Urban Coop Company Video Overview On...2016/05/31 · Video Overview On Thank you! Round-Top Starter Chicken Coop Parts List Ships In 1 Box A. RunPanels 1) Sides 2x (identical) 2)

Copyright® 2015 Urban Coop Company all rights reserved. This document is provided to you for your own personal limited use as a paying customer to assemble your coop. We consider these instructions company intellectual property and are granting you

limited personal use only. Do not copy or distribute without written permission of Urban Coop Company.

Urban Coop CompanyFind your inner farmer

TMRound-Top Chicken CoopModel: Starter

Assembly Instructions V-05.31.16

Please Read: Understanding these concepts will help guide you through the instructions.

Ÿ The bottom part of the coop is called the run.Ÿ The upper part of the coop is the roost.Ÿ Please orient yourself to what we call front, left, back and right side of coop.Ÿ Mating edges of parts to be flush and tight (when called for) will keep measurements in tolerance as the

coop grows in size.Ÿ We usually put more screws than needed in your tool box in case you lose some.Ÿ Having a +/- flat area is required for the coop to assemble and function well.Ÿ We estimate 1-2 hours for a person of ordinary skills to assemble. Two people will make it easier for sure.Ÿ You will need a drill (preferably cordless) and a tape measure would be helpful. Everything else is

provided.Ÿ Drive screws only deep enough to hold parts tight and not bury the heads too deeply as water will sit in

the divots, as it may cause softening of the wood and prematurely loosen screws.Ÿ Many pre-drilled screws holes are driven upside-down so as not to be a place to collect water, look for

pre-drilled holes under parts too.Ÿ There are some screw holes that must be field drilled. The brown and green screws are very aggressive

and will drive with no pre-drilled hole. Keep screw entry points in the meat of the wood and not too close to edges. Screws in knots or close to edges should be pre-drilled.

Ÿ Rough Cedar may have knots or cracks that are normal for this wood. We cull and cut around any imperfections we deem structurally problematic during fabrication. If you get a piece that you feel is not beautiful, please let us know so we can address your concern.

Ÿ We build to ~1/8” tolerance. Cedar expands and contracts considerably and some gaps between boards is to be expected. In any event, they should not be greater than ~1/8”.

Ÿ In the rare occasion that we either mis-fabricated a part, a part was damaged in shipping, or we forgot to package a needed part, contact us and we will FedEx out a replacement part for you at no cost.

Ÿ For a variety of reasons, we recommend dirt floors in the runs of coops. Our egg boxes are wire on the bottom so they could be cleaned in the event of a broken egg. Use shredded junk mail, pine shaving or our favorite, a trimmed old door mat in the bottom of the egg box.

The instructions are intended to be read in page order as the information builds in that way and then referenced during assembly. Pre-reading the instructions will help immensely.

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Help Hotline: 877-741-COOPor Contact form on Website.

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Round-Top Starter Chicken Coop™Parts ListShips In 1 Box

A. RunPanels1) Sides 2x (identical)2) Back (solid wood)3) Front (wire, has door)4) Door Stop

B. Roost1) Back (has logo)2) Front (no logo)3) Side (with door)4) Side (no door) 5) Mid-roof Supports 2x6) Roost Bar7) Eave Boards 4x8) Galvalume Roof Panels 2x9) Fowl Weather Panels 2X10) Door Stop

C. Egg Box1) Sides (slabs of wood)2) Bottom (wire)3) Face (has hole)4) Entry Board5) Top Valance (arc with holes)

D. Storage Area Fence1) Side Boards 2x (mirrored)2) Front (Engraved if ordered)3) Floor 2X

E. Fasteners (extras included)1) 3” Brown T25 Screws 40+2) 1 5/8” Green T20 Screws 35+3) Rubber Washer Roof Screws 12

F. Tools Provided1) T25,T20 Torx bits2) Phillips Bit3) Magnetic Bit Holder

G. Loose Hardware1) Door Latches & Screws 4X

H. Required Tools (not Provided)1) Drill (cordless preferred)2) Measuring Tape

I. Recommended Tools1) Level

J. Accessories (optional)1) Easy Fill Waterer a) Tee b) Down Assembly c) Slotted Cap d) Reservoir Assembly e) Adapter Assembly f) 2X Pipe Couplings g) Can of PVC Glue

2) Easy Fill Feeder a) Feed Tube b) Feed Delivery Assembly c) Cap

3) Run Extension ▪ Sides, Top, Header & Hardware 4) Coop Storm Panels (3 Panels) ▪ Retainer Slats & Screws

5) Run Ext. Storm Panels (3 Panels) ▪ Retainer Slats & Screws

Urban Coop CompanyFind your inner farmer

Care:You can paint or seal your coop with just about any water based product. Some people don’t want chemicals in contact with their hens. Unsealed cedar will last outdoors for many years, better than almost any other wood. Painting or sealing can certainly prolong that life and keep the wood from going naturally grey. An unsealed coop could easily last 10+ years with modest upkeep and a sealed coop longer than that. Clean wood with mild detergent and water or with a commercially available coop cleaner as needed. Glues used in all joints are completely waterproof and all metal parts are galvanized or have exterior rated coatings. Clean coops make for happy healthy hens :)

Placement: Easy access to water/feed and clear access to egg/roost door is recommended. Flat, level high ground is best. Some sunlight is not all bad, and Galvalume roof does a good job at not transferring heat and provides shade. Sunlight does a good job at disinfecting the ground under the coop. Good air movement around your coop is more important than anything else. We recommend dirt in bottom of coops that has good drainage.

Tips:The welded wire is stronger than almost any predator less than a bear :) If you’re worried about diggers, stack heavy block shaped rocks around perimeter of coop to make getting under more difficult. Better yet, bury them around the perimeter just below grade. You can also attach a strip of wire that extends out from the bottom rails, and bury below the surface of the soil. Use a door mat and pine wood shavings or shredded paper in egg box to make laying eggs more comfy for your hens. Egg box bottoms are wire so they can be washed out.

More About Cedar:Your coop is built from rough cut Appearance Grade North American Western Red Cedar. Wood deemed defective is culled during fabrication, about 5%-10%. Knots, blemishes, coloring variations, minor surface cracking, slight warping and periodic worm marks are normal parts of rough cedar. We try to make it to where a reversible part always has a “pretty side” and take care to make the “pretty side” show on all parts. If you’re unhappy with a piece of wood we fabricated into your coop, send us a picture. We want you to love every piece of your new coop.

About your new coop!

Copyright 2015 all rights reserved. Do not duplicate any portion by any means except for your own personal use or distribute without prior written permission of the Urban Coop Company.

We claim all available Federal protection for the name Round-Top Chicken Coops™, our protected designs and trade dress as is allowed by any and all Federal intellectual property protection laws.

Brenda’s Hen House

© Urban Coop Company, all rights reserved.

Back

Front

Water FeederArea

Run Door

Left Side

Roost & Egg Box Door

Right Side

Preferred North

Round-Top Chicken Coop™ Starter Parts Identification 1 of 3


A1 Run Side Panels (2X Identical) A3 Run Front Panel (Has Door)

B1 Roost Back Panel (Has Logo)

B3 Roost Left Side (Has Door)

Door Stops X2B2 Roost Front Panel (No Top Notches)

B4 Roost Right Side (No Door)

A2 Run Back Panel (Solid Wood)

B5 Mid-Roof Supports (Identical)

B6 Octagonal Roost Bar B7 Eave Boards (4X Identical) B8 Galvalume Roof Metal (2 Pcs)



B9 Roost Storm Panels 2X C1 Egg Box Sides 2X (Same) C2 Egg Box Bottom

D2 Front (aka Name Board)D1 Side Boards (2x Same) D3 Floor (Water Side & Feed Side)

C4 Egg Box Entry Board C3 Egg Box Face C5 Egg Box Top Valence

J1G Can of PVC CementFasteners, Tools & Hardware J1A Easy Fill Waterer Tee



J1C Waterer Slotted CapJ1D Reservoir Tube & CapJ1B Waterer Down Assembly

J1E Waterer Adapter Assembly J1F 2x Waterer Couplings

J2A Easy Fill Feeder Tube J2C Feeder Cap

J2B Feed Delivery Assembly WYE

2Run Assembly Step 2

Run Assembly Step 1 1Assemble A1 Sides to A2 Back: On a flat piece of ground near where you want the coop to sit, attach A2 back to A1 left side using 2 E1 brown screws screwing the back onto the side FIG 1. Screws go into pre-drilled holes in the A2 back panel. Repeat for the A1 right side panel FIG 2. Top rails of the A1 and A2 panels have screw holes under the rails that are used in next steps.

Attach A3 Front to sides: Attach A3 front to A1 sides using 2 E1 brown screws per side screwing the front onto the sides FIG 1. Screws go into pre-drilled holes in the A3 front panel. Attach A4 door stop to top center inside door frame using two E2 green screws making top edge flush FIG 2. Attach the two G1 door latches as shown FIG 3 in pre-drilled holes of A3 top using small provided phillips screws. Check squareness of run by measuring corner to corner both ways and rack corners as needed to get each diagonal measurement to be within an 1/8th of an inch of being the same FIG 4.


Screw HolesUnder TopRails

Fig 1

Fig 1

Fig 2

Fig 4

Fig 2 Fig 3

FlushEdges &Tops

Hinges On Bottom

Remove Screw FromSide of Door FrameThat Holds ShutDuring Shipping.

Measure

Rack

Rack

4Roost Assembly Step 2

Roost Assembly Step 1 3Assemble B1 Back to B3, B4 Sides: Attach B1 roost back to top of back side of run making sure edges are all flush using E1 brown screws screwed up through top of A2 back into bottom of B1 FIG 1. Place B3 roost left side on left side of run making sure edges are flush and first attach back B1 to B3 side using E1 brown screws driven from B1 back into B3 side panel FIG 2. Making sure B3 side is flush, drive screws from up under side of run into side of roost FIG 3. Repeat for other side FIG 4.

Attach B2 Front to sides: Attach B2 front to roost sides using 2 E1 brown screws per side screwing the front onto the sides FIG 1. Screws go into pre-drilled holes in the B2 front panel. Attach B10 door stop to top center inside B3 door frame using two E2 green screws making top edge flush FIG 2. Attach G1 door latches FIG 3 into pre-drilled holes on left and right upper sides of the door frames using provided phillips screws. Make sure to flip latch as required to make it closed in the down position so that gravity will make the latch hang down in the lock slots FIG 4. Remove shipping screw inside door frame that holds door closed during transport.


Fig 1

Fig 2 Fig 3

Fig 2 Fig 3 Fig 4

Fig 4

Fig 1

6Roost

Egg Box 5Assemble Egg Box: Assemble the two C1 egg box sides to the C2 egg box bottom using 2 E2 green screws per side with wire side down FIG 1. Lower the egg box C2 bottom assembly down into the back part of the roost so that the side tops sit flush with the top edges of B2 B3 bottom rails and attach using two E2 green screws per side FIG 2. A little lower is better than too high. Affix the C5 valence to the top of the C3 egg box face using two E2 green screws as indicated in FIG 3. Drop down the C3 face assembly down into the roost resting the back board ledge on the front edge of the C2 egg box bottom and affix using three green E2 screws driving through C3 into C2 to form the front of the egg box FIG 4.

Roost Bars: Attach the C4 egg box entry board to the C3 egg box face using 2 E1 brown screws positioning on bottom edge of face and over the 2nd C3 egg box face slat FIG 1. Barely start an E1 screw in the pre-drilled hole on the outside B2 front as shown in FIG 2 leaving just the tip sticking through. Lower the B6 roost bar into the roost FIG 4 with the tip of screw in FIG 2 poking into the end of B6 roost bar just enough to keep it from slipping and attach the other end of the B6 bar using an E1 brown screw by screwing into the end of the B6 roost bar from back side of C3 egg box face into end of B6 bar FIG 3. Back out screw in B2 front, level bar, and drive in front end of B6.


Fig 1

Fig 2 Fig 3

Fig 2 Fig 3 Fig 4

Fig 4

Fig 1

Top EdgeBottom RailB2 B3 Sides

Offsetentry boardto left ofhole to enter egg box.

8Roof

Eaves & Mid-Roof Supports 7The B5 mid-roof supports drop down into place resting in the shallow recess in the tops of B2 and in the notches of B1. After tapping into place they should sit just above the C5 valance and be flat. Affix the B5 mid-roof supports using 1 each E1 brown screw through pre-drilled hole in front side of B2 into ends of B5 mid-roof supports FIG 1. Other end just locks into B1 notch FIG 2. Repeat B5 install for other side. Using a tape measure make a pencil mark 20 1/2” measuring from front edge of B2 along top bevels of B3 and B4 FIG 3. The four B7 eave boards are the same. Attach the four B7 eave boards to the top edges of the roost assembly aligning top edges of eave boards with top beveled rails of roost sides and using E2 green screws to attach using pre-drilled holes aligning halves of 2 eave boards to pencil mark that you made FIG 4. This will leave the right eave overhang on the front and back of the roof.

Loosely position roof panels in proper orientation. B8 right roof panel has a single v-groove on its top edge, B8 left roof panel top edge is flat. B8 right top edge v-groove overlaps center v-groove of B8 left on the left B5 mid-roof support as shown in FIG 1. Moving both panels together, align left to right where panels are straight and hang over eaves equally on bottom edges and hang over about 1/2 inch beyond B5 support ends FIG 3. Put in first E3 roof screw in eave back edge left corner FIG 2. Check that panel is straight along eave edge and B3 door opening clears and put in eave edge front screw FIG 4. Adjust if needed and then finish screwing down all 12 E3 screws, 4x along eave edges and 4x along left B5 mid-roof support FIG 3.


Fig 1

Fig 2 Fig 3

Fig 2 Fig 3 Fig 4

Fig 4

Fig 1

Screws TopEdge

20 1/2” PencilMark MiddleMark of EaveBoard halves

Right PanelOver

Left PanelUnder

LeftB5

1/2” Over

(Note: Only tighten roof screws just enough to just compress the rubber washer)

9Storage AreaStorage Area for Optional Waterer & Feeder: Using 2 E1 brown screws, attach the two D3 floor halves together with holes on outer edges FIG 1. Larger hole in D3 is for waterer and smaller hole for feeder, orient D3 as desired and using 6 brown E1 screws, screw down side edge and front edge FIG 2. There are no pre-drilled holes so that you could choose how to orient. Attach D1 side boards to both sides as illustrated in FIG 3 with flush block to back using E1 brown screw FIG 3. Attach front board (engraved if you ordered) using 4 E2 green screws FIG 4. Screw 3 brown E1 screws through bottom inside edge of B2 into back edge of D3 floor FIG 5.


Fig 2 Fig 3 Fig 4 Fig 5

Fig 1

10Water Nipple (install before waterer assembly)


Fig 1

Clean out any debris in the hole in the J1B down and push in the black rubber grommet that came with the water nipple into the hole, twisting it to seat it flat if needed FIG 2. Oriented as shown in FIG 3, force the red bodied nipple into the grommet until seated all the way FIG 4. Some vegetable oil or Vaseline may be required to help lubricate. Use a towel over your hand so you can push harder without it hurting. It fits tight so it won’t leak. A considerable amount of force is required to insert. FIG 5 illustrates how it looks completed (next step) and FIG 1 illustrates the orientation on the coop depending on if you installed the larger hole on D3 to the left or right.

Skip step 10 if you did not purchase the optional Easy Fill Waterer.

Note: If you’ve bought an extension skip these two steps until after the extension step 15 is complete.


11Easy Fill Waterer (if purchased)We omit the primer step of gluing pipe together as water is not under pressure and is unnecessary. Using the provided J1G can of PVC glue, smear a thin but even coating on the inside of the J1A Tee and around about 1” of the edge of the J1D reservoir and assemble as shown in FIG 1. Using same procedure, glue in the 2 J1F couplings in other sides of J1A Tee FIG 2. Next glue the J1E adapter onto either J1F coupling FIG 3. Finally, glue the J1B down assembly FIG 4 into the J1E adapter. LET DRY FOR ABOUT AN HOUR BEFORE YOU PUT CAP ON FIG 5 or you may accidently glue cap in place. After about an hour, rinse thoroughly before putting into service.


Fig 1

Search for the Urban Coop Company channel onyoutube.com for a short primer on gluing PVC pipe.!Please

Observe Warnings On PVCGlue Label

11aIllustrated Waterer Assembly

J1A

J1D

J1F

J1FJ1E

J1B

J1C Cap


13

Fig 1 Fig 2

For additional protection from sub zero winds or sideways driven rain or snow, your coop is provided with B9 roost side storm panels. They are made of ultraviolet resistant translucent corrugated plastic intended for agricultural use, but are not intended to be left on your coop year-round. Chickens are very, very cold hardy and if they are staying dry from the roof and you’ve oriented your coop to the north as recommended storm panels will only be required in the very worst arctic storms and sideways driven rain. Otherwise, leave them off so your hens can enjoy the outdoors as chickens were intended to do. Chickens are most healthy when they have a lot of good air flow.

Panels are held into place by retaining slots cut into the rails of the roost side and roost door. Insert the top edge pushing all the way up into the upper slot until you can get the bottom edge pushed against the wire FIG 1. Then using your hand, push down into the bottom slot to retain FIG 2. Reverse to remove.

Stock Storm Panels

SNOW AREASIf you live in a verysnowy region you

can add a full set ofstorm panels to keep snow out

of the runtoo.

12Easy Fill Feeder (if purchased)

Fig 2 Fig 3

Fig 1

No glue is used so that you can take feeder apart to clean if needed. Slide the J2A main feed tube body up from the bottom through the smaller hole in the D3 floor FIG 1. While holding it up, place it in the upper connection of the J2B feed delivery assembly and seat into place where it fits tight FIG 2. Use provided J2C cap on top FIG 3. DO NOT PUSH CAP ON TOO FAR OR IT MIGHT BECOME STUCK. It is necessary to only push it down 1/4” or so for it to stay on and not allow rain in, especially since the side yard area is covered.

15Optional Run Extension


Fig 2 Fig 3 Fig 4

Fig 1

2 pre-drilledholes @ top

Remove the right side A1 run panel from your coop. Attach your right side A1 run panel to the J3A run extension side panels driving 2 E1 brown screws through A1 into J3A sides as illustrated in Fig 1 making sure the two pre-drilled holes are in the top upper corners of J3A and edges are flush. Have someone hold the other end of the J3C header board and affix between the two upper edges of the J3A sides with top and front edges flush using the 4x 4 1/2 inch long gold J3D screws FIG 2. Take care to drive screws in straight as they are long. Affix the J3B top to the back edge of the A1 side (now the run extension back panel) making sure to put in one screw first, rack square, and then install all other screws making all edges flush FIG 3. Extension slides under B4 bottom roost side as illustrated FIG 4.

Screws

Fig 1

J3AJ3B

J3C

J3EJ3) Run Extension a) Sides 2x b) Top c) Header Board d) 4 1/2” (4) 1 1/4” (8) 3” (10) Screws e) 2x 3 1/2” Hasps, screws & ClipsFig 2

14

Parts ID:

Optional Run Extension

17Optional Storm Panels (parts Identification)


So for each run panel in the kit ( 2 side panels and 1 door panel) and each panel in a run extension storm panel kit (1 top panel and 2 side panels) there will be two retaining slats. The thicker of the two retaining slates for a given set is the upper one and the thinner of the two slats is the lower one. Slats are held in place by extra E2 green screws that ship with your order.

Panel RetainingSlats

J4) Coop Storm Panel Set a) Sides 2x 36” Retaining Slat Set b) Door 1x 18” Retaining Slat Set c) Required E2 Green Screws (32)

J5) Extension Storm Panel Set a) Sides 2x 18” Retaining Slat Set b) Top 1x 36” Retaining Slat Set c) Required E2 Green Screws (28)

How it works: The 3/8 inch thick slat (thinner of a set) screws down on the bottom inside rail of a panel and leaves a small gap along the back edge when mounted flush to the front edge. The thicker 3/4 inch slat mounts in the inside of the upper panel rail. When the plastic sheet is slid into the slot behind the slats, first up and then allowed to drop behind the lower slat, it is captured in place.

16Optional Run ExtensionFig 1 With run extension in place, position a J3E hasp as illustrated in FIG 1 where it will fold over the eyebolt in the J3A side and mark the hasps position with a pencil. Using the J3D 1 1/4” gold screws, attach the hasp where it will fold back over the eye bolt. Repeat for other side and attach provided clips FIG 4 to lock extension onto coop. For cleaning, remove the clip, flip back the hasps, then slide the extension out from under the coop so that you can rake up the run areas.


18Storm Panels Installation Procedure

Fig 2 Fig 3 Fig 4

Fig 1

Using green E2 screws in pre-drilled holes, affix thinner slats to the bottom inside rail of a panel so that the front edge is flush with the panel edge, a small space is left between the wire and the slat and the slat is centered left to right FIG 1. Repeat this procedure for the upper rail of the panel using the thicker slat FIG 2. Install all screws seating tightly but not burring the heads too far.

Insert panel with the upper edge first FIG 3 pushing all the way up behind the upper slat, push in the lower edge of the panel, and then push the panel down behind the thinner lower slat FIG 4. Repeat for all panels using the length of slat that is appropriate for the panel being installed.

19


Egg box bottom and side close-up.

Egg box valance screws on to top of face.

Screw through front of roost into end of roost bar.

Egg box entry board to left and bottom of hole.

Other end of roost bar screws through face.

Egg box face attaches to bottom with screws.

Progress Photos

20Progress Photos


Very important 3 screws in step 9 Fig 5.

These ends of roof supports are flush with top.

Finished coop.

Finished roof frame ready for roof metal.

Just in case you were wondering : )

Roof corbels may need tapped in to seat.

Collect Eggs Here

Hens Sleep Here

About 1/2” upfrom bottom.

Urban Coop Company Video Overview On...2016/05/31 · Video Overview On Thank you! Round-Top Starter Chicken Coop Parts List Ships In 1 Box A. RunPanels 1) Sides 2x (identical) 2)

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