Tiles BS 5385

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• BS 5385-1: Code of Practice for the design and installation of

internal ceramic and natural stone wall tiling and mosaics in

normal conditions.


external ceramic wall tiling and mosaics (including terracotta and

faience tiles).


ceramic floor tiles and mosaics.

• BS 5385-4: Code of Practice for tiling and mosaics in specific

conditions.

Installation

Information in this section is based on the

recommendations given in the following

Codes of Practice:

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General

Handling and storage

Ston-Ker tile ranges are rectified tiles. They therefore require careful

handling and storage on site, to avoid nipped edges, chipping etc.

Tools

Choosing the correct tools to carry out proper installation of the tiles

is essential – a notched trowel, a rubber mallet for tapping pieces into

place and a rubber trowel for grouting.

SubstratesThe substrate (wall or floor) to be tiled must be perfectly level, with

no defects in planarity. BS 5385 recommends that “local variations in

level for a nominally flat floor should be such that, when checked with

a 2 m straightedge, any gap under the straightedge between points of

contact does not exceed 3 mm.”

Porcelanosa recommends that damp areas be waterproofed

beforehand.


terrazzo tile and slab, natural stone and composition block floorings.

• BS EN 13888: Grouts for tiles. Definitions and specifications.

In addition, the general principles of BS 8000: Part 11, Code of Practice

for wall and floor tiling should be followed.

The surface to be tiled must be completely free of dust, loose areas,

significant cracks or any other substance that could detrimentally

affect proper tile adhesion.

If falls are required in the finish these should be incorporated in the

substrate and not in the bedding system.

Substrate drying times

Before beginning tiling, it is important to ensure that the background

or base has been allowed to cure properly. This effectively means

drying out by exposure to air for a minimum period (a summarised list

is given below).

Substrate Minimum curing period

Concrete walls 6 weeks

Brick/blockwork walls 6 weeks

Rendered walls 2 weeks

Rapid drying rendered walls 4 weeks

Gypsum plaster walls 4 weeks

Concrete base floors 6 weeks

Screeded (non-modified) floors 3 weeks

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Floors

General preparation

Before commencing any work ensure that the background/base is:

• Sufficiently flat

• Suitable for the intended service conditions

• Sufficiently strong and rigid to support the tile finish

• Free from any contamination

• Clean

• Dry

Cement: sand screeds

• For new screeds: Allow a minimum 3 weeks drying time.

• For exiting screeds: Cut out all loose or hollow portions and make

good with a 1:3 cement: sand mortar applied over a slurry bonding

coat*

• Remove any unsound adhesive residues without damaging the base.

* Slurry bonding coat:2:1 Portland cement: Butech universal agent by weight.

Asphalt bases

• The mastic asphalt should be sound, with a natural float finish and

laid on a firm rigid base.

• The asphalt should be of flooring grade.

• The surface should be sufficiently regular to suit bedding depths

of adhesive,

• Remove any surface contaminants.

Ceramic/Quarry tile/Terrazzo/Natural stone bases

• Existing finish should be securely bonded to their base and must

be in sound, clean condition.

• Any loose tiles should be removed and made good with a 1:3

cement: sand mortar applied over a slurry bonding coat*.

* Slurry bonding coat 2:1 Portland cement: butech UNIVERSALBONDING AGENT by weight

Vinyl tile/sheet bases

• Existing vinyl tiles/sheets should be securely bonded to their base

and must be in sound, clean condition.

• Any loose tiles should be removed and made good with a levelling

compound.

Concrete bases

• Allow a minimum 6 weeks drying time

Wood overlaid tongue and groove floorboards

• Existing floorboards must be dry, securely screw fixed and acceptably

level.

• Prior to fixing, seal the reverse side and edges of the plywood

(WBP or marine grade at minimum 15mm thick) with Butech

universal bonding agent.

• Lay sheets with cross joints staggered at a 0.5-1mm gap between

boards.

• Screw down sheets at 300mm centres ensuring screw heads flush

with surface.Walls

Tongue & Groove floorboards

• The boards must be dry, securely fixed and rigid without protruding

fixings.

• Boards must be screwed down to the supporting joists at 300mm

centres.

• Seal board surface with two coats of Butech UNIVERSAL BONDING

AGENT.

• Allow each coat to dry.

Tiling onto heated screeds

• Allow a minimum 3 weeks drying time for Portland cement.

• The screed should be heated at a maximum 50°C per day to 250°C

and maintained for 3 days before cooling down to room temperature.

• The heating system should be turned off 24 hours before tiling,

or turned down to below 150°C in cold weather.

• The floor can be grouted 8 days after tiling and after a further 6 days

can be heated up to the operating temperature at a maximum 50°C

per day.

Tiling to under tile heating system onto cement: sand screeds

• The base must be sufficiently strong and rigid to support the tile

finish and free from contamination.

• Allow a minimum 6 weeks drying time for new concrete and 3 weeks

for new cement:sand screeds.

• Prime highly absorbent cement: sand screeds with 2 coats of Butech

universal bonding diluted with1:1 water.

• Level floors where necessary.

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Concrete bases

Butech tixocem

Butech 2-12 colorstuk

Concrete base

Butech tixocem


Cement:sand screed

Slurry bonding coat

Concrete base

Wood overlaid tongue and groove floorboards

Butech tile to wood


®

Butech Super-one


Tiling to under tile heating system onto cement: sand screeds

Tiling onto heated screeds

Butech one-flex

Floor leveller

Matting


Cement:sandscreed

Concrete base


Butech one-flex

Cement:sand screed

Tongue and groove floorboards

Butech tile to wood

Butech universal bonding agent


Cement:sand screeds

Asphalt bases

Vinyl tile/sheet bases


Butech Super-one

Butech universal

Ceramic/quarry tile/terrazzo/natural stone bases


Butech Super-one

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Walls

General preparation

Before commencing any work ensure that the background/base is:

• Sufficiently flat

• Suitable for the intended service conditions

• Sufficiently strong and rigid to support the tile finish

• Free from any contamination

• Clean

• Dry

Gypsum plaster

• Allow a minimum 4 week drying time for new plaster.

• The finish coat must be free from contaminants.

• Any defective areas should be made good.

• Plaster with a polished surface should be brushed with a stiff bristle

brush and primed with a mixture of 1:4 Butech universal bonding

agent: water.

• The weight of the tiling should not exceed 20kg/m2.

Gypsum plasterboard

• Boards must be dry, securely fixed and rigid with no protruding

fixings.

• The weight of tiling should not exceed 32kg/m2

.

Cement: sand rendering

• Allow a minimum 2 week drying time for new rendering

(3 weeks for swimming pools)

Glazed tiles/bricks

• Existing tiles/bricks should be securely bonded to their bed and

must be in sound, clean condition.

• Any loose tiles should be removed and made good with 1:3 cement:

sand mortar, applied over a slurry bonding coat (2:1 cement: Butech

universal bonding agent)

Plywood

• Sheets must be dry, securely fixed and rigid-screwed to a seasoned

timber framework at 300mm centres.

• Use moisture resistant or exterior grade boards.

• Seal the reverse side, edges and the surfaces to be tiled, with Butech

universal bonding agent

Butech tixocem


Plaster

Rigidframework


Butech BT-1000

Gypsum plaster Gypsum plasterboard

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Butech one-flex

Cement:sand rendering

Slurry bonding coat


Butech BT-3000

Cement:sand rendering Glazed tiles/bricks


Rigid framework

Plywood

Butech BT-3000


Butech BT-1000

Plywood Painted walls

Painted walls

• Ensure that the paint is in a sound condition.

• Check by applying some carpet tape to the painted surface. Leave for 10 minutes before tearing off. If paint is removed with the tape,

remove all areas of unsound paint by mechanical means.

• Do not use paint strippers.

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Backgrounds and bases

A cement-sand render or screed substrate is generally recommended

for backgrounds and bases in which deviations from a true flat surface

are to be expected and which may be too much to accommodate within

the thickness of the bedding material. The more accurate surfaces that

can be provided by such substrates permit the use of adhesive bedding,

which has many advantages over traditional mortar bedding. Mosaics

generally require flatness but not a high degree of dimensional

accuracy; tiling requires both. The visual success of tiling depends

on constant tile and joint sizes. .

Although internal wall tiling can be successfully applied to plaster or

plasterboard surfaces, cement: sand rendering provides a stronger

background and is preferred. For advice on mix proportions and

thickness of rendering see BS 5385-1 clause 3.3, BS 5385-2 clause

19 and NBS Section M20. For screeds see BS 5385-3 Appendix C,

BS 8204-1 and NBS Sections M10 and M13.

Proprietary intermediate substrates – tilebacker boards and matting

The use of intermediate substrates between backgrounds/bases and

tiles is widespread in continental Europe and North America. In recent

years products have been introduced in the UK, some of which have

British Board of Agrement (BBA) certification. Two basic types of

product are available, tilebacker boards and mattings.

Tilebacker boards have rigid cores (usually extruded polystyrene,

or less frequently, cementitious material) and are faced with

mortar/adhesive tolerant material reinforced with glass fibre mesh.

All types of board provide a durable, flat and stable backing for tiling

and are suitable for fixing boards to walls and floors.

Matting made from polyethylene with an underside bonding fleece

provides a layer that accommodates background/base movement

without affecting tiles and bedding. Installed with sealed joints it can

provide a waterproof layer for applications not exposed to constant

water pressure. Matting can prepare new concrete or screed bases for

tiling once they can accept foot traffic. However, adhesives suitable

for bonding matting to green concrete and screed are very limited,

with most negating the time saving aspects of the product by requiring

curing and drying of the base in accordance with BS 8204-1. Once

installed air channels on the underside of the matting allow the base

to continue drying. Matting can also be used on timber boarded

suspended floors. It is essential to consult the matting and adhesive

manufacturers to determine the correct base preparation, adhesive

and jointing specification.

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B u t e c h P r o - d i l a t a m o v e m e n t j o i n t s

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Movement joints

BS 5385-3 clauses 19 and 23.6 give advice on the location and design

of movement joints in floors. In brief, joints will normally be positioned

in the following locations:

• Over structural movement joints.

• Around the perimeter of floors and where floor tiling abuts fixed

machinery and structural fixtures such as columns, steps etc.

• Where tiling abuts other materials.

• Where tiling is continuous across junctions of different base

materials.

• At 30 m intervals in large floors with stress relieving joints at

10 m intervals or 6 m intervals externally.

• Over supporting walls and beams.

Over structural movement joints

Where the base substrate incorporates its own movement joints,

structural joints should also be included between tiles, that coincide

with the structural joints in the substrate. These joints should extend

through the tile thickness, bed and screed (if there is one) through to

the substrate. Minimum width should be at least that of the structural

joints of the substrate (and at least 6 mm).

Structural joints are usually finished by filling them with materials that

have long-lasting elasticity (plastic or metal corner beads or profile

sections, mastics, exterior fish plates, etc.).

Perimeter joints and abutments to walls

Perimeter joints should be incorporated at the edges of the horizontal

surface to be tiled where it meets with walls, columns, fixed machinery,

steps and curbs that may be left untiled. This is to prevent floor tiles

and adhesives from coming into contact with these other elements,

reducing the possibility of stress from building up. Perimeter joints are

also necessary in areas where the ceramic covering is applied to two

different adjoining substrates, changes in plane and where tiling abuts

other materials.

Lack of, or inadequate provision for, perimeter joints is one of the most

frequent causes of failure of tiled floor surfaces.

Perimeter joints should be continuous and their width should not be

less than 6 mm. They can be rendered with a compressible material

such as cellular polystyrene or grouted with silicone. They can be

hidden by skirting. These joints should reach down to the substrate,

except if this is covered with a stable, well-hardened material, such

as plaster or gypsum.

Intermediate expansion (stress relieving) joints

Large areas to be tiled should be subdivided during tile installation into

smaller areas delimited by intermediate expansion joints.

The maximum recommended surface area to be tiled without

intermediate expansion joints is 50 m2 to 70 m2 in interior applications

(half this surface area for exterior applications), or else a maximum

interval of 30 metres.

The number of joints should be greater on those surfaces expected to

experience significant temperature variations or vibrations. On

suspended floors additional joints should be provided over supporting

walls and beams.

For floors subject to heavy foot traffic or hard-wheeled traffic, the

position of joints should try to avoid where this traffic crosses, if

possible; if this is not possible, profile sections with edges protected by

metal should be specified. These partitions or joints should cut through

the ceramic covering, the adhesive and the mortar bedding, and their

width should be a minimum of 5 mm.

Installation joints

This is the gap between all contiguous tiles, either for functional

or aesthetic reasons.

They are necessary for the following reasons:

1. They can absorb any deformation produced by the substrate.

2. They compensate for slight dimensional deviations in tile

manufacture.

Note: Joints less than 1.5 mm are not recommended.

When tile installation is carried out using spacers (crosspieces)

between tiles, enough time should be allowed for the adhesive

to set before tiles can be walked on in order to be able to remove

these spacers. The next step after this is to grout all joints.

Selection of bedding, adhesive and grouting materials

Choice of bedding system will depend on the following factors:

1. Location e.g. interior or exterior; wall or floor.

2. The proposed use of the finished area, e.g. wet or dry; domestic,

commercial or industrial.

3. The type of background or base e.g. rendered, plasterboarded,

screeded.

4. The type of tile selected, e.g. high or low water absorption.

Porcelanosa recommends: Butech

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Tiling walls – setting out

As a general rule, tiling should be set out from the centre of the wall.

This means there are two options:

1. either the centre of the tile in the centre of the wall, or

2. the centre joint between the two tiles positioned either side of the

centre line.

A measuring gauge will help you plan the position of your tiles.

To make the measuring gauge, take a length of timber and mark the

width of your tiles including the spacers along it.

Check each option to see which gives the most advantageous cuts to

the ends at each side of the wall, the window and the border design.

Fixing battens will help you to keep the tiling straight.

Find the lowest point you are tiling to, e.g. a skirting board, position

the nearest full tile at this point, mark above the tile and, using a spiritlevel, draw a level line.

Nail a batten to the wall below the line to work to. Ensure that the

batten is level because your first row of tiles will rest on it.

Draw your centre line as a start point with the help of a spirit level to

check the vertical line is straight. Either fix a vertical batten as a guide

or use your pencil line to tile up to.

Start your tiling where the two vertical and horizontal lines meet, in the

centre point chosen on your wall.

Starting tiling

To spread the adhesive, hold your trowel at a 45° angle. Apply the

adhesive to form straight ribs. Apply an area of adhesive to cover

several tiles but no more than you will be able to tile within 20 minutes.

Press the tiles firmly and evenly into the adhesive using a twisting/

sliding action ensuring that the adhesive forms a strong bond to the

back of the tile.

Place a spacer between each tile, this allows an even gap for the grout

to be applied later.

Work sideways and upwards to complete fixing all the whole tiles.

Whilst tiling, check with a spirit level that the tile surface is flat.

Clean off any surplus adhesive which has formed on the surface of the

tile with a damp sponge and remove any surplus from the grout joints.

If the adhesive forms a skin before you have managed to place a tile,

take off the adhesive and replace with new.

Remove any guide battens and spacers carefully after 12 hours.

Use a tile trim to give a neat finish at tile edges and corners. Tile trim

is available in various thicknesses and is bedded into the tile adhesive.

Cutting tiles

You are now ready to tile the areas requiring cut tiles.

To cut a tile, mark the front of the tile and score the glazed side of the

tile to break the glaze, using a tile scriber and a rule or use a thin rail

cutter. Tile nippers, and saws can be used to cut corners or curves out

of tiles.

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Floor tiling

BS 5385-3 deals with the laying of ceramic tiles and mosaics, bedded

on concrete, cement: sand screeds, timber, asphalt and existing floor

finishes. Table 3 of the standard gives a summary of recommended

bedding techniques for different base and traffic conditions. Please

check with Porcelanosa before final selection of bedding material.

Also refer to BS 5385-4 for floor tiling in specific conditions

(e.g. wet, sterile, chemical attack).

Installation

The installation of ceramic tiles using the traditional thick-bed method

with mortars remains popular throughout Europe, mainly down to

traditional customs and habits. However, this system does not always

offer the necessary quality guarantees. The recent use of special

adhesives has stimulated a gradual shift to the thin-bed installation

method, which offers clear advantages over the thick-bed method,particularly where adherence and durability are concerned.

Adherence – the strength of the bond between the ceramic piece and

the substrate – plays an extremely important role in the quality of tiled

walls and floors. Proper adherence should ensure that pieces are firmly

attached to the substrate.

Durability entails the maintenance of proper adherence over time.

The thin-bed installation method must be used, with a flexible

adhesive. The use of cement glue will prevent the many problems that

may arise using thick-bed installation with traditional mortar.

When porcelain tiles are being installed, bonding materials specifically

designed for use with this material should be used.

The use of proper wedges and spacers will ensure proper piece

alignment.

Grouting

Before grouting, ensure that the joints (between tile and tile) are empty

and free of bonding materials and traces of dirt and grime. Joints should

be grouted once tiles are fully bonded to the substrate, after the time

necessary for this to happen has elapsed (before grouting, the adhesiveused for installing tiles should already

be dry, to avoid efflorescence forming, which will have a negative

effect on the appearance of joints).

The grouting material should be applied with a rubber trowel.

Grouting materials may be coloured using the proper pigments,

so as to achieve a uniformity in colour of the tiled surface.

Removing excess grouting material should be performed using a

sponge dampened in water. This operation should be done in timely

fashion, since if the grouting material is left on the glazed surface

of tiles for too long, this could cause removal isses.

The use of cleaning agents that contain hydrofluoric acid (HF) shouldbe avoided.

It is absolutely necessary that finished ceramic tile installations be

protected with the proper means so as to prevent possible damages

until the building project is complete, given the high likelihood that

abrasive materials will be present and tools will constantly be moved

back and forth, and the subsequent risk that this implies.

Surface treatments

BS 5385 recommends in general that surface treatment should be

avoided.

BS 5385 recognises that proprietary temporary sealers facilitate

cleaning off ceramic tiles after laying and grouting. These sealers

can be readily removed, but must be used in accordance with the

manufacturer’s instructions. The application of any sealant, is likely to

reduce slip resistance.

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