The result of all this work is a perfectly centered hidden binder bolt and a really clean looking seatstay attachment. This is a very labor intensive way.

The result of all this work is a perfectly centered hidden binder bolt and a really clean looking seatstay attachment. This is a very labor intensive way to attach the stays, but it’s a great look. I vary my seatstay attachment method depending on

what the customer wants. I personally like this one, but it does add a bit of weight due to the solid stainless rod sections in the tops of the stays.

Finally I recheck all the alignment of the frame and finish up the seatstay-dropout joints and braze on the cable stops, bottle bosses nad any other bosses requested. Then the frame is ready for final finishing. The real

beauty of 953 is that it doesn’t require any paint if all the frame components are stainless. I do a satiny brushed finish on my frames as it’s very clean

looking and easy to fix any scuffs. It actually looks remarkably similar to brushed titanium.

I glass bead blast the entire frame, this accomplishes 2 things. First it leaves a nice satin finish to provide the base for my finish, and secondly it removes are traces of aluminum oxide which could be embedded in the material from sanding.

Those flakes can cause minor rusting over time. After balsting I go over the whole frame by hand with scotchbrite cloth to give it the brushed look.

Here you see the stainless “B” I added into the upper headlug

After everything is brushed out, I apply the final finishing touches. For this frame I made up a polished stainless headbadge with raised, brushed finish lettering. I etch my logo into the downtube using a computer cut vinyl mask which is applied to

the tube, then I abrasive blast over the mask, leaving the logo you see below.

Finally, we have a finished frame!