The Time Out guide to Camden

The essential guide to Camden Town, King’s Cross, Bloomsbury andHampstead & Highgate. Visit www.lovecamden.org

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From raw natural beauty to the architectural echoesof an industrial past,Camden is a fascinatingand diverse slice of London that has inspiredcenturies of artists andwriters, and whichcontinues to draw visitorsfrom around the world.

Whether you have livedin north London all your life or you’re in town for the firsttime, you’ll easily find something fresh to enjoy. Lookbeyond high streets and stroll away from main roads forentertainment, scientific discovery, art, wildlife, historyand a world of cuisines.

In this Guide we want to lead you to hithertoundiscovered places and new favourite experiences –the village lanes of Hampstead and Highgate, the rock’n’ roll haunts of Camden Town, and the cultural walksthrough Bloomsbury. Our maps and directions will showyou just how easy it is to get from one to another.

So what are you waiting for? Go explore!

For offers and events in Camden this summer, visit www.lovecamden.org ™ 3 �

Published byTime Out Magazine LtdUniversal House, 251 Tottenham Court Road, London, W1T 7ABTel 020 7813 3000 Fax 020 7813 6001www.timeout.com

Editor Tim Arthur

Guide editor Laura Lee DaviesSub editors Claire Hils, Lewis LyonsContributors Laura LeeDavies, Lisa Mullen, Emma PerryDesign Chris Tate, Thomas HavellPicture researchAbigail LelliottProduction manager Brendan McKeown

Time Out Magazine Ltd is part of the Time Out GroupDirector & FounderTony Elliott

Chief executive officer David KingChief operating officerAksel van der WalChief commercial officerDavid PepperInternational managingdirector Cathy RuncimanGroup Financial directorPaul Rakkar

Printed by Ancient HousePrinting Group

This is a product ofTime Out Brand Solutions:Derek Pratt 020 7813 6008

© Copyright Time Out Group Ltd 2012. All rights reserved. All information was checked attime of going to press. Thepublisher and the brand partnercannot be held responsible forany errors.

Front cover: © Nick Hanna/Alamy© Vibrant Pictures/AlamyThis page: Peter Phipp/Travelshots.com/Alamy

Welcome1British MuseumExploring Shakespeare’s world

in a major new exhibition.

2Camden Lock Markets, global cuisine, walks

and a great spot to meet friends.

3British Library Centuries of heritage and a

celebration of new British writing.

4Hampstead HeathFree summer wellbeing sessions

and live music at the bandstand.

5Regent’s ParkWild animals, flower gardens,

outdoor theatre and alfresco dining.

6St Pancras GrandFine dining, live jazz,

champagne – all without leaving the station.

7Lauderdale HouseArt and arts performances

in an old English garden setting.

8Jazz Café Funky club nights and great

live sessions. One of Camden’s many vibrant music venues.

9Oasis Sports Centre Swimming under the skies on

a rooftop in the middle of London.

10Museum StreetQuirky independent

boutiques and charming cafés.

Top ten things to do:

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See Love Camden boxesthroughout this guide formoney-saving deals. Go towww.lovecamden.org for full terms and conditions.

Great offers VISIT LOVECAMDEN.ORGFOR MORE GREAT

THINGS TO DO

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During the London 2012 Olympic and ParalympicGames, King’s Cross St Pancras is a major travelhub for visitors from around the world. However, even many Londoners won’t realise how many great things there are to see and do within easywalking distance of the stations. From quirky marketstalls in Camden to Aztec artefacts at the BritishMuseum to wild creatures at Camley Street NaturalPark, there’s something for everyone.

5 TO 10 MINUTES’ WALK

1 British LibraryManuscripts by Shakespeareand Handel, exhibitions andcafés (p13)2 Camley Street NaturalParkA two-acre nature reserve (p13) 3 London Canal MuseumUnique and fascinating (p15) 4 Kings PlaceCanalside arts venue (p15) 5 Foundling MuseumArt by Hogarth, Gainsboroughand Reynolds (p19)6 The Place Specialist dance theatre (p13)7 St Pancras ParishChurch Crypt GalleryContemporary art (p13) 8 The ScalaClub, music and arts venue (p15) 9 Shaw TheatreModern 446-seat theatre (p13)


10 Bloomsbury TheatreDrama, music and comedy (p14)11 Camden People’sTheatreInnovative fringe theatre (p14)12 Coram’s FieldsSeven-acre park designedespecially for children (p19)13 Drummond StreetTop spot for Asian food (p14)14 Euston TapCraft beer house (p14)

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15 Granary SquareNew canalside space (p13)16 Petrie MuseumEgyptian archaeology (p19) 17 Russell SquareA fine spot to relax, with afountain and a great café (p19)18 St Pancras GardensLovely former churchyard 19 Brunei GalleryVisiting art exhibitions (p19) 20 Wiener LibraryMajor Holocaust resource (p19) 21 The WellcomeCollectionMuseum of medical history, artand culture (p13)


22 British MuseumEgyptian mummies, the RosettaStone, visiting exhibitions andmuch more (p18)23 Camden marketsBustling, colourful fun (p10) 24 Grant MuseumZoological museum (p19) 25 Jewish MuseumLondonHistory, art and events (p7) 26 Regent’s Park London’s Central Park, withlakes, cafés, a rose garden andan open-air theatre27 Store Street Check out NLA’s 3-D map ofLondon, on a street ofindependent shops (p19)

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28 Argyle Square Gardens29 Cumberland MarketGreen30 Polygon Open Space

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For offers and events in Camden this summer, visit lovecamden.org ™ 5 �

The borough of Camden has more outdoorgym installations than any other in the UK,with nine sites, free for you to use! The

gyms are suitable for people of all ages and fitnesslevels, and you don't need any experience to usethem. For full details and addresses, visitwww.camden.gov.uk/outdoorgyms

Show this guide for a freeglassof house wineor CamdenTown Brewery beerwith lunch,dinner or weekend brunch atthe Roundhouse’s bar & diningroom. Offer applies to the first100 people.

Drink at Madein Camden

Camden’s original and mostrespected tattooists Evil From theNeedle (232 Camden High St, NW18QS, 020 7482 2412) are a bit furtherup, close to piercing studio ColdSteel (238 Camden High St, NW18QS, 020 7267 7970). Two pubs vie for your attention

on this strip. The Buck’s Head(202 Camden High St, NW1 8QR,020 7284 1513) is a friendly, no-nonsense pub serving good-valuelunches, while across the road, theOxford Arms (265 Camden HighSt, NW1 7BU, 020 7267 4945) has acheerful beer garden, andupstairs, the tiny EtceteraTheatre (020 7482 4857) hostssketch comedy and new playsand attracts an artier crowd.South of the tube station,

Camden settles into its off-duty identity as a localneighbourhood. The CamdenHead (100 Camden High St,NW1 0LU, 020 7485 4019) is alarge, comfortable bar whichhosts open mic comedy nights andlive music; next door, Camden Barand Kitchen (102 Camden High St,NW1 0LU, 020 7485 2744) is a

Camden Town

Camden Town is known around the world for itscolourful weekend market, a magnet for lovers ofalternative fashions. But the area buzzes seven days a week with pubs, bars, restaurants, shops, galleries,museums, clubs and live music and comedy venues.And during the week, or even at the weekends awayfrom the market areas, the pretty Regent’s Canalprovides a surprisingly peaceful and laid-back antidoteto all the bustle and excitement at street level.

Camden High Street

The upper half of the High Street,north of the tube station, is themain drag leading to themarkets, so, not surprisingly,this is where many ofCamden’s alternative styleshops are found. Goths (and the

goth-curious) head forChaos (243 CamdenHigh St, NW1 7BU, 0207284 2174) and Darkside(245 Camden High St, NW17BU, 020 7284 2174). There is asmall Cyber Market (211Camden High St, NW1 7QR), withstalls keen to lure in the club kids ontheir way to Cyberdog (p11).

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Village-style hangout Green Note(106 Parkway, NW1 7AN, 020 74859899), which serves veggie ‘worldtapas’ and hosts jazz, blues, folk,roots and world music gigs, as wellas comedy and spoken word. By day, Parkway has some good

lunch choices, including hot meals,salads and sandwiches at organicfood store Whole Foods Market(49 Parkway, NW1 7PN, 020 74287575), open till 9pm daily, andthere’s delicious fro-yo at TheCultured Cow (82 Parkway, NW17AN, 020 7998 7203). Vinyl junkies head to Sounds

That Swing (88 Parkway, NW17AN, 020 7267 4682), specialising in hillbilly, doo-wop and early souland funk, and to add to theneighbourhood feel there’s a smallpet shop called Palmer’s Pet Care

favourite for its all-day breakfasts(including a veggie version) andeclectic evening menu. To the east,on Pratt Street, you’ll find Sen Ninteppanyaki restaurant (35 Pratt St,NW1 0BG, 020 7096 1276), andVilamoura (23 Pratt St, NW1 0BG,020 3302 7331) for tapas and seafood,quietly tucked away from the HighStreet bustle. But then you’ll alsofind All Ages Recordshere (27Pratt St, NW1 0BG, 020 7267 0303),specialising in all things punk, soyou know you’re still in Camden.The end of the High Street is

marked by the ornate front of Koko(1a Camden High St, NW1 7JE, 0870 432 5527), opposite MorningtonCrescent tube. Opened in 1900 as a theatre by Victorian stage actressEllen Terry, it was reborn as a musicvenue in the ’70s and later asalternative clubbing hot spot theCamden Palace, but it still retainsplenty of old-style trappings suchas ornate balconies, gargoyles and a huge mirrorball centrepiece.

Parkway and InvernessStreet

Parkway is defined by two musicvenues that give it a distinctflavour. The Jazz Café (5 Parkway,NW1 7PG, 020 7485 6834) is a mid-sized venue hosting a little jazz, but mostly R&B, soul, hip hop, pop and retro music nights, with a good Modern European menu.Legendary indie-rock venue theDublin Castle (94 Parkway, NW17AN, 020 7485 1773) is justly proudof its heritage (Madness and Blurstarted out here) and still seeks out up-and-coming bands to champion,but also functions as a friendly pubwith a great jukebox. Nearby is the low-key Greenwich

(54 Parkway, NW1 7AH, 020 74855163). Across the road, the originalPalmer’s pet store was just too largeand desirable to remain a purveyorof fish food and cat baskets; it’s nowhome to airy teashop Yumchaa(35-37 Parkway, NW1 7PN, 0207209 9641), though it’s happilypreserved the original (indeed,listed) 1930s shopfront, advertising‘Monkeys’ and ‘Talking Parrots’. Off Parkway is a major cultural

attraction, the Jewish MuseumLondon (129-131 Albert St, NW17NB, 020 7284 7384, www.jewishmuseum.org.uk), with permanentgalleries, temporary exhibitionsand a programme of walks, talksand readings. And at the top ofParkway (only five minutes’ walkfrom Camden Town tube) is theeastern edge of beautiful Regent’sPark (www.royalparks.org.uk),great for walks, sports, cafés,outdoor theatre in summer, and ZSLLondon Zoo (www.zsl.org).Running parallel to Parkway,

Inverness Street features a strongrun of shops, bars and cafés, withBar Vinyl (6 Inverness St, NW1 7HJ,020 7485 9318) and Bar Gansa (2Inverness St, NW1 7HJ, 020 72678909) nestled at the eastern end, andformer Britpop Central The GoodMixer (30 Inverness St, NW1 7HJ,020 7916 7929) at the bottom of theroad. There’s more vinyl at On theFloor Records (10 Inverness St,


CAMDEN TOWN

ASHKAN & ELMIRA AT CAMDEN LOCK‘There’s lots of energy, I like thevariety, the colours, the good smells.I enjoy the crowd, everyone is veryfriendly and there’s not too muchsales pressure.’

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that’s seen it all over the years.Since 2006’s refurbishment it’s beena slick and thriving hub for musicand theatre. Its standalone bar,Made in Camden, is open to non-ticket-holders (see offer, p6), andthere’s an exciting programme ofcreative workshops and support foremerging artists.Almost opposite, Crogsland

Road leads off Chalk Farm Road to

the Zabludowicz Collection (176Prince of Wales Rd, NW5 3PT, 0207428 8940). Hosting three site-specific exhibitions a year, this big,bright, beautiful former Methodistchapel opened in 2007 and is nowwell established as a leading northLondon art venue. There’s a libraryand fine arty café on site too.

Primrose Hill

A curious hush descends when youcross the railway footbridge fromChalk Farm Road into PrimroseHill, the single link that joins rowdyCamden to one of London’s mostcharming urban villages. The main shopping street is

Regent’s Park Road, where you’llfind a branch of Mary Portas’supmarket charity shop Mary’sLiving and Giving (109 Regent’sPark Rd, NW1 9UR, 020 7586 9966),which supports Save the Childrenand plays Radio 4 while youexplore. Further up towards thepark, kitchenware shop RichardDare (93 Regent’s Park Rd, NW18UR 020 7722 9428) is a treasuretrove of desirable accessories,linens and gadgets. Stop atPrimrose Hill Gallery (81 Regent’sPark Rd, NW1 8UY, 020 7586 3533)for a look a their well-chosen range

CAMDEN TOWN

NW1 7HJ, 020 7485 9958), whileMegaCity Comics (18 InvernessSt, NW1 7HJ, 020 7485 9320) catersto collectors of another kind. Forfood, try gourmet burger barHaché (24 Inverness St, NW1 7HJ,020 7485 9100), or Made in Brasil(12 Inverness St, NW1 7HJ, 0207482 0777), where you can washdown your Rio street food with anicy caipirinha.

Chalk Farm Road andaround Camden Lock

The area north of the canal is wheremuch of the serious partying goes on.The Hawley Arms (2 CastlehavenRd, NW1 8QU, 020 7428 5979) has inrecent years become known as therock ’n’ roller’s watering hole ofchoice, and you might still spot afamous face lurking in the crowd.Further up on Chalk Farm Road,opposite the Stables Market, theLock Tavern (35 Chalk Farm Rd,NW1 8AJ, 020 7482 7163) lures in ayoung hipster crowd by matching adecent DJ bar with a leafy rooftopgarden. A step or two further on,Barfly (49 Chalk Farm Rd, NW1

2 tickets for the price of 1onany Friday or Saturday showat the Highlight ComedyClubbefore Christmas2012. Call 0844 844 0044to book before September 1,quoting code CAMRO241 toredeem this voucher. Visitwww.thehighlight.co.uk/camden for listings.

2-for-1 comedy

8AN, 020 7688 8994) is a keystopping-off point for music lovers.Ex-Libertine Carl Barat hosts theJubilee club night on Friday nights,with live bands upstairs.Across the road, the biggest beast

on the Camden culture scene is theRoundhouse (Chalk Farm Rd,NW1 8EH, 020 7424 9991), a venue

The Roundhouse

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delicious treat, or you can takeaway from the smart next-door deliMelrose and Morgan (42Gloucester Ave, NW1 8JD, 020 77220011, see offer p20), where you’llfind top-quality charcuterie,preserves and pickles plusdelicious sweet pastries. There’s anold-fashioned fishmonger here too,winningly called Fishmonger (75aGloucester Ave, NW1 8LD, 0207483 4435), where the tantalisingwares pile up on ice chippingsbegging to be taken home.

Kentish Town Road and Camden Road

As a general rule, the further westyou go in Camden, the more livelythings get; the more south and eastyou go, the less likely you are tobump into a celeb or a member of anextreme fashion tribe. Heading due north from Camden

Town tube, up Kentish TownRoad, you walk the boundarybetween these two zones; theunlovely Sainsbury’s car park ishere, but then so is the HobgoblinCamden (33 Kentish Town Rd, 0207284 0562) – the legendary gothpub once called the DevonshireArms and still almost universallyreferred to as the Dev. If you’re shoe shopping, look out

of prints and pictures, or drop intoPrimrose Hill Books (134 Regent’sPark Rd, NW1 8XL, 020 7586 2022),which specialises in rare andcollectable editions. Foodies are well catered for, too.

Anthony’s Deli (146 Regent’s ParkRd, NW1 8XN, 020 7722 9246) isstuffed with Italian goodies andSesame (128 Regent’s Park Rd,NW1 8XL, 020 7586 3779) sellsorganic wholefoods, whileShepherd Foods (59-61 Regent’sPark Rd, NW1 8XD, 020 7586 4592)stocks everyday groceries as wellas delicatessen items, seasonalspecialities and a wide range of USproducts – popular with Americanexpats missing their Vlasic picklesor Welch’s grape jelly. For lunch or dinner, the classic

destinations are classy Greek grillLimonia (89 Regent’s Park Rd,NW1 8UY, 020 7586 7454) and, forspecial occasions, Bryn Williams’sacclaimed Modern EuropeanOdette’s (130 Regent’s Park Rd,NW1 8XL, 020 7586 8569).Gloucester Avenue has some of

the area’s big destinations. CecilSharp House (2 Regent’s Park Rd,NW1 7AY, 020 7485 2206), home ofthe English Folk Dance and SongSociety, hosts live music and wasvoted London’s second-best musicvenue by Time Out readers thisyear. Further up, The Engineer

(65 Gloucester Ave, NW1 8JH, 0207722 0950) is a local landmark thatwas recently refurbished andboasts one of the prettiest pubgardens in the area. A visit to Sardinian restaurant

Sardo Canale (42 Gloucester Ave,NW1 8JD, 020 7722 2800) is a

for the British Boot Company (5Kentish Town Rd, NW1 8NH, 0207485 8505), in business since 1851,which sells every style of DocMartens from the no-nonsense to theflowery. Across the road, theMango Room (10-12 Kentish TownRd, NW1 8NH, 020 7482 5065) is apopular Caribbean restaurant, andin a commanding position on thecorner of Kentish Town Road andCamden Road, the Camden Eye (2Kentish Town Rd, NW1 9NX, 0207267 2622) is a grown-up boozerstylishly rigged out in Fornasettiwallpaper downstairs and with acomfy ‘kissing lounge’ upstairs,which hosts poetry, comedy andmusic nights. Across the junction, awhole corner is dominated by theenormous World’s Endpub andUnderworld club below (174Camden High St, NW1 0NE, 0207482 1932). Not the place for a quietpint, this venue is a magnet for out-of-towners, though downstairs theatmosphere is more hardcore, with amusic programme favouring thenoise/metal end of the spectrum.Just off Camden Road on Bayham

Street you’ll find another venue thatprides itself on its lack of fluff: thepub Brewdog (113 Bayham St,NW1 0BA, 020 7284 0453). Youcome here for the beer: the Scottishmicrobrewery cooks up magical

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potions with names like ParadoxSmokehead, Trashy Blonde andTactical Nuclear Penguin (whichclaims to be the world’s strongestbeer). If that’s not authentic enoughfor you, head up Camden Road toCastle’s Pie Shop (229 RoyalCollege St, NW1 9LT, 020 74852196), one of the last surviving pieand mash caffs in London. Thereyou can sample the delights of meatpies and parsley liquor – or evenjellied eels – among the imitationteak-panelled retro ’70s decor.

Camden LockAs well as pleasant waterside walks heading east to King’s Cross andwest to Little Venice via London Zoo, the Regent’s Canal is a featureof Camden Town itself. Walking north up Camden High Street,duckdown to the towpath to your right when you pass over the bridge andyou’re in Camden Lock Village Market, where enthusiastic noodle-vendors compete to tempt you away from the array of Asian streetfood, burgers and pizzas all sizzling in a long row. Take a seat on oneof the sawn-off Vespa half-scooters parked along the canal (or ascaled-down Trafalgar Square lion) and watch the world go by on thetowpath below as you eat.Pass underneath the bridge and you’re in Camden Lock Market.

This part of the Lock is presided over by Dingwalls (11 East Yard,Chalk Farm Rd, NW1 8AB, 0844 844 0044), which hosts live musicand club nights, in a complex that includes the Highlight comedyclub (see offer, p8) and Lock 17 bar. The equally popular LocksideLoungevenue (75-78 West Yard, Chalk Farm Rd, NW1 8AF, 020 72840007) has its own eclectic line-up from bluegrass to hip hop. A stroll down the towpath is a joy, or you can book a narrowboat

trip to Little Venice with Jenny Wren (250 Camden High St, NW18QS, 020 7485 4433). Don’t assume the Pirate Castle (Oval Rd, NW17EA, 020 7267 6605) is an activity centre for kids only – adults canlearn kayaking too, and once you’ve finished the course you can headout on the water on your own.The Lock’s main draw, though, is the variety of shops and stalls

(see The markets, this page).

tourist attractions and rightlyfamous as a breeding ground foralternative trends. Heading north up Camden High

Street from the tube station, thetightly packed outdoor market(confusingly just called CamdenMarket) on the corner of BuckStreet is the first to beckon you in. It’s a good place to find colourful one-off fashions and T-shirts, though more serious style hunters usually bypass it infavour of music venue the ElectricBallroom (184 Camden High St,NW1 8QP, 020 7485 9006), whichhosts designers, jewellery makers,vintage hawkers, tarot readers and vinyl merchants at theweekend. Across the road, theweekday fruit and veg vendors ofInverness Street Marketmake

CAMDEN TOWN

Present this guide atparticipating businesses in Camden for offers,discounts and treats fromlocal independent shops and businesses – look outfor the Wedge Card sticker inwindows. See www.TurningCamdenON.com for moredetails and a full list of offers.

Wedge Card

The markets

In 1972, disused warehouses atCamden Lock, including T EDingwall’s timber yard, wereleased to craft workshops, andsoon after, a weekend market wasestablished, with shops and stallsselling clothes, food and antiques.It became so popular that by themid ’80s, three other markets hadopened along Chalk Farm Road,and Camden’s market district isnow one of the capital’s biggest Proud Camden

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way for more clothes stalls atweekends.The hub of the market scene is a

quick saunter further north, pastshops with massive 3-D hoardingsadvertising clothes, shoes, tattoosand piercings, to where the streetcrosses the canal. To your right isCamden Lock Village Marketand on your left is the labyrinthineCamden Lock Market (for both,see Camden Lock box, p10). The Lock’s main draw is the

variety of shops and stalls. EastYard consists of a square courtyard surrounded on threesides by a Victorian marketbuilding. The vibe here is global;shops like Araucaria (4 CamdenLock Place, Chalk Farm Rd, NW18AL, 020 7267 2707) sell fairlytraded ethnic staples like throws,rugs and incense, while indoorstalls heave with amber and jadejewellery. Connected by an overhead

walkway, West Yard specialises in homegrown eccentricity, withvendors such as the family-runVillage Games (65 West Yard,Chalk Farm Rd, NW1 8AF, 020 74850653), selling board games and old-fashioned toys. Upstairs, ThePiano Shop (West Yard, ChalkFarm Rd, NW1 8AF) sells a widerange of sheet music and the owner

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can often be found giving animpromptu recital. Head north again and you’ll find

yourself bumping into giant horsestatues at every turn: a good signthat you’ve found your way to theStables Market on the left-handside. Gigantic statements are thetrademark of Camden, and thetheme is carried on by three of themust-see destinations here.Extreme cyber fashion emporiumCyberdog (Stables Market, ChalkFarm Rd, NW1 8AH, 020 7482 2842)is flanked by –what else – twotowering cyborgs, the huge pan-Asian bar-restaurant Gilgamesh(Stables Market, Chalk Farm Rd,NW1 8AH, 020 7428 4922) is framedby massive chunks of intricately

carved timber, and the hit Africanrestaurant Shaka Zulu (StablesMarket, Chalk Farm Rd, NW1 8AH,020 3376 9911) is guarded by hugebronze warriors. The Stables is the place to come

for goth outfits, pin-up-stylefashion and a wide range of vintageclothing, from formalwear toleather coats and army surplus, aswell as stylish vintage homewares.It’s also home to Alchemy yogacentre (Stables Market, Chalk FarmRd, NW1 8AH, 020 7267 6188),which has a juice bar and café. Arecent addition is Old Timesphotostudio (Stables Market, Chalk FarmRd, NW1 8AH) where you can haveyour portrait taken in Tudor, WildWest or other fabulous costumes.Here, too, you’ll find Proud

Camden (The Horse Hospital,Stables Market, Chalk Farm Rd,NW1 8AH, 020 7482 3867). Aphotography gallery and laid-backbar by day and a hip live venue bynight, Proud also has a supper clubrestaurant hosting burlesque andcabaret shows, and a glassed-interrace café with great views of thebusy High Street below. ANDREEA FROM OLD TIMES PHOTO

STUDIO, STABLES MARKET‘I like InSpiral, everything is organic,they make great smoothies and theyhave music and writing events everySunday. I like the culture of Camden,there’s everything for every taste.’

The perfect companion for a trip to Camden Town, thisfree app from Camden TownUnlimited guides you aroundto find exactly what you’relooking for. Includingrecommendations fromdesigner Wayne Hemingway,TV chef Andy Bates andMadness frontman Suggs,the app helps you discoverthe local secrets to find thebest shopping, eating andmusic, as well as specialWedge Card offers. The appis available in English,Italian and Japanese. Go toiTunes and search ‘CamdenTown’ to download it.

Camden Market

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FREECAMDEN TOWN APP

wonderful British restaurantoffering seasonal menus. There’san oyster bar here, too. Or try The Gilbert Scottwithin

the Renaissance Hotel (020 72783888) part of the main stationbuilding. Here chef MarcusWareing’s team has put together a fine British menu, served inopulent brasserie surroundings.Great for afternoon tea and forcocktails, too. (See offer, above.)

Around King’s Crossstation

Within the station itself you cannow stock up on luxuriousskincare treats at Kheils (0207278 8476) or women’sfashions, jewellery andhomeware gifts at OliverBonas (020 7837 6467), orfind a classic novel atWatermark Books (020 77137900). Harry Potter fans canalso get their photo taken by thesign for ‘Platform 93⁄4’…On Euston Road opposite the

station you’ll see one of London’snewest restaurants. Karpo (23-29

KING’S CROSS

King’s Cross

With Eurostar services leaving St Pancras Internationalstation for cities in mainland Europe, the King’s Crossarea is developing fast. Now its mix of old London andnew feels more like the 10th arrondissement of Parisaround the Gare du Nord than a busy commercialtraffic route just north of the West End! Explore westbeyond St Pancras or east around King’s Crossstation for live music, ancient manuscripts, greatcakes and world cuisines…

St Pancras International

At St Pancras station, there is lotsto do beyond just catching trains.In the lovingly refurbishedwarren of hallways you’ll findpopular shopping nameslike Cath Kidston, Fossil,LK Bennett,Hamleysand Neal’s YardRemedies.There are also great

places to eat and drink.For quick feeds,Carluccio’s (020 72787449) and Des Vins Caféand Wine Bar (020 77138730) are good choices, but forsomething special, St PancrasGrand (020 7870 9900) reflects thestation’s glamorous past, with a


At this brasserie and bar atthe St Pancras RenaissanceHotel get two courses fromthe set menu for £19orthree for £23. Specific timesapply, call 020 7278 3888.Show this guide for a free‘1873’ cocktail when dining.

Dine for £19 atThe Gilbert Scott

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The British LibraryAlmost next door to St Pancras station, the British Library is astunning modern building not only used for academic archivesand studies, but also open daily to the public, with free access toits galleries. The Sir John Ritblat Gallery, for example, includessome of the most incredible historical texts, including MagnaCarta, Leonardo’s notebooks and Shakespeare’s Quartos andFirst Folio, as well as musical manuscripts from Handel to TheBeatles. The British Library hosts regular free and ticketedevents and exhibitions (see offer, p14), but it’s also just a lovelyplace to wander or to chill out with a coffee, in one of the threeindoor cafés or the square in front of the building.British Library, 96 Euston Rd, NW1 2DB (020 7412 7332).

spacious traditional pub with agreat English ‘tapas’ menu forlight eats, and main meals likemoules and handmade burgers.Euston Road has quite a few

cultural gems as unexpected as theBritish Library (see box, above). Heading west from the British

Library, just across OssulstonStreet you will see the modernexterior of the Novotel. Underneaththis hotel the Shaw Theatrehostsregular showsand one-off spokenword events (100-110 Euston Rd,NW1 2AJ, 0844 248 5075).Walk on a few minutes more on

the same side of the road, and‘hidden’ on the ground floor of theUnison offices you’ll find the newElizabeth Garrett AndersonGallery (126-144, Euston Rd, NW12AP). Free to visit, it’s a smallmuseum dedicated to the life andwork of the first woman to qualifyas a doctor in the UK. Across the

Euston Rd, NW1 2SD, 020 78432221) is a welcoming place with aneclectic global menu, from Finnishsmoked eel to harissa chicken andEccles cakes. It’s open daily from7am to 11pm, so you can try it forbreakfast, lunch, dinner oranything in between.Heading north from King’s

Cross station, King’s Boulevard isa pedestrian walkway leading toCentral Saint Martins (GranarySquare, off Goods Way, N1C 4AA).This famous art college is onGranary Square, where studentsand public alike can chill out andwhere there are regular events.Also near here, at King’s CrossFilling Station, Shrimpy’s (GoodsWay, N1C 4UR, 020 8880 6111) is apan-South American diner from theteam behind Bistrotheque.Just five minutes’ walk west of

here, along Goods Way then upCamley Street, you’ll find CamleyStreet Natural Park, a charmingnature reserve which offers a wildopen space alongside the Regent’sCanal (12 Camley St, N1C 4PW020 7833 2311).

Chalton Street andEuston Road

There are other good placesnearby for meeting friends or a pitstop – west, towards EustonStation. The Rocket on the cornerof Chalton Street (120 Euston Rd,NW1 2AL, 020 7388 0021) is lightand airy. A couple of minutes’walk north, Somers Town CoffeeHouse (60 Chalton St, NW1 1HS,020 7387 7377) is a cosy yet

road, venture into St PancrasChurch, where theCrypt Galleryshows a varied programme ofcontemporary art (Euston Rd, NW12BA, 020 7388 1461). Here you arejust a couple of minutes from ThePlace dance studio, which hostsregular performances as well astraining for all ages (17 Duke’s Road,WC1H 9PY, 020 7121 1100). On Euston Road, continue west on

the same side of the road as the CryptGallery, past the grand FriendsMeeting House. This Quakercentre has in its time hosted talks byguests as diverse as BertrandRussell and Mohandas Gandhi, andhas a pleasant café and restaurant.Further on you come to theWellcome Collection. TheWellcome Trust is the world’sleading charitable foundationfunding research into human andanimal health, and the Collection(183 Euston Rd, NW1 2BE, 020 7611


KING’S CROSS

JEFFREYAT THE BRITISHLIBRARY‘It’s a really goodmeeting place,especially if you’reinterested inliterature andculture, or localhistory. Theexhibitions aregreat and I like thecafés and publicspaces.’

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with a clutch of independent shops,secondhand bookstores and cafés.The deli and patisserie Fork

(85 Marchmont St, WC1N 1AL, 020 7738 7286) and, further down, 49 Cafe (49 Marchmont St, WC1N1AP) are perfect for something light and quick to eat, but if youfancy a more substantial meal, tryItalian restaurant Balfour (75-77Marchmont St, WC1N 1AP, 0207713 6111) or Vegetarian’sParadise Bhel Poori House (59Marchmont St, WC1N 1AP, 0207278 6881).There are a few good pubs here,

including the Norfolk Arms, justoff the top end of Marchmont Street(28 Leigh St, WC1H 9EP, 020 73883937). This pub is acclaimed for itsChutneys (124 Drummond St,

NW1 2PA, 020 7388 0604). Follow Drummond Street to its

corner with Hampstead Road andyou come to Camden People’sTheatre (58-60 Hampstead Rd,NW1 2PY, 020 7419 4841), whichhosts regular innovativecontemporary theatre in its 60-seater auditorium.

Marchmont Street

Across Euston Road from theBritish Library, head down intoCartwright Gardens and you cometo the top of Marchmont Street,

KING’S CROSS

2222) is a free gallery with regularevents and exhibitions dedicated tomedicine and the body. Around the corner from the

Collection, the BloomsburyTheatre (15 Gordon St, WC1H 0AH,020 7388 8822) presents live comedy,theatre or dance most nights.

Euston station andDrummond Street

Face Euston station from the mainroad and you will notice one of itsoriginal stone gateway pillars hasbeen converted into the EustonTap bar (190 Euston Rd, NW12EF). With outdoor tables, greatbeers and a menu of New York-style pizzas, it’s a little-known gemthat busy commuters often miss. Further west along Euston

Road, turn up Melton Street. Here,the second turning on the left isDrummond Street, home to manyAsian sweet shops, grocers andrestaurants. Highlights include the vegetarian cuisine served up at Diwana Bhel Poori House(121-123 Drummond St, NW1 2HL,020 7387 5556) – much loved byregulars for decades. For fantasticvalue vegetarian Asian buffets, try


JULIET AT THE BRUNSWICK CENTRE‘I’m a cyclist, I live in Camden Townand work in Covent Garden. I have agreat route into work on the cyclepath, I cut through the back of AgarGrove, past the railway line and comeout by Camley Street Natural Park.’

£2 off tickets for the WritingBritainexhibition – exploringthe connection betweenlandscape and literature,from Blake to JK Rowling.Present this guide at the boxoffice to claim your discount.

£2 off at theBritish Library

The Wellcome Collection

Friends Meeting House

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AMY & FRIENDS AT ST PANCRAS‘I like Russell Square, it’s near myuniversity and it’s a peaceful spot incentral London, and the BrunswickCentre is good for a bit of Europeancafé culture.’

Spanish menu. Or try the MarquisCornwallis (31 Marchmont St,WC1N 1AP, 020 7278 8355), whichhas regular DJ nights.There is a real village feel to

Marchmont Street,with regularcommunity events in the street andin the small gardens just north ofthe Brunswick Centre (see p19). The stores are wonderfully

diverse – from the organic veganand vegetarian grocery and beautystore Alara (58-60 Marchmont St,WC1N 1AB, 020 7837 1172,www.alarashop.com, see offer p18)to Gay’s the Word (66 MarchmontSt, WC1N 1AB, 020 7278 7654),which stocks gay and lesbianbooks and DVDs and hosts eventsand discussion groups.

Gray’s Inn Road

Just to the east of King’s Crossstation, the distinctive old cinemabuilding called the Scala sits justabove the top end of Gray’s InnRoad. Nowadays the venue is hometo live music, comedy and clubnights (275 Pentonville Rd, N1 9NL,020 7833 2022). Head down the lanenext to the Scala and you come to06 St Chad’s Place (WC1X 9HH,020 7278 3355), a former Victorianworkshop space converted into anairy, funky bar and restaurant. Monto Water Ratsmusic pub

is just a couple of minutes’ walksouth (328 Gray’s Inn Rd, WC1X8BZ, 020 3589 5983), with live bandsevery night, from rock, pop andfolk to metal and techno. Just off Gray’s Inn Road, a walk

down Britannia Street brings you

to the Gagosian Gallery (6-24Britannia St, WC1X 9JD, 020 78419960), part of an international chainof galleries, with a changing line-up of major contemporary artists. Or stroll further south down

Gray’s Inn Road and turn left ontoActon Street, where you will findthe wonderful Workgallery (10aActon St, WC1X 9NG, 020 77135097). This is an independent artsspace presenting work in the fieldsof art, architecture and design.

East of King’s Cross

Walk five minutes north up YorkWay and you’ll see Kings Placeon


KING’S CROSS

your right (90 York Way, N1 9AG,020 7520 1490). The ground floorand the levels below it are an artsspace with a busy theatre and threeexcellent, free to visit art galleries.Grab a coffee from the venue’sGreen & Fortune Café or visit itsRotundabar and restaurant whichoverlooks the pretty canal boats onBattlebridge Basin. Across thewater you can see the LondonCanal Museum (12-13 New WharfRd, N1 9RT, 020 7713 0836). Just off Pentonville Road you’ll

find Regents Quarter, a tucked-away little complex with three greatbars. Camino is a lively lounge andrestaurant with authentic Spanishfood (3 Varnishers Yard, N1 9FD,020 7841 7331), Bar Pepito is acosy Andalucian-themedbar, andVOC is a 17th-century inspiredpunch house (2 Varnishers Yard,N1 9AW, 020 7713 8229).Walk through onto Caledonian

Road and on your left is Drink,Shop & Do (9 Caledonian Rd, N19DX, 020 7278 4335). The shop sellsgifts and sweets and at the backthere’s a cute retro tearoom. In theevening it’s a lively bar. Everythingin the place is for sale – even thechair you’re sitting on!

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restaurants. Here Jamie Oliver andChris Bianco have opened the retrodiner Union Jacks (4 Central StGiles Piazza, WC2H 8AB, 020 35977888), offering starters and pizza-style flatbreads using qualityregional British meat, fish and veg,and serving cider, perry, ales andEnglish wines. There’s also a branchof Zizzi (8 Central St Giles Piazza,WC2H 8LA, 020 7240 8447), whichhosts live music on Thursday nights.For a daytime break, grab a coffeeand agourmet fairy cake at Peytonand Byrne (1 St Giles High St,WC2H 8AG, 020 3422 1451). On St Giles High Street, facethe church across the road andto your right is DenmarkStreet. Once known as TinPan Alley, where musiciansincluding the RollingStones and the Sex Pistolsplayed and recorded, it isstill crammed with shopsselling sheet music and

instruments. It’s home to theexcellent 12 Bar Club (26

DenmarkSt, WC2H 8NL, 020 72402622). Set in old converted stablebuildings behind the shops, the 12

To the east of Tottenham Court Road and north ofNew Oxford Street, central London slows down. Awayfrom West End theatreland and big-name stores, hereyou’ll find fascinating galleries and independent shops,old pubs, an outdoor swimming pool… plus two rowdyrock musicals and the British Museum!

Around St Giles

Walking east from TottenhamCourt Road towards Holborn, youenter the area of ‘Midtown’ –Bloomsbury, Holborn and StGiles. Here Paramountrestaurant and bar sits atthe top of the Centre Pointtower (101-103 NewOxford St, WC1A 1DD,020 7420 2900), with threefloors of dining anddrinking, perfect for 360-degree views of the city. Just behind here you’ll see

the most obvious newMidtown landmark, thecolourful Renzo Piano-designedoffice block Central Saint Giles,set around a courtyard of shops and


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Covering everything fromliterary and political historyto the criminal and musicalpast of the area, free guidedwalks set off at 1pm fromthe orange inmidtown kioskoutside Holborn tube stationand last around 45 minutes.No need to book, just turn up.See www.inmidtown.org/walks for more details.

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Just off here, the CartoonMuseum (35 Little Russell St,WC1A 2HH, 020 7580 8155) is apopular archive of comic drawingsand caricatures and moderngraphic talent. They have regularspecial exhibitions and a great littleshop at the front. A couple of doorsaway, try lunch at Pizza Express(30 Coptic St, WC1A 1NS, 020 76363232). This was the second everbranch to open and still has a real1967 feel to its funky décor.

Great Russell Street

It’s hard to miss the imposing GreekRevival columns of the BritishMuseum on Great Russell Street(see box, p18). However, this roadrunning from Tottenham CourtRoad to Southampton Row has a lot

Bar presents gigs and DJ nightsand its bar is open in the daytime.

High Holborn and New Oxford Street

Heading east towards Holborn, theShaftesbury Theatre (210Shaftesbury Avenue, WC2H 8DP,020 7379 5399) stands in the middleof a busy road junction. If you likethe Queen-themed musical ‘We WillRock You’ at the nearby DominionTheatre (268-269 Tottenham CourtRd, W1T 7AQ, 0844 847 1775) thenthe romping 1980s-fest ‘Rock ofAges’ at the Shaftesbury is for you.By tranquil contrast, the Oasis

Sports Centre across the road (32 Endell St, WC2H 9AG, 020 78311804) includes an indoor pool and a fabulous rooftop outdoor pool,fitness facilities and squash courts. Cross the road and head north to

New Oxford Street. Turn left andyou’ll find lots of places to get asandwich, pizza or something moreexotic. The Old Crownpub makesfor a good excuse to stop for food anddrink (33 New Oxford St, WC1A1BH, 020 7836 9121). Tuesday nightis ’50s night, with 2-for-1 deals onburgers, live DJing, Wii bowling andthe chance to sample their alcoholicshakes and ice cream floats.

Museum Street

Cross the road from the Old Crownand the short street ahead of youleads to the British Museum. Thisis Museum Street, which bustleswith interesting little shops.Edwards & Todd (25a Museum St,WC1A 1JU, 020 7636 4650) is awonderful boutique to browse forscented gifts, artists’ prints andjewellery, as well as lovinglysourced cards and curiosities.Opposite, theCamera Café (44Museum St, WC1A 1LY, 07887 930826) offers fresh juices, coffee andsnacks in a cosy spot at the back ofAperture photographic shop. OnMuseum Street you can also findhandmade knitwear, vintage-styleleather satchels, antiques andcontemporary art.

more to it than just the UK’s mostvisited attraction…Hotels with great restaurants for

lunch include the Kenilworth’s sleekModern British restaurant and barCreation (97 Great Russell St,WC1B 3LB, 020 7666 2068), andopposite, the Bloomsbury StreetHotel Bar and Restaurantwith its European menu and sumptuousafternoon teas (9-13 Bloomsbury St,WC1B 3QD, 020 8817 0944). There are also some great little

bookshops to browse, including theesteemed antiquarian booksellersJarndyce (46 Great Russell St,WC1B 3PA, 020 7631 4220) oppositethe British Museum, and ArthurProbsthain (41 Great Russell St,WC1B 3PE, 020 7636 1096). Stophere for a while and enjoy a cuppa attheir café, Tea and Tattle.Between the many souvenir

shops near the British Museumthere are some great shops sellingreproductions and original work,like the Contemporary CeramicsCentre (63 Great Russell St, WC1B3BF, 020 7242 9644) and It’s AllGreek (65 Great Russell St, WC1B3BL, 020 7242 6224). At the corner of Bury Place you’ll

see the Georgian courtyard PiedBull Yard. When the sun shines, sitout and drink at the wine barTruckles (WC1A 2JR, 020 74045338). There are a couple of smallgalleries here, too.

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FRANCES AT THE BRITISH MUSEUM‘I love the buildings in Bloomsbury,and the Victorian pubs like theMuseum Tavern and the Plough –it was an actors’ pub and it used tobe called the Baby’s Bottom! I’mfascinated by all the history here.’

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WC1A 2QH, 020 7831 2715), theinformal sister café of Michelin-recommended vegetarianrestaurant Vanilla Black.On Southampton Row the many

specialist shops include Falkiner(76 Southampton Row, WC1B 4AR,020 7831 1151), which stocksbeautiful stationery and runscourses on topics from calligraphyto making pop-up cards.Walk north towards Russell

Square and duck into an alley calledCosmo Place. Here there is a row ofgreat little restaurants where you

can dine outside. The alley opensout onto the peaceful Queen Square.The Queens Larderon the corner (1 Queen Square, WC1N 3AR, 0207837 5627) is a tiny, friendly pub. Tothe south end of the square, walk fora couple of minutes to the OctoberGallery (24 Old Gloucester St,WC1N 3AL, 020 7242 7367). Hereart exhibitions are presented

Walk further along Great RussellStreet and you come to BloomsburySquare with its small playground.Tucked away down steps to thebasement of Victoria House is thebowling alley All Star Lanes(Bloomsbury Place, WC1B 4DA, 0207025 2676). Designed in classic 1950sAmerican style and serving foodand drink, it’s a subterranean gem.

Holborn and Midtown

Turn right at the end of GreatRussell Street and walk to Holbornstation. From here, head east alongHigh Holborn. On your right theUniversity of the Arts Gallery(272 High Holborn, WC1V 7EY,020 7514 2300) is an art space withfree exhibitions. Keep walking andafter Chancery Lane station you

come to the jewellery quarterHatton Garden. Or head southpast Holborn station and turn offKingsway for Sir John Soane’sMuseum (13 Lincoln’s Inn Fields,WC2A 3BP, 020 7405 2107). The stretch from King’s Cross to

the Thames is full of museums.Discover more at www.museum-mile.org.uk, or see the OrangeMidtown information kiosk byHolborn station. Free walks leavehere at 1pm daily (see offer p16,www.inmidtown.org).

Southampton Row andRussell Square

Southampton Row is a busy mainroad that throngs with hotels andrestaurants. Highlights near hereinclude Orchard (11 Sicilian Ave,

The British MuseumOpened in 1759 as the world’s first national public museum, its twomillion artefacts tell the story of the world’s oldest civilisations, butit’s also one of London’s best contemporary attraction experiences.When the Norman Foster-designed Great Courtopened in 2000, ithailed a new era. The spectacular glass roof stretching over thefamous Reading Room has given the central concourse a clean, airyfeel, with light pouring onto bright new Portland stone.

Schoolkids flock to the Greek and Roman treasuresand visitorscome to gaze on the beautiful objects in the Americas, Egypt, AsiaandMiddle Eastgalleries. The museum is free to visit, and there arefree talks and toursand ticketed special exhibitions, as well as freeactivities for children. It’s open until 8.30pm on Fridays,with specialevents, screenings and tours of artefacts like the Rosetta StoneorParthenon sculptures, as well as food and drink. After a dip into theexhibitions, you can lounge in the gardens in front of the museum, orvisit one of its cafés; the Court Restaurant, upstairs under the glassroof, serves Modern European dishes and excellent afternoon tea.British Museum, Great Russell St, WC1B 3DG (020 7323 8299,www.britishmuseum.org) Tottenham Court Road tube. Adm free.

At Alara, spend over £5 onfood from the deli bar andget a free tea or filter coffee,or buy any pre-packagedfood and get a free cake ofthe day. Offer runs July 27to September 8.

Free drink &cake at Alara

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alongside talks and events withpoets, writers and commentators.Back out on Southampton Row,

head north to Russell Square, aspacious leafy oasis with afountain and a café. Facing thesquare, the Wiener Library for theStudy of the Holocaust & Genocide(29 Russell Square, WC1B 5DP, 0207636 7247) has collected writing,photographs and testimonies. Off the north-west corner of the

square is the School of Oriental andAfrican Studies. See art at itsBrunei Gallery for free, and spendcontemplative time in the Japanese-inspired roof garden (ThornhaughSt, WC1H0XG, 020 7637 2388).

Brunswick Centre

At this development oppositeRussell Square tube, the crowdsspill out after a movie at the Renoircinema (0330 500 1331) to dine at theBrunswick Centre’s many goodrestaurants (including Carluccio’s,Giraffe, and the Japanese/pan-Asian diner Hare & Tortoise). For daytime shopping there are

plenty of fashion options here too,including Coast and FrenchConnection. Bookworms beat a path to Skoob Books (66 TheBrunswick, off Marchmont St,WC1N 1AE, 020 7278 8760), one ofLondon’s best second-handbookstores. For details of all stores,check www.brunswick.co.uk.Take a five-minute walk round

the corner to Coram’s Fields (93Guilford St, WC1N 1DN, 020 7837

6138). It’s a park you can only visitif you are accompanied by a child,and it has sandpits, water featuresand even a few farm animals. South of here, Lamb’s Conduit

Street is a row of little shops, cafésand the beautiful old pub The Lamb( 94 Lambs Conduit St, WC1N 3LZ,020 7405 0713, see offer above).Just north of Coram’s Fields, the

Foundling Museum (40 BrunswickSquare, WC1N 1AZ, 020 7841 3600),tells the history of the FoundlingHospital, opened in 1739 to take inorphans and abandoned children.There is an archive dedicated to

Handel, who performed benefitconcerts for the hospital, and worksof art by the likes of Hogarth.

Around Gower Street

West of the British Museum,Gower Street runs south fromEuston Road. Along here theRoyal Academy of DramaticArt (RADA, 62-64 Gower St,WC1E 6ED, 020 7636 7076) opensits doors for regular public events. The Grant Museum, nearby, is

a free zoological museum withskeletons, mounted animals andspecimens (Rockefeller Building,UCL, 21 University St, WC1E 6DE,020 3108 2052). Also free to visit,the Petrie Museum (UCL, GowerSt, WC1E 6BT, 020 7679 2000) hasa vast collection of Egyptian andSudanese archaeology.Off Gower Street is the tree-lined

Store Street. Grab lunch at OlivelliItalian restaurant (35 Store St,WC1E 7BS, 020 7255 2554) or tryBusaba Eathai for Thai cuisine(22 Store St, WC1E 7DS). Acrossthe road at the New LondonArchitecture offices (26 Store St,WC1E 7BT, 020 7636 4044) there’sa lovely café and an amazing scalemodel of London to look at.Further down Gower Street, turn

right for sports facilities at theCentral YMCA (112 Great RussellSt, WC1B 3NQ, 020 7343 1700).

LEO, BRITTANY & ALINA AT RUSSELL SQUARE‘We like to spend time together at the weekends. Russell Square is a good place for relaxing. It’s nice forBrittany, we just got her an ice cream.’

Petrie Museum

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Classic London pub TheLamb on Lamb’s ConduitStreet dates from 1729.Present this guide on anyday except Sunday for a 10 per cent discount on allfood and drink.

10% off at The Lamb

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to Hampstead Heath, lined withchic boutiques like CoChineChine(74 Heath St, NW3 1DN, 020 74359377) and independent shops liketoys and games emporium TheHundred Acres (82 Heath St, NW31DN, 020 7794 2781), which alsoruns classes and has a café.Turning back down the hill,

Heath Street continues below thetube station. Urban Den (16-18Heath St, NW3 6TE, 020 74316002) is a quirky andfabulously eclectic giftshop and well-lovedboutique Miriam Londonstocks sought-after andexclusive label clothes andaccessories (10 Heath St,NW3 6TE, 020 7794 6311).Look out for the alley linedwith hanging baskets at theentrance to HampsteadAntique & Craft Emporium(12 Heath St, NW3 6TE, 020 77943297), where the Antique TextilesCo sells beautiful rare quilts andtextiles and the Button Lady sellsexquisite antique buttons.Heath Street is a good place to

find a decent pub. The CamdenTown Brewery started in the cellar

Hampstead High Streetand Heath Street

Walking out of Hampsteadtube station, turn left andyou’re walking downpretty Hampstead HighStreet, full of designerchains like Kurt Geiger(30 Hampstead High St,NW3 1QA, 020 7794 4290)and Nicole Farhi (27Hampstead High St, NW31QA, 020 7435 0866). Along here, on the left hand

side, you’ll see Flask Walk, apretty little passage with second-hand bookshops and other lovelyone-offs like Judy Green’s GardenStore (11 Flask Walk NW3 1HJ,020 7435 3832). The Flaskpub (14Flask Walk, NW3 1HG, 020 74354580) serves very good pub grub

Hampstead & HighgateHAMPSTEAD & HIGHGATE

Order a delicious Picnic forTwo from Melrose andMorgan in Primrose Hill orHampstead this summer(July 27-Sept 9) and get 25%discounton presentation ofthis guide. Call 020 74851600 to order (48 hoursnotice required).

25% off apicnic for two

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and ales. Grab a spot by the picturewindow and watch the world go by.Turn right out of the tube station

and Heath Street winds up the hill

A trip to Hampstead or Highgate, perched on hilltopson either side of Hampstead Heath, is like escaping tothe country but with all the good things about Londonwithin strolling distance along pretty lanes or tuckedaway in courtyards. As well as great pubs and smartboutiques, you’ll find arts, history and natural beauty.

020 7431 0144), which contains anart gallery and a small local historymuseum and puts on regularclassical concerts. On sunny daysthe terrace tables are served by itsButtery café. From here, walk straight down

to 2 Willow Road, the modernistarchitect’s Ernö Goldfinger’s 1930shome (NW3 1TH, 020 7435 6166),where you can take a guided tourbetween 11am and 2pm or browsebetween 3 and 5pm. Goldfinger’s artcollection includes works by HenryMoore and Bridget Riley. Turn right up Downshire Hill,

take the first left, and you’ll findKeats House (Keats Grove, NW32RR, 020 7332 3868). The poet JohnKeats lived here from 1818 to 1820.You can sit in the garden where he

heard the birdsong that inspired‘Ode to a Nightingale’.A leafletguides you through eachroom,renovated in 2009 to look just as itdid when Keats lived here. The quiet streets between

Hampstead High Street and the

of the Horseshoegastropub (28Heath St, NW3 6TE, 020 7431 7206).The tinyPentameters Theatre isupstairs (see p22). Nearby there’sthe gloriously retro Hungarian café-patisserie-tea room Louis (32 HeathSt, NW3 6TE, 020 7435 9908).

West of Heath Street

From the tube, veer right into HeathStreet and climb The Mount on theleft-hand side, up the steps to yourleft. You’ll find yourself in what lookslike a country lane. Look back at thestunning view over the rooftops.Up a little lane here, the Holly

Bushpub (22 Holly Mount, NW36SG, 020 7435 2892) is a great spot

for a pint. Where Frognal Rise andHolly Bush Hill meet is MountVernon Green and Fenton House(3 Hampstead Grove, NW3 6SP, 0207435 3471). It’s a grand 17th-centurymerchant’s house with lunchtimeconcerts, croquet in the gardens andgreat rooftop views. In Septemberthere’s apple bobbing in the orchard. At the end of Admiral’s Walk is

Lower Terrace. Along here,Hampstead Scientific SocietyObservatory (Lower Terrace, NW3 6RF) is the only place inLondon where you can regularlylook at the night sky through a goodtelescope at no cost. Just turn up on a fine night (mid-Sept to mid-April:Fri, Sat 8-10pm; Sun 11pm-1am).

Around the lanes

Head back down the hill to rejoinHeath Street and turn left onto NewEnd. Keep on until you reach BurghHouse (New End Square, NW3 1LT,


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Hampstead HeathHampstead Heath’s 790 acres of hilly unmanicured countrysideoffer shady glades, open heathland, enticing paths throughancient woodland and many opportunities for hearty outdooractivities or a relaxing stroll.

It’s so big that it’s best to explore a corner at a time: get toParliament Hill Fieldsby bus from Camden Town or by train toGospel Oak or Hampstead Heath stations, or walk through thelanes east of Hampstead High Street to get to East Heath. FromHighgate Village, take a short walk from The Grove down FitzroyPark, or down Highgate West Hill to Merton Lane, to enter theHeath near Highgate Ponds, or walk along Hampstead Lane toKenwood – the estate of Kenwood House (Hampstead Lane, NW37JR, 020 8348 1286). This handsome 18th-century mansion iscurrently closed for renovation, but its Brew House café remainsopen. You can also enjoy Kenwood’s pretty landscaped gardens,lake and marvellous warren of wooded walks. Seek out statues byHenry Moore and Barbara Hepworth in the grounds, too.

From Kenwood it’s easy to drop down into the main part of theHeath for a good long walk. If you’re feeling sporty, the MixedBathing Pond is the oldest of three large ponds set aside forswimming. Unlike the men’s and ladies’ ponds, which are openyear-round, the Mixed Pond is only open from May to September(7am-6.45pm daily). Children under 8 are not permitted, but theycan splash about in the paddling poolat Parliament Hill Fields.

JAMIE FROM KEITH FAWKESBOOKSHOP, FLASK WALK‘I’m from Camden Town. I loveworking in Hampstead. The bestthing about it is its community spirit.’

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Rosslyn Hill and SouthEnd Green

Continuing down Hampstead HighStreet brings you to another row ofinteresting shops, such as TheHampstead Butcher & Providore(56 Rosslyn Hill, NW3 1ND, 0207794 9210, see offer above), whereexquisite meats are displayed onantique china platters. Also at this end of Hampstead,

look out for craft and vintage fairs inSt Stephen’s Church (RosslynHill, NW3, 020 7433 1272). Turn lefthere onto Pond Street, leading toSouth End Green. Halfway along isthe friendly, loungey Young’s pubthe Roebuck (15 Pond St, NW32PN, 020 7435 7354). A few doorsdown, the Armourygym (25 PondSt, NW3 2PN, 020 7431 2263) iswhere locals go to get buff. It’spacked with cardio equipment, hasa ladies’ sauna and offers classesincluding spinning, yoga, Pilatesand boxing. Day passes are £10(concs £7-£3). Overlooking South End Green is

the White Horsepub (154-156 FleetRd, NW3 2QX, 020 7485 2112) withits airy interior and huge windows.Across the road the traditionalFrench menu at La Cocotte (85bFleet Rd, NW3 2QY, 020 7433 3317)is a favourite with the locals.

walkways linking Heath Street andHampstead High Street, withdoorways leading off into charminglittle shops. Along Oriel Place thevery modern Melrose and Morgan(NW3 1QN, 020 7794 6727, see offerp20) is a branch of the esteemedPrimrose Hill deli, with amezzanine café. A little further down Heath

Street on the left hand side, Perrin’sCourt also offers numerousdelights, such asGinger & White(4a-5a Perrin’s Court, NW3 1QS,020 7722 9944), which serves SquareMile coffee, fantastic brunch andcakes. Beyond Perrin’s Lane, therow of boutiques and little storesincludes independent camera andphoto printing shop Photocraft(4 Heath St, NW3 6TE, 020 74359932, see offer p23 ). After this, Heath Street becomes

Fitzjohn’s Avenue. Take a rightturn along Arkwright Road to theCamden Arts Centre (NW3 6DG,020 7472 5500), a classy exhibitionspace featuring emerging andestablished artists from the UK and abroad, with a great bookshopand café; it’s open until 9pm onWednesdays with talks, screeningsand live events. Admission is free.The next right turn off Fitzjohn’s

Avenue, Netherhall Gardens, leadsto Maresfield Gardens and thefascinating Freud Museum (20Maresfield Gardens, NW3 5SX, 0207435 2002), the home of pioneeringpsychoanalyst Sigmund Freudfrom 1938. Freud’s study has beenpreserved just as it was, and youcan see the very couch where all hispatients reclined during sessions.

Heath are great to stroll around, butmagpies should head straight toMystical Fairies (12 Flask Walk,NW3 1HE, 020 7431 1888), wheresparkly toys and play accessoriesfor girls fill every square inch. There are some excellent pubs,

too. At the Duke of Hamilton(23 New End, NW3 1JD, 020 77940258), Saturday night is comedynight and on Thursdays they hostlive acoustic music sessions. TheOld White Bear (1 Well Rd, NW31LJ, 020 7794 7719) serves greatfood all week but is well known forits Sunday roasts and sticky toffeepudding. Right next to the Heath,The Wells (30 Well Walk, NW31BX, 020 7794 3785) is anotherfavourite local gastropub serving agood Modern European menu.

Heath Street south toFitzjohn’s Avenue

South of Hampstead tube station,Heath Street continues down the hilland becomes Fitzjohn’s Avenue,heading off towards Swiss Cottage.Near the top of this busy littleparade is the boutique arthousecinema the Everyman (5 Holly BushVale, NW3 6TX, 0870 066 4777),which offers gourmet food andsnacks, a well-stocked bar and achoice of seating from comfortablearmchairs to cosy two-seater sofas,complete with waiter service. Foralternative entertainment, check outwhat’s on at the 60-seat fringePentameters Theatre, above theHorseshoe pub (28 Heath St, NW36TE, 020 7435 3648).There are a couple of great little

Present this guide for 2-for-1 on any food and winetasting at The HampsteadButcher & Providore onRosslyn Hill. Call 020 77949210 for information andbookings or visit www.hampsteadbutcher.com.

2-for-1 food andwine tastings

SUYOAT PERRIN’SCOURT‘Hampstead Heathis the best thingabout Hampstead.I like to walk there in the morning andhave lunch atGinger & White. I like the HighStreet, theEveryman and thecrêpe stand.’

Everyman Cinema

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Heading past Hampstead Heathrail station, turn right into South HillPark, then turn into Parliament Hilland then bear right again intoNassington Road. Along here you’llcome to the foot of Parliament HillFields. On your way you go past theMagdalapub (2a South Hill Park,NW3 2SB, 0207 435 2503), a lovelyspot for a drink or a meal. It enjoysnotoriety as the place where RuthEllis shot her lover dead on EasterSunday 1955. The bullet holes canstill be seen in the wall outside.Back on South End Road there

are a number of interesting littlestores. Daunt Books (51 South End Rd, NW3 2QB, 020 7794 8206)has a great book selection and asecret book cave for children, andsylish retro goodies await atSkandinteriors (57 South End Rd,NW3 2QB, 07794 640 937). Mimmola Bufulà (45a South End Rd, NW32QB, 7435 7814) serves top-notchwood-fired pizzas.

Highgate Village

Highgate is a visit in itself but ifyou’re coming from Hampstead it’sworth taking the 603 bus from HeathStreet as this links Hampstead toHighgate in about 10 minutes.Browse in the few independentshops like Not So Big (31a HighgateHigh St, N6 5TJ, 020 8340 4455), withexquisite children’s clothes, or thefriendly Highgate Bookshop (9Highgate High St, N6 5JR, 020 83488202), before going for a deliciousafternoon tea at the cute, laid-backHigh Tea of Highgate (50 HighgateHigh St, N6 5HX, 020 8348 3162). The houses around Pond Square

are charming, and the cosy Princeof Walespub (53 Highgate High St,N6 5JX, 020 8340 0445) serves well-kept real ales and has a terrace withtables right on the square. Walk a little further along South

Grove and you come to the Flask(77 Highgate West Hill, N6 6BU, 020 8348 7346 ), a handsome 17th-century pub. Inside it’s a warren ofbars and snugs, and there’s abigoutdoor terrace.It’s worth a detour down Swain’s

Lane. Just after Bisham Gardens isthe back entrance to WaterlowPark (N6 5HG, 020 8348 8716), oneof London’s prettiest. It adjoins therecently restored formal garden of17th-century Lauderdale House(Highgate Hill, N6 5HG, 020 83488716), used for art exhibitions, musicperformances and craft fairs. Thecafé on the west side of the house hasa lovely terrace overlooking the park.Further down Swain’s Lane is 19th-century Highgate Cemetery (N66PJ, 020 8340 1834). For a small feeyou can wander the East Cemeteryand see the graves of Karl Marx andGeorge Eliot, or take a guided tour ofthe West Cemetery.

Around Highgate Wood

Half a mile from Highgate Village,down Southwood Lane, is Highgatetube. The shops along the busy A1 –Archway Road – include the lovelysecond-hand bookshop RippingYarns (355 Archway Rd, N6 4EJ, 020

8341 6111) and the well-stocked Deli& Delights (343 Archway Rd, N65AA, 020 8340 8632). The arts centreJacksons Lane (269a Archway Rd,N6 5AA, 020 8340 5226) holdsclasses and presents dance, theatre,children’s theatre and music. Around the corner from Archway

Road, walk for a few minutes downMuswell Hill Road and you come toHighgate Wood on your left andthe quieter Queen’s Wood on yourright. In Highgate Wood (020 84446129) there are regular nature walksorganised, including night-time batwalks. The Pavilion Café (N10 3JN,020 8444 4777), in a clearing in themiddle, serves good coffee, hot andcold meals and own-made ice cream.

Judy Green’s Garden Store

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Free print atPhotocraft Order ten or more digitalprints of any size atPhotocraft Hampstead onHeath Street to get a free8"x12" digital print onpresentation of this guide.Offer valid throughout 2012.Call 020 7435 9932.

Highgate Cemetery

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ARSCHNER

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