www.sundayterritorian.com.au Sunday, September 1, 2013. Sunday Territorian. 39 PUB: NT NE- WS- DA TE: 1-SE GE: 39 C LO- R: C M Y K sundayterritorian.com.au SUNDAY TRAVEL Escape www.escape.com.au Press for custom printing on their century-old letterpress and board double-decker bus Lodekka, home to fine vintage clothing and accessories. There’s a collection of food carts centred around German bar Prost on North Mississippi St — tortilla meets Korea at Koi Fusion and classic waffles at Miss Kate’s Southern Kitchen are my picks. Missing Link has quirky and collectable pop culture figurines and Land is stocked with plenty of crafty Portland things with an art gallery upstairs. Skip over to The Meadow for craft finishing salts, artisan chocolate and aromatic bitters. The Alberta Arts District also forms part of the north, go there if only for the ice cream at Salt & Straw — pear with blue cheese, cinnamon snickerdoodle or whatever wacky flavour of the month they’ve come up with (vanilla with ancho chillies and cajeta while I was there). NORTHWEST The first streetcar line was built here in 2001. Along with a number of clever urban renewal projects, the abandoned warehouses and blighted landscape of the Pearl District have been brought back to life. The gentrified area is now home to beautiful galleries, restaurants and apartments. Stop by House of Lolo for locally owned and designed silk dresses and a great collection of denim. National retailer Anthropologie has everything from fashion and homewares to wallpaper and bird feeders. At Olympic Provisions NW, old-craft curing techniques have created award-winning chorizo, saucisson and salami and the European-style restaurant is the perfect place to enjoy fine wine and charcuterie. Housed in the old Portland Armory, the Gerding Theater is home to the Portland Centre Stage and is the first LEED- Certified (Leadership in Energy Efficient Design) theatre in the US. Go there for quirky local performances. SOUTHWEST Southwest Portland is the business end of town — tall buildings, performance art venues and the Portland State University. It’s also where you’ll find downtown Portland, the place to call home, with plenty of hotels including The Nines, which sits above department store Macy’s. From here there’s easy access to public transport, including the streetcars and the MAX Light Rail that connects FROM the 400 varieties of salt you can buy at The Meadow to burritos designed to fit in your bike’s water bottle holder, chances are, if you’re nerdy about something, you’ll find a kindred soul in Portland. It’s a philosophy that goes against the grain of modern America, where craft culture is king. You can taste it in food, see it in fashion, hear it in music and walk it in the streets. While speaking with Marcus, an enthusiastic local, I asked the best way to describe “craft culture”. He jokingly replied “think about a bunch of people doing things in the most difficult way imaginable — that’s craft culture”. The aspirations of business owners are to be unique, not imitated and in most cases intentionally small. For some, the definition of success is to own their own food cart. There are 600 in Portland; chefs with decades of experience are content working for themselves in a portable kitchen that may have taken as little as $US10,000 ($A10,901) to set up. You don’t need a million dollars — which brings a lot of creativity, and edginess to the market. Of course when it comes to food it’s not just about what you eat, it’s also about what you drink. A strong barista culture means you can get hold of a good flat white. Craft distilling is big — vodka, whisky, brandy, gin and there are 52 breweries among a population of 600,000. There are five distinct neighbourhoods, each with their own look and feel. Burnside St separates the city from north and south, the Willamette River from east to west, and where the river bends sharply you get the northern part of the city. Spend (at least) half a day in each so you can savour their unique interpretation of what craft culture is. NORTH PORTLAND North Portland is the bohemian part of the city. Tasty n Sons on North Williams Ave is the spot to stop for brunch. There’s a penny-farthing stencil stuck to the wall and a butcher out the back. They’re famous for their grilled bacon-wrapped dates with maple syrup and almonds — a steal at $2. I also tried the cast iron frittata with butternut squash, brussels sprouts, leeks and fetta ($9) and a polenta and sausage ragout with stretchy mozzarella for $9. The food is delicious and fantastic value. Walk up the street to Lark downtown to everywhere, including the airport. Group and business dining works especially well at Vitaly Paley’s restaurant Imperial, just two minutes’ walk from The Nines hotel. Try the Oregon Albacore tuna ceviche with kale and raw vegetable salad for something light or the organic half- chicken and ember-roasted carrots to see the woodfired rotisserie in action. Get your craft-culture fix at Pendleton Store woollen mills for beautiful woollen knits and blankets and Cacao for their house-made hot chocolate and choice in local chocolatiers. NORTHEAST A new streetcar line along with a number of urban renewal projects is bringing the mostly industrial streets of the Northeast back to life. Head to Breakside Brewery on Dekum St for a lambwich, a beer sampler tray and a side of sweet potato waffle fries. Lucca delivers fine woodfired pizza and house-cured meats on 24th Ave and stop by Voodoo Doughnuts for a sugar hit. Burnside St is the place for lovingly reworked vintage and Redux for handmade indie jewellery, gifts and cards. Toys to be treasured are in high demand at SpielWerk Toys on North Williams St. SOUTHEAST Although no longer new, the Southeast is still part of that inner-city cool. Well-established restaurants and shops draw a loyal following, attracting a young liberal, hipster crowd with plenty of micro-breweries, restaurants and bars. There are countless vintage finds throughout Portland but a particularly generous smattering can be found along the Southeast’s Division. If you like knitting your own grandpa cardigans head to Yarn Garden or Happy Knots for kitsch crochet and craft supplies. The writer was a guest of Travel Portland. NERD MENTALITY: Y Y: (clockwise from main) NERD MENTALITY Y Y: : clockwise from main) (c ( NERD MENTALITY Y Y: : clockwise from main) (c ( Portland food carts; a frittata from Tasty n Sons; rtl land food carts; a fri and food carts; a fri a from Tasty n Sons; ittata it a from Tasty n Sons; ttata ttat tland food carts; a fr ittata from Tasty n Sons; land food carts; a fri ittata from Tasty n Sons; ittata charcuterie from Olympic Provision; Tasty n uterie from Olympic Provision; Tasty n uterie from Olympic Provision; Tasty n uterie from Oly mpi c Provision; T ast yn Sons’ decor. Pictures: Chanel Parratt Foster culture of quirky creativity Whether you visit five districts in this US city or just pick one, you are sure to find something different, writes Chanel Parratt GO2 PORTLAND GETTING THERE Qantas and Virgin Australia fly direct from Sydney, Brisbane and Melbourne to Los Angeles, with codeshare flights to Portland. STAYING THERE The Nines from $US269 ($A292) a night. thenines.com More: travelportland.com Foster culture of quirky creativity
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www.sundayterritorian.com.au Sunday, September 1, 2013. Sunday Territorian. 39
PU
B:
NTNE-WS-DA-TE:1-SEGE:39 CO-LO-R: C-M Y-K
sundayterritorian.com.au SUNDAY TRAVEL
Escape www.escape.com.au
Press for customprinting ontheir century-old letterpressandboarddouble-decker busLodekka, home to fine vintageclothing andaccessories.There’s a collectionof foodcarts centred aroundGermanbarProst onNorthMississippiSt—tortillameetsKorea atKoiFusion and classicwaffles atMissKate’s SouthernKitchenaremypicks.MissingLinkhasquirky and collectable popculture figurines andLand isstockedwith plenty of craftyPortland thingswith an artgallery upstairs. Skip over toTheMeadow for craft finishingsalts, artisan chocolate andaromatic bitters.
TheAlbertaArtsDistrictalso formspart of thenorth, gothere if only for the ice creamatSalt&Straw—pearwith bluecheese, cinnamonsnickerdoodle orwhateverwacky flavour of themonththey’ve comeupwith (vanillawith ancho chillies and cajetawhile Iwas there).
NORTHWEST
The first streetcar linewas builthere in 2001.Alongwith anumber of clever urban renewalprojects, the abandonedwarehouses andblightedlandscapeof thePearlDistricthave beenbrought back to life.The gentrified area is now
home to beautiful galleries,restaurants and apartments.
Stop byHouse of Lolo forlocally ownedanddesigned silkdresses and a great collectionofdenim.National retailerAnthropologie has everythingfrom fashion andhomewares towallpaper andbird feeders.
AtOlympicProvisionsNW,old-craft curing techniqueshave created award-winningchorizo, saucisson and salamiand theEuropean-stylerestaurant is the perfect place toenjoy finewine and charcuterie.
Housed in the oldPortlandArmory, theGerdingTheater ishome to thePortlandCentreStage and is the first LEED-
Certified (Leadership inEnergyEfficientDesign) theatre intheUS.Go there for quirkylocal performances.
SOUTHWEST
Southwest Portland is thebusiness endof town—tallbuildings, performance artvenues and thePortlandStateUniversity. It’s alsowhere you’llfind downtownPortland, theplace to call home,with plentyof hotels includingTheNines,which sits abovedepartmentstoreMacy’s.
Fromhere there’s easy accessto public transport, includingthe streetcars and theMAXLightRail that connects
FROMthe400varieties of saltyou canbuy atTheMeadow toburritos designed to fit in yourbike’swater bottle holder,chances are, if you’re nerdyabout something, you’ll find akindred soul inPortland.
It’s a philosophy that goesagainst the grain ofmodernAmerica,where craft culture isking. You can taste it in food, seeit in fashion, hear it inmusicandwalk it in the streets.
While speakingwithMarcus,an enthusiastic local, I askedthe bestway to describe “craftculture”.He jokingly replied“think about a bunchof peopledoing things in themostdifficultway imaginable—that’s craft culture”.
The aspirations of businessowners are to beunique, notimitated and inmost casesintentionally small.
For some, the definitionofsuccess is to own their own foodcart. There are 600 inPortland;chefswith decades ofexperience are contentworkingfor themselves in a portablekitchen thatmayhave taken aslittle as $US10,000 ($A10,901)to set up. Youdon’t need amilliondollars—whichbringsa lot of creativity, and edginessto themarket.
Of coursewhen it comes tofood it’s not just aboutwhat youeat, it’s also aboutwhat youdrink.A strongbarista culturemeans you canget hold of agood flatwhite. Craft distillingis big—vodka,whisky, brandy,gin and there are 52 breweriesamongapopulationof 600,000.
There are five distinctneighbourhoods, eachwiththeir own look and feel.
Burnside St separates the cityfromnorth and south, theWillametteRiver fromeast towest, andwhere the river bendssharply youget thenorthernpart of the city.
Spend (at least) half a day ineach so you can savour theirunique interpretationofwhatcraft culture is.
NORTHPORTLAND
NorthPortland is the bohemianpart of the city. Tasty nSons onNorthWilliamsAve is the spotto stop for brunch. There’s apenny-farthing stencil stuck tothewall and a butcher out theback. They’re famous for theirgrilled bacon-wrappeddateswithmaple syrup andalmonds—a steal at $2. I also tried thecast iron frittatawith butternutsquash, brussels sprouts, leeksand fetta ($9) and apolenta andsausage ragoutwith stretchymozzarella for $9. The food isdelicious and fantastic value.
Walkup the street to Lark
downtown to everywhere,including the airport.
Group andbusiness diningworks especiallywell atVitalyPaley’s restaurant Imperial, justtwominutes’walk fromTheNines hotel.
Try theOregonAlbacoretuna cevichewith kale and rawvegetable salad for somethinglight or the organic half-chicken and ember-roastedcarrots to see thewoodfiredrotisserie in action.
Get your craft-culture fix atPendletonStorewoollenmillsfor beautifulwoollenknits andblankets andCacao for theirhouse-madehot chocolate andchoice in local chocolatiers.
NORTHEAST
Anewstreetcar line alongwithanumber of urban renewalprojects is bringing themostlyindustrial streets of theNortheast back to life.
Head toBreaksideBreweryonDekumSt for a lambwich, abeer sampler tray anda side ofsweet potatowaffle fries. Luccadelivers finewoodfired pizzaandhouse-curedmeats on 24thAve and stop byVoodooDoughnuts for a sugar hit.
Burnside St is the place forlovingly reworked vintage andRedux for handmade indiejewellery, gifts and cards. Toysto be treasured are inhighdemandat SpielWerkToys onNorthWilliamsSt.
SOUTHEAST
Althoughno longer new, theSoutheast is still part of thatinner-city cool.Well-established restaurantsand shops drawa loyalfollowing, attracting a youngliberal, hipster crowdwithplenty ofmicro-breweries,restaurants andbars.
There are countless vintagefinds throughoutPortlandbut aparticularly generoussmattering canbe foundalongtheSoutheast’sDivision.
If you like knitting your owngrandpa cardiganshead toYarnGardenorHappyKnots forkitsch crochet and craft supplies.
Thewriter was a guest of Travel
Portland.
NERD MENTALITY:Y:Y: (clockwise from main)NERD MENTALITY:Y:Y:Y: (clockwise from main)(cl(clNERD MENTALITY:Y:Y:Y: (clockwise from main)(cl(cl(cl(cl
Portland food carts; a frittata from Tasty n Sons;Portlatland food carts; a fritttland food carts; a frittata from Tasty n Sons;a frittataa frittata from Tasty n Sons;ittataittataPortland food carts;ts; a fra frittata from Tastysty n Sons;tland food carts; a fritta frittata from Tasty n Sons;a frittata
charcuterie from Olympic Provision; Tasty nrcurcuterie from Olympic Provision; Tasty nrcuterie from Olympic Provision; Tasty nrcuterie from OlyOlympimpic Provision; Tn; Tastasty ny nrcuterie from OlyOlympimpic Provision; Tn; Tastasty n
Sons’ decor. Pictures: Chanel Parratt
Foster culture ofquirky creativity
Whether you visit
five districts in
this US city or just
pick one, you are
sure to find
something
different, writes
Chanel Parratt
GO2PORTLANDGETTING THERE
Qantas and Virgin
Australia fly direct from
Sydney, Brisbane and
Melbourne to Los Angeles,
with codeshare flights to
Portland.
STAYING THERE
The Nines from $US269
($A292) a night.
thenines.com
More: travelportland.com
Foster culture of quirky creativity
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