Trainning Vellore: Sanghavi Shoes by Jacson Cardoso First Day:18/04/2007. I Showed…How you use your measure tape. How mutch measure your tape in English? How mutch measure your tape in French ? How mutch is( in and mm)?Progression in length an ball girth. How mutch is scale American,French and English. How you measure right a Last. How you use the machine for centralize the Last. (Kehl Machine) Bottom profile,toe profile,back profile botton pattern.(Revision) To make toe dog and heel dog in machine and only the finishing by hand… The hard work in machine, the details by hand. Only by hand 30 minutes,machine and hand 5 minutes.(Biggest difference) For correct use this machine you need to understand the problem the Last for after the corrections.(Tread point,seat heel,balance,etc)
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Trainning Vellore:Sanghavi Shoes by Jacson Cardoso
First Day:18/04/2007.
I Showed…How you use your measure tape.
How mutch measure your tape in English?
How mutch measure your tape in French ?
How mutch is( in and mm)?Progression in length an ball girth.
How mutch is scale American,French and English.
How you measure right a Last.
How you use the machine for centralize the Last. (Kehl Machine)
To make toe dog and heel dog in machine and only the finishing by hand…
The hard work in machine, the details by hand.
Only by hand 30 minutes,machine and hand 5 minutes.(Biggest difference)
For correct use this machine you need to understand the problem the Last for after the corrections.(Tread point,seat heel,balance,etc)
Picture the machine after centralize this Last.(Adjust the heel height,check everything,and put 6,6.5 or 7 degree)(Or how mutch you need)
Same model after adjust in back part.Lock here the difference only in cuboide.The Last Up and the Last down.
Seat heel and tread point 100%. This model Made in Vellore by Sanghavi Shoes.
Discipline in work.
Second day:19/04/2007.
First I showed how you locked un model,lines,shape,fashion,side,in front,the front,etc.How you use the tools,everything,safe with machines,safe with electric,clean the factory,clear your table,and ability for work in team.
I gave a (model)for everybody. This is the model and I am the customer,I need this Shape…
All are making the same shape.
The importance the bottom simetric.Last simetric in back part.Balance the Last.
Conversion Table for Gents…American,U.K,Brazil,European.
Meeting with boys:What is the company you work ?
Sanghavi Shoes,how many factories have…Halol,Agra,Chennai,Kanpur,Mumbai,New Vellore.
You have a good future,but first need mutch work,because a model maker need long time for to have experience.What is a shoe last model maker?
The model maker is a artisan,a artist the Last,you need to have sensitivity with the Last.
To check all points,check the measurements,check,check,check.Carry out,times,promises.Carry out your task.
Tea only twice per day,one in the morinig other in the afternoon.
Discipline in work.
Third day:20/04/2007.
Now everybody finishing your model,and put your name.This is your first Last your first model,and now everyday you need to make better,everyday you need more quality,agility for your satisfaction and the
customer and the company.
Last definitions:Backpart,backpart width,bottom width,cone,forepart,feather line,grade,grade line,girth,ground plane,heel curve,heel seat,heel seat
boot,chukka,galosh,bootee,oxford shoe,lace-up.(Names and pictures)Parts of a shoe:
Shoelace,punch hole,outsole,heel,heel grip,quarter,lining,all partys.(All partys of a shoe names and pictures)
Today Exam - Test(Same school)Types of scale,conversion table,grading size by size,etc.
Picture the first model,first creation.
Discipline in work and organization.
Fourth day:21/04/2007.
Check the test(Exam)and explain the mistakes and the right.And explain this is normal,because this is the first exam,but it`s necessary
study(To study) more.Position of points of measure the Last,correct positions,how you check the bottom
pattern,girth,alignment,etc.Fitting,to adjust the model,to increase(minus)seat of the last,heel seat.
Tools of work:hammer,screwdriver,cordless screwdriver,screw,tack,nail set(for mark point),file,rasp,wood chisel,drilling tools,gripping and tightening tools.
Comfortable,fitting and fashion.And practice and model room,rasp,rasp,work,work,cutting,cutting,put
material,remove material,etc.
Picture the exam(test in class)
Sense of responsibility,initiative and discipline.
Fifth day:23/04/2007
Starting with revisions,Why make this,How you make this ? Everything again…How you make a Last for a sole.Shape,bottom,copy profile,anatomic.With past
Italy(Car repair)Conversion Table,for ladyes and children.
Measurement,grading,etc.Bottom,and make heel line and centralize line in bottom pattern.Again use the
Kehl Machine for centralize the Last.
And making adjusts,up toe,down toe,change ball girth,increase, length,reduction
ball girth,reduction heel height.
New development,change toe spring,and increase,and making the profiles this
Last,and after checking the Last in centralize machine.
Picture after finishing model.
Ability of relationship,discipline,education with the customer and
everybody.
Sixth day:24/04/2007.Coordenation,heel shank,types,groups,American system
widths,13C(child),6B(woman),8D(man).
AAAA-AAA-AA-A-B-C-D-E-EE-EEE
French system
British system,6 widths,A,B,C,D,E,F.
12E(child),4D(woman),8F(man).
Last measurement control.
Check again,how you use the Kehl Machine.
And more,mutch more practice,by hand,by machine,etc.(Model
Room)
Work with machines,more fast,more quality,better for the
company,better for the customer,better for everybody.
To make the things only by hand is same you have a Ferrari, but
use only 60KM speed…Why? Use machine always ,for more agility
in work.Picture people use the machine.
Dynamism,Discipline,Organization.
Seventh day:25/04/2007.
The priority points of Last.
Toe tickness,ball girth,wais,instep,break of ball,hell to instep girth,stick