoilinthesouppot,onhighheat.Putinthecrabmeat, shallot, salt and pepper. Saute over high heat,stirringconstantly,about2minutes.Addthesoakedlilyflowersandstirin.

3cupswater(or

chickenstock)2tbsp.fishsauce

Add the water (or chicken stock, if a heartier soup isdesired)andthefishsauce,andbringtoaboiloverhighheat. Reduce heat to medium and cook for about 5minutes.Add the soakedbean threadandcontinue tocookovermediumheat another 5minutes.Add themonosodiumglutamate,stirwell,andremovefromheat.

DashofmonosodiumglutamateTOSERVE

Add themonosodiumglutamate, stirwell, and removefromheat.

TOSERVEServehot,withriceifdesired.Shouldbeservedwithaside dish of plain fish sauce to be added to individualtaste,ifthesoupisnotsaltyenough.Canbereheated.

BEEFANDPINEAPPLESOUP FourservingsWait,now!Notsweet,cannedpineapplebutfreshorunsweetenedpineapple.Itmakesawonderfulvegetable!½lb.beef(sirloinorchuckbladeroast)2greenonions

Slicethebeefthin¼inch)inpiecesabout¾inchwideand 2 or 3 inches long.Chop the onions fine andmixwiththebeef.

¼freshpineapplesubstitute:smallcanofdietaryofotherunsweetened

pineapple)Chopthefreshpineappleinsmallchunks,thensqueezeitfirmlybetweenthehandstogetoutmostofthejuice.It will break up into small pieces, much like crushedpineapple.Ifcannedpineappleissubstituted,drainwellthenpressasmuchjuiceoutaspossible.Besurenottousesweetenedpineapple.

1tbsp.cookingoilLargeheavyskillet

Heat theoil in the skilletandsaute thebeefandonionabout1minute,oruntilbeefbegins tochangecolor. Itshould still be pinkish. Remove from skillet and setaside.

4-qt.pot4cupswater1tsp.salt2tbsp.fishsauce1onionDashofmonosodiumglutamateDashofblackpepper

Cut theonion in8or10sectionsandseparate.Put thewater, salt, fish sauce, onion, monosodium glutamateandpepperinthepotwiththecrushedpineapple.Bringtoaboilonhighheat.Turnofftheheatandaddthebeef.(Thiskeepsthebeeffromgettingtough.)Stirandserveimmediately.

TOSERVEServehotasacourseinaregulardinner,orwithriceasalightmeal.Canbereheated,butthebeefwillprobablygettoughbecauseovercookingtoughensit.

SHRIMPANDPINEAPPLESOUPSimilar to "Beef andPineappleSoup," this one calls for freshor unsweetened

pineapple,andnotthesweetcannedtype.Itmakesadeliciousvegetablesoup.½lb.whiteshrimp2greenonions

Shucktheshrimp,washitwell,andchopcoarsely.Choptheonionsfineandmixwiththeshrimp.

¼freshpineapple(substitute:smallcanofdietaryorotherunsweetenedpineapple)

Chop the fresh pineapple into small chunks, thensqueeze it firmlybetween thehands togetoutmostofthe juice. Itwill breakup into small pieces,much likecrushed pineapple. If canned pineapple is substituted,drainwell thenpressasmuchjuiceoutaspossible.Besurenottousesweetenedpineapple.

2tbsp.fatorcookingoil4-qt.pot3cupswater1tsp.salt2tbsp.fishsauceDashofmonosodiumglutamateDashofblackpepper

Heatthefatinthepot.Sautetheshrimpandonionsforabout one minute. Add water, salt, fish sauce,monosodiumglutamate,pepper,andcrushedpineapple,then bring to a boil and cook for 2 minutes. Removefromheatandserve.

TOSERVEServehot as a soupaccompanyinga regulardinner,orwith rice as a light meal. It is especially good with"ShrimpSauce"(page20).Canbereheated.

BEEFANDTOMATOSOUP FourservingsThisheartysouphasanespeciallyniceflavor;itmaybeservedasalightmealwithrice,ormaybeusedasadinnersoup,withlessbeefifdesired.Itisquicklyprepared,takinglessthanfiveminutestotalcookingtime.1lb.bottomsirloin3shallots(orwhitepartofgreenonions)½tsp.saltDashofpepper

Slicethesirloinagainstthegrainintothinpiecesabout¼inchthick,1inchwideand2or3incheslong.Slicethe shallots into thin rounds. Mix the shallots, salt,pepper,andmeattogether,andsetasidetomarinate,orseason,forabout30minutes,ifyouhavetime.

2largetomatoesCut the tomatoes in eighths. Remove the seeds ifdesired.

Largesouppot1tbsp.cookingoil

Heatthecookingoilinthesouppot.Sautethemeatandshallot mixture, stirring constantly, on high heat justuntil the meat begins to turn grey in places (about 1minute). It should still be pink, or it will get tough.Removefromthepotimmediatelyandreserve.

1tbsp.cookingoil1shallot(orwhitepartofgreenonion)

Slicetheshallot inthinrounds.Heat thecookingoil inthesouppot,andsautetheshallotforafewsecondsonhigh heat, stirring. Add the tomato and continue tosaute,stirring,about1minute.

3cupswater1tbsp.fishsauce½tsp.salt

Add the water, fish sauce, and salt. Bring to a rollingboil,addthebeefandremovefromheat.Becarefulnotto overcook or the beef will get tough. Serveimmediately.Ifnottobeservedatonce,waituntilreadytoservetoaddthemeat.

TOSERVEServehot,eitherplainoroverrice.Canbereheated,butthemeatwillgettough.Ifleftoverslooklikely,serveallthemeatthefirsttimeandhaveonlythesoupleftover.

GIBLETANDBEANTHREADSOUP FourservingsHere'sanexcellentwaytouseleftoverchickengiblets.14-oz.pkg.beanthreadWatertocover

Soakthebeanthreadinwarmwatertocoveratleast10minutes.Drainwell,andchopcoarsely.Setaside.

½lb.giblets(fryingchickengizzardsandhearts)2shallots(orwhitepartofgreenonions)1tsp.salt1tbsp.fishsauceDashofpepper

Chop the chicken hearts and gizzards into thumbnailsize chunks. Slice the shallots in thin rounds.Mix thegiblets,withtheshallots,salt,fishsauceandpepper,andsetasidetoseason,ormarinate,for20or30minutes.

1tbsp.cookingoil2qt.heavypot

Heat the cooking oil in a deep pot, and put in theseasonedchickengiblets.Sauteonmediumheatabout3minutes,stirringoccasionally.

1½cupschickenbroth1½cupswater

Addthechickenbrothandwatertothegibletmixtureinthepot.Bringtoaboil,onmediumhighheat,andboilforabout5minutes.Add thebean threadandcook foranother3minutesorso.

TOSERVEServehot,insoupbowls,withasliceoflimeorlemon.

CHICKEN-LONGRICESOUP FourservingsDeepheavypot1lb.chickenbacks1lb.fryingchickenpieces6cupswater4thinslicesfreshgingerroot(substitute:greenoniontops)

Putthechickeninthedeeppotwiththewaterandthin-slicedgingertohelpgetridoftheslightlydisagreeableodor of boiling chicken. Bring to a boil and cook onmediumhighheatforabout30minutes.

4-oz.pkg.beanthread(longrice)

Soakthebeanthreadinwarmwatertocover10minutesorormore.Drainwellandchopcoarsely.Takeoutthefryingchickenpieces,leavingthebacksinthe pot. When the frying chicken pieces have cooled,removethemeatfromthebonesandshredit.Skimoffthescumfromthetopofthesoup,anddecreasetheheat

tomedium.2shallots(orwhitepartofgreenonions)

Crushtheshallotswiththeflatsideofaknifebladeandaddtothesoupinthepot.

2tbsp.fishsauce½tsp.saltDashofblackpepperTOSERVE

Addthefishsauce,saltandpeppertothesoup,andletitcontinuetosimmeranother20minutes.

Add the soaked bean thread and the shredded chickenandcookforanothertwominutes.Turnofftheheat.

TOSERVECan be served over rice, or as a soupwith dinner. Besure to serve with a side dish of plain fish sauce forindividual seasoning to taste, if it is not salty enough.GarnishwithChineseparsley.

CHICKENANDWINTERMELONSOUP FourservingsMeatybonesfromafryingchicken(or1lb.backsandwings)1shallot(orwhitepartofgreenonion)

Ifbonesare large,chop intoegg-sizeor smallerpieceswithacleaver.Slicetheshallotintothinrounds.

1tbsp.cookingoilHeavysouppot

Heatthecookingoilinthesouppotandsautetheshallotand chicken bones on high heat, stirring, for about 2minutes.

1qt.waterAddwater,bringtoaboilandcookovermediumhighheatabout15minutes.

1tbsp.fishsauce¼tsp.saltDashofblackpepper

Addseasoningandstirwell.Taste,andaddmoresaltorfish sauce if desired. Reduce heat tomedium low andcookanother20or30minutes.

2lb.Chinesewintermelon(substitute:butternutsquash)

Peel thewintermelon, remove the center portionwiththe largest seeds and the soft section.Slice into piecesabout ¼ inch thick and about 1 inch wide and 2 or 3incheslong.Addtothesoupandcookabout2minutesbefore serving. Use the Chinese winter melon(sometimescalledChinesesquash)ifpossibletofindit.Butternut squash is an acceptable substitute, but asmaller amount may be used, and a slightly longercookingperiodmaybedesired—tasteitafter2minutes,andifitistoohard,cookanotherminuteorso.

TOSERVEServe as a broth-type soup, or serve over rice, asdesired, with a side dish of fish sauce for individualseasoning.

CHICKENANDRICESOUP EightservingsThis soup is a hearty one, but may be served in small quantities as anaccompanimenttoamaindish;itisexcellentasaone-dishluncheonordinner.1cuprice4cupswater3-quartpot

Putthericeandwater intoapotandbringtoaboilon

high heat. Reduce the heat to medium low and cook,uncovered,until the rice isverysoftand thewaterhasdisappeared(about30minutes),butdonotburntherice.Stirgently3or4times.

Souppot6cupswater1mediumfryingchicken

Cutthefryingchickeninhalfandputintothesouppotwith thewater. Bring to a boil on high heat. Save thegibletsforuseinanotherrecipe.

1shallot(oragreenonion)

Smashthebulbportionoftheshallot,cutthegreentopinto2or 3 inch lengths, and add to the chicken in thepot.

10thinslicesfreshgingerroot(optional)

Slice the freshginger root thinandadd to thechicken.This gets rid of the slightly strong "chicken" taste thatboiled chicken sometimes has. If fresh ginger is notavailable, substitute reconstituted dried whole gingerroot.Continuecookingonhighheatfor30minutes.Takeoutthechickenandcool.Whencool,removemeatfromthebones. Put the soft rice into the chicken broth and stirwell.

DashofmonosodiumglutamateDashofblackpepper¼tsp.salt2tbsp.fishsauce

Add themonosodium glutamate, pepper, salt, and fish

sauceandturnofftheheat.TOSERVE1greenonionLemonwedgesFishsauce

Before serving, put in a finely chopped green onion.ThisisasubstituteforaspecialkindofVietnamesemintthat isnotusuallyavailableelsewhere.Addhalfof theboned chicken, in medium-sized shreds or chunks.Reserve the remainder of the chicken for use in otherrecipes.Servehot,withasidedishoffishsauceforuseifnotsaltyenoughfortheindividualtaste.Afatwedgeof lemon should be served with each bowl, to besqueezedintotaste.

DUCKSOUP TenservingsHaveyouheardtheoldexpression"easyasducksoup"?Thisiseasy,andmakesawarming,simplesoup.Bones,bonypiecesandsomeextrafatfromaduck(orcutupandcookawholetoughduckthisway—justcookitalotlonger)Largesouppot

Use a very large soup pot.Duck is flavorful, andwillflavorabigpotofsoup.Puttheduckinthepotwiththewaterandbringtoaboiloverhighheat.(Ifitbeginstoboilover,reducetheheatslightly.)Boilfor20minutes.(If a tough duck is used, reduce heat to medium andcookuntilthemeatistender—3or4hoursifnecessary.)Addmorewaterasitboilsaway,keepingthelevelaboutthesame.

4or5slicesfresh

gingerroot2greenonions1tsp.salt

Skim the scum off the top of the soup, so it will betransparent.Addthegingerroot.Slicethegreenonionsin½-inchpiecesandadd,withthesalt.

1cupriceWash the rice and add to the soup. When cooking isfinishedthericewillbeverysoft,andthesoupwillbeslightly thickened by the rice. Reduce the heat to lowandcookforanother30minutes,oruntiltender.Ifyou,like most Vietnamese families, have leftover cookedrice,use2cupsofthatandaddabout15minutesbeforethecookingisdone.

2tbsp.fishsauce(ortotaste)Dashofblackpepper

Add the fish sauceandpepper justbefore serving.Stirwell.Ifthesoupisnotsaltyenough,addmorefishsauceor serve with a bowl of fish sauce so each individualmayseasonthesouptotaste.

TOSERVEChineseparsleyLemonslices

Serve hot, in large deep soup bowls, garnished withChinese parsley if available. Servewith large slices oflemon, tobe squeezedgently into the individualbowlstotaste.Canbereheatedseveraltimes.Don'tkeepmorethan2or3daysintherefrigerator—thefatcausesittospoil quickly. Can be frozen and stored for longerperiods.Noticethat,althoughlotsoffatwasputintothesoup,itcomesoutnottastingfat.

PORKMAINDISHESPORK IS THE MOST COMMON TYPE OF MEATused in Vietnam, as in most of theorient.Itisusedeithergroundorchoppedveryfine,orslicedinverythin,bite-sizepieces.Whencookedasaroast,itisoftencutintosmallerchunkssothattheseasoningsmay soak in better.Most of the beef recipesmay also be used forcookingpork.

PorkfatisalsomuchusedinVietnam;asaresultofthewidespreaduseofpork,itisreadilyavailableandisacheapsourceofcookingfat.Intheserecipes,cookingoilhasbeensubstitutedforporkfatinmostcases.

POTROASTPORKEverywell-equippedrefrigeratorshouldhaveachunkofthisinsideforallsortsofemergencies.3lb.freshhamroast4clovesgarlic1tbsp.salt1tsp.blackpepper

Buyleanmeat,allinonepiece.Slicethegarlicinverythinrounds.Withthetipofasharp-pointedknife,makeincisionsallaroundthechunkofroast.Aseachincisionis made, with the knife still in the meat, pry the holeslightlyopenandinsertasliceofgarlic.Mixthesaltandpepper together and rub the surface of the meat wellwiththemixture.Pulltheroasttogetherintoafirmtightroll,andtieittightlywithstring.Heatthecookingoilintheroasterandbrownthemeatonallsides,onmediumheat.

Roastingpanwithcover1tbsp.cookingoil

Heat thecookingoil in theroasterandbrownthemeat

onallsides,onmediumheat.

1cupcoldtapwater

Addthewater,bringtoaboilandreducetheheattolow.Coverandcookonlowheatuntiltender(about1hour).Since the water will not cover the meat, uncover andturntheroastoveroccasionally.

TOSERVEThis is best served cold. Slice thin and serve with asalad, or with leaf lettuce and mint leaves, or withPICKLED BEAN SPROUTS (page 92). It is also good formakingsandwicheswithFrenchrollsorFrenchbread.

PORKSTEW SixservingsThis can be made in advance and reheated repeatedly. It keeps well in therefrigerator about 1 week, and can be frozen very successfully. Every well-stockedrefrigeratorshouldhavesome.2lb.freshleanhamroast

Cut the ham roast into approximately 3-inch chunks(cubes).Therewon't bemany,but the roast shouldnotbe left inone largepiece.Crush the shallots.Combinewith the salt, sugar, caramel syrup, pepper and fishsauce,andpouroverthecubesofpork.Letmarinate,atroomtemperature,about1hour.

Heavypotwithcover6cupswaterTOSERVE

Crush the shallots. Combine with the salt, sugar,caramelsyrup,pepperandfishsauce,andpouroverthecubesofpork.Letmarinate,atroomtemperature,about1hour.

Heavypotwith

cover6cupswater

Bringwatertoaboilintheheavypot.Putallofthehamandthemarinadesauceintotheboilingwaterandbringto a boil again. Skim off the scum, reduce the heat tomediumlow,cover,andletsimmeruntiltender(about3hours).Usethechopsticktest:Iftheendofachopstickcanbepushedintothemeat,itistender.

TOSERVEServe hot, with rice, salad, PICKLED BEAN SPROUTS,(page92)etc.Youwillprobablyfindmanyotherwaysofyourowntoservethis.

SWEET-SOURSHORTRIBS FourservingsQuite different from the usual type, and sure to be popular. Fresh pineapplemakesboththe"sweet"andthe"sour"inthisrecipe.Largeskillet1½lb.shortribs4cupswater2shallots(orwhitepartofgreenonions)1tsp.salt

Slice shallots in thin rounds. Cut lean shortribs intoserving pieces. Place in large skillet and add shallots,salt,andwater.Bring toaboilonhighheat,coverandreduceheattomedium.Simmer,covered,for2hours.Ifwater evaporates before cooking is completed, addabout1more cup. If allwater is not evaporated at theendof2hours,bringheattohigh,uncoverandboiluntilwater isallevaporated.Cleanpineapple, takeoutcore,thencutintosmallchunks.Squeezebetweenthehands,gettingoutasmuchjuiceaspossible.Thiswillcrushthepineapple.Savethejuicefordrinking,salads,etc.

½freshpineappleClean pineapple, take out core, then cut into small

chunks.Squeezebetweenthehands,gettingoutasmuchjuiceaspossible.Thiswillcrushthepineapple.Savethejuicefordrinking,salads,etc.

2largecarrots

Shred the carrots, using a vegetable peeler or largesectionofgrater.

1largetomato

Cuttomatoineighths.

2clovesgarlic

Crush thegarlic and add tomeat in skillet,whichwillbegintosauteinitsownfat.Turnheattomediumhigh.Whenthesmellofthegarlicbeginstobenoticeable,putin the pineapple, carrots and tomato. Saute about 1minute. Stir often. Add the water and fish sauce, stirwell,coverandsteamabout10minutes,stillonmediumhighheat.Takesomeof the juice from the skillet,mixthecornstarchwithitsoitwon'tgetlumpy,andstirintothemixtureintheskillet.Letcookabout1moreminute.Serve.

1cupwater2tbsp.fishsauce

Addthewaterandfishsauce,stirwell,coverandsteamabout10minutes,stillonmediumhighheat

½tsp.cornstarchTake some of the juice from the skillet, mix thecornstarchwithitsoitwon'tgetlumpy,andstirintothemixture in the skillet. Let cook about 1 more minute.Serve.

VARIATIONIf fresh pineapple is not available, use a small can of

crushedpineappleandaddatablespoonofvinegartoit,orusecanneddiet(unsweetened)pineapple.

TOSERVEServehot,withrice,soup,andsalad.

PORKSHORTRIBS FourservingsBesuretogetshortribs,thecountrystylewithlotsofleanmeat—don'tbuythespareribsthatareallfatandboneandvery"spare"ofmeat.Thisisanappetiteteaser,makesyouwanttoeatlotsofrice.1lb.leanporkshortribs2greenonions¼tsp.salt

Sprinklethesaltovertheshortribs.Cuttheonionsin2-inch lengths, tops and all, andmix with the shortribs.Letstand20or30minutesto"season."

Mediumskilletwithcover1tbsp.cookingoil

Heattheoilintheskillet,andsautetheribsandonionsover high heat 2 or 3 minutes, or until the pork hasmostly changed color and begins to brown, stirring allthetime.Coverandcook1minuteonhighheat.

1tsp.sugar¼cupwater

Mix the sugar andwater, remove cover and pour overthe shortribs and stir well. Cover again and lower theheat tomediumhigh.Cookabout5minutes, removingthecovertostiroccasionally.

1tbsp.fishsauceDashofblackpepperTOSERVE

Turnonventilating fan.Add the fish sauce,cover, andcook5moreminutesonmediumhighheat.Don'tbeput

off by the smell of the fishsauce in this recipe—it isdifferentintasteoncethecookingisdone.

Dashofblackpepper

Sprinkle black pepper over the shortribs, stir, andremovefromtheheat.

TOSERVEServehot,withrice,soup,andsalad.Thisisverygoodreheated,andcanbefrozen.

FANCYBARBECUEDPORKONSKEWERS FourservingsThistenderdelicacytakesalittletimetoprepare,andalsoalittlemusclepower.The lazy onesmightwant to use ground pork, but that gives quite a differenttypeofbarbecue, andcannotbeconsidereda substitute.Be sureyouhave theright kind of equipment on hand before starting this recipe. For instance, youneedskewersthatarelongenoughtoreachacrossyourbarbecuegrill.Or,asanalternative, a light-weightwiregrill tokeep theballsofpork fromfalling intothefire.1½lb-veryleanporkleg(ham),orporkcutlet

Trim any fat off the pork, and get rid of all bone andgristle.Thenslicevery thin(18 inch)andcut inpiecesabout1inchsquare.

1tbsp.ricewine,orsherry(or1tsp.rumorbrandy)½tsp.salt½tsp.sugar2clovesgarlic

Mix the wine, salt, and sugar with the pork and let itsoak at least 30 minutes. This helps to keep the meatmoistwhenitisbarbecued.

2clovesgarlic

Crush the garlic fine. Using a mortar and pestle (seepage 9 for instructions), pound the seasoned meattogetherwiththecrushedgarlicuntilitallisreducedtoa paste. Note that it is much easier to pound a smallquantityatatime.

1tbsp.roastedrice(substitute:roastedsoybeans)(optional)1tsp.fishsauce2tbsp.lard

Poundtheroastedrice(seepage18)(ortheroastedsoybeans)toapowder.Ifneitherisavailable,justomit.Addthepowder,alongwiththefishsauce,totheporkpaste.Then mix in the lard. Lard, either bought or renderedfrom slowly cooked pork fat, is better than vegetableshortening because of the flavor, and because it alsocontributestothemoistnessofthebarbecuedpork.

Longbarbecueskewers(orshort,individualwoodenorbambooskewers)

Knead the paste well, with the hands, as if it weredough.Thenformthepasteintoslightlyelongatedballsontheskewers,puttingseveralballsonalongskewerorone ball on a short skewer. Squeeze the meat firmlywhenmaking the balls, and squeeze it firmly onto theskewerssoitwon'tslipofforfallapartwhilecooking.

Charcoalbarbecueequipment

Cook the skeweredporkballsover amediumcharcoalheat for about 15 minutes or more, depending on thesizeof theballs, theheat,etc.,makingsure thepork iswell done and slightly browned on the outside. Turn

occasionally so that all sides cook evenly. For a smallgroup,thiswouldworkwellonarotisserie.

TOSERVELeaflettuceChineseparsley(ifavailable)FreshmintleavesNuocLeoSauce¼lb.lookfunnoodles

Serve on a central plate. Also serve a central plate ofleaflettuce,mint,andChineseparsley,andaplatewithabout ¼ pound cooked look fun noodles (page 17).These can be put on top of a lettuce leaf "for looks."ServewithindividualbowlsofNUOCLEOSAUCE (page27)

TOEATThisissomethingtobeeatenwiththehands.First,takealeafoflettuce.OntopofitputafewstrandsofcookednoodlesandapieceortwoofChineseparsleyandmint.Thenputabarbecuedporkballinthenestthusformed,wrapthelettuceleafcloselyaroundall,takeafirmgripanddipitintotheNuocLeoSauce.Eachleafmaycallfor several dips into the sauce, or if you have smallleaves you may prefer to divide the meat balls intoseveralbite-sizepieces.

DRYPORKSTEW FourservingsThis is considered averyhealthful food inVietnam. It is fed tonewmothers,alongwithriceandaboiledvegetable,asthesafestpossiblefoodforoneinsuchadelicatecondition. It isalsoeatenbynon-mothers, fathers, sons,andanyoneelsewhocangetnearthedish!Mediumsmallpotlb.fairlyleanpork2shallots(orwhitepartofgreenonion)

Use lean pork chops, or pork shoulder. Remove thebones,andslice themeatagainst thegrain in thin(1/8-inch) strips about 1 inchwide and 2 or 3 inches long.Slice the shallots in thin rounds.Put into a small deeppot—alargerpotwillnotserveforthisdish,foritmustcookatfairlyhighheatandyetnotburn.Thesmallpotpresentslesssurfaceforburning.

¼tsp.blackpepper2tbsp.fishsauce¼tsp.salt1tbsp.sugar2tbsp.water

Addtheseasoningandwatertotheporkinthepot,putonhighheatandbringtoaboil.Stirwell,mix.andcookabout2minutes.Reduceheattomediumhigh,andboilforabout20to30minutes,stirringoccasionally.Alltheliquidshouldbeabsorbedbythemeat,anditwillbegintoturnalightbrown.Becarefulnottoburnit.

TOSERVEThiswillbeprettysalty,soservewithlotsofriceandasoupandsalad.

SAFFRONEGGPLANTWITHPORK SixservingsAnunusualwaywitheggplant,this.Goodforaheartydinner,orforlunchonacoldday.1blockbeancurdabout1½inchesthick,6incheslong,3incheswide(optional)(page12)

Cut the block of bean curd in half. Blot with papertoweling,squeezinglightly,tokeepfrompoppinginhotoil. Heat the oil in the skillet on medium heat. Sautebothsidesofbothblocksabout2or3minutes,tomakefirmer, usingmediumheat. Slice into smaller sections,

making about 8 or 12 pieces from each of the largerblocks.

2tbsp.cookingoilHeavyskillet2tbsp.driedshrimp(optional:substituteadashofmonosodiumglutamate)Warmwatertocover

Soak the small dried shrimp in warm water about 10minutes,thenboiloverhighheatabout5minutes.Drainoff water and reserve it for seasoning other foods, ifdesired.

½lb.porkleg,about¾leanand¼fat

Slicetheporkinsmallpieces,about1/8inchthickand1inchwide, 2 or 3 inches long.Try to get a little fat ineachslice.

2tbsp.cookingoilUsingthesameskilletusedtosautethebeancurd,heatthe cooking oil and saute the pork and soaked driedshrimp,stirringoccasionally,overhighheatforabout1minute.

2greenonions

Slice thegreenonions, includingthegreentopportion,insmallpieces.Addtotheporkandcontinuetosauteonhighheat anotherminute, stirringoccasionally.Cut thelargestmushroomsinhalf,thenwashallgently.Addtothepork,reducetheheattomediumandcook2minutes,stirringgentlyoccasionally.

1boxfreshmushrooms(about¼lb.)

Cutthelargestmushroomsinhalf,thenwashallgently.Addtothepork,reducetheheattomediumandcook2minutes,stirringgentlyoccasionally.

2longeggplants,or1mediumroundeggplant

Washeggplantandpeel,leavingonafewstripsofskinforcolor.Cutinthickfinger-sizepieces.

½tsp.saffron(or1tspcurrypowder)½tsp.salt

Addsalt, saffronandeggplant to topofpork inskillet.Stirgently.Cookabout1minuteonmediumheat.

1cupwater

Addthewaterslowly.Thenplacethebeancurdoverthetop.(Fromhereondonotstir,butaddthingsinlayers.)Continue to cook on medium heat another 3 minutes.Crush and chop fine, and sprinkle the garlic over themixtureintheskillet.Donotstir.

1clovegarlic

Remove thestemend,andcut the tomatoes ineighths.Addtothetopofthemixtureintheskillet,thendribblethefishsauceoverthetop.Donotstir.Continuetocookonmediumheatuntildone(another15or20minutes).Totalcookingtimeshouldbeabout30minutes.

2largetomatoes2tbsp.fishsauce

Servehot,withriceandsalad.Besuretopoursomeof

thejuiceovertherice,too.Canbereheated,butdonotfreeze. It isbestwhen freshlyprepared, since thebeancurdandtheeggplantarefragileandwilldisintegrateorgetmushy.

PORKANDCOCONUTWATERSTEW SixtoeightservingsThis delightful dish is included because it is so popular inVietnam, though itwillprobablynotbepossibletoduplicateitinmanyplaces.Thebasicingredientisthewaterofgreencoconuts,freshoffthetree.Thereisnosubstitute.Heavypotwithcover2lb.freshleanhamroast4cupsgreen-coconutwater(nosubstitute)1tbsp.salt3shallots(orwhitepartofgreenonions)¼tsp.blackpepper¼cupfishsauce

Cut the freshham into3-inch cubes (or chunks); therewon't bemany.Crush the shallots.Use thewater fromvery young, green coconuts—the type that is used fordrinking. Mix all ingredients together in a heavy pot,andbringtoaboiloverhighheat,uncovered.Skim off the scum, cover, and cook slowly over lowheatabout3hours.Thecolorwillchangetoaverydark,translucentbrown.

TOSERVEServehot,withrice,salad,soup,orasamaindish.Thiscan bemade in advance and reheated several times. Itwillkeep1weekintherefrigeratorandcanbefrozen.

CARAMELIZEDPORK FourormoreservingsThistakesalongtimetocook,butisveryeasytodo.InHue,centralVietnam,porkbelly isused in this recipe.Belly isvery fat and is consideredgood in acooler climate.Don't discard the fat portions before tasting—it is surprisinglygoodandsurprisinglydigestible!1lb.freshporkleg(ham)

Cut the fresh ham into several chunks about 1½ to 2inchessquare.

2-qt.pot1tbsp.cookingoil1tsp.salt2greenonionsDashofpepper1tsp.sugar

Chopthegreenonionfine.Heattheoilinthepot,thenadd theonion and the remaining ingredients, includingthepork.Saute,stirring,onmediumheatuntilthemeatisbrown(about5minutesormore).

4cupswater

Addthewaterandsimmer,uncovered,onmediumheatforonehour.

1tbsp.fishsauceAddthefishsauceandcontinue tosimmeronmediumheat1morehour.Mostofthewaterwillbeabsorbedbythe meat and the remainder will be slightly thick—orcaramelized.Becarefulnottoburnit.

TOSERVEServe hot as amain dish,with lots of rice. This has averylonglife—itmaybefrozen,refrigerated,reheated,

servedasanappetizer,etc.,etc.

VIETNAMESEMEATLOAF FourservingsThismeat loaf ismadewithporkandsteamed,andhasquiteadifferentflavorandtexturefromanAmericanmeatloaf.Itisveryquick,anddoesnotheatuptheoven.ThisisthesamemixturethatisusedtostuffCABBAGEROLLS,page49.6driedmushroomsHotwatertocover

Soakthebeanthreadinwarmwatertocoveratleast10minutes.Chopcoarsely,thenmeasureout½cupforusein this recipe. Any remainder may be used in otherrecipes.Slicetheshallotsinthinrounds.Choptheonioncoarsely.

½cupbeanthreadWarmwatertocover

Soakthebeanthreadinwarmwatertocoveratleast10minutes.Chopcoarsely,thenmeasureout½cupforusein this recipe. Any remainder may be used in otherrecipes.Slicetheshallotsinthinrounds.Choptheonioncoarsely.

3shallots(orwhitepartofgreenonions)½mediumonion

Slice the shallots in thin rounds. Chop the onioncoarsely.

1lb.groundpork1tbsp.fishsauce½tsp.saltDashofblackpepper

Addthemushrooms,longrice,shallotandoniontotheground pork. It is better to use finely chopped pork,chopped at home with a heavy, very sharp knife, butgroundporkfromthebutcher'sisanadequatesubstitute.

Thenaddthefishsauce,salt,andblackpepperandmixtogether thoroughlywith thehands,orwithaspoonorfork,ifdesired.

4eggs

Break the eggs into themeatmixture andmix inwellwiththehands,oraspoonorfork.

FlatheatproofdishSteamer

Placethemeatloafinaheatproofdishandputinthetoppart of the steamer. (See page 10 for instructions.) Putwater into bottom of the steamer, put the top section,withthemeatloaf,inplace,coverandsteamoverhighheatuntil firm (about20minutes).To test, remove thelid,trytheloafwithaforkorspoon,gently.

TOSERVENuocManSauceLeaflettuce

Thisisespeciallygoodservedwithleaflettuce.Wrapabite-sizedportionoftheloafinaleafoflettuce,dipintothe sauce and eat with appropriate noises ofappreciation.Can alsobe servedwith rice,withbread,orinanywayonemightservemeatloafAmericanstyle.

LONGRICEANDPORKMIX Fourtosixservings26rollsngunsifunnoodles,alsoknownas"ricesticks"ormeifun(page18)WarmwatertocoverDeeppot

Put the individual tiny bundles of noodles into warmwatertocover.Assoonastheyhavesoftenedenoughto

make it easy, untie the individual bundles and discardtheties.Soakaboutonehour.Put the pot of noodles and the soaking water on highheat. Bring just to the boiling point and remove fromheat immediately. Drain at once in a colander. Thesenoodlesarevery fragileandwilldisintegrate ifcookedverymuch.

1egg1tsp.cookingoilLargeheavyskillet

Beattheeggwithaforkjustuntilthewhiteandyellowarethoroughlymixed.Preheattheskilletwiththeoilinitonmediumheat.Reducetheheat to lowandpourinthe egg, turning and tilting the skillet so that the eggspreads in a thin layer over the skillet bottom. Cookuntil theegg isdry.Removefromheat,andwhencoolenough, roll the egg into a roll about 3 inches wide.Sliceacrossintostripsabout¼inchwideandsetaside.

½cuptinydriedshrimp(optional:substituteadashofmonosodiumglutamate)Warmwatertocover

Soakthedriedshrimpinwarmwatertocoverabout15minutes.Omitifyoudon'tlike,orcan'tget.

1lb.freshporkleg(ham)orporkchop2greenonions

Slice the fresh pork thin (about 1/8 inch) and cut inpieces about 1 inchwide and 2 inches long. Leave onplentyoffat.Chopthegreenonionfine,topandall.

Largeskillet3tbsp.cookingoil

Preheat the oil on high heat, and put in the pork and

greenonion.Reduceheat tomediumandsauteabout2minutes,stirringfrequently.Addinthesoakeddriedshrimpandstirwell(optional).

2tbsp.saltDashofblackpepper

Add the salt and pepper and continue to cook onmediumheatanother2minutes,stirringoccasionally.Addinthedrainednoodlesandcontinuetocookanotherminute,stirringverygentlyoccasionally.

lb.freshbeansprouts

Addthebeansprouts,mixgently,andcontinuetocookonmediumheatfor2moreminutes.Liftwithaspatulafromthebottomoccasionallytokeepfromstickingtoomuch.

About1cup(loosepack)chives

Cutthechivesin2or3inchlengthsbeforemeasuring.Add to the mixture in the skillet and mix in gently.Continue to cook on medium heat 2 more minutes,liftingfromthebottomwithspatulaoccasionally.

¼cupwater2tbsp.fishsauce

Mix thewater and fish sauce together, then pour overthe noodlemixture gradually, stirring gently tomix inwell. Add the sliced, cooked egg, mix in gently andremovefromheat.

TOSERVENuocMamSauce

Servehot,withsidedishesofNUOCMAMSAUCE (page23).Thiscanbereheatedbywrappinginaluminumfoilandsteaming ina steamer,but if it is stirred toomuchthenoodleswillfallapartintotinybitsmorelikerice.

TROTTINGBAMBOOSTEW FourtoeightservingsThisisoneofthemanywaystheVietnamesepreparepig'strotters—consideredaverytastypartofthepig.InVietnam,freshbambooshootsareavailableduringmost of the year and they are often used in preparing this dish, but cannedbamboo may be substituted. Dried bamboo shoots are used during the rainyseason,butthedriedbambooissundriedforfamilyuseandisnotintendedforstoragebeyondthethreemonthsorsoofneed.DriedbambooshootsavailableinChineseorotherorientalstoresinotherpartsoftheworldareusuallymachineorkilndried,andneedconsiderablymoresoakingandboiling.Otherrecipesusingdriedbambooarelistedintheindexunder"bamboo,dried."3to4oz.driedbambooshoots3qts.water

Soakthebambooshootsovernight.Nextdaydrainandrinsewell.

SouppotWater1tsp.bakingsoda

Putthesoakedbambooshootsinasouppotwithwatertocoverandaddbakingsoda,whichhelpstomakethebamboo shootsmore tender.Bring to a boil and cook,uncovered,overmediumheat, about1hour.Drainandrinse the shoots under cool running water, rubbingfirmly between the hands to clean thoroughly. Drainwell.Cuteachstripinhalfacross,thencuteachhalfinto3orsolengthwisestripsabout½inchwideand2or3incheslong.Putthestripsbackinthesouppot.

2½lbs.pigsfeet1tsb.salt1tbsp.fishsauce2greenonionsWatertocover

Washthepigsfeet,Theywillbeprettycleancleanwhentheycomefromthebutcher's,sothiswon'tbetoogreatajob.Thencutinto3-inchsectionsandputinthesouppot with the strips of dried bamboo. Cut the green

onionsinto2-inchlengthsandadd,withthesaltandfishsauce. Pour inwater to cover. Bring to a boil on highheat. Reduce heat to medium, cover and cook 1 or 2hours,oruntileverythingistender.Thebambooshootsshouldhaveaslightlyfirmandchewytexture,similartothat of fresh green onions when only slightly cooked.The flavor is quite different, though.NOTE: If cannedbambooissubstituted,beginwiththisstep.

TOSERVERemovethebonesfromthepigsfeet.Pullthemeatintoshreds. Put themeat back into the stew and serve hot,withriceandasalad.Canbeservedoverrice,ifdesired.This can be stored in the refrigerator several days andreheated.Canbefrozenforlongerstorage.

CABBAGEROLLS SixservingsThisVietnameseversionofthetrulyinternationalcabbagerollisveryquicktoprepare,yetitisattractiveforacompanydinnerandheartyforafamilyone-dishdinner.14largeoutsideleavesfromcabbageBoilingwater

Inawidepan,orskillet,bringaboutaquartormoreofwatertoarollingboil.Removeanybrokenouterleavesfromthecabbage,thentakethelargeleavesofftheheadcarefully. Immerse each leaf in the boiling water andwilt—about1minuteorless.Morethanoneleafcanbedoneatonce,justbesuretheentireleafisimmersed.Analternate method is to immerse the entire head ofcabbage in apot of boilingwater for aminuteor two,then remove the outer leaves. The stem section of thecabbage leaves may still be too hard to roll easily. Insuchacase,withaverysharpknife,pareawayaportionofthestemattheback,justmakingitthinner.Don'tcutitawaycompletely.

7or8greenonionstems

Usejustthegreenstemportionfromlittlegreenonions,choosing stems that are at least 8 inches long. Thelonger the better. These, too, should be wilted in theboilingwaterforaminuteorless,thenslicedortorninhalf lengthwise. This will provide the ties for thecabbagerolls.

10driedlilyflowers(optional)6driedmushroomsHotwatertocover

Soak the dried mushrooms and dried lily flowers (seepages17and16) inhotwateruntil softandpliable (atleast20minutes).Removeanddiscardthestemsectionof themushrooms, and pinch off and discard the hardstemendofthelilyflowers.Chopallcoarsely.

½cupbeanthreadHotwatertocover

Soak the bean thread in hotwater to cover at least 10minutes.Chopcoarsely,using½cupforthisrecipeandreservinganyremainderforotherrecipes.

3shallots(orwhitepartofgreenonions)½mediumonion1lb.groundpork1tbsp.fishsauce½tsp.saltDashofblackpepper

Slice the shallots in thin rounds. Chop the onioncoarsely. Mix the chopped lily flowers, mushrooms,bean thread, shallots, and onionwith the ground pork.Add fish sauce, salt and pepper, and mix thoroughlywiththehands,orwithaspoonorfork.

1egg

Break the egg into the mixture and mix in well. ThismixturemayalsobeusedfortheMEATLOAF recipeonpage46.Placeabout2tbsp.meatmixturenearthestemendofacabbage leaf. Fold the two sides over, then rolllengthwisetomakearollabout4incheslong.Tiegentlywiththewiltedgreenoniontops.

2tbsp.cookingoilLargeheavyskilletwithcover

Heat the cooking oil in skillet on medium high heat.Place the cabbage rolls in the skillet close together.Cover and cook 2 minutes on medium high heat.Remove the cover and turn the rolls, using tongs,chopsticks, or two spoons and working very gently.Remove from heat if you feel too rushed or awkward.Coverandcook2minuteslonger.

1shallot(orwhitepartofgreenonion)1greenonion½cuptomatosauce¾cupwater1tbsp.fishsauce

Slice shallot and green onion in thin rounds. Make asmall space in themiddleof thepan,pushing the rollsgentlyaside.Putintheshallotandgreenonionandsautea few seconds, until the odor rises. Then pour in thetomato sauce and water. Stir gently around the rolls.Sprinkle fish sauceover the top.Coverandcook for2moreminutes. Remove cover and turn the rolls again.Coverandcook6moreminutes.Thecenteroftherollsshould be firm when the flat of a spoon is pressedagainstthetop.

1tsp.cornstarch

¼cupwaterPinchofmonosodiumglutamate

Mixthecornstarchandmonosodiumglutamateintothewater,whichwillkeepthecornstarchfrombeinglumpy.Pourintothecenterofthepan,andstiraroundtherollsgently.Thiswill notmakea thick sauce,but itwill bethickerthanjustplainwater.Cook2moreminutes.Thetotal cooking time after the firstwater is added shouldbeabout10minutes.

TOSERVEServewithrice.Besuretoservethegravywiththerolls,topourovertherice.Ifdesired,therollscanbeslicedinhalf,acrossthemiddle.Waituntilslightlycooledanditwillbeeasiertoslicetherollswithouttearingthem.

SUGGESTIONIfyouwanttoservefewerpeople,saveoutaportionofthe meat mixture, add another egg or two to it(dependingonhowmuchisreserved—atotalof3or4eggsfortheentirerecipe),andsteaminasmallbowlforanothermeal.SeeVIETNAMESEMEATLOAF,page46.

STUFFEDCUCUMBERSLICES AboutsixservingsThisisafancy-looking,elegant-tasting,andeasy-to-makedish.10driedlilyflowers(optional)5driedmushroomsWarmwatertocover

Soakmushroomsanddried lily flowers inwarmwaterto cover about 15 minutes. Drain; discard tough stemportion ofmushrooms and pinch off hard stem end oflilyflowers.Chopcoarsely.

½of2-oz.pkg.leanthread

Warmwatertocover

Soak bean thread in warm water to cover about 15minutes.Drainandchopcoarsely.

½lb.fairlyleangroundpork1greenonion1tbsp.fishsauce¼tsp.saltDashofpepper

Askthebutchertogrindfreshhamorshoulder,about¼fatand¾lean.Thebest,however, ischoppedathomewithaverysharpknife.Chopthegreenonionfineandmixwiththepork,togetherwiththefishsauce,saltandpepper.Mixinthechoppedmushroomsandbeanthread.Let the mixture stand to season at room temperatureabout20minutes;ifrefrigerated,aboutanhour.

1egg

Breaktheeggintothemeatmixtureandmixinwell.2large,fatcucumbers

Peelthecucumbersandcutinto¾-inchrounds.Hollowoutthecenterandseedsofeachround,leavingjusttheoutercore.Fillinthehole,allthewaythrough,withthemeatmixture,roundingitupslightlyonbothsidesandpackingfirmly.

2tbsp.cookingoilHeavyskillet

Preheat the oil, and fry the stuffed cucumbers, onmedium heat, about 5 minutes on each side, turningoccasionally,tobrown.Besurethecenterisdone.

SAUCE1clovegarlic

Crush the garlic, make a small space and add to the

center of the skillet. Fry a few seconds, until the odorrises.

⅓cupwater¼tsp.cornstarchDashofmonosodiumglutamate

Mix thewater,monosodium glutamate and cornstarch,so it won't get lumpy, then pour into the skillet. Stirgentlysoitwillgoaroundthecucumberslices.Cookforafewseconds,thenturnthecucumbersover.Whenthesaucegetstranslucent,turnofftheheat.

SAUCEVARIATION¼cuptomatosauce½cupwater1tsp.cornstarchDashofmonosodiumglutamate

Asaslightlymorespicysubstituteforthesauceabove,mix the tomato sauce, water, monosodium glutamate,and the cornstarch so it won't get lumpy. Pour themixture into the skillet and stir gently so it will goaround the cucumber slices. Cook a few seconds andturn all the cucumbers over.When the sauce thickensslightly,turnofftheheat.

TOSERVEServe hot,with rice.Can be refrigerated and reheated,butdonottrytofreeze—thecucumberswillgetsoggy.Thisisbestservedassoonasitiscooked.

STUFFEDTOMATO FourorfiveservingsThismaybesteamedorfried,andmakesanelegantlydifferentpartydish.5largetomatoes,or7smallerones

Cutout thestemendof the tomatoesandgentlyscoopoutthecenterportionofthemeatandseeds.Setaside.

STUFFING3driedmushroomsWatertocover

Soakthemushroomsabout10minutesinwarmwatertocover.Drainwell.Cutawayanddiscardthestems.Sliceandchopthemushroomsintofinepieces.

¼ofa2-oz.pkg.beanthreadWarmwatertocover

Soakthebeanthreadinwarmwatertocoveratleast10minutes,anddrainwell.Chopcoarsely.

2shallots(orwhitepartofgreenonions)½lb.groundleanpork¼tsp.saltDashofpepper

Slice the shallots into thin rounds. Combine with thegroundpork.Addthemushrooms,thebeanthread,salt,pepper,andfishsauce.Mixtogetherthoroughly.

1egg

Breaktheeggintotheporkmixture,andmixinwell.Itismucheasiertogetallingredientscombinedwellifthemixingisdonewithakneadingmotionwiththehands,muchasonewouldkneaddough.

TOSTUFFStuff the porkmixture into the center of the tomatoes,stuffing firmlybutgentlyandsmoothing the top intoaheapingmound.

TOSTEAMSteamer(seepage10)

Place the stuffed tomatoes, stuffing sideup, on aheat-resistantflatdish in the topsectionofasteamer.Bringwatertoboilinthebottomofthesteamer,setthetopinplace, cover, and steam over medium high heat untildone(about30minutes).Theporkshouldbecookedallthewaythrough.

TOFRY3tbsp.oilHeavyskilletwithlid

Heat the oil in the skillet, on medium heat. Place thestuffed tomatoes, gently, with spatula, large spoon, orhands in the skilletwith the stuffing sidedown.Coverlightly—but be sure plenty of air can get in so thetomato skins won't split open too much. Saute onmedium high heat about 4 or 5 minutes. Turn thetomatoes, using a spatula and large spoon. Be verygentleandworkslowly, toavoidbreakingtheskinandmaking everything come apart. Remove from heat, ifyou prefer. Saute onmedium high heat another 2 or 3minutes. Reduce heat to low and allow to stay warmuntildone(about10to15minutes).

TOSERVECanbeserved"Westernstyle"asamaindish,withriceandasalad.TheVietnamesestyleistoplaceatomatoina deep rice bowl, and add rice on top, eating withchopsticks.

NOODLESALAD-SOUP(MIQUANG) FourservingsThis delightful dish is a combination ofmain dish, soup, and salad. It can becookedand servedwithmanyvariations,but theendproduct is alwaysheartyandarealchallengetoaweakappetite.Theversiondescribedinthebasicrecipebelow is a regional dish from South Central Vietnam, south of Hue. Other

versions,withbeefandchicken,aregivenonpages62and84.½cuptinydriedshrimpWarmwatertocover(optional:substitute½tsp.monosodiumglutamate)

Soakthedriedshrimpinwarmwaterabout10minutesormore, until they begin to soften slightly. Drain justbeforeaddingtosoup.

1lb.porkbelly(or¾lb.porkbellyand¼lb.porkliver)2greenonions

Useporkbelly for this recipe. It is stripedmeat, somefat,lean.Cutitintothin(inch)slicesabout2inchesx½inch, across the grain,with some fat and some lean ineach piece. Chop the green onion in small pieces. Ifdesired,¼poundlivermaybeusedforflavor.

2tbsp.cookingoil3-qt.pot

Heattheoilinthepotandsautetheporkandoniononmediumheatabout5minutes,stirringoccasionally.

1tsp.saltMixtheChineseshrimpsaucewiththewater,andaddtothe soup. Stir well and cook about 2 more minutes.Since many people dislike the smell, and some alsodislikethetaste,ofthe

1tsp.Chineseshrimpsauce(optional)(substitute:pinchofmonosodiumglutamateand½tsp.salt)

½cupwaterMixtheChineseshrimpsaucewiththewater,andaddtothe soup. Stir well and cook about 2 more minutes.Since many people dislike the smell, and some alsodislikethetaste,oftheChineseshrimpsauce,another½tsp.of salt andapinchofmonosodiumglutamatemaybe substituted. The shrimp sauce is quite salty, so thesubstitution is for that attribute alone—the flavor andodoraresimplyomitted.

3largetomatoes

Cut the tomatoes in sixths and add to the soup; cookanothertwominutes,stirringoccasionally.

2cupswater1tbsp.fishsauce

Addthewater,bring toaboil, thenadd thefishsauce.Stirwell,andcookanotherminute.

Dashofblackpepper

Add the black pepper (coarsely ground is better), stir,and remove the soup from the heat. Keep warm untilserved.

OTHERINGREDIENTS½lb.freshordriedricenoodles(Chineselookfun,page17)

If the fresh noodles are available, use them. If freshnoodles are not available, substitute the dried Chinesericenoodlescalledlookfun,ortheChinese"ricesticks"called sha ho fun.Be careful about cooking the driednoodles—some brands have misleading Englishdirections on the package! Soak the dried noodles fortwohoursinwarmwatertocover.Bring6cupsofwatertoaboil,drainthenoodlesandaddtotheboilingwater.

Bring to a boil again, and boil for 5 minutes. Drainimmediately, and rinse under running cool water toseparatethenoodlesandkeepthemfromgettingsticky.Thedriednoodlesusually comecut in theproper size,butthefreshnoodlesshouldbecutintostripsabout3or4incheslong,andabout½inchwide.Setaside.

¼cupfreshbeansprouts½cucumber6or7lettuceleaves½cupChineseparsley¼cupfreshmintleaves

Wash and drain the bean sprouts, lettuce, Chineseparsley,andmintleaves.Slicethecucumberinto18-inchrounds,then cut into narrow strips. This is the saladportionofthedish;setasideforlateruse.

1oz.pkg.cornchips

This is a substitute for avery similarVietnamese fooditemmadeofrice.Crushthecornchipscoarsely,andsetasideforlater.

½cuproasted(salted)peanuts

Chop thepeanutscoarsely, justbeforeserving.Besureto use the "dust" in the bottom of the container, too,becausemuchoftheniceflavoristhere.

3tbsp.cookingoil2greenonions

Chopthegreenonionsfine,topsandall.Placeinaheatresistant bowl or small pan. Heat the cooking oil, andpour over the chopped onions. Let stand until slightlycool.

TOSERVE4deepsoupbowls

Gather together all the bowls and pots of ingredients,and combine in the following order: In the bottom ofeachsoupbowlplace¼ofthesaladmixture.Overthat,put¼ofthecookednoodles.Thenladleanicegeneroushelpingofsoupwith lotsofmeatover thenoodles.Ontop, sprinkle the corn chips and peanuts, and pour 1tbsp. onion oil over the top of each bowl. Serve withchopsticks,andsoupspoons.

EATINGINSTRUCTIONS

With chopsticks, mix everything together, but only asmuchasindividualtastedictates.Eatthemeat,noodles,salad greens, etc., with chopsticks, and drink the soupwith a spoon. If seconds are desired, have somemoresoup!

PORKSHRIMPANDVEGETABLEPANCAKE-OMELET(BanhXeo)This very Vietnamese dish is hard even to name in English!Banh is a verygeneralword,meaninganybread,cake,cookie,orpancaketypeoffood.Xeoisthenoisethatthethinbattermakeswhenitispouredintothehotpan.Butthereare a lot of other ingredients, and the final product is most memorable. Sixservings.THEBATTER1cupriceflour2cupswater½cupcoconutmilk(page26)1tbsp.sugar1tsp.saffron½to1cupfinelychoppedgreenoniontops

Mix the rice flour, water, and coconut milk to form abasic very thin batter. Stir in the sugar, or useCARAMELIZED SUGAR SYRUP, page 27, to make thecookedpancakecrunchy.Addsomesaffron,togivethebatteratinytouchofcolor.Andfinallygentlymixinthe

finely chopped green onion tops for both color andflavor. Especially color. After the first pancake iscooked,ifthebatterseemstoothinadd1or2tbsp.plainflour. If too thick, adda littlemorewater. It shouldbevery,verythinandrunny.

½lb.porkbelly1mediumonion

Slice the pork belly very thin (inch), in small pieces(1x2inchesorless).Slicetheonionverythin.

½lb.driedmungobeans(optional,butwithadefinitechangeofflavorifomitted)

This type of dried bean is usually bought alreadyskinless and halved in Vietnam. When found outsideVietnam,though,thebeansmustbesoakedovernightinlots ofwater to soften them.Then next day, drain andrinseundercoolrunningwater,rubbingfirmlybetweenthe hands to remove the outer skin.Cover the soaked,rinsedbeanswithwaterandtheloosenedskinswillfloattothetop,wheretheycanbepouredoff.Thismayhavetoberepeatedseveral times, to removeasmuchof theouterskinaspossible.

PotwithcoverWater

Puttherinsedbeansinapot,andputenoughwaterintocovertoadepthoftwoinches.Bringtoaboil,onhigh,andletboilabout1minute,notmore.Drainoffallthewater,leavingthebeansinthepot.Putthe pot of drained beans back on lowest heat and letcookuntildry,forabout30minutes.Thenitisreadytouse.

12fresh(frozen)whiteshrimp

Thaw shrimp, if frozen.Hull shrimp and cleanout the

black vein along the back. Using a very sharp knife,sliceeachshrimpinto3thinlengthwiseslices.

MAKINGTHEOMELETHeavyskillet2tbsp.cookingoil

Pour ½ cup of the batter over the pork, shrimp, andonion.Thisiswhenitmakesthesoundxeo.

1lb.freshbeansprouts

Dropahandfuloffreshbeansproutsoverthetopofthe"pancake"andscatter2tbsp.ofthesoakedandcookedmungobeansoverthetop.

2eggs2tbsp.water

Mixtheeggstogetherthoroughly,thenmixinthewater.Dribble2tbsp.ofthismixturearoundtheouteredgeofthepancake.Alloftheprecedingfourstepsshouldhavebeendonerapidly.Afterthepancakehascookedonlyafewseconds,covertheskilletandletitcontinuetocookonmediumheatabout1minute.Uncovertheskillet,andfoldthepancakeinhalf,withaspatula.Putthepiecesofporkandonionforthenextpancakeintheexposedhalfof the skillet, adding a small amount of cooking oil ifnecessary.Continuetocookforanother½minute.Remove the first pancake-omelet to awarmplate, andthesecondoneisalreadyunderway.Beginwiththestepwhere the shrimp is added and continue from there.Repeatuntilalltheingredientsaregone.ThefirstBanhXeoisusuallyslightlyburnedandgenerallynotasniceastheothers,justasoftenhappenswithpancakes.

TOSERVENuocMamSauceChineseparsleyFreshmintleavesThinslicesofcucumber

LeaflettuceServehot,with leaf lettuce, freshmint leaves,Chineseparsley, thin sliced cucumbers, and individual smallbowlsofNUOCMAMSAUCE (page23).Each individualmaybeservedawholepancake,oronlyapart.Toeat,wrap a portion of pancake in a lettuce leafwithmint,Chineseparsleyandcucumber,anddipinthesauce.

PORKOMELET FourservingsThisomelet is a colorful, quick and inexpensivedish thatmakes a goodmaincourseforasimplemeal.ItbearsonlyapassingresemblancetoEggFooYung.It is an easy extra dish when leftovers don't stretch quite far enough, or anunexpectedguestarrivesjustatmealtime.1greenonion1largetomato

Chop the green onion into ¼-inch pieces. Seed thetomatoandchopcoarsely.Addhalf thechoppedoniontothetomatoandsetaside.

½lb.groundporkDashofblackpepper¼tsp.salt

Add the other half of the chopped green onion to thepork.Addsaltandsprinklewithpepper.Mix.

Mediumskillet1tsp.cookingoil

Heat the oil in skillet, on high heat. Add the porkmixture, reduce the heat to medium, and saute withoccasional stirring until the pork changes color. Thiswilltake3to5minutes.Addthechoppedtomatoandonion,stirwell,andletthemixturecontinuetocookonmediumhighheatanother1to 2 minutes. Remove from heat and let cool a fewminutes.

5to8eggs1tbsp.fishsauce

Thenumberofeggstousewilldependonthesizeoftheeggs,thesizeoftheappetites,andthesizeofthemeal.Beattheeggswithaforkuntilthoroughlymixed,butthewhite should still be ropy.Add the fish sauce, and stiruntilmixedin.

10-inchironskillet,orotherheavyskillet,oromeletpan.(Ifalargeskilletisnotavailable,maketwobatchesinasmallerskillet.)1tsp.cookingoil

Heat thecookingoilonhighheatuntil it smokes.Addthe cookedporkmixture to the eggs, andpour all intotheslightlysmokingskillet.Reduceheatimmediatelytomedium.Withaspatula,pushthroughthemixturetotheskillet bottom, lifting slightly so that the uncookedliquidportioncan run through to thebottom.Continuethispokingandliftingalloverthebottomofthepan,butgently,whilethemixturecooksforaboutoneminuteorso.Reducetheheattolow,andlettheomeletsitintheskillet undisturbed about 5minutes. It should be firm,slightlybrownonthebottom,butstillsoftontop.Foldin half with a spatula, soft top sides together, andremovegentlytoawarmplate.

TOSERVENuocMamSauceLeaflettuceChineseparsleyMintleaves

Servewith rice, a salad, and a soup if desired.A sidedishofNUOCMAMSAUCE(page23)shouldbeservedasan accompaniment to be used to individual taste. Leaflettuce,Chineseparsley, andmint leavesareespecially

goodwiththis.

BEEFMAINDISHESBEEF IS NOT WIDELY USED IN VIETNAM and tender beef is considered quite adelicacy.Thebestcutsofbeefforuse in theserecipeswillbe thechuckbladeroast(lowerpartofthechuck,withonlythesmallshoulderbladebone)whenitis well marbled with fat; or sirloin steak. If your butcher does not advertisechuckbladeroast,askforit.Hewillknowwhatyouwant.

Beef is normally cut in very thin slices, in bite sized pieces, and will becookedavery,veryshorttime.Itisbesttoleavethebeefslightlypink,sothatitwillbetender,whenitisbeingsauteed.Whenbeefisboiled,itshouldbeputinat the lastminute justbefore thedish isserved; toughbeef isnotconsideredadelicacy!

BEEFSTEW(THITBOKHO) FourservingsAheartydish,andsoappetizingthatweight-watchersshouldbeware.EverytimeIcookthis,weallgetfat!Butitisworththeprice,occasionally.2lb.stewingbeef2freshcitronellaroots(optional)2shallots(orwhitepartofgreenonions)

Cut the stewing beef into 2-inch cubes. Crush thecitronellaroots. Ifcitronella isunavailable,substitute3knobsof freshor reconstituteddriedginger root slicedthin.Crushtheshallots.

Heavypotwithcover1tbsp.cookingoil1tbsp.salt3pinchesofblackpepper

Heat the oil in the heavy pot, and put in the beef,crushed citronella, and crushed shallots. Sprinkle withthe salt and pepper. Saute over high heat about 2minutes,stirringconstantly.

2qts.water1tbsp.fishsauce4-inchstickofcinnamon

Break up the cinnamon and add, with water and fishsauce, to thebeef in thepot.Bring to aboiloverhighheat.Lowertheheattosimmer,cover,andcookonlowheatuntilbeefistender(about2or3hours).

1½tbsp.tomatopaste

Abouttenminutesbeforeserving,addtomatopasteandstirwell.UseSpanish-styletomatopaste.

TOSERVEServehot,with rice, spaghetti, ornoodles.This is alsogood reheated—if there is any left over. It can alsobefrozen.

SESAME,BAMBOO,ANDBEEF SixservingsBoth bamboo and sesame seed aremuch used inOriental cookery. This dish,combiningthetwo,isespeciallygood.½lb.topsirloin(orothersimilarbeef)

Slice the beef into thin (18-inch) pieces, about 1 inchwideand2incheslong.Sliceagainstthegrain,soitwillbetenderwhencooked.

2tbsp.cookingoilHeavyskillet

Heatthecookingoilintheskillet,onhighheat.Addthebeefslicesandsauteuntilbeef justbegins to turngray(about1minute).Itshouldstillbemostlypink.Removefrom skillet and set aside. Overcooking will make the

beeftough,anditgetscookedmorelaterintherecipe.1largecanand1smallcanbambooshoots(about2cupsshreddedbamboo)1shallot(or-whitepartofgreenonion)

Be sure to use canned Chinese bamboo shoots. Shredthebambooshootsintomatchstick-sizepieces.Slicetheshallotinthinrounds.

2tbsp.cookingoil1tbsp.fishsauce¼tsp.salt

Heatthecookingoilinthesameskilletusedtosautethebeef.Addtheshallotandsaute,stirring,onmediumheatabout half aminute.Add the bamboo shoots, salt, andfishsauceandcontinuetosauteonmediumheatabout6minutes,stirringoccasionally.

2smallclovesgarlic

Crush the garlic and add to themixture in the skillet.Stirwelltomix.Continuetosauteonmediumhighheatanotherminute,stirringoccasionally.Returnbeeftotheskillet.Roast the sesame seed (see page 19) and crushslightlywithmortarandpestletobringoutalltheflavor.They should be roasted and crushed just before using.Addto thebambooshootsandbeef,stirwellandcookjustafewseconds.Removefromheatimmediately.

3heapingtbsp.crushedsesameseed

Roast thesesameseed(seepage19)andcrushslightlywithmortarandpestle tobringoutall the flavor.Theyshouldberoastedandcrushedjustbeforeusing.Addtothe bamboo shoots and beef, stir well and cook just a

fewseconds.Removefromheatimmediately.TOSERVE

Serve hot, with rice and green salad. This can bereheatedbeforeserving.Canberefrigeratedforseveraldays,andreheated;orfrozenforfutureuse.

BEEFANDSQUASH FourservingsInVietnamtheChineseseekwasquashisusedinthisrecipe.Zucchinisquashisdifferentinflavor,butaveryacceptablesubstitute.Aheartydish.bladeroast1tbsp.cookingoilLargeheavyskillet

Cuttheonionintofourpieces.Cutthegreenonionsinto2-inchlengths,topsandall.Slicethebeefthin(¼-inch)againstthegrain,soitwillbetender, inpiecesabout1by3inches.

bladeroast1tbsp.cookingoilLargeheavyskillet

Heattheoilintheheavyskillet,onhighheat.Sautetheonionandgreenonionabouthalfaminuteonhighheatthenadd theslicedbeef.Saute, stirring,onhighheataminute or less—just until the beef begins to turn graybutismostlystillpink.Removefromtheskilletandsetaside.

2largezucchinisquash(asubstituteforChineseseekwa)

Peel thesquash, leavingonafewnarrowstripsofskinforcolor.Cutintoslightlylargerthanfinger-sizechunksabout2or3incheslong.Setaside.

12-oz.pkg.(orless)beanthread

Warmwatertocover

Soakthebeanthreadinwarmwatertocoveratleast10minutes.Drainbeforeusing,andchop into4or5 inchlengths,usingshearsoraheavyknife.

1clovegarlic2tbsp.cookingoil

Usingthesameskillet,heattheoilonhighheat.Crushthegarlicandsauteonhighheatafewseconds,untiltheodorrises.Addthezucchinisquashandstir.Reducetheheat to medium and cover. Saute about 1 minute,removingthecovertostirseveraltimes.

1clovegarlic2tbsp.cookingoil

Mix thewater, salt, and fish sauce together andadd tothe squash. Stir well, cover and continue to cook onmediumheatabout5minutes.Squashshouldbetenderbut not too soft. Add the drained bean thread and stirwell.

½cupwater¼tsp.salt1tbsp.fishsauce

Mix the cornstarch with the water, to keep it fromgetting lumpy.Add to the squash and stir lightly.Addthe sauteed beef, stir, and cook just a few seconds.Removefromheat,sothebeefwon'tgettoughandthesquashwon'tgetsoft.

TOSERVEServe hot with rice and a salad. Can be served as anaccompanimenttoanothermaindish.Thisisbestservedright from the stove. It can be reheated, but the meatmight get tough. Not too good frozen—the squashdisintegratesandthebeeftoughens.

BEEFANDBAMBOOSAUTE Fourservings

This is amazingly fast to prepare andwill disappear almost as fastwhen it isserved.½lb.beefsirloin1shallot(orwhitepartofgreenonion)

Slicethebeefthin(1/8-inch)againstthegrain,inpiecesabout 1 inch wide and 2 or 3 inches long. Slice theshallotinthinrounds.

1tbsp.cookingoilLargeheavyskillet1tbsp.fishsauce15-oz.canbambooshoots

Heat theoil in the skilletonhighheat.Put in thebeefandthetheshallotandsaute,stirring,about1minute.Ifcooked longer the meat will get tough. The beef willbegintochangecolorbutbemostlypink.Removefromskillet,addfishsaucetothebeef,stirwell,andsetaside.

15-oz.canbambooshoots

Be sure to get Chinese bamboo shoots—the flavor isbetter for this dish. Slice the bamboo shoots thin (1/8-inch), in pieces 1 or 2 inches wide and 2 or 3 incheslong. Because of the shape of the bamboo shoots, thepieceswillbequiteirregularinshape.

2tbsp.cookingoilIn the same skillet used to saute the beef, heat thecooking oil on high heat. Add the bamboo shoots andsauteonhighheat,stirring,about1minute.

1clovegarlic¼tsp.salt

Crushthecloveofgarlic,makeaspaceinthecenterofthe skillet and drop it in. Sprinkle the salt over.Whenthegarlicbeginstogiveoutwithagarlickysmell,afterafewseconds,addthebeefandstirwell.

¼cupwater1tsp.cornstarch

Mixthewaterandcornstarch,andpourintothebeefandbamboomixture.Stirwell,cookafewsecondsuntilthejuice thickens slightly and remove from heat. Do notovercook—themeatgetstoughifcookedtoolong.

TOSERVEServe hot with rice, soup, and salad. This may bereheated, but is best freshly cooked. If frozen, thawbeforewarming.

BEEFANDGREENBEANSAUTE FourservingsThisisanotherquick-and-easy,nutritiousdishthatisgoodservedasamaindishforalightmeal,orasasidedishataheavierdinner.2lb.freshgreenbeans(substitute:2pkg.frozenFrench-cutgreenbeans)

Wash the green beans and slice each bean in halflengthwise, then into 2 or 3 inch lengths. (If desired,frozen French-cut beansmay be used.) The beanswillnot be as sweet or as crisp, though. If using frozenbeans,defrostslightlybeforeusing,andadddirectly tothe beef in the skillet, omitting the step following thisone.

Largeskillet4cupswater1tsp.salt

Bringthewaterandsalt toaboil intheskilletandaddthefreshbeans.Bringtoaboilagain,removefromheatanddraininacolanderimmediately.Setaside.Omitthisstepifusingfrozenbeans.

1lb.beefsirloinorchuckbladeroast2shallots(orwhite

partofgreenonions)

Slice the beef thin (¼-inch) across the grain in piecesabout2inchessquare.Slicetheshallotsinthinrounds.

2tbsp.cookingoilInthesameskilletusedtoblanchthebeans,heattheoil.Put in the sliced beef and shallots and saute, stirringconstantly, on high heat for about oneminute, or untilthebeefbegins to changecolorbut is still partlypink.Donotovercook.Removefromtheskilletandsetaside.

2tbsp.cookingoilUsing the same skillet, heatmore cooking oil on highheat. Put in the drained beans, reduce the heat tomedium and cook about one minute, stirringoccasionally.

½tsp.saltAddthesalt,stirwell,andcookonemoreminute.

1clovegarlicCrushthegarlicwell.Makeavacantspotinthemiddleof the skilletwhere the beans are cooking and drop inthegarlic.Cook a few seconds, or until you can smellthegarlicodor,thenstirin.Continuetocook3minutes,onmediumheat,stirringoccasionally.

1tbsp.fishsauceAddthefishsauce,stirwell.Add the cookedbeef, stirwell, and remove fromheat.Shouldbeservedimmediately.

TOSERVEServehot,withrice.Canbereheated,but thebeefwillgettoughandthebeanssoggy.Reheatbysautemethod,onhighheat,stirringforaminuteorso,justuntilhot.

VIETNAMESEBEEFANDCABBAGE FourservingsThisisquiteaswitchonthecornedbeefandcabbagefamiliartosomanyinthe

Westernworld.It takesonlyafewminutestoprepare,andthecabbagedoesn'thave time to get limp,much less begin to smell like cooked cabbage.Agoodquickdinner,andnotexpensivetoprepare.½lb.chuckbladeroast

Cutbeefinthin(1/8-inch)slices,about1inchwideand2incheslong.

1shallot(orwhitepartofgreenonion)

Sliceshallotinthinroundsandaddtothebeef.Largeskillet1tbsp.cookingoil

Heat the cooking oil on high heat, then saute the beefand shallot, stirring constantly until the beef begins tochangecolorbutisstillmostlypink(aboutoneminute).Removefromtheskilletandsetaside.

1medium-sizeheadofcabbage

Cutthecabbageinhalforfourths,removethehardpartofthestem,thencutfine(orshred)asforcabbageslaw.

1tbsp.cookingoilHeat theoil in thesameskillet,andsaute thecabbage,stirringconstantly,onmediumheatfor2minutes.

1clovegarlicCrushthegarlic,chopfine,andstirintothecabbage.

1or2freshtomatoes

Cut the tomato in sixths. Stir into the cabbage, reducetheheattomediumlow,andcontinuetocook1minute.Stirinthebeef.

1tbsp.fishsauce¼tsp.salt

Addthefishsauceandsalt,continuetostironmediumheatabouthalfaminute.

¼cupwater½tsp.cornstarch

Mixthewaterandcornstarch,thenstirintothebeefandcabbage. This gives a soupy gravy. Turn the heat tohigh,stirforabouthalfaminuteandremovefromheat.

TOSERVEServehot,withrice,andasalad.Canberefrigeratedandreheated.Leftoverscanbefrozen,butthemeatwillnotbe so tender and the cabbage will be limp. If frozen,thawbeforereheating.

NOODLESWITHSLICEDBEEF(SAUTE) FourservingsThisisavariationoftheprecedingrecipe,anditisanothergoodone-dishmeal.Itshouldbeservedwithallingredientscoldexceptthesauteedbeefstrips,whichshouldbehot.1lb.chuckbladeroast

Trim off the excess fat and slice into thin (about 1/8-inch)piecesapproximately1x2inches.

1cloveofgarlic1smallonion1citronellaroot(optional)

Slice the garlic, onion, and citronella into very thincircles.(Ifcitronellaisnotavailable,justomit.Thereisnosubstitute,inthisrecipe.)

2tbsp.cookingoilMedium-sizedskillet

Heattheoil, thensautethegarlic,onion,andcitronellaover high heat about one minute, stirring constantly.Addtheslicedbeef,continuetosauteandstiroverhighheatanothertwominutesorso.Thebeefshouldstillbeslightly pink in spots butwillmostly have changed itscolor.Donotovercook—itgetstough.

TOSERVESubstitutethissauteedbeefforthegroundbeefmixtureintherecipeonpage65,andproceedasdirectedthere.

BEEFSOUP-SALAD(PHOBO) About10ServingsThisone-dishmealisafavoriteinNorthVietnam,andistheonethingthatmostVietnameseinaforeigncountrymissthemost.It iscookedinlargequantities,andshouldeitherbepreparedforacrowdorrefrigeratedandservedasleftovers.The final step is completed rapidly, bowl by bowl for each individual servingandcanbedoneatthetablewithanelectricsouppot,oronanelectrichotplateonthebuffet.Besuretohavealltheslicingdoneinadvance.Variationsofthisrecipeusingchickenandporkareonpages84and52.10lbs.soupbonesandbeefribswithmeatVerylargesouppot1½tbsp.saltWatertocoverandmore

Put thebones and ribs in the large souppot and coverwith water—fill the pot almost full, leaving room forboiling.Addthesalt.

2largeonions1cinnamonstick1freshgingerroot,about3incheslong(optional)

Chop the onions coarsely. Crush the cinnamon stick.Slicethegingerrootinthinrounds.Addalltothesouppot.Putthepotonhighheatandbringtoaboil.Reducetheheattolowandsimmerallday,orallnight,ifyouhavetowork during the day.Addmorewater, if necessary,becauselotsofitwillboilaway.

3greenonions1pkg.Chinese

noodles(lookfun,page17)

Cut thegreenonions in 4-inch lengths, including tops.Putintothesoupabout1hourbeforeserving.

1pkg.Chinesenoodles(lookfun,page17)

If fresh noodles are available, slice in ½-inch widestrips.Ifdriednoodlesareused,soakthedrynoodlesfor2 hours in warm water to cover. Then boil about 5minutes,oruntiltender.Besurethenoodlesarecookedbefore beginning the following steps—you just warmthemup,atservingtime.

SERVINGDIRECTIONSDeepsoupbowlsChopsticksSoupspoons1lb.freshbeansproutsLargepot3qts.waterLong-handledstrainer

Get everything ready, and ask people to come and beservedbeforestartingtodothecookinginthefollowingsteps.Besurealltheslicingisdone,andeverythingislaid out ready to serve. If each person watches hisservingbeingprepared,hecanpreparehisownseconds—most people think it is great fun! Mix the cookednoodleswiththebeansprouts.Bringthewatertoaboilinthepot.Putaboutacupfulofthenoodle-beansproutmixture in a long-handled strainer and dip into theboiling water for about a minute—just to blanch thebeansproutsandwarmthenoodles.Putinthebottomofanindividualsoupbowl.

3largetomatoes

3largeonions1lb.chuckbladeroastorsirloin(tender)

Cutthetomatoesinhalf,fromthestemenddown,thenslice thin across. Cut the onion the same way, slicingverythin.Slicethebeefthin(1/8-inch), inpiecesabout½inchwideand1or2incheslong.Placealltheseonaplateorplatter,arrangedseparately.Betterhavereservesifyouhavepeoplewithlargeappetites!

LargeladleChopsticks

Putafewpiecesofthebeef,acoupleofslicesoftomatoand a couple of slices of onion in the large ladle.Immersetheladleintotheboilingsoup,stirgentlywiththe chopsticks for aminuteor less—just until thebeefbeginstochangecolor.Itshouldstillbepink.Thenliftout the ladle, soup and all, and pour over the noodlesandbeansprouts.

ChineseparsleyFishsauce

Garnish with Chinese parsley, and put in about ateaspoonfuloffishsauce,ifneeded,forsaltyflavor.

FishsauceLimeorlemonChilipepper

Servewithasidedish(small)offishsaucetobeusedtoadd salty flavor according to individual taste. Servelargeslicesof limeor lemonandsmall shredsof freshchilipepper,forindividualgarnish.

BEEFSAUTEANDSTEAMEDBREAD FourservingsThisisakindofVietnamesesandwich.InVietnamwhereFrenchbreadhasbeenmuch used formany years, this easy dish is very popular.Any type ofwhitebreadmaybeused.12slicesofwhite

bread(French,orsandwich)Steamer

See page 10 for detailed instructions on the use of thesteamer,andsubstitutesifyoudonothaveone.Puttheslicesofbreadinthetoppartofthesteamer,notpackedtightly,butarrangedloosely,lyingflat,sothesteamcancirculate between the pieces. Put over boilingwater inthe steamer bottom, cover and steam for about 5minutes. Leave in the steamer, covered, until ready toserve. The bread should be soft enough to roll upwithoutbreaking,andshouldbewarmwhenserved.

1lb.tenderbeef(sirloinorchuckbladeroast)2citronellaroots(substitutegingerroot,oromit)2clovesgarlic1onion(mediumsize)

Slicethebeefthin(1/8-inch)inpiecesabout1inchwideand2incheslong.Cutthecitronellarootinthinrounds.If substitute ginger, chop very fine. Slice the garliccloves inpaper-thinrounds.Cut theonioninhalffromstemenddown,thenslicethin.

Heavyskillet2tbsp.cookingoil

Heat the oil on high heat. Put in the sliced beef, thecitronellaorginger,garlic,andonionandsauteonhighheat, stirring constantly, about 2 minutes. Do notovercook—thebeefshouldstillhaveafewpinkspots.

½cupOnionOil(page28)½cuproastedpeanuts

(saltedorunsalted)Put threeslicesofbreadoneach individualplate.Pourabout1tsp.ofOnionOilovereachsliceofbread.Thendivide the cookedbeefmixture into four parts andputone fourth over the bread on each plate. Chop thepeanutscoarselyandsprinkleoverthetop.

TOSERVELeaflettuceChineseparsleyFreshmintleavesNuocMamSauce

Serve hot, with individual small bowls for the NuocMamSaucedip.Eating instructionsshouldbegiven inadvance.This iseatenwith thehands, likeasandwich.Roll up a slice of bread,with the beefmixture inside,alongwithsomeChineseparsleyandmintleaves.Thenwrap the slice in a lettuce leaf, dip into NUOC MAMSAUCE(page23),andeat.

NOODLESWITHBEEFANDVEGETABLES FourservingsMeasurethevegetablesafterslicingorcutting.1cup(loosepack)Chinesecabbage(orplainheadcabbage)1carrot1cup(loosepack)cauliflower½cupChinesepeas(orFrenchcutgreenbeans)

Cut the cabbage into medium-sized pieces. If Chinesecabbage is used, slice the stem pieces also. Cut thecarrot in long slices, about 1/8-inch thick and 2 or 3inches long.Cut the cauliflower flowerets in halves or

thirds. Try to get similar sizes. The Chinese peas (orFrench-cutgreenbeans)maybefreshorfrozen.

Deeppot¼tsp.salt3cupswater

Bring thewater toaboil in thedeeppot,put inall thevegetables and the salt and bring to a boil oncemore.After it boils again, start timing and cook about 2minutes. Remove from heat and drain well. Thevegetables should be almost dry when used in thefollowingsteps.Boilingquicklybringsouttheflavorofthe vegetables andmakes it easy to saute a short timeandyethavethemtender.Reservethewaterusedtoboilthevegetables.Itisgoodinsoup.

1lb.topsirloin(orothersimilarbeef)1shallot(orwhitepartofagreenonion)½medium-sizedonion

Slicebeefagainstthegrainsoitwillbetender.Cutintothin (1/8-inch) strips, about 1 x 2 inches. Slice theshallotandonioninthinrounds.

2tbsp.cookingoilLargeskillet

Heat the cookingoil in the skillet, onhighheat.Sautethe onion and shallot, stirring, about ½ minute—justuntil limp, but not brown. Add the beef and saute onhighheat,toturngray.Itshouldstillbeslightlypink.Ifitisovercookeditwillbetough.Takethebeefoutoftheskilletandsetaside.

1shallot(orwhitepartofagreenonion)6mediumlargemushrooms

1stalkcelerySlice the shallot in thin rounds.Cut themushrooms inhalf,orinquartersiflargeronesareused.Cuttheceleryinangledslices,about1or2incheslong.

2tbsp.cookingoilHeat the oil in the same skillet used to saute the beef.Sautetheshallotabout½minute,onhighheat,stirring.Thenadd themushroomsandceleryandsaute,stirringconstantlyabout2moreminutes.

¼tsp.salt2tbsp.fishsauce1cupchickenbroth(orsubstitutewater)Dashofmonosodiumglutamate

Add the salt, fish sauce, and chicken broth or plainwater to the vegetables in the skillet. Bring to a boil,over highheat, then add the beef and stirwell tomix.Let the mixture boil just about 1 minute then removefromheat.Keepwarmuntilserved.

½pkg.lookfunnoodles(page17)2qts.warmwater

Soak thenoodles2hours,oruntil soft.Bring toaboiland boil 5minutes.Drain and rinsewith cold runningwater tocoolandseparate thenoodles.Drainwell inacolander.

3tbsp.cookingoilLargeheavyskillet

Heat the cooking oil in the large skillet, and saute thenoodles on high heat about 5 minutes, stirring gentlywith a spatula or chopsticks. Keep everything scrapedloosefromthebottom.There should be some slightly crisped portions. Keep

warmuntilserved.TOSERVE4deepbowlsNuocMamSauce

Dividethenoodlesintofourths,andplaceeachfourthinadeepChinesenoodlebowl,asoupbowl,orotherdeepdish.Spoonthebeefmixtureoverthetop.Eachpersonstirs his ownportion tomix.Servewith a sidedishofNUOCMAMSAUCE(page23)forseasoning.

NOODLESWITHGROUNDBEEF FourservingsThis is a one-bowl meal, very good for hot weather when served with allingredientscold.Foravariationusingslicedbeef,seethefollowingrecipe.1smallonion1mediumChineseyam(substitute:kohlrabi,page13)½lb.groundbeef1tbsp.cookingoilDashofblackpepper

ChoptheonionandtheChineseyamveryfine.Heattheoil in skillet and saute, over high heat, the choppedonionandyam,withthegroundbeef,stirringconstantlyuntildone(about5minutes;donotovercook).Sprinkleblackpepperontopaftercooked.Maybeservedhotorcold.

2-qt.pot1pkg.somennoodles(page18)4cupsboilingwater

Ifyoucan'tfindtheJapanesesomennoodlesanywhere,

narrowAmerican-stylenoodlesmaybesubstituted.Butthe dishwill be different. Cook the noodles in boilingwaterabout5to8minutes.Besuretolowertheheattomediumafternoodlesbeginto boil so the pot won't bubble over. No salt or otherseasoning,please.Whentender,draininacolanderandrinse with cold water until noodles are cool and notsticky.Setaside.

2cupsleaflettuce½mediumcucumber½cupfreshbeansprouts(optional)FreshmintleavesChineseparsley(severalsprigs)(page13)

Choplettuceleavesintopiecesabout1inchsquare.Cutthe cucumber lengthwise into about4 slices, then sliceacross into very thin pieces. Wash bean sproutsthoroughlyincoldwateranddrainwell.ChopthemintleavesandtheChineseparsleycoarsely.Chineseparsleymay be omitted, but don't substitute regular Americanparsley.Theflavorisverydifferent.Mixallthesegreenvegetablestogether,likeasalad.

4tbsp.roastedpeanuts

Chop thepeanutscoarsely, justbeforeserving.Besuretoservethe"dust"also,sincethatcontainsmuchoftheflavorandaroma.Don'tuseprechoppednuts.

TOSERVE4deepsoupbowls

In each of four individual bowls (medium-size soupbowls) put one-fourth of themixed vegetables.Dividethecoldnoodlesintofourportionsandputontopofthesalad.Dividethecookedmeatmixtureintofourportionsandputontopofthenoodles.Themeatmixturemaybe

servedhotorcold.Everythingelseshouldbecold.4tbsp.NuocMamSauce4tbsp.OnionOil

Pourone tbsp.NUOCMAMSAUCE (page23) over eachserving. More may be added according to individualtaste.Pouraboutonetbsp.ofONIONOIL(page28)overeachserving.Sprinklethefreshlychoppedpeanutsoverthetop,andserve.

EATINGINSTRUCTIONS

Eachpersonstirshisbowlfulbeforeeating.Ifnotsaltyenough,addmoreNuocMamSauce—neveraddsalt.

SEAFOODMAINDISHESINTHISCHAPTERarerecipesusingfish,shrimp,crab,andevenanunusualwayofpreparingsquid.SinceVietnamhassucha longseacoast,seafoodsareamajoritem in thediet.But since the fish andother seafood recipes are among thoseleastlikedbynon-orientalforeigners,onlyasamplingisincludedinthisbook.

SHRIMPSAUTE FourservingsThisisanotherrealappetiteteaser.Itisgoodpicnicfare.InVietnamitistakenontripsorpicnicsalongwithaflatcakeofcookedrice—plainboiledricethathasbeenpattedoutintoaflat,firmcakeandwhichisslicedintopiecesjustlikebreadorcakewhenreadytoeat.1lb.fresh(frozen)whiteshrimp

Wash the shrimp and remove the shells, leaving onecenter portion of the shell about½ to¾-inchwide oneach shrimp. This keeps each shrimp in the originalcurvedshrimpshape,keepsthemseparateandfirm,andmakessomethingniceandcrunchytochewon.

1tsp.saltDashofpepper2greenonions

Cut the green onions in 2-inch lengths, including thetops.Add to the shrimp,with the salt and pepper, andshakewelltomix.

Smallskillet2tbsp.porkfat(orcookingoil)

Slicetheporkfat intosmall, thinpieces.Notethatit iseasiertoslicewhenitischilled.Usefattrimmingsfromporkchops,porkroast,boiledpork,etc.,forflavor.Iffatis not available, substitute cooking oil. Fry the fat onhigh heat, stirring, about 2 minutes. Reduce heat to

mediumandcover.Continue tocook,covered,shakingoccasionallytostir,foronemoreminute.Removefromheat.Ifusingcookingoil,itshouldbepreheated.Addtheshrimpmixturetothecookedfat,cover,shakewelltomix,putbackonhighheat.Cook,stirring,afewseconds.Reduceheattomedium,cover,andcontinuetocookaboutoneminute.

1tsp.sugar½tsp.caramelsyrup1tbsp.fishsauce

Uncover skillet, stir, add sugar and CARAMEL SYRUP(page27)andstirwell.Turnonventilatingfan,addfishsauce and stir well. Cover and cook on medium heatabout10minutes,removingcovertostiroccasionally.Remove from heat and keep covered until ready toserve.

TOSERVEServewith rice.This is salty, so if it isusedasamaindishitshouldbeservedwithsoup.Itisespeciallygoodwith SHRIMP AND PINEAPPLE SOUP (page 35) — thecombinationoftheslightlyacidpineappleandthesaltyshrimpisunbeatable.

SAFFRONFISH FourservingsAreallydifferenttypeofcurry,awonderfulwaytoservefish.1lb.freshtuna,swordfish,orotherwhitefish

Remove bones and skin, and cut fish in small pieces(about¼-inchthick,2inchessquareorless).

3shallots(orwhitepartofgreenonions)2citronellaroots

(substitute1tbsp.lemongrasspowderoromit)½tsp.saffronpowder(substituteturmeric,or1tsp.currypowder)½tsp.salt1tsp.fishsauceChilipeppertotaste(optional)

Slice the shallots and the citronella in thin rounds.Combinewiththefish,alongwiththesaffron,salt,fishsauce, and, optionally, some chili pepper, If fresh chilipepper is used, chop fine or crush.Mix togetherwell.Letstandfor20or30minutestoseason.

Heavyskillet2tbsp.cookingoil1smallcloveofgarlic

Heat the cooking oil in skillet on high heat.Crush thegarlic clove and saute a few seconds, until the odorrises.Reduce theheat tomedium,add the fishmixtureandsauteabout2minutes,stirringgentlysothefishwillnotbreak.

½cupcoconutmilk(page26)(substitute:3tbsp.heavycream)

Addthecoconutmilk(orheavycream),andstirgently.Cookabout2minutesovermediumheat.Removefromheat,andservewarm.

TOSERVEServewithrice,asoup,andasalad.Shouldbespooned

overtherice,withplentyofjuice.

SHRIMPANDBAMBOOSTEW Fourservings7or8medium-sizefresh(frozen)whiteshrimp

Hulltheshrimp,washwell,andsliceinhalflengthwise,removingtheblackveinfromthebackatthesametime.

1tsp.saltRubthesaltintotheshrimpwell,thenwashthoroughlyagain.Thesalthelpstocleantheshrimp.

1-lb.canbambooshoots

Drain the bamboo shoots and slice in varying sizes,aboutinchthick.

Deeppot4tbsp.lard(orcookingoil)1tsp.Chineseshrimpsauce(page20)Dashcayennepepper1½cupswater½tsp.salt

Puttheshrimp,bambooshoots,andallotheringredientsin a deep pot. (Lard is preferred in Vietnam for theflavor it adds. Bring to a boil and cook on high heat,uncovered,about20minutes.

TOSERVEServehot,withriceandgreensalad.

CURRIEDSHRIMP FourservingsCurryispopularthroughoutSouthandSoutheastAsia.Thisparticularcurryisareal taste treat. The combination of flavorings disguise the fishy taste of theshrimp.CURRYFLAVORING1heapingtsp.currypowder1tsp.salt1tsp.paprikaDashofallspicetsp.(scant)cayenneDashofblackpepper1tsp.saffronpowder(optional)1pinchcinnamon(or1-inchpiecestickcinnamon)

The plain curry powder only gives the nice smell andpart of the nice color—the other seasonings add thespecial flavor.This has amuch richer color and flavorthan is usually seen outside the Far East's traditionalcurry-eatingcountries.Thepaprikaandsaffronpowderadd a richness of color that is missing in commercialcurry powder. However, even commercial saffronpowderisusuallyoldenoughtohavelostthestrengthofitscolor.InVietnamthesaffronrootisgroundfreshandit gives a warm golden glow to the curry. Freshcitronellaisanotherthingthathasnorealsubstitute.Itisavailableinsomecosmopolitanareas,andbyallmeanstrytofindit;butifyoucan't,makethecurryanyway.

1lb.fresh(frozen)whiteshrimp

Useonlywhiteshrimp.Shellanddeveintheshrimp.To

devein,slittheoutsidebackcurveoftheshrimpwithasharpknife,abouthalfwaythroughtheshrimp.Removeanddiscardasmuchoftheblackveinasyoucangetouteasily. It is harmless but somepeople object to it.Theslicedopenbackwillcausetheshrimptoopenoutwhencooked, and it will look nicer and absorbmore of thecurryflavor.

1freshcitronellaroot(optional)

Sliceinthinrounds,thenchopwell.Addtotheshrimp,with the curry flavoring powder.Omit the citronella ifnot available. There is no substitute except powderedlemongrass,whichisalsohardtofind.

2shallots(orwhitepartofgreenonions)

Slicetheshallotsinthinroundsandaddtotheshrimp.Deeppotwithlid2tbsp.cookingoil

Heat the oil on high heat, reduce heat tomedium andaddtheshrimpmixture.Cookonmediumheat,stirring,about5minutes.

1½cupscoolwater1tbsp.fishsauce

Rinseoutthecontainerinwhichyoumixedtheshrimpand seasonings, and pour the rinse water into the potwith the shrimp mixture. Add the fish sauce, and stirwell. Increase the heat to high, bring to a boil, and letboilabout1minute.Reducetheheattomedium.

1tbsp.cornstarchMix a little of the hot liquid with the cornstarch andblend well, then add to the shrimp mixture. This willkeepthecornstarchfrombecominglumpy.Stirwellandcookanotherminuteortwo.

¼cupcoconutmilkIf fresh coconut milk or frozen coconut milk are not

available,makesomecoconutmilkusingtherecipeonpage 26. Add to shrimp mixture, stir well, and cookanother5minutes.Ifthesauceisnotquitethickenough,addalittlemorecornstarch,usingthemethoddescribedabove. It should not be pasty, but should be a littlethickerthanwater.

TOSERVEServewith lotsof riceornoodles,andagreensalad ifdesired.Noothercondimentsarenecessary.ChutneyisnoteatenwithcurryinVietnam.

FRIEDSHRIMPINTOMATOSAUCE FourservingsThismakesanexcellenthorsd'oeuvre,iftheshrimparecutintobite-sizepieces;itisalsoverypopularasamaindish.2lb.fresh(frozen)whiteshrimp

Shell the shrimp, and split along the back so eachshrimp may be opened out flat. Use medium-sizedshrimp;thesmalloneswon'tbeasgood.

Colanderorstrainer1tsp.salt

Puttheshrimpinacolanderorstrainerandsprinklethesalt over them. Rub the salt inwell, to help clean theshrimp. Then wash under cool running water, rubbinggentlywiththehandstocleanthoroughly.

½cupflour½cupwater¼tsp.sugar1tsp.saltDashofblackpepper

Mix the flour,water, sugar, salt andpepper together toformathinbatter.

2greenonions

Slice the green onions in very thin rounds, includingmostofthetops.Addtothethinbatterandmixinwell.Putthecleanedshrimpintothebatter—justdumptheminalltogether,andstirgentlytobesurethateachshrimpgets well coated with batter. Leave them in the batteruntilyouarereadytocookthem.

CookingoilHeavyskilletorpot

Pour enough cooking oil into a heavy skillet or pot tomake the oil about¾ inch deep. Heat the fat on highheat. Dip the shrimp out of the batter with a spoon,dipping out a little extra batter with each shrimp, andslidegentlyintothehotfat.Frytheshrimponhighheat,about 2 or 3 minutes on each side, or until goldenbrown.Removetoawirecakecoolerorsimilarracktodrainofftheexcessoil.Reserve,uncovered,until readyto serve.Note:This thin batter gets crisper and has abetter taste than a thicker batter. If the shrimp arecovered,theywillsteamandmakethebattercoatinggetsoggy.

THESAUCE5pickledleeks2clovesgarlic

Slicethepickledleeksinthinsliceslengthwise.Ifleeksare not available, pickled onions may be substituted.Crushthegarlicthoroughly.

Deeppot3tbsp.cookingoil

Heatthecookingoilinadeeppot,onhighheat.Putinthepickledleeksandgarlic,stirwell,andsauteonhighheatabout1minute,shakingthepotoccasionally.Whenthegarlicodorbeginstorise,goontothenextstep.

8-oz.cantomatosauce(Spanishstyle)

Add the tomato sauce to the garlic and pickled leeks.Cook on high heat, stirring occasionally, about 3

minutes.1tsp.cornstarch1cupwater

Mixthecornstarchandwater,andaddtothesauce.Stirwellandcontinuecookingabout1minute.

1tbsp.fishsauceAdd the fish sauce, stir and bring to a boil. Removefromheat.

TOSERVEHeat the sauce to a boil, drop in the shrimp andimmediately remove from theheat.Serve in abowloron adeepplate, garnishedwith lettuceorparsley.Canalsobeeatenoverrice,orasacocktailsnack.

SHRIMPINTOMATOSAUCE Fourservings1lb.largeredshrimp

Shellshrimp,washclean,andsliceopenthebackabouthalf way through so the shrimp will open out whencooked.Remove asmuchof the vein as possible. It isnotharmful,butnotpretty,either.

½tsp.salt2greenonionsDashofblackpepper

Chop the green onions in 2-inch lengths, tops and all.Mixtheonions,saltandpepperwiththeshrimpandletstandabout10minutesormore.

Deepheavypotwithcover3tbsp.porkfat(on2tbsp.cookingoil)

Useapot that isnot toobigaroundso thesaucewon'tallboilaway.Chilltheporkfat(scrapsfromporkchops,

porkroast,etc.)andsliceinthinsmallpieces.Sautefatindeeppotonmediumhighheatuntilthegreasecomesout.Add the shrimp to the oil in the pot and saute onmediumheatabout5minutes,stirringoften.

⅓cuptomatosauce(Spanishstyle)½cupwater1tbsp.fishsauce

Mix tomato sauce, water, and fish sauce together andadd to the shrimp in the deep pot. Bring to a boil onmedium high heat, cover and reduce heat to very low.Cook about 10 minutes. Remove from heat and servesoon.

TOSERVEServehot,with rice and salad.The sauce is good, too.Canbereheated.

SHRIMPANDGREENBEANSAUTE Fourservings1lb.freshgreenbeans

This is a simple andquickdishwhichmaybeusedasthe main dish for a simple meal, or as one of severaldishesforalargedinner.Washthebeans,thensliceeachbean inhalf lengthwise.Cut thebeans into3-or4-inchlengths. If soft-cooked beans are preferred, frozenFrench cut beans may be used, slightly thawed. Thecrispness and sweetness of the fresh beans, however,makesthisanentirelydifferentdish.

4-qt.pot2qts.water

Bring water to a boil, then immerse the beans in thewaterinalong-handledstrainerifyouhaveone.Bringtotheboilagain,andcookabout1minute,oruntil thebeans change color, becoming greener. Remove fromthe boiling water at once and drain thoroughly. Set

aside.Omitthisstepifusingfrozenbeans.½lb.fresh(frozen)whiteshrimp½tsp.salt

Shell the shrimp and rub the salt in thoroughly. Thishelpscleantheshrimp.Sliceeachshrimpalmostinhalf,cuttingthroughtheback.Rinsewell,untilclean,undercoolrunningwater.

½tsp.salt¼tsp.blackpepper

Mixthesaltandpepperwiththeshrimp.1smallonion1tbsp.cookingoilHeavyskillet

Slice theonionvery thin.Heat thecookingoilonhighheat,thenputintheonion.Sauteafewseconds,stirring,untiltheonionsmellbeginstocomeout.Putintheshrimp,reducetheheattomedium,andsauteabout2minutes,stirringoften.Add the sliced green beans and continue to saute onmediumheatabout5minutesmore.

2tbsp.water2tsp.fishsauce

Mixinthewaterandfishsauce,cookonemoreminuteandremovefromheat.Ifyouprefersofterbeans,insteadofcrispones,add1/3cuPwaterandcontinuetocookonlowheatanother3minutes.

TOSERVEServehot,withrice.Canbereheated,butismuchbetterifeatenassoonasitiscooked.

SHRIMPFRIEDRICE FourservingsHereisanothervariationoftheever-popularfriedrice,whichissuchafavoriteway in the orient for using leftover rice. This may be made with all newingredients,orcombinedwithleftovers.

12medium-sizedfresh(frozen)whiteshrimp

Hull the shrimp, then slice each one in two or threesliceslengthwise,cleaningouttheblackveinalongthebackatthesametime.

1mediumonion2clovesgarlic

Cut the onion in half, then in thin slices. Smash thegarlic.

Heavyskillet3tbsp.cookingoil

Preheattheoilonhighheat.Dropinthegarlicandsautefor a few seconds, until the characteristic odor rises.Then add the shrimp slices and onion slices. Saute,stirringconstantly,onhighheatabout2minutes.

2cupscookedriceSince almost everyVietnamese household has leftoverrice, this isasimple ingredient.Youmayhave tocookthe rice fresh, but it is better cold when used in thisrecipe.Reducetheheat tomedium,put intherice,andstirwell, lifting from the bottomwith a spatula. Cookabout3minutes.

2largefreshtomatoes

Cutthetomatoesineighthsandaddtothemixtureintheskillet.Stirgently,liftingfromthebottom.Cookabout2minutesmore.

1tbsp.fishsauceDashofblackpepper¼tsp.salt

Add the fish sauce, salt and pepper, sprinkling lightlyoverthetopofthemixtureintheskillet.Stirwell.Turnofftheheat.

TOSERVEServe hot, with leaf lettuce, fresh mint and ChineseparsleyandasidedishofNUOCMAMSAUCE(page23).

QUICKSTEAMEDCRABLOAF FourservingsAnewvarietyofmeatloafthatisquick,easy,andmakesarealcompanydish.Thisiscalled"quick"becausetherecipesforshrimploafandfishloafinvolvemoretimeforgettingthefishorshrimpintopasteform.Thismakesagoodmaindish,andisgoodforadinnerpartybecauseeverythingexceptthesteamingcanbedonewellinadvance.Thesteamingmaybedoneduringthehalfhourbeforedinner; or itmaybe finishedbefore theguests arrive andkeptwarmover hotwater.2tbsp.driedtreefungus(optional,page20.)4-oz.pkg.beanthreadWarmwatertocover

Soak the tree fungus and the bean thread separatelyabout 10minutes inwarmwater to cover. Cut off thehardorspeckledportionofthetreefunguswhereitwasattached to the tree. Drain both bean thread and treefunguswell,andchopcoarselywithknifeorshears.

2shallots(orwhitepartofgreenonions)½lb.leangroundpork

Slicetheshallotsinthinrounds.Mixwiththepork.Addthe chopped tree fungus and bean thread, and mixtogetherwell.

3or4oz.cannedorfreshcrabmeat

Flake the crab meat and add to the pork mixture,kneadingwiththehandstomixwell.

3eggsMix2eggsandanadditionaleggwhiteslightlywithafork, and add to the porkmixture.Reserve 1 egg yolkforthefinalstep.

¼tsp.blackpepper¼tsp.salt2tbsp.fishsauce

Addthesalt,pepperandfishsaucetotheporkandcrabmixtureandmixwell.Themixtureshouldbelooseandalmostfluffy.

SteamerFlat10-inchheat-resistantdish(besureitfitssteamer)

Placethecrabandporkmixtureinaheatresistantdish,pat out flat, and put into the top of the steamer. Forinstructionsontheuseofthesteamerseepage10.Bringwatertoaboilinthebottomsectionofthesteamer.Putthe top section of the steamer, with the dish of crabmixture inside, in place over the boiling water, cover,and steamonhighheatuntil the loaf is firm (25 to30minutes).Uncoverthesteamer,turnofftheheatandblottheexcessmoisturefromthetopoftheloafwithapapertowel.Becarefulnot togetasteamburn.Mix theeggyolk(reservedearlier)slightlywithafork,andbrushallofitontothetopofthecake.Letitsit,uncovered,inthesteamer for aminuteor sountil theyolkbegins togetfirm.Do not cover the steamer again, or the yolkwillgettoohardandwilltakeonan"eggy"taste.

TOSERVENuocMamSauce

Servehotwithrice,greensalad,andasoup.ServeasidedishofNUOCMAMSAUCE(page23)todiptheloafinto,bite by bite. This is good servedwith leaf lettuce andfreshmint leaves. Take a bite-size portion of the crabloaf,wrap it ina lettuce leafwithamint leaf,dip intotheNuocMamSauce,andeatwithabiteofrice.

GREENBEAN,CRABANDMUSHROOMSAUTE FourservingsThismakesagoodaccompanimentforaheartydinner,but it isalsogoodasalightsummermealoraluncheondish.1lb.freshorfrozengreenbeans(substitute:1cangreenbeans)4cupswaterMediumskillet3tbsp.cookingoil2shallots(orwhitepartofgreenonions)3oz.freshorfrozencrab

Slicegreenbeansinhalflengthwisethencutin2-or3-inchlengths.OrusecannedorfrozenFrench-cutgreenbeans—the Vietnamese cut them the same way. Bringwater to boil, put in beans and boil about oneminute,then drain. If canned or frozen beans are used, do notcook,justdrain.Cuttheshallotsinthinrounds.Preheatcookingoilinskilletandsauteshallotsonmediumheata few seconds, stirring. Add crab meat and saute,stirring, for 2 minutes. Canned crab meat may besubstituted,butbesuretorinseitinrunningcoldwater,inacolander,beforecooking.

10buttonmushrooms¼tsp.saltDashofpepper

Cut themushroomsinhalf.Addmushroomsandgreenbeans to thecrabmixture in the skillet and saute for5minutes on medium low heat, stirring occasionally.Sprinklesaltandpepperoverthetopandstirwell.

1tbsp.fishsauce2tbsp.coldwater

Mix fish sauce and coldwater together, andpour over

themixtureintheskillet.Stirwell.1cloveofgarlic

Crush the garlic, make a hole in the middle of themixture in the skillet and add the garlic. Let it cook afew seconds until the odor rises, then stir into themixture. Continue to cook on medium low heat for 2minutes.

TOSERVEServehotor cold, as amaindish,or as a saladwith alargerdinner.

CRABOMELET Fourservings¼lb.fresh(frozen)crabmeat1shallot(orwhitepartofagreenonion)

Clean crab meat and flake it. Slice the shallot in thinroundsandandaddtothecrabmeat.

Heavyskillet1tbsp.cookingoil

Heat oil in skillet.Add the crabmeat and shallot, andsaute over high heat about 1 minute or slightly less,stirring constantly but gently.Turnoff heat and let themixturecool in theskilletwhilebeating theeggs (nextstep).

4to6eggsThenumberofeggsdependsontheappetites,thesizeoftheeggs,andthenumberofotherdishesbeingserved,ifany.Beattheeggswithaforkuntilwellmixed,butwiththewhitestillropy.

¼tsp.salt1tsp.fishsauceDashofblackpepper

Pour crab mixture into eggs, add salt, fish sauce, andblackpepperandstirwell.

1tsp.cookingoilHeat the oil in the same heavy skillet, over mediumheat. Pour in the egg and crabmixture and stir gentlywithametalspatulaforabout1minute.Tostir,pushtheendofthespatulathroughtheeggmixturetothebottomofthepan,thenpushawayfromyouandliftslightlyatthe same time.Thispushes the cookedmixtureoff thebottomof the pan and allows the liquid top portion torundownontothebottomtobecooked.Reduce the heat to low and let the omelet sit in theskilletabout5minutes.Itshouldbefirm,slightlybrownonthebottom,butstillverysoftandpartiallyliquidontop.Foldinhalf,usingthespatula,andremovegentlytoawarmplate.

TOSERVENuocMamSauce

Servewithrice,asalad,andasoup.AsidedishofNUOCMAM SAUCE (page 23) should be served as anaccompaniment to be used to individual taste. Leaflettuce and mint leaves are especially good with this:wrapabiteoftheomeletinalettuceleafwithasprigofmint,diponeendlightlyintotheNuocMamSauce,andeatwiththefingers.

FRIEDPORKANDCRABROLLS(CHAGIO) Sixservings(52-56rolls)Thisisagooddishforcocktailsashors-d'oeuvres,orforamealinitself.Itisadeliciousdishandoneofthebest-remembereddishesofVietnam.Thericepaper(banhtrang)usedtowraptheserollscanbeboughtonlyinVietnam(ormaybeinFrance)andthereisnosubstituteforit.THESTUFFING14-oz.pkg.beanthread

Soakthebeanthreadabout10minutesinwatertocover.Drain bean thread and chop coarsely with knife or

shears.1medium-sizeChineseyam(about1lb.)

SlicetheChineseyampaper-thinwithvegetablepeeler,roughlygathertheslicesandcutintofinethreads.

5greenonions1onion½lb.groundpork1cancrabmeat(drainedandflaked)Peppertotaste

Chop fine both types of onion. Add the onion, thechoppedbeanthread, thechoppedyam,theflakedcrabmeat,andpeppertothegroundpork,andmixwellaftereachaddition.Useyourhandssothattheingredientsarethoroughlymixed.Substitute:Youcan substitute1cupofshelledanddeveinedfresh(frozen)whiteshrimpforthecrab.Chop the shrimpwellbeforemixingwith theotheringredients.

THEROLLINGRicepapers

Cut each sheetof ricepaper inhalf.Trim roughedgesoff ricepaperwithscissorsso that roughpartswillnotpokethroughthepaperwhenrollingthemixture.

1cupwater1tsp.caramelizedsugar(page27)or1tsp.darkbrownsugar

Mix water and sugar syrup (or brown sugar). Thepurposeof the sugar in thewater is tomake thepaperturn golden brown when fried. Put half circle of ricepaper on flat surface, dip your fingers in the sugaredwater then rub themoistureover the ricepapergently.Donotmake thericepaper toowet.Let thedampened

papersitwhile3or4morepiecesaredampened.Thenbeginthefilling.Fold the half-circle in half to reinforce it. Put about ateaspoonful of filling near the rounded edge in anoblong shape. Fold the sides over the filling and thenrollup,gentlybutfirmly.Puttherollaside,lyingontheexposededgeofthepaper.If theedgeisstillhard,thiswillsoftenit.Seediagramonnextpage.

THECOOKINGHeavyskilletorpotCookingoil

Pour enough cooking oil into a heavy skillet or pot tomake the oil about 1½ inches deep. Heat the oil onmediumhighheat.Sliptherollintothehotoil,therawedgesidefirstsothatthehotoilwillsealitontotheroll,then fry until golden brown. Remove to a wire cakecoolerorsimilarracktodrainofftheexcessoil.

TOSERVENuocMamSauceLeaflettuceMintleavesChineseparsleyCucumber

Servehot,with leaf lettuce, freshmint leaves,Chineseparsley, thin sliced cucumbers, and individual smallbowlsofNUOCMAMSAUCE(page23).Toeat,wraptheroll in a lettuce leaf, with mint, Chinese parsley andcucumber,anddipinthesauce.

TENDERMEAT-STUFFEDSQUID FourservingsDon'tjustassumeyouwouldn'tlikethisone.Confirmedsquid-hatershavetakenfourthsandfifthsonthisdish!(Theyoftendidn'tknowwhattheywereeating!)Thetasteofsquidisnotthere,andtherubberyconsistencyisgone.Infact,thesquid is turned intonothingmore thanahandyenvelope foravery tastymeatstuffing.1lb.fresh(frozen)squid

Clean the squid,pullingout theheadwith its tentaclesandtheinsides.Reservethetentacles.Alsopulloutthehard,clearbone-likespinethatextendsthelengthofthebody, inside. Wash the inside thoroughly under coldrunningwater.Chopthetentaclesfine,andsetaside.

½lb.groundporkPut the ground pork in a bowl, and add the choppedsquidtentacles.

6small(4large)driedmushrooms15driedlilyflowers(optional)Watertocover

Soakthemushroomsandlilyflowersinwarmwatertocoverforabout15or20minutes.Discardthemushroomstems,and thehardstem-endof the lily flowers.Drainwell,thenchopfineandaddtothepork.

¼cupbeanthreadWatertocover

Soak the bean thread about 10 or 15minutes inwarmwater to cover. Measure about ¼ cup of it after it issoaked,anddrainwell.Chopfine,andaddtothepork.

1clovegarlic2shallots(orwhitepartofgreenonion)¼tsp.salt1tbsp.fishsauce

¼tsp.blackpepperCrush the garlic and chop very fine; add to the pork.Slice the shallots in thin rounds and add to the pork,withthesalt,fishsauce,andblackpepper.Mixtogetherwell,kneadingwithhands.

CoarseneedleHeavythread

Stufftheporkmixtureintothesquid,packingeachsquidfirmly full. Sew the opening shutwith a coarse needleandheavythread.

Heavyskillet3tbsp.cookingoil

Heatthecookingoilintheskilletonmediumheat,thenaddthestuffedsquid.Sauteabout5minutesonmediumheat,turningoccasionally.Poke a fork into each squid so all thewater can comeout. Continue to cook, turning occasionally, another 7minutesonmediumheat.

TOSERVELettuceNuocMamSauce

Remove the thread and slice each squid in 14-inchrounds.Keepeachslicedsquidtogether,insquidshape,if desired. Serve hot on a bed of lettuce, with lettucepeepingupbetweeneachsquid.Accompanywithrice,aside dish ofNUOCMAMSAUCE (page 23), and soup ifdesired.

CHICKEN&DUCKCHICKEN IS ANOTHER VIETNAMESE MEAT FAVORITE.Chickens are small and thuscan be raised in a small area. They also produce eggs, andmake themselvesdoubly useful. Most of these recipes call for frying chicken, rather than forbakingorstewingchicken,evenwhenthechickenistobeboiledandthemeatremovedfromthebones.Stewingchickenoftengetsdriedoutbeforeitistender.

Duck, like chicken, is a universal favorite inVietnamaswell as inChina.Someoftherecipesincludedheremightwellbeusedwithwildducksbroughthomebyahunter.Therearealsosomerecipesforsoupsonpages37,38,and84.

BAKEDCHICKEN FourservingsThis is excellent for a quick and simple dinner. Fast, but tasty enough to putbefore themost demanding guest.And very good for the calorie counter, too.Trytakingitonapicnic.Justbesuretotakeplenty.3-lb.fryingchicken½cupsoysauce1tbsp.fishsauce1tsp.sugar2tbsp.cookingoil¼tsp.salt2garliccloves

Cut the chicken into serving pieces. Crush the garlic,andmixwithremainingingredientstomakeamarinade.Pouroverthechickenandletitstandatleast3hours,orovernight,intherefrigerator.

MediumroastingpanAluminumfoil

Line the roasting pan with aluminum foil. Place thechickenpiecesinthepan,andpourthemarinadesauceover.Bake,coveredwithaluminumfoil, in350Fovenforabout30minutes.Removethefoilfromthetopand

turn the chicken.Bake another 10minutes, uncovered.Thechickenshouldbeagoldenbrown.

TOSERVEServewith a side dish of themarinade sauce from theroasting pan. A green salad, NUOCMAM SAUCE (page23),andricemakeperfectaccompaniments.

STUFFEDCORNISHHEN SixservingsThisistruegourmetfood,butwon'tbewastedonordinarypeople.

6Cornishhens

Cleanthechickensthoroughly,washinsideandout,anddrywithpaper toweling.Reserve thegiblets foruse inthestuffing.

3shallots(orwhitepartofgreenonions)4clovesgarlic

Crushthegarlicandshallotstogether.1cupsoysauce1tbsp.sugar¼tsp.pepper3tbsp.cookingoil1tbsp.fishsauceBowllargeenoughtoholdallthechickens

Mix soy sauce, sugar, pepper, oil and fish sauce in alargebowl, thenmixin thecrushedgarlicandshallots.Dip each chicken into the mixture, coating eachthoroughly,thenputallthechickensinthebowlandletthemsoakforabout3hoursorlonger.Iftheweatherishot,putthemintherefrigerator.

2cupsrice2tbsp.butter1¾cupswater

CookPOTROASTEDRICE(page22).18-oz.canstrawmushrooms2greenonionsGibletsfrom6Cornishhens

Chop the green onions andmushrooms coarsely. Slicethe giblets very thin. If straw mushrooms are notavailable, fresh buttonmushroomsmay be substituted.Donotsubstitutecannedbuttonmushrooms.

2tbsp.cookingoil¼tsp.saltDashofblackpepperMedium-sizeskilletwithcover

Preheat the cooking oil in a medium-size skillet onmedium heat. Put in the chopped green onions andmushroomsandtheslicedgibletsandsauteonmediumheat, stirring, about 1 minute. Cover the skillet andsimmerfor8minutes.Removefromheat.MixthePot-RoastedRiceandthesauteedgibletmixturetogether, and stuff it into the marinated Cornish hens.Note:Stuff the hens tightly, but don't handle them toomuchbecausetheskinisnotverysturdy.Donottrytolaceorpin theopeningshut—just leave itopen,and ifsomeofthestuffingfallsoutdon'tworryaboutit.

LargebakingpanAluminumfoiltocover

Place the stuffed Cornish hens in the baking pan andpourtheremainingmarinadesauceoverthem.Coverthepanwith foil.Preheatoven to375F.Put in thepanofCornishhensandbakefor40minutes.

3tbsp.butterRemove the foil cover and baste the hens with butter.Continue baking, uncovered, at 375 F until goldenbrown(about15minutesmore).

TOSERVEServeonaplatter,onabedof lettuce leavesfor looks.Onehenisservedtoeachindividual,alongwithplentyofpapernapkinsandencouragementtousethefingers.Whenservingfromplatter toplate, try tokeep thehenin thesamepositionas itwasbaked in, so thestuffingwon't fall out. A vegetable salad makes the perfectaccompaniment.

STEAMEDGINGERCHICKEN FourservingsIf fresh ginger root is not available, use reconstituted whole dry ginger.However,itisworthtakingsomeextrabothertotrytofindfreshginger.2driedmushrooms(orseveralcannedstrawmushrooms)

Soakthedriedmushroomsinwarmwatertocoverabout15minutes.Drain, removethe toughstem,andslice inverythinstrips.Ifstrawmushroomsareused,slicethin.

"Large"meatfromhalfafryingchicken

Remove the "large" meat and skin from the bones ofhalf a frying chicken. Reserve the bones, with the"small"meat and the giblets for soup. Cut the "large"meatintothumb-sizeorsmallerpieces.

1shallot(orwhitepartofgreenonion)3thinslicesfreshgingerroot

1smalltomatoSlice theshallot into thinrounds.Cut the thinslicesofginger root into very fine strips. Slice the tomato(includingskin)intosmallfinger-sizesections.Combineall these ingredients, and the mushrooms, with thechicken.

Smalldeepheat-proofbowl(cereal-bowlsize)½tsp.sugar1¼tsp.fishsauceDashofblackpepper1/8tsp.salt1tsp.cookingoil

Place the chickenmixture in theheat-proof bowl.Addthe remaining seasonings and oil and mix thoroughlywiththehandsorwithaspoon.

Largeheavyskillet,withcoverWater

Pour about 1 inch of water into the skillet. Place thebowlofchickenmixtureinthecenterandputthecoveron theskillet.Thecovershouldbevented,or tilted,sosome of the steam can escape. Bring to a boil overmediumhighheatandsteamuntilwelldone (about30minutes).Checkoccasionally,andifthewatergetslowintheskillet,addmorehotwater.Ifyouhaveasteameritmaybeused,butthisisfasterandeasier.

TOSERVEServewithrice,soup,andsalad.

CHICKENANDBEANTHREAD FourservingsAquickmeal,simpleandtasty.22-oz.pkgs.bean

threadWarmwatertocover

Soakthebeanthreadinwarmwatertocoverforatleast10minutes.Drainandchop intomedium lengths (6 to10incheslong).

Halfafryingchicken1shallot(orwhitepartofgreenonion)

Cut the "large"meat from thebonesofhalf a chicken,and cut into thumb-size or smaller pieces. Careful ofyour thumbs! Reserve the bony sections with "small"meatandthegibletsforsoup.Slicetheshallotintothinroundsandaddtothechickenmeat.

Largeheavyskillet2tbsp.cookingoil

Heat the cooking oil in skillet, and saute the chickenabout3minutesonmediumheat,stirringoccasionally.

1tbsp.fishsauce1/8tsp.saltDashofblackpepper½cupwater

Add the seasonings andwater to the chicken, stirwellandturntheheattohigh.Bringtoaboilandcookfor2minutes. Reduce the heat to medium low and cook 1moreminute.Addthebeanthread,stirwelltomixandcookabout1minute.Removefromheat.

TOSERVEServewarm,withriceandasalad.Canbereheated,orfrozenforuselater.

CURRIEDCHICKEN FourservingsCURRY

SEASONING1heapingtbsp.currypowder1tsp.salt1tsp.redpaprikaDashofallspice½tsp.sugar1/8tsp.(scant)cayenne,dashofblackpepper1tsp.saffronpowder¼tsp.cinnamon(or21/8-inchpieceofstickcinnamon)

The plain curry powder only gives the nice smell andpart of the nice color—the other seasonings add thespecial flavor.This has amuch richer color and flavorthan is usually seen outside the Far East's traditionalcurry-eatingcountries.Thepaprikaandsaffronpowderadd a richness of color that is missing in commercialcurry powder. Unfortunately even commercial saffronpowder isusuallysooldas tohave lost thestrengthofitscolor.InVietnamsaffronroot isgroundfreshanditgivesawarmgoldenglowtothecurry.Freshcitronellaisanotherthingthathasnorealsubstitute.Itisavailableinsomecosmopolitanareas,andbyallmeanstrytofindit;butifyoucan't,makethecurryanyway.

2½-to3-lb.fryingchicken

Cut chicken into serving pieces about 3-or 4-inchsquaresorrectangles;itdoesn'tmatter.

2freshcitronellaroots(optional)

2garlicclovesSlicethecitronellainthinrounds,thenchopwell.Mashgarlic cloves and chop fine. Add citronella, garlic andcurry flavoring powder to chicken and mix well. Letstandabout30minutes.

Deeppotwithlid4tbsp.cookingoil3shallots

Heat theoil onmediumheat.Slice the shallots in thinrounds.Sautetheshallotsforafewsecondsthenaddthechickenmixture.Cookonmediumheat, stirring, about10minutes.

2cupscoolwater2tbsp.fishsauce

Rinseoutthecontainerinwhichyoumixedthechickenand seasonings and pour the rinse water into the potwith the chicken mixture. Add the fish sauce and stirwell.Increasetheheattohigh,bringtoboil,andletboilabout2or3minutes.Reducetheheattomedium.

1tbsp.cornstarchMixalittleofthewarmliquidwithcornstarchandblendwell. Then add to the chicken mixture, stir well, andcookanother5minutes.

½cupcoconutmilkIfcoconutmilkorfrozencoconutmilkisnotavailable,make some coconutmilk using the recipe on page 26.Addtothechickenmixture,stirwell,andcookanother5minutes.If thesauceisnotquitethickenough,addalittle more cornstarch, using the method describedabove. It should not be pasty, but should be a littlethickerthanwater.

TOSERVEServewithrice,noodles,hotrolls,orFrenchbread,andagreensaladifdesired.Foradditionalflavoring,haveasmallsidedishof lemonor lime juicemixedwithsalt.Thismixtureshouldbespreadlightlyoveryourpieceof

chicken.

FRIEDCHICKENCITRONELLA ThreeorfourservingsThisisauniquelysoutheastAsiandish,andifyoucan'tfindfreshcitronella(orpowderedlemongrass)thereisreallynosubstitute.½fryingchicken(about1lb.)withgiblets3small(2large)citronellaroots(or1tbsp.powderedlemongrass)2greenonions1tsp.saltDashofblackpepper

Cut thehalf-fryer inservingpieces.Slice thecitronellaandgreenonionsinthinrounds.Addtothechickenwiththe salt and pepper, mix to coat the chicken, and letstandabout20minutesormore.

Heavylargeskillet2tbsp.cookingoil1-inchpiecechilipepper

Heatthecookingoilintheskilletonmediumheat.Addthe seasonedchickenand saute, stirringoccasionally, aminute or so. Chop chili pepper fine and add, stirringwell.Sauteabout10minutesonmediumheat.

1tsp.sugarDashofblackpepper

Sprinkle the sugar and a littlemore black pepper overthechickenandstirwell.

2tbsp.choppedroasted

peanuts1tbsp.fishsauceTOSERVE

Besure tochop thepeanuts justbeforeusing, tobringout the flavor.Also be sure to use the "dust" from thechopping, since much of the good peanut flavor is inthat.Add,withthefishsauce,tothechicken.Stirwell,scraping the bottom of the skillet with a spatula ifnecessary. Don't let it burn. Continue to cook about 1moreminute,thenremovefromheat.

TOSERVEServehotorwarm,withriceorseasonednoodles.CanbeusedasamaindishwitharegularWesternmeal,andisgoodforpicnicsifservedstillslightlywarm.

TOMATO-FRIEDCHICKEN FourmediumservingsThis quick and simple dish is very good for a buffet dinner, and is easy tomultiply—servedwithagreensaladandwithPOT-ROASTEDRICE(page22).Thisisalabor-savingdeviceforthecookandasurewaytopleaseguestsorfamily.1½-lb.fryingchicken1shallot¼tsp.pepper1tsp.salt

Cut the fryingchicken intoservingpieces.At least1½hoursbeforeserving,slicetheshallotinthinroundsandmixwith thesaltandpepper.Add these to thechickenand mix thoroughly, so each piece of chicken isseasoned.Letthismixturestandatleastanhour,sotheseasoning can soak in. If the weather is very hot,refrigeratewhilesoaking,otherwiseroomtemperatureisfine.

3tbsp.cookingoilHeavyskilletwithlid

Heatthecookingoilinaheavyskillet,onmediumheat.

Put in the chicken, and fry on medium heat about 5minutes,turningpiecesofchickenonceortwice.Coverand cook on medium heat another 7 minutes. Turnpieces,coveragainandcookanothertwominutes.

2smallclovesgarlic

Crush the garlic cloves with the flat side of a heavyknife, or presswith a garlic press—just until the sidesarebrokencompletely.Add to the chicken, stir lightly,andallowtocookafewseconds.

2largetomatoes1shallot(orwhitepartofagreenonion)1tbsp.tomatosauce

Chop the tomatoes coarsely. Slice the shallot in thinrounds.Add tomato and shallot,with tomato sauce, tothe chicken. Stir gently, and turn the chicken piecesonce.Cover,continuetocookonmediumheatanother5minutes.Uncoverandturnchicken.

1tbsp.fishsauceDribblethefishsauceoverthechicken,stirgently,turnheat to low, and cook another minute or two. Keepwarmuntilreadytoserve.

TOSERVEServe hot with rice and salad—especially good withPOT-ROASTED RICE (page 22). This can be cooked inadvance and reheated to serve. It may be frozen, ifprepared in largequantities,and itmakes leftovers thattastelikeabanquet.

CHICKENANDMANYVEGETABLES About8servingsBe sure to get everything chopped and sliced before starting to cook.Thoughthismaylookcomplicated,itisactuallyeasytodo.Therecipemaybereduced

insize,ifdesired,butleftoversareeasytofreezeforuselater.8driedmushroomsWatertocover

Soak mushrooms about 15 minutes, or until tender.Removeanddiscard stems.Cut eachmushroom into3or4pieces.

15-oz.canbambooshoots

Discardtheliquidinthecan.Slicethebamboointothin(1/8 inch) pieces about 1 inchwide and 2 or 3 incheslong.Irregularpiecesarecustomary,insteadofsquaredones.

1Chineseyam(substitute:kohlrabi)(omitifnotavailable)

PeelandslicetheChineseyam(orkohlrabi)inverythinrounds.

1smallonion

Chopcoarsely.

1mediumcarrot

Scrapeandcutintoapproximately2-inchlengths.Thensliceeachpieceinto5or6thinlengthwiseslices.

½mediumfryingchicken

Washthehalfchickenandcutintosmallservingpieces.Usethegiblets,too,ifyoulikethem.

1cupcauliflower½cupChinesepeas(substitute:French-cutgreenbeans)

You can use either fresh or frozen vegetables. Cut thecauliflowerfloweretsintodoublethumb-sizepieces.

Largeskilletwithcover2cupswater

Place water in skillet, turn heat on high. Add thecauliflower and peas. When the water boils, removefrom heat and drain the vegetables in a colander orstrainer.Discardthewater.

3tbsp.cookingoilUsingthesameskillet,heatthecookingoilonhighheat.Putinthechickenandonionandsaute,stirring,onhighheatabout1minute.Addthechoppedmushrooms,andstirwell.Reduceheatto medium and continue to saute, stirring, about 2minutes.

1tsp.saltAdd the salt, stir, and cover. Cook on medium heatabout3minutes.Add the sliced bamboo shoots and Chinese yam, stir,andcover.Cookonmediumheatanother3minutesorso.Add the carrot, stir, and cover. Cook onmedium heatanother5minutes.Addtheblanchedcauliflowerandpeas.Stir.

¼cupwater2tbsp.fishsauceDashmonosodiumglutamate(asubstitutefor1tbsp.soakeddriedshrimp)

Mix thewater, fish sauce, andmonosodium glutamate(ordriedshrimp,ifyouprefer).Pourintotheskilletandstir well. Cook, uncovered, another 5 minutes on

mediumheat.TOSERVE

Servehotwithrice.Canbefrozen,orrefrigerated,andreheated.

GIBLETSANDVEGETABLES Fourservings1¼lb.cauliflowerDeeppot1qt.water¼tsp.salt

Cut the cauliflower flowerets in half. Try to maintainaboutthesamesizepieces.Bringthewaterandsalttoaboilinthedeeppot.Putinthecauliflowerandbringtoaboilagain.Boilfor3minutes,removefromtheheatanddrainwell.Thecauliflowershouldbealmostdrywhenusedintherecipe.

½lb.chickenheartsandgizzards2shallots(orwhitepartofgreenonions)

Cut the hearts in half, lengthwise. Score the gizzardslengthwise, making 4 or 5 cuts, then slice themcrosswiseinto1/8-inchpieces.Thishelpsthemtocookfaster and soakupmore juice, and itmakes thepieceslook more appealing. Slice the shallots in thin roundsandaddtothegiblets.

10driedmushrooms

Soakthedriedmushroomsinwarmwatertocoverabout10minutes.Drainwell.Cut off anddiscard the stems,andsliceeachofthemushroomsintofourstrips.

10mediumlargefreshmushrooms

Sliceeachofthefreshmushroomsintofourstrips,stemsandall.

2tbsp.cookingoilLargeheavyskilletwithlid/span

Heatthecookingoilintheskillet,onmediumheat.Putin the in the giblets and shallots, the freshmushroomsand the dried mushrooms. Stir well. Saute about 1minuteonmediumheat.

Dashofpepper½tsp.salt1tbsp.fishsauce

Addthepepper,salt,andfishsaucetothegibletmixtureandstirwell tomix.Cover lightly, lettingsomeairgetintothepan,andcontinuetocookonmediumhighheatuntildone,aboutanother5minutes.Stiroccasionally.

1heapingtsp.cornstarch

Addthepepper,salt,andfishsaucetothegibletmixtureandstirwell tomix.Cover lightly, lettingsomeairgetintothepan,andcontinuetocookonmediumhighheatuntildone,aboutanother5minutes.Stiroccasionally.Addthecauliflowertogibletsandmixwell.Coverandcontinue to cook on medium high heat another 2minutes.

2/3cupwaterMix the cornstarch in thewater so itwon't get lumpy.Add to themixture in the skillet and stir continuously,cooking another half a minute or so on medium highheat. The gravy will begin to thicken and gettranslucent. Remove from heat, and keep warm untilserved.NOTE:Thecauliflowerwillstillbechewyandslightly

crisp.Ifitiscookedtoolongitwillgettenderer,butwillbegintogiveoffthatunpleasant"cabbagey"smell.

TOSERVEServewithriceandsalad,asamaindishoroneoftwomaindishes.Shouldbeservedwarm.Itcanbereheated,anditcanbefrozenforfutureuse.

CHICKENSOUP-SALAD(PHOGA) AbouttenservingsThisisanotherversionofthefamouscombinationsoupandsaladthatissuchafavorite inVietnam.Youshouldplantoservethiswhenthere isa largegroup,becauseyouneedtomakesuchalargequantityofsoup.Ofcourse,thesoupmayberefrigerated,butitreallyisagoodexcuseforaparty.Itisfuntoleteveryonegetintotheact,too,ifitispossibletosetthesouppotsimmeringinaplacethatisconvenienttothetable.Variationsusingporkorbeefaredescribedonpages52and62.THECHICKENSOUP4-lb.stewingchicken10cupswaterBeefand/orporkbones(optional)½stickcinnamon10thinslicesfreshgingerroot(optional)2greenonionsExtralargesouppot

Cut thechicken inhalf andput intoabigpotwith thewater. If desired, add beef and/or pork soup bones forflavor.Crush thehalf stickof cinnamonanddrop it inthepot.Chopthegingerrootfineandadd.Cutthegreenonion in 3-inch lengths and put in the pot. Bring to aboil on high heat, then reduce the heat to medium ormedium low, just enough to keep the pot gently

simmering. Cook about 5 hours, uncovered, addingwater as necessary to keep the level the same. If youdon'taddmorewateritwillgraduallyboilawayandyouwon'thaveanysoup.

1fryingchicken1smallonion

Cut the frying chicken in half and drop into the souppot. Cut the onion in sixths and drop in. Continue tosimmer, uncovered, until the frying chicken is tender(about30minutes).Test the two fryingchickenhalvesbypokingwithachopstick(orafork,rememberingthata fork is much sharper). When tender, dip out of thesoup,cool,andremovethemeatfromthebones.Leaveall the other ingredients in the soup pot. Theymay beeatenlater,asleftovers.Setthechickenmeataside.Thesoupisnowreadyforeatingatanytime.

1tbsp.saltDashofmonosodiumglutamate

Addsaltandmonosodiumglutamatebeforeserving.1pkg.Chinesenoodles(lookfun:page17)

If fresh noodles are available, slice in ½ inch widestrips.Ifdriednoodlesareused,soakthedrynoodlesfor2 hours in warm water to cover. Then boil about 5minutes,oruntiltender.Besurethenoodlesarecookedbeforebeginningtoserve—justheatthemupalittleatservingtime.

SERVINGINSTRUCTIONSDeepsoupbowlsChopsticksSoupspoons

Be sure the noodles are cooked before beginning toserve—justheatthemupalittleatservingtime.Besure

all theslicingandpreparation isdone inadvance, thenaskpeople tocomeandbeservedbeforestarting todothefollowingcooking.Manypeopleliketopreparetheirown,oncetheyhavelearnedtheprocedure.

1lb.freshbeansprouts3qts.waterDeeppotLong-handledstrainer

Mix thebean sproutswith thealready-cookednoodles.Bring water to boil in the deep pot, then put about acupfulofthenoodleandbeansproutmixtureinalong-handledstraineranddipintotheboilingwaterforaboutaminute—justlongenoughtoblanchthebeansproutsandwarmthenoodles.Drainabitoverthepot,thenputinthebottomofanindividualsoupbowl.

3largeonions3largetomatoes

Cutthetomatoesinhalf,fromthestemenddown,thensliceacrossinverythinslices.Slicetheonionsthesameway.

DeepladlePutacoupleofslicesof tomatoandsomeonionin thedeep ladle. Immerse the ladle into the gently boilingsoup for ½ to 1 minute only, then pour into theindividualbowl.Putinplentyofsoup.

MeatfromtheboiledchickenpreparedearlierChineseparsleyLimeorlemonslicesFreshchilipepperFishsauce

Putplentyofchickenmeatontopofthesoup-salad,and

garnishwithChineseparsley.Servewithlargeslicesoflime or lemon, and small slices of fresh chili pepperaccording to individual taste. Also serve with a smallsidedishoffishsaucetobeusedtotasteif thesoupisnotsaltyenough.

MANY-COLOREDCHICKENFRIEDRICE SixservingsThiscolorfuldishmaybecookedasindicatedinthisrecipe,orwithindividualvariations as a leftover to clear out the refrigerator.Each family usually has aspecialfavoritegroupofthingstobeusedwithfriedrice.1mediumfryingchicken

Cutthefryingchickenintolargepieces,foreasyfrying.3shallots1tsp.salt1tsp.pepper

Chop the shallots very fine. Mix with the salt andpepper,andcoatthechickenpiecesthoroughlywiththemixture. Let the chicken stand about 30 minutes toseason.

Largeskilletwithcover3tbsp.cookingoil

Preheatthecookingoilonhighheat.Addtheseasonedchicken, reduce the heat to medium and cover. Cookabout10minutes,removecoverandturnchicken.Coverand continue cooking on medium heat another 15minutes, or until tender and slightly browned.Removechickenfromskillet,leavingwhateveroilthereisintheskillet.

½lb.boiledporkorham

SliceBOILEDPORK (page23)orboiledhamintopieces

about2 inches long,¼ inch thick,and½ inchwide. Ifcanned pressed ham is used, after slicing it put it in acolander and place it under hot running water for acouple of minutes. It will have a firmer texture, theslightly slick, canned feel will be gone, and it will bepinker.

1cupfrozenmixedvegetables3cupsboilingwater

Dropthemixedvegetables intoboilingwaterandcookabout5minutes.Drainwell.Orsubstituteacupofanyleftovervegetableor combinationofvegetables, ifyouprefer.

3cupscookedrice

See page 21 for cooking plain rice. Use cooked rice,either hot or cold.Leftover rice is very good—in fact,coldriceisbetterforthisrecipe.Putthecookedriceintheskilletinwhichthechickenwasfried,andsauteonmedium high heat about 5 minutes, stirring from thebottomwithaspatulaoccasionally.

1smallonion

Slicetheonion,andchopcoarsely.Makeaspaceinthecenter of the rice, drop in the onion and cook until itbegins toget limp(about1minute)beforestirring intotherice.Stirinthemixedvegetablesandhamandcookonemoreminute.

2freshtomatoes

Chop the tomatoes coarsely and stir into the mixture.Cookanotherminute.

Removefriedchickenmeatfromthebone,andshreditcoarsely.Addtothemixture,andstirwell.Cookanother2minutes.

3tbsp.water1tbsp.fishsauce

Mixthefishsaucewith thewater,sprinkle lightlyoverthe top of the rice and mix in well. Cook another 3minutes.

2tbsp.lard,butter,orcookingoil3clovesgarlic

This step is optional. Many Vietnamese people likemorefatintheirfriedrice,andlardisusuallythemostavailable. Butter is also well liked, but cooking oil isprobably better for you. The garlic is also optional.Makeaholeinthecenterofthericeinthepan.Putthefat (whichever kind you prefer) into the open space.Crushthegarlicclovesandputthemintothefat.Whenthe garlic aroma begins to rise, stir into the fried ricemixture and mix thoroughly. Cook another 3 or 4minutes.Removefromheat.

TOSERVENuocMamSauce

Serve hot, as a one-dish meal. May be accompaniedwith a soup and/or salad. Serve with side dishes ofNUOCMAMSAUCE(page23)forindividualuseaswanted.

CHICKENANDBAMBOOSTEW FourservingsInVietnam,freshbambooshootsareavailableduringmostoftheyear,andtheyareoftenusedinpreparingthisdish.Driedbambooshootsareusedduringtherainy season, but the dried bamboo is sun dried, for family use, and is notintended for storage beyond the three months or so of need. Dried bambooshootsavailableinChineseorotherorientalstoresinotherpartsoftheworldareusuallymachine-dried,andneedconsiderablymoresoakingandboiling.3to4oz.dried

bambooshoots(substitute:15-oz.canofcannedbambooshoots)3qts.water

Soakthebambooshootsovernight.Nextday,drainandrinsewell.

SouppotWater1tsp.bakingsoda

Putthesoakedbambooshootsinasouppotwithwatertocoverandaddthebakingsoda,whichhelpstomaketheshootstenderer.Bringtoaboil,andcookuncoveredovermediumheatabout1hour.Drain,andrinseunderrunning cool water, rubbing the shoots between thehandstocleanthoroughly.Drainwell.Cuteachstripinhalf across, then cut each half into about 3 lengthwisestrips.

2lbs.chickenbacksandwings1tsp.salt2tbsp.fishsauce2greenonionsWatertocover

Return the bamboo shoots to the soup pot. Put in thebonychickenpieces.Ofcourseawholechicken,cutup,oranyothercombinationofchickenpartsmaybeusedasdesired.Cutonionsinto2-inchlengths.Addwiththesalt, fish sauce, and water. Cook until everything istender(1or2hours).Thebambooshoots,whencooked,will have a slightly firm and chewy texture, similar tothatoffreshgreenonions.Theflavor,however,isnotatalllikegreenonions.

TOSERVERemovethechickenbones,andservehotwithriceandasalad.Thiscanbestoredintherefrigeratorseveraldays

andreheated.Alsocanbefrozenforlongerstorage.VARIATIONS

Iftimeispressing,thebamboomaybesoakedforonlythree hours before the cooking process is begun.However, after soaking, draining and washing underrunning cool water, the bamboo shoots should bebroughttoaboilinwatertocover.Assoonasthewaterboils,drainthebamboo.Repeat4or5times.Thenboilfor1hourbeforeaddingthechicken.Foradifferent (andgood) taste,usea15-ouncecanofbambooshoots,whichneedonlybewashed,sliced,andput in the soup pot with the bony chicken pieces andseasoningwithnopre-soaking.

SHREDDEDCHICKENRICE FourservingsThisisaverygoodone-dishmeal,withthericecookedinthesoupthatwasusedtoboilthechicken—aninterestingtechnique.2½-lb.fryingchicken

Washthechickenandcutinhalf.Deepbowl3shallots2clovesgarlic2tbsp.fishsauce¼tsp.pepper¼tsp.salt

Crushandchoptheshallotsandgarlicveryfine.Putinadeepbowl,withthefishsauce,pepperandsalt,andmixwell.Thenputthechickenhalvesinandcoatthemwell.Letthechickenmarinateinthissauceabout30minutesorlonger.

Heavydeeppot4tbsp.cookingoil

Preheat the cooking oil, then fry the soaked chickenhalvesonmediumheatabout5minutesoneachside.

1tsp.saffronpowder(orturmeric)

Usefreshsaffronpowderifavailable.Addandstirwell.Continuetofryforanotherminute.

4½cupswaterAddthewater, increase theheat tohighandbring toaboil. After the water begins to boil, lower the heat tomediumhighandletthechickencookfor15minutes.

3cupsrice

Addthewater, increase theheat tohighandbring toaboil. After the water begins to boil, lower the heat tomediumhigh and let the chicken cook for 15minutes.Take the chicken pieces out of the soup and let themcool.Removethemeatfromthebonesandshred.Washthericeanddrainit.Putitintothepotwiththechickensoup, and increase the heat to high. Cook, uncovered,untilthewaterisallabsorbed.Addtheshreddedchickenandstirwell.Reducetheheattolow,cover,andcontinuetocookfor20or30minutes,oruntilthericeistender.

TOSERVEServe with leaf lettuce, Chinese parsley, fresh mint,cucumber slices, and a sidedishofNUOCMAMSAUCE(page23).Canbereheatedinasteamer.

DUCKANDBAMBOOSTEW FourservingsThisisstillanothervariationoftheCHICKENANDBAMBOOSTEW,recipeonpage86.Substituteeitherthebonypiecesofduck,orawhole,cut-upduck.Thisisagoodwaytousetough,wildduck.

STEAMEDDUCK Sixservings

ThisisconsideredVIPfoodinVietnam.Itisfullofanumberofdeliciousthings,andhasaflavorquitedifferentfromthatof the traditionalWesternroastduck.Whenthehunterbringshomeaniceduck,trythisforachange.Youmayendupbuyingducktokeepupwiththedemand!Thefatandjuicerunsoutoftheduckinthesteam,andthefatjustseemstodisappearfromthemeat.20driedlilyflowers(optional)10driedmushrooms2tbsp.driedtreefungus(optional)

Soak the lily flowers, mushrooms, and tree fungus inwarm water to cover about 20 minutes. Remove anddiscardthehardstemendofthelilyflowersandtieeachoneinaknottomakeitslightlymorecrunchy.Removeand discard the mushroom stems and slice eachmushroominto3or4piecesormore,iflarge.Removethe black specks from the tree fungus, where it grewontothetree.Drainwell.

1½lb.duck(partofaduck)Heat-proofbowl

Cut theduckmeat from thebones, leavingonmostofthefat.Slicethegibletsinthinpieces.Puttheduckandgiblets into the bowl and add the mushrooms, treefungus,andlilyflowers.

4or5thinslicesoffreshgingerroot4shallots(substitute:2wholegreenonions)

Chopthegingerfine.bothtotheduck.Slicetheshallotsinthinrounds.Add

1tbsp.ricewineChinesericewinemaybeusedorawhitewinesuchassauterne,butdonotuseJapanesesakebecauseitisnot

strong enough.One tsp. of good brandy, or very goodrum,maybesubstituted.Addtotheduck.

3tbsp.fishsauce30wholeblanchedalmonds¼tsp.salt

Add the fish sauce, almonds and salt. Mix everythingtogether well, using the hands if necessary to get theduckwellcoatedwithalltheseasonings.

Steamer(page10)Placethebowlinthetoppartofthesteamer,withcoldwater in thebottomsection.Cover.Bring toaboilandsteamonhighormediumhighheatfor30minutes.Asasubstitute for the steamer, use a large skillet or pan, asmall rack of any sort that will keep the bowl off thebottom,andatopthatwillcovertightly.

TOSERVEServe hot, with rice, soup, and salad. This is realgourmetfare,andshouldhavetheplaceofhonorinanymeal.Canbereheatedinthesteamer.Canbefrozen,butshouldbedefrostedbeforereheatinginthesteamer.

BARBECUEDSAFFRONDUCK 4smallservingsTheleavesusedtowrapthepiecesofduckareanimportantpartofthisrecipe—they tend tokeep thefat fromtheduckoutof thefire,andwhenfatdoesdripinto thefire,making it flareup, the leavesprotect theduckfromburning.Theleavesgetprettyseared,buttheduckhuddlesinsidecookinginawonderfulway.Lemonleavesarebyfarthebest,becausetheygivesomeoftheirlemonflavorto the barbecue. But any thick, non-poisonous leaf will do the trick. Just bepositive it is not poisonous, and that when burned it will not give off anunpleasanttaste.Anycitrusfruitleaf,guavaleaf,bananaleaf—infact,anyleafofatreewithediblefruitwillbegood.InVietnam,thelemontreethornisusedas a toothpick to hold the leaf in place, having the added advantage of beinggreen and less flammable than a toothpick. See the end of the recipe forinstructions forbarbecuingwithoutany leavesatall. Ifwildduck isused,andtheduckseemstobetough,justsliceitinveryfine,thinstrips.

1½lb.duck(partofaduck)

Removethemeatfromthebones,usingasharpknifeorcleaver. Includesomeof thefat,butusepredominantlyleanmeatforthisdish.Cutintomediumsmall, thumb-sizedpieces.Savethebones,bonypieces,andrestofthefatforsoup;recipesonpages29-39.

2greenonions3slicesfreshgingerroot2clovesgarlic1tsp.saffronDashofblackpepper1tbsp.soysauce1tbsp.fishsauce1tsp.sugar1tbsp.cookingoil

Choptheonions,freshgingerroot,andgarlicveryfine.Add to the duck, in a bowl. Citronella or lemon grassmaybesubstitutedforginger,ifyouhaveit.Addalltheseasonings to theduck,andmix togetherwellwith thehands.Letitstandandmarinate20minutesormore.Iftheweatheristoohot,storeintherefrigerator.

LargelemonleavesWrapeachpiecewithalemonleaforifverythinstripsofduckareused,bunchseveraltogether.Foldthetipofthe leaf over themeat, then the stem end, leaving thesides open. If the leaf won't stay folded, break thecentral stem by folding firmly. Keep together with atoothpick or other less flammable pick. Try theVietnamesemethodofusing lemon thorns, ifyouhavethetimetocutthemoffthetree.

Foldingsandwichgrillorotherbarbecueequipment

BarbecuegrillPlace thewrapped duck in a foldingwire sandwich orhotdog cooker, and place over hot coals. Barbecue,turning occasionally, until done (about 15 minutes).When the fat drips out, the firewill flame up, but theleaveswillprotecttheduck.

TOSERVEServehot,withrice.Eachpersonunwrapshisownduckandputsitontopofhisrice.Putaplateorbowlinthecenter of the table for the leaves—don't keep track ofindividualappetites!

VARIATIONIfnon-poisonousleavesarenotavailable,orthegroupistoo hungry to wait until a test is made, regular longskewers may be used. Put the pieces of duck, folded,packed close together on the skewer. Broil over lowcoals,turningfrequently.Watchcarefully,andifthefireflames up from dripping fat, or for any other reason,don'tlettheduckburn.

TURNIP-PATCHDUCK FourservingsThisdishrathereffectivelydisguisesthestrongflavorofturnipsandthestrongflavorofduck,makingapleasantsurprisefortheduck-hunterorthehousewifewithleftoverduck.lb.ofduck(partofaduck)

Cut the duck meat off the bones and slice thinly,includingsomefatwiththelean.Usethegiblets,ifyouhave them, sliced thin. The pieces of duck should beabout¼inchthickorless,and1inchwideandperhaps2incheslong:irregularpiecesaretobeexpected.

Largeskilletwithcover2tbsp.cookingoil

Heatthecookingoilintheskilletonhighheat,andthen

saute theduck,stirringconstantly, forabout3minutes.Removefromskilletandsetaside.

2medium-sizeturnips(about1to1¼lb.)

Paretheturnipsandcutoffrootandstemends.Cutintolargefinger-sizechunks,about2or3incheslong.

2tbsp.cookingoilUsing the same skillet as for the duck, heat the oil onhighheatandsautetheturnips,stirringfrequently,about5minutes.

1clovegarlic

Crush the garlic, chop fine, and add to the turnip. Stirwell. After a few seconds, when the garlic begins tomake itspresenceknown,put in the sauteedduck.Stirwell.

1tbsp.fishsauce1tsp.salt1cupwater

Addthefishsauce,saltandwaterandstirwell.Bringtoa boil on high heat, cover, and reduce the heat tomedium low. Simmer about 1 hour, or until duck andturnipsaretender.

TOSERVEServe hot, with rice, soup, and salad. Garnish withChineseparsley,ifavailable.

BARBECUEDWHOLEDUCK FourservingsThisduckhasawonderfulflavor,andisoneofthesimplestofmealstoprepare.It needs one hour marinating and two hours cooking time, but need not bewatched,exceptforthelast30minutes.Thisisidealfortheoutdoorrotisserie,because it needs the charcoal flavor. The lime or lemon leaves and citronellaleavesgiveitaspecialflavor,too;butthesubstitutionofcelerytopsandparsley

willnotmakeittastebad!Itwillhaveadifferentflavor,butanexcellentone.4-lb.duck(wildtenderone,orLongIsland)

Iftheduckisfrozen,thawitbeforebeginninganything.Wash thoroughly inside and out, and pat dry. Removethegiblets,andreserveforanotherrecipeorforsoup.

2tbsp.cinnamon2tbsp.salt1tbsp.sugar¼tsp.blackpepper

Mix the cinnamon, salt, sugar, and pepper, and divideintothreeequalparts.Useone-thirdoftheseasoningtorub the inside of the bird thoroughly, massaging it inwell,andusethesecondthirdtorubintothebird'sskin.Letthebirdsoakuptheseasoningforanhourorso.Theremainingthirdisusedlater.

CharcoalbrazierElectricrotisserie

Startacharcoalfire,andletthecoalsgetfairlyhot.LimeorlemonleavesCitronellaleaves(substitute:celerytopsandparsley)

Stufftheducklooselywiththeleaves.Don'tchopthemup—use whole leaves. Sew or skewer the bird tightlyclosed. Put it on the rotisserie skewer and place overcoals.Start therotisseriegoing,andbroilovermediumhotcharcoal1½hours.

1/3cupwaterBastingbrush

Addwater totheremainingthirdof theseasoningmix.Baste the duckwith this sauce about every 5minutes,cookingforanother30minutes.

Remove the rotisserie skewerwith the duck, and let itcool enough tobehandled.Openup theduck, removeand discard leaves. Chop the duck into small bite-sizepieceswithacleaverorcarve it into largeserving-sizepieces,ifdesired.

TOSERVEServewithsoup,salad,andriceasamaindish.Ifthefatand skin is not popular, save it and make duck andbamboostew,orsauteit.

SALADSFRESHLEAFLETTUCE,freshmint leaves,Chineseparsley,andfreshchivesmakean excellent accompaniment for any Vietnamese meal. Note, too, the severalrecipesforSOUP-SALADSonpages52,62,and84.

PICKLEDBEANSPROUTS FourservingsThis isverygood for lunchonahotday.ServewithcoldBOILEDPORK (page23),NUOCMAMSAUCE(page23),andrice;orwithPORKSTEW(page40).1lb.freshbeansprouts1mediumcarrot1greenonion1bambooshoot(canned)

Wash the bean sprouts and drain thoroughly. Canned bean sprouts won't do.Shred the carrot. Add to bean sprouts, in large bowl. Cut the green onion,includingthetop,into2-inchlengths.Thensliceintolengthwisestrips.Slicethebambooshootvery thin,about1/16 inch, thencut intosmallstrips.Besure touseaChinesebambooshoot.Ifdesired,asmallcanofpreslicedbambooshootcanbesubstituted,butitshouldbewelldrainedandrinsedwithcoldwater.

1tbsp.rocksaltWater

Regular saltmaybeused.Mix all ingredients together, including the salt, andpourinwatertocover.Letthemixturestandatroomtemperatureatleastthreehours,butpreferablyallday.Thiswillkeepabouttwodaysintherefrigerator.

PICKLEDBEANSPROUTSWITHBOILEDPORK FourservingsMediumpotwithcover

1lb.porklegorbellyColdwatertocover

Pork may be lean or fat, depending on personalpreference. Since the pickled bean sprouts are slightlysour, some people likemore fat in the pork. Place theporkinthepot,andpourincoldwatertocover.Bringtoaboil, then lowerheatandcover thepot.Let themeatsimmeruntildone(about20minutes).Totest,pushtheendofachopstickintothemeat.Ifitgoesineasily,themeatisdone.Remember,aforkismuchsharperthanachopstick,soafork-test fordoneness isquitedifferent.Do not overcook themeat; it should bewell done butfirm. Ifyoudiscover it is still toopinkor tough insidewhenyoubegintosliceit,justputitbackinthepotandboil somemore.Remove the pork to a plate or platterand let cool to room temperature. When thoroughlycool, cut across the grain into thin (1/16-inch) slices.Thencuttheslicesintopiecesabouttwoinchessquare.

TOSERVE1lb.pickledbeansprouts

Drainthepickledbeansprouts(page92)andpileinthecenter of a large plate ormedium-size platter.Arrangethecoldslicedporkartisticallyaroundtheedgessothatitwillbeeasytoserve.

NuocMamSaucePlaceNuocMam Sauce (page 23) in small bowlwithservingspoon.Agravybowlandgravyladleworksverywellforthis.Placehotriceinanotherbowlwithservingspoonorwoodenpaddle.

EATINGINSTRUCTIONSIndividualplacesetting:1tinysaucedish1ricebowlChopsticks

Serve rice in individual rice bowls, and a spoonful ofNuoc Mam Sauce in individual sauce dishes. Eachpersontakesachopstickfulofpickledbeansproutsandplaces iton topofhis rice.Thenhe takesonepieceofcoldslicedpork,dips it into thesauce,places iton topofthepickledbeansprouts,andeatswithrice.

CUCUMBERSALADThoughthisiscalledcucumbersalad,therearemanyothergoodiesinitaswell.Itisdeliciousasaone-dishmealonahotday,ormaybeservedasasaladwithdinner.Goodforpicnics,adieter'sdelight,thecompleteall-purposefood.2largecucumbers1tsp.saltWatertocover

Slice the cucumbers paper thin (use the wide slicingsectiononyourgrater, if ithasone;oruseavegetableparer).Soakthethinslicesinsaltedwatertocoverabout30minutesormore.Drainthroughapieceofnylonnetandtwisttosqueezewateroutthoroughly.

½lb.boiledshrimp(page24)

Cool the shrimp thoroughly. Slice in halves or thirdslengthwise.

½lb.boiledpork(page23)

Slice pork in thin (¼-inch) pieces, about finger-size orslightlysmaller.Coolthoroughly.

1or2tbsp.NuocMamSauce(page23)

Mixcucumber,shrimpandporktogether.Addlessthan1tablespoonNuocMamSauceandtaste—everytasteisdifferent.Addmore,asyoulike.

3or4tbsp.sesameseed

Roastthesesameseedslightlyinasmallcoveredpanontop of the stove, shaking to keep from burning. Thencrush slightly to bring out the flavor.Add to the saladjustbeforeservingandmixinwell.

About20mintleaves

Chop the mint leaves coarsely and add to the salad.Serve in small bowls, as a main dish for luncheon orotherlightmeal;orassaladwithadinner.

TOSERVEServe in small bowls, as a main dish for luncheon orotherlightmeal;orassaladwithadinner.

GREENVEGETABLESALADAny green vegetable, in season,may be served alone or in combination withothers. Servewith a side dish ofNUOCMAM SAUCE (page 23) for seasoning.EspeciallygoodwithmostVietnamesedishes is a combinationof leaf lettuce,chives, Chinese parsley, fresh mint, and cucumber. Cabbage leaves are alsogood.Letpersonalpreferencebeyourguide.

GREENPAPAYASALAD FourservingsThisisincludedforthebenefitofthoseluckypeoplewhoareabletogetgreenpapaya.Avariationusingturnips(alsodelicious)isincludedfortheothers.2cups(packed)greenpapaya

(The number of papayas usedwill vary, depending onthesize.)Usepapayasthatarestillveryhardandbrightgreen.Peelthepapayas,andshredinlongslendershredson a grater. Use just the green meat—stop when theseeds in the center appear. Put into a serving bowl orplatter.

½lb.boiledfreshpork(page23)1/3lb.boiled

shrimp(page24)

Slicetheboiledfreshporkinthin(1/8inch)slices,about½ inchwide and 1 inch long. If the shrimp are small,slice in half lengthwise. If large, slice in thirdslengthwise.Put pork and shrimpon topof thepapaya,arrangednicely.

3tbsp.freshmintleavesNuocMamSauce

Chop the mint leaves coarsely and sprinkle over thesalad.Pourover2or 3 tablespoonsof theNUOCMAMSAUCE (page 23), to taste. When ready to serve, mixtogether.

TOSERVEServeasalightluncheon,withteaandperhapssoup,orserveasasaladaccompanimenttoalargedinner.

TURNIPSALAD FourservingsThisisavariationofthegreenpapayasalad,butisdeliciousinitsownright.Besuretouseyoungandcrispwhiteturnips.2cups(packed)shreddedwhiteturnips

Thenumberofturnipsusedwillvary,dependingonthesize. Wash the turnips thoroughly, then scrape off theskin.Shred,onagrater, in long thin shreds.Put intoaservingbowloronaplatter.

½lb.boiledpork1/3lb.boiledshrimp(page24)

CuttheBOILEDFRESHPORK,preferablyfreshham,(page23)inthin(1/8-inch)slicesabout½inchwideand1inchlong.Iftheshrimparesmall,sliceinhalflengthwise.If

theyarelarge(don'tusetheextremelylargeones),sliceinthirdslengthwise.Puttheporkandshrimpontopoftheshreddedturnip,arrangednicely.

3tbsp.freshmintleavesNuocMamSauce

Chopthemintleavescoarselyandsprinkleoverthetopofthesalad.Pourover2or3tablespoonsofNUOCMAMSAUCE (page 23), to taste. When ready to serve, mixtogether.

TOSERVEServeasalightluncheon,withteaandperhapssoup;orserveasasaladaccompanimenttoalargedinner.

CHICKENSURPRISESALADThis chicken salad is certain to surprise—and to please. It is very good forpicnics, for light summermeals, fora saladaccompaniment toa soupor stew,andisadieter'sdelight.½boiledfryingchicken1smallheadcabbage

ChilltheBOILEDCHICKEN(page24)andshredit.Shredthe cabbage or slice very finewith a sharp knife.Mixthechickenandcabbagetogetherlightly.

About20freshmintleaves3or4stemsChineseparsley(optional)

ChopthemintleavesandtheChineseparsleycoarsely.Mixlightlywiththechickenandcabbage.

NuocMamSaucetotaste

AddNUOCMAM SAUCE (page 23) to taste—start with

aboutatablespoonful.TOSERVE

Serve alone with tea, or with rice, or as a saladaccompaniment to amain dish or a stew. It should becool,butnotnecessarilychilled.

PORKRINDSALAD FourservingsAninexpensive,anddiet-conscious,saladthatisquickandeasytomakeandisverytasty.Thebutcherwillprobablybehappytogiveyousomeporkskintotrythiswith.1cupporkrind(freshporkskin)Watertocover

Boilporkrindinwatertocoverabout20minutes.Rinseincoldwatertocoolanddrainwell.Removeexcessfatfromtheskin,andsliceintothinsliversaboutthesamesizeasbeansprouts.

1lb.freshbeansproutsHotwatertocover

Washandcleanbeansprouts,thensoakabout5minutesinhotwatertocover.Drainwell.

2starfruit(starappleorcarambole)SUBSTITUTE:1smallcucumber1tbsp.limejuiceWatertocover

Peel star fruit, and slice into thin slivers, same size asbeansproutsandporkrind.Drainwell.Ifstarfruitisnotavailable,cucumbersoakedinlime-flavoredwatermaybe substituted. Peel the cucumber and slice into thinsliversthesamesizeasthebeansprouts.Thensoakthesliversinthelimejuiceandwatertocoverforabout10minutes and drain well. This gives the slightly acid

flavorcharacteristicofstarfruit.¼cupmintleaves¼cupChineseparsley(ifavailable)

Chop mint and Chinese parsley leaves coarsely.Reserve.

2tbsp.sesameseeds

Roast the sesame seeds and crush slightly in amortar.Reserve.

2tbsp.NuocMamSauce(ortotaste)

Combine the pork rind, bean sprouts, star fruit (orcucumber),mint,andChineseparsley.TosswithNUOCMAMSAUCE(page23)untilwellmixed.Keepcooluntilserved.

TOSERVETosssaladwithcrushedsesameseedjustbeforeserving.Iftheseedsgetsoggy,thenicesmellandgoodflavoraredissipated. Serve as a light salad meal, or as a saladcourseforalargermeal.

SALAD"SANDWICH" FourservingsThisparticular itemofVietnamese food isoneof themostversatile. It isverygoodservedashorsd'oeuvres, inasmallbite-sizebundle. Itmakeswonderfulpicnicfare,witheachpersonmakinghisown"sandwiches."Anditalsoisgoodfor a completemeal, especially servedwith soup.Sinceall the ingredients areservedcold,itmaybepreparedwellinadvanceofservingtime.½lb.udonnoodles2qts.water

Bring thewater to a boil and put in the noodles. Boilabout5minutes,thendrainandrinseundercoolrunningwater. (Thenoodleswillbe sticky, andwillhave tobepulled apart in lumpy buncheswhen served.) Put on a

bedoflettuceleavestoserve.1½lbs.boiledshrimp(page24)1lb.boiledpork(page23)

Cook shrimp and pork according to Basic Recipes. Ittakesabout30minutesforthepork,only3or4minutesfor the shrimp. Slice the shrimp in 2 or 3 lengthwisepieces,dependingonhowlargetheshrimpare.Slicethepork in small pieces, about¼ inch thick and 2 inchessquare, or smaller. Arrange the sliced pork around theedgesofaservingplateorplatter,withtheslicedshrimpinthemiddle.

4lb.leaflettuceChineseparsleyChivesFreshmintleaves

Wash and drain all the vegetables. Serve on a largeplatterorbowl,eachinaseparatepile;oronindividualplatesorbowls.

NuocLeoSauceBesuretohaveenoughNUOCLEOSAUCE (page23)sothat each person can have about half a cupful of it, inindividualbowls.

TOSERVEEachindividualcanmakehisown"sandwich"bytakinga leaf of lettuce and putting on a little of each of theingredientsshownaboveexceptthesauce,wrappingthelettuce leaf more or less firmly around them, anddippingup someNuocLeoSaucewithone endof thebundle.Ifitfallsapartintothesauce,justfishitoutwithyourchopsticksorafork.

HORSD'OEUVREGreenoniontopsBoilingwater

Cut the tops from a bunch of green onions. Wilt theonion tops quickly by dipping into boiling water justenough tomake them limp. If the topsare fairlywide,cuttheminhalflengthwisebeforewiltingthem.Makesmall"sandwiches"byspreadingasmallamountof thenoodlesona lettuceleaf, thenputtinginasmallamountofeachoftheotheringredients.Foldovereachendofthelettuceleaf,thenrollupfirmly(butbegentleso the leafwon'tdis-integrate).Tie eachbundlewith awiltedgreenoniontop.ServewithNuocLeoSauce.

DESSERTSVIETNAMESESWEETSAREQUITEDIFFERENT fromthoseoutside theorient.Sweetsare served with tea whenever a guest comes to visit, but are not necessarilyconsideredapartofameal.Freshfruit,inseason,isabasicpartofVietnameseeating.And there aremany fresh fruits, someofwhich, unfortunately, are notavailableoutsidethetropics.

PRINCESSCAKE Twelveservings(orsix?)Thisrecipewasreconstructedfromachildhoodmemoryofacakebakedbymymother. It had been long forgotten, but suddenly one day came to mind andthrougha fewexperiments thePrincessCakeofmychildhoodhascome tobewritten in English. These actually are either very small cakes or very largecookies. There is nothing really like them except that small cupcakes or petitfoursresembletheminsize.Thecompletedcakelookslikeasmallcrown,withthe inside layer peeking through the outside portion. The inside is much likeshortbread; the outside is more like a crisp, rather hard cookie. The outsidedoughmaybeleftplain,ormaybecoloredanycolordesired.INSIDEDOUGH1cupflour8tbsp.vegetableshortening

Sift the flour.Melt the shortening (theVietnamese uselard;unsaltedbuttermaybesubstituted).Mixshorteningand flour together thoroughly, until crumbly, beforeaddingsugar,inordertokeptthisdoughcrumbly.

½cupsugar2or3dropsofbananaextract

Knead the sugar and banana extract into the mixture,mixinguntilitwillbarelyholdtogether.Ifitwon'tholdtogether,addalittlemoreshortening.

Divide the dough into 12 equal portions, and roll eachportionbetweenthehandsintoasmoothball.

OUTSIDEDOUGH1cupflour½cupsugar3tbsp.shortening

Sifttheflour.Mixinthesugar.Melttheshortening,andmix into the flour and sugar. In this case the sugar ismixedwiththeflourtomakethisdoughfirmerthantheinnerdough,above.

1tsp.bananaextract½tsp.green(orother)foodcolor4tbsp.water

Mix the banana extract and the food coloringwith thewater,thenaddgraduallytotheflourmixture,kneadingwith hands and folding until thoroughly mixed. Rollbetween the hands to make a rope about a foot long,then fold the rope and roll again. Repeat this severaltimes.Dividetheoutsidedoughinto12equalportionsandrolleach portion into a smooth ball. Then pat out betweenthe hands, shaping with the fingers, to make a circlelargeenoughtoenvelopaballoftheinsidedough.Wrapeach ball of "inside dough" in a circle of "outsidedough,"pullingtheedgestogetherandpattingsmoothlysothatitbecomesasmooth,coloredball.

2sheetsofpaperCookiesheet

Typingpaper,orothersimilarpaper,shouldbeused.Donotusewaxedpaper.(Cakesofthissortaretraditionallycookedandservedonwhitepaper.)Cutthepaperinto3-inchsquares,andplaceaballofdoughinthecenterofeach square, placing about 2 inches apart on a cookiesheet.With a sharp knife,make a cut across the top of each

ball,cuttingabout¼of thewaythroughtheball.Thenmaketwocuts,muchshallower,oneachsideofthedeepcut.Thetopoftheballshouldlookasifitismarkedinsixpie-wedgepieces.Ifthecutsaretoodeepthecakeswillfallapartwhilecooking;iftooshallow,the"crown"won't open up enough. If the shallower cuts aremadeacrossthefirstdeepcut,theshapewillbedistorted.

1tbsp.sesameseedSprinklesesameseedsoverthetopofeachcake.

TOSERVEPreheat oven to 350 F. Bake cakes about 25 minutes.Thetopswillgraduallyspreadopen,andthetipswillbeslightly brown. Serve warm or when cooled, likecookies.Verygoodwithtea.

COCONUTANDSESAMEFILLINGThiswonderfuldessertfillingisafavoriteintheorient,andamongthefortunatepeopleoutsidetheorientthathavehadanopportunitytotasteit.Itisnotdifficulttomake,andwillgenerouslyrepayalleffort.Useinthenexttworecipes.3tbsp.sesameseedHeavyskilletwithcover

Toast the sesame seed in a heavy skillet on top of thestove, shakingandstirringoften tokeep fromburning.Usemediumheat.Itwilltake3to5minutes,dependingonvariousfactors.Removefromskillettostoproasting.The seeds have amuch nicer flavor when toasted—infact,theyarealmostflavorlessunlesstheyaretoasted.

1freshcoconut(substitute:1½cupssweetenedbakerscoconut)

Removethemeatfromafreshcoconut.Seepage14foreasyinstructions.Grateitcoarselyandtoastinthesameheavyskillet,stirringconstantly,onmediumheat,about1minute.

1cupsugar1tbsp.water

Add sugar and water and continue to stir on mediumheatabout3minutes.Note:Ifsweetenedbakingcoconutisused,reducethesugarto½cup.Addthesesameseedsandcontinuetostirovermediumheatanother2minutes.Thesugarwillmelt,coatingthecoconutandsesameseeds.Remove from skillet to a bowl, and use as directed inrecipesonpages99-100—orfindyourownusesfor it.Refrigerate, if it is not all used immediately. Thiswillkeep in the refrigerator a month or so, or it can befrozen.

SOFTCAKEWITHCOCONUT-SESAMEFLAVORINGThisVietnamesecakehasmanyversions.Itisverysoft,almostlikedough,butverytender.Easytoeat,withagentleflavor,itisanidealendforaheavydinner.Itisalsogoodservedintheafternoonwithtea.1½cupsglutinousricepowderorflour1½cupswater(ormilk,ifdesired)

Mixthericeflourandwaterormilktogetherthoroughlywithaspoon.Ifyouuseastainlesssteelbowl,thedoughwon'tsticktothesidessomuch.Thiswillmakeastickydough.

Teaclothorotherclose-wovencloth

Dampenthecloth,placethelumpofdoughinthecenterandwrapwell.Theshapedoesn'tmatteratthisstage.

Steamer(seepage10)

Puthotwaterinthebottomsectionofthesteamer.Placethewrappeddoughinthetopsection,putthetopsection

inplaceandcover.Steamoverhighheat30minutes.Besurenottorunoutofwaterinthebottomofthesteamer.Remove the dough from the top of the steamer (becarefulnottogetasteamburn),unwrapit,usingtongsorglovesifnecessary.Putthesteameddoughbackintothestainlesssteelbowl.

1cupsugar½cupwaterDeeppot

Put the water and sugar in the deep pot and stir well.Bring to a boil, on high heat, and boil about 2 or 3minutesoruntilitmakesalightsugarsyrup.

½cupcandiedfruit(preferablysquash,page103)

Break the candied fruit into small pieces, aboutthumbnailsizeorsmaller.Stirintothesugarsyrup.Pourthesugarsyrupandthefruitintothebowlwiththedough,addinggraduallyandstirringintothedough.

¼cupcoconut-sesameseedfilling

Stir in the COCONUT-SESAME FILLING (page 98). Thedoughwillbequitesticky.

10-inchcakepanAbout¼cuppotatoflour

Sprinklethepotatoflourgenerouslyoverthebottomofthe cake pan. Put the cake mixture into the pan, andbegin topat itoutflat.Sprinklemorepotatoflouroverthe top of the cake and continue to pat gently and rubtheflourintothesurfaceofthecake.Itshouldfinallybesmoothontopandfillthecakepan.Letthecakecoolwell.Whenitiscold,cutintosquares,fingers, or whatever shape your whim dictates. It willstill be somewhat sticky and dough-like in texture butverytender.

PotatoflourSprinklepotatoflourgenerouslyinanotherpan.Rollthecutpiecesinpotatoflour,coatingwellsothecakewillnotbestickytohandle.Thepotatoflouriseasytodigestraw,unlikeotherflours,andwillnotgetsticky.

TOSERVEServecold,withtea.

FRIEDSWEETBALLSTHEDOUGH¾cupwater¼cupsugar

Mixwaterandsugar,bringtoaboil,stirringonlyuntilsugarisdissolved.Removefromheatandletcool.

10oz.(1½cups)glutinousriceflour

Mixthesugarsyrupwiththeflour,stirandmixwell.Itwillbeabouttheconsistencyofpiedough.

STUFFINGCookingoilCoconut-SesameFilling

Puta small amountof cookingoilon thepalmsof thehands,andtakeoutapieceofthedoughlargeenoughtoform a ball about 1 inch in diameter. Roll the doughbetweenthehandsuntilaballisformed.Thenflattenitcarefully with the fingers and palms, making a circleabout 3 inches across. Put a teaspoonful of COCONUT-SEASAMEFILLING (page 98) in the center, and fold theedges up, pinching together closely. Carefully rollbetweenthepalmsagain,makingafilledball.Besuretoget all the openings closed—otherwise the ball mightexplodewhenit is fried.Thinplaces in thedoughmayalsocausesmallexplosions.Standbackwhenfrying!

Deepfat(3inches)Droptheballsintohotdeepfatabout3atatimeandfry

untilgoldenbrown.Drainonpapertowels.If toomany balls are fried at the same time, theywillstick to each other. If too much sugar is used in thedough,itwillburneasily.Iftheballsareputinwhenthefatisnothotenough,theywillsticktothebottomofthepan.

TOSERVELikedoughnuts,thesearebestservedhot.Warnpeoplenot to burn tongues on the hot filling! But, also likedoughnuts,theyaretastywhentheyarecold.

BANANACAKE2lb.bananas(veryripe)

Peel bananas and smash them with flat side of heavyknife.Putintomixingbowl.

½cupheavycream1cupmilk1cupflour(sifted)½cupsugarPinchofsalt

Add cream,milk, flour, sugar, and salt to bananas andmixthoroughly.Ifavailable,substituteonecupcoconutmilkfortheheavycreamandmilk.Coconutmilkgivesa better texture and flavor, and more moisture thanregular cows' milk. (See pages 15 and 26, "coconutmilk.")

9-inchcakepanCookingoil1tbsp.flour

Oilthecakepan,thenputinflour.Shakeflouraroundtocoatsidesandbottomofpan,thenpouroutexcessflour.Pourbananamixture intopan, andbake at 350Funtilgoldenbrownontop(about1hour).

TOSERVEMaybeservedhotorcold;goodwithtea.

FANCYBANANACAKEWITHCASHEWS Twoone-layercakesThis soft cake is considered a real luxury item by foreigners, but inVietnam,wherebananasandcoconutsareplentiful,itisnotsuchanexpensivedish.3eggs1cupsugar

Break theeggs intomixerbowlandadd the sugar.Setthemixer on low speed and blend the sugar and eggsthoroughly. Then turn the speed tomedium setting forabout2minutesoruntilthemixtureisapaleyellowandgetsfluffy.Donotuseahighspeedonthemixer,sincethe slow beating gives the same effect as beating byhand—getting lots of air in and making things staytender.

¾cupwhippingcream

This is a substitute for fresh coconut milk. Pour thecreamintothemixingbowlwiththeeggsandsugarandcontinue tobeat fora fewseconds, justenough tomixthoroughly.Ifyoubeattoolongyouwillhavebutter.

1½cupsflourSifttheflourafteritismeasured.Dumpalltheflourintothe mixing bowl with the egg and sugar and creammixture and stirwith awooden spoon just untilmixed(abouthalfaminute.)

4lbs.veryripebananas

Peelthebananas,andsmasheachonewiththeflatsideofaheavyknifeorcleaver.Justgiveonegoodsmashtoeach banana, don't mash them up into a gooey mess.Addtothebatterwithoutstirring.

¾cupchoppedcashewnuts

Chopthecashewnutscoarsely.Addtothebatter.1cupshredded

freshcoconut

If fresh coconut is not available, packaged sweetenedcoconutmay be substituted. The cakewill be sweeter,but itwill be good.Add the coconut to the batter. Stirjustuntileverythingiswellmixedtogether.

28-inchcakepansOleomargarineorbutterFlour

Greasethecakepansthoroughly,witholeomargarineorbutter. Sift in some flour and shake the pan around sothat sides and bottom are well coated. Pour out theexcessflour.Preheattheovento350F.Pour the batter into the cake pans and bake on centerrack about 55minutes or one hour. The top should begoldenbrown.

TOSERVESliceandservewarmorcold.Theflavorandtextureisdifferent, but it is very good both ways. This is not alight, fluffycake; it isavery tender,solidpudding-likecake.

ALMONDCOOKIESThis oriental favorite is not exclusively Vietnamese—its origin was probablyChinaanditisbestknownintheWesternworldasadessertservedinChineserestaurants.Itisreallyquitesimpletoprepareandcanberelativelyinexpensive.Besuretohidethecookiejar!1cupblanchedalmonds(substitute:cashews)2cupssiftedflour1scantcupsugar(orless)1tsp.

bakingsoda1tsp.salt(omitifsaltednutsareused)

Chopthenutsveryfine inanutchopper.Sift theflourwith the soda, sugar, and salt and add the nuts. Mixtogetherthoroughly.

1cupCrisco(orothervegetableshorting)(forarealtreat,substitutethejuicesqueezedfromfreshgratedcoconut)

Mixintheshorteningasmallamountatatime,rubbingbetweenthehands.Thedoughwillfinallybegintosticktogether. Shape the dough in any way you wish.Traditional shapes are flat, round cookies—anywherefrom1to4inchesacross;orsmallballsthatwillflattenout slightlywhen cooked. If coconutmilk is used, thecookieswillbemorethetextureofoatmealcookies.

Wholealmonds(withskinstillon)(substitute:wholecashews,ifcashewsareusedinthebasicrecipe)Cookiesheet

Placethecookiesonacookiesheet,aboutaninchapart,andgentlypressanalmondintothecenterofeachone.Bake in 350 F oven about 20 minutes. The almondcookies should not be brown, but if cashews aresubstituted thecookieswillbeslightlybrown.Coolonwirerack.Storeinairtightcontainer.

CARAMELRICEPUDDING SixtoeightservingsAquickandeasydessertthatmaybevariedwithseasonalfruitsorservedwithchilledcannedfruitorfruitsalad.4tbsp.sugar2-qt.mold

Putthesugarinthemoldandputonhighheat,forjustafewseconds.Besuremoldwillfitintothesteamerusedbelow.

1tbsp.waterAdd1tbsp.orlessofwater—justenoughtodampenthesugar. Return to stove, on high heat, and cook until aspotofbrownshowssomewhere.Thenliftthemoldoffheatandquickly tiltand turn inacircularmotion.Thebrownwill quickly spread all over. Return to the heatoccasionally, and continue to tilt and turn until it isevenly dark caramel in color. It will be a thin syrup.Cool,occasionallytiltingandturningtocoatthebottomofthemoldandthesidesslightly.

½cupglutinousrice½cupplainrice3cupswaterHeavy3-qt.pot

Putthetwokindsofriceandthewaterintothepot,overhigh heat, and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat tomedium low, cover, and cook until all the water isabsorbed.Removefromheat.

Largemixingbowl6heapingtbsp.sugar

Pourthericeintoalargemixingbowl,addthesugarandmixwell.

2/3cupmilk

3eggsAddthemilk.Breaktheeggsintothemixture,andmixtogetherwellwithaspoon.

Steamer,orlargeskilletwithcoverWater

Pourthepuddingmixtureintothecaramel-coatedmold.Place in a steamer (seepage10), or use a large skilletwithcover.Placewater in theskillet,about1½inchesdeep,putthemoldinthewater,andcover.Bring the steaming water to a boil on high heat andsteamuntilthepuddingisfirm(about20minutes).

TOSERVEChillthoroughly.Loosenpuddingfrommoldbyshakingwith a quick, circular wrist motion. Place a shallowbowlover the topof themold andquickly turnupsidedown.Besuretogetallthecarameloutofthebottomofthemold.Pourchilledcannedfruitsalad,fruitcocktail,orotherin-seasonfruitoverthetop.

CANDIEDWINTERMELONThisdelicacycanoftenbeboughtinorientalgroceries,butcanbemadeathomefresh, too. Naturally, the type made at home is considered much prettier andbetter.ThisisusuallymadeatNewYearstime,whenitiscool,becauseyouneedtokeepaneyeon itwhile itcooks. It isoftencooked ina largecopperkettle,overacharcoalfire.Manypeopleconsiderthisconfectionarealchallenge,sincewintermelonisoneofthemosttenderofallvegetables,andtobeabletocookitforalongenoughperiodtomakeitintoaconfectionsoundsimpossible.5-lb.wintermelon

Buyanolder, toughermelon insteadofayoung tenderone, if possible. Peel themelon and remove the pithyinnersectionwiththeseeds.Discardpeelandpith.Cutthe firm,white outsidemeat into strips at least½ inchthick, about 1 inchwide and from 2 to 4 inches long.Thestripswillshrinkduringcooking.

1tbsp.slakedlime

(calciumhydroxide,availablefromthedruggist)12cupswaterLargepot

(Ifyouprefer,justbuyagallonorsooflimewaterfromyourdruggist.)Putthepowderedcalciumhydroxideandthewaterinalargepot.Stirwell tomix, thendumpinthe pieces of melon. Let soak for one hour. This willgiveaslightlycrunchytexturetothefinalproduct.Drainoffthelimewaterandrinsethemelonthoroughlyundercoolrunningwater.

2tbsp.alum12cupswater

Pound the alum into a fine powder. Mix it with thewater,makingcertainthereisenoughliquidtocoverthewinter melon pieces. Put the melon in and let soakovernight. This soaking in alumwatermakes the finalproduct firm. Otherwise, the winter melon would getmushyaftercookingitmorethan15minutes.Next day, drain the alumwater from themelon piecesand,withoutrinsing,coverwithfreshwater.Bringtoaboilandcookabout4or5minutesonmediumheat.Drain the melon again, and this time rinse very verywellundercool runningwater.Drainandwash severaltimes, to be sure all the traces of alum water areremoved. The alum also has a tendency to make theconfectionturnyellow,iftheheatgetsalittletoohigh.

Electricskillet4cupssugar

If an extra-large electric skillet is available, it may bepossibletocookallthemelonpiecesatthesametime.Ifnot,divide inhalfandcooktwobatches. (Orhalve therecipe?) Mix the sugar and the melon pieces togetherand put into the electric skillet. Set the temperature at250Fandcookabout20minutes.Turn thepiecesandmove them about frequently (gently, gently) using

chopsticks,tongs,oraspoon.Waterwillbegintocomeoutofthemelon,lotsofsyrupyjuicewillform,andthepieceswillbeginshrinking.Increasetheheatto300Fandcontinuetocookabout10minutes.Thisiswhenitisimportanttowatchcloselytokeep the confection from turning yellow. Turn eachpiece frequently to allow proper drainage and equalcontactwiththeheatforeachpiece.Reduce the heat to 250 F once more and continue tocook,turningthepiecesoccasionally,untilthejuicehasalmost all been absorbed. There should still be acovering of syrup over the bottom of the pan. Reducetheheatto200Fandcookuntilallthejuiceisabsorbed.Don't rush it—the total cooking time will be 3 or 4hours.Ifyoutrytocookittoofast,thepieceswillturnyellowish and will not be nearly so pretty. The colorshould be almost clear, and the pieces will be almosttransparent.

TOSERVEServeasacandy,oruseincake(seepage99).

FRESHORANGECONFECTION Four(ormore)servingsThislightandrefreshingdessertisaslovelytolookatasitistoeat.4naveloranges(large)

Shaveoffa thin layerof theouterskin, leavinghalformore of the inner part of the skin intact. The orangeshouldstillhaveanorangetinttoit—don'tpeelawaytothewhitepithinside.Makesixdeepslitslengthwiseintheskinoftheorange,cuttingdeepintotheinside,startingaboutoneinchfromthestemendandrunningtowithinaboutoneinchofthenavelend.

LargepotWatertocover

Puttheorangesintothepotandcoverwithwater.Bringto a boil and continue boiling onmedium heat for 30minutes.Thismakesthepulptender.Drain theoranges, and submerge in coldwater to cooloff. When cooled, poke with a sharp knife aroundthroughthesideslitstoloosenthepithandpulp.Slowlyand gently press the top of each orange until the slitswidenandtheorangebeginstoflatten.Gently,withthefingers, pull out the extra pulp and pith that appearsbetweenthesidesofeachslit.Continuetopressuntiltheorangesareonly1½to2 incheshigh.Theslitswillbefairly wide, and much of the pulp will be discarded.Leavesomeofthepulpinside.

1tsp.alumWatertocover

Place the oranges again in the saucepan,withwater tocover.Mixinthealum,whichwillkeeptheorangerindfirm so it will not disintegrate during the followingcooking. Bring to a boil on high heat, then lower theheattomediumandboilforanother30minutes.Drain off the hot alumwater, and oncemore cool theorangesincoldwater.Whencool,pressfirmlytodrain,thenletdraininacolanderoronacakecoolergridforabout5minutes.

2cupssugarcupwater

Put the oranges into the saucepanoncemore, pour thesugaroverthem,thenpourthewateroverall.Bringtoaboil quicklyonhighheat, then reduce theheat to low.Let the oranges simmer slowly until the syrup hasalmost completely disappeared. Turn the oranges overoccasionally,usinggreatcarenottotearthem.

TOSERVEServe cool. May be sliced into small portions, or forthosewhoknowabouttheseorangesserveoneforeachindividual. These can be refrigerated for two or threemonthsifkeptinatightlysealedcontainer.Canalsobe

frozen.

HORSD'OEUVRESTHESERECIPESarenotnecessarilyusedashorsd'oeuvres inVietnam,buthavebeenfoundtoserveespeciallywellinthatguiseamongforeigners.Alloftheserecipesmay also be served as one of several or even as themain course at aregularmeal.

FRIEDSHRIMPPATTIESThis is good as an hors-d'oeuvre, as a light luncheonwith lettuce, ormay beservedasthemaindishwithrice,soup,andsalad.1clovegarlicDashofpepper1lb.ShrimpPaste

Mash and chop the garlic clove fine. Add it into thebasic SHRIMP PASTE (page 25), then add pepper andcontinuetokneaduntilthoroughlymixedin.

Deep-fatfryerorheavyskillet1-inchcookingoil

Form theShrimpPaste into smallpattiesabout½ inchthick, 3 or 4 inches across, and drop into hot oil. Fryquicklyonmediumhighheatuntilbrownonbothsides(about2or3minutes).

TOSERVEServepipinghotwithrice,NUOCMAMSAUCE(page23),leaf lettuce, mint, and Chinese parsley, if served as amain dish. Serve piping hot with a side dish of NuocMamSauceandaplatterofleaflettuceandminttowrapthepatties,ifservedashors-d'oeuvres.

BARBECUEDSHRIMPPATTIES2clovesgarlic

2tbsp.fatorcookingoil¼tsp.pepper2lbs.ShrimpPaste

Mash and chop the garlic fine. Add garlic, fat orcooking oil, and pepper to the BASIC SHRIMP PASTE(page25).Kneaduntilthoroughlymixed.Setaside.

BarbecuestoveandrackCharcoal

Makefire.ShapetheShrimpPasteintosmallpattiesabout½inchthick,and3or4inchesacross.Placetheshrimppattieson the rackandput itoverburningcharcoal.Barbecueuntilbrownonbothsides.

TOSERVEServehot.Wrapinlettuceleaves,includingmintleaves,anddipinasidedishofNUOCMAMSAUCE(page23).

STEAMEDSHRIMPLOAF FourservingsThismakesaverygoodhorsd'oeuvre,servedeitherhotorcold.Itisalsoagoodmaindish,servedwithriceandsalad.Steamerpan2freshtileavesorafreshbananaleaf(substitute:cloth)Cookingoil

See page 10 for a description of the steamer and thegeneralprocedureforitsuse.Washtheleaves,drywitha paper towel or dish towel, and oil slightly. Place theleaves in the topsectionof thesteamerpanasa liningover theholes in thebottom.Apieceofcloselywovencloth such as a tea towel may be oiled and used as asubstitute, if the leaves are not available. Leaves areused in Vietnam as themost practical thing. They arediscardedafteruse.

ShrimpPastePatout theSHRIMPPASTE (page 25) on the leaves in aflat round cake about½ inch thick.Add coldwater tothe bottom section of the steamer, set the top in placewiththeshrimpcakeinside,andcover.After thewatercomestoaboil,begin timing.Steam,onhighheat, forabout 7 or 8 minutes (just until firm). There willprobablybeasmallresidueofliquidontopoftheloaf.Blotthisupwithapapertowel,beingcarefulnottogetasteamburnonyourhandorarm.

1eggyolkUse the yolk of the egg left over when making theshrimppaste.Beatyolkslightlyandspreadoverthetopof the hot shrimp loaf with a pastry brush. Let stand,uncovered,inthesteameruntileggyolkisslightlyfirm.Donotcover.Ifitiscovered,theyolkgetstoohardandthesmellis"eggy."

TOSERVERemove shrimp loaf to a plate and slice into squares.Servehotorcold,withNUOCMAMSAUCE(page23).Ifserved as a main dish, it should be accompanied bysteamedrice,asalad,andasoup.

SHRIMPONTOASTThisisadelicioushorsd'oeuvreoraluncheoneatenwithlettuce,mint,Chineseparsley,andslicedcucumbers.lb.ShrimpPaste¼tsp.pepper

AddpeppertotheSHRIMPPASTE(page25)andmixwell.Thin-slicedbread

For this recipe two-or three-day-old bread is best. Cutthe bread into rounds or squares, of a size that can beeasilymanagedasanhors-d'oeuvre.SpreadtheShrimpPaste on one side of the bread, in whatever thicknessyoulike.

Deepfatfryeror

heavyskillet2inchesofcookingoil

Heat oil and fry the Shrimp onToast until brown. Frytheshrimp-sidedownfirst,thenthebreadside.

TOSERVEServehot.WrapShrimponToast in lettucewithmint,Chinese parsley, and a side dish ofNUOCMAM SAUCE(page23)fordipping.

STEAMEDFISHLOAFBeginwith the basic recipe for FISHPASTE (page 25), and continue as below.Thisisgoodashorsd'oeuvres,ormaybeusedasamaindishforalightmeal.2clovesgarlic2lb.FishPasteDashofblackpepper

Chopandcrushthegarliccloves.AddtotheFishPastewith the black pepper and continue to knead andsqueezeuntilmixedinthoroughly.

SteamerTileaves,bananaleaf,oroiledcloth

Line the steamer top with leaves or with a piece ofclosely-wovenclothwhichhasbeenwellsaturatedwithcookingoil, so that theholesarecovered.Seepage10fordetailedinstructionsonusingasteamer.Patthefishpasteout intoaflat, roundcakeabout1 inchthickandplaceontopoftheleaves.Placeinthesteamertop,overboilingwater in the steamerbottom,andcover.Steam,overhighheat,6 to8minutes, justuntil firm.Thefishloaf will turn whiter. Turn off heat, and remove thecover. Excess liquid will have collected on top of thefish loaf and it should be carefully blotted off with apapertowel.Becarefulnottogetasteamburn.

1eggyolkPastrybrush

UsetheeggyolkleftoverwhenmakingtheFishPaste.Stirtheyolkjustuntilmixed,andbrushallofitontothetopof the fish loaf.Let the loaf remain in thesteamer,uncovered, justuntil theyolksets.Donotcoveragain,or theyolkwillget toohardandtakeonanunpleasanteggytaste.Removesteamerfromheatandallowtocooloffforafewminutes.

TOSERVEThismaybeservedhotorcold,andisverygoodservedasahothorsd'oeuvresinceitwillalsobetastywhenitgets cooled off! Slice into 1-inch squares to serve. Itshould be served with a side dish of NUOC MAMSAUCE(page23) fordipping thesquares.Thismayalsobeservedasamaindish,withasoup,saladandrice.

FRIEDFISHLOAFONTOASTThisisanespeciallygoodhothorsd'oeuvre.2clovesgarlic2lb.FishPaste

Chop andmash the garlic fine. Add to the basic FISHPASTE(page25),kneadinguntilthoroughlymixedin.

Thin-slicedbreadCutthebreadintoroundsorsquares,ofasizethatcanbeeasilymanagedasanhorsd'oeuvre.Spread the fishpaste on one side of the bread, in whatever thicknessyou like. You'd probably better experiment a little tobeginwith,beforetheguestsbegintoarrive.

Deepfatfryer,ordeepskillet2inchesofcookingoilinfryerorskillet

Heat theoiland fry the fish-on-toast.Frywith the fishsidedownfirst,thenthebreadside.

TOSERVEServe wrapped in leaf lettuce, with mint, Chineseparsley,andasidedishofNUOCMAMSAUCE(page23)fordipping.

FRIEDFISHPATTIESThisisgoodasanaccompanimenttoaheaviermeal,asanhors(Toeuvre,asalight luncheonwith lettuce,ormaybeservedas themaindishwithrice,soup,andsalad.2clovesgarlic2lb.FishPaste

Mash and chop the garlic cloves fine. Add to thebasicFISHPASTErecipe(page25)andcontinuetokneaduntilthoroughlymixedin.

Deepfatfryer2inchescookingoil

Formthepasteintosmallcakesabout½inchthick,3or4 inches across, and drop into hot oil. Fry quickly, onmediumtomediumhighheatuntilbrownonbothsides(about2or3minutes).

TOSERVEServepipinghotwithrice,NUOCMAMSAUCE(page23)and leaf lettuce, if used as a main dish or as anaccompanimenttoameal.Servepipinghot,withasidedishofNuocMamSauceandaplatterofleaflettucetowrappiecesofthecakein,ifservedasanhorsd'oeuvre.

PORKCHEESESomepeople object to the basic idea of eating pig's head. Just don't tell themwhat they're eating and theywill probably enjoy it verymuch!Makes a goodhorsd'oeuvre,andisgoodfordieters.Itisalsoeasytocarryonapicnic.1/3cup(loosepack)driedtreefungusHotwatertocover

Ina2-quartcontainer,putthepiecesofdriedtreefungus

(seepage20)tosoakinhotwater,foratleastonehour.Thepieceswillexpandconsiderably,andwillresembleblack, thin,mushrooms.When soft, cut the very largepiecesinhalfandremovethestemsoranyblackspeckswherethefunguswasgrowingontothetree.

½smallpig'shead,boned

Ask the butcher to give you half a head, cleaned andboned, It should have one ear and half the snout, andshould have the skin still on.Wash the headwell, andcleanoffanyremainingbristles thatyoucaneasilygetoff.Itwillbeeasiertogettheheadcompletelycleanedofbristlesafter it cooksa littlewhile, in thenext step.Cutinto3or4pieces.

LargepotWater

Put the pieces in the pot and cover with cold water.Coverpot,bringtoaboil,andcookonhighheatabout30 minutes. Drain head meat in a colander, and rinsewellunderrunningcoldwatertocleanandcool.Cutinsmallpieces,not larger than¼X2X3inches,cuttingtheearintonarrowstrips,andremovinganyremainingsmall bones. Also finish cleaning off" any remainingbristles. Some people prefer less fat, so the excess fatshouldberemovedatthispointifyoudon'twantit.Besure to include the ears, skin, and snout. That is whatmakesthecheesejell.

2largeshallots(orwhitepartofgreenonions)1tbsp.cookingoilLargeskillet

Sliceshallotsinverythinrounds.Heattheoilinalargeskillet,andsautetheshallotsforafewseconds,untiltheodor begins to rise.Add the pieces of tree fungus andhead meat, reduce the heat to medium and saute,stirring,about3minutes.

1½tsp.peppercorns

Add thewhole peppercorns, stir, and continue to cookon medium heat another 2 minutes. This gives a nicespicyflavor,andisalsodecorative.

1½tbsp.fishsauceAddfishsauce,stirwellandcook,stirring,for1minute.Removefromheat.

Bagmadeofcheeseclothorotherlooselywovencloth(about10to12incheslong,3or4inchesacross)

Atthisstep, inVietnam, themixture iswrappedina tileaforbananaleafandtiedfirmly.Theseleaveshavenoparticulartasteoftheirownandareverysturdy.Ittakesmuchpracticeanddexteritytodothisalone.Aclothbagwillservethesamepurpose,andcanbemadeathome.Stuff the meat mixture into the bag, pressing it downintothebagsoitispackedvery,verytight.Whenallisstuffedintothebag, tie thetopormakethebagwithadrawstring,andhangituptodrip.Placeitoverapanorother container to catch the greasy drip. Therewill beverylittledrip,actually;andthedripwilljellintostringsalmostlikeiciclesonthebottomofthebag.When thoroughly cooled, place into plastic bag (clothbag and all), or aluminum foil, to keep it from dryingout.Putthispackageintoaloaforothersmallpan,andputaheavyweightontop,topressthemixturetogethermore firmly. Chill in refrigerator at least three hoursbefore serving. It should be firmly jelled, about theconsistencyofpressedham.

TOSERVEUnwrap,removetheclothbag,andcutin1-inchslices.

Cuteachsliceintoquartersorsixths.Servecold,ashorsd'oeuvres. Best servedwith a side dish ofNUOCMAMSAUCE(page23)asadip.Mayalsobeservedasalightluncheon, with steamed rice, leaf lettuce, and NuocMamSauce.

STEAMEDBUNS Yield:twodozenHereisanotherkindofbunthatisgoodpartyfare,butisalsoanexceptionallygoodmealinitself.FILLING3driedmushrooms10driedlilyflowers(optional)Warmwatertocover

Soak thedriedmushroomsand lily flowers together inwarmwater tocoveruntil soft (about15minutes).Cutaway the stem portion of themushrooms and discard.Discard the hard end of the lily flower stem.Chop allveryfine.

Pieceofbambooshoot(partofacan,optional)1shallot(or1smallonion)5or6fresh(frozen)shrimp,shelled

Drain the bamboo shoot. Be sure to use the Chinesekind, because of the flavor. Chop the bamboo shoot,shallot,andshrimpveryfine.

1/3lb.leangroundpork¼tsp.saltDashofblackpepper

2tbsp.cookingoilLargeheavyskillet

Heat the cooking oil in the heavy skillet on mediumhighheat.Putinthegroundpork,salt,pepper,choppedmushroom, lily flowers, bamboo shoot, shallot, andshrimp.Saute,stirringconstantly,onmediumhighheatabout5minutes.

1tsp.fishsauceAddthefishsauce,stir,andremovefromheat.Setasidetocool.

DOUGH1½cupsriceflour½cuppotatoflour1eggwhite1tsp.salt¾cupwater1tsp.cookingoil

Mixtheeggwhite,salt,oil,andwatertogether,beatingwellwitha fork.Mix the twokindsof flour ina largebowl.Pourinthewaterandeggmixtureandmixwell.Knead,whenitgetsstiff.Putonalightlyflouredboardandrollout.Foldthedoughoverseveraltimestomakea ball of the dough, and roll out again. Repeat thisfoldingandrollingprocess5or6times.Rolloutthedoughasthinaspossible.Cutintocircles3or 4 inches across.Use a large cookie cutter or a cup,saucer,orotherrounditem,cuttingaroundtheedgewithaverysharpknife.Place 1 teaspoonful of filling in the center, slightly toonesideofeachcircle.Foldthecircleofdoughinhalfover the filling and crimp the edges closed, using thefingers or a fork. This makes a flat-and fat-bottomedhalf-circle.

Steamer(page10)Placehotwaterinthebottomsectionofthesteamer.Putthebunsinthetopsection,standingeachbunonitsflat

side,withthecrimpedhalf-circleedgepointingup.Putthetopsectionofthesteamerinplaceoverthebottom,cover,andsteamonhighheatabout30minutes.

TOSERVEServehot,orwarm.Maybereheated in thesteamer. Ifdesired, make a supply ahead and freeze them. Thawbefore reheating.Good servedwithNUOCMAM SAUCE(page23)asadip.

LITTLESTUFFEDBUNSThis isverygoodasanhorsd'oeuvre,butmayalsobeservedwithadinnerasanaccompaniment.

1cupflour3tbsp.shortening(lard)

Cut in shortening as for pie dough. Lard is used inVietnam, because it ismore available and because theflavorispreferred.

1eggAdd the egg.Mixwell, and knead several times. Rollout,foldover,androlloutagain.Repeatthisrollingandfolding5or6times.

STUFFING½lb.boiledleanpork(page23)

Slice,thencutintoveryfinestrips,thencutintosmallerpieces(about1/8-inchcubes,orsmaller).

5driedmushroomsWatertocover

Soak mushrooms 15 minutes in warm water to cover.Chopveryfine(samesizeasmeatparticles).

1smallonionChop into fine pieces, same size as meat andmushrooms.

2or3waterchestnuts2tbsp.almonds

Chop water chestnuts and almonds into fine pieces,samesizeasotheringredients.

1tsp.oilMediumskillet

Mix everything together, heat the oil and saute themixture,stirring,about1minuteonmediumhighheat.

¼tsp.salt1tbsp.fishsauceDashofblackpepper

Mixthesalt, fishsauce,andpepperintothemixtureintheskillet,stirwell,andcookabout3moreminutesonmediumheat.Setasidetocool.Backtothedough.Rollitasthinaspossible.Paperthin,ifyoucan.Cutinapproximately3-inchsquares.Putateaspoonofthemeatmixtureinthecenterofeachsquare.Tofoldup:Firstfoldthethirdthatistowardyouover the meat. Then fold the opposite side over. Thiswillmake an oblong roll. Press the ends closed. Thenfoldeachendintowardthecenter.

TOBAKEPreheatovento350F.Placethebunsonacookiesheetandbakeabout30minutes,oruntilgoldenbrown.

TOFRYFry in deep fat, a few at a time, until golden brown.Thesecanbekeptwarmintheovenuntilserved.Canbefrozen,andreheatedintheovenafterthawing.

STUFFEDBREAD Abaker'sdozenThis stuffed bread is the Vietnamese version of an Asian favorite that wasperhapsoriginallyChinese.Thisdoughislighterthantheusual,andthestuffingalittletastier.Itiseasytomakethisaheadoftimeinlargequantities,andfreeze

forfutureuse.Tofreeze,besuretosteamthedoughfirst.Whenremovingfromthefreezer,putthefrozenbunsintothesteamerandsteamabout20minutes,oruntilsoft.THEDOUGH¾cupmilk

Scald the milk, then set aside to cool until it islukewarm.

⅓cuplukewarmwater¼tsp.sugar¾tsp.driedyeast

Mixthesugarandwater;addtheyeastandletitsoakatleast5minutes.Thenaddthemilk.

3cupsflour¼tsp.salt1tsp.sugar

Sift the flour, salt, and sugar together. Add the flourmixturetothemilkandyeastmixtureandmixwell.

1tbsp.shorteningMelt the shortening andmix into the dough. Stir untilthe dough forms a ball, then put out onto a lightlyfloured board and knead until elastic (about 5 or 10minutes).Formthedoughintoaballthatshouldbesoftbutnotsticky.

Medium-sizebowlClothtocover

Putthedoughintoacleanbowlandcoverwithadampcloth. Put it in a warm place (about 85° F.) until itdoublesinbulk,takingprobably2or3hours,oritcanbeleftovernighttorise,ifdesired.Punch the dough down and knead for only 2 or 3minutes. Put it back in the warm place for 20 or 30minutesmore,afterwhichitshouldbereadytouse.

THESTUFFING3tbsp.driedshrimp(optional)Warm

watertocoverSoakthedriedshrimpinwarmwatertocoverforabout15minutes.Chopfine.(This isoptional—manypeopleprefer to omit or to substitute a few pieces of freshshrimp.)

½lb.leangroundpork2shallots(orwhitepartofgreenonions)2Chinesesausages½tsp.saltDashofmonosodiumglutamate

Slicetheshallotsinverythinrounds.SlicetheChinesesausagesthin,atanangle.Mixthegroundpork,shallots,slicedsausages,salt,andmonosodiumglutamate.Thenaddthefinelychoppedshrimp.Mixalltogetherwell.

1tbsp.fishsauceMix the fish sauce in, and set aside until the dough isreadytobestuffed.

STUFFINGVARIATION2tbsp.cookingoilHeavyskillet

Somepeopleprefertosautethestuffingbeforeputtingitinto the middle of the dough. If you wish to try it,preheat the oil, and saute the stuffing mix for 2 or 3minutesonhighheat,stirringconstantly.

TOPREPARE13squareswhitepaper(3x3inches)

Punch the dough down again. Pinch off an egg-sizedlumpofthedoughandrollgentlybetweenthehandstomakeaball.Thenflattenandspreadwiththehands,into

acircleabout4inchesacross.Putaheapingteaspoonfulof thestuffing in thecenterof thecircle,pull thesidesup and fold over and pinch together to close; patwiththe fingers to make a smooth ball. Put the pinched-togethersidedownonasquareofwhitepaper.Let thebunsraiseanother15or20minutesbeforesteaming.

Steamer(seepage10)

Putwaterinthebottomsectionofthesteamer,andplaceonhighheat.Intheuppersection,place4buns(or5,or6, depending on the size of your steamer). They willincreaseinsizesoleaveatleastoneinchbetweenbuns.Cover the upper section of the steamer. Let the bunssteamonhighheatuntildone(about15minutes).

TOSERVEServehotorcold.Goodasacompletemeal,withalittlesaladorsoup.Wonderfultotakealongonapicnic.

INDEXalmondcookies,101alumforcandyingfruit,11asparagussoupwithcrabmeat,33bambooshootsdried,11stewedwithchicken,86duck,88shrimp,67

withbeef&sesameseeds,57beef,sauteed,59

bananacake,100withcashews,100

leaves,11barbecuedduck,89whole,90porkonskewers,42shrimppatties,105

basicrecipes,21-28beancurd,12soupwithpork,29

beansauce,12beansprouts,12salad,pickled,92withboiledpork,92

beanthread,12soupwithchicken,37crab&lilyflowers,34giblets,36

shrimpballs,33withchicken,79porkmix,47

beans,green,11withbeefsaute,60crab&mushroomsaute,72shrimpsaute,70

beefground,withnoodles,65maindishes,57-65soup-salad,62soupwithpineapple,35tomatoes,36

stew,57withbambooshoots,59cabbage,60greenbeans,60noodles&vegetables,64noodles,sauteed,61sesameseed&bambooshoots,57squash,58steamedbread,63

boraxforcleaningshrimp,12breadsteamed,withbeefsaute,63stuffed,111

bunssteamed,109stuffed,110

cabbage,12Chinese,13soupwithfishcake,32soupwithshrimpcake,32

mustard,13soupwithshortribs,31

rolls,49withbeef,60

cakebanana,100withcashews,100

princess,97soft,coconut-sesameflavored,99

candiedwintermelon,103carambole,20caramelizedpork,45ricepudding,102

caramelizedsugar,27

cashewnutbananacake,100chestnuts,water,20chickenandbeanthread,79baked,77boiled,24Cornishhens,stuffed,77curried,80friedwithcitronella,80rice,85tomatoes,81

gibletsandvegetables,83soupwithbeanthread,36

maindishes,77-87salad,95sauteedwithvegetables,82shreddedwithrice,87soup-salad,84soupwithbeanthread,37rice,38wintermelon,38

steamedwithgingerroot,78

stewwithbambooshoots,86chilipepper,13Chinesecabbage,13soupwithfishcake,32soupwithshrimpcake,32

fishgravy,15noodles,18parsley,13peas,13ricesticks,18sausage,13shrimpsauce,20wintermelon,20yams,13

cinnamon,stick,14citronella,14withfriedchicken,80

coconut,14filling,98howtoopen,14juice,15milk,15,26sesame-coconutsoftcake,99water,15stewwithpork,45

coconut-sesamefilling,98cookies,almond,101Cornishhens,stuffed,77cornstarch,15crabmeatloaf,steamed,71omelet,73rollswithfriedpork,74soupwithasparagus,33lilyflowers&beanthread,34

sauteedwithgreenbeans&mushrooms,72cucumber

salad,93stuffed,50

curriedchicken,80shrimp,68

desserts,97-104cakebanana,100bananawithcashews,100princess,97soft,coconut-sesameflavored,99

coconut-sesamefilling,98cookies,almond,101orangeconfection,104ricepudding,102sweetballs,fried,100wintermelon,candied,103

duck,88-91barbecued,89whole,90

saffron,barbecued,89sauteedwithturnips,90soup,39steamed,88stewedwithbambooshoots,88

eggplant,15withpork,44

equipment,9-10fishcake,soupwithChinesecabbage,32watercress,32

gravy,15loafontoast,107steamed,107

paste,25patties,fried,108saffronfish,67

fish(continued)sauce,15soup,32

flour,15-16manioc,16potato,16rice,16glutinous,16

tapioca,16wheat,15

fryingpans,9fungus,tree,20gibletsandvegetables,83soupwithbeanthread,36

gingerrootdried,reconstituted,16fresh,16withsteamedchicken,78

greenbeans,seebeans,green

greensinsoupwithshortribs,31horsd'oeuvres,105-112bread,stuffed,111bunssteamed,109stuffed,110

fishloafontoast,107steamed,107

fishpatties,108porkcheese,108salad"sandwich,"96shrimpleaf,steamed,106ontoast,106patties,105patties,barbecued,105

ingredients

availability,8described,11-20

Japanesenoodles(somen),18knives,9leeks,16lemongrass,14lilyflowers,16

soupwithcrab&beanthread,34longrice,seebeanthread

lotusroot,16soupwithshortribs,30

meatloafcrabmeat,71

meatloaf(continued)fish,107pork,46shrimp,106

melonbitter,12winter,20candied,103soupwithchicken,38soupwithshortribs,30

milk,coconut,15,26mint,16monosodiumglutamate,17mortar&pestle,9mushroomsdried,17fresh,17sauteedwithcrab&greenbeans,72straw,17

mustardcabbage,13soupwithshortribs,31

noodlesChinese,17-18salad-soup,52withbeef&vegetables,64

withgroundbeef,65Japanese,18withgroundbeef,65withslicedbeef,61

nuocleosauce,27nuocmansauce,23oil,onion,28omeletcrabmeat,73pork,55pork&shrimp,54

onionoil,28onions,18green,18shallots,19

orangeconfection,104pancake-omelet,pork&shrimp,54papaya,18green,salad,94

parsley,Chinese,13paste,seefishpasteandshrimppastepeanuts,18peas,Chinese,13pepper,chili,13pickledbeansproutssalad,92withboiledpork,92

pigfeetstew,48pineapple,18soupwithbeef,35shrimp,35

porkbarbecuedonskewers,42boiled,23cabbagerolls,49caramelized,45cheese,108crab&friedporkrolls,74cucumbers,stuffed,50

maindishes,40-56meatloaf,46noodlesalad-soup,52omelet,55pancake-omelet,54potroast,40rind,salad,95shortribs,42sweet-sour,41

soup-salad,52soupwithbeancurd,29stew,40dry,43withcoconutwater,45withpigsfeet,48

stuffedcucumbers,50stuffedtomatoes,51

porkandbeansproutsalad,92beanthread,47eggplant,44shrimppancake-omelet,54

potroast,pork40pots,10pudding,caramelrice,102rice,18cooked,21withshreddedchicken,87

flour,19friedwithchicken,85shrimp,71

glutinous,18noodles,17paper,19potroasted,22pudding,102roasted,18soupwithchicken,38

sticks,18wine,19

roasts,pork,40saffron,19duck,barbecued,89eggplantwithpork,44fish,67

salad-soupbeef,62chicken,84noodle,52pork,52

salads,92-96beansprout,pickled,92withboiledpork,92

chicken,95cucumber,93greenvegetable,94papaya,green,94porkrind,95"sandwich,"96soup-saladbeef,62chicken,84noodle,52

turnip,94saucesfish,15nuocleo,27nuocman,23shrimp,20tomatowithfriedshrimp,69shrimp,70

sausage,Chinese,13seafood,66-76,seealsocrabmeatfishshrimp

squidsesameseed,19coconut-sesamecake,99fillingforsweetballs,98sweetballs,fried,100withbeef&bambooshoots,57

shallots,19shortribssoupwithlotusroot,30mustardcabbage,31turnip,31wintermelon,30

sweet-sour,41shrimp,19balls,33

shrimp(continued)boiled,24cake,soupwithChinesecabbage,32watercress,33

cleaningwithborax,12curried,68dried,19friedintomatosauce,69loaf,steamed,106ontoast,106paste,25loaf,steamed,106ontoast,106patties,barbecued,105patties,fried,105soupwithChinesecabbage,32

pattiesbarbecued,105fried,105

sauce,20saute,66soupwith

beanthread,33pineapple,35

stewwithbambooshoots,67shrimpandfriedrice,71greenbeansaute,70porkpancake-omelet,54tomatosauce,70

skeweredpork,42skillets,9soup-saladbeef,62chicken,84noodle,52pork,52

soups,29-39,seealsostewsbeefandpineapple,35tomato,36

chickenwithbeanthread,37rice,38wintermelon,38

crabwithasparagus,33lilyflowers&beanthread,34

duck,39giblet&beanthread,36lotusroot&shortribs,30pork&beancurd,29

soups(continued)shortribwithmustardcabbage,31turnips,31wintermelon,30

shrimpandpineapple,35shrimpballs&beanthread,33shrimpcakeandChinesecabbage,32watercress,33

soybeancurd,12squash,20bittermelon,12zucchiniwithbeef,58

squid,20stuffed,76

starapple,20steamers,10stewbeef,57chicken&bamboo,86duck&bamboo,88pork,40andcoconutwater,45dry,43

shrimp&bamboo,67stuffedcabbagerolls,49cucumbers,50squid,76tomatoes,51

sugar,caramelized,27sweetballs,fried,100sweetsourshortribs,41syrup,caramel,27tea,22tileaves,20tomatoes,20paste,20saucewithfriedshrimp,69shrimp,70

soupwithbeef,36stuffed,51withfriedchicken,81

treefungus,20turnipsalad,94sautedwithduck,90

soupwithshortribs,31utensils,9-10vegetables,green,salad,94waterchestnuts,20watercresssoupwithfishcake,32shrimpcake,33

wintermelon,20soup,30,38

wine,rice,19yams,Chinese,13zucchinisquashwithbeef,58