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visas 16, 41-4, 225, 323Vladimir 117-20Vladivostok 15, 29, 227-36,
228, 15Volga-Ural Mountains
trip 124Volkonsky, Sergei 181
Wwalking, see hikingwater 89, 404weather 16, see also
individual regionswebsites
China 17, 302, 370health 403railway history 337,
339, 340Russia 57, 89, 352, 357,
375, 377
travel planning 17, 24, 35, 39, 45
White Nights 23white-water rafting 21wi-fi 51wildlife 377-8Winter Palace 90Witte, Sergei 331women travellers 393, 405wrestling 267
YYakutsk 247Yaroslavl 126-7Yekaterinburg 142-9, 144Yekaterinburg to
Krasnoyarsk 53, 138-67, 139, 141
accommodation 138climate 138
food 138highlights 139itineraries 140route information 138,
140-2travel seasons 138
Yeniseysk 178Yungang Caves 283yurts, see ger camps
ZZamyn-Üüd 280Zedong, Mao 306Zhōngshān Park 309-11
Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000
427N
OTES
428
NO
TES
429N
OTES
420
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OUR READERS Many thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with help-ful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: Ask Gudmundsen, Chris Fray, Elisabeth Tacke, Ercan Tatar, Gaston Hourcade, Hanna Sarkimaa, Hannah Leupold, Jay Phang, Julia Simon, Michael Omota, Olivier Ordóñez, Patrice Etienne, Piet van den Heuvel, Saori Komuro, Siegfried Schwab, Sonja Minkus, Stef Russell, Thomas Sarosy,
AUTHOR THANKS Simon RichmondMany thanks to my fellow authors and Brana at HQ; Sasha & Andrey for a lovely place to stay, the ever knowledgable Peter Kozyrev, Chris Hamilton, Adelya Dayanova, Polina Adrianova, Dimitri Ozerkov, Vladimir Stolyarov, Yegor Churakov, Oksana, Maxim Pinigin, Alexander Kim, Maria Isserlis, Yevgenia Semenoff and Polina at the Street Art Museum.
Greg BloomThanks to Dima for the hospitality in Shere-gesh. Thanks to Rita for the Altai advice and for hooking me up with several contacts. Thanks to Vladimir, my crazy cab driver, for the colourful language and Chuysky Trakt anecdotes. Thanks to Russian Railways for being so damn punctual.
Thanks to kalyan. Thanks to the peeps of West-ern Siberia for being good souls.
Marc Di DucaHuge dyakuyu goes to Kyiv parents-in-law Mykola and Vira for looking after sons Taras and Kirill while I was in Siberia. Big thanks to Alex in Chita, Denis and Marina in Ulan-Ude, Andriy and Anya in Slyudyanka, Zhenya in Irkutsk, Igor, Lena and Georgy in Tayshet, the Maryasovs of Severobaikalsk, Anatoliy and Alex in Krasnoyarsk, Real Russia in London for their hassle-free visa service and, of course, my wife Tanya, for suffering my long absences from our home in Sandwich, Kent.
Anthony HaywoodThanks to those who helped out with local knowledge, mostly anonymously, along the way, but especially to Katya Y in Kazan and Katya P in Perm. In Yekaterinburg I’d like to thank Konstantin and Olga Brylyakov for sharing their knowledge (and delicious cream cake!), and Luba Suslyakova for her expert opinions and good company over dinner. Thanks also to the staff at Lonely Planet, especially Anna Tyler and Brana Vladisavljevic.
Michael KohnMany thanks to Molly and Baigalmaa for their companionship on the tour to northern Mongolia. A round of thanks is owed to Daniel,
Densmaa and Gustavo Correa, Susan Fox, Surendra Kumar Bansal, Andrea Prégnan, To-roo and Degi, Sabine Schmidt, Lhagva Erdene, Altangerel at the Danzan Ravjaa Museum and Mogi Badral.
Shawn LowAs always thanks to the DE, Brana, for steady-ing the Trans-Siberian ship and for your friend-ship. Cheers also to CA: Simon (yet another one done and dusted!). Thanks to the Lonely Planet crew who are working on this: eds, car-tos, LDs etc. I’ve been behind the scenes and know how hard you all work. Thanks also to new friends and old friends on the ground: too numerous to list but I promise to buy you all beers when our paths cross again. Otherwise, we’ll catch up on WeChat!
Tom MastersHuge thanks to my many friends in St Peters-burg, but especially Anatoliy Buzinskiy at Dozhd, Biblioteka Gogolya and Letovpitere for making such huge efforts to help me with contacts and introductions. Thanks to my old friend and tireless Petersburger Simon Patter-son, his wife Olga Dmitrieva and their amazing children for making me feel at home during my stay, and also for organising my accommoda-tion. Thanks also to such reliable comrades as Nikita Yumanov, Gena Bogolepov, Alexei Dmitriev, Alexei Chernov, Nikita Slavich, Dima Dzhafarov, Sasha & Andrey, Peter Kozyrev and Nastya Makarova. At Lonely Planet big thanks to Simon Richmond, Anna Tyler, Brana Vladis-avljevic and all the in-house eds and cartos for their hard work on this title.
Daniel McCrohanHuge thanks to my uncle, Dave Campos, for being brave enough to join me on my latest Trans-Mongolian adventure; if only that jeep had been as comfortable as the train! Thanks too to fellow authors, David Eimer and Mike Kohn for their help with research in Běijīng and Mongolia respectively. A big nǐhǎo to all my family and friends back in the UK. But most of all, to Taotao and the kids: 我爱你们!
Leonid RagozinMany thanks to my wife Masha Makeeva for bearing with my absences and for accompa-nying me on the Yaroslavl section of this trip. Huge thanks to my Lonely Planet colleague Branislava Vladisavljevic for her patience and helping with numerous issues that were coming up in the course of research. It was also great to catch up with fellow authors – Simon Richmond, Anthony Haywood and Mara Vorhees – in Moscow. Good to see you again!
Regis St LouisThanks go to Anna Kaminski and Greg Bloom for helpful tips on the Far East; Martha Madsen for her hospitality and many tips in Yelizovo; Irina and Sasha for a warm welcome in Esso; Yelena for loads of info at Omega Plus in Yu-zhno-Sakhalinsk; Anastasia for Vladivostok insight; Sasha for the Russky Island excursion; Yegor Makarov for Sakha lore, and Aita, Illary, Elena and expats for all the help in Yakutsk. Hugs to Cassandra and daughters Magdalena and Genevieve for a warm homecoming.
Mara VorheesСамое болшое спасибо to my friend and co-author, Leonid Ragozin, who is a pleasure to work with and fontanka of information about his hometown. Thanks to Tim O’Brien (of course), Marc Bennetts, Simon Richmond and Andrei Muchnik for lots of ideas. As always, thanks to my little guys S&V, for challenging me to see familiar destinations from new per-spectives, and to Daddio, for, well, everything.
THIS BOOK This 5th edition of Lonely Planet’s Trans-Siberian Railway guidebook was researched and written by Simon Richmond, Greg Bloom, Marc Di Duca, Anthony Haywood, Michael Kohn, Shawn Low, Tom Masters, Daniel McCrohan, Leonid Ragozin, Regis St Louis and Mara Vorhees. The previous edition was written by Greg Bloom, Marc Di Duca, Anthony
Haywood, Michael Kohn, Tom Masters, Leonid Ragozin, Mara Vorhees and Marc Bennetts. This guidebook was produced by the following: Commissioning Editor Anna TylerDestination Editor Brana VladisavljevicProduct Editor Tracy WhitmeyBook Designer Wendy WrightSenior Cartographer Valentina Kremenchutskaya