Using a Sewing Machine Fashion and Interior Design Page 455-464.

Using a Sewing Machine

Fashion and Interior Design

Page 455-464

Choosing Needle and Thread

Needle- Holds the upper thread on the machineAlways replace when dull

Choosing Needle and Thread

Types of needles-Universal or general purpose- sharpBallpoint- rounded point for knits/stretchStretch- synthetic suede or elastic knitsLeather-wedge- shaped point for heavy fabricsTwin (double) and hemstitch (wing)- decorative

stitching

Choosing Needle and Thread

Needle Sizes- range from 6 (delicate) to 20 (very heavy)Lower = finer fabricHigher = heavier

Size 9 or 11- lightweight (chiffon)Size 14- medium weight (flannel)Size 16- heavy weight

Choosing Needle and Thread

ThreadDetermined by type and weight of fabric

Light weight = fine needle, fine thread (polyester/polyester-cotton blend), and short stitches

Medium weight = medium needle, heavier thread (polyester/polyester-cotton blend: heavy duty), longer stitches

Heavy weight = heavy needle, heavier thread ((polyester/polyester-cotton blend: heavy duty), longer stitches

See figure 4-3

Changing Needles

1. Raise the needle to its highest point using the hand wheel

2. Loosen the thumb screw

3. Remove old needle

4. Insert needle firmly up to the needle clamp

5. Tighten the screw

Preparing the Bobbin

Bobbin- holds the bottom threadMust be removed from the case to wind

Preparing the Bobbin

Winding the bobbin1. Loosen the hand wheel knob to prevent the

needle movement2. Insert the end of the thread through the hole

in the bobbin3. Wrap the thread securely around the bobbin

several times4. Place the bobbin on the bobbin winder5. Hold the end of the thread until the bobbin

starts winding

Preparing the Bobbin

Wind the bobbin evenly. You may need to guide the thread

Fill about ¾ full

Preparing the Bobbin

Inserting the Bobbin-Open the slide plateInsert bobbin into its caseMake sure the bobbin thread unwinds the right

direction (refer to manual)Insert case into machineCheck the bobbin tension

Threading the Machine

General process is same for all machines!From spool

To thread guide (directs thread to keep it from tangling)To tension discs

• To take-up lever (controls amount of thread) To more thread guides o To needle

Threading the Machine

Tension Discs-Always check the tension before you being to

thread the take-up leverIf too loose, thread will come out too easyIf too tight, there will be a strong resistance and

thread may breakShould be some resistance but not too strong

Threading the Machine

Thread Guides-If thread guide is on the right, thread needle

from the rightIf thread guide is on the left, thread needle from

the leftPull at least 3 inches of thread from needle

Threading the Machine

Raising the Bobbin ThreadHold the thread from the needle in your left

handWith your right hand, turn the hand wheel

toward you until the needle brings up the bobbin loop

Catch it and pull both pieces of thread to the back of the machine

Adjusting the Machine

Sewing machines create a lockstitch when needle thread intertwines with the bobbin thread

Adjustments to check-StitchLength of stitchTensionPressure

Adjusting the Machine

Stitch TypeStraight stitch- most commonOther stitches- zigzag, stretch, decorative

Controlled by switch on machine

Adjusting the Machine

Stitch LengthNumbers 6-20 indicate the number of stitches per

inchNumbers 1-5 indicate length of stitch in millimeters

(4 means each stitch is 4 millimeters long or about 6 stitches per inch)Regular stitching- medium length 10-12 stitches per

inch (2-2.5 mm)Machine basting- longest stitch, 6-8 stitches (3-4 mm)Reinforcement stitching- very short stitches, 15-20

stitches (1-1.5 mm)

Adjusting the Machine

TensionBalanced stitch- threads lock in the middle

If top thread is flat on top and loops are pulling through- top tension is too tight. Turn tension knob to a lower number

If bottom thread is flat bottom and loops from the top are visible underneath- top tension is too loose. Turn tension knob to a higher number

Adjusting the Machine

PressurePresser Foot- Holds fabric against the feed dog

(moves the fabric)If this pressure is off, your fabric will ripple or at

the end of your seam, one piece will be longer than the other

Using the Sewing Machine

Guidelines on StitchingRaise the needle to the highest position and make sure

both threads are to the back of the machinePlace fabric under presser foot. Put the bulk of the

fabric to the left of youPosition the stitch line directly under the needleTurn hand wheel to lower the needle into the fabric.

Lower presser foot. Add pressure to foot controlWhen you finish stitching, raise the needle to the

highest position, raise presser foot, slide fabric to the back of the machine and clip threads

IMPORTANT!!!

AT THE BEGINNING AND END OF EACH NEW STITCH, STITCH STRAIGHT AND THEN BACK STITCH (3 Stitches) TO SECURE YOUR STITCHES!!!!!

Using the Sewing Machine

Stitching StraightUse your hands to guide the material but never

pull it through. This is the job of the feed dog not you!

Use the guidelines on the throat or needle plate to keep your stitches straight

Using the Sewing Machine

Stitching Problems-Rethread the machineCheck the needleCheck the tensionRefer to chart 4-13 page 463

Sewing Machine Accessories

Straight-stitch footZig-Zag foot- wide opening to allow

needle to move in the correct motionZipper foot- Adjust to right or left so stitch

is close to zipper teethButtonhole foot- Marking for measurement

of buttonBlind stitch-hem foot

Sewing Machine Care

Lint can clog the machineUnplug machine before cleaningOil only if machine requires. After oiling,

stitch on scrap fabric to remove excess oil

Computerized Machines

Push button commandsLCD screensExpensiveMonograms, buttonholes, embroidery,

decorative stitchesHas memory to store designs

Things To Remember

Always sew 1st on a scrap piece of fabric

Make sure your pressure foot is down before you begin to sew

Only turn the hand-wheel toward you

Never sew over pins