The PEF of Leather - unibocconi.it

The PEF of Leather

Environmental Management:What is Changing in Public Policies

and Corporate Strategies

How Are Environmental Footprints,EMAS and ISO 14001 Management Systems

and Product Certifications Evolving?

July 2, 2015, Università Bocconi

Introduction to UNIC Group &European Leather Market

Unione NazionaleIndustria Conciaria

The largest international association of industrial tanneries.

Founded in 1946 to protect the sector, is the leader of a"group" of companies engaged in several fields:

FairsScientificStylisticRegulatoryFinancialPublishingCertification

The Group

The most qualified internationalexhibitions of leather,accessories, components,synthetic fabrics and models forfootwear, leather goods,clothing and leather furniture

Presentation of designers’works anticipated to fashionbrands and high-end customers

Conducts research on tanningproduction cycle

The only certification institute inthe world specific to theindustry operating from 1994

The first guaranteecooperative dedicated to thesector, with the aim to facilitateaccess to credit

Innovative showroom devotedto creative leather fashion overthe past 30 years

Magazine focusing (since1893) on consumption, market,economy, and internationaltrade of leather

Represents manufacturers ofcomponents and accessoriesfor footwear and leather goods

Company for the organizationof group exhibitions abroadItaly, analysis and marketconsulting

Association of Consumers ofleather products

European Leather Market

Enterprises 1.567

Employees 28.081

Turnover [billion €] 7.1

Production [m2]Cattle/Calf 147.208Sheep/Goat 40.986

Turnover = €*103

Production = m2*103

Leather Pilot

Leather PilotTechnical Secretariat

• Associations:– APIC (PT)– APPBR (RO)– BULFFHI (BG)– COTANCE (EU)– FFTM (FR) – FLIA (FI)– FNL (NL)– SG (SE)– UKLF (UK)– UNIC (IT)– UNITAN (BE)– VDL (DE)

• Tanneries:– Pittards Plc.– SLG (Scottish Leather Group) Ltd

• Academia:– University of Northampton Institute for

Creative Leather Technologies (ICLT)– University of Pisa Department of Civil

& Industrial Engineering

• International bodies:– ICT (International Council of Tanners)– IULTCS/IUE (International Union of

Leather Technologists and Chemists Societies/Environment Commission)

• Suppliers & Clients:– Ikea– Stahl

• Other:– Spin 360º– World Leather/World Trades Publishing

Ltd.

Leather PilotStakeholders

• Public Authorities– ADEME, MEDDE (FR)– BAFU (CH)– Danish EPA (DK)– Federal Office of Environment FOEN (CH)– Federal Public Service Health, Food Chain Safety and

Environment - Department of Product Policy and Chemical substances (BE)

– New Zealand Ministry for Primary Industries (NZ)– Portuguese Environment Agency (PT)– Quebec Finance and Economy ministry (CN)– …

• Companies– Apple (DE)– Atkins (UK)– Ecco (DK)– Hugo Boss Ticino SA (CH)– INDITEX (ES)– Kering (FR)– La Redoute (FR)– Mizuho (JP)– NEXT (UK)– Purina-Nestlé– Bombardier (FR)– Royal canin– SGS (UK)– …

• Laboratories– Inescop (ES)– Oeko (DE)– …

• Academia– Bonn-Rhein-Sieg University of Applied Sciences (DE)– CE.Si.S.P. Centre for the Development of Product

Sustainability (University of Genoa) (IT)– CIRAIG (CN)– Division of Industrial Ecology, KTH Royal Institute of

Technology (SE)– Ecole Polytechnique de Montreal (CA)– LUT University (FI)– pe-australasia (NZ)– Sant'Anna School of Advanced Studies – SSSUP (IT)– Università Cattolica del Sacro Cuore (IT)– Univrstità degli Studi di Genova (IT)– University of Technology Eindhoven (NL)– VITO (BE)

• Other– 2.0 LCA consultants (DK)– Aequilibria (IT)– Blonk Consultants (NL)– Bureau Veritas CODDE (FR)– CEFIC (EU)– CEPI– Cycleco (FR)– ERM (US)– FEDIAF (EU)– Maki-Consulting (DE)– PE-International (DE)– Plastics Europe (EU)– Quantis-International (CH)– TEPPFA (EU)– The International EPD system (SE)– Vincotte (BE)

Leather PilotTimeline

July 2013 Application to participate in the Pilot Project

September 2013 Selection by the European Commission

June 2014 Launch of the 2nd wave of Pilots

July 2014 Launch of the Cattle Model Working Group

January 2015 1st physical consultation and publication of the draft document for open consultation

February 2015 Feedback on comments received

March 2015 Draft document approved by the Steering Committee

July 5, 2015 Submission of the Screening Studies report

Leather PEFCR Draft

Overview of Existing PCRs

PCR 2011:13 Finished bovine leather(Version 2.0 Draft for openconsultation) (Aequilibria forGiada Agency, 2014)(Version 1.0) (Aequilibria forGiada Agency, 2011) (expired2014-09-28; being updated)

Leather - Environmental footprint -Product Category Rules (PCR)

Part 1- Carbon footprints(CEN/TC 289-WG4-Leather-Technical specifications on theuse of leather and terminology)

Core conflicts(Existing PCRs vs PEF guides)

• Data alignment: defined partially and only for one data category

• Unit of analysis: “How long” and “how well” are not defined

• Representative product: not defined

• System boundaries: no justification is given for deviating from cradle-to-grave approach

• Impact categories: exclusion of other impact categories is not justified

Scope: Product Definition

These PEFCR cover Leathers that meet the followingdefinition:

Finished leathers producedfrom raw hides and skins ofbovine, ovine and caprineanimals, which have beenraised mainly for the productionof milk, meat or wool, andslaughtered mainly for humanconsumption purposes, notablymeat production.

Scope: Unit of Analysis

What?Leather as defined by EN15897:2014: “hide or skin with its original fibrous structure more or less intact, tanned to be imputrescible, where the hair or wool may or may not have been removed, whether or not the hide or skin has been split into layers or segmented either before or after tanning and where any surface coating or surface layer, however applied, is not thicker than 0,15 mm”.

How Much? 1 square metre of finished leathers, as routinely measured at Tannery

How Well?

The following standards define fitness for use:UNI 10594: 2010 (Leathers for Footwear)UNI 10740:2012 (Chamois Leather)UNI 10826:2012 (Leather for Leathergoods and Accessories)UNI 10886:2012 (Gloving Leathers)UNI/TS 11268 (Saddlery Leather)ISO 16131: 29012 & UNI EN 13336:2012 (Upholstery Leathers)CEN TS 14906:2005 (Automotive Leathers)EN ISO 14931:2013 (Apparel leather – excluding Furs)UNI 10885:2012 (Vegetable Tanned Leathers)

It is necessary to declare which standard is followed and the related level of compliance.The animal origin has to be reported.

How Long?Leather is an intermediate product and has no expiry date. Its life span depends from its final use but, considering that use phase is beyond the system boundaries of these PEFCR, “how long?” specification can’t be defined.

Representative Products:Market Segmentation

50%

50%

5%

95%

40%

60%

100% 100%

30%

70%

0%10%20%

30%40%50%60%

70%80%90%

100%

Automotive Footwear Leather goods Garment Sole leather Upholstery

Cr-tannedFOCVeg-tanned

71%

8%

9%11% 1%

BovineCalvesCaprineOvineOther

9%

43%

5%

24%

17% 2%AutomotiveFootwearGarment & GlovesLeather GoodsUpholsteryOther

End-Use

Finished Leather Output per Tanning Method

Animal Origin

Representative Products:Composition

RP ID End Use Chrome FoC Vegetable Animal Origin

RP1 Automotiveand Upholstery 63% 37% 0% Bovine

(100%)

RP2 Footwear and Leather Goods 75% 3% 22%

Bovine (66%)Calf (12%)

Caprine (11%)Ovine (11%)

RP3 Garmentsand Gloves 100% 0% 0%

Calf (20%)Caprine (16%)

Ovine (64%)

RP4 Sole Leather 0% 0% 100% Bovine (100%)

System Boundaries

Preservation

Leather Produc.

Slaughterhouse

Farm

Packaging

Chemicals

Salt

Water

Feed

Wastewaters

Wastes

Emissions

Manure

EnergyLiving Animals

RawHides/Skins

Preserved Raw Hides/Skins

PEF Screening Studies Model

1 m2 of finished leather

Raw hides Production

Farm (breeding of animals)

Slaughterhouse(slaughtering)

Stockhouse(preservation)

In‐houseprocesses

Commissionwork

AF: CMWGType of data : Generic dataPossible sources : Meat pilotEcoinvent 

AF: CMWGType of data : Generic dataPossible sources : Meat pilotEcoinvent Puig et. al

AF: 100% to raw hidesType of data: Specific data

Type of data : Specific data for Italy and generic data for other European countries

Challenges

Allocation

Chemicals• Up to 600 Chemicals used in the process of every singular tannery

• Chemicals are mostly proprietary formulations:– Often unknown composition of the blends of chemicals– Available information relates to content of dangerous substances

• Chemical compounds used are often very complex or uncommon: – No primary data for the production of complex/uncommon chemicals– It is not always feasible the use of databases for the inventories of these

chemicals

• The place of production of chemicals is mostly unknown:– It is not usual to get information about the place of production of

chemicals

For further informationplease contact me

Primiano DE ROSA-GIGLIO

UNIC (Unione Nazionale Industria Conciaria)Environmental Dept.

Tel. [email protected]

www.unic.it