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MendelMax 2.0 Hardware Assembly Guide
Edition 1.5http://www.makerstoolworks.com/
Freenode IRC: #makerstoolworks
First off we would like thank all of our beta testers for their photos and input on this
assembly guide. Their dedication and support toward us has been great.
Thank you for purchasing the MendelMax 2.0 kit.
This is a living document and we encourage your comments to improve the experience for
everyone. Commenting is enabled in the insert menu.
1st highlight the area of comment, then click Insert -> Comment
Due to changes Google made in the Comment feature, we have had to temporarily disable
public commenting. We hope Google addresses the issues they created with their recent
upgrade, and we will be able to restore this valuable feature. In the meantime, if you have
any comments on our docs, please email [email protected] and we will
address them.
PLEASE VERIFY KIT CONTENTS WITH THE PACKAGING SLIP
BEFORE BEGINNING ASSEMBLY.
mailto:[email protected]://www.google.com/url?q=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.makerstoolworks.com%2Fcontact-us%2Fwebchat%2F&sa=D&sntz=1&usg=AFQjCNGpEpzMg9oQiW3ZFFzUau9Jpihooghttp://www.google.com/url?q=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.makerstoolworks.com%2F&sa=D&sntz=1&usg=AFQjCNFJ_JfAKiz7eYS510wpxttU-u3uGQ5/19/2018 The Mendel Max 2.0 Hardware Assembly Guide
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MendelMax 2.0 Packaging Slip
We do our best to confirm the accuracy of each kit, but things occasionally get overlooked.
We are happy to replace any omitted parts if needed, but due to the costs of shipping we
can only send one package of replacements for omitted parts per order.
This document contains the following sections:
Getting Started
Assembling the Frame Base
Assembling the Frame Top
Preparing the X Axis Bushings
Assembling the X Axis
Assembling the Z Axis
Finishing the X Axis Assembly
Assembling the Y Axis
Mounting the Extruder and Hotend
Mounting the Electronics
Here is a plate reference to get familiar with the machined parts of your kit.
Laser Cut Plate Parts:
# Part
1 Front Plate A
1 Back Plate B
2 Triangle Bottom C
2 Triangle Top D
2 Z Motor Mount E
2 X Vertex F
2 Z Base Plate G
1 X End Idler H
1 X End Motor I
1 X Idler Tensioner J
https://docs.google.com/document/d/1Xlk_QpaTw5M9Hic49-hXjYPmWYOKYftWHrdlUfPVSRg/edit#5/19/2018 The Mendel Max 2.0 Hardware Assembly Guide
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2 Lead Screw Z Arm K
1 X Carriage L
1 Y Motor Mount M
1 Electronics Mount N
2 PSU Mount O
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Getting Started
This machine when assembled is a possible fire hazard, electrical hazard,
moving part hazard. Please use extreme caution when operating this machine and never
operate it unattended. Never place your hands anywhere under the bed of the machine
while the unit is plugged into the wall. For additional information about electrical concerns,
review the electronics assembly guide.
There are a few different types of screws used: SHCS: Socket Head Cap Screw,
BHCS: Button Head Cap Screw, FHCS: Flat Head Cap Screw
One method we found effective for attaching the laser cut plates to the extrusions is
to put the screws and T-nuts into the plate first. Sometimes this is much easier thanchasing a loose T-nut in the extrusion channel. This method is optional but will be utilized in
this assembly manual.
When attaching components look for the note of how tight to secure them. There will
be 3 levels ranging from: Loosely - For getting components prepared for assembly,
Snugly - To hold components in their general place but allow for further adjustment,
Completely - The component is in its final place and can be fully tightened.
Note:Rule of thumb for almost any fastener is turn it until it cant be turned with
finger pressure, then put your tool on it and give it a quarter turn.
Interactive 3D model
To view an interactive 3D model a Current version of Adobe Acrobat reader is
required. If you click on the image it loads the components and has a selectable blue
component tree on left.: https://www.dropbox.com/MM2 Beta.pdf
We also have a few video version of the assembly at these links below:
MendelMax 2.0 Assembly
MendelMax 2.0 Assembly Part 2
Candid view of Frame Assembly
Note:These videos are based off the old X and Z Axis, they will be redone with our
new design soon.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dH8MNrhESco&list=PLjIR7IiHg3ifLxGOHhsZy20ja2KCv8JsUhttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DZzWIimqbW8http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PMS00ll8lnwhttp://www.google.com/url?q=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.dropbox.com%2Fsh%2F3uyotd400xp2ef5%2FlE17LNaGG8%2FMM2%2520Beta%25202.pdf&sa=D&sntz=1&usg=AFQjCNFqSy-2pwcoMrIt8fAeiXAw6glNMQ5/19/2018 The Mendel Max 2.0 Hardware Assembly Guide
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The MendelMax 2 uses a few printed parts. We suggest you print out spare copies of each
to minimize any downtime. There are available here: MM2.0 STLs
Part Use
Beta 2 Lower Shaft Mount.stl Z Shaft Bottom P
Bushing Mount.stl Bushing Mount Q
Beta 2 Z Shaft Clasp Upper.stl Z Shaft Top R
Z Isolator S
Y Belt Clip.stl Y Axis Belt Attachment T
Y Stopper.stl Y Stopper U
Y-Idler-mount.stl Y Axis Tensioner Mount V
Y-Idler-tensioner.stl Y Axis Belt Tensioner Arm W
PSU Mount Clip.stl Power Supply Bracket A
X Endstop Mount X
Y Endstop Mount Y
Z Endstop Mount Z
ohmeye_mm2_extruder_guide_upper_b2.stl Used on MTW Extruder
ohmeye_mm2_extruder_guide_lower B2.stl Used on MTW Extruder
https://www.google.com/url?q=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.dropbox.com%2Fsh%2Fpipqtmksk6c2pii%2Fh675DKiQ0N&sa=D&sntz=1&usg=AFQjCNGDibzRwVh8PjGw9dKh8RQRe_S0NQ5/19/2018 The Mendel Max 2.0 Hardware Assembly Guide
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Assembling the Frame Base
Parts Needed:
# Part
4 420 mm Extrusion
1 Front Base Plate (A)
1 Back Base Plate (B)
1 RAMPS Mount Plate (N) Now Universal
2 PSU Mount Plate (O)
8 M5-10 mm Socket Head Cap Screws (SHCS)
8 M5 washers
4 M5-8 Socket Head Cap Screws (SHCS)
8 M5 T-nut
4 Rubber Feet
4 M5-14 mm Socket Head Cap Screws (SHCS)
Tools Needed:
4 mm Allen Key
Rafter Square, 12 Carpenter Square, or Combination Square.
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Steps:
1. First, check to ensure that your front and back plates are flat if they have been bent
during manufacturing from the laser heat, gently bending them back to flat to ensure
a rigid, aligned frame.2. Lay 2x 420 mm extrusions on your work surface and place the Front Base Plate
horizontally with its lower corner screw hole against the extrusion end. Washers are
optional here. Insert and completely tighten a M5-10 SHCS. Repeat on the other
bottom corner.
Note: The top of the plate is identified using the 3 middle holes.
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3. Snugly attach the Back Base Plate, with the large outlet hole in the rear corner, as
seen below, to the other end of each extrusion using M5-10 SHCS. It is important
not to use washers, as they block access to the extrusion channels. Verify that the
extrusion is square with the frame. Repeat for the other side.
Note: The top of the plate is identified using the 3 closely groupedmiddle holes.
Note: Your back plate may have an additional hole cut in it make certain
that the larger cut hole is in the back-left (as pictured), but the smaller cut hole
is in the back right.
4. Attach the other 2 top extrusions to the base plates snugly in a similar fashion using
M5-10 SHCS.
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5. Ensure squareness of the top extrusions using a square or flat table surface.
Completely tighten while holding the square or flat surface against the frame.
6. Prepare the Rubber Feet by inserting M5-14 SHCS and add a T-nut.
7. Slide 1 rubber foot down each bottom extrusion channel and completely tighten
them. The last 2 go on a few steps later.
Note:For difficult rubber feet, place the T nut on a turn or two, then placethe foot in position to be slid onto the extrusion. Put the allen key into the
SHCS and apply downward pressure on the allen key ONLY, not the rubber
foot itself, and you will see the T-nut drop down enough to fit. Slide it on and
before doing much else put at least another turn on the SHCS so you dont
have the T-nut drop off into the extrusion forcing you to start over. Slide it into
position and tighten completely.
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8. Insert a M5-8 SHCS and T-nuts into the Electronics Mount Plate and a M5-8 SHCS
and T-nuts into the 2 PSU Mount Plates.
9. Slide the Electronics Mount Plate T-nuts down the right-side bottom channel
through the pack, and the 2 PSU Mount Plates T-nuts down the left channel. Snugly
tighten them (See the next step for a picture).10. Install and completely tighten the last 2 Rubber Feet. You should have something
like below:
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Frame Top
Parts Needed:
# Part
1 Completed Frame Bottom Assembly
3 340 mm Extrusion (A little over 13 )
2 300 mm Extrusion (About 11 13/16)
2 Triangle Bottom Plate (C)
2 Triangle Top Plate (D)
2 Z Motor Mount Plate (E)
2 X Vertex Plate (F)
2 Z Base Plate (G)
2 Printed Lower Shaft Mount
36 M5-8 mm Socket Head Cap Screws (SHCS)
36 T-nuts
2 M5-10 mm Socket Head Cap Screws (SHCS)
4 M3-8 SHCS
Tools Needed:
2.5 mm Allen Key
4 mm Allen Key
Rafter Square
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Steps:
1. Identify the 340 mm extrusion with the tapped ends at set it aside from the other 2.
2. Take a Triangle Bottom Plate and fill all 6 holes with M5-8 SHCS. Loosely add
T-nuts to the other side. Repeat mirrored for other plate.
Note: The protrusion direction on the T-nuts, as well as the orientation of
the slanted corner of the plate and curved bottom corner.
3. Align the T-nuts and slide the Triangle Bottom Plate onto the Frame Base from the
back with the tabs pointing up, the angled tab at the back, and the curved corner
toward the front. Repeat for other side.
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4. Align the back edge of the Triangle Bottom Plate with the end of the extrusions, both
on the bottom and back edge. Completely tighten the plate to the frame. Repeat for
other side.
5. Place 2 T-nuts into the top channel of the extrusion, pushed forward of the Triangle
Bottom Plate. Repeat for the other side.
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6. Snugly attach one of the untapped upright 340 mm extrusion to Triangle Bottom
Plates front tab. Repeat for the other side. For the Z endstop insert 2 M5 T-nut down
the right vertical extrusions inside channel facing the frames center for the Z endstop
mount.
7. Prepare the Triangle Top Plate by filling the holes with M5-8 SHCS and T-nuts on 4
of the 5 holes, as pictured below. Repeat mirrored for the other side.
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8. Slide the Triangle Top Plate onto the outside top of the untapped 340 mm vertical
extrusion pointing toward the back end of the frame. Snugly tighten them in place.
Repeat mirrored for the other side. Align the plate with the open hole above the top
of the extrusion, later the top cross extrusion will set the final position.
9. Slide one of the untapped 300 mm extrusion down the back T-nuts of the Triangle
Top Plate and into the remaining tab on the Triangle Bottom Plate. Loosely tighten
the screws. Repeat on the other side.
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10.Prepare the Z Motor Mount plates by filling both holes with M5-8 screws and T-nuts.
Repeat mirrored for other side.
11.With the small hole facing outwards, slide the Z Motor Mount onto the end of the
tapped 340 mm extrusion. Loosely tighten all screws when the plates outside edge
is roughly even with the end of the extrusion (you will adjust these later).
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12.Prepare the X Vertex Plate by filling the holes with M5-8 screws and T-nuts. Repeat
mirrored for the other side.
13.Slide the X Vertex Plate onto the end of the 340 mm extrusion. Roughly align the
plate with the end and top of the extrusion and loosely tighten the screws. Repeat
mirrored for the other side.
14. If you plan to install the spool holder insert 2 M5 T-nuts in the top channel of this
assembly.
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15.Lower the assembly onto the frame with the X Vertex Plate on the back side of the
vertical 340 mm extrusions. Ensure that the T-nut on the X Vertex Plate goes into the
back channel of the 340 mm extrusion. Repeat for other side. Note: If the tabs from the Triangle Top Plate sticking up and obscuring
the assembly from being mounted, check the alignment of the 420 mm top
extrusions connected to the Front and Back base plates. Taking care to
keep the frame square, push down the entire horizontal 340 mm extrusion
until it is resting on the vertical extrusions.
16. Insert an M5-10 screw into the top tabs hole on the Triangle Top Plate. Tighten it,
taking care to keep the top 340 mm extrusion aligned with the two plates. Repeat on
the other side.
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17.Align the X Vertex Plate with both extrusions and tighten the 3 screws repeat for
other side.
18.Loosen the Z Motor Plate and slide them completely out against the vertical
extrusion and then completely tighten them when roughly centered on the extrusion.
Repeat on the other side. Note:You might have to adjust and tighten them in the Assemble The Z
Axis section.
19.Using a square, go through and verify the 340 mm extrusions are square with the
frame then snugly tighten any loose screws.
20.Prepare the Z Base plate by installing the printed Lower Shaft Mount with M3-8
SHCS Install the printed Lower Shaft Mounts underneath the Z base plates with the
V cutout section facing towards the plate (solid side on bottom). Repeat for other
side mirrored.
Note that the M5 screw in the foreground is there just to hold the piece up for the picture.
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21.With M5-8 SHCS mount the Z Base Plate against the front-side of the 340 mm
extrusion. Using your allen wrench, align the freely placed T-nuts to accommodate
the screws. The larger hole goes towards the inside of the machine, and the smaller
hole should be closer to the front of the printer. Repeat mirrored on the other side.
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Preparing the X Axis Bushings
Needed:
# Part
1 X End Motor Plate (I)
1 X End Idler Plate (H)
4 10mm Linear Bushing
4 Printed Bushing Holder Block
8 M3-10 Socket Head Cap Screw (SHCS)
8 M3 Hex Nuts
2 10mm Linear Shaft
Tools Needed:
2.5 mm Allen Key
Steps:
Note: The following step is critical to proper operation of your MendelMax 2. It is
suggested that you read through this section completely before doing the steps.
The printer utilizes Self Aligning Bronze Bushings which require some initial break in:
1. Wipe down the 10 mm Smooth Rod with rubbing alcohol or window cleaner on a
towel to ensure they are clean they need to be completely dry and oil-free
2. Taking 1 bushing at a time, place it on the Smooth Rod and flex them around like
below the black metal bushing body should move around the inside bronze bushing
5 degrees in each direction and rotate.
Note:You can carefully grip the bushing body with pliers or other tools.
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3. The kit has printed bushing holders, they each require 2 M3 nuts inserted in the 2
side cutouts, the flat smooth side is the bottom.
4. Insert the bushings to the blocks from the curved top.
Note: The bushing holders and bushings should remain oriented the
same way in relation to each other during mounting, otherwise binding orchatter may occur. See the third picture below.
Note:Make sure that the bushings are completely seated in the bushing
block. Using something hard like a board or book will help set them in tightly.
Note: If the bushings are loose inside the bushing holders, carefully
apply a small amount of super glue, making sure to keep any glue away from
the bronze.
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5. Carefully orient the two X End plates on your work surface in the correct way:
Place the X End Motor Plate on the right and the X End Idler Plate on the left
Each plate has two M5 holes, which should be facing the inside towards the
other plate.
If your plates are countersunk on one side, they may be countersunkincorrectly do not use the countersinks as a guide for the orientation.
The offset line shown should be the bottom edge closer to you.
6. If you have the printed bushing holders insert M3 Hex Nuts into the 2 side nut trap
openings. These are what secure the holders to the zx Ends.
7. Keeping the plates oriented correctly, align and completely tighten the bushing
holders to the backs of the X End Motor and X End Idler Plate using 8x M3-10
SHCS. Ensure that all of the bushing blocks are facing the same way, and that thebushings are inserted into the bushing blocks the same way.
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8. Insert a 10 mm Linear Shaft into the bushings and work it back and twist it inside the
bushings. While holding the rod and X end, push on a brass bushing with your
thumbs to force the bushing to self-align. Repeat and experiment with playing with
this until the X end moves with nearly no friction.
Note:Refer to this video for X End Preparation Your goal is to loosen and align them so that when held vertically, the
assembly slides freely down due to gravity.
To improve the alignment hold the plate and bushing assembly in one hand,
and wiggle the rod in the other hand.
Recheck the alignment and movement, ensuring that the assembly is able to
fall freely due to gravity. If it is binding, continue to play with the assembly in
your hand and torquing the rod.
Once complete, remove the rod from the assembly, being careful not to take
the bushings out of alignment.
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Assembling the X Axis
Parts Needed:
# Part
1 340 mm Extrusion (A little over 13 )
1 296 mm Extrusion (A little over 11 )
2 Lead Screw Mount (Z arm) Plate (K)
1 X End Motor Plate from the previous section
1 X End Idler Plate from the previous section
1 X Idler Tensioner Plate (J)
2 X Rails
2 X Rail Cars
4 M5-8 Low Profile Cap Screws of Flat Head (FHCS) (Batch 1 has BHCS)
6 M5-8 mm Socket Head Cap Screws (SHCS)
8M5 T-nut
10 M5 Washer
10 M3 T-nut
10 M3-6 mm Button Head Cap Screws (BHCS)
1 M5-25 mm Socket Head Cap Screws (SHCS)
2 605 Bearing
1 M5 Hex Nut
Tools Needed:
2 mm Allen Key
2.5 mm Allen Key
3 mm Allen Key
4 mm Allen Key
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Steps:
1. Prepare both X Rails filling the holes with M3-6 BHCS and M3 T-nuts.
Note:Yours may use fewer screws than is pictured this is fine.
2. Align the T-nuts and slide the long rail onto the top channel of the 340 mm extrusion.
Center it and snugly tighten it.
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3. Align the T-nuts and slide the short rail onto the top channel of the rear 296 mm
extrusion. Center it and snugly tighten it.
4. Prepare Lead Screw Z Arm Plate by filling the holes with M5-8 SHCS and T-nuts.
Repeat mirrored for the other side.
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5. Align the T-nuts and slide the Lead Screw Z Arm Plate onto the bottom channel of
the 340 mm extrusion. Align it flush to the end of the extrusion and snugly attach it as
it will need to be adjusted on final assembly. Repeat mirrored on the other side.
6. Prepare the X End Motor and X End Idler Plate by filling the holes with the M5-8
Low-Profile and T-nuts.
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7. Align the T-nuts and slide the X End Motor Plate onto the back channel of the 340
mm extrusion with the X rail on top. Snugly attach it as it will need to be adjusted on
final assembly.
In this picture, the assembly is rolled 90 degrees towards you, laying on its front.
Continued on next page...
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8. Insert the 2 identical X Cars into the front rail. Later in the assembly the 1 remaining
car will be installed into the rear rail. If there is a bow it can go either direction.
Note: If they have a bow these are preloaded cars and will feel stiff but
should require consistent pressure to slide around.
9. Prepare the X Idler Tensioner by using an M5-25 SHCS with 2 washers on it, thread
it completely through the the center hole on the plate then add 5 washers, add 2x
605 bearings, add a washer and secure the end with a M5 hex nut. You may need to
adjust the # of washers to make sure the belt is aligned in future steps.
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10. Snugly mount the X Idler Tensioner to the X End Idler Plate with a M5-8 SCHS and
washer allowing it to freely pivot. Put another M5-8 SCHS and washer loosely into
the slotted opening.
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11. Align the T-nuts and slide the X End Idler Plate onto the back channel of the
extrusion. Snugly attach it as it will need to be adjusted on final assembly.
Note that in this picture, the assembly is rolled 90 degrees towards you, laying on its
front.
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Assembling the Z Axis
Parts Needed:
# Part
2 10 mm Linear Shaft
2 Z Lead Screw
2 Z Coupler
2 Nema 17 Stepper Motor
12 M3-8 mm Socket Head Cap Screw (SHCS)
6 M3-10 mm Socket Head Cap Screw (SHCS)
2 Printed Smooth Rod Clip
2 Z Isolator
2 Zip tie
2 Delrin Z Nut
Tools Needed: 2.5 mm Allen Key
4 mm Allen Key
Steps:
1. Important:Run the Delrin Nuts up and down the Lead Screw shaft length to verify it
moves easily by hand, making sure to use the narrow end of the Lead Screw to
install the Delrin Nut.
Note: If they do not move smoothly, you can chuck the Lead Screw shaftin a power drill and work the nut up and down several (5-20) times to loosen
them up.
Graphite powder or machine oil can be applied if needed.
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2. Mount the Delrin Nuts to the the flat side of Z Isolators with using M3-10 SHCS.
Note: The Z Isolators are designed to eliminate any slight bends in the Z
lead screws from being transferred to the part being printed. See an
example video here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bsrV0gubg-U
3. Skip this step if you are using the Z Isolators:Mount the Delrin Nuts to the
underside of the Lead Screw Z Arm Plate, with the flange opening downward using
M3-10 SHCS repeat for other side.
Note that in this picture, the assembly is facing rotated 90 degrees away from you.
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4. Position the X Axis as shown on the frame with the Lead Screw Z Arm Plate nut
holders in the back. The plate that corresponds with a stepper motor should be on
the right hand side when viewing the printer from the front
5. Feed the Linear Shaft through the smaller hole in the Z Motor Mount Plate at one
end of the top of the frame, through the two linear shafts on the same side at end of
the X rail and into the smaller hole of the Z Base Plate. Repeat for other side.
Note:You may need to loosen and slide the X Ends in or out to achieve
proper alignment.
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6. Pass the Linear Shaft through the bottom, entering into the corresponding hole at
the base of the frame. Ensure that the rod is fully seated in the clips. Repeat for
other side.
7. Notice that shaft has some wobble at the top, this will act as an aiming sight to align
the Z Shafts. Make the snugly attached Idler X End screws loose. Use the position
of the X End on the X Axis, adjust it until the shaft is centered in its upper mount.
Completely tighten the X End screws once you find the 2 shafts center point.
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8. After getting the Z axis aligned with it at the bottom, check alignment with the X axis
raised to the top as well you may find that the bottom mounts moved farther apart or
closer together, taking care to ensure the corrections are split between the two
sides so as to remain centered. Continue perfecting alignment until the entire X axis
is able to freely fall from the top to the bottom.9. Take the printed Smooth Rod Clip and pass it over the shaft top. The flat side of the
smooth rod clip should face inward so it does not conflict with the step motor.
10. Secure it to the Z Motor Plate using M3-8 SHCS. Use an included zip tie around the
clamp to hold the rod.
11. Move the X Axis up and Down on the Z to ensure there is no binding. If you find any
major binding return to step 4 above.
Your Axis should behave like this video: Z Axis Movement
12. Position the Isolator with Delrin Nut under the Lead Screw Z Arm Plate passing the
open end above the Bushing Block and around the Linear Shaft.
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13. Feed the Lead Screw through the top of the Z Motor Mount with the shorter stub end
pointing down and screw it through the Delrin Nut.
Note: It takes a little effort to get the screw started as they do not initially
seem to fit, make sure to keep them straight too.
14. The Lead Screw Z Arm Plate will rest on the little bump of the Z Isolators.
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15. Prepare 2 stepper motors by attaching the coupler using the small 5mm hole, . The
couplers have small set screws already installed in them, align one to the shaft flat..
16. Lower the stepper onto the Z Motor Mount Plate putting the larger hole of the coupler
over the Z Lead Screw shaft and secure it with M3-8 screws. Repeat on the other
side.
Note: If you loosen the plate to get the stepper to fit, you may have to
re-align your rods in step 4 and forward.
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17. Adjust the Lead Screw shaft so the bottom is just above the Z Base Plate, then
tighten the two coupler set screws.
18. Set the distance between each sides X End bushing and Z Base Plate by adjusting
the Lead Screw shafts by hand. Later, you will fine tune this.
Note:Do Not use a levelbecause the printer will typically not be on alevel surface. The important thing is the distance relationship of the hotend to
the bed. Getting the X axis parallel with respect to the ed and perpendicular
to the uprights is the goal for alignment.
You will notice that the Lead Screw shaft bottom is unconstrained. The reason is very few
lead screws are perfectly straight and if you constrain both ends then any shaft wobble
will be transferred to the X Axis. OhmEye offers a nice Lead Screw isolator that you can
install later if you wish to change to constrained Lead Screws.
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Finishing the X Axis Assembly
Parts Needed:
# Part
1 X Carriage Plate (L)
1 X Rail (already on extrusion)
1 X Car
1 NEMA17 Stepper
1 GT2 Pulley
1 GT2 Belt
2 M5-8 Socket Head Cap Screws (SHCS)
1 M5-10 Socket Head Cap Screws (SHCS)
3 M5 T-nut
4 M3-8 Socket Head Cap Screws (SHCS)
6 M3-6 Button Head Cap Screws (BHCS)
2 M3 Washers
2 Zip Tie
Tools Needed:
2.5 mm Allen Key
4 mm Allen Key
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Steps:
1. Prepare the remaining short extrusion with the X Rail attached to it by adding 2
M5-8 SHCS and T-nuts to the bottom channel add an additional T-nut in the frontchannel for the X axis endstop.
2. Insert the remaining X Car into the rail.
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3. Install your X axis endstop to the X axis endstop mount using M2 screws the mount
is self-tapping, so nuts are not needed.
Note the orientation of the endstop on the mount, with the arm opening towards the top
your endstop may not look exactly as pictured here
4. Install the printed X axis endstop mount to the extrusion using a M5-10 SHCS as
pictured below.
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5. Align the extrusion with the slots on the Lead Screw Z Arm Plates and slide the M5
and T-nut into the slot. Loosely tighten the M5 screws.
6. Check the spacing between the X Rails, they should be an equal distance apart on
both sides. Align and completely tighten them.
7. Take the X Carriage Plate and snugly attach it to the cars using M3-6 BHCS. The
back car screws need M3 washers for the slotted holes.
Note:The tightness of the X Carriage to the cars may need to be
readjusted at a later time.
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8. Move the carriage left and right fully to align the rear rail.
9. Snugly tighten the rear rail M5 screws on the Lead Screw Z Arm Plates.
10. Check the carriage for binding and twisting. It will be stiff but should require
consistent force to move. There should be very little ability to torque the carriage by
hand. If not repeat the last 4 steps, keeping in mind that the positioning of the rear
rail impacts and car are the main tools to resolve this.
11. Completely tighten the rear rail M5 screws on the Lead Screw Z Arm Plates.
12. Install the GT2 pulley on to the stepper with the setscrew toward the end of the shaftfor proper alignment with the belt path consider adding some Thread Lock to the
setscrew to avoid issues later slide about 0.2 m of cable sleeving on the end and
attach it with zip ties
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13. Install the NEMA17 stepper motor and pulley on the X End Motor Plate using 4 M3-8
screws
14. Prepare a GT2 Belt by cutting it at 1 point.
15. Using the included zip ties pass the belt through the right-hand mount on the X
carriage with the back smooth side of the belt facing up fold the belt over itself and
secure the two toothed-sides together.
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16. Pass the belt over the top of the X axis stepper motors GT2 pulley, then under and
between the X end motor plate and 10 mm Smooth Rod.
17. Pass the belt under the X Idler pulley and then back over the top to meet the left side
of the X carriage with the loose end.
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18. With the X idler loose, pull the belt tight and simultaneously secure it to itself as you
did the other end with a zip tie.
19. Trim the free ends of the zip ties, as well as the free ends of the belts as you see fit,
leaving a little extra to ensure you can re-mount the belt in the future if necessary.
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20. Slide the X Idler to the left to ensure the belt is tight, then tighten the M5 SHCS in the
slotted channel to hold the tensioner in place.
Note:The belt should only be tight enough so that the top and bottom
parts of the belt cannot easily meet when pinched between two fingers and
twisting the belt 90 degrees around its axis should be difficult. Note:A very technical suggestion is using instrument tuning software to set
a proper tension.
Ideally, you want to tighten these belts until the lower part of the belt
(the one that isn't attached to the bracket or clip) vibrates between
130hz and 150hz. On a piano that's between C3 (C below middle C)
and D#3.
There are tuning apps for your cell phone or MP3 player that can help.
On Android, the FrequenSee app is useful. On iOS, the
SpectrumView app can do the job. Load the app, turn off the printer,wait for a quiet moment, and "pluck" the lower part of the belt. The app
should show a rise in frequency around 130hz to 150hz.
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Installing the Electronics
You might find it easier to install and wire the electronics before installing the Y Axis. This is
totally optional right now but does give you more room to reach the plugs on the electronics. Youcan follow those steps in the section after Assembling the Y Axis.
Assembling the Y Axis
Parts Needed:
# Part
1 Y Axis Rail
4 Y Axis Cars
1 24v KaptonBed Heater
1 Aluminum Heat Spreader
1 Borosilicate Glass (See unpacking tip below)
1 Y Undercarriage Plate
1 2020 Aluminum Extrusion, Length: 420 mm
7 M5 T-Nut
4 M5-12 mm Flat Head Cap Screw (FHCS)
6 M5 Thin Nut
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1 Thread Lock Packet
8 M6-10 mm Button Head Cap Screw (BHCS)
5 M6-16 mm Button Head Cap Screw (BHCS)
3 M5 Washers
3 M5-16 mm Socket Head Cap Screws (SHCS)
8 M6 Rubber Washer
2 M5-8 mm Socket Head Cap Screws (SHCS)
5 M5-10 mm Socket Head Cap Screws (SHCS)
3 Bed Bracket Clip
3 Silicone Pad
1 GT2 Pulley
1 GT2 Belt
1 Y Motor Mount Plate (M)
3 M3-8 Socket Head Cap Screws (SHCS)
1 NEMA17 Stepper
4 Zip tie
1 Printed Belt Clip
1 Printed Y Stopper
1 1x Y Idler Tensioner Assembly
Printed Y Tensioner Mount
Printed Y Tensioner Arm
3x 605 Bearing
2x M5-25 Socket Head Cap Screws
(SHCS)
2x M5-8 BHCS
2x M5-10 BHCS
4x M5 Hex Nut
4x M5 Washers
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Tools Needed:
4 mm Allen Key
Steps:Unpacking the glass bed: The glass is taped to styrofoam to protect it during shipping,
cut it free then the tape can best be removed by using heat from a blow dryer or a solvent
like rubbing alcohol with a scraping tool.
1. Take the 420 mm extrusion and lay it on the glass several different directions on
both sides to identify the flattest side and mark it for assembly.
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2. Insert a M5-12 mm FHCS into the rail mounting holes and loosely attach a T-nut
onto the screw from below the rail, repeat on all remaining rail holes.
Note:The rail will hang over each side of the extrusion by 2.5 mm this is
to provide stability when mounted on the printer frame.
Note:We use FHCS here to self-center the screw on the rail. They are
not meant to sit flush in the rail.
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3. Flip the rail over and ensure the T-nuts are aligned, then begin sliding the extrusion
over the T-nuts until all are inside the extrusion slot.
4. Flip the whole assembly over and even up the ends, remembering the 2.5 mm
overhang, then tighten the M5-12 FHCS.
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5. Prepare the Y axis endstop by mounting it to the Y axis endstop mount using M2
screws the mount is self-tapping, so nuts are not needed.
Note the orientation of the endstop on the arm, specifically with the arm opening towards
the mounting hole and on the flat edge rather than the uneven edge.
6. Mount the Y axis endstop on the rear right of the Y axis rail extrusion.
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Notice that the switch side is mounted on the top for the rear mount the switchs arm has
been removed for easier photographing it is not necessary to remove the switch arm.
7. Slide 2 cars onto each side of the linear rail.
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8. Set out the Y Undercarriage plate.
9. Apply Thread Lock to the three M5-10 SHCS and wait 10 minutes for the solution to
dry before doing the next step with these screws.
10.Prepare the Y Undercarriage plate by attaching the Bed Bracket Clip to the
innermost slots on each of the 3 arms with the M5-10 mm SHCS with a washer.
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11.Next add a M5 hex nut to the 3 leveling M5-16 SHCS and then install them into the 3
outermost holes on each of the 3 arms of the Y.
12.Repeat this setup on all 3 corners of the Y undercarriage.
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13.Loosely attach the Y undercarriage plate to the top of the 4 cars on the linear rail
using the M6-10mm BHCS using rubber washers between the plate and the screw
head.
Note:Some users have found not using the rubber washers works
better.
14.Tightly squeeze and hold the front cars together as you fully tighten the screws
repeat for the back. See a video of the process here:Adjusting the MendelMax 2.0
Y Axis Cars
Note: If you still find too much slop or binding in the Y undercarriage,
re-loosen the cars and try again. This may take a few tries.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r_BLpesCN8E&feature=youtu.behttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r_BLpesCN8E&feature=youtu.be5/19/2018 The Mendel Max 2.0 Hardware Assembly Guide
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15.Flip the whole assembly over and screw on the plastic belt mounting bracket under
the single undercarriage arm using M6-16 mm BHCS with Thread Lock on them.
16. Install the round printed Y stopper on the car opposite of the belt clip using a M6-16
mm BHCS.
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17.Prepare the Y Motor Mount by filling the holes with M5-8 SHCS and T-nuts.
18.Attach a NEMA17 stepper using 3 M3-8 SHCS in the Y Motor Mount holes.
Note: If the stepper has not arrived you may skip this step for now.
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19.Prepare the GT2 pulley by applying threadlock to the set screw.
20.Attach the GT2 pulley to the stepper by aligning the setscrew with the shafts flat
area.
21.Slide the the T-nuts of the Y Motor Mount onto the Y extrusion with the rail, putting it
near the end, as seen below and loosely tighten the screws.
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22.Mount the whole unit onto the MendelMax frame through the top center holes on the
Front and Back plate using M5-10 SHCS screws.
Note: Having the 2 Y corners facing the direction most accessible to
you will make leveling the bed easier.
23.Ensure the Y Motor Plate is against the Front Base Plate and completely tighten the
M5-8 SHCS.
24.Prepare the printed Y Idler Tensioner by inserting a M5 Hex nut into the single top
hole. You will need to carefully use a screw to pull the nut in and seat it properly.
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Note:The hole might need to be cleaned out due to the way it was
printed.
25. Insert a washer then 3x 605 bearings and another washer into the arm and secure
them with a M5-25 SHCS and M5 Hex nut.
26. Insert 2 M5 hex nuts into the bottom of the Y Tensioner Arm.
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27.Attach the Y Idler Tensioner to the Printed Y Tensioner Mount using 2 M5-10 screws
and the previously inserted M5 nuts this does not need to be particularly tight.
28. Insert a M5-25 SHCS into the top hex nut.
29.Mount the Y Idler on the outside of the Back Base Plate using 2 M5-8 SHCS with
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washers in the bottom holes with the point of the long adjustment screw against the
Back Base Plate.
Note:Have the long adjustment screw all the way out and just in into the
nut so you have room to tighten it up later.
30.Cut the GT2 belt from a loop into a length.
31.Pass one end of the belt under the belt mount, smooth side toward the extrusion,
then up around the outside and through the hole to fold over itself attach the two
sides together with 2 zipties. Note:Use a looped ziptie to help pull the belt through the bracket
32.Pass the belt around the GT2 Pulley on the Y axis stepper.
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33.Then pass the belt through the bottom of the Y idler bearings, then back through the
top of the Y Idler assembly.
34.Pass the end of the belt through the belt mount and up around folded over itself and
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attach it with 2 zipties, trying to keep as much tension on the belt as possible.
35.Tighten the tensioner screw so as to make it very tight with no slop.
36.Move the bed back and forth to verifying the belt tracks in the center of the rear
opening, if it is rubbing on the frame then reposition the belt on the belt clip until it
tracks properly.
37. Find the natural bow in the aluminum heat spreader, the bow will be the top side and
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the weight of the glass will flatten it and creates better thermal contact.
38. Install the 24v kapton heater using its adhesive surface onto the bottom side of the
aluminum heat spreader.
Note: If your kit included an extra adhesive sheet use it on the heater.
Some of the heaters had a weak unapproved adhesive installed.
39.Prepare the silicone pad by cutting it into 3 separate pieces.
40. If you plan to use the heated bed at 100C+ for ABS you should insulate the bottom
of the heater. The easiest solution is cardboard wrapped in aluminum foil.
41.Place the heat spreader with the heater down and then the glass onto the Yassembly and put a Silicone Pad between them and the Bed Bracket Clips.
Note: The 24v heater and thermistor wires go toward the back, zip tied
to the single arm of the Y plate with a bit of extra room for cable flex.
42.Adjust the Bed Bracket Clips snugly against the glass and completely tighten the
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M5-10 SHCS holding them.
Installing the Extruder and Hotend
Now that the bed is ready for leveling you need a reference point. The hotend or nozzle isthat final reference. If you purchased a full kit from Makers Tool Works, please follow the
assembly guide for the MaxStruder below:
MTW MaxStruder Assembly Guide
Older kits (ordered before March 2013) have different printed parts and need to refer to
(you can print your own updated parts from our website later):
MTW MaxStruder Assembly Guide (for orders before March 2013)
Otherwise, please refer to your hotend and extruder manufacturers guidelines for how to
assemble and mount them.
Mounting the Electronics
Note: if you purchased a hardware only kit from us, only the electronics mounts are
included. The following sections can be used for reference.
Parts Needed:
# Parts
1 Electronics Mounting Plate, mounted to frame
5 M3-12 mm socket head cap screw (SHCS)
3 M3 Hex Nut
3 Plastic PCB standoff
1 RAMBo electronics board
3 M4-8 mm socket head cap screw (SHCS)
1 Printed PSU mount clip
https://docs.google.com/document/d/1dp6jqqgFJHvKhvknEDu7UKKpRBy-nyKzOnqME6Prpdc/edit?pli=1https://docs.google.com/document/d/16q1g2RJH4XnJRbe1FXhnZC6Q0yZgMo51D1-_KX21zbk/edit5/19/2018 The Mendel Max 2.0 Hardware Assembly Guide
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Attaching Electronics to the Frame
PSU
1. Remove the fuse cover from the IEC fused panel plug and clip the fuse in the end ofthe fuse cover replace it in the power adapter with a click.
2. Mount the IEC fused panel plug to the back plate with two M3-10 screws with the
fuse on the bottom side.
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3. On the PSU, look for selector switch for 115 v/230 v and select the appropriate
voltage for your location.
Note:The PSU does not automatically sense the input voltage, so be
certain to select the appropriate voltage.
4. Using M4-8 BHCS screws, secure the bottom of the PSU to the two PSU Mounting
plates.
Note:The rear of the power supply needs to be about 30mm in front of
the rear of the RAMBo board to be able to plug in the power cable between
the two.
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PSU mount clip.
Note: While there is an additional hole in the PSU mount clip that may fit
an M5 screw, we do not recommend using this.
6. Attach your USB panel cable to the back plate directly in front of the electronics
mount using M3-12 SHCS screws.
7. Using the plastic cylindrical standoffs, M3-12 mm screws (head on the circuit-board
side), and M3 Hex Nuts secure the RAMBo to the mounting plate oriented with the
USB port towards the back of the machine.
Note:You might need to trim the spacers to work.
8. Attach your USB panel cables USB-B male connector to the RAMBOs USB
connector.
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Connecting the PSU and Print Controller
Make sure that power and USB are unplugged from the PSU and the print
controller. Be mindful that the connections that you will be making are 115/230 volt
AC connections. Anything touching any connectors or bare wire will risk shock
and fire hazard. This is highly dangerous. Use electrical tape or heatshrink to
insulate these connections where necessary.
PSU
1. Ensuring that the fused-side of the IEC connector is mounted down:
Attach the black wire with one female spade connector to the bottomconnector labeled L.
Attach the white wire with one female spade connector to the middle
connector labeled N.
Attach the green V style wire with one female spade connector on the end
to the top connector labeled G.
Note: In normal operation, these wires will carry current take
care to ensure that no stray wires are left unexposed on the PSU
terminal make sure the connector is tight against the IEC fused panel
plug do not leave any wire, connector, or pin exposed (useheatshrink and electrical tape as needed)
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2. Attach the black, white, and green wires to the PSU terminals as follows: black wire
to the screw terminal labeled L, white wire to the screw terminal labeled N, and
green wire to the screw terminal labeled ground with one of the following icons:
3. Attach the the black and red wire harnesses with the spade connectors to the PSU,
with the black wire in one of the three -V labeled terminals, and the red in the +V
labeled terminals (this will carry your 24 VDC)
Note:RAMBo uses 3 harnesses, and RAMPS uses 2 harnesses. If you
only received two harnesses, your print controller can still operate with by
using a simple workaround. Attach all of the harnesses that you have, and
review the note in the future section to see how it works
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Print Controller
1. Remove the 6-screw terminal connector from RAMBo to easily access the power
connections, noting the connectors orientation with respect to the RAMBo board2. Attach the stripped-end of your red and black wire harnesses to the 6 screw
terminal connector with the red wires in the terminals marked + and the black wires
in the terminals marked - the inside wire should start with a + reattach the
6-screw terminal connector to the RAMBo board
Note: If you received too-few harnesses, you can cut and strip both
ends of a small jumper wire to connect two + and two - terminals
together this way, you end up with both + and - connections hooked up in
parallel with the PSU, as done with the far-right pair in the picture below
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3. Attach your X, Y, Z, Z, and E0 (Extruder) axis stepper motors to their appropriately
labeled header pins attach it with the blue wire oriented closest to the RAMBo USB
connector.
Note: If your stepper motors move in the reverse direction when youpower on your printer, you can simply flip the connectors orientation only
do this when the printer is powered off, however.
4. Attach the hotend thermistor to the connector labeled T0, and attach the heated
bed thermistor to the connector labeled T2 on RAMBo (T1 on RAMPS) neither
of these connections have polarity.
Note:silver leads on the Jhead Thermistor is type 5, copper is type 1
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5. Attach the hotend heater cartridge to the screw terminal labeled Heat 0, and attach
the heated bed heater to the screw terminal labeled Heat Bed neither of these
connections have polarity attach the fan wires to the connectors labeled Fan 0,
taking note to connect the red wires to the + terminal and black wires tothe - terminal
Note:You will need to cut the old lead off the fan to use the screw terminals.
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Connecting the endstops
1. Mount the Z endstop using 2 M2-12 BHCS and 2 M2 nuts as shown. Use a M5-25
SHCS for fine adjust to trigger the switch.
2. On the endstops, connect them to the wiring with the black wire connecting to the
outer tab labeled C on the microswitch and the blue (or white) wire connecting to the
outer tab labeled NC on the microswitch there is no true polarity, however if your
wiring has a third wire, it may stay unconnected.
Note that this endstop is not connected just for easier viewing purposes
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3. Attach the three sets of endstop wires to the connectors on the board labeled
Endstops just beside the USB connector they connect to the min endstop side
closest to the USB connector, leaving the farther 3 max connectors empty.
Note: You will attach these endstop wires and endstops to your printer
after printing your own endstop mounts later in this guide
Leveling the Bed
1. Begin by ensuring your X Axis is parallel to the main printer frame.2. Adjust the single center bed leveling screw to its highest position and verify it clears
the center rails mounting screws.
3. Position the hotend nozzle directly over the single center bed leveling screw.
4. Adjust the nozzle height to the glass so that a single sheet of paper can move
between them with only a slight bit of drag.
5. Slowly move the Y Axis to the opposite end of its travel. Keep the hotend nozzle in
the center.
6. Adjust the two outside corner bed leveling screw so that the nozzle is the same
paper thickness above the glass in the center.
7. Move the nozzle over one of the corner adjustment screws and verify the height is
correct,adjust as needed.
8. Move to the other corner screw and verify the height is correct,adjust as needed.
9. Move the nozzle back above the single center bed leveling screw and verify the
height is correct.
10.Move the nozzle to both back corners verifying the proper height.
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Final Assembly Steps
Check to make sure that all screws are tight.
You can now continue on to the:
MTW MendelMax 2.0 Electronics Guide
https://docs.google.com/document/d/1_MyhZGxlDHwk-ViArRlaPgt9GyoxVRLRHwys3SZJgiI/edit