Historical Japanese Clothing For Cosplayers An overview of traditional Japanese clothing, from the Heian era to the present day, with an emphasis on fabrics, construction techniques, and how cosplayers in the West can replicate these garments without going broke in the process.
This document is posted to help you gain knowledge. Please leave a comment to let me know what you think about it! Share it to your friends and learn new things together.
Transcript
Historical Japanese ClothingFor Cosplayers
An overview of traditional Japanese clothing, from the Heian era to the present day, with an emphasis on fabrics, construction techniques, and how cosplayers in the West can replicate these garments without going broke in the process.
Breakdown of StylesFor WomenSleeve lengths convey messages about age & marital status
The longest sleeves are reserved for unmarried young women & girls in formal occasions
Color and pattern also convey messages about formalityBlack is very formal, and also used for funeral attireMon (family crests) are also an indication of formality
Accessories are further used in styling kimonoThis includes obi and the knots used to tie them
Heian EraMajor cultural
exchange with China
Importation of Chinese styles for the nobility
WomenHeavily layeredDesigned for aesthetics,
not functionalityChoice of colors importantFrequently all a man would
see before marriage
MenAlso fairly layeredMore functionalStill in use (Shinto
priests)
Men
Kimono
Hakama (nondivided or divided)
Kataginu (formal)Jinbaori ('campaign coat')
Breakdown of StylesFor MenSignificantly less choice and style in men's kimono
Colors are usually subdued, with little patterningOnly two obi types, one formal, one informalOnly recently has style shifted towards more colorful styles
The ‘Modern’ Kimono
WomenSpecific colors and style for different ages and occasions
Furisode (long sleeves, for unmarried women)
Kakeshita (wedding kimono)
Uchikake (elaborate wedding over-robe, padded hem)Some movement away from rigid definition in recent years
MenStill very subdued colors - browns, blacks, bluesMore experimentation with pattern and fabric in recent years
ConstructionKimono are constructed primarily of rectangular pieces of fabric of fixed width (13”-15” based on the historical width of looms). Sewn so that the garment can be taken apart again for washing.
This construction makes it very easy to adjust the size of a kimono for any body type, as no specific ‘pattern’ is needed, the kimono can be constructed based on body measurements.
Useful Linkshttp://www.iz2.or.jp/english/index.htm - diagrams and models of Heian-era clotheshttp://fibers.destinyslobster.com/Japanese/Clothes/japmake.htm - kimono and hakama tutorialshttp://www.round-earth.com/index.html - patterns for multiple garmentshttp://www.folkwear.com/asian.html - patterns for multiple garmentshttp://sarcasm-hime.net/tipscosplay.html - hakama tutorialhttp://www.dharmatrading.com/ - fabric and supplies for dyeinghttp://www.fabrictales.com/STORE/store.cgi?product=chirimen_solid - rayon chirimenhttp://www.sengokudaimyo.com/garb/garb.html - rarer garments with photos and descriptionshttp://www.sengokudaimyo.com/katchu/katchu.html - guide to traditional armor, including patterns and instructions
References & ResourcesDalby, Liza. Kimono: Fashioning Culture. Seattle: U of Washington, 2001. Print.
Dobson, Jenni. Making Kimono and Japanese Clothes. London: Batsford, 2008. Print.
Koike, Yoko, Kumiko Kozakai, and Tomomi Ahiko. Sashiko Style: Traditional Japanese Patterns for Contemporary Design. Japan: Co-published by Japan Publications Trading, and Joie, 2007. Print.