1 The UK Fashion and Textiles Association compendium of UK textiles and apparel manufacturing data
1
The UK Fashion and Textiles Association
compendium of
UK textiles and apparel manufacturing data
2
Contents Introduction ................................................................................................................................ 4
Part One: Prospects for 2017 ........................................................................................................ 5
Prospects ............................................................................................................................................. 5
Retail sales .......................................................................................................................................... 5
Monthly Total Production Value ......................................................................................................... 6
Index of Production............................................................................................................................. 6
Producer prices ................................................................................................................................... 7
Exports ................................................................................................................................................ 8
Imports ................................................................................................................................................ 9
Part Two: Annual Review of the Sector in 2016 ........................................................................... 10
Consumer Price Index ............................................................................................................. 10
Consumer Price Index by Clothing and Footwear grouping ......................................................... 10
Retail Price Index........................................................................................................................... 11
Retail Price Index by Clothing and Footwear Grouping ................................................................ 12
Retail Sales Index .......................................................................................................................... 13
Retail Sales Index by Fashion and Textiles grouping ..................................................................... 13
UK Consumer Spending .......................................................................................................... 14
UK Consumer Spending by Fashion and Textiles component ...................................................... 15
Internet Sales ................................................................................................................................ 15
Use of the Internet to Purchase Fashion Goods Online ............................................................... 16
Enterprises and employment .................................................................................................. 17
Business Numbers ......................................................................................................................... 17
Size of businesses .......................................................................................................................... 18
Location of fashion and textiles businesses .................................................................................. 19
Business Registrations ............................................................................................................ 20
Employment .......................................................................................................................... 21
Labour Force Survey...................................................................................................................... 21
Self-employment ........................................................................................................................... 21
Location of employment ............................................................................................................... 22
Fashion and Textiles Vacancies ..................................................................................................... 23
Drapers .......................................................................................................................................... 23
Fashion United .............................................................................................................................. 24
Productivity ........................................................................................................................... 25
3
Total Production Value ................................................................................................................. 25
Gross Value Added ........................................................................................................................ 26
Index of Production ....................................................................................................................... 27
Producer Prices ............................................................................................................................. 27
Output per job .............................................................................................................................. 28
Business Investment .................................................................................................................. 29
Investment ........................................................................................................................................ 29
Research and Development .............................................................................................................. 29
Exports and Imports ................................................................................................................... 31
Exports .............................................................................................................................................. 31
Exports by global region.................................................................................................................... 31
Exports by global region 2015 vs 2016 ............................................................................................. 32
Exports by top 20 individual countries ............................................................................................. 33
Imports .............................................................................................................................................. 34
Imports by global region ................................................................................................................... 34
Imports by global region 2015 vs 2016 ............................................................................................. 35
Imports by top 20 individual countries ............................................................................................. 36
4
Introduction
The following paper is designed to collate key information and indicators on the position of UK
textile and apparel manufacturing using statistics collected from a variety of official sources.
The paper is split into two parts.
The first part assesses sectoral performance early in 2017 and the possible outlook for industry
future performance for the rest of the year.
The second part of the document is a review of sectoral performance up to the end of 2016 (or 2015
depending on the availability of the data source being used). This looks at industry performance
across a range of metrics and contextualised against wider economic and industry trends.
Where possible, data is presented for textile and apparel manufacturing only. It therefore excludes
leather and accessories which are usually included as part of the wider definition of the fashion and
textiles manufacturing footprint.
It also excludes the wider definition of the sector as presented by the British Fashion Council which
includes retail, wholesale and other associated functions within the industry that has put the value
of fashion to the UK at £28 billion, employing 880,000 people
In some instances, information for textiles, clothing and leather manufacturing is used where
specific textiles and apparel only information is not available. This is indicated in the citations.
5
Part One: Prospects for 2017
On a number of indicators, 2017 has started well for fashion and textiles manufacturers and
continues the longer term trend of growth within the sector that has been apparent in recent years.
2016 was an interesting year for the fashion and textiles sector with a number of events such as the
introduction of the national living wage; the result of the EU referendum and subsequent lowering
of the value of sterling, impacting both import and export values; and the continued turmoil on the
high-street all considerations amongst a number of variables.
Prospects
Retail sales
Retail sales of textiles, clothing and footwear goods in specific stores began the year in positive
fashion with the index rising in January and February 2017 and stabilising in March. This is in
contrast to wider non-food store sales that saw a small fall in January and large declines in March.
Value and volume of sales in textiles, clothing and footwear stores also remain higher in the index
than they did in the corresponding months of 2016.
Figure 1: UK Retail Sales Index for textiles, clothing and footwear. Current prices 2013 = 100
Source: Office for National Statistics
90
95
100
105
110
115
120
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec Jan Feb Mar
2016 2017
Value Textile, clothing and footwear stores Value Predominantly non-food stores
Volume Textile, clothing and footwear stores Volume Predominantly non-food stores
6
Monthly Total Production Value
Data from the ONS’s monthly Turnover and Orders in Production and Services Industries (TOPSI)
survey1 further demonstrates growth within the sector over the first quarter of 2017. Having dipped
in December 2016 as per the pattern usually observed during the Christmas period, the production
value gains in January and February and particularly March have been encouraging. Indeed, March’s
figures show both textiles and apparel turnover and orders in production figures well above the
corresponding month in 2016.
Figure 2: Turnover and Orders in Production and Services Industries Survey (£m)
Source: Office for National Statistics
Index of Production
The latest Index of Production for textiles and apparel manufacturing also paint a positive picture
with both textiles and apparel making significant gains since November. Whilst both measures
remain below the all manufacturing benchmark, both textiles and apparel have made significant
improvements to again approach parity.
1 The TOPSI offers a monthly snapshot of turnover. This is in contrast to the Annual Business Survey which is a more comprehensive survey of business activity on an annual basis and based on a separate sample. Therefore the figures in the TOPSI are indicative only.
£371.9£386.1£421.7£404.7£392.9£413.6£422.5£427.4£473.6£465.7£495.0£397.8£420.0£462.8£540.1
£225.2£228.2£227.6£242.4£209.7£255.1£251.7£269.5
£285.6£248.1£240.4
£207.6£219.9£224.1
£280.8
£0
£100
£200
£300
£400
£500
£600
£700
£800
£900
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec Jan Feb Mar
2016 2017
Manufacture of textiles Manufacture of wearing apparel
7
Figure 3: Index of Production (2013 = 100)
Source: Office for National Statistics
Producer prices
2017 has seen increases in production costs for both textiles and wearing apparel manufacturers.
The increase has been more pronounced for textiles manufacturers who have seen costs increase by
two and a half points on the index.
Figure 4: Producer Prices (2010 = 100)
Source: Office for National Statistics
80
85
90
95
100
105
110
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec Jan Feb Mar
2016 2017
Textiles Wearing Apparel All Manufacturing
108
109
110
111
112
113
114
115
116
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec Jan Feb Mar
2016 2017
Textiles Apparel
8
Exports
UK exports of textiles have enjoyed a successful start to 2017, with the value of exports in March
2017 being higher than in any month of 2016. Both European and non-EU exports recorded
increases.
Apparel exports are also above the levels seen in the corresponding months of 2016. European
markets have been particularly buoyant, compensating for the small fall in non-EU market exports.
Figure 5: Textiles Exports from the UK
Source: HMRC
Figure 6: Apparel Exports from the UK
Source: HMRC
£156 £164 £173 £165 £159 £168 £157 £146 £172 £163 £173£133
£173 £174 £189
£56 £71 £77 £77 £76 £72 £77 £75£73 £83 £77
£81£58 £71
£84
£0
£50
£100
£150
£200
£250
£300
Jan
uar
y
Feb
ruar
y
Mar
ch
Ap
ril
May
Jun
e
July
Au
gust
Sep
tem
be
r
Oct
ob
er
No
vem
be
r
De
cem
ber
Jan
uar
y
Feb
ruar
y
Mar
ch
2016 2017
£m
EU Non-EU
£371 £370 £369 £339 £360 £385 £389 £416 £444 £471 £468 £397 £436 £413 £471
£124 £129 £139 £139 £100 £100 £121 £118 £122 £122 £125£129 £106 £107
£123
£0
£100
£200
£300
£400
£500
£600
£700
Jan
uar
y
Feb
ruar
y
Mar
ch
Ap
ril
May
Jun
e
July
Au
gust
Sep
tem
be
r
Oct
ob
er
No
vem
be
r
De
cem
ber
Jan
uar
y
Feb
ruar
y
Mar
ch
2016 2017
£m
EU Non-EU
9
Imports
Import figures for the first two months of 2017 show an interesting pattern with fluctuating demand
although this is on a quarterly basis consistent with 2016s figures and demonstrates an increase in
imports for textiles over January, February and March 2017. It is a similar pattern for apparel too
with imports over the quarter also higher in value but with fluctuating demand. In both cases,
February’s import total was below the comparison figure for 2017.
Figure 7: Textiles imports into the UK
Source: HMRC (based on SITC 65)
Figure 8: Apparel imports into the UK
Source: HMRC (based on SITC 84)
£185 £205 £222 £217 £203 £215 £213 £194 £217 £213 £220 £178 £212 £201 £227
£255 £245 £236 £240 £229 £234 £230 £252 £257 £234 £254£243
£286£230
£264
£0
£100
£200
£300
£400
£500
£600
Jan
uar
y
Feb
ruar
y
Mar
ch
Ap
ril
May
Jun
e
July
Au
gust
Sep
tem
be
r
Oct
ob
er
No
vem
be
r
De
cem
ber
Jan
uar
y
Feb
ruar
y
Mar
ch
2016 2017
£m
EU Non-EU
£399 £410 £407 £382 £390 £439 £457 £486 £503 £521 £555 £512 £474 £466 £502
£1,177£1,119£1,161£1,180£911 £983 £1,116
£1,245£1,385£1,311£1,105£1,031£1,210£885
£1,216
£0£200£400£600£800
£1,000£1,200£1,400£1,600£1,800£2,000
Jan
uar
y
Feb
ruar
y
Mar
ch
Ap
ril
May
Jun
e
July
Au
gust
Sep
tem
be
r
Oct
ob
er
No
vem
be
r
De
cem
ber
Jan
uar
y
Feb
ruar
y
Mar
ch
2016 2017
£m
EU Non-EU
10
Part Two: Annual Review of the Sector in 2016
Consumer Price Index
On an annual scale, clothing and footwear prices as represented by the consumer price index have
risen slightly on 2015. This is in-line with the overall CPI index. In comparison, the all goods
component has seen prices decline slightly between 2015 and 2016 On the whole, prices in the
clothing and footwear sector have performed constantly over the past few years following large
declines to 2010 as outsourcing and availability of more cost effective sources of fashion and textiles
goods were prevalent. In comparison, both the overall CPI and all goods indices have risen during
this period.
Figure 9: Consumer Price Index (2015=100)
Source: Office for National Statistics
Consumer Price Index by Clothing and Footwear grouping
Looking at the price of goods by constituent parts of the clothing and footwear grouping, prices have
remained stable on the CPI measure for both garments and other clothing and accessories over a
number of years. The main difference has been in the cleaning repair and hire of clothing that has
seen steady increases in these costs, rising over 20% since 2006. The price of garments fell rapidly
by over 20% in the same period although this fall occurred between 2006 and 2009.
60
70
80
90
100
110
120
2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016
CPI (overall index) All goods Clothing and footwear
11
Figure 10: Consumer Price Index by Clothing and Footwear grouping (2015=100)
Source: Office for National Statistics
Retail Price Index
The retail price index measures the change in cost of retail goods and services. The retail price index
measure shows clothing and footwear goods have seen a steady increase in consumer prices from
2009 onwards, rising by 71 per cent to 2016 in this period. However, between 2015 and 2016 there
was relative stability and retail prices of clothing and footwear goods increased 6 per cent on the
index.
In comparison, all goods and all items have seen less sharp increases. All goods increased by 20 per
cent between 2009 and 2016 and over the last year remained stable with no change.
Figure 11: Consumer Price Index by Clothing and Footwear item (1987=100)
Source: Office for National Statistics
60
70
80
90
100
110
120
130
2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016
Garments Other clothing and clothing accessories
Cleaning, repair and hire of clothing
0
50
100
150
200
250
300
2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016
ALL ITEMS All goods Clothing and footwear
12
Retail Price Index by Clothing and Footwear Grouping
Looking at the retail price index by the various fashion and textiles goods that make up the clothing
and footwear indicator, all goods have seen similar retail price increases since 2009. In terms of
percentage increases, women’s outwear has increased 106 per cent albeit from a lower base and
men’s outerwear 73 percent.
Figure 12: Retail Price Index by Clothing and Footwear item (1987=100)
Source: Office for National Statistics
0
50
100
150
200
250
2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016
Men's outerwear Women's outerwear Childrens' outerwear
Other clothing Footwear
13
Retail Sales Index
Using the retail sales index, 2016 was challenging year for textile, clothing, footwear and leather
retailers, with the sales index falling 2 per cent over the year for both value and volume of sales.
However, this is still well above the levels seen in 2010.
In comparison, the non-food store retail index as a whole for both value and volume have
strengthened more greatly than textiles, clothing, footwear and leather in this period and continued
that trend in 2016, rising 3.6 per cent over the year. A number of elements may be responsible for
this on-going trend although fashion being a market leader in the move from brick to click is a major
factor.
Figure 13:: Retail Sales Index (2013=100) Value and Chained Volume at Current Prices Seasonally Adjusted
Source: Office for National Statistics
Retail Sales Index by Fashion and Textiles grouping
Examining the retail sales index by specific type of store, both textiles and footwear and leather
store sales increased in 2016 and proved buoyant. This is in comparison to the clothing index that
saw store sales fall by 3.2 per cent in 2016. This fall was responsible for the overall decline in the
sector as a whole, with clothing being its largest component.
90
95
100
105
110
115
120
2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016
Volume Textiles, Clothing and Footwear Volume Predominantly non-food stores
Value Textiles, Clothing and Footwear Value Predominantly non-food stores
14
Figure 14: Retail Sales Index by Fashion and Textiles goods (2013=100)
Source: Office for National Statistics
UK Consumer Spending
The UK consumer spent over £75bn on clothing, footwear and household textiles in 2016. This is a
strong growth on the year and continues the upward trend, indicates a growing and continuing
consumer demand for fashion products.
Figure 15: UK retail sales of clothing, footwear and household textiles £bn (chained volume measure)
Source: Office for National Statistics
90
95
100
105
110
115
120
2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016
Volume Textiles Volume Clothing
Volume Footwear and Leather Goods Value Textiles
Value Clothing Value Footwear and Leather Goods
£41.5£45.0
£48.6£53.5
£57.3£60.2 £60.2 £61.6
£64.3£68.2
£72.4£75.4
£0
£10
£20
£30
£40
£50
£60
£70
£80
2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016
£ bn
15
UK Consumer Spending by Fashion and Textiles component
Looking at consumer spending by specific item, garments, which make up by far the greatest
component, grew to £52.2bn in 2016 although this was a slowdown compared to the rises measured
in 2015. Other articles of clothing and clothing accessories also saw large levels of growth in 2016
whilst footwear was also robust. Interestingly the cleaning and hire of clothing saw falls at a
substantial level that has continued the on-going decline in consumer spending on these services
Table 1: UK retail sales by specific fashion and textiles item £bn (chained volume measure)
Clothing
materials Garments
Other articles of clothing
and clothing acc
Cleaning and hire of
clothing
Shoes and other
footwear
Repair and hire of
footwear Household Textiles
2005 £0.51 £28.32 £1.92 £1.00 £5.05 £0.05 £4.69
2006 £0.59 £30.17 £2.21 £1.03 £5.73 £0.06 £5.25
2007 £0.55 £32.54 £2.42 £1.09 £6.07 £0.05 £5.85
2008 £0.62 £36.55 £2.44 £1.20 £6.58 £0.05 £6.03
2009 £0.58 £39.87 £2.21 £1.25 £7.08 £0.07 £6.25
2010 £0.63 £41.44 £2.87 £1.15 £7.27 £0.06 £6.80
2011 £0.60 £42.90 £3.11 £0.99 £7.52 £0.05 £5.03
2012 £0.64 £43.38 £3.28 £0.97 £8.02 £0.06 £5.27
2013 £0.81 £44.60 £3.59 £0.96 £8.26 £0.05 £6.00
2014 £0.70 £47.09 £3.64 £0.97 £9.24 £0.06 £6.48
2015 £0.69 £50.20 £3.47 £0.79 £10.04 £0.05 £7.20
2016 £0.69 £52.18 £3.59 £0.75 £10.67 £0.05 £7.48
Source: Office for National Statistics
Internet Sales
An interesting area of growth where the fashion and textiles sector been one of the largest and
leading UK sectors has been in internet sales. In 2016, UK online sales via textiles, clothing and
footwear stores reached £1.43bn (please note this excludes exclusively online retailers such as ASOS
who are measured in a more generic online category). This represents year on year growth since the
start of the Office for National Statistics beginning to collect this data, and almost doubling the figure
from 2011. Having an online offering has now become crucial for the majority of fashion and textiles
retailers.
Figure 16: Internet Sales by Textiles, Clothing and Footwear Stores £m (chained volume measure)
Source: Office for National Statistics (weekly sales aggregated per year)
£753£900
£1,022£1,211
£1,352 £1,432
£0
£500
£1,000
£1,500
£2,000
2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016
£m
16
Use of the Internet to Purchase Fashion Goods Online
This increase in internet sales also correlates to the number of people using the internet to purchase
fashion and textiles goods. Whilst it slightly dipped in 2016, 54 per cent of all adults in the UK had
made purchases of fashion goods using the internet, a 12 per cent increase on 2012’s figure.
Figure 17: Online purchases 2012 to 2016
Source: Office for National Statistics. Internet access - households and individuals, 2016 Base: Adults (aged
16+) in Great Britain
42%47% 49%
55% 54%
0%
10%
20%
30%
40%
50%
60%
2012 2013 2014 2015 2016
17
Enterprises and employment
Business Numbers
As reported through HM Government’s Inter-Departmental Business Register, 2016 saw a continued
increase in textile and apparel manufacturing enterprise numbers.2 There are now 8,075
enterprises3 and this represents the third successive annual rise in registered textile and apparel
manufacturing companies. This is up from 7,190 in 2013 and shows the continued confidence in UK
fashion and textiles manufacturing as demand for British manufactured fashion and textiles goods
grows. Factors including the strength of the British brand, the shortening and sustainability of
supply chains and opportunities for niche manufacture are all considerations.
Figure 18: Textiles and apparel manufacturing enterprises 2016
Source: Inter-Departmental Business Register via NOMIS
2 The IDBR collects information based on enterprises and self-employed individuals registered for VAT and PAYE. The data therefore does not include businesses or individuals under this threshold. The ONS estimates approximately 50% of businesses in the UK are below this measure and previous work suggests a large micro-business community within UK textile and clothing manufacturing. 3 The IDBR also contains workplace information. Using this measure there are currently 8,240 workplaces
4,050 3,880 3,825 3,790 3,840 4,030 4,200
3,530 3,365 3,490 3,400 3,4603,830 3,875
0
1,000
2,000
3,000
4,000
5,000
6,000
7,000
8,000
9,000
2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016
Manufacture of textiles Manufacture of wearing apparel
18
Size of businesses
The IDBR also gives information on the size of businesses within the sector. Reflecting how
businesses currently operate within the sector, with the nimbleness of production and fewer large
firms due to the impact of off-shoring, employment is dominated by micro-employing firms.
However, there are a number of firms employing over 10 people and a number of 250+ employers
still operating within the UK.
Fashion and Textiles wholesalers, included within this statistic, tend to be dominated further by
micro employers.
Table 3: Fashion and textiles firms by size
Micro (0 to 9) Small (10 to 49)
Medium-sized (50 to 249) Large (250+)
Manufacture of textiles 78.2% 17.3% 3.9% 0.6%
Manufacture of wearing apparel 82.7% 15.0% 2.1% 0.1%
Manufacture of leather and related products 81.3% 13.8% 4.9% 0.8%
Fashion and Textiles wholesale 85.8% 12.3% 1.8% 0.3% Source: Inter-Departmental Business Register via NOMIS
19
Location of fashion and textiles businesses
The inter-departmental business register also gives us an indication of where businesses are located
within the UK. Textiles manufacturers are spread around various areas of the country with the
North West, East Midlands, London and South East all home to centres of production.
Manufacturing of wearing apparel business numbers are clustered around London although with the
East Midlands and North West also areas of significant business numbers. Manufacture of leather
and leather goods (which includes footwear) are predominantly located within London, the West
Midlands and East Midlands.
Table 4: Textiles and apparel manufacturing enterprises by geography 2016
Manufacture
of textiles
Manufacture of wearing
apparel
Manufacture of leather
and leather goods
Fashion and textiles
wholesale
North East 2.5% 1.8%
1.6% 1.6%
North West 14.4% 10.7%
8.9% 15.3%
Yorkshire and The Humber
10.6% 5.4% 5.7%
7.1%
East Midlands 12.0% 16.0%
12.2% 9.8%
West Midlands 8.2% 7.1%
13.8% 7.1%
East 7.9% 7.0%
8.9% 8.1%
London 11.3% 31.0%
23.6% 30.0%
South East 11.1% 8.0%
8.9% 9.1%
South West 7.6% 4.5%
8.9% 4.9%
Wales 4.2% 1.7%
3.3% 1.9%
Scotland 7.4% 5.7%
4.1% 3.5%
Northern Ireland 3.0% 1.2%
0.8% 1.6%
Source: Inter-Departmental Business Register via NOMIS
20
Business Registrations
The rise in textiles and apparel firm numbers between 2014 and 2015 is illustrated in the registration
information of textiles and apparel firms in 2015.4 605 textile and 590 apparel manufacturing firms
were created in 2015, a sharp increase on business creation in the recent past within the sector,
especially, textiles firms that have seen large increases, almost doubling on 2010 figures.
What is particularly interesting is the business de-registration information. Whilst apparel
manufacturing de-registrations remained consistent with previous years and represent the “risky”
nature of setting up businesses within the sector, the number of de-registrations for textile
manufacturing firms continued to fall signifying market conditions are more favourable.
Figure 19: Textile Manufacturing firm registration and de-registrations
Source: Office for National Statistics
Figure 20: Apparel Manufacturing firm registration and de-registrations
Source: Office for National Statistics
4 The previous year’s figures are traditionally published later in the year. 2015s figures are therefore unavailable.
310355 355
475440
605
450405
435370 360 340
0
100
200
300
400
500
600
700
2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015
Textile Firm Births Textile Firm Deaths
375
465 440
540505
590
515 500 495 510 490 515
0
100
200
300
400
500
600
700
2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015
Apparel Firm Births Apparel Firm Deaths
21
Employment
Labour Force Survey
The Labour Force Survey,5 a more contemporary measure gives us information up to the last quarter
of 2016, the latest q4 2016 showed 108,000 people were employed within textiles and apparel
manufacture (excluding self-employed), a larger figure than any quarter reported in 2015 and the
same quarter in 2014. The longer term view of the numbers shows a continuing steady growth in
employment numbers.
Figure 21: Textile and apparel manufacturing employment
Source: Labour Force Survey via the Office for National Statistics
Self-employment
An interesting figure from the Labour Force Survey concerns self-employment. 2016 shows how
self-employment continued to rise compared to 2015 numbers. This could be consistent with the
number of new companies registered and large micro-employment with the prevalence of flexible
working patterns, i.e. freelancing and more market opportunities for self-employment and going
alone with the correct skills. Numbers classified as employees has declined slightly on the
corresponding quarter for 2015.
5 Labour Force Survey is a time-series sample survey covering all people with in the UK labour market. For this analysis the focus has been on all in employment including self-employed.
68 73 70 69 66 64 60 59 65 67 64 62 61 67 66 68 67 68 71 68 66 67 60 62 70 73 74 65
38 40 43 42 39 38 37 3841 39 36 37 37 37 44 45 45 45 43 39 42 36
3647 39 41 37 43
0
20
40
60
80
100
120
q1 q2 q3 q4 q1 q2 q3 q4 q1 q2 q3 q4 q1 q2 q3 q4 q1 q2 q3 q4 q1 q2 q3 q4 q1 q2 q3 q4
2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016
Manufacture of textiles Manufacture of wearing apparel
22
Figure 22: Textile and apparel manufacturing employment by self-employment
Source: Labour Force Survey via the Office for National Statistics
Location of employment
The following table based on the Business Register and Employment Survey shows the location of
fashion and textiles manufacturers and wholesaler employment within the UK. This contrasts to the
business numbers as takes into account employment in larger firms on a regional basis. As we can
see the employment within the manufacturing of textiles is mainly located around the North West
and Yorkshire and the Humber whereas wearing apparel is mainly located within London and the
East Midlands. Leather and related products are mainly located around the East Midlands and the
South West whereas fashion and textiles wholesaling is based in the North West and London.
Table 5: Fashion and Textiles locations by area of industry
Manufacture of textiles
Manufacture of wearing apparel
Manufacture of leather and related products
Fashion and Textiles wholesale related activities
East 5% 3% 9% 7%
East Midlands 13% 21% 29% 10%
London 5% 38% 6% 20%
North East 5% 3% 0% 2%
North West 25% 6% 14% 25%
Scotland 9% 10% 11% 6%
South East 5% 5% 3% 7%
South West 6% 3% 21% 6%
Wales 2% 2% 1% 2%
West Midlands 5% 7% 10% 8%
Yorkshire and the Humber 19% 4% 1% 9%
Source: Business Register and Employment Survey 2015
94 97 98 92 85 84 81 76 81 79 79 80 80 81 85 87 87 89 92 90 89 84 78 81 87 88 83 82
12 16 15 1920 18 16 21
25 27 21 19 18 23 25 26 25 24 22 17 19 1918
28 22 26 28 26
0
20
40
60
80
100
120
q1 q2 q3 q4 q1 q2 q3 q4 q1 q2 q3 q4 q1 q2 q3 q4 q1 q2 q3 q4 q1 q2 q3 q4 q1 q2 q3 q4
2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016
Employed Self-Employed
23
Fashion and Textiles Vacancies
The following section indicates the vacancies that are available within the sector as advertised by
Drapers and Fashion United. Whilst these vacancies are not a comprehensive list, they do illustrate
both the vast number and different opportunities available within the sector.
Drapers
Vacancies advertised through Drapers focus on a number of skilled and professional vacancies are
comprehensive in their categorisation. These show a buoyant job market within the sector across
manufacture, wholesale and retail and across the associated processes they include. Over 1,400
jobs were advertised via Drapers in March 2017.
Table 6: Fashion and Textiles locations by area of industry
Ap
r
May
Jun
Jul
Au
g
Sep
t
Oct
No
v
De
c
Jan
Feb
Mar
Ove
r
all Ch
ang
e
Ch
ange
%
Account Management 108 64 69 68 47 51 51 55 90 60 51 62 -46 -43%
Administration and Support 40 45 52 45 49 39 28 42 45 27 32 35 -5 -13%
Allocation and Distribution 14 7 6 10 12 15 21 16 16 13 16 10 -4 -29%
Analyst 7 7 3 5 5 7 9 4 5 4 5 1 -6 -86%
Buyer 168 160 113 126 114 109 86 100 128 82 89 82 -86 -51%
Copywriter 4 2 2 4 3 4 8 4 3 1 4 0 0%
Customer Service 27 18 17 15 23 28 14 23 15 12 8 4 -23 -85%
Design 280 313 269 300 253 252 279 284 316 244 227 182 -98 -35%
Digital 35 37 42 48 45 31 34 49 37 44 23 11 -24 -69%
Ecommerce 69 40 69 55 51 47 85 63 76 48 54 28 -41 -59%
Finance 8 7 8 8 12 12 18 7 4 9 9 12 4 50%
Garment Designer 34 32 31 26 19 34 35 41 34 43 28 25 -9 -26%
Garment Technologist 102 112 78 60 62 62 77 75 83 63 75 54 -48 -47%
HR and Training 25 19 22 16 28 28 17 24 12 22 12 16 -9 -36%
Lecturer 4 1 1 2 2 1 3 1 2 2 -4 -
100%
Logistics 10 9 7 5 5 9 9 10 15 11 11 10 0 0%
Marketing 45 54 39 64 72 52 65 55 45 52 52 33 -12 -27%
Merchandiser 264 240 245 210 174 227 200 246 301 161 151 136 -128 -48%
Model 1 0 0 2 2 -1
Packaging 0 0 1 2 1 1 1 0
PR 7 5 8 7 4 4 7 7 11 8 9 3 -4 -57%
Print and Photographer 2 2 2 1 4 2 4 3 4 4 -2
Procurement 1 4 2 3 2 1 1 2 2 3 2 200%
Product Developer 22 22 25 23 40 43 42 44 26 44 29 31 9 41%
Product Manager 13 19 12 13 24 16 10 8 10 8 15 8 -5 -38%
Production 58 52 52 44 66 69 58 59 63 62 49 70 12 21%
Project Management 3 4 3 7 6 2 3 3 5 2 2 3 0 0%
24
Purchasing 6 2 3 3 7 3 7 6 3 3 1 -6
Retail Management 218 172 116 146 148 165 148 123 60 179 239 148 -70 -32%
Sales 191 176 201 133 239 219 267 373 269 226 280 206 15 8%
Sample Cutter 6 5 4 5 3 4 5 18 10 3 2 4 -2 -33%
Store Manager 82 56 48 36 62 71 49 39 21 47 57 38 -44 -54%
Supervisor 12 4 4 9 17 18 14 10 4 1 10 12 0 0%
Supply Chain 4 8 6 5 11 10 5 7 25 6 4 5 1 25%
Technical 116 105 85 122 95 114 109 104 137 83 80 85 -31 -27%
Visual Merchandising 17 18 14 14 10 18 16 12 13 9 7 10 -7 -41%
Warehouse 3 2 1 1 7 4 3 1 2 1 1 -2 -67%
Watches 6 9 8 7 17 10 16 11 7 9 4 4 -2 -33%
Web Development 5 6 5 3 2 3 3 1
2 -5
Wholesale 114 72 88 73 86 77 84 85 86 53 57 70 -44 -39%
Total 2,131 1,910 1,761 1,724 1,821 1,866 1,888 2,017 1,982 1,648 1,698 1,406 -725 -34%
Source: Drapers based on analysis taken from vacancies advertised on the final Friday of each calendar month.
Fashion United
Fashion United’s job listings are comprehensive in their scope and categorised differently to Drapers.
An analysis of the vacancies advertised through Fashion United also shows a decline in the
availability of jobs being offered through the year. Whilst Fashion United is predominantly UK based
there are a number of European opportunities offered too. What is interesting is the large decline in
retail management and in-store opportunities that is driving these numbers. This is consistent with
the performance of the physical high street fashion and textiles retailers during 2016 and the early
part of 2017.
Table 7: Fashion and Textiles locations by area of industry
Ap
r
May
Jun
Jul
Au
g
Sep
Oct
No
v
De
c
Jan
Feb
Mar
An
nu
al
chan
ge
An
nu
al %
Retail Management and In-Store 732 564 574 586 420 508 679 432 361 207 191 200 -532 -73%
Sales and Marketing 70 54 39 46 57 48 51 58 49 44 52 52 -18 -26%
Design and Creative 80 66 45 39 38 24 31 44 39 48 50 40 -40 -50%
Product and Supply Chain 163 141 103 76 69 54 52 60 66 89 111 101 -62 -38%
Other 101 64 48 60 44 21 29 32 23 14 18 25 -76 -75%
Internships 195 203 180 190 200 184 178 184 147 159 176 181 -14 -7%
Total 1,341 1,092 989 997 828 839 1,020 810 685 561 598 599 -742 -55%
Source: Fashion United based on analysis on the final Friday of the calendar month.
25
Productivity
Total Production Value
In line with the growth in business and employment numbers (represented by the labour force
survey measure), the total production value for textiles and apparel manufacturer saw a huge
increase in value in 2015. Both textiles and apparel manufacturers saw large gains with turnover
standing at £9.1bn for the year. This is up from £8.3bn in 2014 and a larger number than recorded in
2008, before the full impact economic downturn fed into the figures. Both the textiles and apparel
elements of the measure were above this 2008 figure, although apparel has seen impressive rises.
Indeed, 2015 was a stellar year for apparel manufacturers with total production value higher than
any other year within the recent past.
Figure 23: Textile and apparel manufacturer turnover (£m)
Source: Office for National Statistics Annual Business Survey
£5,628 £5,047 £5,304 £5,473 £5,313 £5,285 £5,336 £5,715
£2,925£2,561
£2,816 £2,834 £2,653 £2,749 £2,916£3,430
£0
£1,000
£2,000
£3,000
£4,000
£5,000
£6,000
£7,000
£8,000
£9,000
£10,000
2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015
Textiles Apparel
26
Gross Value Added
The figure for 2015’s GVA for textiles and apparel manufacturers reflects the reported increase in
production values. The 2015 figures represent a large increase on 2014’s levels and again above
2008’s when GVA was higher than at any other time. 2015’s reported GVA currently stands at
£3.3bn, a £600 million increase on 2014. Again, as with production values, apparel manufacturing
GVA saw large increases.
Figure 24: Gross Value Added
Source: Office for National Statistics Annual Business Survey
£2,096 £1,887 £1,934 £1,847£2,262 £2,110 £1,913
£2,253
£930
£651£885
£831
£744 £911£897
£1,068
£0
£500
£1,000
£1,500
£2,000
£2,500
£3,000
£3,500
2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015
Textiles Apparel
27
Index of Production
The Index of Production gives a good insight into recent sector productivity based on a volume of
production. The index also demonstrates the volatility within fashion and textiles manufacturing
sector when compared to wider UK manufacturing which has been fairly stable across recent years.
Interestingly, the index in 2016 shows textiles and apparel manufacturing performing differently,
with apparel production having risen significantly in 2015 declining substantially in 2016 whereas
textiles manufacturing enjoyed their first year of production growth in recent times.
Figure 25: Index of production 2013 = 100
Source: Office for National Statistics
Producer Prices
2016 saw a rise in producer prices as the final two quarters saw increases on this scale. However,
both textiles and apparel manufacturing have seen falls in production costs in recent years so the
recent rises put costs back to around the mark they were at in 2011.
80
85
90
95
100
105
110
115
120
2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016
All manufacturing Textiles Apparel
28
Figure 26: Producer price index (2010=100)
Source: Office for National Statistics
Output per job
Output per job in textiles and clothing manufacturing has been volatile in comparison to the wider
all manufacturing figure. Whilst all manufacturing has remained fairly stable through the past six
years, textiles and clothing has seen significantly movements both up and down, something seen
during 2016 with the year ending just slightly under 2013’s average. This in many ways
demonstrates the volatility of production and workforce requirements within the sector with order
runs dictating workforce requirements.
Figure 19: Output per job 2013=100
Source: Office for National Statistics
90
95
100
105
110
115
Q1 Q2 Q3 Q4 Q1 Q2 Q3 Q4 Q1 Q2 Q3 Q4 Q1 Q2 Q3 Q4 Q1 Q2 Q3 Q4 Q1 Q2 Q3 Q4 Q1 Q2 Q3 Q4
2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016
Textiles Wearing Apparel
80
90
100
110
120
130
Q1 Q2 Q3 Q4 Q1 Q2 Q3 Q4 Q1 Q2 Q3 Q4 Q1 Q2 Q3 Q4 Q1 Q2 Q3 Q4 Q1 Q2 Q3 Q4 Q1 Q2 Q3 Q4
2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016
All Manufacturing Textiles and Clothing
29
Business Investment
Investment
Despite the positive turnover and GVA figures reported for 2016, business investment by textiles,
clothing, leather and footwear manufacturers declined in 2016 for the fifth successive year to £147
million.6 This is down from the peak of £247 million in 2011 and even the 2010 annual figure when
the effects of the downturn were most being felt within the sector. There was a similar pattern in
wider UK manufacturing which also saw a decline in investment in 2016 having enjoyed steady
growth in recent years.
Figure 27: Business Investment (Chained Volume Measure. Reference Year 2013)
Source: Office for National Statistics
Research and Development
Linked to the performance of business investment, research and development spend also saw a
decline for textiles, clothing, leather and footwear manufacturers during 2015 to stand at £19m, its
lowest level of investment for four years. However this is still significantly above the numbers
recorded in the years during the downturn and sharp business decline around 2009, 2010 and 2011
as firms both innovate and look to lead the market in a number of key textile areas, many in
applications not directly relevant to fashion with many within the technical realm.
Figure 28: Research and Development. Total Intermural Research & Development
6 Using the Chained Volume Measure
£187
£247£230 £220
£201 £189
£147
£0
£5,000
£10,000
£15,000
£20,000
£25,000
£30,000
£0
£50
£100
£150
£200
£250
£300
2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016
£m
Textiles, Clothing and Leather All Manufacturing
30
Source: Business Enterprise Research and Development via Office for National Statistics
£17£19
£15
£10£11
£14
£20£22 £22
£19
£0
£5
£10
£15
£20
£25
2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015
£m
31
Exports and Imports
Exports
Demonstrating the global demand for UK fashion and textiles products, exports continued to
perform well in 2016, increasing again on year by year figures, to stand at over £9bn combined in
total value. Textiles, following a small drop in 2015 were up 4.8 per cent to £2.8bn whilst apparel
were up 7.7 per cent on the year.
Figure 29: Exports of textiles and apparel from the UK 2012-2016
Source: HMRC (based on SITC 65 & 84)
Exports by global region
Looking at the markets for these textiles and apparel products, the European Community remains
the largest area with £1.93bn worth of textiles and £4.8bn worth of apparel goods exported there.
The Asian, North American and Middle Eastern markets were also significant for textiles and apparel
manufacturers.
£2,715 £2,791 £2,813 £2,688 £2,823
£4,427£5,102 £5,502 £5,767 £6,249
£0
£2,000
£4,000
£6,000
£8,000
£10,000
2012 2013 2014 2015 2016
£m
Textiles Apparel
32
Figure 30: Export markets for textiles and apparel from the UK in 2016 by region
Textiles (£m) Apparel (£m)
Source: HMRC (based on SITC 65 & 84)
Exports by global region 2015 vs 2016
Looking at how global regions performed in 2016 vs 2015, European markets have shown substantial
growth in 2016, with textiles up seven per cent, and apparel exports up 13.9 per cent. North
American markets have also shown growth over the year, up 3.5 per cent for textiles and 5.7 per
cent for apparel.
Table 8: Fashion and Textiles exports by global region
Textiles (£m) Apparel (£m)
2015 2016 % 2015 2016 %
European Community £1,795 £1,930 7.0% £4,114 £4,779 13.9%
Asia and Oceania £294 £306 3.8% £629 £535 -17.5%
Eastern Europe £54 £50 -8.4% £119 £76 -56.0%
Latin America and Caribbean £27 £24 -9.1% £18 £19 2.0%
Middle East and N Africa £143 £136 -5.7% £286 £233 -22.6%
North America £245 £253 3.5% £426 £452 5.7%
Sub-Saharan Africa £55 £47 -17.6% £35 £23 -55.7%
Western Europe exc EC £75 £77 2.7% £140 £131 -6.6%
Total £2,688 £2,823 4.8% £5,767 £6,249 7.7%
Source: HMRC (based on SITC 65 & 84)
£1,930
£306
£253
£136
£77
£50 £47
£24
EuropeanCommunity
Asia andOceania
North America
Middle East andN Africa
Western Europeexc EC
Eastern Europe
Sub-SaharanAfrica
Latin Americaand Caribbean
£4,779
£535
£452
£233
£131£76
£23
£19
EuropeanCommunity
Asia andOceania
North America
Middle Eastand N Africa
WesternEurope exc EC
Eastern Europe
Sub-SaharanAfrica
Latin Americaand Caribbean
33
Exports by top 20 individual countries
The data from HMRC also gives us an indication of the top 20 markets for textiles and apparel.
Textiles greatest markets from the UK are Germany (worth £301m), Netherlands (£246m) the USA
(£220m) and the Irish Republic (£216m).
In terms of apparel, Germany (£1,3bn), the Irish Republic (£884m), France (£627m) and the USA
(£383m) were the greatest markets for exported from the UK.
Table 9: Exports of textiles and apparel from the UK by specific country 2016 (Top 20)
Exports
Textiles Apparel
1 Germany £301 Germany £1,307
2 Netherlands £246 Irish Republic £884
3 United States £220 France £627
4 Irish Republic £216 United States £383
5 Romania £163 Italy £372
6 Belgium £161 Spain £268
7 France £153 Netherlands £255
8 Italy £138 Belgium £180
9 Poland £127 Hong Kong £136
10 Spain £73 Australia £133
11 China £72 Poland £120
12 Denmark £55 Sweden £113
13 Hong Kong £48 Czech Republic £103
14 Sweden £47 UAE £98
15 Czech Republic £44 Austria £83
16 Portugal £43 Denmark £81
17 Morocco £41 Japan £71
18 Japan £34 Hungary £66
19 Turkey £34 Canada £66
20 UAE £31 Greece £59
Source: HMRC (based on SITC 65 & 84)
34
Imports
Imports of fashion and textiles goods have followed the increasing consumer demands for fashion
and textiles goods and again rose in 2016, following the patterns of previous years. Imports of
textiles goods stood £5.38bn in 2016, up 4.9 per cent on 2015 whilst apparel at £19.1bn in 2016, was
up 4.4 per cent on 2015.
Figure 31: Imports of textiles and apparel into the UK 2016
Source: HMRC (based on SITC 65 & 84)
Imports by global region
Imports of fashion and textiles goods into the UK were sourced from a variety of regions.
Interestingly, textiles imports were evenly sourced by value from the European Community
(£2.47bn) and Asia (£2.2bn)with other areas of non-EU Western Europe also significant import
sources (£371m).
Apparel markets are dominated by Asia with almost £11.4bn exported here in 2016 accounting for
60 per cent of all imports. The European Union is the next largest block totalling just under £5.37bn.
Other significant markets again include other non-EU Western European countries.
£4,659 £4,868 £5,088 £5,138 £5,387
£16,020 £16,915 £17,667 £18,309 £19,093
£0
£5,000
£10,000
£15,000
£20,000
£25,000
£30,000
2012 2013 2014 2015 2016
£m
Textiles Apparel
35
Figure 32: Imports of textiles and apparel to the UK by region 2016
Textiles (£m) Apparel (£m)
Source: HMRC (based on SITC 65 & 84)
Imports by global region 2015 vs 2016
Imports into the UK, especially for textiles saw solid growth from both the European Community and
Asia and Oceania. Non-EC Western Europe also grew as a market for textiles imports during 2016.
In terms of apparel, imports grew strongly from the Europe Community, rising 12.4% over the year
whist North and Latin America (from a lower base) also saw substantial growth. Sub-Saharan Africa,
saw a large decline over the year.
Table 10: Fashion and Textiles imports by global region
Textiles Apparel
2015 2016 % 2015 2016 %
European Community £2,331 £2,478 5.9% £4,705 £5,369 12.4%
Asia and Oceania £2,129 £2,231 4.6% £11,248 £11,367 1.1%
Eastern Europe £4 £3 -17.7% £56 £60 7.5%
Latin America and Caribbean £14 £13 -4.8% £32 £41 21.9%
Middle East and N Africa £104 £95 -9.2% £372 £364 -2.3%
North America £190 £183 -4.4% £283 £323 12.5%
Sub-Saharan Africa £14 £14 -2.3% £153 £114 -34.9%
Western Europe exc EC £352 £371 5.1% £1,459 £1,454 -0.3%
Total £5,138 £5,387 4.6% £18,309 £19,093 4.1%
Source: HMRC (based on SITC 65 & 84)
£11,367£5,369
£1,454
£364
£323
£114
£60
£41
Asia andOceania
EuropeanCommunity
WesternEurope exc EC
Middle Eastand N Africa
North America
Sub-SaharanAfrica
Eastern Europe
Latin Americaand Caribbean
£2,478
£2,231
£371
£183 £95
£14
£13
£3
EuropeanCommunity
Asia andOceania
WesternEurope exc EC
North America
Middle Eastand N Africa
Sub-SaharanAfrica
Latin Americaand Caribbean
Eastern Europe
36
Imports by top 20 individual countries Imports of both textiles and apparel goods were dominated by China (excluding goods via Hong
Kong which are measured separately). Over £1bn worth of textiles goods were imported from China
whilst Belgium (£551m) and Pakistan (£450m) were also significant markets and demonstrates
country specialisms in goods supply. Eight individual countries exported over £350m worth of
textiles goods to the UK in 2016 from a variety of country sources.
After China (£4.5bn), apparel imports from Bangladesh (£2bn), Turkey (£1.4bn), India (£1.1bn) and
Italy (£1bn) were of largest value into the UK. Again, the individual country list demonstrates the
variety of goods sourced and diversity of UK consumer needs with a mixture of low cost and luxury
supplying countries within the list.
Table 11: Imports of textiles and apparel into the UK by specific country 2016 (Top 20)
Imports
Textiles (£m) Apparel (£m)
1 China £1,053 China £4,147
2 Belgium £551 Bangladesh £2,029
3 Pakistan £450 Turkey £1,439
4 Germany £397 India £1,139
5 India £377 Italy £1,010
6 Netherlands £369 Sri Lanka £929
7 Italy £354 Germany £817
8 Turkey £352 Hong Kong £734
9 France £166 Cambodia £704
10 United States £165 France £671
11 Spain £112 Netherlands £613
12 Portugal £95 Spain £525
13 South Korea £77 Vietnam £492
14 Denmark £71 Pakistan £485
15 Poland £63 Belgium £444
16 Israel £44 Romania £345
17 Czech Republic £43 United States £299
18 Hong Kong £40 Malaysia £208
19 Irish Republic £36 Portugal £203
20 Bangladesh £36 Indonesia £159
Source: HMRC (based on SITC 65 & 84)