utomotive Wiring Tips - Using Relays
Things To Consider When Wiring Accessories...When wiring
anything in your vehicle that draws heavy current such as high
powered offroad lights or audio amplifiers, there are a few things
to consider. Number one, make sure you use wire that is rated for
the amperage that the accessories is going to pull. It is always
better to have wire that is OVER rated rather than wire that is not
rated high enough. If wire is used that is not rated to handle the
current that your accessory will pull, the result could be
overheated wires that could melt the insulation or the electrical
plugs found throughout your vehicle (see image below), causing a
short or worse yet it could result in a fire. If you know how much
current your accessory will draw you can determine what gauge wire
is appropriate for your application.
Personally I like to use wire that far exceeds the current draw
of my accessory. It's overkill but in a few applications I've used
heavy gauge stranded industrial wire with water and chemical
resistant insulation. That way there is no question as to whether
the wire is rated high enough or not. If this approach is taken, it
is very wise to place a fuse at the battery end as close to the
battery as possible. Most wire in a vehicle, if shorted out, will
burn up before the battery overheats and possibly explodes. If wire
that is over-rated for vehicle use is used and a short occurs, a
short will most likely result in damage to the vehicle of some sort
unless a fuse is put in line as close to the battery as possible.
With the fuse there, in the case of a dead short, the fuse will
burn out first before any damage could occur.
Above, a melted electrical connector that had been
overloaded.
T-Tap connector
Where to Get your PowerThe second important thing to consider
when adding accessories is to determine where you will get your
power. Many people will consider tapping into the hot wire of an
existing circuit using something called a T-tap or quick slide
connector, which are designed specifically fortapping into an
existing wire. This is not always a good idea for several reasons.
First and foremost, tapping into an existing circuit puts
additional load on that circuit. The additional load placed on a
circuit or wire may exceed the limits of those wires, connectors
and fuse. Overloading a circuit will do one of two things. First,
it may blow a fuse. So people will sometimes place a larger fuse in
the fuse block to handle the extra load on that circuit. BAD IDEA!
The fuse may hold but the resulting extra current may be more that
the wire is rated for creating heat that can melt wires and
connectors and start fires! The connector to the right was
overloaded and fused two adjacent terminals together, causing a
short the blew the vehicles main fuse. Before the fuse blew the
connector actually started to burn. The wire that carried the extra
load also had melted its insulation and in places was exposed.
Luckily for the owner of this vehicle, it did not result in a fire
but in many cases it does.A better idea....With accessories that
pull a lot of power it is always better to get your power directly
from the batteries positive terminal rather than tapping into the
existing fuse block or wiring harness. In most cases the vehicles
existing fuse blocks, wires and connectors are not rated to handle
the additional load of high powered accessories such as offroad
lights and amplifiers. If you are the kind of person that likes to
add all kind of goodies to your vehicle it might be worth
installing an additional fuse block that handles non-critical items
like offroad lights, CB radios, power inverters, audio equipment,
etc. This additional block can then be powered by a heavy duty wire
capable of carrying the current required of all the accessories on
the block. Be sure to fuse the block at the battery.
Another important thing to consider is how you control the
switching on/off of the power to your accessories.In almost every
case where high current is required, the switch you will use to
turn on the power should not handle the load because most switches
are not designed to handle higher amps. The job of switching the
power is better left to a relay. What is a relay? A relay is a
device that, through a magnetic induction coil, turns on the power
for you. The switch that is installed in the cab of your 4x4
actually only powers the relay itself which draws very little
current. In most installations a 30 AMP relay from Radio Shack
(Auto Relay Cat. Number 275-226) will do unless your amperage
demands exceed 30 amps. I like to used a lighted switch in the cab
to let me know if driving lights are on.
Offroad Lights or Accessory Wiring Diagram using a 4 - Pole
Relay Relay
Click to Enlarge
The method I use for wiring the lights and other external
accessories, for the most part, follows the diagram pictured above.
As in the diagram a wire is run from a 12 volt power source to the
switch in the cab and out to the relay placing a fuse at the source
of the power. (Follow the relay's wiring schematic when connecting
the wires to the relay) One of the relays terminals goes to ground.
Then run a heavy gauge wire from the battery to the relay placing a
30 Amp fuse in line very close to the battery. Do not connect the
power to the battery until all wiring is done. Then I run a single
heavy gauge wire out to the lights or other accessory. If
installing lights, split it into two leads at the lights. If you do
this be sure the wire is rated to handle BOTH lights since it will
carry the current of both. The diagram shows two leads coming from
the relay. Then I run the second wire of the lights or other
accessory to a good ground on the frame of the vehicle. If the
wires will not be soldered together and crimped connectors will be
used it's a good idea to put a dielectric paste on the connectors
where they come in contact. This will prevent corrosion as time
passes ensuring a good connection. Then double-checked all wiring
before plugging in the power.
Electrical: Circuits, Wiring, Relays, SwitchesFAQ Home
Volvo Maintenance FAQ for 7xx/9xx/90 Cars Version 5.0Electrical
Diagnosis TipsFuse LocationsRelay LocationsHot Fuel Pump RelayRelay
and Fuse Panel RemovalRelay/Fuse Panel Base ReplacementRelay Repair
vs. ReplacementPower Window SwitchesPower Door Lock FailureBaked
Engine WiringMaintaining Chassis GroundsDielectric vs. Conductive
Grease to Protect Connectors and GroundsCircuit Board and Contact
RepairPower Windows Operate in OFFRelays Run HotSlow Battery
DischargeMultiple Electrical Failure: Ignition Switch BadCruise
Control Surges: Worn Servo
Electrical Diagnosis Tips. For a superb introduction to basic
automobile electrical diagnosis using a digital multimeter and
accessories, see Fluke Corporations website reference
athttp://www.fluke.com/application_notes/automotive/beatbook.asp?AGID=1&SID=103Wiring
Fault Diagnostic Tips. [Tips from Import Car Magazine]DIAGNOSTIC
THOUGHTSWiring failures occur as open, shorted or short-to-ground
(grounded) circuits. An open circuit, obviously, is a broken or
disconnected wire. Shorted circuits occur when the insulation
between two wires fails. Grounded circuits occur when a bare wire
is allowed to touch the vehicles powertrain, sheet metal or frame.
As for narrowing diagnostic probabilities, lets remember that:1.
Before wasting hours of expensive diagnostic time, test all fuse
circuits with a DVOM or approved test light. Remember that fuses
can fail without showing signs of an obvious burn-through. Since a
loose or corroded fuse connector may also cause many intermittent
circuit failures, thoroughly inspect and clean the fuse circuits
before proceeding with your diagnosis.2. Most wiring failures occur
at either end of the wire as a bad connection. Although splice
failures inside the wiring harness are rare, some nameplates are
notorious for splice failures. Technical service bulletins (TSBs)
and Internet sources offer valuable insight to typical nameplate
problems.3. Corroded harness connections cause most intermittent
circuit failures. Simply unplugging the connector and applying an
electrically compatible corrosion inhibitor will repair most
connector failures.4. When diagnosing intermittent failures,
remember that suspect turn signal flashers, fuses, bulbs and relays
can be replaced more cheaply than they can be diagnosed. When
diagnosing an intermittent lighting failure, for example, I always
begin by cleaning the bulb sockets and installing new bulbs. How
much diagnostic time are you willing to spend testing a $0.98 light
bulb thats nearing the end of its practical service life?5. Engine,
computer and body ground connections should be checked first,
especially if the vehicle has recently visited the collision repair
shop.6. Keep in mind that most electrical systems, when left
untouched, perform very reliably. When they do fail, the failure
will be predictable, such as a bad current or ground connection,
blown fuse and the like. Most predictable failures can be solved
within a two-hour time block.7. On the other hand, the DIY mechanic
"short-testing" a cooling fan switch or fuel pump relay can create
a multiple failure with unpredictable consequences like burning a
wire within a wiring harness. Obvious tampering should always
create a red flag... Electrical "red flags" may include newly
installed sound systems, electrical accessories, trailer brakes,
auxiliary lighting and the like...8. Many circuits serve more than
one accessory or function. Years ago, for example, I found that a
burned brake light fuse was caused by a loose courtesy light in the
ashtray. Without a good magnetic short detector, the problem would
have been difficult to solve since a relationship between a brake
light and ashtray light isnt immediately logical or clear, to say
the least. In other unlikely cases, Ive found an instrument cluster
fuse that also supplies field current to the alternator. The moral
is, never rule out the effect of one circuit upon another...10. In
fact, avoid using test lights altogether. When testing fuses, for
example, I use an LED-type test light (available from a major tool
manufacturer) that indicates open or grounded fuse circuits and
voltage availability. This eliminates guesswork and protects
ground-sensitive electronic circuits like air bag sensors.11. Use a
professional DVOM with a min/max voltage feature and alarm to test
intermittent failures. The min/max feature will record the highest
voltage reached in the circuit and sound an alarm each time a
higher voltage is reached. For the technician working alone, this
feature is a real time saver, especially when performing a "wiggle"
test on an intermittent wiring problem. In the same sense, lab
scopes are particularly useful to find loose ground connections.
During a wiggle or vibration test, loose ground connections will
show up as a voltage spike in an otherwise zero-volt lab scope
waveform.12. Remember how hard it is to find the trim screw driven
through a wiring harness hidden underneath a headliner? A good
short detector will help you quickly locate concealed
short-to-ground circuits. For about 30 bucks, its a great time
saver for you and your customer alike.
Fuse Locations. See the follwoing diagrams for fuse locations in
740/940 and some 760/all 960 cars: 740/940 Fuse Locations 960 Fuse
Locations
Relay Locations. See Michael Ponte's excellent illustrations
below to identify relays in 740/940 cars. To access relays, remove
the snap-on cover over the cigarette lighter, then remove the two
screws securing the storage box. Remove the box and you will see
the relay tray behind the fuses.
In 960 cars, the relays are in the same location but mounted on
a vertical relay board.Relay Identification in UK 760 Model.
[Query] I need the relay identification on the relays which are
located on the side of the transmission tunnel under the plastic
panel in the passenger footwell compartment. These relays are
labeled A,B,C,D,E,etc. No disrespect ,but please do not refer to
the ones in the compartment behind the ashtray because I do not
have that model. [Response: Steve] In my 1990 760gle United Kingdom
model the relays are A: main lighting(part); B: motronic/jetronic
relay; C: central locking relay; D: foglamp relay; E: main lighting
relay(part); F: bulb failure warning relay (front); G: overdrive
relay; J: power boost relay; K: rear wiper delay relay;
L:windscreenwiper delay relay; M: seat belt warning relay. A, B, F,
J, L, and M are permanently attached to the board.
Hot Fuel Pump Relay. The relay should not get hot even if the
pump is drawing too much current...until the excess current starts
to kill the contacts. Either way, a hot relay is a bad relay. There
are three possible reasons for a hot relay:cold solder jointbad
crimp jointbad relay contactsAll mean that a point in the relay has
resistance and when current flows through that point there will be
a voltage drop which means work is being done and that work
manifests itself as heat (P = E * I). Over time the bad joint gets
worse due to the heat and maybe heat cool cycles, the resistance
goes up, the joint gets hotter, the voltage at the pump goes down
so it needs more current to do the same work so the joint gets
hotter, it gets worse, well you get the picture. At its worst this
kind of scenario can destroy a motor because the low voltage
condition causes a high current draw which over heats the motor.
The relay may or may not be fixable. I usually try to fix them and
are often successful. Note that Volvo released an improved relay,
which has silver terminals, to solve this problem. If the car's
existing relay has copper-colored terminals, replace it with the
newer relay.
Relay and Fuse Panel Removal. It is possible to pull the whole
relay panel out the front of its opening. Remove the plastic box
(which also contains the accessory socket) above it to facilitate
this. There is an obvious clip that you bend slightly to release
the tray. Lift upward slightly, then the tray slides rearward and
out. The opening in the console is just the right size--the tray
does not need to be turned or twisted.The wire umbilical attached
to it is long enough to allow the panel to be pulled out quite far.
This is also how you can hook up accessories to the fuse and relay
connections under the panel. Use a good light so you can see
well.
Relay/Fuse Panel Base Replacement. My headlight relay got into a
bad habit of getting real hot. I had the same problem and after
replacing the relay, I replaced the plastic base. It's quite easy,
get yourself a 1307160 ($2.89 CAD) and pull your relay/fuse tray
out of there. After removing the relay, flip the tray and remove
each wire (tape the lug & mark the position). You can usually
coerce the crimp-on connectors out by bending the little tab
internal to each connector (with a small screwdriver). Once the
relay base is clear of wires, unclip and push it out. Install your
new base and re-install each wire in the proper position. I find
that, using a knife, you can "restore" the little tab on each crimp
connector so that it "clicks-in" when you re-install the connector
in the base. It is vital to have firm connectors or else they slide
out when you push-in your relay! One additional note... The base
melts because there is resistance & arcing between the crimp-on
connector and the relay lug. There is quite a bit of current going
through there and you want to make sure that you have tight
connections. You can do that by "squeezing the gulls" of each
crimp-on connector. Contacts #30, 87 & 87b are the culprits
(not sure if they are all used though). My relay/fuse panel is all
plastic. Double-check the part number of the relay base by removing
a relay and reading the part number in the center of a "good" relay
base.
Relay Repair vs. Replacement. Here's a generic statement about
your relay (which I know nothing about) -- this statement displays
my bias about the (poor) quality of Bosch wave soldering. If you
can pop the cover off the relay, try resoldering all the
connections on the circuit board before you replace it. (After all,
you have nothing to lose but a few minutes.) The heavy connections
that go to large components like the actual relay may need a large
soldering iron or gun, whereas the connections at smaller
components, such as transistors, should be reflowed using a smaller
iron, like a 25-Watt iron. If you're not comfortable soldering,
find a friend who is.[Don Foster:] Over time (like 10 years), the
solder used in production manufacturing tends to become
crystallized and cracks. The type of solder used in high-volume
production is different than that used in an electronics repair
shop. The problem with the relays is tiny, almost invisible
microscopic cracks in the solder. These cracks usually encircle one
(or several) heavy connections, such as from the relay or a main
lug connector. Under a bright light, and using a magnifying glass,
inspect the soldered connections. Simply resoldering these circuit
board very often restores them to perfect performance, and it's a
whole lot better (and cheaper) than a $50-$100 replacement part. I
have recovered literally dozens of Bosch relays (OD, fuel pump,
wipers) to perfect performance this way at $0. In fact, I
resoldered ALL the relays in my family's 6 Volvos before a failure
stranded us.
Power Window Switches. [Switches don't work] I can suggest one
course of action that helped to alleviate the situation, take apart
the individual window switches and clean them out. The switch pivot
has a bit of oil or grease on it and some of it gets on the ball
bearing contacts, causing dirt to get stuck and faulty contact
points. The same may be true with your child safety locks for the
rear windows. It worked for mine, but I think I need to clean the
switch once more as it only operates correctly 80-90% of the time
going down, and all the time going up. I was even thinking of
replacing the switch itself if that didn't work. No experience on
the power relays, though.[Symptom: Window does not raise or lower.]
[Diagnosis:] Switch. These are fun to fix. Pull the switch
assemblies out of the door handle (two metal springs at front and
back hold them in: use a screwdriver to lever them out. Then pop
the switch out (I usually wind up doing them all as long as I'm
there) and pry the side off the little nipples so the cover comes
off each switch. Be careful since there is a spring in the rocker,
you don't want to lose it. Take out the little metal "lever" and
use some very fine sandpaper to neaten up the contacts on the lever
and the contact points inside the switch. [Tip from John Yuristy] .
I wouldn`t use sandpaper or steel wool on contacts, some are just
plated and you will remove the good stuff.[Response:Steve Ringlee]
For a detailed analysis of the window switches, take a look at
Michael Ponte's analysis athttp://www.mikeponte.com/volvo/pwin.htm.
Another solution is disassembling the switches (be careful in
removing them from the black plastic holders), de-oxidizing and
cleaning them using an electronic de-oxidizer such as DeOxIt from
Caig Labs, then using a fine Scotchguard nylon scrubber to burnish
the contacts, and finally reassembling them using Caig ProGold
protective coating (very small quantities precisely applied) on the
contacts to prevent further dirt and oxidization from ruining the
contacts. Caveat: I have tried the "rebuild" approach on these
switches and found that it did not last that long; I ended up
buying a new driver's door switch from RPR for around $30 just to
save more work.
Power Door Lock Failure. [Query:] There has been a failure of
the door locks on my 740 wagon. The tailgate unlocks with the
drivers door but no other function works. Do I need a new lock
actuator or is there something else to check? [Response:] There is
a switch in the driver's door that sends a signal to a relay
mounted on the central relay panel. The relay then sends power to
all the lock motors (all doors except driver's door). If some of
the locks are operating and others are not, then you have either a
wiring problem or a ground connection problem. Either way, the
place to start is to remove the door panels on those doors that are
not working. Unplug the lock motors and check to make sure they
operate freely. If so, proceed to check the wiring with a
multimeter - look for bad ground connections, no power on
lock/unlock leads when door switch operated, etc. I expect that the
three passenger doors are on one harness and that the tailgate has
a separate harness lead that comes from the relay. So look for
those points which are common to the three passenger doors.
Baked Engine Wiring. [Early-80s to 1987 240 and 7xx cars:]
Harness failure often causes multiple symptoms such as rough
idling, stalling, hesitation, overall erratic performance and
random misfiring. The symptoms may mimic ignition or fuel injection
trouble you've encountered on other cars. I cannot address 240
vehicles newer than 87, the friends I help do not own anything
newer. In all the 240's I've seen there are several wires that are
"flaky": oil pressure; alternator wires and alternator dash signal;
knock sensor; water temp gauge; starter from ignition; starter to
coil; primary ignition wiring near the ignition coil; and on 7xx
cars, harness connectors in the right rear corner of the engine
compartment below the ignition coil. ALL the wires from the ECU do
not show any signs of deterioration in any of the harnesses we have
opened up. Since the flaky set are wrapped into the main harness to
replace them means replace everything. At big $$$ for Volvo &
the service center. After getting nailed for the 85's harness, I
took preventive measures on my 83 and others until we find a long
down time to correct the problem. We replaced the alternator and
the oil pressure sending wires rerouting them around the right side
of the engine bay. We believe that if the alternator wire shorts to
some other wire that is where the big problems could occur. The
alternator wire has the potential to supply a constant 12+ volts to
any of the others ( which are to ground) and act as a heater wire
inside the harness, getting hot enough to melt all the others. In
my 85 it was from the starter wire to the alternator wire up by the
dash connector and was caught before much damage was done. Had it
replaced by the dealer thinking insurance only to find that
insurance refuses to cover this problems in Volvo's. Cutting open
that harness revealed NO damage or deterioration to any other wires
in the harness except the above wires. Our solution: We reroute
with new wires to all of the above sensors. Best done with some
other time consuming task. To make it really easy we release the
intake manifold. Takes two of us about 3 hours to reroute all wires
and replace the manifold. Tried it first without releasing the
manifold and it took 8 hours. I believe Volvo could have created a
replacement harness consisting of just these wires but did not do
so because of $$. Another is that if you catch the problem soon
enough no other wires will fry because of a short between two of
the bad wires. Wait too long and other wires will be damaged from
the heat of the short. Since this is probably about the time Volvo
found out about the problem, it looked to them like all the wires
in the harness are bad.[Quick preventative:] Watch the wires coming
from the connector directly under the windshield below the driver
and the oil pressure and alternator wires on the right front of the
motor. These are the first ones to go. If it starts reroute the
alternator wire first as this can cause the most damage if left in
the harness. Then replace the starter, then the coil wire as these
have the next greatest potential for damage. If you can, get the
wires replaced before they cause other damage, do so as the cost
will come out of your pocket.[1983-1987 7xx cars:] If you are
referring to the problem of wiring harness rot that affects the
83-87 models, it usually affects the harness on the engine. On the
LH cars, this usually includes a fuel injection harness and a
separate ignition system harness. However, I have seen some
deterioration of other underhood harnesses including the wiring
that goes to various lights (turn signals, corner markers,
headlights, etc.[Advice on replacement:] The engine wiring harness
went bad on my 1983 240 Turbo (170,000). I noticed it first when my
starter would try to engage occasionally when I hit a bump or
turned a hard right. The wires up by the firewall on the left side
of the car were bare at the connector. I tried to separate and tape
them, but that did not work. I found out why when I replaced the
harness. The harness runs along the left side of the block, and
EACH of the wires was completely bare the majority of the length of
the block!! As you know, depending on which ones touched which,
anything could happen. REPLACE the whole harness!!!!!! Trying to
patch it will only lead you into hours and hours of nightmares both
as you attempt to cob it together, and as soon as moisture gets in
your cheesy butt connectors and your gauges, idle, starter, etc go
wacky!!!Remember: My Volvo is Turbo. Although a similar process, I
can not speak directly on the naturally aspirated version. The job
took me (a former diesel mechanic but working with limited tools on
this job) 5 hours. I unbolted the intake and pulled it away from
the head. Of course to do this you will need an intake gasket. I
recommend you do this also, as to work around and under the intake
would be treacherous. With the intake pulled away, you can see
straight down in there. You may want to replace your flame trap
when you are in there as you have a straight shot at it. Any
troublesome vacuum lines could easily be swapped out also.The new
Volvo harness is color coded exactly as the original. (big
advantage). It is also exactly correct in length. (huge advantage).
Just remove the old one, being careful at each connection - temp
sensors, alt, oil press, etc. are all very dry. You may have to cut
the old harness out in pieces as it is not pliable at all. Install
the new one by starting at firewall and working your way along the
block and around to the oil press and alternator. It is pretty self
explanatory really. Leave about 5 hours to do it. This sounds like
a lot, but multiply it times the hourly rate of your local shop, or
the cost of burning up a starter (and a tow) like I did, and you
will have a little more incentive to clear up some time on Saturday
morning. No special tools. (May want torque wrench for intake if
you are REALLY particular). I shopped all over and I purchased it
from NILS SEFELDT Volvo in Houston Texas (281) 721-1600 (800)
468-0041 fro $230.22 and the gasket for $11.70. [Additional tips
from Dick:] My suggestion: do not remove the intake manifold on the
700 series. Remove AMM and hose to intake, idle speed motor and
hoses, also flame trap and oil trap. Label stuff carefully. Begin
your rewire from under the car, ie the oil pressure sender light,
removing the old stuff as you go. Your new harness has yellow bands
indicating where the clamps should be. Remove the harness from the
AMM and replace with new. You will have to remove the knock sensor
wiring and mark it . I think you get the picture. With the oil trap
removed, you can clean it and put a new O ring on it (leak source)
and new flame trap. Other suggestion is to remove the 3 plug ins on
the passenger side and pull then through and under the manifold
along with the injector harness stuff.Believe marking and labeling
is extremely important. I blew the brains out of a 240 by mixing up
two similar 3-prong connectors. Label the old harness too because
you can always compare wire colors in the connectors that are
alike.[More from a VCOA Wiring Clinic, courtesy of the
BrickBoard:]Scope: The problem afflicts 200 and 700 series Volvos
manufactured during the period 1983-1987 [Note: several
commentators would also include the 1981 & '82 models of 240
series.]. The problem has also appeared in other vehicles
manufactured during the same period with Bosch electrical systems.
Owners of all vehicles manufactured with Bosch electrical systems
during the period should inspect the engine wiring harness. Anyone
considering purchase of such a vehicle should inspect the engine
wiring harness if the harness is the original.Presentation of
problem: Disintegrating insulation on wires exposed to high
temperatures for long periods (10 years or more).Symptoms: All
vehicles within scope are vulnerable to the problem. Close
inspection of the engine wiring harness will reveal the problem
before it causes short circuits. If a vehicle within scope exhibits
drivability problems that are intermittent and cannot be otherwise
diagnosed, short circuits in wiring harness caused by deteriorating
insulation may be the cause.Inspection: Use a strong light source
and check wiring, paying particular attention to wiring passing
close to high heat sources. High heat sources include intake
manifold, exhaust manifold, turbocharger, block, firewall.Common
locations presenting problem: B23: firewall near main connector,
alternator, intake manifold. B230: ground wires on intake manifold,
oil pressure sender, water temperature sensor on block. B28/280: no
engines were available for inspection.Solutions:Temporary
solutions: liquid electrical tape, applied in several coats over
several hours, good between -20 and 255 degrees F; shrink-fit
insulation, applied with heat gun or torch, good past 400 degrees
F, but hard to fit correctly over end connectors; spliced wiring,
recommended by some Swedishbricks and SAAB list members as the most
nearly permanent fix that does not require a new harness. Standard
electrical tape is at best a one-month reprieve. Any solution short
of splicing lasts no more than a few months.Permanent solution: new
wiring harness, cost ranges between $250 and $350 (US). VCOA has
been successful in persuading Volvo to lower the price of its
wiring harnesses for vehicles within scope, and current price range
quoted above reflects those reductions. Prices have been cut from
33%-50% from previous levels (Example: old price of engine harness
for B230FT engine was approximately $500, now reduced to $270).
Dealers who offer club discounts will add their standard discount
to the current prices. It is absolutely critical that you order the
correct harness. Very difficult to do when there are 3-4 variants
out there, yet little way to tell the harnesses/engine applications
apart.Workability: Owners who prefer to have a mechanic install the
new wiring harness can expect to pay 4-6 hours of shop time for the
job. Owners who prefer to do the job themselves should set aside
one or two days. For the B230 engine, it is recommended that the
owner have all vacuum hoses replaced at the same time, as well as
fuel injector seals. In addition, performing the job on the B230
engine involves removal of the intake manifold and air intake
valve, and so requires replacement of the intake manifold gasket
and the air intake valve gasket. Owners who have replaced wiring
harnesses of B23 and B280 engines may wish to offer advice on other
maintenance that should be performed at the same time, as well as
other parts (besides the wiring harness) that may be required.
Dielectric grease for multi-pin connectors, as well as an oxidation
inhibitor for single connection points to aluminum ground, are
recommended. Do not interchange the two, as dielectric grease is an
insulator, while oxidation inhibitor is a conductor.Picture
References. Check
outhttp://www.homestead.com/volvo2/harness.htmlfor visual images
and instructions for wiring harness replacement and other
maintenance items.
Maintaining Chassis Grounds. [Query:] What do I have to do to
keep the grounds in my chassis circuits in good condition?
[Response 1: Steve Ringlee] This is tough to do without the
pictures in the Volvo OEM wiring diagram book (the best $25 I've
ever spent, by the way) but here are the grounds for my 1990
745:Battery chassis near the battery: often corrodedEngine main
ground under the p/s pump (typically OK because of oil
coating)Right auxiliary chassis ground (behind right headlamp):
frequently corrodedLeft auxiliary chassis ground (behind left
headlamp): also usually corrodedInside left A-pillar: underneath
the trim panel by the bottom front left door hinge;Inside right
A-pillar: just beneath the engine computer by the right front door
pillar; this is important since so many functions ground here and
humidity/salt can affect it from the carpets.Left and right
taillight groundsOn the right console between the seats: not a
problemCourtesy lamp ground above the left B-pillar; not a
problemFuel pump and sensor ground next to sending unit on fuel
tankSRS ground beneath the driver's seat next to the crash sensor.
It goes without saying that if you are going to touch this, you
need to disconnect the battery negative and wait some time for any
charge to dissipate from the crash sensor.[Response 2: Don Willson]
One ground connection you missed Steve. Though it has nothing to do
with air bags it will cause major running problems. That is the
injector ground wires. Just cleaning them and tightening the bolt
is not enough. The wire must be soldered to the crimp lug. The
internal resistance of this crimp increases until injectors start
to missfire, the O2 sensor sees too much oxygen and feeds the
engine much too much fuel. Mileage drops to 10 mpg with smoke and
no power.These grounds, if corroded, can play havoc with your car's
electrical system. A lot of the problems brought up in both
Brickboard and Swedishbricks forums relate to faulty ground
connections. It pays, especially for those in wet or salty
climates, to clean and de-oxidize the ground connections (DeOxIt
from Caig Tools is great, at electronic stores) then coat them with
OxGard conductive paste (get it at Home Depot) which is designed to
protect electrical connections where conductivity is important and
shorts across circuit connectors are not a problem.For a good
overall discussion of Volvo electrical system grounds, see the
article Volvo Electrical System Service: In Search of Good Grounds,
Bob Kraft, ImportCar magazine, December 1997
athttp://www.underhoodservice.com/(see their searchable archive for
ImportCar Magazine.)
Dielectric vs. Conductive Grease to Protect Connectors and
Grounds. [Query:] You have repeatedly recommended the application
of dielectric grease to underhood wire connections. Isn't the
insulating property of such grease counter to the goal of IMPROVING
the integrity of electrical connections? I would think that a
conductive paste (such as Eastwood's Kopr-Shield) would be better.
The only potential downside I can think of is that sloppy
application could cause short circuits, but care and common sense
should preclude this. [Response:] This is a good question and one
that I have received several times. Yes, it is true that the
dielectric grease is non-conductive. However, in the context of
connections that carry voltages larger than 1 volt, the grease will
not result in a bad connection. The male and female connectors will
wipe enough of the grease off at the mating surface so that the
electricity will flow just fine. The important part is that there
is no chance of the grease creating a conductive path between
adjacent terminals in a multi-terminal connector. The main purpose
of the grease is to seal the terminals against oxidation which
creates a high resistance barrier and moisture and dirt which can
result in shorts and ground paths.It is important to note that on
all Volvos, the Oxygen sensor signal lead carries a very low
voltage (0.2v - 0.8v) and the dielectric grease must NOT be used on
this lead as it will interfere with the signal voltage.For the
GROUND connections - especially those in the engine compartment
where the ground leads are fastened to aluminum surfaces like the
intake manifold, I recommend using one of the conductive greases
like OxGuard. These are found at electrical supply houses and are
typically used by electricians to treat the end of aluminum
electrical cables to prevent the very high resistance aluminum
oxide from forming at connections - this was a common cause of
house fires. The same high resistance oxide plays havoc with engine
management system signal voltages. You can eliminate the problem by
cleaning the aluminum surfaces and treating with the conductive
grease. Also note that many of the spade type crimp on terminals
that are available are made of aluminum. It is very difficult to
find copper ones. [Note: see also the note on greasing connectors
under Engine Tune, Performance.] DON'T use OxGuard on engine or
chassis electrical connectors or sensors.
Circuit Board and Contact Repair. [Tips from Joe Ward] My rear
taillight has been blowing the bulb rather frequently. Upon a
closer inspection I noticed it had worn the copper trace where the
lamp holder contacts the copper trace. I removed lamp holder,
lightly sanded copper trace areas with some 600 grit, cleaned with
alcohol, applied a thin film of conductive epoxy on all three
copper traces and let dry overnight. Next morning it was hard as
rock and conductive! This product was found at a local electronics
supplier (it was near the check-out counter and it occurred to me
this would be a good product to try before replacing). Product is
used for field repairs for circuit boards that have cracked or
broken traces and soldering not available. Cost ~8.00 for tube but
it didn't take much. [Tip from JohnB] I had a similar problem with
the plastic/copper circuit board below the steering wheel on my
Saab. So I sanded the copper circuit and placed about 5-6 strands
of copper from some 12-gauge multi-strand twisted together and
flattened onto the copper on the plastic and using a 350w Weller
soldering gun and electronic rosin core solder, just flashed the
copper/wires together
Power Windows Operate in OFF. 1986 740: I just noticed that my
power windows work without the key in the ignition. [Response:] a
stuck relay would do that. Either that or there's a hot short at
the relay socket or in the wiring between the relay and the
ignition switch. Should be leftmost relay in the front row. It also
powers the electric radiator fan, so given a hot engine on a hot
day it too could run when the key is out. A hot short between the
relay and the fan thermostat would also enable the power windows.
Try tapping on the relay to see if that doesn't at least make a
temporary difference. If that helps then you may be able to salvage
the relay by opening it and using contact cleaner. If not, then
pull the relay anyway and inspect socket for evidence of shorting.
After that it's either try a new relay or start tracing with a
multimeter.
Relays Run Hot. 87 740 B230F 120,000 miles. Problems with the
740 fuel pump and headlight relays are well documented. Volvo has a
tech. bulletin that recommends replacement of the relays and the
sockets, which have both been done to my car before I purchased it.
Driving today, I put my finger on the fuel pump relay and it was
darn warm. I could just hold my finger on it - any hotter and I
wouldn't be able to. Is this normal/acceptable? If no, what's the
fix (another relay??). [Response:] Relays on Volvos run hot. That's
why I drill holes in the covers. You must first remove the circuit
board to drill the cover. On overdrive relays, I have never had to
replace a relay with holes in it, it seems to help a lot. I have
also run cooling to the relay/fuse board from the crotch cooler
port, so when the A/C is on, it blows cool air on the board via
hose. It may help and can't hurt. [Another:] I've seen several
instances on 740s of excessive contact resistance at the fuel pump
relay connector. This causes overheating and melting of the spade
connectors and plastic socket. It probably wouldn't hurt to examine
the male spade connectors and socket for signs of high resistance
and overheating (discoloration of metal, melted or burned plastic).
[Another:] Your description of the innards of the fuel pump relay
sounds right.... the wires from the solenoid coils to the PCB are
small and fragile -- but I've never experienced them breaking (at
least, breaking from vibration). Because they're fragile, fingers
off! Soldering the PCB is done on the other side from the
components. You'll notice the component leads (including the fine
wires) stick through and are soldered to so-called "traces". These
traces are copper, but are usually completely covered by solder so
have a silvery color. You'll also see where larger tangs stick
through and are soldered -- these are the heavy-current leads from
the relay contacts as well as the relay connectors.I usually solder
the heavy connections using a soldering gun (but carefully, because
these deliver a lot of heat quickly, and can damage a PCB). The
smaller solder connections are best done with a small 25-Watt iron.
Of course, you must use electronic solder, not plumbing solder
(which contains an acid-based flux).
Slow Battery Discharge. See the "Starting" section for more
information.
Multiple Electrical Failure: Ignition Switch Bad. [Query:] After
stopping our '90 745T the ABS light came on, the blinkers did not
work, along with the power windows. Wife managed to get home and
call me at work. My first reaction was, of course, a fuse. But when
I got home and started up the car, everything was fine, along with
the fuses. Any ideas on a solution to my quandary? [Response: Abe
Crombie] The electrical switch behind ignition lock is almost
certainly the culprit. You can test for this by starting car and
then turn key a few degrees either way and see if you can't
duplicate what your wife observed. The switch has the spring in it
that returns the key to run position after you go to the starter
position and it can weaken or wear. The switch is easy to change
and is readily available through a good parts supplier.
Cruise Control Surges: Worn Servo. [Query:] What is the fix for
surging with the cruise control ON. It tends to fluctuate 2-4 mph
in level driving conditions. Real annoying. [Response: Abe Crombie]
Look closely at the servo on the throttle housing that tugs the
cable wrapped around the throttle spool. This can get a hole worn
in it and the vacuum level that keeps throttle positioned evenly is
impossible to maintain.Remote Car Starter Installation Guide
NOTE:The information on this sheet is provided to you on an "as
is" basis with no representation or warranty of accuracy
whatsoever. It is the sole responsibility of the installer to check
and verify any circuit before connecting to it. Only a computer
safe logic probe or digital multimeter should be used. Dr.Detail
and/or any other associated or unassociated individual or
corporation who furnishes this document assumes absolutely no
liability or responsibility whatsoever pertaining to the accuracy
or currency of the information supplied. The installation in each
and every case is the sole responsibility of the installer
performing the work and/or any other associated or unassociated
individual or corporation assumes no liability or responsibility
whatsoever resulting from any type of installation, whether
performed properly, improperly or in any other way. The information
supplied is a guide only.
REMOTE STARTER INSTALLATIONThe following information is provided
as a reference guide for remote starter installation. We will
discuss the most common characteristics of the wires you must
locate and connect to in the vehicle for this type of installation.
As always, we recommend that you use a digital voltmeter to perform
all wire tests. Test lights can seriously damage vehicles on board
computers and cost you big $$$. We also recommend that all wiring
connections be soldered to assure a solid lasting connection. Avoid
routing any wires near any sharp objects under the dashboard, pay
special attention to wires routed through the firewall. Split
looming is a good idea for wires running through the engine
compartment, if you don't have any available to you, taping the
full length of the wire will also add some protection.
Before getting startedWhen a customer's vehicle enters your
installation bay you should take a few moments to give it the once
over. Check all the switches and systems in the vehicle as well as
the exterior lights to make sure that they are working properly and
report any defect to the customer before beginning your
installation. In the case of a remote starter installation you
should also listen to the engine to make sure that it is running
properly.
Ignition switch wiringThe major connections for your remote
starter are done at the key switch, IGNITION, ACCESSORY, STARTER
and in most cases POWER. These wires are usually easy to find,
coming off the vehicle's ignition switch. These wires are typically
large in gauge however; they can be small gauges as some cars use
these wires to control remote relays for all the vehicles
operations instead of the wires themselves.
Power wireThe power wire for your car starter should be
connected either directly at the battery or to the wire that
supplies power to the vehicle's ignition switch. Some vehicle's
have more than one wire supplying the key switch but may be fused
differently. A good example of this is the dodge intrepid, there
are 2 constant power wires at the ignition switch, both are the
same gauge, RED & PINK/BLACK. The RED wire is fused at 20 amps
and the PINK/BLACK is fused at 40 amps, connecting a remote
starters power lead to the RED wire would eventually result in a
blown fuse as most remote car starters draw much more than 20 amps.
If your remote car starter has 2 power wires you can connect 1
power wire to each of the vehicles power wires. Determine which one
is used to supply the accessory output and connect that wire to the
power wire that can handle the higher load.
Ignition wireThis wire supplies power to the vehicle's ignition
system and fuel pump, it shows between 10 and 14 volts with the key
in the RUN and CRANK positions of the key switch. Some vehicles
have more than one ignition wire; all ignition wires should be
connected when installing a remote starter. Use relays for
connecting additional ignition wires.
Second Ignition wireSome vehicles have more than one ignition
wire; all ignition wires should be connected when installing a
remote starter. Use relays for connecting additional ignition
wires. This Second ignition wires must be connected to an
additional relay andcan not be tied in with the original ignition
wire. Just connect the new relay using the first ignition relay
negative trigger wire and connect the B+ to a known good 12V
source.
Accessory wireThis wire supplies power to the vehicle's blower
and heater/Ac controls. It shows between 11.5v and 14v with the key
in the ACCESSORY and RUN positions of the key switch. Some vehicles
have multiple accessory wires to control all the heater and a/c
functions. If it is necessary to connect a second accessory wire,
use a relay!
Starter wireThis wire supplies power to the starter solenoid to
crank the engine. It shows between 11.5v and 14v with the key in
the START position of the key switch. Many of today's vehicles have
a second starter wire which control a sensor that help starting in
cold weather, this wire should always be connected. If it is
necessary to connect more than 1 starter wire, use a relay!
Parking light wireThe wire that supplies voltage to the
vehicle's parking lights can usually be found at the vehicle's
light switch or in the harness of wires going to the rear of the
vehicle. This wire shows voltage when the parking lights are turned
on. Some vehicles have independent left and right parking light
wires. Diodes will be needed to isolate the 2 wires from each
other. Some Volkswagen cars need to have the parking light wire
isolated from the light switch or the wipers and heater will come
on when voltage is applied to the park light wire.
Brake wireThis wire can be found at the switch harness above the
brake pedal, it shows between 11.5v and 14v when the brake pedal is
depressed. This wire can also be found in the harness going to the
rear of the vehicle or at the brake light itself.
Ground wireProper connection of your ground wire is essential
for your car starter to function properly as it relies as much on
this wire as it does on the Tachometer wire to start the vehicle
properly and read tachometer pulses. This wire should always be
connected to a clean unpainted metal surface in the kick panel or
firewall. Grounding directly at the battery terminal is not
recommended.
Tachometer wireYour remote starter requires a tachometer
reference signal to monitor when the vehicle has started so it can
disengage the starter. The vehicle's tachometer reference wire can
usually be found on the engine distributor or coil pack or at the
ECM (power control module) or PCM (power control module).
References to these modules are often found in Wire Magic. First
look for the vehicle's ignition coil or coil pack by following the
spark plug wires (if possible) to where they junction together at a
distributor. You can usually located a small wire harness at this
location were a tachometer reference can be found. If the
distributor appears to be supplied via a spark plug wire from
another module this will be the coil and will also have a
tachometer reference wire. A fuel injector is also a source of
tachometer pulses, however this provides a signal for only 1
cylinder so make sure the car starter you are installing can be
programmed for this setting. Tachometer reference can almost always
be found at the vehicle's computer but this is not always easy to
access, see the vehicle's data sheet for the recommended tachometer
wire and location.
Factory securityMost factory installed security systems can be
disarmed by turning the key in the driver's door to the unlock
position. In these cases there will be a wire coming from the door
that can be pulsed to shut the security down and allow the vehicle
to start without tripping the factory alarm system, this wire can
usually be located in the kick panel. If the security system does
not disarm with the key, check the vehicle's owner's manual or
e-mail us on the vehicle you are working on.
Passive anti-theft systemsSome vehicle's are equipped anti-theft
systems that are based on security against tampering with the
ignition switch and hot wiring of the vehicle such as GM's
PasskeyV.A.T.S, Passkey 3, Passlock I, Passlock II or Ford P.A.T.S
similar systems found on other makes and models. See the "Factory
Anti-theft Bypass Reference Guide" list for details on all these
transponder based systems.
Always make all your connections before installing you main
power fuse and be sure to program and test all functions properly
before closing up you installation.
In closing Use tie wraps or screws to properly secure the
starter module and keep the wiring away from any moving parts such
as parking brakes or steering column shafts. Mount any switches in
a good accessible location where they won't get kicked or hit
accidentally.
Take the time to properly explain all functions and features to
the customer before they leave the premises. Most comebacks are the
result of misunderstandings about how a product works or performs.
Doing this will save time and money.How to Install Spotlights on
Your VehicleHave you ever tried to install spotlights on your truck
or SUV and they just don't work, or they just won't work right.
When you buy some new spotlights most of them come with all the
wiring and tools and the instructions you need to install them but
they have about four different languages on them and they don't
make any sense at all. Now this is about the time you decide to
forget the instructions and try to make it work your own way right?
Well now with these instructions you can easily install your
spotlights without all the trial and error.Steps
1Separate all parts, wires, and get the appropriate tool.Ad
2Disconnect the battery.Remember to disconnect the negative
terminal first.
3Find the wire that has the fuse build into it, strip your wire
on the end closest to the fuse and clamp the terminal connector to
your wire.
4Connect the same wire to either the battery (recommended) or a
positive 12 volt lead in the fuse box (NOT Recommended ... Reason:
If connecting to a 12v lead in the fuse-box make sure that it is
capable of powering the lights ie. If You have 2 150w spotlights
(12.5 Amps each) And the 12v lead in your fuse-box has a 20amp fuse
in-line, you risk melting the plastic and it could result in fire
and/or damage to other electrical components, Replacing the fuse
with a higher capacity one DOES NOT fix the problem)
5Run the wire into the inside of your vehicle (keeping it away
from anything it could be damaged by) run it to the desired place
for your switch, connect it to the positive prong on the back of
your switch.
6Fasten the switch in the place you want it to be.
7Know that if you are using a switch with any sort of light, you
need to the ground prong on the back of your switch to the frame or
another spot without paint that is connected to the frame.
8You should have another wire left(which is not black) this wire
needs to be connected to the last prong on the back of your switch
and ran out of the vehicle to your light, connect it to the white
yellow or blue wire from your light.
9Bolt your light tightly to the desired place outside of your
vehicle.
10Connect the black wire from your light to the ground of your
vehicle.
11Connect your positive terminal back to your battery.
How To Make Your Car Sound Like a Freight Train71,468
Benjamin PrestonFiled to:PARKING LOT MECHANIC 11/23/12
5:00pm
The massive land yachts of the that rolled off of Detroit
assembly lines until about 1980 are mostly gone. Mostly, that's a
good thing. They handled like crap, took up a lot of space in
parking lots, and guzzled gas.But they had a certain, uniquely
American charm. They were roomy, commanded attention, and oh the
mighty songs played by their horns! Newer cars, while cheaper to
run and easier to park, lack the harmonic, train-like boom produced
by an old Cadillac's quartet of horns.Your car may have a wimpy
little horn, but that doesn't mean you have to settle for it.
Here's how to make your horn sound withthe power of Brnnhilde's
Immolation.
I had a weak horn problem in my beat up mid-'80s Subaru
actually, the horn didn't work at all so I decided it was time to
give my anemic econobox the powerful voice of a malaise-eradiesel
locomotiveCadillac. Now, when I hit the tiny red button installed
on the dash, heads snap toward the huge sound coming out of my
relatively small Japanese car. Like many other Americans, I have
have a penchant for pointless noisemaking, so only a horn fit for a
pimp passes muster.If loud, obnoxious awesomeness is what your life
is lacking, here's what to do to give your puny-horned car the
voice of a true behemoth:Finding horns:Time for a trip to the
junkyard. Horns from any big car will do, but if you're the type
who'll settle for nothing less than the best, go for the four-note
train horn from an old Cadillac or Buick. GM's two-note horns were
loud, and the four-note setupridiculouslyloud. Cadillac used them
on most of their cars until about 1980, then on the DeVille until
about '85 (when the DeVille became a mid-sized specter of its
former self), and they were also in Fleetwoods and Buick
Roadmasters until the early '90s. Make sure you have all four notes
A, C, D and F. The note is printed near the bell of each
horn.Electric parts:To make your faux train horn work, you'll need
to put in a button somewhere. Youcouldwire it to your car's stock
horn button, but I just wired in a different switch for easier
installation, and because I wanted to have the option of using the
car's normal horn if I ever decide to fix it. You can get all of
this stuff from Radio Shack. You'll need a
single-pole-single-throw, normally open momentary switch, a 30-amp
automotive relay, a 15-amp inline fuse, and some 16-gauge wire
(enough to reach the mounted horns, the car's battery, the relay,
and the switch on the dash).
Mounting the horns:Luckily, GM horns only have one wire coming
out of them. As long as you bolt them to a patch of bare metal, the
ground is all taken care of. On my car, there's a lot of space in
the engine bay, so mounting all four horns near the front was easy.
In some cars, you may have to drill holes somewhere and bolt the
horns up under the bumper or next to the radiator. Just make sure
you don't drill into the radiator or a bunch of wires or something.
That'll ruin your day.Wiring:Once the horns are mounted (assuming
they're mounted in roughly the same place), you can run their wires
together into one, then run a jumper from that junction through the
firewall (if you're planning to mount the relay inside the car like
I did).Take a look at the wiring diagramshown here to see how to
connect the horn's hot wire to the switch, the relay, and the
battery. You can use an awl or pick to pry open a space in one of
the firewall wiring harness grommets to feed your horn wire
through. For a hot lead, pick a power source that's hot when the
ignition is on or off, so that you can honk at people when the car
is keyed off. I put the relay behind the dash, but you can put it
anywhere that's dry and relatively cool.Button placement:This is
more important than you might think. You should definitely go for
as large a button as possible (so you're not fumbling around for
the button when you need to fend off potential collision
recipients), and try to put the button someplace where you can
reach it easily, with one smooth motion of your arm/finger. I put
mine right below my stereo, near where my hand goes anyway to
change the volume. The rest is training your arm to jab at
something other that the center of the steering wheel when you're
threatened/pissed/trying to get someone's attention.
Once you have it all together, test it out. Feels good doesn't
it? You might not be driving a huge Cadillac, but that's a horn
that would make Super Fly beam with pride. And the best thing? You
can get everything you need for less than $30 if you shop around.
Nothing you could get in a kit from J.C. Whitney would be that cool
(except maybe for theLa Cucarachaair horn set), and parts supplier
stuff costs a lot more.If you end up trying this out, please post a
video of your new horn and the reactions of innocent bystanders in
Kinja. Because that would be awesome.CHOOSING AN ELECTRIC FAN
CONTROLBy Jim Clark (The Hot Rod MD)
For many years the most effective means of cooling the engine at
slow speeds and when idling was with a multi-blade fan attached to
the front of the water pump pulley. It drew air through the
radiator when the forward motion of the vehicle was too slow to
create enough airflow through the radiator. The addition of a
shroud helped to funnel the airflow through the full face of the
core thereby increasing the cooling effect. However, it is not
necessary for the fan to operate at times when the vehicle is
running at highway speeds. If it did, the engine would most likely
never reach proper operating temperature and the parasitic loss of
power could significantly lower operating efficiency.
To remove this power drain a fan clutch was added to disengage
the fan so that it freewheeled at highway speeds when the airflow
was sufficient. The installation of big engines in small engine
bays created a problem though; room for the traditional fan/shroud
combo was limited. The most popular solution for this was to
install an electric fan and thin-line shroud in place of the
mechanical unit.
Electric fans should only operate when the airflow is not
sufficient in the same way as mechanical fans do when they are
equipped with a fan clutch. Electric fans dont use a mechanical
means of disengagement though, they are just turned on or off with
either a temperature sensing switch installed in the coolant flow
or by a toggle switch controlled by the vehicle operator.
Components to accomplish this can be bought at the local parts
store but the job is made easier when one of the many fan control
kits is utilized. We chose to use the fan control kit from Spal to
control our Spal 16-inch fan on our Cool Craft custom shroud
installation. It is offered in two different models; designed to
engage at either 185F. or 195F. Deciding which one to use requires
the answers to a number of questions about your cooling system.
First you must determine which type of cooling system that you
have.
Closed-type cooling system. The closed-type system doesnt vent
excess coolant to the outside when the heat causes expansion of the
coolant. It has a coolant reservoir that collects coolant that has
expanded with the rising temperature of the coolant and would
otherwise overflow from the system. When the system temperature
drops, the coolant is drawn from the coolant reservoir back into
the radiator by suction created by coolant contraction thus
maintaining a completely filled radiator.
This cycle occurs when the coolant reaches a certain pressure in
the radiator regulated by the spring holding the overflow cap
closed in the filler neck. The pressure of the expanding coolant
overcomes the tension spring in the cap and allows the excess
coolant under pressure to overflow into the expansion tank, or
recovery tank through the overflow port in the filler neck.
In a closed-type system care should be taken when checking your
coolant level in the radiator. After initial fill up, the radiator
is full and the cap is installed, all level checking should be done
at the expansion tank. As the cooling system goes through its
heating and cooling cycles, coolant needed to replace air trapped
in the system will be drawn from the expansion tank. This is where
you add coolant if the system is low. Removing the radiator cap
will result in loss of system balance and it will take another
heating/cooling cycle to reestablish this balance.
Open-type cooling system. Early vehicles with narrow radiators
placed the tanks at the top and bottom of the core. The filler cap
was placed on the top of the top tank. The radiator was filled with
coolant to within one to two inches from the top of the tank to
allow for expansion of the coolant. When these systems were
pressurized by adding a pressure release cap to the radiator,
excess coolant created from expansion was vented to the outside. An
over flow catch can was installed instead of dumping this excess
coolant onto the ground. However, the coolant is not drawn back
into the system as it is with the closed system. In street
applications, an upright radiator (top and bottom tanks, with the
cap on the top tank) represents a compromise that will work, as
long as the car is not operated at sustained high RPM, like those
seen in racing.
Radiator CapsThe radiator cap is often overlooked in common
engine overheating problems. It is designed to add pressure to the
cooling system and increase the boiling point of the coolant. That
is accomplished through the use of an internal spring-loaded
pressure relief valve. Which one to choose depends on the type of
system your vehicle is equipped with.
This is a typical pressure release-type radiator cap with a
spring-loaded internal cap designed to lift when reaching a
predetermined pressure within the cooling system. Early cooling
systems would use a cap that released at 4-lbs. while most modern
hot rod cooling systems are set for 15 to 20-lbs
Top Mounted Radiator Cap LocationIn a cooling system, a higher
pressure equates to a higher boiling point for the coolant. Higher
coolant pressures also transfer heat from the cylinder heads more
efficiently. It is recommended that a radiator cap be used with the
highest pressure rating that the radiator is designed to accept.
The coolant will typically only build to 16-18 PSI, due to
expansion up to 200F. However, if the engine does overheat due to
external factors, the pressure inside the cooling system could
reach as high as 28 PSI. Once the radiator cap has opened and
vented coolant, the engine will not cool down until it has been
turned off and more coolant added. The radiator cap is basically a
"safety valve", so always use the highest-pressure radiator cap
that the radiator will tolerate. If you are unsure of the pressure
rating for your radiator, check with the manufacturer for the
maximum recommended operating pressure.Cross flow Radiator Cap
LocationCrossflow radiators with the tanks located on the sides of
the core are used in closed systems. The radiator cap should always
be located at the highest point of the cooling system, and on the
low-pressure side (after the radiator core). Cross flow radiators
mounted higher than the engine are ideal because the cap is on the
tank that is connected to the water pump inlet. This configuration
offers three advantages: 1The cap is at the highest point of the
system, allowing any air to migrate to the area just below the cap.
In the event the cap vents due to excessive pressure, the air will
escape first. 2 This area has the lowest velocity within the
system, allowing air to separate from coolant even at high engine
RPM. 3 The cap is located on the low-pressure (suction) side of the
system, so it is unaffected by the pressure generated by the water
pump.
Water Flow ThermostatsThe thermostat is a temperature-controlled
device installed into the cooling system that opens and closes to
regulate the flow of coolant into the radiator. It opens the valve
in the thermostat allowing coolant flow at a predetermined
temperature and closes halting flow when the coolant temperature
drops. Thermostats are available in a range from about 160 to over
200. Older vehicles with open-style cooling systems and classic
engines usually use a lower temperature thermostat. These engines
operate at lower temperatures and coolant loss can occur in an open
system if the system overheats. Newer vehicles equipped with closed
systems are operated at higher system temperatures to aid in
reducing emissions and do not lose coolant because it is drawn back
into the system when it cools. Any aftermarket thermostat housing
that mounts the radiator cap directly above the thermostat
location, or that mount the radiator cap in the top coolant hose,
are not recommended. Both of those housing styles are poorly
designed, and will push coolant out of the cap at high RPM.
Coolant Flow Through The SystemOlder vehicles used low-pressure
radiator caps with upright-style radiators. At high RPM, the water
pump pressure would overcome the radiator cap's rating and force
coolant out, resulting in an overheated engine. Many mistakenly
believed that these situations were caused because the coolant was
flowing through the radiator so quickly, that it did not have time
to cool. Some added restrictors or slowed water pump speed that
prevented the coolant from being forced out, and allowed the engine
to run cooler. However, vehicles built in the past thirty years
have used cross flow radiators that position the radiator cap on
the low-pressure (suction) side of the system. This type of system
does not subject the radiator cap to pressure from the water pump,
so it benefits from maximizing coolant flow, not restricting
it.
A common misconception is that if coolant flows too quickly
through the system, that it will not have time to cool properly.
However the cooling system is a closed loop, so if you are keeping
the coolant in the radiator longer to allow it to cool, you are
also allowing it to stay in the engine longer, which increases
coolant temperatures. Coolant in the engine will actually boil away
from critical heat areas within the cooling system if not forced
through the cooling system at a sufficiently high velocity.
HosesStandard full-size hoses should be used to ensure maximum
coolant flow. Using smaller "AN style" hoses can decrease flow that
could inhibit proper cooling.
Pulley RatioFor street applications, the water pump speed must
at least match the crankshaft RPM, to a maximum of 10% faster than
the crankshaft speed.
The Choice for our ApplicationOur application, a 32 Ford highboy
roadster, equipped with an upright-style open-type cooling system
has to cool a big Buick Nailhead V8 with a small grille opening. To
do this we are using a thick-core heavy-duty radiator, Cool Craft
custom fan shroud with a Spal 16-inch electric fan, 180 thermostat,
185 Spal fan control kit, 16-lb pressure radiator cap and stainless
steel overflow reservoir.
We settled on this combination after considering all of the
previously mentioned factors. The key player in keeping our system
operating within the proper range is the fan control. Ours engages
the fan at 185F and shuts off at 165F. This allows the cooling
system to operate within the proper range without overheating at
slow speeds or when idling and while avoiding any significant loss
of coolant.
Spals fan relay harness kit includes: a fan wiring harness with
relay, fuse holder and fan thermostat (sending unit) 185 or 195.
Complete illustrated installation instructions make the
installation simple.
Wiring diagram includes the following instructions:Mount the
relay in a secure place in the engine compartment away from heat
sources or on the panel with the main fuse blockwhichever is most
convenient.Once this is completed, connect the wires per the
diagram and notes below.Red:Connect to the red wire of fan pigtail
with pre-terminated yellow crimp.Gray: Connect to thermostat socket
(sending unit) with blue ring crimp connector.Yellow: Connect to
positive battery terminal using the fuse holder and yellow crimp
connectors per diagram.Orange: Connect to ignition switch +12 vdc
when engine is in run position. (Hook to constant +12 vdc for the
fan to run continuously when the engine is hot even when the
ignition switch is off).Black: Connect ring terminal to chassis
ground.Fuse Holder: Connect fuse holder inline per diagram within
12-inches of the battery using ring terminal or equivalent.*Note:
On medium profile fans use a 20-amp fuse; on low profile fans use a
15-amp fuse.
The thermostat (sending unit) supplied with the kit is an OE
type that is designed to mount in the cylinder head of the engine.
However any mounting in the water jacket is suitable. In our Buick
Nailhead we mounted it in the water manifold on the engine block
side of the water flow thermostat. The sensor is 3/8-inch pipe
thread so an adapter may be needed in some applications (1/2-inch
adapter included in the kit). Do not use Teflon tape on the sensor
or you will get poor electrical contact and inaccurate temperature
readings.
Grey wire is connected to the thermostat (sending unit) terminal
with the blue ring crimp connector provided.Depending on the model,
the thermostat (sending unit) triggers the fan on at 185F. and off
at 165F. or on at 195F. and off at 175F. A toggle switch can be
wired into the system to manually override the cycling of the
fan.
Pre-wired connector plugs into fan connector and the red wire is
routed to the relay via an inline crimp connector. Black wire from
plug is connected to chassis ground.
Our open-type cooling system needed an overflow tank to catch
coolant when the system heated up causing expansion. We chose this
Speedway polished stainless steel tank that would fit alongside the
radiator within the hood confines of our narrow engine bay.
SPEEDWAY Stainless steel expansion reservoir tank with screw-off
cap.Heavy WallBillet Screw in CapClear Neoprene
SealApplication:This tank is designed to catch overflow from the
radiator.It cannot be pressurized.Info:2" outside diameter, 14"
nipples-works with any radiator. Stops loss of coolant and prevents
pulling air into system when cooling off. PolishedSpecs:Body
height: 14Neck and cap height: 1Tube Lengths: Short 1-3/8: Long
2Overall length: 17Mounting holes are 9.375" center to
centerInstallation Note:Short tube is for the radiator overflow
hoseLong tube is for the overflow / dump hose (vent for the
tank)
www.SpeedwayMotors.com
Tabs for mounting the tank were welded onto the left side-strap
of the radiator.A MIG welded was used to minimize heat buildup
during the process. Short screws could have been used without
penetrating the radiator core tubes because the outside rows are
usually capped off in the tanks.Check with the radiator
manufacturer to confirm this before assuming this is the case in
your application.
Top bracket was installed at least 2-inches below the top of the
core. The bottom bracket placed to lineup with the bottom
mounting-tab on the tank.
This diagram shows the routing for the overflow hose from the
radiator filler neck into the overflow tank and the excess overflow
tube inside the tank.
Filler neck on the radiator has this overflow port that allows
the excess coolant to escape when the coolant expands from engine
heating. This happens when the radiator caps inner cap lifts due to
the pressure within the system.
Overflow tube within the overflow tank allows the excess coolant
to be dumped onto the ground should too much coolant accumulate
Overflow tank fits within the hood line of the engine bay for
those who wish to run side-hoods.
So lets open it up and see whats inside.
Ah, yes, thats right, I bought a MegaSquirt ECU from someone on
the GRM board. Also included in the box was a wiring harness and
the assembly guide for the ECU. Seeing as there are a few wiring
decisions to be made, I decided to go through the build
instructions and ensure that everything was in the correct place.
Everything was where it needed to be except for two things.
Considering how many components are on this thing, thats pretty
darn good.These two transistors were in the correct places, but
they were put in backwards. The curve of the narrow sides is
supposed to follow the silkscreened curve on the PCB.
After ten minutes with a soldering iron, solder wick, and a pair
of pliers the problem is solved.
While driving the car I noticed that the ABS warning light wasnt
coming on when it should (while starting the car) and the ABS wasnt
working. So I pulled the gauge cluster and replaced the bulb.
Wouldnt you know it, ABS light comes on and stays on.
So it seems that the previous owner(s) had left the ABS broken
so long that the warning light actually burned out, nice.I did a
couple of hours of research on the internet for why the ABS wasnt
working. It turns out that there is a fusible link in the ABS relay
under the dashboard breaks after someone jump starts the car
backwards. I pulled the relay apart and found this:
The fusible link was broken. The internet also told me that you
could solder a couple of wires across the broken fuse with a 7.5-8
amp fuse inline. So I did just that.
Put it back in the car and the ABS light went out and the ABS
worked. But I also noticed that the relay was getting very warm
while the car was running. So I took the relay apart again and
found that one of my solder joints wasnt connected well. In the
process of fixing it I accidentally unsoldered another joint in the
relay. It happened to be one end of the coil wire and proved
impossible to fix. Next run to the salvage yard Ill look for a
replacement.Yesterday was the first autocross of the season in my
region so naturally I had to go.
It was a lot of fun, but I was reminded how much I hate
automatic transmissions in performance applications. I could bump
shift it between 1 and 2, but it still felt slow. Overall
impressions: the car has lots of body roll, the nearly new
all-season tires arent very good (to be expected), the limited slip
works well, the engine pulls strong (at least compared to my del
Sol), and the seat needs to be lowered and/or the sunroof
removed.In two weeks the car gets its daily-driver privileges
revoked and we can finally really start digging into it. I cant
wait.1995-2002 Toyota 4Runner Fog Light Installation Using Factory
Fog Light PrewireI recently installed aftermarket fog lights on a
2000 Toyota 4Runner (Third Generation). I was able to use some of
the factory wiring that was already ran for optional factory fog
lights.
Under the hood on the driver side, you should be able to locate
the fuse/relay panel. The fog lights fuse/relay location are
normally clearly marked on the top plastic cover.
The fog lightcircuit istypically fused at 15 amps. If the
vehicle didn't comeequippedwith the factory fog lights, there will
mostlikelybe no relay in the location. If you look at the relay
location you will notice five female spadeconnectors. The two
larger spade connectors on the right side are the ones I used (A
and B. One should meter constant 12V, the other should meter
continuity to the pink wires on the factory fog light
harnesses.
The factory fog light harnesses should be taped up behind the
bumper. On each side, they are pretty easy to find.
On the factory fog light harnesses you should have two
wiresWhite/Black - GroundPink - Goes up to fuse/relay panel in
engine bay (Positive)
If you connect your aftermarket fog lights, to the wires at the
factory fog light harnesses. White/Black wires should connect to
ground wires coming off the aftermarket lights, Pink wires should
be connected to the positive wirescomingoff the aftermarket lights.
Now when you jump terminals A and B at the factory fog light relay
location,you should be able to power up your new fog lights. The
fog lights I installed required about 8 amps of current with the
vehicle off.
Now all I did was run two wires one from terminal A and one from
terminal B, thoughthe fire wall into the vehicle and connected them
to an on/off switch.
You will always want to make sure to use a switch that
isappropriatelyrated for thisapplication. If I remember correctly I
used a switch rated to handle 25 amps @12 Volts.Hope this
helps!
Jeremy's Car Audio Tips
Posted byJeremy Travis Vasquezat11:49 PM1 comment:Email
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PinterestLabels:4Runner,ToyotaTuesday, May 21, 2013Volvo XC90
Aftermarket Stereo Installation
If you haven't installed an aftermarket stereo into a Volvo
XC90, then you may find this car audio tip helpful.
The stereo removal is pretty easy if you need step by step
direction for removal I will post a link bellow.Metra 99-9225 Dash
Kit InstructionsAlong with a dash kit, you will also need an
aftermarket antenna if you want to be able to get reception with
your new aftermarket stereo. I will post a link to the antenna
Itypically use bellow.Universal Window-mount AntennaIf your going
to be integrating the factory steering wheel controls you will also
need a SWC interface, like the one bellow.Axxess ASWC
Moving on, once the stereo/ac control panel is removed you will
need to separate the face of the stereo from everything els.Make
sure the key iscompletelyout of the ignition switch before
disconnecting any wire harnesses.Do not place the key back into the
ignition switch until you have reconnected
allnecessaryharnesses.
The main LCD display will need to be reconnected and remain in
the vehicle to allow the factory components to function properly.
In order to make this possible you will first need to remove the
LCD display from the stereo panel.
The CD changer portion of the stereo can be removed, and will no
longer be used. The main LCD will need to be reconnected and
setaside.
This is the CD changer harness. Other than the two orange fiber
optics cables there should be three wires.12VConstant-
Violet/WhiteSwitched 12V - VioletGround - BrownWhen I wired up the
new stereo harness I tapped into the Violet/White for my 12V
Constant at this harness, but I tapped into thecigaretteoutlet
power for my Switched 12V and ground because I know the cigarette
outlet is rated for more current.
The wires coming off the cigarette outlet harness should
be,Switched 12V - VioletGround - Black
Once you have connected your main power wires for your stereo,
and any accessories like the power antenna, SWC interface, you will
need to connect your speakers. The Volvo XC90 I installed this
stereo in had what was called the eight speaker system. Some will
come with the twelve speaker system, with anoptionalsub. If the
vehicle your installing the new stereo in has the twelve speaker
system you will need an additional amp to power the additional
speakers. Otherwise some speakers will be lost including the
factory sub.The speaker wires can be found back bellow where the
factory stereo/ac controls mount, in the dash.Front Left Positive -
Gray/RedFront Left Negative - GrayFront Right Positive -
Gray/RedFront Right Negative - GrayRear Left Positive -
Gray/WhiteRear Left Negative - GrayRear Right Positive -
Gray/WhiteRear Right Negative - GrayAs you can see you will need to
meter and pop the speakers with a 1.5V battery to identify what
side the speaker is on.
After locating the speaker wires you will want to cut each pair.
One side will be coming from the factory amp, the other side will
be going to each set of speakers. You shouldn't need to use the
side that runs down towards the factory amp under the passenger
seat. The other side should be the side that runs to each set of
speakers, you will want to test this side with a digital multi
meter. You should get a reading of around 2ohms on each pair of
speaker wires. Now depending on the stereo your installing, will
depend on how you will want to wire these factory speaker to your
new stereo. If your new stereo doesn't support 2ohm speakers, then
you may need to wire the front left and rear left speakers in
series and the front right and rear right speakers in series to get
theimpedance up to around 4ohms. You will lose your "Fade" in the
stereos settings, along with some volume and quality but should
allow you to power the factory speakers off the aftermarket stereo
without adding an aftermarket amp. If you are also installing new
speakers then you shouldn't have to worry about theimpedance of the
factory speakers.
After you have all your wiring taken care of, you will want to
place and secure the main LCD nicely bellow the stereo. I normally
rap it in carpet.
That's just about it, sometimes you will have to cut out some of
the plastic behind the stereo to get it to fit in just right. One
other thing you may want to be aware of is the headphone controls
in the back of the vehicle will be lost.
If you happend to trigger theAIR BAG LIGHTthen you will need to
get that code deleted at thedealership, or if you want to do it
yourself you can purchase a diagnostics tool like this.It is the
Autel AutoLink AL619Anyway I hope this helps!
- JEREMY'S Car Audio Tips
Posted byJeremy Travis Vasquezat10:45 PM27 comments:Email
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PinterestLabels:Factory Amp,Stereo Replacement,Volvo,XC90Ford
F-Series Super Duty Trucks - Wiring Factory Auxiliary Upfitter
Switches
If you are looking to use the factory upfitter switches in a
Ford F-Series Super Duty Truck (F-150, F250, F350, F450, F550) then
this tip may behelpfulto you.
The 4 factory switches aretypicallylocated on the lower
passenger side of the dash, below the stereo.They can be used to
power and control additionalaccessories, when the vehicles ignition
switch is in the on position.
The auxiliary upfitter switch wires aren'ttypicallythe wires you
will clearly see right bellow the driver side steering column.You
cantypicallyfind the wires and the relays under the plastic cover,
located on the end of the driver side dash.
Once that cover is removed, you should see the black relay
pack.
You can remove the black cover to reveal the 4 auxiliary switch
relays. The output wires will be located below the relay pack,
coming out of factory black split loom.
Near the output wires, you should see a white tag
thatidentifiesthe aux output wire colors with the aux switch
number.
AUX 1 - YellowAUX 2 - Green/BrownAUX 3 -Violet/GreenAUX 4 -
Brown
You should be able to located the fuses for the auxiliary
switches in the fuse panel to identify the max current for each
switch. I believe AUX 1-2 are 30 Amps, and AUX 3-4 are 10 Amps.
If you need more room to work, you can unclip the relay pack and
pull it out under the driver steering column right near the parking
brake.
You can also then gain access to the wiring off the back of each
auxiliary relay.Hope this helps!
- JEREMYCar Audio Tips
Posted byJeremy Travis Vasquezat3:43 PMNo comments:Email
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DutyMonday, May 6, 2013Mercedes Benz ML 350 Overhead
Installation
I recently had the pleasure of installing an overhead LCD/DVD
player in a new 2013 Mercedes Benz with a sunroof. Not to much
different from any other vehicle with a sunroof, just had to really
pay attention to details.
I placed the overhead up to the headliner, to get an idea of
where it would look and function the best. Once I had an idea of
where I wanted it, I checked for clearance by dropping the driver
side of the headliner. I then placed the metal mounting plate in
the center of the chosen location, and double checked
mymeasurements.
Once I had it centered, I traced it onto the headliner.
Time to cut the headliner,I slowly cut the piece of the
headliner out with a razor.(Always make sure the sun roof and sun
shade are in the closedposition!)
Once the piece was cut and removed, I checked for proper
fitment.The back of the overhead mounting plate will be secured to
the roofs re-enforcementbracket that runs across the roof of the
vehicle. The front will be supported by the headliner.
I riveted a piece of ABS plastic to the front egde of the metal
mounting plate. This piece of ABS will rest on the top side of the
headliner so when the overhead LCD/DVD player is mounted to this
plate the headliner will be sandwichedin-between.
The dome light is a positive trigger system.Constant 12 Volt -
Pink/BlackPositive Dome Light Trigger - Gray/BlackGround -
Brown
On the back of thecenter consul there should be a power outlet
that is switched power.
That's where I tapped into switched power.
I used short steel rivets to secure the back side of the
mounting plate to the vehicles re-enforcementbraket. I had a little
less then 1/4th inch to work with and using screws was just to
risky.One other thing you must be carful with is where you run your
wires, I ran mine in the little channel of space I had between the
headliner and the re-enforcementbraket that runs across the roof.
If you don't run your wires properly you will get marks/scratches
on the sun shade.
Once I had my wires run and mounting plate secured, I mounted
the overhead and tripple checked clearance.
It was a tight fit but came out perfect!
Car Audio TipsJeremyFuse Panel, Ignition Switches, Etc... How to
Wire Stuff Up Under the Dash.How do you wire up the fuse panel?
What do you need to do to the dash? How's the ingition switch fit
into all this?First you have to figure out what you've got to work
with. Are you using an original ignition switch? Is it from an
older car? Or are you starting from scratch and have a new
universal ignition switch?If you still want to run the original
switch, it's probably not capable of carrying enough current for
modern needs without seriously limiting the the voltage or burning
out all together.However, there is a way to keep it and still use
it to power everything.That's right, our old friend the relay.The
relay is just an industrial sized switch. With it the older
ignition switch can still be used, but now it will simply turn on
and off the relay which takes hardly any juice at all... And it's
simple to do:
Now if you have a newer style switch, they're capable of
handling much more current. However, if you're running lots of
accessories, then you still may want to run a relay.Now, to wire up
your fuse panel, look at the following diagram. Note that only one
wire power wire can run a few circuits on the fuse panel. You use
jumper wires. Some aftermarket ones come with them, and others you
just make your own.Circuit :Ron JEmail :
Description:This circuit features exit and entry delays, an
instant alarm zone, an intermittent siren output and automatic
reset. By adding external relays you can immobilize the vehicle and
flash the lights.
NotesThe alarm is "set" by opening Sw1. It can be any small
1-amp single-pole change-over switch - but for added security you
could use a key-switch. Once Sw1 is opened you have about 10 to 15
seconds to get out of the vehicle and close the door behind you.
When you return and open the door the buzzer will sound. You have
10 to 15 seconds to move Sw1 to the "off" position. If you fail to
do so, the siren will sound. The output to the siren is intermi