THE SUN SUNDAY SEPTEMBER 10 1000 I irirkrir j k T T 1 1 Gleaming Gowns All the Rage This Autumn PARIS IDEAS OF FASHION Russian Blouses Velvet Coats and Evening Costumes Gold In the Sew unit In Trtmmtnci of Yitnr IlmrrlpllanDeilin In While and lodllnlrrns and Ilini SUM Popular rYrnlni llonni Implr or llh lfnln Toward llor i u nenrifcnrallre loll Cndtunet cu TsllnrOtnilr Oowoi Whatever the men of country t meditating tli ntlngeiii to a wmnan are rnjlylru round ti tiittiiid line never nix nn linl li tngc dtOirntrd with more itnld l ntl p the uptrOiitc nor on- nn1 Him dna nt stop with gold buttons Prom her Rt ekln mid hies to lrr rri hr olUlli enrmnt i nrn gleaming with gold I BO tar ewnped th epidemic but name n tho new chemise mid night gowns show tiny void buckle liuldlnc rlbhcn I t iO1aIJUCK19 WOMAN r r fnk tar I I j N 1 II nay I i gild lat n hn huh 4 1 a rift id n i I I huh lng ri > > > < < In plan and silk peltlccats are franklycorded and toweled with sold ra theres no knowing where th craze will stop This un of cold In by tar the moot striking feature of the autumn fuililoii niul the effects obtained nrn eutrdlngly Rood but one wonder how the gold galorn and entredeux and em- broidery will stand wwir and wenthnr On carriage and houo gowns It may enough but It fairly safe to predict that ininy of flio street gowim and coato now being fashioned will li ok like relics of the war of 1SI3 holiday time Where It Is nnly nqunstlon of renewing gold brnld thl defection in iy not cause much trouble but the new gown tiTil cjntH are wonderfully and tearfully made i nni many of them will l e ruined beyond repair Ir Hi gold In their IrlmmlncH play them false It I well for the wiitnnn of moderate to Inccmet- o boar IliU ttliaoe of tho problem In mind r wliia ordsrln her nutimin outfit andto use gold trimming that may easily bn freshened or roplaod Another thing to remember I th J fact thit It Is the poorest economy to buy cheap tinsel trimming best tarnlshe I ndly enough aril the cheap gold In practically worthies Tb naw neckwear whloh Is hlnwrnlniT nut In bowllderlng profusion Jut now hhow Innumerable touches of gild Tucked stock of whlto or colored have 0 narrow llni of uMd ar pHiU or braid at tho top and n cravat or sold ribbon from whoso end dangle tiny ld bill or tat l Other stock arc of lace ciiitllnvl with gold and luivn ft ulllt scarf cravat with ends nppllqu with law Chiffon nnl mwMllnH jabot and knot are edged with narrow gold IHCP while the ncccmpiinylpg- chiffon stock ha a linn of gold nrxt the thn at Collar arp mado entirely of cloth of geld or gold braid with a line ot velvet nrnund ih tVTit nnd a nirrnw cravat strnp of velvet fastening with cold buckle Plastrons and emllar of gold doth embroidered In Oriental cjlors tiro shown In tho shops and are exceed eTJJtlviS liisUte dark coat bodice or with the M pular whit rjn co tuirci Many nf th new uowrs have a rather erer pouched bodli acrowt a roiitrnntln vest with R soft hnvy sold cord and the H contlnunl down tin aUIrt over a petticoat front cmtchlmi tlw Plain long uleove nra from shnud r to the elbow In order ti Introduei th lacing over an under leer of th ncnndiiry color Wond rful raised llowfru and other denlirna In gold or and white are used for ar pllqu and touch cold net cf heavy mesh oftn encnHfd with cram or blank lace IK a en In claboratp evening gowns On thu velvet and oat for which triumphant popu- larity I pn mls d gold trlmtnlnc U especially- In evidence Th large rut Rlvrs n croup of velvet Jacket rtetched from exchwlve inodeK and Intended for wear with broadcloth coirns in tints which an Ihc top notch of swellnMs for vHltlnB reception and casino w ar Th velvet bolero which goes with a cloth klrt of dellcnt lilac I of pansy velvet with n border of whit cioth embroidered In design hadlae from th lllnc of the skirt to thi deep rMdUh purple of th Jacket und shot throuxh with Hi avy sold thread while a cord of gold edjn cacti ld of the embroidered r L flrvl lble I I ore t f I I C I a i n rit t lacing I gold own pole r r k L t Even tho silk laced VeNt alit the a > > > > ¬ < ° bind lh bfilrn of the new French model out without darta and fullrd ll htly Into the plain liorU r bnealli th biini Various authorltl murmur r phecl r ecrdlnu lh i u lni Hi bolero and nod if fnlilcn lotions Hi central rule and dliMriU what crow common wmh the little iaoiHsHhouldco vanish from ths costum of tin ultra chic nut ts hincpn aro that both fad will llr- thromu in TKO man 114 w Hon I t unit IlIlIrrlrt gold should f Ion rl 4 1 the L Ii tine > < ° tlgn In both have been achIeved by manu- facturer and dcilhnem to an early from grace Will It U undoubtedly true that during the lent few week wverer line bAT beets creeping Into hn jnodeU turned out by tho most famous gown makem This U par- ticularly In o the cloth ansi wool gowns and tffectn on bodice are for winter wear If wanU a gown that wilt outlive one Maxon Such dcftlgn accentuate the longwaUted I read one tail trim ate experiments ¬ ¬ effect of th nionrnt nnd iir Inftnltely morn becoming to a dhortwaUtid fl ur than the Jacket which cut tim wal t length When Jaoketn are retained they how a tendency to creep down below dm walt Somotlmcii this moviinent Indicated only by tnlvs at th- bnrk from which n girdle starts defining the wuW Ito Or th fninU full In stole fashion and thy ulrdle follow th wulHt line in th back Or thn Jacket oMtend n few Inehru IKIOW the bflt all around The velvet Kus lan bloine shown In tho cut l n Popular model Itecomlne to slight figures Tho entente rordliln bntwuen Franco and HtUslA liat led French ileilciier Into various lluiwlun byway of fashion IhU en on Just as- yinpHtliy with tho nrmy during the trial led to tlm rage for military gold French fashion are Interesting cominentarleji upon admlnUlrallvn t ollrlei and jiopiilar sontlment If ono earns to study them In that light but the uvorngo ntudent fiihlins U of the 1eter Hell persuasion anti n Itunlaii bloine upon a Ilktiro trim A liusslan blou e Is to him And It I nothing mure Apoloclos nr due to Mr Wordsworth but If he could see fUwslan blOOM of the ho would undoubtedly admit that his prlmrofo was honored byaaoo elation with It The particular llfsilin blouse In questlon U of black velvet lined Wth white satin and the high xtnlght collar down the left and wristbands arm of gold nnd gnrgou hued embroider nnwhlleMtlnwhllii a wrought gold girdle of rather masjlve design confines tle iKiiichlng fullnes The blouHj Is wultablo for wear with any liAndsonn gown and hu nn air of costly simplicity combined with hiKUrlous- romfort that l lacking In many of the more coaw velvet coat to h worn with an Ivory while cloth Urt hat n broad velvet collar I of th ball MidI ural hind a Period < over an under collar of white cloth heavily stitched In Mini del Tint turnedback cuff show on under cuff of white and blue and the white cloth valMcont Is stItched with blue Tim coat fastens across thn hunt with a ftquare bow and ends of black velvet lined with blue fringed with gold and tied through a square gold buckle- A gown of pale blue cloth has a black velvet coat edged with overlapping folds of the blue cloth and the velvet The high Alclon collar Infnccd almost to the edge with henry touched with gold and the underKleeVe ire of lace A ncflrf of thn same laoo a e around tho shoulders U drawn through thru gold buck lace < Ics on uach side of the front and hang In ends The blouse It like the skirt of pale blue cloth and U full upon a deeply pointed yoke of gold traced Inco A broad bund of the ime- Ince borders the kl t The fifth Is en- tirely In black white and gold the and ciifT Mug In H HOilloiwxI shingle design of edged with gold Kvening gowns even on rlvwlo empire llne show a nnlnc tWBrdinrtfi mnR this ceo wn antI white mid void Is n favorite motif Sold tarn enlrcdfiix IK Introduced upon even the flliiy whlto material and froufrou under runie lilted with cold lice dicker de Iclously under clomMikn nklrtn of chlllon tu le Ao and match the whlto and told slippers beneath tinin nnd tilt whlto sill stockings gold em- broidered Slmpln evening unwiu arc how- ever n possibility and two charming are hnwn In the cut One of erf po de Japan luw a skirt made entirely of grad listed horizontal tucks the broader ones at lh bjttom Iwlng in rwitily cut folds to thn skirt but Klnmntlng tuck lete tmdtro U a n of tiny tuck running round tho wall and l devoid of trimming save for tho inouwellno and ace fichu that raid around tIn back of thedicollet cro e the shoulders and ends at either side of the front In a knot and Jaboted scarf ends The otter evening equally oimpls In design hut more strik- ing in material Is a Marie Antoinette model Tile bodice and tram are of flowered silk In pastel shades on whlto ground and the bod- Ice front and petticoat are of cream elne The mouwllne vest l closely the bodice fmlihM In the exaggerated Lout XVI point tho skirt being a trifle bohffant under tli int and acrcsMhc hips A tucked flounce rat I hit moll Ill a mOll I 1 gown ¬ < ¬ ¬ ¬ of mouMellne It set on the petticoat In a oorrwpondlng to tho line of the bodice A Marie Antoinette fichu of moivuxllne edged with tucked frills Is the only trimming of the bodice One of thfuo flchuntogcther with elbow frilU for the sleeves and a narrow velvet girdle Is a I the trimming net ded for moat bewitching little house gowns of pole blue crepe nuns veiling or any ono of the soft wools and uch frocks cleaning perfectly as they do arc most servIceable Itcijis of wardrobe Even an ordinary drossmaker can make thin plain round wit slightly full In front and the simple skirt chirred n trifle Borons the iirAl hack and finished with folds on tho bottom The fichu and i olnted girdle iflvo till the character to tliu frocks nnd these call fashioned by the wearer henelf or under her eye There U everything In the draping of n Jlchu and one must be content to tand before n mirror fur A wearUomo time trying effects of lines nnd folds If ono wants to fathom the possibilities- of this most becoming ad Imict of the new goWns lulf coslunuM for nutumn Wear are being turned out In surprising number Junt now and though most of them tho same rela- tion to golfing that the chic bathlrur stilt bear to the salt sea woven they are good to look at on a dIll veranda The girl with a golf score to maintain will get Into n sensible tinspollahln golf skirt nnd n IOOM flannel Milrt waist which sun will won utretch Into unrecognizable shape and will play her game hilt there are others They lilac golf ru though they were handling brooms and limy couldnt po lbly get n full swing without casualties to hooka und stints and hutlimx but titer or distinctly pint bear I is hips tie dir ¬ decorative and that may bt better than lower- Ing a score The golf costume shown U a now mOdel and comfortable enough to be com- paratively practical The blotised blue a notched of white cloth trimmed with small gold and Is worn over n loose whit blouse The bishop sleeve has a cuff of white and the imcket set diagonally- In the skirt shows a notched tine of white and buttons down with Kilt buttons- Of making new tailor gown modola there oat- h allot on ¬ Is apparently no end although tile continued warm weather IN discouraging both tailors and patrons and many of the former are lamenting that they opened their shop on the traditional Kept 1 Home of the recent models sketched show the usual features with slight variation In trimming New York tailors Beein to be clinging more closjly to the Ctons than their French colleagues though many tailor bodice and longer coats are wen at the more ex- clusive shops A gown In tobacco brown serge ha an Fton flushed with applied wallops hnavlly stitched the point of each scallop being held by a dull gold button The bottom of the skirt ha the same trimming A waistcoat of pastel blue buttons with gold buttons and the cuffs havo an edge of blue Tho browns are perhaps the popular of all the darker color a season advances though the blues and greens are serious rivals njjd red U- asHiimlng great prominence The have never before been so beautiful n they are this season rich and glowing yet Innomemyiiiteriou way devoid of all cmdenees and both In gowns nnd millinery tho color Is forging to the front A red cloth gown shown In a cut Is made with a plain bolero under which IK a bolero of white cloth embroidered In rich Oriental colors red predominating The bishop alcove bOA embroidered and the coat I worn over a blouso of white lonWne silk with red pannn collar edze and girdle Another suit with a short jacket la of Rus- sian blue serge A band of broad gold braid edges the jacket which U oollurless and run half way on the Jacket fronts ending held by large wrought gold buttons A bund of braid nine down either hide of a front skirt breadth unit finishes at tho knee with u point ant button The full length travelling Is sketched from A In hunter clm i with- a of black and white dotted panne and revere edged with panne Tile blouse Is slit up each tide to show an under mOlt Ih wrist bad dow Ion loll I wide Irish reds Inca ¬ ¬ bodice of this dotted panne and In held In place by tiny frog of black white and gold tipped with tastuU Wristbands and girdle are of panne and thin skirt Is trimmed only with small cording of black white mid gold on the seams The other full length sketch shows another green gown trimmed with black and gold braid I and small gold buttons A waistcoat of pole blue fasten with told strap and buttons Thl rv tu n of green and blue In vary I S > Inr anode appears In French de- signs and I considered particularly rood Even bathrobe are feeling tho empire move- ment nnd taking on new pretensions One Ilroadwa firm I showing uncommon pretty tunes of light blue eiderdown flannel with heavy wash lace collar and brood empire br fasten- ing with huge gold button Another loung- Ing robe In the same hop of French flannel In dull blue trimmed with blue and seen was ¬ ¬ ¬ gold braid nnd ecru law and n charming tea Jacket nearby was mad of pink ribbon and heavy Inca Insertion with wide rIvers of heavy lace Inside of which was folded a surplice fichu of creamv inou ellnp All thin how for tho hair havo by tlm cold mlcrobo nnd bit of gold gaue ribbon K twisted Into the mid the white satin Lows that arc MI practical dinner and home wear Thin fall outing are rot visions of beauty llyi eri well hatter have mad desperate efforts to e aip from the dominion of corn brero and alpine share and tho result nrn not all that could be desired Icrhap tl e owellent and most chic of the new models Is of shaggy white minds hair In modified sombrero Minpo and with a stitched under brim of black camels hnlr One exclusive firm U maklnif up thewo hat with a folded band of black panne velvet flint pompon but the general verdict trimming over- done an absolutely bond I the correct thing for nutumn outing hut Moods which nrej much Ilko fitted yoke turned up around the edgm and lined with n contrasting color are being used on many of the and Occasionally the gold buttons The newfluor c nt rilk U n changeable- silk under a new name but It has a new beauty as well and obtains color effects never achieved In changeable materials Bronze shoe are creeping hack Into favor nnd many fancy shoe And slippers show bronze Il 1 IUI II bilk cal II nap Ie lion infected or- dinary bate has been buttoned tothe with ¬ > < ¬ In combination with pastel color A craze for fancy and bizarre foot wear I predicted- but In splto of seasons many vagaries Brown Is popular once more and n host of women will look more hopelessly plain than a beneficent Providence intended There seems to be an Idea that any one can wear brown In reality It U a color to be treated with marked respect and a woman needs deep discretion In chooMng the exact shade of brown that will bo becoming to her Yellow brown will te l all the life from hair and eyes dray brown will ruin some complexions ned brown will make a allow skin mom sallow And yet the right brown on the right girl I r thing to with Touches of burnt Orange and ear on many of brown gowns Dull and certain shade or alto colnblnn well with browns yet n brown costume duet f to t combination and unlo one achieve a complete nymphony liWirown choose n morn adaptable coor for a general service coMumu Till flare A the skirt bcttom U modified and Iho lull cown hung rather llmrl around tho Next to the white cloth gowns In favor gown of light hIm and of mushroom rink cfrth nod the ndlcatlnis are tlrt this Is to bi preeminently A eason of pale tinted cloths for wear Iale gray stocking Imbrcklered In silver are In demand to match thn clothof ver slippers have jiitt appeared 1OYO ltM ttOMIXO Nallre el the lilsrd living Elsewhere Food lit Ifctliltlrc Olilllrtldrntrs From New Ilnrn shire nnd Maine the cu torn of Home Wtek r Old Homo Week spread this nutumn to Connecticut It Is referred to u n w England custom mOld oxlst In cetuln other of New England New far n the main hod of the Stnto- Is concerned Down on Long how- ever the ha teen no Institution of Home Week a an autumnal festival gathering there ha lone beer ing and Iong I landi rx am rather proud of It will tell visitors that mid every Year there are enough of who domiciled liemfolve visiting their former homes on island to out the truth of the deHanitinn Sol every wanderer to be sure comes r n but sum rner native Long Islanders from nil parts of black mal I to ono rot I Ynrk did not or hr 1 lnnd TIC bear thi fro the Sop 1- 0bc or 1 110 the old home corn i dIstinctly stand Nil 114 lilT harts with this rittoin eli noun s bong three elsewhere country wren PACIfIC S > + ¬ ¬ > SUMMER TAN NOT ALL A JOY FBiiixiNE mnnsxiTiiis iritKN IT- neoixa TO fADf Complexion HpolUd bjr To Or t Dtrotloa- U the SnnQiiefB Victoria MiUtal Ac cirapllihrntnUAdrtro to ITomtn a to lo take Thtmielv DUIIktd woman who hw returned to town now area the gradual disappearance of the tan which collected assiduously during the summer months Unfortunately It not all eo at once Slowly her face become a dingy yellow and that tint usually lasts longer than any of the other pha the pownsor of this tinliecomlng relic uin- mcr I asking herself why In tho world ho ever took no muoh Interest In getting brown Hhe wonder why she ever lay hours In the baking mm trying to get n color darker than any of her companions could boast A coat of tan I becoming to few women A brunette with the coloring of tier kind U occasionally made n little more attractive when liar skin has grown richer and darker from thin effects of the stun Dark hair and eye derive nn added beauty from a darker and the brunette can occasionally make the umm r experiment and riot be the looser In thIS matter of looks Hut II the one woman who can The blonde should avoid n lipavy coat of tan as die would the plague It will always bo unbecoming to any woman with light colored hair nnd e Itlonde hair Is very likely to Mench front the effect of the summer sun mul there are enough yel J low lady she she does very skin > owfaoed fadcdhaind lighteyed women nbout New York today to supply an eternal warning against excessive tan n a summer diversion Yet the next summer will the same num- ber o women walking haIku and placing In the sun delighted alon rats see ¬ nt of a tat of tan moio marked than of their friends have accu- mulated The nnythlng else In women athletics to spoil and many n girl gone for three orfour summer without n hat has damaged skin to such an ont that the effects will last during rest of her life rh girl who has most reason to regret the lingering effects of the summer I who Imprudently cut her bathing dress low In th of being free In her motions while swimming She Is learning now how slowly a coat Un may disappear when one most anxlou to get coming of the to wear low of tan on neck and a distinct are now One came out winter the preceding summer In the freedom the season wa the last In she would not be a young lady burdened with the responsibilities so She found when gayeties the and contrasted most strikingly with the white skin on this rest of Something had to ha done because high necked gowns were out of the question for n woman who to haw tlrat In So a necklace of pearls was very sklllfuly arranged hy her to such n that It the particular line which marked the ending of sum- mer bathing The contrast was In way concealed Women not enough to es been to cut their with an unfashionable- and unbecoming merely summer tan would remain The i am trouble comes wh n the question of bodice nrlses Arm are a discolored a neck and although thorn Is thought to be a certain smartneAs about sunburned arm In the sum- mer tune few perKon would be lo that worn equally to he admired In n ballroom Women returning to town add force to the theory that few women were ever Im- proved b allowing to get more n little bit sunburned An exagger- ated may Improve looks deeper tan will not unbecoming In summer but also it cnntliinlng nuUance In the winter monthx until It makes ltd belated appearance Queen Victoria boa for thin past three year shown more Interest In music than for year before The private operatic performances given at Windsor by the Covent harden artlU un cult and mark ho hell th luck II Ih hM IUI b has the she time sleeveless lindicea will the the arms last cit was suit dresses sleeveless 513 die ¬ ¬ ¬ ¬ ¬ ¬ i have been on evidence of the Queens enjoy- ment of muilo and the principal muilclan of the London season have appeared at the castle Formerly the Queen went to the opera herself but now that I out of the question and Shift must take her enjoyment cur- tailed performance given at Windsor Now- I somebody discovered that she ls an ex- oillent judge of singing and wu at one also has time ¬ ¬ able to tlag with that cam from the a st l ndld teacher and for eighteen years Bo protracted a mu lcal education rare of eouw be to a queen or a woman of wealth It was her taste for In to her the Queen Is as a solid Hhe a high opinion of her and their Inter- course that of friends than of mon youth a or studied music with vII skill nine in her Queen IS tO hid beautiful quaLity Nba basso very showed skill aa a was arch and subject frequently to- gether and Victoria nothing o much t these time as in thin dutt I from Von Giovanni which her Hho many dirflcult and elaborate operatic a us religious muslo and song have delighted uciinlrers particu- larly the facility which read and the correctness of her ear These of family had been HO taught by Blgnor that her voice retained power and lung flIer the at women are supposed to cease singing- A woman who has figured largely In the affaire of her sex wni asked recently to give- n few words of ndvlco which be of use to women In all walks of life whatever their particular calling was Ono practical hint that ho been suggested to me by long expe- rience wrote will help any woman to develop her facullloi My advice I bo your Mlf or be original These words may or may not contain n much wisdom as they seem sound rather and they had on one woman to bring out denunciation make nine women out of ten Intolerable They are bad enough when they are by Then life icing mentally If not actually other woman with they come They are o much of us that they never be expected to associate with rot of their MX on an In I dorm w Thc to lllnl1 and Is at hI mIMIC wrl by rllM mOt fond or Thy the cite was airs Queen tisod be a good shin gifts only arid the late Iiike are musiC might she rnile she said 9 that will prigs every ¬ ¬ their were oil humdrum conventional We think about our homes our children and contemptible tor do a wider range of observation arid n sort of for u usually been my experience with any woman could he Improved by Ux advice to be original Wo a Is like If attempts to be original In Then he Is to a Originality In manner makes al- ternate rudeness and e perfect frankness and of char- acter to of the of a woman and at aU Into public view wo Just what a U likely to be It Is only own sex an a rule that any womati ever tries to be original fche knows pretty well that that sort of Uilog never to They like a oonven sort of woman the man who taken a to her will discover in which time I utterly different from That nil comet from the man Mmnelf It satUnes too Hed rather discover marked char- acteristics In the girl he love have them really In and apparent to the rest of the world So the woman Is original with tax Is perfectly satisfied merely or- dinary and n a possible men- The other alternative In general advice- to women seems to me almost a dangerous although It I likely to mnke n woman less o an fraud Women who have made up a novelty and I havent the least doubt that plane by aiming at the best development of own character and never pretending- to bn what are not But most of those- I have known usually impress overy nenwin the would ever want to h Ilko them Aside elfatl fled moral attitude that they after n short there are tho awk- ward result of this uncompromising ndherencn to truth and their own natures They ore of It and none of thorn Is to pleasant and agreeable thlnr are not on truth On the re- mark that are likely to make n disagreeable Impression are bo for that reason not bn true to one character to hesitate to nil the unpleasant things ore believed H would bn very much somebody else Instead Altogether I dont think that ndrlon to bn original or bn oneself would make n woman especially popular If she followed It however i I have known who prided themselves onclnal must have an tunity om tlme to lie merely themselves In rooms and take a rest from the strain of trying to bo original wager that women were working so hard all the time to be themselves would have an occasional chance to be more like the rest of their sex tie Knew tbe Real Thing Prom Mt landon ntwrn They had just got married Mid were start Irvg on their honeymoon The tirlde had got the man loved and she didnt rare who saw her put her head on shoulder The bridegroom got a farm with wife If he wanted to h r hand or feed her with tweets whose buslnms wi A little old man t lt the couple nd he looked Ht them o often that the young ttnjlly explained Just married I knowed the the otherAnd we cant help It you know i oil neern very to n old roan like Does It Dot unkled the old follow Well I rn you It does not then 1vo Den there time owN And now Im on ono touch and the rot nd t think or these 6 mind mid I woman or Ole that to b whIch wan 1 to liar or men tonal Ju 011a18 provide and a may fonc pints he- ron to their to b no means man a who ml Idea In word and In cases where NaI Tat sti meat or hr character Mot of worn A n his e lot tme chuckle So cal otnl YOU tel a t Il Ile and dress they a origna1 way are too different from mat thl origInal the dont fright thoae extidea seem sun exhibition get can variety Ilowever common- place girl Oil the sex be minds be themselves are high them with that 0011W prevented from showing kindness sympathy the they ray t might the the own she his us you be you itt to fourth Why children paradise downi ¬ ¬ ¬ ¬ ¬ < IN nnoostrtf The Montauk Club of Brooklyn located near the entrance to Prospect Park tins enjoyed the vogue of being the most popular summer In town during the season past owing no to Ideal situation on Prospect Height AH well as to the attractive methods of It gen- eral managomont and IU chef Duvenvl to be one of the heist In this part of thu Tho kitchens of the MonUuk are on rout floor In accordance with modern nrchltucturnl its dining rouiiu are especially fn the presence of fat luncheons and other feasts ut which HKI feminine presonoa not only admitted lout eagerly sought for Tho women KUUSH of the Montauk flub have becomu entluulnKllo over the various dishes to bn haul nt thu and have sought for Infortnatloii ON to their preparation While this may bo with a view to proving to their own satisfaction that clili cooking can be imulnted lit home one of ambitious tho rest re- cently obtained tome of Clot Dnvoiicl own recipes for sortie of time moat popular dlttm Dented at the Montauk tablu First Is n potage Vanderbltt sufilclon rw twelve plates requiring n calf head nnd two ponies of Amontlllada one pint of credo nil eggs yolks and boiled rice Clean head and jaws thoroughly wash them In cold water then putt In Hnucepiin with nix quarts of water And a bouquet of hay leaves al o two leeks pnmley celery tied In buncheH on carrot two onions and one turnip brio for three hours then roniovn tho and cnlTn head Strain tilt broth through a cloth Thou put lx ounces butter In n with four tablespoon of flour Stir It with broth and let heat for tint minutes Cut thn parts of the head oral Jaws In small squares add with one half pint rico the sherry lo the broth Thicken creara and egg yolk and serve Pickerel In Montauk style Is prepared in this Select five pound of pickerel tic the heads tall and skin off and place them In a Haucepan with some salt and pepper and two quart of water I et heat slowly for Then lord the pickerel some as tenderloin wagon well and wrap In white paper buttered on both sides Iut two ounces of hutter with the fish soil cook for half an hour In n slack Pound In a mortar a little watercress chevril parsley two anchovies Cue clove of two arid of butter When In a paste through a tine then put two ounces of butter In sieve saucepan with two of flour fish broth Add half a whltn wine halt n of cream and the paste allow to cook slowly ten minutes twolvo well trimmed Then n saucepan four ounces bacon one valves together fine cessna with salt and nutmeg Then cut twelve sheet of prepared paper double heart shape butter on put a little of on each and under a well Fold the paper around each chop and twist In them In a baking pan cook for ten minutes nerve split nnd arranged on n one portUa raspberry syrup over Tho syrup pint raspberry ounce powdered sugar one Maraschino the fire saucepan when boiling odd arrowroot dissolved In a water When It Is cold It will look like Jelly and can be added to the Ice Montauk sandwiches generally served at lure n and sire In this fash Ion Pound ono pound double cream Ameri- can cheese and It three whole egvs a few drops of sauce ami cover li Iamb placed on toast Cook for ten In a oven and servo with a sllrn of bacon on each and a lace paper under The Brooklyn clubs hOT always been far more hospitable to women guests than those of New York While there are ladle day BO called at all the largo metropolitan these days are rather the signal for a general departing of the mancullna element nnd tho clubhouse I turned over to thin feminine In fadert At some of the clubs notably the yachting clubs even severer methods are re- torted to and certain panes are lined off from he Intrusion of n woman1 foot and here the grizzled bachelors betake themselves to rend sod smoke until the day I at an end Drook- yn clubs have always made a feature of en ertalnmcnt for their femlnlnn friends Their lowllng alleys have been turned over to fair ithletea morning while on certain days en ertnlnmcnt are provided with luncheon and nuslcal programmefl to enoouragn the presence if the fair guest This Idea ha rather prejudiced the Brook yn matron nnd maid In favor of club life One lenr little over the tea tables except In antici- pation of the winters round picture view Italian to ono athletic with n country at hay a something to be greeted rejoicing Tho town butt the entertainment there I formal while at their country scene on cummer afternoons 1 bright Ith the color of gowns and the sound of mlnlno voices It letup thing to drive to spot and dinners and luncheons re on overlooking the bay launches arc anchored nd far Into the evening the music of banjo and tandollns sound unison with happy Brooklyn con boast two notable womens tubs one the Clvltnn formed by the society Iris of the Heights for the discussion of political tatters and the Health Protective League an uptown organization of women whose avowed bject wa the healthful management of th Ity the proper cleaning of the streets the ceo latlon of the schools and other the hygiene of the people dill actual work and gained more lasting fats han any of the various women club of hew The fomou also an out rowth of Brooklyn numbering thousand nf he who used to fairly old Academy of Music at tint were under direction of Laura President the As- Delation The Brooklyn Women Club eon celled the of and feminine celebrities In literature among s members Tho jokes that ore oo popular with the ork flat dweller at the expense of the Brooklyn sldont aro really not o funny as they seem be For thin man whoso business internals located In Now York thn journey each day Bridge or ferries unpleasant dlousnes but with this exception the Brook Is by far th gainer In tho matter of neon my In living expenses and Inn position hat con d In hurcbc Incomu that would provide lorn than the haP rent of a mnt on this side of thn Bridge Very apartment are i the choicest n tho t rentals that would only provide restricted a Hut sport lent will tM vi r l r In a are In this boroiigi for the ron tl- Mt the average ideas of cool seem to a home arid n while the metropolitan glut dweller never ulte reaches Ivor the Ilriikv- lerefcre far out In the new portions pretty go In rows that re pec- hlllty In their line These are of modern Improvement ar- tlh other human of whom they know nothing id for they never onn i hloned Yet the averse nw York and woman especially th oman Idea of their ten continue to serenely nt Brooklyn ivantnge FRECKLES tan moth blotches and rt discoloration of the skin and complexion speedily and at home Full Information S with bopk mailed free JOHN H WOODBURY W 214 near Ctir- nndltjj Coftnmrrsr- XKUCII LADIES TAItA- ot ittk t M aja nARD cub ali plan d ot the I th th pan leI bold wa anhour oven o tie over Lamb chops brain mix a two p lpd or and ono tbl 18 Jul novell bMCO braised mil ho look with moT lawn ore mater to more York Iub cIT wan th roll man New fro rlnl tie on nn hOld r hll In o furl 8 hOI f tat for lal chlal lat or YOlk In I n II lan to and u our 2 I J its itt women brruk lot successfully thtrn moore thom jam let jaws the stir pinto off sauce serve donngre are excellent f3lcjt liver tarragon little eli Cardinal are frcetnne peaches fish with ion cream Ill ft nesrl peaches clubs receptions to given senson they upon an in louse a- muse gii this was Ire pea has I has its mite tune W icy this U aver interior fittings arid re rnt leow the New families are hu riiiIo 4 J14 uTailaa N- ft ¬ ¬ ¬ ¬ ¬ > > > < Purlfl- oTh who lilmte the wi illed In the aol n The finger that flour ut that b when to if Thl wife In n ni- Wei money I it- dnCeli and a the nn It Im- fumlttj Paying r nirnltu- Im fi- an i all fVtl- n lit tin Win linr n than m- Wnl ki We- lanj In have b was the The tnornanl I hoexcl- Oh cm or othi- I a flat at i Now aW h truck ul i Me knt- r wor for oooi emits w nice ne bright 1 Import bother Know Yes look evening f ST- p rile 4 U th- at V ltrn huh 7 allow tB- Clielu cough marks The oilier tuucko- eho C tail I grutep- To lull W- Ihonlie croon dcsrng- bicese ttk to 111 10 The iiri huasJit that itulti- moilg 13 ritn- iilied trying Iiln Jim Ito iii- it Wa- I over lookin whit t then in tat fesiin every iiikvt cures the hot Ne- th c- ijused does phlians- tmotit bumt ho- rota N C- liigso herd a ting w a said s gal nit I 1a iii a- fore Qui- Iis rtri 4 she we hold a- ix ma lag in dihest- aice to imou- lNo at of- timI I stuff f Ign- ohrdi ver her to- ciii ii ahIrflY- at iiltVe Ow I Its all Tue- wliilo gi itt lime Ii- I I a smell numut h- iilicej rings rini di tsi a ilorritlu- im1 tl- apuiesli thi see tUb tim Tim just w Ala icji Vealyr- eltte Kilt hip II ee If I be s I cit him haying co nOUn that view would ds h lake lie Irig