The Oz Vincent Review Edition #40, July 2017 The Oz Vincent Review is a totally independent, non-profit, e-Zine about the classic British motorcycling scene with a focus all things Vincent. OVR, distributed free of charge to its readers, may be contacted by email at [email protected]Disclaimer: The editor does not necessarily agree with or endorse any of the opinions expressed in, nor the accuracy of content, in published articles or endorse products or services no matter how or where mentioned; likewise hints, tips or modifications must be confirmed with a competent party before implementation.
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Transcript
The Oz Vincent Review
Edition #40, July 2017
The Oz Vincent Review is a totally independent, non-profit, e-Zine about the classic British motorcycling scene with a
focus all things Vincent. OVR, distributed free of charge to
Disclaimer: The editor does not necessarily agree with or endorse any of the opinions expressed in, nor the accuracy of content, in published articles or endorse
products or services no matter how or where mentioned; likewise hints, tips or modifications must be confirmed with a competent party before implementation.
Welcome
Welcome to this latest edition of The Oz Vincent Review. This month’s Front Cover features Bob
McLennan lifelong Vincent owner and master craftsman with his ‘latest’ Comet. (Actually a photo
reproduction of one of Bob’s award winning Vincent’s). On the seat is one of 2 Vincent trophies
Bob made many years back; the other is now a VOC perpetual trophy. And do not miss the event
calendar for a upcoming auction of TWO Rapides.
If you have received this copy of OVR indirectly from another reader you can easily have your very own future editions; simply click on this link to register for your free subscription.
Finally, to access the OVR archive from any device, simply go to https://goo.gl/jZkiFb
Letters To The Editor Martyn, Enjoyed last months OVR especially the article on Numbers. I now have two vehicles that have incorrectly transposed numbers on the State’s registration data page. In one case an “S” has been transposed as a 5. In another case a “/“ has been left out. To rectify these issues I have been told by the authorities that I need to incur substantial costs by undergoing engineering inspections and also re-submitting various paperwork. In the meantime I have replaced an RFM on another one of my bikes without informing the authorities! At the moment I call it an even score as I am not out of pocket, they do not have a clue and I am happily riding/ driving my machines. It is only when you mess with the authorities and think you can beat them that you put yourself into an insidious and potentially expensive situation.
Classic Bike Owner, Australia (name supplied but redacted)
Good Day Martyn Some months back I sent you some information and pictures of my friend Geno's Vincent dragracer which you published in OVR #25. In 1962 Geno had written a letter to Mr Irving requesting some information concerning his Vincent. I have attached the letter that Mr Irving sent back to Geno which you may find interesting. Hope you enjoy it.
Bob Gomach, USA (PEI’s letter is reproduced AND translated later in this edition)
One Readers Passion An OVR contribution from Holger Lubotzki, Australia
I purchased my 1950 Series C Rapide as a much younger man in South Australia in 1987. While it was a matching number machine, it had previously had a tough life as a speedway outfit and the scars of that can still be seen today. Despite a few fairly serious issues early on and a range of repairs to badly worn and broken bits, I used the Vincent regularly over the years. I made a few changes in the late nineties aimed at improving the usability, and about four years ago I decided to go for a total workover including a TPV 1200cc top end conversion.
My objectives were to arrive at a completely rebuilt Vincent Twin that looked unmistakeably like a Vincent, had significantly improved performance, and was both usable and reliable. I think I have achieved those objectives and I had hinted to Martyn that I would write up how I got there for the OVR. Once I sat down to that task I realised it would take a tome rather than a newsletter to cover all the dead ends and re-work I had go through, so I thought I would just outline what work was done and the major changes to the machine. This will still require a few pages to cover but if anybody would like more details on any of it, please let the editor know.
• 1200cc TPV Top End Conversion with quench band heads set at 50 thou:: Terry Prince's 1200cc kits are marvellous and this more than anything has completely transformed to bike. There is also something about engines with quench band heads that gives the running engine a real "crackle". I already had a TPV crankshaft and conrods fitted years earlier that had zero signs of wear or fatigue. • TPV Mk2 Cams with quieting ramps :: I have Terry's Mk2 cams fitted and perfectly timed using instructions Terry gifted me and previously published in OVR • 38mm Dellorto Pumper carbies with Tomaselli twin cables :: Terry also gave me a specification for 38mm PHM Dellorto Carbies that had been dyno tested in the same configuration to deliver over 90 HP from the engine. I had to mess around with the idle jetting in order to make it happy on the road at anything less than full throttle and they are working very well.
• Special Advance Pazon Ignition :: Pazon built me a special advance ignition unit that has 30 degrees BTDC maximum ignition advance, and also makes starting very easy with zero degrees advance at kick starter speeds. The unit is mounted inside the original magneto cover. The support from Andy and Co at Pazon during the de-bugging phase was also excellent. • Spiral baffle silencer :: Sounds fantastic with a snappy engine but suffered heat discolouration within a few miles like they all do. • V3 clutch running wet in modified chain case :: A V3 clutch is essential with this engine, and it has no trouble coping although it is a little sticky. • Modified breather with reed valve and oil catcher :: This makes the bike very close to oil tight and there is an old fuel tap fitted to the oil catcher to drain the oil periodically. This modification includes a baffle in the crankcase, improved seal on the valve lifter, and reversed primary side crankshaft seal. The reed valve is hidden away under the battery. • 12 volt Alton Alternator driving a TriSpark Regulator :: I was never happy with the Alton Alternator in the original incarnation but the solid state regulators available today from TriSpark in Australia have completely transformed the charging characteristics. • 520 O-Ring final drive chain :: This was sourced from the VOC Spares shop and is also probably essential with this engine. I have the highest possible road gearing and the bike idles along at 70 mph and 3,000 rpm. On paper it is geared for 150 mph at 6,500 rpm (and on paper I am unfeasibly brave!) • Ikon dampers :: While the damper are good on smooth surfaces they are very stiff. The verdict from others is that the ride is not as comfortable as modern machinery. • VOC Spares 8 inch front brake with balance beam brace :: The brakes are very effective, but the real surprise was the brace for the balance beam. For all those years I thought the front brake cable was stretching when in fact it was actually the balance beam mounting plate distorting under load and simply taking up all of the extra pull on the brake lever. Every Vincent should have one of these. • 21 inch front rim :: One of my requirements was decent road going rubber and that necessitated a 21 inch front rim. 19 inch was the other option but the 21 inch rim looks good and also takes out a few of the smaller bumps before they get through to the Ikon Dampers. • Neal Videan side stand :: Every Vincent owner needs one of these, even if they don't know it. The 21 inch front rim makes it even more necessary.
• Replica Smiths Electronic Tacho and Speedo :: These instruments are expensive but they really complete the machine, and they are perfectly accurate
• There were also numerous other small modifications and parts including loads of stainless steel replacement nuts and bolts, LED tail light insert, and battery moved to right hand side on a stainless tray. The final result is impressive. The bike starts easily (now that I figured out a brand new set of idiosyncrasies), idles perfectly even when cold, and goes like the proverbial! The brakes might not be a match for modern discs, but they certainly beat the original Norton Commando disc brakes of the seventies. The ride is probably too stiff for most people but it is perfectly stable and true and a real pleasure on high speed sweeping bends. My mate Tony Ford who rides a Ducati Sport Tourer had a go and offered the following afterwards: "Riding the Vincent was a revelation – the bike was rock steady carving through fast winding roads, with impressive mid range torque allowing slingshot exits from each bend. While the ride was understandably not quite up to modern bike standards, the stability and handling of this 60+ year old motorcycle could not be faulted - and the big twin sounded magnificent!" Mission accomplished, as they say! I didn't get here on my own and there are number of people who deserve my thanks:
Terry Prince for the 1200 top end kit and for patiently fielding my phone calls along the way, and for all the excellent technical tips and advice.
Mal Hewett for even more technical advice (especially on where to stick that wine cork) and for lots of encouragement when I had to go around again on a few occasions
Ryan from Custom Paint for the excellent paint on the cycle parts
Terry Stacy for all the modifications and repairs to the really old bits
Ray Abbott for the big machining work on the crank case to get the top end kit to line up
Budgie at Spokewheel Services for the wheels
Mike Crossing for the stainless steel tray to shift the battery to the other side
Mario from Thunderbikes for lots of help with the Dellortos.
Andy and the people at Pazon for the special advance ignition unit and their technical support.
If you read Letters to the Editor in this edition, then this item will not come as a surprise. Back in 1962, Phil Irving wrote the following letter. Now Phil’s handwriting was not quite as elegant as his engineering so OVR has ‘translated’ it for you.
10 Cranley Place London SW7 England 8/8/1962
Geno’s Cycle & Speed Shop Wanwatoso, Wis. USA Dear ‘Geno’
Late last year you wrote to me at my Australian address regarding your Vincent. At the time I had just got back there from England and was preparing to set off on a long trip into the interior. After my return I again set sail for England, where you will notice I am now, and what with one thing and another your letter kinda got overlooked along with many others I am afraid.
Anyway I would like to apologize for my seeming discourtesy in not answering sooner and
by now it’s probably too late anyway. Well with regard to your setup it sounds pretty good to me. From reports I hear the ‘Alpha’
big end is OK although some riders won’t agree. Myself, I always use as a replacement the caged bearing for which full dimensions of pin and cages are given in my book ‘Tuning For Speed” 4th edition. Would prefer 1 5/8” x 56” pipes for better get-away, the big ones don’t chime in until over 3000 rpm.
Not sure about the 1 ½” Dell’Ortos. In fact I don’t know much about
them. George Brown only uses 1 5/16” GP Amals on “Nero” with a length of 13” from valve to end of air intake. I have used 1 3/8” GP Amals with success however on a racing outfit. Despite lots of people using telescopic forks the Girdraulic is OK and can be lightened quite a lot by milling the blades into a dumb bell section.
One problem is keeping down the front wheel. The answer
here is to lower the whole machine by repositioning the front axle and dropping the rear end. Also you want longer rear forks to get more weight towards the front. This can be done by extending the engine plates to shift the fork pivot 2” further back. Make up a simple frame to carry the seat rather like this.
Retain the existing rear fork (rigidity!) and use a pair of Girling
units such as used on B.S.A. twins. Attach these to bolts made up to fit the large holes in the rear fork ends which are tapped ¾” x 20 TPI thus.
That way you can get the engine low enough so it just clears the ground on full bump. You
won’t have much cornering angle but you don’t need it anyway for dragging. You can use the oil tank for fuel and make up a pint tank for oil as that is all you need. Throw away the banjo feed on the pipe to the pump and fit a straight union with the biggest hole you can get. A lot of big end trouble is directly caused by the oil just not following the varying suction strokes of the pump. Castrol R20 or its equivalent should be used.
Workshop
Wisdom
You don’t mention any gearbox modifications other than lightened cam plate, but each
alternate dog on top and third gears should be ground out also the internal dogs on the standing gear. This was standard practice on Lightning boxes and improved the change a lot. The internal dogs are easily knocked out with a solid hard punch and a heavy hammer. Naturally you remove the dogs which are already cut back 1/16”.
The change can be made more positive by this mod:
1. Put a dob of weld on the 4 ratchet teeth then re-machine
to form straight sided notches about 1/8” wide all equal
instead of ramps thus (diagram here) No need to
reharden after welding.
2. Soften pawl teeth and file out to fit notches thus
You will see that when the ratchet tries to overrun, as it can at present, it is now prevented
from doing so by the square faces as long as the pedal is held momentarily at either extreme of travel and not just dabbed and let go. However overrunning is still possible due to the pawl carrier being able to rotate so allowing the teeth to lift out. To stop this, modify the centralizing spring plate thus by welding on a pair of ¼” nuts with screws and locknuts so that they can be adjusted to just contact the loops of the centralizing spring when the pawl carrier is moved to its full extent either way.
It is possible your spring plate already has a couple of
turned up ears which act the same way but if so they must be reinforced somehow otherwise they bend. If you do this job
properly it is impossible to overrun any gear and get the next neutral. The Oillite bush in the gearbox hollow main shaft doesn’t like racing much, I think the
material compresses under load when 2nd gear is engaged but you can bore out the shaft to take a ¾” long Torrington bearing; there is one which just fits the shaft which is 15/16” diameter and hardened. I have also fitted a Torrington to the inner clutch sprocket bearing boring out the existing bronze bush; but you really also need another collar on the clutch shaft. The existing one
has a section thus the new one has to be thus otherwise the bore in the bronze bush is just equal to the existing collar diameter and the location of the sprocket is poor. That about completes all I know about boxes.
As to wilder cams you are asking a lot to get more power at both ends. About the only way
is to use the same timing but greater lift which you can get by dog-legging the rockers. Move the hole 1/8” towards the push rod end to alter leverage and either make new bearings or reverse the existing ones & drill another locating hole 1/8” off centre. The rockers are KE805 steel, approx. 1 and ½% nickel chrome and if you weld up the hole first, can be re heat treated to 70 tons (treatment quoted somewhere in ‘Tuning For Speed’).
You can sneak a bit of weight off the rockers by grinding the ends to 1/16” round the
adjuster threads also cut off the adjustor heads & add a slot for a screw driver. Some of the boys here use duralumin push rods. 3/8” diameter in centre and barrel ended run direct in the cups and don’t seem to wear much if the cups have already been polished. Don’t save weight by lightening the beam portions other than simple polishing.
Well that’s about all short of writing a book which is something I only do usually for some
financial consideration! Which reminds me; one I had published recently called “Automotive
Engine Tuning” which should be available in the U.S. has a section what gives all the dimensions for stroking a Vincent to 99 mm to give 1098cc.
Yours sincerely
Phil Irving PS: Will be in London at above address till November. Excuse scrawl, but I can’t dictate
this stuff and can’t work a typewriter either!)
And just in case you were wondering here is the Masters original:
One of a Team An Enthusiast Who Decided to Work in the Vincent H.R.D. Motor Cycle Factory Describes his Impressions By Ken Craven
The original of this item, published in The Motor Cycle, December 16 1948, was too damaged for photographic reproduction. OVR has retyped
the text and done its best with the photos.
AFTER many years of engineering, in various
capacities, I decided to take the plunge and
apply for work in a motor cycle factory. There,
by all rights, I should find contentment,
helping to manufacture a product which was
of real interest to me. Let me say at the start
that whatever cautious hopes I possessed have
been more than fulfilled. It is a factory of high
efficiency where most of us, I think, find that
work is something more than a dull necessity.
At the Vincent H.R.D. works the machine shop
manager's office is built up a foot or so higher
than the factory floor, and from the windows
one can survey the whole set-up. While
waiting there for my interview I passed the time by looking out at the array of up-to-date machinery set out
in a spacious factory where there was plenty of room to walk and move freely. The scene was blissfully
clean and orderly, with materials and parts stacked in neat piles. Although a lot of activity was going on,
there was no indication of fluster or commotion. Every single person appeared to be concentrating on
some-thing, yet there was no sign of an overseer laying down the law or trying to look active by flapping a
piece of paper. My impression was of an almost effortless and synchronized flow of production.
Most people, I should imagine, feel about as uncomfortable as I do when starting a new job. But the charge
hand who showed me to the centre lathe put me at ease right away. “You’ll be all right here," he said.
“Nobody will bother you if you do a reasonable day's work. I haven't time to show you the ropes just now,
but if you want any help, just ask any of the chaps. They're a pretty good crowd."
From my lathe I could see the rest of the turning machinery, which is grouped together in about one
quarter of the shop. There are several automatic lathes served by one attendant, whose job is to keep them
fed with bar material. Then there are two rows of large-capacity capstans (or turret lathes) each with their
boxes or piles of finished work alongside. Collectively, this equipment has a prodigious output, and
sometimes a run of a week or so with one machine produces enough parts for many months' production.
In other circumstances the two skilled setters would be breathless dealing with the setting and day-to-day
adjustments and tool sharpening. Their work is not arduous, however, as the plan for machine setting is
the best that I have met, and seems to me so logical and trouble-saving that I am surprised it is not the
general practice in engineering shops. When, in the first instance, a machine is set to run a part, all the tool
bits and holders are numbered and a written description (together with illustrations), is recorded.
Although months may elapse between runs, as soon as a part is required the same tool bits are available as
well as the detailed plan for setting.
The setters are also spared a good deal of time because the operators of the machines are usually capable of
dealing with the tool sharpening and any readjustment that may be necessary. Machine minding, which so
often is regarded as an unskilled and dead-end job, is not so here. Workers are encouraged and instructed
to do what they can for themselves and are given opportunities for advancement.
A vertical automatic of substantial dimensions, machines such parts as flywheels and clutch housings at
about eight times the speed that the work could be done on centre lathes. The machine is fascinating and I
find it impossible to pass by without pausing to watch. There are six large chucks mounted horizontally on
a circular table. Five of the chucks are revolving and each component—one per chuck—is undergoing one
of a series of operations. Meanwhile, the sixth chuck is Stationary for unloading and reloading. Then, after
from 2 to 3 minutes, the whole table moves round one notch and another part emerges completely
machined.
A streamlined, horizontal automatic where the chucks whirr, illuminated behind glass panels, deals with
smaller parts with the same efficiency. But it is the gear-cutting machines that strike me as coming the
nearest to production perfection. A setter-operator attending to two semi-automatic lathes machines the
forgings ready for the tooth cutting. A woman machine-minder loads the four auto-gear-cutters which
together turn out from 120 to 200 gears or sprockets each day.
The grinding section is lavishly equipped. Most of the working parts which go into the model, after being
turned or shaped, are heat hardened and must be ground afterwards to overcome any distortion that may
have taken place. In addition, grinding is also the best method for producing an accurate and fine finish.
Split thou. limits are imposed on many of the parts finished by grinding, and my own experiences in the
department taught me that to produce components correct to two ten-thousandths of an inch requires care
and experience even when the equipment is the best available. It is simple enough to fix the part between
the two centres ; a lever is then pressed; the part revolves and the whole carriage moves slowly forward on
to the grinding wheel, which is spinning round with a surface speed of 8o m.p.h. The sparks fly through
the torrent of liquid coolant and slowly die away as the stop on the automatic feed comes into operation.
The part is then removed and pressed between the feelers of a clock gauge, when the needle should flicker
within a tenth thou. or so of true size.
Sensitive to Temperature
So far so good, but it is not quite so foolproof as all that. Not only is there wear of the abrasive wheel, but
the apparatus, with its bulk of metal, is sensitive to changes in temperature—and its own motors create
heat—which cause expansion or contraction. An experienced operator will anticipate variations and make
readjustments before valuable material is lost through being ground undersize.
No, these machines are not foolproof, and my own endeavours with one of the surface grinders is likely to
become legendary. The piece to be ground was small and did not hold too well on the plate of the magnetic
chuck. I was in a hurry and the sparks really flew. Cronk ! There was a jagged hole in the window of the
chief inspector's office. The lean features of that gentleman peered out.
" Missed me! " he said dryly.
To my dismay, he was followed out by the manager, and I had visions of being outside in the rain.
" A poor shot ! " he said as he peered at me over his glasses, and added with some severity. "But fit a screen
on that machine before you use it again."
The internal grinding and honing of bores is done in a series of operations through a number of specialized
machines. To make production easier a tolerance is allowed of ½ thou either way on big-ends and cylinder
sleeves, but these are then graded to size ( !) to be paired with correspondingly assorted mating parts. The
honing stones are automatically trimmed by a diamond after each part is completed. This, of course, results
in the stone losing a fraction of its diameter, and the controls of the machine are ingeniously adjusted each
time, automatically, to compensate for the decreased size of the stone.
The first thing expected of every
operator is that he or she should be
conversant with all types of
measuring equipment and to
apply all their diligence to seeing
that the job is right. An abundant
supply of every type of device for
measuring exists—from set gauges
to dial mikes, verniers and depth
mikes. The instruments are taken
to the machine where the job is
being run, and it is up to the
operator to inspect every part
himself, and to sort out doubtful
or scrap components.
This is not to say that the
inspectors are any the less alert;
they spend most of their time on
the floor working their way from machine to machine. After the double check by operator and inspector,
the more vital parts go to the view room for final scrutiny. Here they can be surveyed on a comparator, the
dial of which registers to 10th part of a thou. In this department there is just about everything needed to
measure literally to microscopic sizes. Two hardometers are installed for testing the surface hardening of
parts; this is a necessary check when items have been ground after hardening. A diamond-pointed plunger
is brought to bear on the surface and instruments register the depth of penetration.
Drilling and Tapping
Perhaps the busiest section of the shop is the one dealing with drilling and tapping, for there must be a
thousand or more of these operations for each motor cycle produced. In common with the rest of the
factory, the department is equipped with batteries of modern units. Several small bench drills which can
exceed 6,000 revs per minute are available for light work.
The multiple drills, two rows of them, are designed to he set-up in series for drilling up to six to eight holes
of different sizes or depths which may be required in one component. The operator simply slides the jig
along the table from spindle to spindle. The heavier work, such as cast crankcase parts, is dealt with by
massive installations which remind me of the gantry type of crane. The great overhanging arm which
supports the power unit and spindle, swivels on a pillar 18 inches in diameter. These machines can be fitted
with quick-release chucks so that drills can be changed in a flash which the chuck is rotating.
Two multiple spindle apparatus
tower up nearly ten feet in height.
On one of these the cluster of drills
bores fifteen holes simultaneously
through the brake drum and spoke
flange in less than half a minute.
The drills, together with the nearby
milling machines, rely on jigs and
fixtures to turn out rapid and
accurate work. One half of the
crankcase has more than fifty holes
of various depths and diameters and
the distance between centres has to
be correct within 0.001 inch.
The tool room where the jigs and
special tools are made is equipped with the usual lathes, grinder, shaper and other orthodox machinery. In
addition, there are two elaborate installations with a host of uses. One of these is a universal miller with
almost as many knobs as an aircraft cockpit. The collet for holding the milling cutters can be fixed in
almost any position, while the table can move in all directions, mechanically, and at variable speeds.
Added to its normal function of planning and shaping it can cut splines and gears. By fitting a chuck and
using drills any number of holes can be drilled in a plate accurate to within 0.001 inch between Centres
without resorting to rule and eye marking off. This is all done through the controls which are graduated in
decimals down to the thou.
The second installation, several tons of elaborate mechanism, is a horizontal borer, used for cutting holes in
jigs. A tool holder is attached to a slide on the face-plate and the extent to which it is off-set determines the
dimension of the radius. The boring head moves up or down, while the carriage, to which the plate to be
bored is attached, moves transversely. Again, by use of the vernier graduated controls, holes can be located
with an accuracy impossible to achieve by manual methods. Jigs and tools must not only turn out precise
work but must be easy to manipulate and quick to reload. Every single operation which is required in the
production of every part is recorded on the operation schedules, down to such items as " Remove burrs,
file." All methods are under constant review for simplification or improving the quality of workmanship.
The tool-room staff is kept busy modifying or producing new and better jigs and equipment. The drive for
ever-increasing efficiency is relentless.
The unspectacular work of the co-ordinating and auxiliary departments—progress, stores, supply, and so
on—blends in so smoothly as to be taken for granted. But it is they who contribute so much to the
streamlined working in the factory by seeing that the supply of materials and the flow of parts from one
operation to the next is never delayed.
Sensible Organization
At the tool stores nearly everything needed for production is obtained over the one counter—whether it be
a file handle, chuck, jig, or blue-print. This is sensible organization, since in all too many factories one has
to tour the entire shop, meeting with red tape and impediments, in order to collect everything which is
required.
To my mind, it is the simple and common sense practices that have contributed to high efficiency as much
as the excellent equipment. The mounting of drawings and schedules on stiff board so that they can be
propped up for easy reference; and the provision of air lines so that machines and parts can be blown clear
of swarf are examples of the thought given to details.
I came to the Vincent H.R.D. factory to learn, and from the technical viewpoint I could not have done
better. But I have also learned something of co-operation. The sort of good fellowship that one finds on the
road is to be found here where the machines are made. It is, above all, a happy community.
As I work at my bench in the view room I look back at my former post as a works manager without any
regrets. My successor is welcome to the honour. I have found a job that suits me—and that is worth a lot of
glory.
Vincent Frame Suffixes Well I don’t know about you lot but I struggle to remember most things these days – some would say especially speed limits, but that is a separate topic. In my case the Frame numbers on my Comet end with a “\C” . No its not a mistake, it has a back slash and NOT a virgule. Most of the time the Stevenage factory used a virgule (or forward slash) as the separator though occasionally the stamps were inadvertently rotated resulting in a back slash. Yet another Vincent quirk.
So what does this “C” mean? "C" = metric tapered rollers,
"D"= ball and roller retained by circlip,
"E"= ball and roller retained by screwed ring and split pin.
Source; "Richardson"
There is also:
/A metric taper rollers FRONT wheel only
/B metric taper rollers REAR wheel only
/C metric taper rollers in BOTH wheels
You can also get just B for Black Shadow and a combination of B/C etc.
Buy, Swap n’ Sell
If you have anything that you want to buy, swap or sell you can now do so, free of cost, in this section of OVR. All you need do is send a email to the editor of OVR with the text of your advertisment. OVR will NOT be providing any editorial or corrections. Of course OVR cannot accept any responsibility for anything to do with the items advertised –
that’s a buyer/seller matter. Items will be listed in 2 consecutive editions of OVR.
For sale. Craven Panniers and small top box. Offers around A$400. Does not include bike or rack. These look like the original fittings to a 1968-71 Triumph Saint (NSW Police bike).
Would come up nice when painted black. Located in Sydney, Australia. Contact me if interested. [email protected]
For Sale. My Feet Forward machine featuring Difazio Hub Centre Steering, fantastic front brake, cast iron disc's & racing AP callipers, full weather protection & top box. Vincent series D type centre stand & side stand. Manufactured 30 years ago with no problems with chassis & carrying full Victoria rego. Honda FT 500 engine, rear wheel & wiring loom & of course electric start. Haggling starts at A$13,000.00 for a completely different machine. If you collect bikes this is one for your stable!
Located in Victoria, Australia. Email [email protected] for more info.
The Service Providers listed have been used with a degree of satisfaction by OVR readers in the past. Just because they are listed does not imply an endorsment of them by OVR. Service providers are not charged a fee for this service nor can service providers
themselves request that their information be included, though they may request that an entry refering to them be removed.
Spares: V3 Products, Australia: (aka Neal Videan) has an extensive range of top quality Vincent Spares including multiplate clutches for twins, oil leak eliminator kits, socket head tappet adjusters, paper element oil
filters and lots lots more. Ships worldwide. Email for a price list to [email protected]
Coventry Spares Ltd, USA: Fantastic service and deep product knowledge plus extensive range of
excelent Vincent Spares and tools. Ships Worldwide. See website for more information
http://www.thevincentparts.com
Conway Motors Ltd, UK: Anti-Sumping Valves, Comet Multi-Plate clutch conversions for Comets plus an
extensive range of excelent Vincent Spares. Ships Worldwide. Email for more information steve@conway-
motors.co.uk
VOC Spares Company Ltd, UK: Full range of Vincent Spares. Ships Worldwide. Visit their web site for
more information http://www.vincentspares.co.uk.
Terry Prince Classic Motorbikes, Australia: Specialises in restoration, manufacture of new parts, and
the development and manufacture of high performance components for Vincent motor cycles. For more
information visit the web site Click Here or telephone +61 2 4568 2208
Fastline Spokes, based in Broadford, Victoria, can supply Australian made spokes for just about any
bike. Owner Bruce Lotherington manufactures spokes to order with a turn around time of less than 1
week. For more info see www.fastlinespokes.com.au or phone (+61) 0411 844 169
Union Jack Motorcycles, Australia: Full range of Triumph, Amal and control cable parts, plus an
extensive range of Vincent parts. Ships worldwide. More info at the website www.unionjack.com.au
Nuts n Bolts: Acme Stainless Steel, UK: All stainless steel fasteners are machined to original samples supplied by
customers and clubs over the years to enable us to keep your machine looking authentic and rust free! Ships Worldwide. More info at their web site www.acmestainless.co.uk
Classic Fastners, Australia: Classic Fasteners is a family owned business, established in 1988. Their aim
is to supply obsolete and hard to obtain fasteners for your restoration project be it a professional or private
venture. The print catalogue, available for download, lists the current complete range. Ships Worldwide. http://www.classicfasteners.com.au/
Precision Shims Australia: All types of shims made to your requirements, ships worldwide. More info at their web site www.precisionshims.com.au
V3 Products (see entry under Spares above) also stocks a large range of Vincent specific nuts n bolts.
Keables, Australia: The original nut n bolt specialists who are able to supply just about anything with threads and bits to match such as taps n dies. Recently have relocated to 11 Braid St, West Footscray,
Vic. Ph 03 9321 6400. Web site www.keables.com.au
Restoration Services:
Steve Barnett, Australia. Master coachbuilder and fuel tank creater who does incrediable workmanship; located in Harcourt, Victoria. Ph +61 3 5474 2864, email [email protected]
Ken Phelps, Australia – Qualified aircraft engineer and builder and daily rider of Norvins for over 30
years, who has the skill and experience to carry out overhauls, rebuilds, general repairs and maintenance to Vincent HRD motorcycles. Full machine shop facilities enabling complete engine and chassis
rebuilds, Painting, wiring, polishing, aluminium welding and wheel building. Ken Phelps Phone:
(61+) 0351760809 E-mail: [email protected] . Located in Traralgon, Victoria, Australia
Outer Cycles, Australia: Jim Browhly is a master craftsman who manufactures bespoke motorcycle
exhaust systems for classic bikes, no job is beyond his capability, so if you do need a new system that will
be made to your precise requirements, give Jim a call, telephone 03 9761 9217.
Grant White – Motor Trimmer, Australia: Specialising in Vintage and Classic Cars and Motorcycles.
Located in Viewbank, Victoria. ph 03 9458 3479 or email [email protected]
Ace Classics Australia is a Torquay Vic. based Restoration business specialising only in British Classic
and Vintage Motorcycles. Complementing this service, they provide in-house Vapour Blasting, Electrical
Repairs and Upgrades, Magneto and Dynamo Restoration plus Servicing and Repairs to all pre-1975
British Motorcycles. They are also the Australian Distributor and Stockist for Alton Generators and Electric Starters. Phone on 0418350350; or email [email protected] . Their Web page is
www.aceclassics.com.au
General Services :
Peter Scott Motorcycles, Australia: Top quality magneto and dynamo services, from simple repairs to complete restorations plus a comphrensive range of associated spares. Provides hi-output coil rewinds
with a 5 year warranty. For more info contact Peter on (02) 9624 1262 or email