“All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over. So go! ” TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY Timothy Hornyak, Rebecca Milner Tokyo ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
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“All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over.
So go!”
TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET
THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY
Timothy Hornyak, Rebecca Milner
Tokyo
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
SENSŌ-JI (SENSŌ TEMPLE)
I SBN 978 -1 -74220 -040 -8
9 781742 200408
99125
These symbols help you to quickly identify listings in the text and on the maps:
1 SIGHTS
5 EATING
6 DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE
3 ENTERTAINMENT
7 SHOPPING
2 SPORTS & ACTIVITIESReviews are ordered by author preference to help you get the most out of the city.
These symbols give you the vital information for each listing:
S Sustainable Option
% Telephone Number
h Opening Hours
p Parking
n Nonsmoking
a Air-Conditioning
i Internet Access
W Wi-Fi Access
v Vegetarian Selection
s Swimming Pool
E English- Language Menu
c Family-Friendly
# Pet-Friendly
g Bus
f Ferry
m Metro
b Subway
j Tram
d Train
Top Sights features provide in-depth coverage of the city’s very best sights.
How to Use This Book
Plan Your Trip
Your planning tool kit – Photos, lists and suggestions to help you put together your
perfect trip.
Survival Guide
Your at-a-glance reference – Vital practical information to help you have a
smooth trip.
Get more from your trip – Learn about the big picture, so you can make sense of
the city.
Understand
Your complete city guide – Top Sights features, in-depth reviews and
local tips.
Explore
4easy-to-use
sections
plusfull-colour
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Cover photograph: Aerial view of Tokyo Tower, Michiaki Omori/amanaimagesRF/Getty Images
tokyo-9-cover.indd 2tokyo-9-cover.indd 2 14/05/2012 2:29:10 PM14/05/2012 2:29:10 PM
Contents
Welcome to Tokyo ........... 4
Tokyo’s Top 16 ................. 6
What’s New .....................17
Need to Know ................ 18
Top Itineraries ...............20
If You Like .......................22
Month by Month ............ 25
With Kids ........................29
Like a Local ....................30
For Free .......................... 32
Eating .......................... 34Drinking & Nightlife ...44Entertainment ............ 48Shopping ..................... 50
Plan Your Trip page 1
Understand Tokyo 217
Survival Guide 251
Tokyo Maps 284
Plan Your Trip 4
Explore Tokyo 54
Transport .....................252
Directory A–Z ..............258
Language .....................265
Index .............................275
Tokyo Today ................. 218
History ......................... 220
Tokyo Pop ................... 230
Arts ...............................236
Architecture .................244
Onsen ........................... 247
Neighbourhoods at a Glance ..........................56Marunouchi (Tokyo Station) ..............58
Ginza & Tsukiji ...............66
Roppongi ........................ 78
Ebisu, Meguro & Around ............................92
Shibuya & Around ....... 103
Harajuku & Aoyama .....114
Shinjuku & West Tokyo .................. 127
Iidabashi & Northwest Tokyo ......... 139
Akihabara & Around .......................... 150
Ueno & Around ............ 156
Asakusa & Sumida River ............... 166
Odaiba & Tokyo Bay .... 179
Day Trips from Tokyo ..........................184
Sleeping .................... 203
FRA
NK
DE
IM / LO
NE
LY PLA
NE
T IMA
GES
©
GR
EG E
LMS
/ LON
ELY P
LAN
ET IM
AG
ES ©
OLIv
ER
ST
REW
E / LON
ELY P
LAN
ET IM
AG
ES ©
Left: Gusokku-style armour at Tokyo National Museum (p158)Above: The Nijū-bashi bridge at the Imperial Palace (p60)Right: Dining in Yūrakuchō Yakitori Alley (p72)
Iidabashi &Northwest
Tokyop139
Shinjuku &West Tokyo
p127
Ueno &Around
p156
Akihabara& Around
p150Marunouchi
(Tokyo Station)p58
Asakusa &Sumida River
p166
Roppongip78
Ginza &Tsukiji
p66
Ebisu, Meguro &Around
p92
Harajuku &Aoyama
p114Shibuya
& Aroundp103
Odaiba &Tokyo Bay
p179
FRA
NK
DE
IM / LO
NE
LY PLA
NE
T IMA
GES
©
Neighbourhoods at a Glance . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56
Marunouchi (Tokyo Station) . . . . . . 58Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .64Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . .65Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .65
Ginza & Tsukiji . . . . . . 66Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . . . 73Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . . 76Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76Sports & Activities . . . . . . . . 77
Roppongi . . . . . . . . . . . 78Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .80Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .83Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . . .85Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . .89Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .90Sports & Activities . . . . . . . . 91
Ebisu, Meguro & Around . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .94Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .98Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . .100Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . 101Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 101Sports & Activities . . . . . . . 102
Shibuya & Around . . 103Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .106Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .106Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . . 110Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . 111Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 112
Harajuku & Aoyama . .114Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .116Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 117Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 118Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . . 122Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . 123Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 123Sports & Activities . . . . . . . 126
Shinjuku & West Tokyo . . . . . . . . . 127Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 129Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 134Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . . 136Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . 137Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 138Sports & Activities . . . . . . . 138
Iidabashi & Northwest Tokyo . . . . 139Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .141Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 142Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 146Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . . 148Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . 148Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 149Sports & Activities . . . . . . . 149
Akihabara & Around . . . . . . . . . . . . 150Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 152Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 153Drinking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 154Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 154
Ueno & Around . . . . . 156Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 158Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 159Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 161Drinking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 161Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 161Sports & Activities . . . . . . . 165
Asakusa & Sumida River . . . . . . . 166Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 168Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 170Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 175Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . . 177Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . 177Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 177Sports & Activities . . . . . . . 178
Odaiba & Tokyo Bay . . . . . . . . . . 179Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 181Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 182Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . . 182
Day Trips from Tokyo . . . . . . . . . 184
Sleeping . . . . . . . . . . .203
Explore Tokyo
54
Imperial Palace Area ������� 60
Tsukiji Central Fish Market (Tsukiji Shijō) ������� 68
Shibuya Crossing ������������105
Meiji-jingū (Meiji Shrine) ��������������������116
Yasukuni-jinja (Yasukuni Shrine) ������������141
Tokyo National Museum (Tokyo Kokuritsu Hakubutsukan) ���������������158
Sensō-ji (Sensō Temple) ���������������168
Top SighTSTOKYO’S
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FUJIMI
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FUKUGAWA
BUNKYŌ-KU
ARAKAWA-KUKITA-KU
SHINAGAWA-KU
KIKUGAWA
KIYOSUMI
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MEJIRO
MITA
KACHIDOKI
AKASAKA
MEGUROARIAKE
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SHINJUKU
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JINNAN
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KUDANKITA
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Meiji-dōri
Aoyama-dōri
TokyoSkyTree
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ShibuyaCrossing
Sensō-jiTemple
Meiji-jingū
Ryōgoku Kokugikan
Sumō Stadium
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#6
#7
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Neighbourhoods at a Glance
56
284
CafeDrinking & Nightlife
Shopping
Entertainment
Eating
CampingSleeping
BuddhistCastleChristianHinduIslamicJewishMonumentMuseum/GalleryRuinWinery/VineyardZooOther Sight
BeachCanoeing/KayakingSkiingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Sports &Activities
Diving/Snorkelling
Tourist InformationPost Office
Border CrossingBus
CyclingFerryMetroMonorailParking
TaxiS-Bahn
Train/RailwayTramTube StationU-BahnOther Transport
Cable Car/Funicular
Airport
Walking TourDetour
Walking Tour
Path
Lane
Tertiary
Freeway
Primary
Steps
Plaza/Mall
PedestrianOverpass
Secondary
Unsealed Road
Tunnel
Tollway
Disputed
Regional/Suburb
Marine Park
Cliff
Wall
State/Province
InternationalCemetery(Christian)Cemetery (Other)Park/ForestSportsgroundSight (Building)Top Sight(Building)
Beach/Desert
Intermittent RiverSwamp/MangroveReefCanalWaterDry/Salt/Intermittent LakeGlacier
River/Creek
LighthouseLookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall
Hut/Shelter
Map Legend
AreasBoundaries
Hydrography
Geographic
Transport
Information
Drinking & Nightlife
Shopping
Entertainment
Eating
Sleeping
Sports & ActivitiesSights Routes
Tokyo Maps
285
1 1
1 1
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KUDANKITA
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KŌTŌ-KU
KŌTŌ-KU
SETAGAYA-KU
CHŪŌ-KU
FUKUGAWA
BUNKYŌ-KU
ARAKAWA-KU
EBISU-NISHI
KIOI-CHŌ
KURAMAE
SHINAGAWA-KU
MINAMI-AOYAMA
TAITŌ-KU
MARUYAMA-CHŌ
KOTOBUKIKOMAGATA
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SHIRAKAWA
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KIYOSUMI
HARAJUKU
JINGŪMAE
RYŌGOKU
AOMI
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MEJIRO
MITA
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AKASAKA
MEGURO
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KAMI-ŌSAKI
SHIMO-OCHIAI
SHIMBASHI
ARIAKE
TSUKIJI
GINZA
SHINJUKU
YUSHIMA
YOYOGI
SHŌTŌ
JINNAN
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SENDAGAYA
ASAKUSA
TAITŌ
NEGISHI
HONGŌ
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KABUKI-CHŌ
UENO
SENZOKU
SHIBUYAROPPONGI
MEGURO-KU
JIMBŌCHŌ
TORANOMON
TAKADANOBABA
MARUNOUCHI
NISHI-AZABU
DAIKANYAMA
AKIHABARA
IKEBUKURO
ODAIBA
TokyoBay
TokyoBay
Meguro-gawa
KoishikawaBotanicalGarden
Jingūgaien
ShizenKyōiku-en
Meiji-jingū-Gyoen
Kitanomaru-kōen
Ueno-kōen
0 2 km0 1 miles#e
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Ð"11
Ð"3
Ð"5
Ð"9
Ð"7
Ð"1
Ð"12
Ð"2
Ð"4
Ð"6
Ð"10
1 Marunouchi & Ginza (p286)
2 Roppongi (p288)
3 Ebisu & Daikanyama (p291)
4 Shibuya (p292)
5 Harajuku & Aoyama (p293)
6 Shinjuku (p294)
7 Ikebukuro (p296)
8 Akihabara (p298)
9 Iidabashi & Around (p299)
10 Ueno (p300)
11 Asakusa (p302)
12 Odaiba & Tokyo Bay Area (p303)
MAP INDEX
286
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Areanot opento public
AZABU-JŪBAN
ROPPONGI6-CHŌME
MOTO-AZABU
SHIBUYA-KU
MINAMI-AOYAMA
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‚To Blue NoteTokyo (330m)
‚
To Japanese Red Cross Medical Centre (250m)
ROPP
ON
GI
289
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SHIBADAIMON
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HIGASHI-AZABU
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KASUMIGASEKI
NAGATACHŌ
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0 400 m0 0.2 miles
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ROPPO
NGI
290
ROPPONGI Map on p288
æ Sights (p80) ý Entertainment (p89) 1 21_21 Design Sight ....................................C4 34 B-Flat.......................................................... E3 2 Fujifilm Square...........................................C4 35 Billboard Live.............................................C4 3 Hie-jinja ...................................................... F2 36 BuL-Let's ...................................................B6 4 Honda Welcome Plaza Aoyama...............B2 37 eleven.........................................................B6 5 Mori Art Museum.......................................C6 38 Kingyo ........................................................D5 6 Musée Tomo ............................................. G4 Lovenet .............................................(see 57) 7 National Art Center, Tokyo.......................B4 39 Muse...........................................................B6 8 National Diet Building ............................... G1 40 New Lex Tokyo..........................................D5 9 Nogi-jinja ....................................................C4 41 Pasela......................................................... E6 Sky Deck ............................................ (see 5) 42 Salsa Sudada............................................. C5 10 Sōgetsu Kaikan..........................................C2 43 STB 139......................................................D5 11 Suntory Museum of Art ............................C4 44 Suntory Hall............................................... F4 Tokyo City View ................................. (see 5) 45 Toho Cinemas Roppongi Hills..................C6 12 Tokyo Tower ............................................. G6 13 Zōjō-ji..........................................................G7 þ Shopping (p90)
46 Axis............................................................. E6 ú Eating (p83) 47 Blue & White.............................................. D7 14 Fukuzushi.................................................. D6 48 Don Quijote................................................D5 15 Gonpachi ....................................................B6 49 Japan Sword..............................................G4 16 Hainan Jeefan Shokudō........................... D6 Le Garage......................................... (see 46) Hayashi..............................................(see 18) Living Motif ...................................... (see 46) Honmura-An .................................... (see 57) Nuno................................................. (see 46) 17 Kobachi-ya .................................................E2 18 Lotus Palace ..............................................E2 Ø Sports & Activities (p91) 19 Moti.............................................................C5 50 Body Arts & Science International .......... C5 20 Ninja Akasaka .............................................E1 21 Nirvana New York......................................C4 ÿ Sleeping (p207) 22 R2 Supperclub...........................................D5 51 ANA Intercontinental Tokyo..................... F4 23 San La Kyo ................................................ D6 52 Asia Center of Japan................................. C3 24 Shabu-zen Roppongi................................. E5 53 B Roppongi ................................................D5 25 Suji's ...........................................................E6 54 Gran Cyber Cafe Bagus............................D6 26 Tofuya-Ukai................................................G7 55 Grand Hyatt Tokyo....................................C6
56 Hotel Avanshell Akasaka.......................... E3 û Drinking & Nightlife (p85) 57 Hotel Ibis....................................................D5 27 Agave..........................................................C5 58 Hotel Ōkura ...............................................G4 28 Craft Beer Market..................................... H4 59 Ritz-Carlton Tokyo....................................C4 29 Heartland ...................................................C6 60 Villa Fontaine Roppongi Annex................ E5 30 Mistral Bleu/Train Bar ..............................D5 31 Royal Garden Café ....................................A2 ï Information (p260) 32 SuperDeluxe ..............................................C6 61 Tokyo Medical & Surgical Clinic............... H7 33 These..........................................................B6
ROPP
ON
GI
291
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‚
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0 0.2 miles0 400 m#e
æ Sights (p94) ý Entertainment (p101) 1 Beer Museum Yebisu ................................D3 17 Liquid Room ...............................................C1 2 NADiff a/p/a/r/t.......................................D2 18 Unit............................................................. A2 3 Tokyo Metropolitan Museum of Photography ...........................................D3 þ Shopping (p101)
19 Daikanyama T-Site ....................................A1 ú Eating (p98) 20 Kamawanu..................................................A1 4 Afuri ............................................................C2 21 Koromon.....................................................A1 Bombay Bazar ................................. (see 22) 22 Okura ..........................................................A1 5 Chano-ma ..................................................A3 23 Unlimited by Limi Feu................................B1 6 Ebisu Yokochō ...........................................C2 7 Ippo.............................................................D2 Ø Sports & Activities (p102) 8 Ippūdō ........................................................ C1 24 Tokyo Rent a Bike ..................................... A4 9 Ouca ...........................................................C2 25 Yogajaya .................................................... B2 10 Sign.............................................................A2
ÿ Sleeping (p209) û Drinking & Nightlife (p100) 26 Hotel Excellent Ebisu ................................C2 11 Buri .............................................................C2 27 Westin Hotel Tokyo...................................D3 12 Ebisu 18-ban ..............................................B2 13 Ebisu Tachinomiya....................................C2 ï Information (p260) 14 Kinfolk Lounge...........................................A2 28 Tokyo British Clinic....................................B1 15 Nakame Takkyū Lounge ...........................A2 16 What the Dickens! .....................................C2
EBISU & DAIKANYAM
A
292
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æ Top Sights (p105) Bello Visto ............(see 33) 27 RagTag ...........................C1 Shibuya Crossing ......... C3 12 Pink Cow........................ D2 28 Ranking Ranqueen ....... C3
13 Stand S.......................... A2 29 Shibuya 109 .................. B3 æ Sights (p106) 30 Sister .............................B2 1 Hachikō Statue ............. C3 ý Entertainment (p111) 31 Tōkyū Hands ................. B2 2 Shibuya Hikarie............. C3 14 Bunkamura ................... A2 3 Toguri Museum of 15 Club Asia ....................... A3 ÿ Sleeping (p209) Art ............................... A2 16 Club Quattro ................. B2 32 Capsule & Sauna
17 Eurospace ..................... A3 Century.......................A4 ú Eating (p106) 18 Karaoke-kan.................. B2 33 Cerulean Tower 4 Kaikaya.......................... A4 19 Ruby Room ................... B3 Tōkyū Hotel ................B4 5 Mos Burger ................... B3 20 Shibuya O-East ............. A3 34 Excel Hotel Tōkyū......... B3 6 Nabezō .......................... B2 21 Shidax Village................ C2 35 Hotel Mets Shibuya ......C4 7 Sakana-tei ..................... A3 22 Uplink............................. A2 36 Manga Hiroba................ B3 8 Sushi-no-Midori............ B3 23 Womb ............................ A3 37 Shibuya City Hotel........ A3 9 Za Watami..................... B3 38 Shibuya Granbell
þ Shopping (p112) Hotel ...........................C4 û Drinking & Nightlife (p110) 24 Disk Union ..................... B2 39 Shibuya Tōkyū Inn........ C2 10 Aldgate .......................... B2 25 Loft................................. B2 11 Attic Room .................... B2 26 Parco ............................. B2
SHIB
UYA
293
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1
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‚
To AoyamaRei-en (200m)
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æ Top Sights (p116) 11 Maisen ........................... C3 28 Daiso..............................B2 Meiji-jingū.......................A1 12 Mominoki House........... C2 29 Dog................................. B2
13 Natural House............... C4 30 Fuji-Torii ........................B3 æ Sights (p117) 14 Pariya.............................C4 31 Gallery Kawano.............C3 1 Design Festa ................. C2 32 Issey Miyake..................C4 2 Nezu Museum............... D4 û Drinking & Nightlife (p122) KiddyLand ............ (see 17) 3 Spiral Market ................ C4 15 A to Z Café.....................D4 33 Laforet ...........................B3 4 Ukiyo-e Ōta Memorial 16 Harajuku Taproom ....... B2 34 Musubi...........................C2 Art Museum ............... B2 17 Montoak ........................ B3 35 Oriental Bazaar............. B3 5 Watari Museum of 18 Two Rooms ................... C4 36 Pass the Baton.............. B3 Contemporary 37 Rin ..................................C4 Art ............................... C2 ý Entertainment (p123) 38 Takenoko....................... B2
19 Crocodile ....................... B3 39 UT Store Harajuku........ B3 ú Eating (p118) 40 Yohji Yamamoto ...........D4 6 Agaru Sagaru Nishi Iru þ Shopping (p123) Higashi Iru .................. C2 20 6% Doki Doki ................ B3 Ø Sports & Activities (p126) 7 Harajuku Gyōza Rō....... B3 21 AssistOn ........................ B3 41 Ohara School of 8 Honoji ............................ B3 22 Bape Exclusive..............D4 Ikebana .......................C4 Kinokuniya 23 Beams Shops................ C2 International 24 Chicago Thrift Store..... B3 ï Information (p117) Supermarket..... (see 18) 25 Closet Child................... B2 42 The Terminal................. B2 9 Kyūsyū Jangara ............ B2 26 Commes des Garçons.. D4 43 Wired Café 360............. B2 10 Las Chicas..................... C4 27 Condomania.................. B3
HARAJUKU & AOYAMA
294
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23 Sakura Hotel Jimbōchō ............................A3 û Drinking & Nightlife (p154) 12 @Home Café..............................................C2 Boo ....................................................(see 14) 13 Milonga Nueva ...........................................A3
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16 La Qua........................................................ D1 ú Eating (p146) 8 Canal Café..................................................B2 ÿ Sleeping (p212) 9 Kado ........................................................... B1 17 Tokyo Central Youth Hostel..................... B2 10 Kururi..........................................................B2
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ODAIBA & TO
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Timothy Hornyak Coordinating author, Marunouchi (Tokyo Station), Ginza & Tsukiji, Roppongi, Iidabashi & Northwest Tokyo, Akihabara & Around, Ueno & Around, Asakusa & Sumida River A native of Montreal, Tim moved to Japan in 1999 after watching Kurosawa’s Ran too many times. Since then, he has writ-ten on Japanese culture, technology and history for titles including CNET News, Scientific American and the New York Times. He has played bass in a rock band
in Tokyo, spoken about Japanese robots at the Kennedy Center in Washington, and travelled to the heart of Hokkaidō to fi nd the remains of a forgotten theme park called Canadian World. As the author of Loving the Machine: The Art and Science of Japanese Robots, his favourite robot is Astro Boy, but he fi rmly believes that the greatest Japanese invention of all time is the onsen (hot springs). Tim also wrote the Welcome to Tokyo, Top Itineraries, If You Like, Tokyo Pop, Drinking & Nightlife, Entertainment, Tokyo Today, History, Architecture, Sleeping, Transport and Directory A–Z sections.
Rebecca Milner Ebisu, Meguro & Around, Shibuya & Around, Harajuku & Aoyama, Shinjuku & West Tokyo, Odaiba & Tokyo Bay, Day Trips from Tokyo Rebecca came to Tokyo from California for ‘just one year’ that turned into 10. She studied at Keio University and now works as a freelance writer, covering Japan for over-seas publications and interpreting American culture for Japanese publications. Rebecca also wrote the What’s New, Need to Know, Month by Month, With Kids,
Like a Local, For Free, Eating, Shopping, Arts and On-sen sections.
Read more about Rebecca at:lonelyplanet.com/members/rebeccamilner
Our Writers
Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason-able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi-mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.
Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty LtdABN 36 005 607 9839th edition – August 2012ISBN 978 1 74220 040 8© Lonely Planet 2012 Photographs © as indicated 201210 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in ChinaAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.
Our StoryA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their fi rst travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.
Today, Lonely Planet has offi ces in Melbourne, London and Oakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.
Day Two Asakusa & Sumida River (p 166 )
M Take the subway to the old-world district of Asakusa. Stroll through
up Nakamise-dōri to the great temple of Sensō-ji. Wander the streets and shopping arcades around the temple and browse tradi-tional crafts shops.
R Hop on a train to the Tokyo Sky Tree, the tallest tower in the world
at 634m (see if you can stomach the top-deck glass corridor). Get on the subway to Ryōgoku to catch a bout of sumō wrestling (check bouts are being held beforehand). If not, take in the Edo-Tokyo Museum, and lean about the rich past of the shōgun’s city.
N If you have the slightest liking for beer, hot-foot it to nearby Popeye.
This delightful bar has the world’s largest selection of Japanese beers, as well as a great happy-hour deal with free plates of food (if you can stomach more eating). If it’s before 5pm, return to Asakusa and catch a Tokyo Cruise ferry down the Sumida River to Hi-node pier, and the nearby Hamamatsuchō station on the JR Yamanote Line.
Lunch Sometarō (p 175 ) serves tasty okonomiyaki (fi lled grilled crêpes).
Dinner Tomoegata (p 177 ) dishes out hearty, sumō-sized chankonabe stew.
Day One Harajuku & Aoyama (p 114 )
M Start the day in Harajuku with a visit to Meiji-jingū, Tokyo’s most famous
Shintō shrine. If you get there by 8am you can catch the morning ritual, complete with taiko drumming. Next stroll down Takeshita-dōri, notorious for its wild teen fashions. If you skipped breakfast, treat yourself to a gooey, sweet crêpe – Harajuku’s offi cial street food.
R Take a detour to the Ukiyo-e Ōta Memorial Art Museum for a look
at works by some of the masters of the medium. Then head down Omote-sandō to gawk at the architectural wonders of some of Japan’s leading contemporary designers. Allow yourself an hour to explore the antiqu-ities galleries and woodsy grounds of the Nezu Museum.
N If the timing’s right, you can catch a game at Jingū Baseball Stadium
or a performance of traditional nō at the Kokuritsu Nō-gakudō. Otherwise make a beeline for swanky expat hangout Two Rooms in Aoyama to drink up the night views from the terrace.
Lunch Honoji (p 118 ) is a local favourite for its sakana teishoku (fi sh set) lunch.
Dinner For perfect tonkatsu head to Maisen (p 122 ), in an old bathhouse.
Top Itineraries
20
Day Four Ginza & Tsukiji (p 66 )
M Drag yourself out of bed at 4am and cab it to Tsukiji Central Fish
Market. If you’re lucky, you’ll be one of the 120 people admitted to the tuna auc-tions from 5am, but if not the rest of the market is still worthwhile, especially the kitchenware shops in the Outer Market. Don’t forget to have a sushi breakfast right on the premises. The unique shops and galleries of Ginza can keep you going until midday.
Marunouchi (Tokyo Station; p 58 )
R Take the subway to Ōtemachi and walk to the Imperial Palace East
Garden, where you can see the remains of the old castle of the shōgun. If you have the energy, walk through Kitanomaru-kōen on the north side of the Imperial Palace to Yasukuni-jinja shrine. Explore its con-troversial Yūshūkan war museum and fantastic military hardware.
Roppongi (p 78 )
N Complete your visit to Tokyo by jumping on the subway and rais-
ing a glass (or a couple of dozen) in Rop-pongi. There are bars for every budget, but you could do worse than cocktails at the swanky R2 Supperclub or book-ish These. Don’t forget to say kampai! (cheers!) to Tokyo Tower in the distance when you call it a night.
Lunch Yabaton (p 72 ) rewards with miso-katsu (pork cutlets in miso).
Dinner You won’t fi nd a better bowl of rāmen than at Kururi (p 146 ).
Day Three Shinjuku & West Tokyo (p 127 )
M Head west to Mitaka to visit the fan-tastical Ghibli Museum (book your
tickets early!). Instead of returning to Mi-taka Station, stroll through Inokashira-kōen to Kichijōji Station. Don’t miss the shrine in the park to Benzaiten, the jealous sea goddess.
R Back in Shinjuku, check out the futuristic Tokyo Metropolitan
Government Offi ces, including the view from the 202m-high observatories (free!). Wander among the skyscrapers all the way down to Tokyo Opera City, to visit the galleries there. Or head to the east side, to the beautifully landscaped Shinjuku-gyoen, stopping at a depachika (depart-ment store food fl oor) for picnic goodies along the way.
N Stop by for a few skewers of yakitori and old-time ambiance in Omoide-
yokochō, then plunge yourself into the neon fl ashing lights of Kabukichō. Make your way to the narrow lanes and wooden shanties of Golden Gai, a late-night drinking haunt for artists and writers. If you’re looking for something more upbeat, head to Shinjuku-nichōme, the country’s largest gay and lesbian neighbourhood, with hundreds of tiny bars and dance clubs.
Lunch Pepa Cafe Forest (p 136 ) has toothsome Thai and park views.
Dinner Queue up for divine rāmen at Nagi (p 134 ) in Golden Gai.
21PLAN
YOUR TRIP TO
P IT
INER
AR
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