The basic process flow.docx

Apparel Internship (Gokaldas Exports Ltd.) 2013

Gokaldas Exports Ltd., Bangalore, Karnataka

Apparel Internship (Gokaldas Exports Ltd.)

(Study and Project done in the unit: Triangle Apparels-VI)

8/6/2013

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APPAREL PRODUCTION REPORT

Gokaldas Exports Ltd., Bangalore, Karnataka

(Study and Project done in the unit: Triangle Apparels-VI)

PREFACE

This report is an account of hard work done and experience gained in the company having a reputed stand in the international market and policy of keeping itself updated with the changing times. The report mainly deals in the application of theoretical knowledge into a practical experience. This report attempts to present my experience in Gokaldas Exports Ltd. India’s premier export house. It gave me an opportunity to be a part of an esteemed organization and get the first hand knowledge of working of various departments under various heads. It covers the basic structure of an export house and working. It also includes various formats that are used in firms to maintain the records. Overall, this report covers the individual study of each department that a garment undergoes. As such, this report is not sufficient to pen down what I have gained from this in plant training.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

We are immensely grateful to Mr. Jhamandas Hinduja (Founder Gokaldas Exports Ltd.) for providing us an opportunity to do this momentous internship in this prestigious organization.

Secondly, we would also like to express our heartfelt gratitude to Mr. Shripad Hedge (Corporate General Manager- Quality) and Mr. Raghavendra (KPO, H.O.) for their continuous support, and encouragement and valuable guidance in doing fruitful and challenging project, which would be an unforgettable experience to us.

Back at our Institute we would like to thank our faculty members who helped us throughout the tenure of doing the entitled project, gearing us up in every phase, giving us various ideas and suggestions for collecting relevant data. A word of sincere thanks to Ms. Sweta Jain (Course Coordinator B.F.Tech-Bangalore), Mr. Mukherjee (Course Coordinator B.F. Tech.-Kolkata) and our college mentors Mr. Joseph Regy and Mr. Siddharth Ray for helping us out in the best possible ways during the period of internship.

We would also like to acknowledge National Institute of Fashion Technology which provided us various amenities to carry out our study and come up with a worthy work.

Last but not the least we would like to extend a word of thanks to our friends whose efforts can never be overlooked.

Finally, sincere thanks to all for their courteous and helping attitude.

- Akhsh Kriti

Anurag Mosan

Sohini Das

1. INTRODUCTION

1.1 Introduction

Studying theory of the procedures and operations in the garment manufacturing

industry is not enough. Being a technical field, the 14 weeks long apparel internship

helps students, gain an insight and hands on experience of the real deal happening

in a garment manufacturing unit. It helps develop an ability to link the theory learnt

before through academics with the practices undertaken at the industry. It also helps,

moulding into a real-world setting giving pupils an insight into the whole of the

process taken up at production, lending them with the choice of either analysing the

whole production system or integrating and applying their own competencies and

suggesting ways to mitigate losses undertaken, under critical situations faced by the

industry.

This report is based on the internship work done at Triangle Apparels-VI, a unit of

Gokaldas Exports Ltd. during the period of 27 May 2013 to 31 August 2013 (3

months) as part of our studies for the Bachelors degree in Fashion Technology at

NIFT Bangalore.

The main objective of the internship was to gain practical exposure to real life

situations encountered in a manufacturing unit. A mini project was also there in the

agenda.

The initial days of the internship were devoted entirely to gain an understanding of

the working of the factory and the various operations that are carried out on the shop

floor. Later on, we moved on to work upon our project collecting data for analysis

and then proceed to concluding fruitful results.

1.2 Company Profile/Corporate Information

Name of the Company Triangle Apparels-VIHead Company Gokaldas Exports Ltd. (Est.: 2004)Area 33994 sq. ft.Total Factory Strength: 1590Total machines 1026Address of Head Office Gokaldas Exports Ltd.

70, Mission Road, P.B. No. 2717, Bangalore, Karnataka - 560 027

Address of Production unit Triangle Apparels-VI,No:25/26,3rd Main,Industrial Suburb, 2nd Stage Yeshwantpur, Bangalore,India

Date of Establishment March 1,2004Technical CollaborationProduct Jackets, Pants, Shirts, Shorts, Tops, T-shirts,

Skirts etc. for Men, Women, ChildrenCapacity ---- million per year

Sampling Capacity ------ garments every monthLead Times Salesman Sample:-------- days

Bulk Production: 60-90 days( depends on order quantity)

Extract of Key Machines CAD:Gerber – USACutting:Embroidery:Fusing:Sewing: Brother –Japan, Hoffman - USAFinishing:

Main Clientele • Adidas• Abercrombie & Fitch• Puma• Decathlon• GAP• Levis• Nike• Tommy Hilfiger• VF Corporation

1.3 Background: Gokaldas Exports Ltd. (Head Office)

Gokaldas Exports Limited was a family owned business founded by the late Jhamandas H. Hinduja in 1979.

GEL, the Company was incorporated on March 1, 2004 by converting the erstwhile partnership firm Gokaldas India under Part IX of the Companies Act, 1956. Pursuant to the order of the Hon’ble High Court of Karnataka dated November 20, 2004, Gokaldas Exports Private Limited and The Unique Creations (Bangalore) Private Limited have been amalgamated with the Company, with April 1, 2004 being the appointed date. The Company is engaged in the business of design, manufacture, and sale of a wide range of garments for men, women, and children and caters to the needs of several leading international fashion brands and retailers. The principal source of revenue for the Company is from export of garments and related products.

The Company started as a business that manufactured silk scarves and stoles and later changed its business model to manufacture shirts in a 1,000 square feet rented space with 40 leg machines. The company targeted export markets- primarily The US and Europe and began to expand through partnership arrangements. As volume grew, technology was introduced for keeping records. The factory floors were transformed by introducing advanced, computer controlled machines replacing those run on leg power. The 70 or 80 manual patternmakers once a source of numerous problems had been replaced by five to six CAD systems. Huge industrial washing machines churned denim garments to give them the look of the hour stonewashed, acid washed, bleached while other garments were manually spray painted, sand blasted or laser engraved. Massive multi head embroidery machines emblazoned shirts and jackets with appliqués, badges, and embroidery.

Gokaldas was able to provide its clients with “any kind of garment right from ultra formal to ultra casual across men’s, women’s and children’s wear.” Eventually, it specialized in outerwear, like coats and jackets; active wear, like warm ups and swimsuits; bottoms, like trousers and shorts; and casual wear, including shirts, blouses and dresses.By end of 2004 Gokaldas had 43 factories with 258 production lines scattered in and around the southern Indian city of Bangalore.

It had more than 35,000 workers, which was nearly double the no. it employed in 1999-2000, and its total sales had increased at an annual compounded growth rate of 19.67% over this period. The company was valued at approximately $215 million

Founder: Jhamandas H.Hinduja

Year of Establishment: Founded in 1979

Categories: Sports Wear, Casual Wear

and exported nearly 90 percent of its production. However, to maintain its already slim margins in an increasingly competitive environment, Gokaldas needed to become more efficient. Company leaders hoped to improve profits by 10-15 percent without adding resources and Gaurav Hinduja, COO of the sportswear division and a third generation family member, became convinced that Lean would be the best means to make this happen.

• . Type of organisation

Gokaldas Exports Limited (GEL) is one of the leading apparel exporters of India serving large global retailers.

Certification It is an ISO 9001:2001 certified company, with proven manufacturing, marketing, product design and development capabilities

Public/Private The Company currently operates a 100% Export Oriented Unit, a Domestic Tariff Area Unit and a Special Economic Zone Unit. The Company is a public company domiciled in India and its shares are listed on two stock exchanges in India.

Product Portfolio Gokaldas prided itself as a one stop shop able to produce virtually any type garment required by its clients. GEL has a diversified product portfolio across various categories of garments for men, women and children.

Awards Over the years, Gokaldas had won many of the top export awards given to garment manufacturers in India including, in 2004, the coveted “Highest Exporter Award” from the Confederation of Indian Apparel Exporters. Its clients read like an A list of the world’s top apparel retailers: Nike, Gap, Old Navy, Banana Republic and Abercrombie & Fitch.

Business Integration

Gokaldas factories are fully integrated, meaning they also make labels, tags, elastics, cords, cartons and packing materials everything needed for any garment produced.

The following graph shows the product mix of past two years. There has been a shift towards the jackets and outerwear products in FY 2011-12 signifying move towards value added garments..

Category Movement

1.3.1 Group companies

Gokaldas forayed into manufacturing more categories of garments by starting more number of successful factories in and around the state of Karnataka.

,Hinduja Sports Wear I No. 73/19/5, Industrial Suburb, Yeshwanthpur, Bangalore –

560022, Karnataka - IndiaHinduja Sports Wear II No. 72/73, Industrial Suburb, Yeshwanthpur, Bangalore –

560022, Karnataka - IndiaHinduja Processing & Finishing Unit

No 2, 5th Cross, Mysore Road, Bangalore - 560026Karnataka - India

Hinduja Fashions No.76, Industrial Suburb, Yeshwanthpur, Bangalore - 560022Karnataka - India

International Clothing Company-II

Survey No.113, Hongasandra Village, Begur Hobli, (Near Bhondary Factory) 7th Mile, Bangalore - 560068Karnataka - India

International Clothing Company IV

No.12, 'A' Block, 7th Mile Near Bhandary Factory, Hosur Road Bangalore - Karnataka - India

International Clothing Company IV

, No.180/1, Yellakunte, Begur Hobli, Hosur Road Bangalore - Karnataka - India

JD Clothing Company No.9, Industrial Suburb Rajaji Nagar, Bangalore – 560010, Karnataka – India

Intex V No.4, 1st A Cross, Kamakshipalya, Magadi Road Bangalore – 560079, Karnataka - India

Intex I No.31, Magadi Road, Bangalore – 560079, Karnataka - India

Intex V No.1,#13 & 4, 1st A Cross, Kamakshipalya, Magadi Road Bangalore – 560079, Karnataka - India

Asiatic Exports No.55,56,63 & 64, BDA Main Road, Bommanahalli Bangalore – 560068, Karnataka - India

New Generation Apparels-I No.28E, Peenya, II Phase, Yeshwanthpur Bangalore , Karnataka - India

Carnival Clothing I No.35, II Main Road Shrirampuram, Bangalore – 560021, Karnataka - India

Carnival Clothing II & III Govindapuram Main Road , Bangalore – 560045, Karnataka - IndiaNo.17/A-34/A-1, Industrial Area, Yeshwanthpur Bangalore - Karnataka - India

Triangle Apparels I No. 804/75, 7th WardJayapura Road Tumkur – 572101, Karnataka - India

Triangle Apparels II No.106/5-9, Arabic College Post , Bangalore – 560045, Karnataka – India

Luckytex III No.19/A, Industrial Suburb, 3rd Main Road, II Stage, Goruguntapalya, Tumkur Road , Bangalore – 560022,

Karnataka - IndiaTriangle Apparels III No. 664, 665, 1001 & 290/A Nagavara Village, Kasaba

Hobli, Bangalore, Karnataka - IndiaTriangle Apparels V No.3117A, 5th Main, Industrial Suburb, Yeshwanthpur

Bangalore, Karnataka - IndiaThe Wearwel II Industrial Estate N.H-206, Tiptur, Bangalore, Karnataka -

IndiaWearcraft Apparels No.17/1-38/4-1, Industrial Suburb, Yeshwanthpur

Bangalore - Karnataka - IndiaGlobal Garments II No. 46/3-B, Garvebhavi Palya, 8th Mile, Hosur Road

Bangalore, Karnataka - IndiaThe Unique Creations No.44, Industrial Suburb, 3rd Main, II Stage,

Yeshwanthpur, II StageTumkur Main Road Bangalore, Karnataka – India

Atlantic Apparels I No. 46/3-B, Garvebhavi Palya, 8th Mile, Hosur RoadBangalore, Karnataka - India

Chennai SEZ Division No.6/1, II Phase, MEPZ, NH - 45, TambaramChennai (Madras), Tamil Nadu - India

Gokaldas Exports R&D I No.78, Mission Road Bangalore – 560027, Karnataka - India

Gokaldas Exports R&D II No.10, Mission Road Bangalore – 560027, Karnataka - India

Global Garments I No.17/1-38/4, Industrial Suburb, Yeshwantpur, Bangalore – 560022, Karnataka - India

Gokaldas Exports R&D IV No.39/2, II Main Road, CKC Garden, Bangalore, Karnataka - India

Venkateswara Clothing Company II

No.10, KHB, Colony Industrial Area Yelahanka Bangalore – 560064, Karnataka - India

Euro Clothing I No.122/1, Doddabidarukallu Village, Yeshwantpur Bangalore – 560077, Karnataka – India

The Intex II #26, 2nd Cross, 3rd Main Road, Industrial Suburb, Yeshwantpur, Bangalore – 560022, Karnataka - India

Wearcraft Apparels I & II No. 17/A, Industrial SuburbYeshwantpur Bangalore, Karnataka - India

Venkateswara Clothing Company

I, No.10, KHB Colony, New Satellite Town, Yelahanka Bangalore – 560064, Karnataka - India

Sri Krishna Industries No.25 & 26, 3rd Main, 2nd cross, Industrial Suburb, Yeshwantpur, Bangalore – 560022, Karnataka – India

Atlantic Apparels II Plot No.28 D & E, Belawadi Industrial Area Mysore – 570018, Karnataka – India

Triangle Apparels VI No.25 & 26, 3rd Main, 2nd cross, Industrial Suburb, Yeshwantpur, Bangalore, Karnataka - India

Dress Master Suits No.77, 3rd stage, Peenya Industrial Area Bangalore, Karnataka - India

Global Garments III Annexe, No.40/2, 2-1 & 2-3, 1st main, Industrial Suburb, Yeshwantpur, Bangalore – 560022, Karnataka – India

Gokaldas India No.21C & 21B, Survey No.34,35,36 & 37, Nallakadaranahalli, Peenya II Stage, Industrial Area, Peenya, Bangalore, Karnataka - India

Indigo Blues Plot No-2, KIADB Industrial Area, Doddaballapur, Karnataka - India

Balaji Finishing House I & II

No.60, II stage, Indl Suburb, Yeshwantpur Bangalore – 560022, Karnataka - India

Atlantic Apparels-111 Survey No. A-7/1, Nacharam, RangareddyHyderabad, Andhra Pradesh - India

Carnival Clothing Co. No.2/A-1, Chikkaveeranna Road Cross, Bannimantap Etn Mysore, Karnataka - India

Carnival clothing company-II

Benganur Village Bangarpet - KGF Road , Kolar, Karnataka - India

Euro Clothing Company II T.B.Road Srirangapatna, Mandya District , Karnataka - India

Gokaldas Exports (P) Ltd, R &D – III

# 76/1, II & III Floor, Mission Road, Kalingarao Road , Bangalore – 560027, Karnataka - India

Luckytex-III No.17/A-34/A-1, Industrial Suburb, Yeshwanthpur Bangalore – 560022, Karnataka - India

Triangle Apparels-I Site No.804/75, 7th Ward, Near Tilak Park Police Station, Jayapure Road, Tumkur, Karnataka - India

Triangle Apparels VI # 25/26, 3rd Main Road, Industrial Suburb, Yeshwanthpur, Bangalore, Karnataka - India

1.3.2 People and Work Procedures

The Head office has the following divisions:

1. CEO’s Office

2. Marketing and Merchandising Department

3. Sourcing Department

4. Research & Development Department

5. Sampling Department

6. Planning Department

7. POCC Department

8. CAD Department

9. IT Department

10.Finance Department

11. HR Department

1.3.2.1 Important People

Chairman Madanlal Hinduja

Managing Director, Finance Rajendra Hinduja

Executive Director Dinesh Hinduja

Chief Operating Officer Ashwin Hinduja

Vivek Hinduja

Gaurav Hinduja

GM Mr. Surya Narayan, G.M, Human

Resource Department

1.3.3 ORGANISATIONAL STRUCTURE OF GOKALDAS EXPORTS

1.4 Background: Triangle Apparels – VI (Production unit)

Triangle Apparels – VI was established in ----------, as a unit of GEL. It is situated in

Yeshwantpur Industrial Suburb, Bangalore. The unit has been set up to manufacture

categories of garments ranging from shirts to trousers to jackets to skirts or t-shirts.

The plant boasts of state-of-the-art machinery from Hoffman and Brother, spreaders

and cutters from Gerber. The plant has the capacity to manufacture over -----------

per year with 12 lines working. The Company currently has a total strength of nearly

1590 people and a total of about 1026 machines.

On the export front it caters to countries like Australia, Canada, Europe, Japan, Mexico, Middle East, South Africa and United States.

Threads, interlinings, buttons and other embellishments are sourced from the best

suppliers from Hong Kong for offering its customers the highest quality products.

The production line follows a progressive bundle system with an average bundle size

of around 20 pieces. There are a total of 12 sewing lines and the production happens

as a continuous flow of work-pieces in mass-production operations preparing parts

(cuff, sleeve, collar etc.) initially and then the parts are assembled together. The

product being assembled passes consecutively from operation to operation until

completed.

1.4.1 Layout of the Factory

No. of Building Factory Using 1

No. of floors 3

1. Basement Cutting department.

2. Ground Floor Administration Block, Sampling,Training Section, Creche

3. First Floor Sewing A,B,C,D,E,F

4. Second Floor Sewing G,H,I,J,K,L,MN,O

5. Third Floor Finishing

6. Terrace Worker’s Canteen

1.4.2 People and Work Procedures

1. Sampling Department

2. CAD Department

3. Fabric Store

4. Trims and Accessories Store

5. Industrial Engineering Department

6. Cutting and Fusing Department

7. Sewing Department

8. Finishing Department

9. Embroidery Department

10.Quality Department

11. Maintenance Department

12.Accounts and Finance Department

13.Human Resource & Administration Department

14.Information Technology Department

15.Training Department

1.4.2.1 Important People

General Manager (G.M), Production Mr Laxman Poojari

Factory Manager Mr. Pradeep

Production Manager. Mr. Ramkrishna

Assistant Production manager Mr. Kumar

1.4.3 Clientele

Puma

Decathlon

Adidas

Mexx

Puma

O’Neil

1.4.4 Employee Welfare Programs

Various facilities and schemes have been designed to ensure the welfare of the employees

of the factory. Some of them are:

1. Training centre

2. Health centre or medical facility

3. First aid box facility

4. Ambulance facility

5. Crèche

6. Provident fund(PF)

7. Transportation facility

1.4.5 ORGANISATIONAL STRUCTURE OF GOKALDAS EXPORTS

COO

Quality manager

Quality Incharge

Q.C.s(14)

General Manager

IED Factory manager

Sampling Incharge

Fabric Incharge

Minusing Procut Operator

Store Incharge

Assistant Store

Incharge

Cutting Incharge

Supervisors- 3

Finishing Incharge

Supervisors-3

Production

manager

Floor Incharge- 3

Supervisors- 2 per

line

Revenue Share of Gokaldas Exports Ltd.

The revenues share of Gokaldas Exports from various geographical locations in 2010-11 and 2011-12 is given below.

Key Focus Areas of Gokaldas Exports Ltd.

The company has formulated its strategies and identified key focus areas to improve performance in the current environment.

1. Top line growth – Strong focus on growing the top line by increasing share of business with existing customers and developing new customers

2. Foray into new product categories such as swim wear, work wear, sleeping bags

3. Focus on the India retail market and tap into its aggressive growth4. Target capturing share of China business in the back drop of current

challenges in China.5. Improvement in operational efficiencies through lean initiatives6. Sustained focus on financial management

.

2. WORK FLOW

The work flow of Gokaldas Exports Ltd. is a result of the planned and coordinated

effort from all the departments. Giving importance to quality and precision, checks

are performed at every stage of manufacture right from pre-production to post-

production. The various departments in the unit are:

1. Marketing and Merchandising Department

2. Sourcing Department

3. Research & Development Department

4. Sampling Department

5. Planning Department

6. POCC Department

7. CAD Department

8. Pre-Production Department

9. Fabric Store

10.Trims and Accessories Store

11.Industrial Engineering Department

12.Cutting and Fusing Department

13.Sewing Department

14.Finishing Department

15.Embroidery Department

16.Quality Department

17. Maintenance Department

18.Accounts and Finance Department

19.Human Resource & Administration Department

20.Information Technology Department

21.Training Department

All these departments are directly or indirectly related to the process of

production right from reception and conformation of order to final finishing

processes.

The process flow of confirmed orders at macro level is as below:

PILOT TRIALS

MARKETING SAMPLING DONE AND SENT FOR APPROVAL

ENQUIRY AND TECH PACK PPC WORKS OUT

THE CAPACITY

PRODUCTION PLAN

SOURCING: WORKS OUT THE MATERIAL TO BE ARRANGED AND ARRANGES IT

MATERIAL PROCUREMENT

AND ISSUE

PRODUCTION ACTIVITY: FABRIC RECEIVED, FABRIC WASHING, CUTTING, EMBROIDERY, PRINTING, SEWING, FINISHING,

MAINTENANCE SUPPORT

QUALITY CHECK AND INSPECTION

DISPATCH

ERP SUPPORT FOR MIS

HRD: PLAN AND PROVIDE HUMAN RESOURCES AND

TRAIN THEM

CUSTOMER MARKETING FOLLOWS UP WITH

CUSTOMER

The following flowcharts will explain the production work flow, starting from

the Merchandiser’s job of getting the orders till the dispatch of the finished

goods at the micro level.

MARKETING & MERCHANDISING SECTION

Merchandising team gets order

Merchants receive Tech-Pack consisting of GSS (Graded Specs Sheets) and all details of style, trims

and construction details.

Tech-Pack sent to the Sampling Dept. for development of proto.

Development sample

Changes commented Buyer

Approval

A

Patterns developed

A

Fabric consumption along with the mini marker taken from

CAD

Cost Calculation for Cut Make, Washing, Embroidery etc.

Get the sample approved and cut and make cost approved from buyer

Confirming the PO and receiving it

Developing Yellow seal

Developing Green seal

Size-set developed

Approval from the buyer for size-set

B

PPC meeting conducted

Pilot Run of 150-200 pieces done

Bulk production starts

B

Getting the TOP- top of production sample approved.

Follow up as per Ex-factory date

Sending the final shipping goods detail

Getting the inspection certificate

Goods shipped

Is order rejected?

Goods sent to the warehouse

OCR-Order Completion Report made

FABRIC AND TRIMS SOURCING SECTION

Receipt of Authorized indents

Entries of indents in the indent register

Scrutiny of indents with respect to item description, qty, urgency, stock etc

Selection of few suppliers based on nomination, past Performance, etc

New Suppliers Nominated Suppliers

Existing Suppliers

Purchase Enquiry is being sent to selected suppliers with all details

Receipt of PI’s /Quotations from suppliers

Comparison of PI’s/ quotes and sample approval

A

A

Negotiation based on rate, quality and delivery

Finalization of vendor based on negotiation

Preparation of PO on approved supplier

PO approval from Authorized Signatory

Order placement via Fax /

phone/email/hand

Follow-up with supplier based on delivery schedule

Taking confirmation from stores on delivery

PO value <5000

Signed by HOD

PO Value above 5000-Signed by GM

phone/email/hand

Confirmation on quality approval

Follow-up for replacement

Approved goods is in warded by stores

Rejected goods will be sent back for replacement

Second rejection

Selection of another Vendor

Stores

Trims & Accessories

Inspection

Lab Testing

Storage

Fabric

Inspection

Shade Variation Shrinkage Inspection

for Defects

Storage

WAREHOUSE

Receive PO sheet from H.O.

FABRIC STORAGE SECTION

Enter data to procut

Fabric inward from godown

Bale opening

Shrinkage bit collecting from Central warehouse

GSM test (only for wool)

Folding and relaxing of fabric

Pattern grouping based on Shrinkage report

Shrinkage test

A

Making of marker plan

Issue lay sheet to cutting section

Issue fabric to cutting section

Fabric consumption report

Send balance fabric to RTG

Segregation according to grouping

A

TRIMS STORAGE SECTION

Receive Trims from Supplier

Check Quantity against Invoice

Segregate Trims Stylewise

Inspect trims

Receive Cut Plans

Receive MRS authorized by supervisor

Issue trims to stores as per MRS

Receipt of ODS from the merchant

Open Capacity available

Review options, discuss with head of operations

Block Capacity in Fastreact

Advance order confirmation to merchants & PCD to

execution

PRODUCTION, PLANNING AND CONTROL SECTION

If no

Inform Marketing/Merchandising

Check with IED for SAM, no. of machines and feasibility

Circulation of Production PlanMonitor plans for variances

Rework deliveries/PCD based on actuals, advice merchants

Review capacities based on actuals/ work on options to feed the lines

R & D SECTION

Receive Specifications or Sample Garment from buyer

Analyze feasibility if it is a new style

Develop Initial Samples if it is a new style

Develop the patterns as per the specifications

Develop the various samples as per buyer requirements and send for approval

Approved?

Conduct Pre-Production Meeting

Yes

No

Laying of fabric

Receive Fabric

Receive marker and Lay plan

Place marker plan on lay

Q.C. check (Length and Quantity)

CUTTING SECTION

Cutting

Q.C. check with patterns

Bundling

Numbering

A

Panel Inspection

Numbering

Panel InspectionRecutting Recutting

Embroidery Segregation Fusing

Sorting and Bundling

Supermarket

Kanban Request

Issue to batch

A

SEWING SECTION

Receive cut parts from cutting section and load

Layout setting

Receive trims from store and Inspect as per trim card-randomly

Batch setting

A

Check cut panels with pattern

Study tech pack and sample for stitching

Stitching

Receive PO packet from and sealer sample from merchant

Issue for stitching in Assembly line

Front and back panel inspecting

Not OK

Alteration

OK

Match Bundle

Assembly checking

100%

A

Alteration

Not OK

Match Bundle

OK

Send to Finishing Department

Final Inspection

Alteration

Not OK

OK

Receive goods for washing

Check for shades

Check hand feel

Forwarded to Kaja/Bartack section

Trimming

Inside checking

Iron

Final Checking

Presentation Checking

Auditing for finishing Q/A

Quality assured garment goes to packing

FINISHING SECTION

A

Shade checking (approved shades only)

Packing Approval from merchant

Packing in poly bag

Packing pieces in carton box

Putting the sticker, barcode and countrywise duties

Carton box Storage

Tagging (Sizewise, colorwise, countrywise)

A

The merchandising department is the nerve centre of any garment industry.

Merchandising acts as a bridge between the buyer and the production house. The

merchant understands all the demands required by the buyer and conveys all the

information to his organization at various levels. He acts as a cross link between all

the departments to communicate, monitor, distribute, gathers the essential

information to achieve the goal of producing the entity using the optimum processes

and man-power and at the optimum cost. Merchandiser acts as the very important

person to the organization for getting the new orders by completing the previous or

the obtained order in the right manner just according to the buyer specifications and

therefore manages the company. Merchants’ job starts from understanding the tech-

pack, developing the sample (development sample), getting approved, inculcating

the changes in the product pointed by the buyer, procuring the essentials for the

order and finally executing the order till the date of shipment.

The ----------- heads the department. The functions of the department are:

To get orders from buyer

Generation of orders depending upon production capacity

To get sample approved from buyer

Purchase co-ordination

Coordinate the working of different departments in the organization

Generation of BOM

Delivery of shipment

Preparation of Time & Action calendar

To make sure that the delivery of goods happen within buyer’s requirement.

All the communications between the buyer and factory happens through the

merchandiser.

MARKETING & MERCHANDISING SECTION

The detailed process flow for the merchandising department:

Tech pack given by buyer:

The buyer gives tech pack to the merchant, which contains all the details about

fabric, trims, wash, thread, stitch, measurements, stitch count, style specification, fit

details etc.

Development sample:

Development sample is a sample which is made up of original fabric and wash

specifications as per the buyer’s tech pack. Total of 4 samples are made out of

which 2 samples are sent to buyer’s office and 2 samples are kept in the industry

itself. The buyer gives comment on the same and it becomes white seal sample with

the callouts. Side by side BOM (Bill of material) is also prepared by the purchasing

department.

Fit sample:

After the approval of white seal sample, fit sample is made in 3 sizes. For every size,

3 samples are made. 2 samples are sent to the buyer for approval and one is kept in

the industry. Buyer checks the sample for measurement and gives comment if any.

The merchandiser again has to send back the sample with changes if any to get

approval from the buyer. This becomes the black seal sample.

Salesman sample:

After getting approval of black seal sample, the next step is the production of

salesman sample. It is also called as ad sample or buyer’s sample. This is only for

the wash approval from the buyer.

Photo shoot sample:

This sample is made with all the finishing trims to be used on the garment like post

embellishments, embroidery, printing for all the sizes. This is also called as mock

shop sample. Grading can also be approved in this sample if required.

Pre-production meeting:

After getting approval for photo shoot sample, pp meeting is held which discusses

the comments on black seal sample.

Garment construction report:

After PP meeting, GCR is prepared which is a data sheet that includes all the

parameters in a garment to consider. This is made for the durability of garment.

Garment testing report:

Various tests are conducted on the garment to check for its shrinkage and shade

requirements. The report is also called as Taper report and is handed over to PPC

and cutting.

PP sample:

This sample consists of all actual trims, and final specification. This is also called a

green seal sample, which means that green light is given and the company can

proceed with the actual production.

Actual production:

First a size set is prepared in the batch only. Inspectors from buyer’s office come and

inspect the garment with the merchandisers. After size set, pilot run of 100-150pcs is

carried out in one sewing line itself. After pilot run, bulk production starts. The top

bulk production sample is again sent to the buyer by the merchandiser who is called

black seal/red seal sample.

The sourcing department deals with purchase of fabric and trims required for bulk

production of approved orders in the factories.

Hierarchy

General Manager

Manager

Team leaders

Team leaders

Team leaders

Manager

Team leaders

Team leaders

Team leaders

Merchandisers - 48

FABRIC AND TRIMS SOURCING SECTION

Sourcing department is the department which gets all the indents from the various

departments which are approved by the GM operations or marketing heads. Based

on these indents the purchase department makes purchases.

There can be two types of indents:

Non garment indents

Garment related requisitions

The non garment indents are related to the non raw material indents like needles,

hardware, etc. The garment related indents comprise of whatever related to

garments. The approval of GM operations and marketing heads is enough for small

items but for capital items which involve capital purchase, the approval need to be

taken from the CEO. These comprise of all machineries of high value and high price

electrical works. But for general consumer items indents need to be raised by stores

itself. The indents are raised for fabric and trims, etc for which the buying is done

mainly from the buyer nominated supplier. In this case the factory can’t earn enough

profit so it tries to do parallel development of raw material so that later on the order

can be manufactured in-house. Or else discounts can be taken from the buyer

nominated supplier also which the buyer does not know.

The things which are kept in mind while placing an order are quality, delivery and

price.

Indents received

Enquiry generated (quantity etc)

Sent enquiry to market (to certain people only when garment)

Gets quotation

Check for price, delivery schedules, etc.

Choose among the different

Make a call to whom to place the order

Selection of Suppliers

The selection of suppliers for the purchase of all required goods is done on several

bases which are as follows:

based on price

based on quality

based on delivery schedule

based on past experience

production /supply capacity

Often the suppliers are nominated by the buyer himself.

Measures taken while confirming the order

For an order to be finalized for a certain supplier various criteria are need to be

fulfilled which are as follows:

comparison of rates between different vendors

ensure for best negotiated rates

taking sample approval from merchandising dept before confirming order if

required

Preparing PO and approval from Authorized Signatory.

Headed by Mr.----------- (G.M.), this department starts its work when theMerchandiser feeds the initial information like purchase order, quantity, and size wise breakup into the WFX software. It is responsible for getting the fabric and trims from the nominated buyers.

Main responsibilities of this department include: Determination of the requirements. Decision on the process parameters.

Based on various inputs like fabric requirement, shades etc. It then decides upon the following: Supplier on the basis of delivery and quality. Lead time Price Quality constraints Product constraints Fabric Sourcing Representative then discusses the above mentioned points in

the order clarity meeting held after the order is approved

The stores department has been segregated into two sections:

1. Trims and accessories

2. Fabric

The main functions being carried out in the stores department cater to inspection and

storage. Both inspection and storage are being same for trims as well as fabric.

The amount of fabric that can be stored in the department : -------------- meters

Area of the store: -----------------ft.

Issue of Fabric and Trims

As soon as the fabric is received from the supplier a GRN (Goods receipt Note) is

prepared. The GRN consists of the following details of the fabric

Fabric content

Declared order quantity

Received order quantity

Lot no.

Other details include:

Order reference no.

PO no.

Style No.

Invoice No.

Supplier Name and address

Garment name

Buyer

Material delivery date

The GRN (Goods Receipt Note) is prepared for every lot of the fabric received from

the suppliers. Thus for a particular order there may be 3-4 GRNs depending on the

STORE SECTION

number of lots in which the fabric for that style was received by the stores

department.

A similar GRN is prepared for the received trims and other accessories also. The

person responsible for the generation of the GRNs is the Store manager or the Store

In-charge.

Storage:

The material, both fabric and trims are stored temporarily till the inspection for

the same is completed.

The storage has been divided into the following sections for temporary

storage:

1. Fabric to be issued to the stores

2. Trims to be issued to the stores

3. Fabric to be inspected

4. Trims to be inspected

5. Inspected Fabric to be issued to cutting room

6. Inspected Trims to be issued to cutting room

The permanent storage area has been allotted to:

1. Rejected fabric

2. Rejected trims

3. Surplus fabric

4. Surplus trims

Inspection

Fabric Inspection:

The following steps are followed for the fabric inspection process:

Step 1: In the first step, the percentage of inspection is decided on the basis

of the quantity of the material issued for a particular order. The percentage of

inspection is decided based on the below mentioned range

Fabric received in meters Amount to be inspected

0-500 100 %

500 – 1000 50 %

1000 –2500 20 %

> 2500 10 %

Step 2: The 4-point system is followed for fabric inspection. Under this system

the points are allotted on the basis of length of the defect.

0-3”: 1 pt

3-6”: 2 pt

6-9”: 3 pt

Above 9”: 4 pt

Step 3: Selection of Inspection

The type of inspection is selected from one of the following four:

1. Dye lot inspection

2. Batch inspection

3. Width inspection

4. Shade inspection

The selection of the inspection is done based on the buyer’s requirement

Step 4: The average shipment points are calculated based on the following

formula:

a) For linear meter

b)

For square meter

The rule for the average shipment points for a lot is:

Average shipment pts.

= (Total pts. * 100)/

(Inspected meters of

fabric* cuttable width)

Avg. shipment pts. = (Total pts. * 100)/ Inspected meters of fabric

Average shipment pts. per 100 square yard > 30 : Rejection of the fabric lot

Average shipment pts. per 100 square yard < 30 : Acceptance of the fabric lot

Types of fabric defects:

The main types of fabric defects for which the rolls are inspected belong to the

below mentioned categories:

Yarn defects – slubs, floats, foreign matter etc.

Contraction defects – bowing, skewing etc

Dyeing defects – streaks, reed marks etc

Finishing defects – stains, fold marks etc

Fabric Inspection Machines:

Shrinkage test:

Fabric swatches are taken from each roll of a lot and tested for shrinkage

The size of the fabric swatches cut for shrinkage test is 50cm *50 cm

An area of 35cm*35cm is marked on the cut piece using the shrinkage test

scale with a yellow marker

The swatches are sent for washing to washing units nominated by the buyer

After wash, the yellow markings on the swatches are measured again both in

warp and weft direction

The percentage difference is measured and the garment marker dimensions

are added id the difference is negative and subtracted if the difference is

positive

???????

The differences (if any) are termed as warp and weft shrinkage for warp and

weft directions respectively.

Negative shrinkage value represents reduction in the dimensions after wash

while positive shrinkage value represents increase in the dimensions after

wash

Shade Variation Test

Stores recieve fabric from the mills

Cuts a piece of fabric of 10cm x 10 cm from each roll along

the grain line for the preparation of Shade card

Each cut piece is checked in the color matching

cabinet under different lights.

The same shade fabric is segregated and put into same families. These

families are named as A, B and so on

Family swatches are sent to the merchandiser and it is approved by him and he selects the target fabric having the appropriate hand/ feel / color. If it is

rejected then the rolls are sent back to the fabricator.

Rolls are named and segregated according to

shade family code. These rolls also have their

shrinkage and inspection report attached to them and sent to the cutting

department.

Copy of approved Shade Card is sent to

cutting, production, packaging and quality check departments.

Cuts a piece of fabric of 10cm of whole width from

one roll for the preparation of Center Selvedge Variation

Card

Cuts a piece of fabric of 10cm of whole width from

one roll for the preparation of Center Selvedge Variation

Card

The Fabric is cut into 4 equal parts and named

as A, B, C and D

The parts of the fabric are sewn together

The parts are sewn together in the order C,

A, D, B

CSV is sent to the merchandiser and he approves it and if it is rejected then the rolls are sent back to the

fabricator.

Trims Inspection:

Trims received by the centralized trims are subjected to inspection prior to for

bulk production.

The AQL of 2.5 is the acceptance criteria.

All trims and accessories are checked against the specific actions originally

intended by the merchandiser for the purchase in this regard. The trim card with

sample representation of the requirement is handed overlong and authentication

by the merchandiser.

On the receipts of the specific trims and accessories, a trim card is made with a

sample from the bulk and forwarded to the merchandiser. On receipt of the

approval confirming of the trim card, the inspection would connect to quantity and

qualitative checks.

Trims and their Critical Points for Inspection:

Item Trims

description

Check Points

1. Label (main,

size, content)

a. Written Content

b. Colour Shades

c. Size of label

d. Seam Margin (in case of folding Label)

e. Clarity of written Content

f. Tearing Strength

2. Button (main,

collar,

decorative)

a. Button Ligne size

b. Colour Shades

c. Print/emboss clarity

d. Colour fastness/ rubbing fastness

e. Button impact strength

f. Baking Test

g. Heat test

3. Hand Tags a. Written Content

b. Colour Shades

c. Clarity of written Content

d. Punch Position

e. Colour Fastness

4. Velcro a. Width

b. Hook

c. Shade Evenness

d. Sewing Margin

5. Zippers a. Length (4mm lock to lock)

b. Zipper Tape Shade

c. Embossing or written content

d. Zipper Run

e. Slider locking if auto lock

6. Threads a. Thread as approved

b. Shade Consistency across tubes

c. Yarn types

d. Ply count

7. Elastic/ Draw

cord

a. Stretch ability (elasticity %)

b. Width/ width variation/ thickness

c. Elastic- wavy/flat

d. Washed/ Unwashed

e. Secure edges/ yarn winding

8. Poly bags a. Thickness

b. Print matter content

c. Print matter rub off

d. Poly bag size

e. Poly bag self adhesiveness/ flap size

f. Perforation if any

First stage: 100% inspection

Second stage: AQL 1.0 but in case of rejections Final Audit Inspection is done at

AQL 2.5

On completion of the inspection the inspector completes the relevant reports of

the inspected lot and would stamp quality assurance “Seal” identifying the lot as

confirming for consumption for bulk production.

Documents maintained:

Documents received by stores

Receipt Challan

Delivery Challan

Shade Card by the fabricator

Test Reports of both fabric and trims by the vendor and the labs.

Documents generated by stores

Goods Receipt Note

Centre To Selvedge Report

Shade Card

Inspection Report

Shrinkage Report

Challans For Different Departments

Different areas within the Store:

Quarantine

A quarantine area must be designated in the warehouse for all goods received. Items cannot go into the main warehouse area until they have been inspected, applicable to fabrics and accessories.

Goods Accepted

After passing inspection goods can be stored in the main warehouse. There must be a storage system in place which allows items to be easily found i.e. each storage location has a reference name/number and items are allocated specific storage location or items are stored by PO.

Goods Rejected

Every warehouse must have a dedicated area clearly marked ‘REJECTED’ for goods which fail the inspection process. Each roll of fabric or box of accessories must be clearly labelled ‘REJECTED’ and stored in the rejected area.

Accessories Inspection

All accessories must be inspected to an approved STD. The merchandising team at the T1 must provide a signed accessories card to the warehouse at style and colour level to ensure this inspection can take place. Inspection must include:

Logo design Colour Design/shape Sharp points (safety) Length/width where applicable (i.e. zips, fasteners)

Metal Detection (MD) –accessories must be tested through a metal detector as part of the inspection process.

It is required that the metal buttons pass the metal detection of 1.2 mm 100% MD for all metal accessories (including hangtags made from recycled

materials) and all type of embroidered accessories such as badges etc. Minimum 10% MD from each accessories' lot should be done for all the rest

accessories' type

Accessory inspections must follow AQL 1.5 in an area with adequate D65 lighting (minimum lux 750)

SAMPLE SIZE (BASED ON AQL1.5 NORMAL, LEVEL I;

SOURCE: MIL STANDARD 105E)

Load Size Sample Size Accept Reject1-280 8 0 1

281-1200 32 1 21201-3200 50 2 3

3201-10000 80 3 410001-35000 125 5 6

Label Wash Test

Purpose

Once labels are received in the quarantine area they should be tested per lot to determine dimensional or appearance changes of the label after home laundry.

Principle

After washing, all wording that printed on sewn label reduced and subtracted, and heat transfer could peel off and damaged. This test intended to give overall view condition of printed wording on sewn label and appearance of Heat Transfer label.

Test description

Testing condition follow 7.01 Garment Machine Wash Procedure

Care Label

Specimen preparation:

Sewn Label-cut piece fabric with 8cm length and width 4cm and sewn it with label

Wash and dry the specimen 5 times by following the care instruction given on the label: 8cm X 4cm (Lx W)

COMPUTER AIDED DESIGN SECTION SECTION

The personnel structure of the department is as follows:

As the customer approaches the company with his requirements the company goes up for the proto sample or shows the customer samples from GE collection.

As per the Proto sample developed prices are decided upon.

If the buyer is convinced with the samples made, he places an order with the company and provides the merchant with the Pattern Indent.

The pattern indent is released by the merchant and it goes to the technician who understands the pattern details and then conducts a DFM-design for manufacturing meeting engaging the technician himself, the merchandiser, the IE personnel, and the Brand QA.

The CAD department is divided into three sections and uses ACCUMARK for the following 3 sections:

1. Pattern making section: Making the patterns using specification sheets and then checking their fit on virtual dummies.

2. Grading section: Generally medium size patterns are developed and they are graded up to the required number of sizes up and down.

3. Marker making section: Markers are made keeping in mind the following factors:

Mode of spreading

Length of the fabric available Horizontal matching Vertical matching Shrinkage along warp and weft

After the patterns are done a texo is prepared. The texo demonstrates clearly the fabric consumption per garment.

Based on the patterns made and fabric consumption markers are plotted and the R&D section takes over.

PRODUCTION, PLANNING & CONTROL SECTION

The main aim of PPC department is to plan a production schedule taking into

account all the factors so as to dispatch the orders on date. PPC is mainly

concerned with:

Trims collection details

Fabric collection details

Line plan

Execution of the plan

PPC acts as a bridge between merchandising and production. The Purchase Order

packet (P.O. packet) is given to PPC by merchandising which contains information

about projected orders. P.O. packet contains information like style, delivery date,

SAM of garments, embroidery or printing details, washing details, fabric sort number,

consumption in house, trims etc. The PPC blocks the order. After the order

confirmation, planning is done. Care is taken while planning that similar style should

be loaded on same line to increase the productivity. At the time of order confirmation,

merchants also give production file having styling details, specification sheet, bill of

material (BOM) to PPC to communicate buyer’s requirement to production. Order

document print (ODP) contains all the minute details of the garment. Purchase

requisition (PR), purchase order (P.O.) and Performa Invoice (PI) are also received

along with sealer’s sample (buyer’s approval sample) and patterns.

After the receipt of all the above mentioned things from the merchandising

department, size set is prepared. Care is taken that PCD (planned cut date) meets

all the requirements of trims, fabric etc. Bulk production starts from size-set sample.

Continuous monitoring of the plan is the main objective of PPC.

Before starting the production of a new style, Pre-production meeting (PP) takes

place, where factory manger, industrial engineer, quality control manger, production

manager and concerned supervisors take part. The production capacity is analyzed

for the style.

Thus the main aim of PPC is:

To ensure smooth production

On time delivery of goods

Meeting buyer’s quality

Reducing operational costs

Responsibility: Planning of orders in terms of capacity and delivery recovered.This

department deals with execution of orders. It makes a good co-ordination among all

departments.

Execution of orders takes place using a software known as FAST REACT.

Fast React is a kind of planning software that decides how many lines are presently

running in factory, what are their availability, what can be done to increase line

efficiency. How lines are to be allocated. 10 lines are there. It helps in on tracking.

Orders are put on planning board.

PPC department hold Pre production meeting where fabric relaxation time is decided

before cutting, what should be the maximum number of plies per lay, how many

notches are required.

Production planning follows a critical path that is a time and action calendar. Critical

path involves 7 activities.

1) Fabric sourcing

2) Fabric flow date that is: flow to cutting room, checking, inspection, finishing.

3) Sewing and trims date

4) Packing and Finishing material

5) Garment approval deadline

6) Preproduction Sample that is followed by pilot run (Fit-1 size, Size set)

7) Post Production activity(done by production execution team using planning

software –Fast React)

Order booking is done by the marketing team .This is followed by enquiry from

merchandizing and PPC department till the orders are delivered.These orders are

placed by the PPC department on the planning board.

A brief explanation of the working of PPC department is as follows:

Step 1: Receipt of order file

The order file is the file which contains the order detail, style detail, shade size

detail, fabric detail, material group wise detail and assortment detail. After the

receipt of order sheet, the pre-production department ensures that all the

material and trim requirements are in-house before the actual production

could start.

Step 2: Yellow seal sample

It is the first sample that is made as per the buyer’s specification and sends

the same for approval from

Step 3: Green seal sample

It is the final sample approved by the buyer.

Step 4: Indent (Taper report)

This is a report that contains information about the fabric rolls required for a

particular style mentioned in the taper sheet. For each fabric roll, information

is provided regarding the meters contained, the shade, lengthwise and width-

wise shrinkage percentage and remarks (ok or high shrinkage). The pre-

production department has to ensure that the taper report is received to

respective departments on time.

Step 5: Size-set pattern

Pre-production department plans the date by which the size-set pattern

should be ready for size set cut and sewing.

Step 6: Embroidery or printing

Any embroidery or printing that needs to be done as per the buyer’s

specification on the size-set cut sample should be achieved by a planned

date. This department ensures that the required machinery is in place for

embroidery or printing to happen.

Step 7: Size-set sample sew

This department makes sure that the sampling department is producing size-

set sample with the approval from head office as on planned date or not.

Step 8: Size set to wash

The size-set is sent to head office by the sampling department for washes as

per requirement and pre-production department ensures that all this happens

by the planned date.

Step 9: Size-set wash complete

After approval from buyer, the size set arrives back to the factory. This should

happen at planned date as per pre-production department.

Step 10: Pre-production meeting (PPM)

This is the most important step in planning department. All the department

heads sit together and discuss about the production requirements and make a

plan as to how the whole production should be carried out by synchronizing

the working of each department.

Step 11: Pilot cutting

This is a production cutting of small number of garments, generally 500

garments before bulk production to check for feasibility of the style and check

for any problems during actual production. Any problem that occurs during

pilot cut is considered and solved accordingly. Pre-production department

ensures that pilot cutting is achieved within specified time.

Step 12: Embroidery or Printing

Any embroidery or printing required in the particular style is carried out within

planned time.

Step 13: Pilot sewing

The cut pilot pieces are sewn on or before the planned date as per the line

plan given to sewing department by pre-production department.

Step 14: Bulk pattern

The approval from head unit, bulk spreading and cutting is carried out on or

before planned date.

Step 15: Embroidery or printing

Embroidery or printing similar to pilot run is carried out for bulk pieces. Pre-

production department ensures that this happens as by planned date.

Step 16: Bulk sewing

The pre-production department is responsible for feeding different lines as per

the line plan and achieving the target on or before the scheduled date.

Step 17: Bulk pattern dispatch

It is the responsibility of pre-production department to dispatch the sewn

garments to for final finishing and packaging as by planned date.

Heads: Production manager || Factory manager

This department takes care of the production planning and control (PPC)

activities and also coordinates with the IE activities as well as any R&D

activities of the factory. It controls the planning and gives guidance from fabric

to shipment. The main function of PPC is to create the deadlines for each

process and coordinate with various departments. The PPC department receives

the required information from the Product Development team such as:

Style no./item description

Fabric type

Projected quantity

Based on the R & D report the construction feasibility and cost analysis of the

style is done by the PPC department. The PPC dept. prepares a monthly

capacity budget for each production unit.

The PPC department is to coordinate with all the departments including IE and

Quality.

PO pocket received Info. loaded into Fastreact Allotment overtakes

Industrial engineering department is the life blood of any industry and garment

industry is no exception. The industrial engineering department is responsible for all

the factory operations. The involvement of this department starts right from the

receipt of the order from the buyer. As soon as the customer confirms the order, the

merchandising department forwards the order details to the industrial engineering

department for further processing. The CM cost (cut make cost) is prepared based

on the details provided. This includes the following activities:

Operational breakdown

determination of SAM (standard allowed minutes) for each individual

operation

calculation of cost per machine hour

Standard and achievable efficiencies, etc

The activities of the IE department continue once the order is confirmed.

The Approved Production Sample (APS) is forwarded to the department. The

sequences of the processes are studied in detail, and the any suggestions for

changes are made.

On the receipt of the confirmed order, a full-fledged operation bulletin is prepared.

This, along with all the necessary attachments, guidelines and files, the documents

are forwarded to the production department.

The IE personnel has to constantly visit the line while the batch is set, during new

style loading and also to monitor the day to day activities. They have to ensure that

the process is running smoothly and closely monitors the flow till the first product

INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING SECTION

comes out of the line. After that, periodic checks are done for proper line balancing

and for productivity improvements. They also monitor the manpower allotment.

Based on the data collected from the line, reports are generated and the

performance is evaluated against the actual target and the results are sent to the

management. The industrial engineering department also undertakes projects for

reducing waste, increasing efficiencies, work place engineering, ergonomics

improvement etc. Some R&D activities are also done to develop tailored solutions for

the prevailing problems.

Head manufacturing (GM) heads the industrial engineering department. There are

three industrial engineers reporting to the GM. Industrial engineers takes care of

R&D, pre production and production basement.

The IE department\ plays one of the key roles in the garment industry. The main

objective is to:

Analyze the sample/technical pack Line arrangement

The line arrangement and production capacity is achieved by work study, time study and allowances. Thus SMV is improved. The work study is measured by method study and work measurement. Time study is used for all the planning and control systems.

Production target= 480 mins/ standard time

Operation bulletin

It is a format prepared by IE department, which gives information about type of machines, attachments, total no. of operations, time taken for each operation, total time taken to make a garment and efficiency of style.

Batch setting

Batch setting is the process of machines with suitable folders, needle and with other setting to carry out operation in sequence according to operation bulletin into various section. It is to set the operator to achieve desired standards and various reference samples are made to make sure that desired quality can be achieved.

Hierarchy in the Department:

SAM Standard allowed minutes

The SAM is calculated by the formula:

SAM= single sewing cycle+20% personal fatigue+15% m/c delay+2%contingency allowance

Method of costing

When Tech pack comes to merchant, he fixes the same and sends it to IE department. IED does the feasibility analysis called as Cut and Make charges, which means whether a particular order can be accomplished in the factory or not. The following process is followed in IE department.

Activities in IE department

The SMV is based on GSD where SMV=100% GSD (general sewing data)

SAM is at certain percentage of SMV added.

This value is given to merchant, who keeps information about cost/SAM (factory specific). The merchandiser calculates the garment cost, which is:

General Manager

IE Head

Assistant Assistant

Production Manager

GARMENT COST=COST PER SAM*SAM OF THE GARMENT

Once the order is confirmed, thread chart is prepared, which calculates the thread consumption for a garment. After the thread count, sealer’s sample is prepared. The IE department gets PO Packet and line design from the Head Office. From the Line design sent by the H.O. IED makes Operation Bulletin, where the slowest operation decided the output.

The personnel structure of the department is as follows:

Headed by Mr. -------------, this department is involved in making the samples for fetching orders.The main function of the R&D department in-housed in the Head Office arena

is the Product development. This starts with the feasibility analysis and

progresses through iterative sample developments. Thereafter the sampling

department in the factory takes over and carries out all the pre-production

activities.

The R&D section operators are highly skilled and are capable of tailoring a

complete garment. On receipt of the customer request, the basic patterns are

developed by the CAD department and the Development stage samples are

made by the operators in accordance with the buyer’s requirements.

The samples made are examined completely by the merchandising team and

then forwarded to the buyer for their comments. If the buyer is satisfied with the

samples and costs he places an order with the company.

R&D SECTION

Sometimes the buyer supplies the specification sheet, a sample garment, or

both, based on which the patterns are developed.

Categories of samples made in the R&D section:

Marketing promotion samples:May not have any specific request from anyone but would be made from inputs from various sources like:

Information about latest trends, inventions, in the field fashion, fabrics, accessories etc

Latest in tools and plants and production Styling according to season, gender, age group, category etc Past experiences from buyer’s selling patterns and market response etc. Can be selected for production with modification Mainly to inspire them directing them to a new trend.

Development samples Proto Sample Fit Sample Salesman Sample Size-set Samples Pre-production Samples Ad /Photo samples etc Sealer samples TOP samples

The development samples are made according to the precise information given by the buyers. There are chances that these samples get selected according to market feasibility or there are chances too that these samples are dropped and the order cancelled.The material and trims required for the development of samples is procured from the merchant who himself gets it from the buyer.The quantities of fabric received from the buyer for development of samples are as under:

Jacket 2.5-3 meters/ sampleTrousers 2 meters/ sampleShorts 1.5-2 meters/ sampleHalf sleeved shirt 1.5 meters/ sampleFull Sleeved shirt 2 meters/ sample

The nap and face up for the fabric is specified by the buyer. The buyer also specifies the number of garment samples he requires for the development stage under the desired category of samples. It generally counts to 7 garment samples per style.

Then the production related garment samples are done in the factory itself

before which a PP meeting is held to decide upon the requisites.

Headed by Mr. Bhojraj Poojaraj, the main function of the sampling department

in-housed in the factory is to prepare the Salesman Samples.

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carry out all the pre-production activities which may culminate in the batch

production activity, once the order is received. The pre-production meeting is

conducted at the factory which is chosen for mass production of that style and

SAMPLING SECTION

Production Manager

Supervisor

Q.A.

Checker

Workers - 40

Checker

Supervisor

?????? where do the Pre-production activities happen??

involves all the concerned personnel like IE department people, Quality

personnel, line supervisors etc. They are apprised about the various aspects of

production like the styling, style number, construction details, labelling details

etc.

The pre-production department will be in constant touch with the merchandising

department, which generates the orders. The buyer supplies the specification

sheet, a sample garment, or both, based on which the patterns are developed.

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Hierarchy

CUTTING SECTION

Cutting Incharge

Cutting Supervisor

Minusing

Pattern master Marker Cutters,

Recutter Spreader

Loading Helper

Numbering, Sorting, Fusing

operators

Bundling helpers

Procut operator

Loading Helper

QC

Pre-works

Spreading, Cutting and Bundling are present on the same floor.

Headed by Mr. Ranganath S. the cutting department plans its daily cutting according to the kanban request by the Sewing section and provides cut parts to 12 sewing batches.

Main Details:

The cutting department has 2 automatic spreaders and on automatic cutter It has 3 Straight knives and 2 band knives. It provides around 40,000 cut pieces per day on an average to the sewing

section.

Machines:

Machine Number Details

Band Knife 2

Edge cutters 2

Straight Knife 2

Fusing machine 2

Prepare Layout

Verify Patterns and Samples

Mock Layout done as discussed in PPM

Numbering stickers decided depending on the type of fabric

Manpower and Equipments:

Process Equipment used No. of equipment Manpower

SpreadingSpreading table 8

Edge cutting machine

Relaying Pins

Cutting

Cutting table 8 (same as spreading) 16

Band knife 2 13

Straight knife 2 16

Recutting Recutting table 2 1

Numbering Ticketing machine 8 10

Fusing Fusing machine 2

Sorting/bundling Table 11

Quality control 9

Checkers 10

Production writers 3

Pro-man data entry Computer 1 1

Front placket tailors Kansai DNCS 1 5

Helpers 5

8.4 Ticketing and Bundling:

The ticketing of the cut parts is started immediately after the first lay of the fabric is

spread. Ticketing is done mainly at 3 stages:

Style: T30989Part: SleeveCut No. : 5Size/shrinkage: S 3% warp 5% weftQty/ Color: 210100White

1. Before cutting starts

2. Between cutting and bundling

3. At the time of bundling

I. As soon as the lay is spread and marker is made on the top ply of the lay,

tickets are put on each part of the marker. This sticker/ticket lists the following

information about a cut part:-

a) Style no.

b) Part- sleeve/collar/cuff etc.

c) Cut no.

d) Size/Shrinkage( shrinkage is mentioned for both warp and weft)

e) Quantity/ Color (quantity denotes the no. of parts cut out from a particular lay).

* Note: Shade is nowhere mentioned on the sticker put at this stage

A typical sticker looks like this:

II. After cutting, the cut parts are numbered on the basis of size as well as cut no.

the numbering is done according to cut no. starting from the smallest size cut in

that cut number.

A numbering book is maintained to keep a record of the cut pieces.

The format of the numbering book is as under:

Date Cut no. XS S M L XL XXL 3XL S. No. Qty Total

1 75 1-75 75 75

75 76-150 75 150

75 151-225 75 225

2 89 226-314 89 314

89 315-403 89 403

89 404-492 89 492

Thus all cut parts of ‘S’ size of the 1st cut no. are numbered 1-75 followed by

‘M’ and ‘L’ as 76-150 and 151-225 respectively.

The numbering ticket is put using a ticketing machine and it lists the no. of

pieces as well as its size. A typical numbering ticket looks like this

III. A third type of sticker/ticket is put just before bundling starts. In this tickets are

prepared by referring the cut plans for the shades of the pieces.

The shades are mentioned on these bundle tickets for avoiding shade

variation problems at the time of sewing.

The bundle ticket consists of the following details

a) Bundle no.

b) Ticket range

c) Bundle size ( or no. of pieces in the bundle)

d) Work order No.

e) Size

f) Part

g) Shade

h) Style No.

i) Color

M- 7107

Bundle No. Ticket Range Bundle Size

Work Order No.Size Part Shade

Style No.ColorCut No.

j) Cut No.

At Integra, the bundle size for each cut part for all orders has been pre-fixed to 5.

Thus the ticket range has a fixed length of 5 numbers. (E.g.: 201-205)

There are two types of Bundles at this stage:

Front: Containing parts of Front and Sleeve

Back: Containing parts of Back, Collar and Cuff

A typical bundle ticket looks like this

Example:

After the bundle tickets have been put manually on each bundle, then the bundles

are put in a Kanban Bin.

There are separate Kanban Bins for Front and Back Parts.

Each Kanban bin holds 12 bundles.

1985 9379-9388 10

WP- 46 XL Sleeve A

Each Kanban bin has a tag attached to it.

The bundle numbers are inserted into this tag.

The Kanban bins are placed in the cutting supermarket and transferred to the

sewing department when the need arises.

EMBROIDERY SECTION

Hierarchy

Headed by Mr. Nagaraj, this department is responsible for machine embroidery on cut panels and readymade garments as well.

There are 3 computerized machines of make --------------- with twenty heads each.

There is one machine operator and framer per machine.

Thread for embroidery comes from ---------------. Thread with ticket number ------------ is used for embroidery here. This is in case silk, rayon or Lurex thread. If the thread used is of polyester then the ticket number used is of 50 ticket number and 3 plies.

The paper used for embroidery is white non woven 40 GSM interlining.

Stitches per inch - --------- stitches.

Capacity – -------- pieces per day

Stitches per day – ---------------- stitches

Marks on the fabric for the embroidery start and end are done by the cutting section.

This is a 16 hours working department.

1 shift – 8 hours

2 shift – 8 hours overtime

Embroidery Incharge

Framer-3

Operators-3

Checkers-6

Supervisor

Framer-3

Operators-3

Checkers-6

At a time --------- needles are issued at a time from the maintenance time.

The needle size used for embroidery varies from ------------- size.

Usually ----------- needles break every day.

Hierarchy

Pre-works

SEWING SECTION

Factory manager

Quality manager

Roving Checker/Q.C. 1 per 2 lines

Water spider - 1 per line

Production manager

Assistant production manager

Floor incharges -3

Supervisors (2 per line)

Operators-55 per line

Helpers- 5 per line

Iron operator - 3 per line

End table checker- 1 per

line

Checkers (3 per line

Needle issuer- 1 per 5 batches

Mock Layout prepared

The sewing process is fully following the Parts and assembly System. There are 12 sewing lines with around 45-50 machines each. The target production is around 300-400 garments per line per shift, but the average production is only around 250 garments per line per shift. Each line comprises of basic SNLS, DNLS, FOA, SNCS, Overlock, Bartack machines. All these machines not only reduce the SAM of a garment drastically but also increase productivity & consistency in quality. The operator skill required becomes very low and hence operator costs decrease as well. The main objective of this department is to produce garments confirming to buyer’s standards in garment construction. There are checkers & iron tables at certain distinctive places in the line which cater to quality requirements of the buyer.

Red Tag punched

Line set using the punched layout

Critical operations, check points and loading points decided

(Factory modifies line design)

Pre production meeting note made

Line set using the punched layout

Distributed in different departments

Target/ delivery date given

Headed by the Production manager, Mr. Ramakrishna the sewing line is changed over whenever a new style comes in, the information like operation breakdown, critical operations, line design, target are put up on display. The garment sample and trim details are also put up on display for reference.

Line supervisors decide upon the operator allocation so as to balance the sewing process and give directions to the operators about their respective jobs.

Inline checking and auditing take place as pre-decided. The in line checkers and QCs ensure that the quality coming out of each operation is as per the quality specification.

Machine types & operations they are used for:

SEWING M/C Make / Model No. Make / Model No.of M/C

SNLS Ordinary

SNLS With UBT

DNLS

Ordinary

SNCS

DNCS

Feed Off the

Arm

3TH. O/L

5TH. O/L

Flat Lock

Button hole

FINISHING SECTION

Hierarchy

Headed by Mr. Kantharaj, the finishing section is responsible for the finishing of garments according to the style requirement. The finishing is done by the Measurement Checkers, Ironers, Trimming operators etc.

The special finishes needed to be given to the garments are given at the washing stage by means of washing chemicals such as pinching effects on denim garments.

The finishing processes applied are thread trimming, Ironing, tag attachment, folding, and final packing.

The finishing Department is divided into 2 parts.1 part undertakes finishing for TA-6 factory while another part is for Wearwell factory of the same group.

Factory manage

r

Finishing manager

Finishing incharge

Kaja/ Bartack incharge

Supervisor

Iron section

Incharge

Supervisor

Trimming Section Incharge

Supervisor

Final checking

Supervisor

Measurement

checking

Presentation Incharge

Q.C. - 3

Packing Incharge

Packing Incharge

Supervisor

Wrapper

Quality manager

Quality incharge

H.O. Q.A.

The lines are loaded on the basis of priority and urgency. TA-6 finishing department has a capacity of 15 iron tables, 7 button

attachment machines, 2 machines for rework, 11 machines for label attachment and 7 wrapping machines.

There is a needle detector present as well to check for the metal contaminated garments.

Hierarchy:

GM(Quality)Vineeth

Sr. QAMSatishchandra

Manager-CSC teamManjunath B.P.

QA Head Roshan

HO QA Dhaneesh

HO QA Karunakar

QC InchargeChandru

A- SiddheshB-SiddheshC-ShridharD-SrinivasE-RaviF-ShivkumarG-BhaskarH-AchuthI-SureshJ-Sathish

QC InchargeYogesh

K-ArunL-PrakashM-UmeshN-PrakashO-GaneshP-GunaShekharQ-KavithaR-SathishS-HussainT/U-Lokesh Babu

QUALITY SECTION

TA-VI has an excellent in-place system for quality output. Quality audit tools like AQL

1.5, 2.5, 4 are followed for garment auditing, and 4 point system is followed for fabric

checking.

TA-VI also relies on a external well equipped testing lab for the FPT (Fabric

Processing Test) & GPT (Garment Processing Test). All fabrics and garments

undergo testing before mass production. Quality checks and audits are done in the

given sequence.

Store:

100 % Fabric Checking once the fabric is received (4 point system).

100 % Trims Checking once the trims is received (0.1 – 0.5 AQL).

Cutting :

Quality check for the marker

100% In-line checking while spreading.

100% Checking of cut pieces before they are issued to sewing floor.

Quality audit of cut pieces at AQL 1.5 before dispatch to numbering.

100% quality check for Fusing

100% Checking of pieces after embroidery.

Sewing Lines

Quality audit of embroidery pieces at AQL 2.5 before dispatch to

bundling.

100% Checking of Garment parts at in-line check points.

100% Checking of Garments parts at end-line.

Quality audit of garments at AQL 2.5 before dispatch to finishing.

100% Checking of Garments after washing.

Quality audit of washed garments at AQL 4.0.

Finishing and Packaging :

100% Checking of Garments in-line while finishing

100% Initial inspection

100% Final inspection

100% Measurement audit

100% Random Audit

Final Packing audit

Random Checking of garments before shipment (AQL 4.0 is followed

for packing)

In addition to quality checking and auditing Integra believes in quality assurance. To achieve good quality and keep up with their quality assurance policies Integra provides all its workers with guidelines and instructions to keep in mind while working to produce a desired quality level

1. Quality Assurance (Sewing):

On the sewing floor, both inline and end- table inspection is done for 100% of the

garments.

Rejection rate per batch

Inline inspection: 0% instead- Recutting and rework

End-table inspection: 2%

Alteration rate (for both): 5%

Manpower: 5 per batch

4 (inline-parts)

1 (End-line-whole garment)

2. Inline Inspection:

Inline inspection is done part wise (for shirt)

Collar

Check points:

Collar point- sharp, equal

Collar width (as per pattern)

Mitering / balancing of fabric

Width and length wise (depending on buyer’s requirements) line balancing

for checks, plaids

Fusing

SPI, width (as per buyer’s requirements)

Esprit: 9

EDC: 10

Levi’s: 14 (Workers, Dockers & Signature)

Triburg: 8

For O/L: SPI- 16 to 18 standard for all buyers

Neck band

Check points:

Neck band peck- equal

Width (as per pattern)

Fusing

Sleeve

Check points:

Grain line to be followed for diamond placket

Mitering for diamond placket

Raw edges on the inner side

Left and right sleeve placket match (length and width wise)- equal and

even

Right front placket

Check points:

Front (Kaja) placket- width bigger than button placket(1/2 cm variation

always)

Both plackets should follow feature line

Mitering (length and width wise)

Kansai placket- major problems

Skipped stitch

Uneven width of placket

Broken stitches

Back

Check points:

Sides alignment

Inner and top yoke should be aligned equally on all sides (a/h + top +

neck)

Top stitch on top yoke- straight

3. End-line or End-table Inspection:

End-line inspection is done for Assembly operations

Check points

Shoulder attaching: equal margin

Label attaching: placing

Collar attaching: 6mm or ¼” inch margin, no raw edges

Size label + loop label attaching: placement

Sleeve attaching

Notches of sleeve and body on front and back to be matched

Shoulder to sleeve: 100% line matching

Sleeve margin: 5/8” (seam allowance)

Body margin: ¼” (seam allowance)

Side seam attaching: O/L and Feed off the arm

Bottom hem: major problems

Roping

Twisting

Uneven width

Broken stitches

Raw edges

The process of End-table checking also checks for the parts in the following

sequence along with their major check points

1. Labels

Size

Sticker cross check

Main label placement on the body (measurements also)

Size label: 6 cm from wearer’s left side

Wash care label: 4” or 10 cm above bottom hem (attached always on left

side of wearer

Front placket batch label(especially for Esprit men’s): 3 cm above bottom

hem

2. Collar

Collar point balancing

Pick shape

Collar centre

Mitering of collar with neck band

3. Front

Length and width of both fronts matched

Mitering for front plackets

Kaja placket: left (men’s), right (women’s)

Width of kaja placket: ¼”= 2.5 cm to 3 cm

Button placket: 1”= 2 cm

4. Sleeve

Both sleeve measurements balancing

Mitering: shoulder to sleeve

Shoulder drop on both sides: equal

Sleeve placket: length and width wise

Cuffs: pairing should be proper with mitering

5. Armhole

Neat finishing

No puckering or pleats

6. Side seam

Feed off the arm operation in which sleeve gets wrinkling and puckering

Sleeve and side seam joint should be even

7. Bottom hem

Bottom hem near the fronts should be straight upto a distance of 3” on

both the fronts

This department takes care of all sorts of maintenance needs of the factory, be it machine maintenance, utility equipment maintenance, civil maintenance or even the carpentry and plumbing works.

Proper maintenance of machines is crucial for the successful running of the factory as any breakdown of machines will cause delays in work, which will lead to wastage of valuable production time. Therefore the company gives emphasis to the improvement in maintenance activities. The factory is slowly maturing to implement TPM and has successfully implemented autonomous maintenance in fusing department where the employees are empowered and trained to carry out scheduled maintenance activities on their own. They are currently introducing the same on the sewing floor as well.

There are two types of maintenance:

Preventive maintenance Breakdown maintenance

1. Preventive maintenance

Regular routine maintenance that assists in reliable machine performance.

scheduling daily, weekly, monthly and 6 monthly checks daily maintenance: SPI, outside cleaning, oil level check 6 monthly maintenance: oil changing (if color of oil changes then also oil is

changed. A Preventive maintenance schedule as per attached list is being practiced. The preventive maintenance schedule has been prepared by referring the

Engineer’s Manual of the supplier and consultation with the Engineers of respective machine suppliers.

Preventive maintenance check list are fixed in each machine to ensure maintenance schedule.

2. Breakdown maintenance

Unanticipated maintenance activity resulting in stoppage of machine and production.

10 different mechanisms for 10 different lines Line mechanic checks the machine very often and rectifies the problem and

takes supervisor’s sign over it.

MAINTENANCE SECTION

This will be carried out by the maintenance team of the company and recorded.

Supplier’s manual is available in the plant in case guidance is required. In the event of major breakdown which the company cannot handle, it will be

informed to the supplier’s service section. Minor adjustments, which operator can perform are listed out and the same

will be attached on the stitching machines.

Commissioning of the machines:

All the machines are pre-set and completely assembled. As such minor adjustments are required for commissioning.

Installation work has been done by authorized dealers of the respective machines and utilities.

Generator Maintenance:

Generator commissioning has been done by the authorized dealer.

All the maintenance manuals of generator are available at the plant. Company has entered a service contract with authorized service agency.

Compressor Maintenance:

Commissioning work has been done by the authorized dealer. Maintenance work has been carried out by the supplier. Company has entered a service contract with authorized service agency.

Consumables:

Consumables mainly used are needles, knives and oils. These are changed either after breakage or by observing that they are blunt

or otherwise not functional. Needle systems used for different machines are as per attached list. Spare parts availability For single needle and double needle machines of Brother and Juki no spare

parts are kept in stock because the dealer is there in Bangalore itself and whenever a problem arises the dealer is called for rectification and spare parts.

For special machines of V.I. B.E. Mac spare parts are kept as the dealer is not in Bangalore. The machines are imported from Japan.

Spare parts replacement

Broken parts are brought to the department and the machine number is written which is unique for every machine in the factory. The reason and rectifiers name is recorded and the spare part is given for replacement.

New defrix no.1 colorless oil is used. When this oil changes color or turns yellowish or reddish then it is replaced.

Needle replacement procedure:

When a needle breaks all the parts of the broken needle are collected and taped together and then only the production starts.

Incase of missing broken needle part:

Red bin- every garment in that area are kept in a bin and passed through the needle detector. And when the needle part is detected, then only the production starts.

People Involved:

Mechanics- 1 per 1.5 lines Electrician- 1 per 3 lines STP/ETP Operator-0 Boiler operator-2

This department takes care of all the accounting and financial activities related to the factory.

The department is responsible for maintaining yearly audited financial statements for the

company.

Accounting operations handles the activities like the maintaining the books for

Purchase

Sales

Expenses

Payments, i.e., payments of bills as per the GRN generated by the stores.

Finance operations include:

Collection, that is, collection of payments from the customers

LC or letter of credit creation

Managing BG or bank guarantee.

This department takes care of the exports and imports as well. The main functions include:

1. Licensing

JTFT license (advance license for fabric trims & embellishments)

EPCG (license for imports of capital goods)

2. Documentation of certification

3. Logistics Documentation

4. Shipment details as per the buyer

5. Customs Clearance

6. Bank documents

7. Documentation of Payment to suppliers

8. Duty exemption documents etc.

ACCOUNTS AND FINANCE DEPARTMENT

HUMAN RESOURCE & ADMINISTRATION SECTION

HR Department takes care of all the employee related activities like the recruitment,

selection, induction, training, remunerations, provident fund, gratuity, ESI etc. The

administration department takes care of the transportation, guest accommodation and other

industrial relation activities like dealing with the labor department, pollution control board,

local panchayath, municipal works etc.

Recruitment is done by aptitude tests. It is used to be in the local language. On recruitment,

the employees are to produce the documents required for the age proof, PF nomination,

gratuity nomination, ESI nomination and employable certificate. Every employee recruited

will undergo an induction training and initial training on the tailoring machines. There also

certain advanced training programs aimed at multi skilling the work force.

Objectives:

To maintain the personnel documents.

To ensure employees benefits

To recruit new staff, employees etc.

To collect and solve employees grievances

INFORMATION TECHNOLOGY SECTION

The company has an IT department which takes care of the MIS and the ERP system of the

company.

Two software applications “------------” and “-------------” are being used in the factory.

Stage is Inventory Management software while “Proman” takes care of all the production

related activities. Once the order is confirmed, a new account is opened in the software

which generates the work order no. Once the Work Order no has been generated all the

information related to that order can be traced using that number.

Apart from this, the company uses Morgan Software for lay planning and Gerber Accumark

for marker planning. The MTM department uses SAP – ERP. The IT department has data

entry operators who regularly enter the information into the software.

The main functions of IT dept are:

Maintaining MIS

Managing all IT related tasks like maintaining network, internet access etc

Assist the employees to tackle any IT related issues encountered

Maintenance of all hardware like computers, scanners, printers, Xerox machine, fax

machines etc.

TRAINING SECTION

There is a full-fledged training department which imparts the initial training to the operators

as well as advanced training to experienced operators. All training needs of the company are

dealt in a scientific way.

All newly recruited employees are to undergo an induction training which aligns them with

the organisation. Operators are recruited after a selection test. Freshers are taken in D

grade. In the case of experienced operators, the grade in which they are included is decided

based on their skill levels. A 15 day training program is devised for the new recruits, which

include:

Basic exercises

6 paper exercises

4 fabric exercises

Job exercises

Single cycle

Stamina build up

The employees are also given a discipline class and awareness on team work concept. The

trainees are constantly monitored for their performance and their learning curves are plotted

against the ideal curve to identify the gaps. Once the trainees achieve 50% efficiency, they

are absorbed in the production line on jobs suitable to their caliber, and are constantly

monitored by training department till they reach an efficiency level of 75%.

HOUSE-KEEPING SECTION

People Involved:

Supervisor-1

Sweeper- 13

Toilet Cleaner- 4

Gardener cum dog keeper- 2

Problems seen in the factory:

PPC department in H.O. decides for the Factory capacity on per day basis and decides SAM for operations without taking into account actual operator efficiency present in the factory who has to undertake the real work of Production.

Therefore the SAM pre-decided ≠ the observed SAM As sampling is done in the H.O. most of the Critical operations are not

identified before the bulk production starts. Incorrect operations lead to Increased time loss in operations due to

operator’s idleness. Fabric not received on time or received an unchecked lot No use of appropriate folders or templates in stitching No. of reworks carried out is far more to hinder the meeting of planned

target for any day Improper WIP Defects arise because either the operator is inefficient in that particular

operation or the operator is not careful or there is a machine breakdown Communication problem between operator and supervisor There are certain defects that are not taken care of in the sewing itself and

are passed onto the finishing department Method followed by each operator doing a similar operation is different

many times. (method each operator follows should be checked) Bottleneck operations allocated to unskilled or grade b operator (maintain

database for multi skilled operator so as to enable shuffling him within operations

Operator not present at workstation

Production schedule

Pattern for Sampling

Merchant

GMO H.O. Pattern Deptt.

Production Co-ordinator

FM/PM

EMB

?Cutting?

Trims/ Accessories Stores

Fabric stores

H.O. IED

Factor?IED Washing

Planning Deptt.?

Pattern/ CAD Deptt.

Sampling Deptt.

Trims/ Accessories ware house

Fabric Ware house

GDI

GDI

GDI, GRN

GDI, Shade Approval, CSV Approval, Consumption Approval

Customer

?Sewing

KB & Dispatch

Finishing ?& Packing

P.O. Sample

a

a

Patterns & Markers

GDI, GRN

Packing List, Packing Approvals

Patterns for marking & iron

Line Design

Washing Plan

PO Copy

M/c plan, folder attachments, profile details

Line Design

Wash Approval

Sample Indent

PPM Approval

Style detail Approval

Planning

Line Plan

PO pocket release

FR plan Style Allocation

Capacity planning

F

C.t.=316 min VA=0

Ct208, VA=0

Batch Size 1 pcCycle Time 316 minNo. of people 8WIP pcs 12,778Down timeC/O time