The lost rocks v 2

No

rthu

mb

rian M

ou

ntain

eering C

lub

The Lost Rocks -

A Bouldering Guide

A series of downloadable PDF guides to new bouldering venues , problems, highballs and routes in Northumberland, including:

The Stell Whiteheugh Raven’s Crag

Caller Crag , Corby’s and Edlingham Greensheen Hill Parkside Wood

The Maiden Chambers Area St Cuthbert’s Cave The Bowden Area

The Wanneys Group Beanly Moor and Hunterheugh Blakey’s Bloc

Cockenheugh Kyloe Out Rothley

The Ravensheugh Area Banno Crags Titlington and the Turban

South Yardhope Brady’s Crag Coquet View

Shitlington The Lost World Lookwide

Howlerhirst High Crag

No

rthu

mb

rian M

ou

ntain

eering C

lub

NMC Northumbrian

Mountaineering

Club

Introduction... ...Northumberland Bouldering

TECHNICAL NOTES

The location of each crag is indicated by its Grid Reference.

Maps

The County is covered by seven Ordnance Survey Explorer (1:25,000) maps. Sheets 339 (Kelso), 340 (Holy Island), OL16 (The Cheviot Hills), 332 (Alnwick and Amble), OL42 (Kielder Water), 325 (Morpeth) and OL43 (Hadrian’s Wall). The majority of the crags lie on sheets 340 and 332.

General

On occasions the problems are referenced to routes that are not described in the climbing guide, or in the second edition bouldering guide. You may need these guides or to ask a local climber help you locate the problems.

Sit Starts

Most problems are written up as standing starts off one mat only! Generally sit starts are added at the end of a description where they add either to the difficulty, or quality. Only rarely will a sit start be separately named.

Rules

It has long been understood in Northumberland that if a twig is found on a ‘good’ foothold, then the foothold is out of bounds. The same applies to bedding planes , ledges and footholds in contact with the ground. Usually these are out of bounds. The previous guide wisely suggested that if you are wondering if the foothold is in, then it probably is not!

Further Information

The NMC website has a variety of resources relating to climbing in the County. If you have this PDF you’ve probably found it already. Otherwise go to: www.thenmc.org.uk

New Problems

Descriptions of new problems and routes should be sent to newroutes @thenmc.org.uk. A descrip-tion, grade, date and name of first ascensionist should be included. A photo with a line marking the route would also help.

1 2

Bob Smith

Greensheen Slopers Traverse

Greensheen Hill

BOULDERING GRADES

It is true to say that there are only two grades, the problems and routes you can do, and those you can’t. To the keen boulderer however it soon becomes apparent that this can be sub divided into the problems you can do and your mates can’t, and vice versa! Grading boulder problems (and some routes) is an almost impossible task. The table below is a rough comparison of the common systems in use. Visitors to the County will probably find that, until they get used to the style of the problems and the intricacies of climbing on the County’s various Sandstones, the accuracy of the table will be questionable. Grades are an art rather than a science, and while difficulty is central to bouldering, it is easily confused with quali-ty. The pursuit of which is an equally rewarding endeavour.

The various grading systems are well understood, and like grades are an ongoing source of debate regarding their respective mer-its.

In these PDF guides we have retained the Font grades introduced in the last guidebook and their use is now established and un-derstood.

Highballs

The height of many crags in the County demands a highball ap-proach. Mats can reduce the consequences when highballing goes wrong, but there comes a point when they look very small. Many of these ‘problems’ would have been considered small routes not long back, (though some in this new series are not so small) and occasionally are compounded with bad landings. Fall-ing off them should not be treated casually. While highballs are self-evident, many shorter problems have bad landings and need careful padding and spotting. Be careful!

Steve Blake

Dutch Courage

Shitlington

Photo: Alec Burns

FONT GRADE

UK TECH GRADE

V GRADE

3 4c VB

4 5a

V0

4+ 5b

5 V1

5+ 5c

6a V2

6a+ 6a V3

6b

6b+ V4

6c

6c+

6b V5

7a V6

7a+ 6c V7

7b

7b+ V8

7c V9

7c+ V10

8a 7a V11

8a+ V12

8b 7b V13

8b

8b+

8c

8c+

V14

V15

Introduction... ...Northumberland Bouldering

3 4

SUSTAINABILITY

The quality and durability of Sandstone in North-umberland varies significantly both on and be-tween crags. Iron hard rock with a case hard-ened patina can coexist with a super soft cheesy substance soft enough to be shaped by hand. Sadly there is much evidence that the tough pati-na when worn away reveals a soft inner that rap-idly erodes. There are many examples, but Vien-na at Bowden Doors is probably the most famous example, which in its current deplorable state is a much easier and sad shadow of the original .

Over the last thirty years the popularity of Rock Climbing and Bouldering has accelerated and there is much similar evidence of our impact on the crags. Routes and problems on Sandstone, especially on fragile and well-used Sandstone, are a finite resource and need careful and sensitive protection if they are to survive.

It is worth repeating that you should not climb on sandstone when there is any evidence of damp-ness. The rock becomes significantly weaker los-ing its bonding when damp, and is susceptible to accelerated erosion and breakage. Once a break occurs, or the outer patina is penetrated, then the effects of erosion are exponential.

Many magnificent routes in Northumberland have escaped significant damage, principally because the habit of top roping hard routes has not been adopted as readily as elsewhere. Bouldering however, is a particular-ly intensive game which can see a team cycling through repeated attempts on a problem, brushing and ragging between each effort. The impact of this can be seen on relatively recent problems on which holds are already bleaching out, and this is on rock thought of as hard.

We are the stewards of these places. There are many things we can do to minimise our direct impact on them:

1. Everyone should acknowledge and understand the fragility of the medium and learn to walk away if there is any suggestion of dampness and the rock is not in condi-tion.

2. Set yourself a realistic number of attempts at a prob-lem, if you can’t do it, leave it until you can do it without beating it into submission. We need to have enough hu-

mility to understand that the rock’s needs are more important than our egos. Learn to walk away and come back when you’re capable.

Vienna

Bowden Doors

David Murray

On Barnaby Rudge

The Good Book Section, The Stell.

Alec Burns collection

3. Be gentle with brushwork, and minimal with your chalk. Climbing indoors, we can brush the holds to our hearts content; outdoors, the effect can be catastrophic.

4. Poor footwork also impacts, so clean your shoes before you begin an attempt. Modern shoes allow a huge amount of force to be exerted through the feet, eg twisting on smears has a grinding effect that speeds up erosion. Be aware, use good footwork and tread lightly.

5. Don’t use the problems for training. Running laps may look cool, but do it indoors on plastic, not on the rock.

6. Take your junk home, don’t light fires, don’t leave gates open. If you must, learn how to shit in the woods. Do not be generally antisocial.

N

N

Crag Overview

Crag Detail

Location Data

Lat Long: Eastern Blocs, 55.298949 –1.888335

Crag Location Data

Crag Lat Long: (East Blocks) 55.299152 –1.879795

(West Blocks) 55.298189 –1.887189

P

P

The Stell

Rothbury South of

River

B 6341 to Thropton

B6341 to A

lnwick

Rothbury

Road open 2016

B6342 to

Scots Gap/Rothley

Wagtail Rd

Mill Lane Wagtail Farm

Rothbury

Gimmerknowe

Ship Rock

Garleigh Simonside Group

The Lost Rocks

Parking Locations

South Parking Lat Long: 55.294341 –1.895431

South Parking GR: NU 06737 00026

Introduction... ...Northumberland Bouldering

5 6

The Lost Rocks is the name given to a collection of blocks found on the South side of the Coquet, oppo-

site the Cragside Estate.

They are possibly the most unusual collection of boulders in the County, having been subject to some

unusual engineering by Victorian railway engineers whose aim was to ensure none of the boulders

would tumble down the slope onto the railway line, or worse, a train.

Many of the boulders are supported by masonry abutments and one has both masonry and two railway

ties securing it! The slope is littered with boulders and many small craglets and rocks are hidden in the

woodland below the boulders described here. This guide details the problems done so far . Further

down the railway line in a cutting, whilst the rock is good it is very dirty and rarely dry. One problem has

been done at the right hand end. It is doubtful if it’s further development is worthwhile.

Several other boulders are visible on the slope above Wagtail Farm . A number of problems have been

done here, but they are not on access land and the rock is not of the quality of the Eastern Blocks.

The best approach for the main blocks is to drive down Wagtail Rd (see opposite) and park at the end of

Mill Lane. There is plenty of space — Please do not block the lane it is used by large farm vehicles. Fol-

low the railway line East. Just after the second bridge (about five minutes from the car) a track goes up

and right through some saplings. Follow this and step over the fence. Follow a feint trail up and right for

about 50m to a tree with an unusual boss on the trunk. Skirt left around this and the boulder above,

then go straight up for 20m or so . The first pinnacle will be visible on the left.

The crag is in a fine position overlooking the Coquet, It is North facing and catches a breeze. The rock is

good, but need traffic . It is an excellent spot for a summer evening.

The crag is on Access Land and the approach track is a Public Footpath. The crag was found and largely

developed by Steve Blake, with contributions by Martin Waugh, Alec Burns and Bob Smith.

The First Bloc… ...Lost Rocks The Bondage Block… ...Lost Rocks

7 8

3

5

4

Dirty and usually damp,

the cutting is about 500m

further down the path

from the second bridge. It

dries only occasionally.

The rock is good but

dirty. The obvious central

crack (left of this prob-

lem) is unclimbed.

2

1

1. Nose Dive Wall. 6c. SB. Sit Start. The

innocuous East side of the first pinnacle is

trickier than it looks. Left hand on the arête

until the sloping finger jugs up and right are

reached. Span right and exit out over the

apex of the wall.

2. The Leaning Wall. 5. SB. The leaning

West wall is climbed to a juggy exit. Very

pleasant.

A cursory glance down the slope

will reveal a lot of small walls and

overhangs. Sadly those that are in

the trees tend to be very lichenous

and damp. The diligent explorer

may find a gem though…

The next block is at the same level

at the first pinnacle and about

40m further West. Identified by

the masonary abutments and rail-

way ties. This is the Bondage Bloc.

(It’s all tied up ;-))

3. Sunrise Wall. 6a+. SB. Standing Start.

Climb the centre of the wall trending right

at the top via an obvious hold.

4. The Gimp’s Worst Error. 6b+ SB. Sit Start

at the base of the overhung arête. Use an

undercut to reach up and over the beer

pump to the top.

Steve Blake

The Gimp’s Worst Error

Steve Blake collection

The Matterhorn… ...Lost Rocks The Open Project Wall… … Lost Rocks

9 10

5

6

Dan Varian on

Star Power 8b+

Mark Savage Photography

5. The right arête. Standing Start 6a. SB.

6. Wall and Rib. 6a.+ SB. Standing Start. Pull up the left side of the wall until the top edge is reached . Follow this to

its apex and pull over.

The Matterhorn is 20m below

and slightly left of the Bond-

age Block

7

A further 50m left of the Matterhorn at the same level as the Bondage

Block is the barrel shaped Open Project Wall. The right hand edge has

one problem. There are however two very hard, short

sit starts to be done on the barrel wall. Both are open

projects….

7. The Mandolin. 6c. SB. Sit Start . Pull up the right

edge of the wall on painful holds to a heathery exit.

Martin Waugh

Open Project.

Steve Blake Collection.

The Chopping Block… ...Lost Rocks The Liposuction Rock… ...Lost Rocks

11 12

10 11

The Chopping Block

Another 30m left of the Open Project Block are two

more boulders supported by some fine masonry. Only

one problem has been established on the left hand of

the two

8. Ape Index . 7a+ SB. Sit Start. Start on the

left and span right to clamp the block. Compress and

heel hook up to a left exit

12

Bob Smith

The Dawn

Steve Blake Collection

The Liposuction Rock

This is above the Chopping Block. Lots of fun to be had here! With several sit starts and a long lip traverse with variations.

9. Alec’s Pull. 6b. AB. Sit Start. Pull onto and up the slab. (The short and long lip traverses 11 and 12, start in the

same place. 6c and 7a respectively)

10. Left Slab. 6b+. SB. Sit Start. Use the obvious ripples to pull onto the slab.

11. The Short Lip Traverse. 6c. SB. Start as for 9 follow the lip left to the exit shown.

12. The Long Lip Traverse. 7a. MW. Start as for 9, but follow the lip to it’s extreme end.

13. Martin’s Roof. 7a+. MW. Sit Start on the holds at the back of the roof. Pull out to a small fingerhold on the lip. Pull

this and finish direct.

14. Steve’s Alternative. 7a+? SB. Sit Start as for 13. But span rightwards to the horizontal spike. .

8 Steve Blake

Ape Index

Steve Blake Collection

13 14

9

9 10

10

11 12

Martin Waugh

Martin’s Roof 7a+

Photo: Alec Burns

Alec Burns

The Long Lip Traverse 7a

Photo: Steve Blake

The Thing… ...Lost Rocks The Far Block… ...Lost Rocks

13 14

‘The Thing’ is between the Chopping Block and

Liposuction Rock.

14. The Thing. 6b+ SB.

Unusual. Sit Start in the hole, pull up the leaning

wall to finish directly up the centre.

The Far Block

The last of the large rocks

on the ridge has two

problems on it.

15 . The Lone Wolf.

6c+. SB. Sit Start the

scooped wall, once

reached palm up the up-

per edge.

16. Peter Puller. 6a+. SB.

Sit Start. The wall to the

right via the ramp/rail.

The last problem (currently) is on a block

below the Far Block.

No. 17. 6a Standing Start. Pull up to and

onto the rib.

19

Bob Smith

Dawn

Bob Smith Collection

15 16

17