The Jumpsuit (1)

Yves Saint Laurent Diane von Furstenberg Barbara Bui Marc Jacobs Behnaz SarafpourThe jumpsuit is enjoying a fashion renaissance, becoming a key look on runways in myriad styles and fabrics.Straddling a fine line between functional and fashionable, the jumpsuit emerged in various guises throughout the20th century. Utility styles were worn with pride during WWII as women entered the blue-collar workforce; slinkyversions later became an emblem of the 1970s Studio 54 scene. Jumpsuits continue to evolve, and theirpopularity for F/W 10 and S/S 11 has gained momentum, with a major presence in Pre-Fall and F/W 11collections.Yves Saint Laurent, 1970s Paola Frani, S/S 11 Jean Patou, 1970s Paris streets, F/W 10Wear-it-to-work tailored jumpsuits emerged in the 70s as part of the trouser revolution, empowering the growingranks of career women. Championed by Yves Saint Laurent, tailored jumpsuits have returned as practical andchic forms of power dressing. Where 70s styling paired these one-piece suits with ribbed turtleneck sweaters anddramatic headwear, today!s simple yet crisp styles are accented by contrasting belts and statement jewelry.Ballantyne, S/S 11 Maison Martin Margiela, Pre-Fall 11 Amelia EarhartVeronica Lake in So Proudly We Hail, 1943Historically the uniform of pilots, mechanics, and soldiers, utility jumpsuits became vitalfor the workingwomen ofWWII, who took over factory jobs traditionally held by men. Fashion muse Amelia Earhart wore utility suits for herflights throughout the 1930s, inspiring designers who later emulated her confident look. The Earhart fixationcontinues today with chic variations of her iconic suit in designer collections. Draping techniques lend softnessand feminine appeal, while simple styles are stripped of superfluous pockets and bulky zippers for a sleek look.Carly Simon, 1980sIceland Airwaves, 2010 Karen Walker, S/S 11 Cynthia Steffe, S/S 11Vogue 1979Claire McCardell, 1940sRompers, a beach staple in the 1940s and 50s, have become a key silhouette for Juniors in recent seasons.Introduced in the 40s by pioneer of American sportswear, designer Claire McCardell, rompers became activewearin the 70s before becoming casual, warm-weather apparel in the 80s. In a number of collections for S/S 11, theitem is key for trans-seasonalJunior looks. Pairing rompers with tights in the off-season offers a fresh alternativeto skirts and dresses.1940sFremont Apparel, 2008 Acne, F/W 11 Behnaz Sarafpour, S/S 11London Fashion Week, F/W11early 70sAnother star of functional WWII apparel, bib overalls were later appropriated by 70s designers in coquettishstyles, slimmer cuts and new fabrics. What was once a functional garment becomes an edgy fashion statement inF/W 11 via luxe materials like leather and gabardine. High-waisted styles are true to period 40s and 70s versions,while loose and low-waisted versions recall1990s silhouettes.Louis Vuitton, S/S 11Halston and models, 1977United Colors of Benetton, 2010 Maria Grachvogel, F/W 11Draped, long and languid jumpsuits ruled S/S 11 runways, evoking the 1970s disco heyday. Inextricably linked tofather of American minimalist sportswear Roy Halston Frowick, these sensuous 70s takes on 1930s beachpajamas proved a massive success with club-going socialites and celebrities. Today, designers are channeling a70s spirit via a multitude of fluid jumpsuit styles, favoring bright colors for sophisticated evening looks and neutralpalettes for dressy day looks.Berry Berenson in Halston, 1971 Amanda Wakeley, S/S 11 Halston, 1979 Missoni, 1990sWith its alluring bare-shouldered closure, the halter-neck jumpsuit is a favorite style for S/S 11 summer-friendlycotton styles and seductive evening versions. Credited with introducing halter necks in the 1930s, Frenchcouturier Madeleine Vionnet incorporated the flattering cut and closure in her sumptuous evening gowns. Halternecklines were a signature of swimwear and resort apparel from the 30s to 50s, and were later adopted byHalston as an elegant yet modern cut for his famous jumpsuits. The halter neckline is key for S/S 11 andbeyond.Grace Jones in Alaa, early 80sBianca Jagger in Halston, late 70s Diane von Furstenberg, S/S 11 AF by AF Vandervorst, S/S 11Halston, F/W 11Grace Jones, early 80sHoods emerged on S/S 11 runways as fresh design details for jumpsuit silhouettes. A popular element in the late60s and 70s, hoods were added as designers like Yves Saint Laurent looked to traditional Middle Eastern dressfor inspiration. Halston added hoods to his flowing silk jersey dresses, while Tunisian-born Azzedine Alaa madeit a signature of his oeuvre, creating various hooded knit dresses in the 80s. Today!s designers are extendinghoods directly from the neckline or incorporating generous cowls, which can be worn down and draped or bepulled over the head for a moodier aesthetic.Biba, early 70s Biba, 1970s Rio de Janeiro streets, FW 11 Biba by House of Fraser, S/S 11The boutique that defined the 60s and 70s, Biba, along with its statement jumpsuits, is the latest beloved Britishlabel to undergo a revival (by U.K. retailer House of Fraser). Re-launched in 2010 without the involvement of theoriginal Biba, Barbara Hulanicki, the collection is currently available in 34 stores and online. With an ad campaignfronted by current It girl Daisy Lowe and a rich history and archive to pull from, Biba by House of Fraser ispoised for success. A home collection and bridal range willbe added this year.Halston and models, 1978 Halston, F/W 11 Cheryl Tiegs in Halston , 1976Re-launched in 2008, Halston is available at two different price points: the runway collection by London designerMarios Schwab, and a diffusion line, Halston Heritage, with actress Sarah Jessica Parker as Creative Director.While critics have accused the Halston revival of being a mere stroll through the archives, time willtell if thisTamara Mellon-helmed re-launch has legs. What is certain is that the industry is in the midst of a Halstonmoment, with his iconic, fluid minimalist style influencing fashion today.Celia Birtwell sketches, 1970s Ossie Clark, F/W 09 Ossie Clark, F/W 09 Ossie Clark, 1970sThe revival of swinging London-era label Ossie Clark, a contemporary of Biba, launched in 2008 with S/S andF/W 09 runway collections under the direction of the Israeli designer Avshalom Gur; however, the line closed dueto market conditions. Bridging the 60s and 70s with long, languid dresses and jumpsuits, embellished withfantastical prints, Clark!s style defined an era. While it remains to be seen what exactly willhappen to the brand,the DNA is there for a successful re-launch, and the timing seems right for the late Ossie Clark's haute-bohostyle. Int the meantime, Clark's legacy continues to inspire designers.Oscar de la Renta, 2011 Late 60s Kate Moss for Topshop, F/W 09 Rudi Gernreich, late 60sVintage Inspired S/S 11 > Halter Style | Bread & Butter: Juniors Apparel > Aviation Nation | Brazil Fashion WeekStreets > J for Jumpsuit | S/S 12 Runway Roadmap: Desert Bloom > Jump In | S/S 12 Runway Roadmap: DiscoExotica > One and Only | CPH Tradeshow F/W 11 > 70s de Luxe | Trend Tracker: Disco Inferno