Planting Bulbs in Fall by Donna Aufdenberg, MU Ext. Horticulture Specialist In this issue: Planting Bulbs in Fall 1, 2 October Gardening Calendar 3 Fall is a Great Time to Control Weeds 3 2015 Missouri Master Gardener Conference 4, 5 Morning Glory 5 Fall Mushrooms 6 Garden Quote... 6 Upcoming Events 7 Editor’s Corner 8 A monthly gardening publication of the University of Missouri Extension -- Southeast and East Central Regions October 2015 The Garden Spade bulb, the bigger and/or the bigger the flower. Keep in mind that bargain bulbs are NO bargain. You get what you pay for. Bulbs are available usually starting in September but don’t need to be planted until the ground gets cooler in late October and November when it is below 60 degrees. This is a challenge for most since many people are impatient or do not want to be out in the cold digging holes in the ground. If you need to store the bulbs for a number of weeks, keep them at 50- 65 degrees F in a cool, dry place. Do not store them in paper or plastic bags. Keep them in an open tray or basket. (Also, out of sight is out of mind...keep them where you can be reminded of them frequently!) When preparing to plant, remember that good drainage is essential for spring flowering bulbs. If your soil is mostly clay or sand, you might mix in organic material such as compost, peat University of Missouri, Lincoln University, U.S. Department of Agriculture & Local University Extension Councils Cooperating equal opportunity/ADA institutions Fall is a great time to plant spring flowering bulbs! Nothing is better than to see bright beautiful colors first thing in spring after the dreary days of winter. The first big step in planting bulbs is deciding which ones you would like to grow. Some of the more commonly planted spring flowering bulbs include tulips, crocus, hyacinths and daffodils. There are more specialty bulbs you may consider. These include alliums, anemone, scilla, snow drops, grape hyacinth and Dutch iris. Buying bulbs can be the easy part. Gardeners can purchase them locally or through catalogs. When purchasing bulbs locally, check their firmness. They should not be soft. Buying through catalogs provides the best selection of many varieties. Buy early to get the best selections available. Also, consider the bulb size. The size is directly related to the size and number of flowers they will produce. Generally, the bigger the A. Narcissus ‘After All’, B. Crocus ‘Pickwick’, and C. grape hyacinth. Photos courtesy of Missouri Botanical Garden A B C
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Plant ing Bulbs in Fa l l
b y D o n n a A u f d e n b e r g , M U E x t . H o r t i c u l t u r e S p e c i a l i s t
In this issue:
Planting Bulbs in
Fall
1, 2
October
Gardening
Calendar
3
Fall is a Great
Time to Control
Weeds
3
2015 Missouri
Master Gardener
Conference
4, 5
Morning Glory 5
Fall Mushrooms 6
Garden Quote... 6
Upcoming Events 7
Editor’s Corner 8
A monthly gardening publication of the University of Missouri Extension -- Southeast and East Central Regions
October 2015
The Garden Spade
bulb, the bigger and/or the bigger the
flower. Keep in mind that bargain
bulbs are NO bargain. You get what
you pay for.
Bulbs are available usually
starting in September but
don’t need to be planted
until the ground gets
cooler in late October
and November when it is
below 60 degrees. This
is a challenge for most
since many people are
impatient or do not want
to be out in the cold
digging holes in the
ground.
If you need to store the
bulbs for a number of
weeks, keep them at 50-
65 degrees F in a cool,
dry place. Do not store
them in paper or plastic
bags. Keep them in an
open tray or basket.
(Also, out of sight is out
of mind...keep them
where you can be
reminded of them frequently!)
When preparing to plant, remember
that good drainage is essential for
spring flowering bulbs. If your soil is
mostly clay or sand, you might mix in
organic material such as compost, peat
University of Missouri, Lincoln
University, U.S. Department of
Agriculture & Local University
Extension Councils Cooperating
equal opportunity/ADA
institutions
Fall is a great time to plant spring
flowering bulbs! Nothing is better
than to see bright beautiful colors first
thing in spring after the dreary days of
winter.
The first big step in
planting bulbs is deciding
which ones you would
like to grow. Some of
the more commonly
planted spring flowering
bulbs include tulips,
crocus, hyacinths and
daffodils. There are
more specialty bulbs you
may consider. These
include alliums, anemone,
scilla, snow drops, grape
hyacinth and Dutch iris.
Buying bulbs can be the
easy part. Gardeners
can purchase them
locally or through
catalogs. When
purchasing bulbs locally,
check their firmness.
They should not be soft.
Buying through catalogs
provides the best selection of many
varieties. Buy early to get the best
selections available. Also, consider the
bulb size. The size is directly related
to the size and number of flowers they
will produce. Generally, the bigger the
A. Narcissus ‘After All’, B. Crocus
‘Pickwick’, and C. grape hyacinth.
Photos courtesy of Missouri
Botanical Garden
A
B
C
The Garden Spade Page 2
Secondar y Stor y Head l ine
Secondar y Stor y Head l ine
moss, leaves, or grass clippings to help improve the
soil conditions. Mixing 2-3 inches of organic matter
10 to 12 inches deep can help the soil
tremendously. The soil pH should be around 6.0-
7.0. Soil test now to see if any fertilizers or
amendments are needed.
Most spring flowering bulbs like full
sun when they are blooming but
some will tolerate partial shade.
Planting bulbs in the fall allows the
roots to establish and the bulbs to
meet a chilling requirement that
they need to be able to bloom
(bulbs are not pre-chilled unless it
is noted on the tag or in the
catalog).
Plant small-sized bulbs (1 to 2 inches tall) 4 or 5
inches deep and a little deeper in sandy soils. Space
1-2 inches apart. For larger bulbs (bulbs over 2
inches in height), plant 6 to 8 inches deep and space
them 3 to 6 inches apart. Add 1 tablespoon of
complete bulb fertilizer per sq. foot of root area.
Cover with half of the remaining soil and then
water. Then cover with the last remaining soil and
water again. It is important not to forget to water
for a final time after being planted to get all the air
pockets out.
When planting bulbs, just remember these rules of
thumb. The pointed end goes up. Planting depth is
the distance from the bottom of the bulb to the
soil surface. The bigger the bulb, the more room it
needs.
If you are planting many bulbs at a time, consider
excavating the planting area, place bulbs in desired
pattern and then backfilling. Doing this instead of
digging individual holes will save on time and muscle
strain! No one needs tennis elbow!
Once planted, mulch can be done after the ground
has become cold enough to freeze. Mulching
Plant ing Bulbs in Fa l l
b y D o n n a A u f d e n b e r g , M U E x t e n s i o n H o r t i c u l t u r e S p e c i a l i s t
before this can lead to bulbs emerging too soon
and dieback.
After the flowers bloom next spring, many
gardeners may have the tendency to want to
remove dead flowers and foliage. If you are using
them as annuals, then that is a fine
method. If you want them to come
back the following year, then you
need to cut back the dead blooms
and let the foliage die naturally.
The foliage needs time to recharge
the energy of the bulb for next
year’s bloom. If you desire to hide
the foliage, you can over-plant with
summer annuals.
What happens if you forget the
bulbs and discover them in January? Go ahead and
plant them. Most bulbs need anywhere from 4 to
12 weeks of cold. Worst case scenario is there will
be no blooms but the foliage will come up. In most
cases, the late planted bulbs will however bloom
the following year.
Tips for the Bulb Gardener
Photograph your spring garden to know
where your bulbs need to be planted in fall.
Plant bulbs in clusters to make bold, spring
statement.
Read labels. If you buy in bulk, make sure to
pick up a tag. All bulbs have different heights
and flowering times.
Mix bulbs into your landscape or perennial
beds. Most gardeners tend to isolate bulbs
from the rest of the garden flowers.
Mass planting of bulbs.
October Garden ing Ca lendar
B y D o n n a A u f d e n b e r g , M U H o r t i c u l t u r e S p e c i a l i s t
Page 3 The Garden Spade
Fall is a Great
Time to Control
Weeds!
Newly germinated
winter annual
weeds are easy to
pull or hoe.
Controlling henbit,
deadnettle and
chickweed now
while they are small
can save back-
breaking pulling in
spring when they
have taken over.
Hard to control
Creeping Charlie,
Dandelions, White
Clover, and Thistles
are preparing for
winter. They are
moving food and
energy into the
roots. Herbicides
with systemic action
move in the same
manner into the
roots for an
effective kill.
Finally, spend some
time doing general
fall clean-up.
Remove debris and
anything with a seed
head! Once cleaned
up, get any bare soil
covered! Mulching
helps to prevent
weeds!
Ornamentals
Buy flowering bulbs now for good selection but do not plant until the ground
has cooled.
Continue watering shrubs and trees if soils are
dry and no rain has occurred.
Transplant trees and shrubs once they have
dropped their leaves.
Trees may be fertilized at the end of this month.
Apply up to and just beyond the drip line.
Fertilizing is best done according to a soil test.
Be sure to clean up around your perennial flowers with diseased leaves. If
left on the ground, leaves and stems can harbor diseases and provide
convenient places for pests to spend the winter.
Your trees and shrubs have begun to harden for the upcoming cold weather.
To encourage this, pull mulch away from shrubs and trees.
Lawns
Grass seeding should be finished by the end of October.
Continue mowing lawns until growth stops.
Keep leaves raked off lawns to prevent smothering grass.
Now is a good time to apply lime if soil tests indicate the need.
Fall is the time to control weeds in the lawn such as chickweed, white
clover, dandelion, wild onion and plantain.
Vegetables
Clean up garden debris after frost such as tomato plants, squash vines, or
pepper plants that might have had disease foliage.
The average frost date for Central and Southeast Missouri is October 15-20.
Plant radishes, sets for greens, lettuce and spinach for late harvest if winter is
mild enough.
Harvest crops such as tomatoes, peppers, eggplant, melon, and sweet
potatoes before frost or cover with blankets to protect them from light
frost.
Harvest mature, green tomatoes before frost and ripen indoors. Individually
wrap fruits in newspaper to keep them for several weeks.
Fruits
Look for ripened persimmons after the first frost has occurred.
Place wire guards around trunks of young fruit trees for protection against
mice and rabbits.
Miscellaneous
Autumn is a good time to add manure, compost or leaf mold to garden soils
to increase organic matter content.
Consider starting a lasagna garden with repeated green and brown layers.
Fall color season begins. By mid-October, we should be in peak fall color.
The Garden Spade Page 4
Secondar y Stor y Head l ine
Secondar y Stor y Head l ine
This was my fifth year to attend the Missouri
Master Gardener Conference and I have always
enjoyed the tours, education, and the meeting and
learning from other Master Gardeners. The
Audrain County and Heart of Missouri Master
Gardeners held a wonderful conference this year in
Columbia, MO. Susan Pfoertner and I arrived
Friday afternoon at the Stoney Creek Inn. We
registered, sifted through their free seed basket,
and perused the many books that were for sale.
Friday evening we toured The Hidden Gardens on
the Mizzou campus. We visited a rain garden, a
wall garden, a children’s garden, and a few more.
At each garden, we received a history of the garden
from a founder or caretaker and a description of
many of the plantings.
It was very educational
and a lot of fun. As
the tours finished,
Master Gardeners and
their spouses got
together on campus
for some conversation and cheese and crackers.
Round tables on various subjects were also hosted.
Saturday is always my favorite day of all the
conferences I have attended. I love looking at
other private and public gardens, meeting the
gardeners and asking questions. I
always have to take a picture of
something I want to try in my
garden. If you have never
attended a conference, I
encourage you to go for at least a
Saturday. I took the all day tour
in Audrain County. Marjorie
Motley’s private garden in
Centralia was our first stop. Marjorie is one of
those people you just enjoy being around. She is
so full of energy and has such an uplifting
personality. Her garden has been declared a
wildlife sanctuary. She has planted over 40 trees
2015 Missour i Master Gardener Conference
b y J e s s i c a G r i f f i n , M a d i s o n C o u n t y M a s t e r G a r d e n e r
and 100 shrubs, and I loved her garden because I
like gardens a little wild! Marjorie also maintains
the Centralia Historical Society Museum, which is
located right by Chance Gardens. If you go to the
Museum, ask Marjorie to see her garden!
Chance Gardens was built in 1936 by Mr. Albert
Bishop Chance and designed by Mrs. Maude
Dawson Taylor. Chance Gardens is Boone
County’s oldest garden open to the public. Its key
features include a rock grotto
that I loved! It also has a
meandering brook, a beautiful
stone arch and a wishing well.
Across the street is the rose
garden that boasts 400+
varieties of Hybrid Tea and
Floribunda Roses. This is a
garden to see!
Our next stop was in Mexico, MO at Darlene’s Bed
& Breakfast and More. This is a beautiful 1895
Victorian home with a special garden. Darlene
made us a special lunch and walked and answered
questions from us afterward. Her large garden,
more than 3 acres, features many arbors, a gazebo,
a beautiful fountain, cold frames, garden sheds and
lots of plantings!!! I loved her planting of asters
surrounded by sedum! She had many types of
roses, hydrangeas and viburnums. This is a garden
of love and Darlene’s passion for it shines through.
The last stop on my tour was Callaway Fields
Nursery. We all know how excited Master
Gardeners are at nurseries! Callaway Fields has a
variety of trees, shrubs, tropicals, succulents, and
bedding plants. Several of the area Master
Gardeners said it was their favorite nursery.
Although many Master Gardeners had carts for
their purchases at the nursery, Susan had to remind
me that we were traveling in a small car!
Saturday night is the banquet. This year’s guest
speaker was Dr. Leo Sharashkin who edited
The Garden Spade Page 5
Secondar y Stor y Head l ine
Secondar y Stor y Head l ine
Keeping Bees with a Smile, Growing Fruit with a
Smile, and Growing Vegetables with a Smile. Dr.
Sharashkin was an entertaining speaker whose
message was that we can learn
from Russia where during his
studies over half of the food was
provided by backyard gardens and
people continue to barter for
what they themselves do not
grow. His speech also touched on
the limiting laws of Russia, and the
generosity of the people who do
not live by money alone. His speech was filled with
humour, personal tales of living in Russia, quotes
from his children, and examples of how Russians
use their produce to improve theirs and other’s
lives. Dr. Sharashkin also keeps bees naturally in
horizontal hives and his website is
www.horizontalhive.com.
2015 Missour i Master Gardener Conference
b y J e s s i c a G r i f f i n , M a d i s o n C o u n t y M a s t e r G a r d e n e r
Sunday is the day for classes. Some of the classes
offered at this year’s conference included
Gardening Apps, Growing Fruits in the Home
Garden, Critter Control,
Amending for Healthy Soil, Season
Extenders, and Vegetable
Growing. Two Landscape Design
Classes were offered for advanced
training, and the folks who took
both of those classes really
enjoyed them.
Next year the conference will be
held in Kansas City during the weekend September
16-18. It will be my sixth consecutive conference.
I love seeing people I only get to see once a year,
sharing ideas, gaining knowledge, and just having a
really good time. Hopefully I will see you there
next year!
It has been my experience that you either love or
hate morning glories. As a small kid (I was small
enough that I pronounced them mornin glows) it
was my job to pull seedlings from the garden. So
while they have pretty flowers, morning glories are
on my weed list. Many people will disagree with
me and they are a favorite in many gardens.
Morning glory is an annual that is very easy to grow
from seed. The seed is readily available and comes
in several color variations. Full sun and moist, well-
drained soils are favored. They can trail over the
ground but need to be contained on a trellis or
they will climb other plants. In this case they can
definitely be a weed because they will smother
other plants. As far as weedy side of morning
glories goes, they are easy to pull, till, or hoe when
they are small seedlings. After that they become a
pain to control because they twine around anything
Morn ing Glor y
b y K a t i e K a m m l e r , M U E x t e n s i o n H o r t i c u l t u r e S p e c i a l i s t
they touch. Mulching is a great control method.
Or you can enjoy the fact that the weed has pretty
Disclaimer: No special endorsement of mentioned products is intended, nor is criticism implied of similar
products not mentioned.
University of Missouri, Lincoln University, U.S. Department of Agriculture & Local University Extension Councils Cooperating equal opportunity/ADA institutions