THEARTOFDISTILLINGREVISED&UPDATED
ANENTHUSIAST’SGUIDETOTHEARTISANDISTILLINGOFWHISKEY,VODKA,GIN,ANDOTHERPOTENTPOTABLES
EditedbyBillOwens,AlanDikty,andAndrewFaulknerofthe
CONTENTSFOREWORDbyFritzMaytag
INTRODUCTIONTOTHESECONDEDITIONbyBillOwens
Chapter1ABRIEFHISTORYOFDISTILLING
Chapter2THEDISTILLINGPROCESS
Chapter3WHISKEY
Chapter4VODKA
Chapter5GIN
Chapter6BRANDYANDEAUDEVIE
Chapter7RUM
Chapter8TEQUILAANDAGAVESPIRITS
Chapter9INFUSEDSPIRITS:Liqueurs,Schnapps,Anise,andBitters
Chapter10DISTILLINGRESOURCES
ABOUTTHECONTRIBUTORS
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
ABOUTTHEAUTHORS
INDEX
FOREWORDbyFritzMaytag
THESECONDWhiskeyRebellionishappeningintheUnitedStates,anditisalreadyspreadingaroundtheworld.Inthismarvelousbook,BillOwens,AlanDikty,AndrewFaulknerandtheircontributors—likeintrepidwarcorrespondents—takeyoutothefrontlines.Youwillfindhereanup-to-the-minutereportontheexcitement,creativity,andbrashenthusiasmoftheUnitedStates’craftdistillers.
FritzMaytag(right)talkingwithBillOwens,in2009.
IhaveknownBillOwenssincehisearlyinvolvementintheU.S.’smicrobrewingrenaissance:Hewasoneofthemovement’smostferventinnovators.Hisownachievementsaremany,andhisenthusiasmforthewholewildexplosionofbrewingcreativityisevidencedinhisobviousenjoymentofthesuccessesofhisbrewingcolleagues.
Thecraft-brewingrenaissance,ofcourse,beganinthe1960s.Bytheearly’90s,itwasinevitablethatitwouldevolveintoacraft-distillingrenaissance.Andso,Billandhiscohortsareatitagain,nowcelebratingasmall-distilleryrevolutionandthevarietyandcreativitythatisspringingupeverywhere.Yes,wenowhave“craft”whiskeydistillers,experimentingwithallfacetsofgraindistilling.And,aswiththebrewingrevolution,theconsumerreapstherewards.Weareenteringagoldenageforthespiritslover,andTheArtofDistillingWhiskeyandOtherSpirits:AnEnthusiast’sGuidetotheArtisanDistillingofPotentPotablesisanindispensableguidebooktoitsbeginnings.
Detailofthefermentingprocessofmakingbourbon,WoodfordReserveDistillery.
CharringoakbarrelsatBluegrassCooperage.
Wheredidthecraft-distillingphenomenonoriginate?Youcouldsaythatitcamedownfromthemountains,wherepot-distilledwhiskeysmadebyhand—insecretfolds—haveneverentirelydisappeared.Oryoucouldsaythatitcameupfromthevineyardsandorchards,whereformanyyearstherehasbeenatinycraft-distillingsegmentofsuperb,hand-craftedfruitbrandiesandeaux-de-vie.JustknowthatasecondWhiskeyRebellionisuponusandthatitishappeningrightnowinalittlebuildingnearyou.Andifyouhavepickedupthisbook
alreadyknowingaboutthegreatfoodawakeningandhopingforaguidetodistilling,youhavefoundit!
Whatparticularlyfascinatesmeaboutthedistillationofalcoholistheenduringmysterysurroundingitsorigins.Distillationitselfisaphysicalartwithalong—andcolorful—history.Andthedistillingofallsortsofmaterialsformyriadpurposesisanancientprocess.Butwhendidtheproductionofdistilledspiritsasabeveragebegin?Youarewelcometoyouropinion,andgoodluckfindinganyonetoagreewithyou!Nomatterwhatyouthink,Iencourageyoutosavortheeternalenigmathatisembodiedinadistilledspirit.Itisaformofmagictotakefruitorgrain,fermentit,putitinapot,heatitandmakeitdisappearentirely,andthenwatchitreappear,dropbydrop,asaclear,volatile,almostetherealliquid.Anditisadangerousliquid—donotkidyourself.Itcancatchfire,itcanexplode,andabusingitcanruinlives.Itispowerful,mysteriousstuff,surelyonereasonthatitcapturestheimaginationoftheproducersandconsumersswirlingandswillingaroundthecurrentawakening.
SodrinkdeepofBill,Alan,andAndrew’sguide,getontheroadwiththem,goexploringandlearning,andenjoybeinganearlyparticipantinthemovement.Andtakemywordforit,asadistillerofwhiskeysincethesecondWhiskeyRebellion’sfirstshot:“Headswewin,tailswewin!”
FritzMaytag,AnchorDistilling,SanFrancisco,April2009
INTRODUCTIONTOTHESECONDEDITION
byBillOwens
ASAYOUNGMANinthe1970s,Ihadlonghair,aVolkswagenBeetle,ahipwife,andacareerasanewspaperphotographer.Ialsopublishedfourphotographymonographs,includingtheclassicSuburbia(stillinprint),andIreceivedaGuggenheimFellowshipinphotographyandthreeNationalEndowmentfortheArtsgrants.MydreamwastoworkforLifemagazineorNationalGeographic,andIendedupstringingfortheAssociatedPressandcoveredtheHell’sAngelsbeatingpeoplewithpoolcuesatAltamont.Whileallthiswashappening,Iwashomebrewinginthegarage.
Bythe1980s,whenIreachedmiddleage,Ihadaflattop,soldtheVWandcameras,andlostawonderfulwife.In1982,IopenedthefirstbrewpubintheUnitedStates:BuffaloBill’sBreweryinHayward,California.Thebeerwasgood.Mypumpkinaleisstillbeingbrewedbymanybreweries.Mypublicimagewas“colorful,”andthenewsmedialovedme.Istartedbelievingmyownpressclips.Iopenedtwomorebrewpubsandlaunchedapublicstockofferingtofundthebuildingofalarge-scaleproductionbrewery.Itallseemedlikeagoodideaatthetime.Itwas,afterall,“MorninginAmerica,”ReaganwasintheWhiteHouse,andtheoperativephraseforthetimeswas“Greedisgood.”
Iwantedsuccess,money.Ihadthreebrewpubs.Igrossedamilliondollarsthatyear,butIhadtopaysixtyemployeesandendedupwithnoprofit.Thingsdon’talwaysworkoutasyoudream.Thestockofferingnevergotofftheground,andonebyone,thebrewpubsweresoldoff,withBuffaloBill’sbeingthelasttogo.ButI’llalwayshaveAlimonyAle(“ThebitterestbeerinAmerica!”).
Bythe1990s,Ihadgrayhairandanewwife,andIwaspublishingtwomagazines:AmericanBrewerandBeer:TheMagazine.Onceagain,mytimingwasgoodandAmericanBrewerrodethefirstgreatwaveofcraftbrewing.Thingswerelookinggreat,butfinancially,thetwomagazinesturnedouttobenotsuchagreatidea.IsoonstoppedpublishingBeerandsoldAmericanBrewer.
Soonafter,theAARPmailingsstartedshowingup,andIopenedanantiquestore.Thatventurelasted6months.ThenmyliteraryagentsoldsomeSuburbia
photographstoEltonJohn,givingmeenoughmoneyfora(used)Lexusandthecashfora3-monthtripacrossAmerica,soIranawayfromhome.Onthistrip,Idecidedtovisitsomecraftdistilleries.Iwasintrigued,andthecreativejuicesstartedtoflowagain.WhenIreturnedtoCalifornia,IfoundedtheAmericanDistillingInstitute(ADI).In2003,IheldthefirstADIdistillingconferenceatSt.George/Hangar1Distillery,andeightypeopleshowedup.
ResearchonTheArtofDistillingWhiskeyandOtherSpiritsstartedin2006.
In2007,IdecidedtomakeanothertripacrossAmerica.Again,thetripwasfundedbysellingphotographstomuseums,anassortmentofartgalleriesand
fundedbysellingphotographstomuseums,anassortmentofartgalleriesandfriendsintheUnitedStatesandinEurope.Thissecondtrip(21,000miles)took4months,andfromfifty-threeDVDsofimages,weselected100orsoforthefirsteditionofthisbook.DoesanybodyrememberDVDs?
Tenyearsago,theoriginaleditionofTheArtofDistillingWhiskeyandOtherSpiritswaspublished,and500peopleattendedtheAmericanDistillingInstitute(ADI)conferenceatSt.GeorgedistilleryinAlameda,CA.The2018conferencehad2,000attendeesfromsevendifferentcountries.
That’sjustthebeginningofthechangesthathaveoccurredinthelast10years.Asthegrowthofcraftdistillinghasbeenaround30%ayear,craftdistillingisnotabouttoslowdownorpeakanytimesoon.TheU.S.government’sAlcoholandTobaccoTaxandTradeBureaulicensesapproximatelytwonewdistilledspiritsplantsforeachworkingday.CraftdistilleriesarepoppingupintheUK,Europe,Australia,SouthAfrica,andmanyothercountries.ThereisevenacraftdistilleryonSt.HelenaintheSouthAtlantic,oneofthemostremoteislandsintheworld.
Vodkaisnolongerthedarlingofcraftdistilling.Now,itiswhiskeyandgin.Asofearly2018,thereareover1,500licensedcraftdistilleriesintheUSA,andatleast700ferment,distillandbottletheirownspirits.Asignificantnumberofthemgrowtheirowncorn,rye,andbarley.Whiskeyistheflavoroftheweek,month,andyearfornowandfortheforeseeablefuture.Thelatestgenerationofcraftdistillersisusingabeer-stylewashtoproducewhiskey.Icanassureyouthemarriageofbrewery-distilleryisgoingtohappen.
Nexttowhiskey,ginhasseentremendousgrowth.Youcansayithascaughtoninabigway.Therearenowdozensofdistillersbarrel-aginggin,aprocessthatsetsyouapartfromstandardginsandgivesyouflavorandromance.Thenewgenerationofginsiswonderful,andtherearemorethan500ginproducers.
Spiritspunditspredictbrandywillcomeback.Theproblemwithbrandyisthatonlyafewstateshavewineriesabletoproducegrapessuitableforbrandy.However,applebrandy,broughttoyoubyJohnnyAppleseed,isfollowingon
However,applebrandy,broughttoyoubyJohnnyAppleseed,isfollowingonthetailsofappleciderasthenextresurgingcategory.WithWashington,NewYork,Michigan,andPennsylvanialeadingthecharge,Americanapplejackhasapatrioticringtoitthatfewdistillerscanresist.
With400craftdistillersmakingrum,itisnotfarbehindginandwhiskey.ManydistillersareusingsugarcanejuiceandmolassesproducedbyAmericansugarcanefarmers.Theresultingspiritsarewonderful.Istillhaveafootinbothcamps,photographyanddistillation.ButifIhadtochoose,it’dbedistilling,becauseit’sawayoflife,andthecraft-distillingindustryisreallyaboutlifestyle.Peopletakegreatprideinproducingspirits.Thisbookisalookatcraftdistillersandtherestofthewhiskey,rum,vodkaandginindustry.
SpecialthankstoAlanDikty,thecoauthorandeditorofthisbook,andapersonalfriend.Alanhasbeenwithmeasafriendandwriterforsome40years.Alanknowsspirits.
Andfinally,abigthank-youtoAndrewFaulkner.Healsostartedwithmethroughphotographyand,afteradecadeandahalfwithADI,isnoweditorandpublisherofDistillermagazine.
BillOwens,Hayward,California,March2009
AUTHOR’SNOTEONSPELLINGForreasonsthathaveyettobeadequatelyexplained,AmericanandIrishdistillersspellthewordwhiskeywithane,whiletheirScotch,Canadian,Japanese,andNewZealandpeersspellwhiskywithoutit.
Chapter1
ABRIEFHISTORYOFDISTILLING
SINCEtheearliestknownuseofdistillationabout5,000yearsago,practiceofthearthasgrownandspreadaroundtheworldinseveralwaves,thespeedandextentofeachbeingdictatedbygeography,traderoutesandculturalandreligiousinfluences.Eachsuccessivewavegaverisetosignificanttechnicaladvancesindistillation,makingitlessexpensive,moreefficient,andmorecontrollable.
PossiblytheearliestwrittenrecordofdistillationisintheEpicofGilgamesh,whichdescribesaformofessentialoildistillationpracticedinBabylonasfarbackas3000BC.Herbswereplacedinalargeheatedcauldronofboilingwater,andthecauldron’sopeningwascoveredwithasheepskin,fleecesidedown.Periodicallythesheepskinwaschanged,andthecondensatesoakingthefleecewaswrungoutintoasmalljar.Essentialoilsfloatedtothesurfaceofthewatercollectedinthejarandwereskimmedoff.Medievaltextsandwoodcutsshowthesameprinciplebeingusedtoconcentratealcoholicvaporsfromboilingwine.(Incidentally,thisissimilarinprincipletoamethodthatthePhoeniciansusedforconsumingcannabis.)
VeryFineWhiskeybottle,circathe1920s:Thisvintagebottlewasacquiredemptyatafleamarket.
DISTILLINGMIGRATESEASTANDWEST
By500BC,alcoholdistillationwasanestablishedindustryintheancientIndianareaknownasTaxila(inmodernnorthwestPakistan),wherearchaeologistsdiscoveredaperfectlypreservedterra-cottadistillationsystem.Inthisprocess,steamrisingfromapotofboilingwaterpassedthroughabedoffermentedgrains,pickingupalcoholandflavorsfromthegrains.Thevaporsthenstruckthebottomofasecondpotfilledwithcoldwater,wheretheycondensedanddrippedintoacollectiontube.
FromTaxila,knowledgespreadtotheEastandtheWest,andby350BC,knowledgeofthedistillingprocessappearedinthewritingofAristotleinGreeceandSinedriusinLibya.ThefirstarrivalofdistillationtechnologyinChinaismisty,butbyAD25,bronzestillsofsimilardesignwerebeingproducedandusedthere.
BytheendofthefirstmillenniumAD,thepracticeofdistillationhadspreadthroughoutnorthernAfricaandtheMiddleEast.Theprocesshadadvancedsignificantlyoverthis1000-yearperiod,andthematerialbeingdistilledwasnowboileddirectlyinalargesealedpot,whichhadalongtubeleadingfromitsapextoasmallcollectionjar.WhentheMoorsinvadedSpain,theybroughtthistechnologywiththem,andsoonthegenie(orspirit)wasoutofthebottle.ThetechnologyspreadfromSpaintoItalyinAD1100,andwasrecordedinIrelandby1200,Germanyby1250,andFranceby1300.England,Scotland,Poland,Russia,andSwedenjoinedtheclubby1400.
ThesewoodcutsfromTheArtofDistillationbyJonathanFrench(1651)showasmallpartofthewidevarietyofformsdistillingequipmenthadtakenbytheseventeenthcentury.Twokey
improvementsareshown:multipledistillationsinonesetup(onestillfeedingintothenext),below,andanimprovedvaporcondenser(acoiloftubingknownasa“worm”inabarrelofcoldwater),
left.
DISTILLINGTECHNOLOGYEVOLVESEuropeanexplorationandconquestspreadrapidlyaroundtheworld,carryingthetechnologyofdistillationwithit.ThefirststillsintheAmericasappearednotlongaftertheconquistadores,andthePortuguesebroughtthetechnologytoJapanby1500.
Thistechnologywaslargelycontrolledbymonasteriesandalchemists,whocontinuouslyexperimentedandimprovedontheequipment.Bythemid-1600s,severaltextshadbeenpublishedonthesubjectofdistillation,asampleofwhichincludedthewoodcutsonthisspread,fromTheArtofDistillationbyJonathanFrench(1651).Asthisinformationspreadbeyondclericalandscientificcircles,wealthyindividualsbegantoestablishstillhousesontheirestates.
AsknowledgeblossomedthroughouttheRenaissance,distillationcontinuedtodeveloprapidly.Distillationwasremovedfromtheexclusiveprovinceofscientists,monks,andprofessionalsandbecameacommonhouseholdart.Recipebooksabounded.
Bythe1700s,thecomplexityandsophisticationofcommercial-scaledistillingequipmenthadadvancedrapidly.Advancesintheunderstandingofhowdistillationactuallyworkedledtonewstilldesignsthatcouldmakebetterqualityspiritsmoreeasilyandfasterthaninthepast.Distillingbecamemoreaccessibletothemasses,andthemonopolyheldbythechurchandtheeliteclasseswasthreatened.Thesecentersofpowersoonenactedrestrictions,atfirsttoprotectthatmonopoly,andlaterpurelyforrevenue.
REGULATIONANDREBELLIONSince1700,theregulationandcontrolofdistillationhasbeenmostlyastoryoflostfreedomsandrights.Afewraysofsunshinehavesincepokedthroughtheclouds.TheeliteandgovernmentsofEuropetriedrepeatedlytoexploitandcontroldistillation.InEngland,forexample,thefirsttaxationofcommercialdistillationappearedin1690topayforawarwithFrance.Privatedistillationwasexemptedfromthistax,anditremainedfreefrominterferenceastaxesandregulationswereraised,lowered,abolished,andresurrectedoverthenextcentury.PrivatedistillationinEnglandflourishedandgrewsignificantlyduringthistime(andperhapsnotalittleofthisproductfounditswayintocommercialchannelsviathebackdoor),untilitwasoutlawedin1781toenhancethecollectionofrevenue.ThemassiveGinCrazeofearlyeighteenth-centuryGreatBritainhaditsroots,inpart,inthisunfetteredspreadofdistillation.
TheUnitedStatesgovernment’sfirstattempttotaxdistillationresultedintheWhiskeyRebellionof1791,whichwasputdownbyfederaltroopsledbyGeorgeWashington(whowasservingaspresidentatthetime).
TheWhiskeyRebellioninwesternPennsylvania.
FederalexcisetaxeswereabolishedaftertheendoftheWarof1812,onlytobeimposedduringtheCivilWarinthe1860s(andcontinuetothisday).
NapoleonintroducedregulationinFrance.Thelawsvariedwidelyoverthenextcentury,butstabilizedin1914,whentherightwasgrantedtoanyonewithavineyardororchardtodistillupto20litersofspiritsfromtheirfruitiftheyagreedtopayatax.Thisrightwasoriginallyinheritable,butthatwasrevokedinthe1950s.Thissystemledtothedevelopmentoftravelingstills,knownasbouilleursdecru,whichwereonceverycommonsightsintheFrenchcountryside.Becausethenumberofpermittedindividualshasshrunkwitheverypassingyear,veryfewofthesemobiledistilleriesremain.
Australianslosttheirrighttohome-distilltheirownbeveragesintheaftermathofWorldWarI,againasarevenuemeasure.
“THEREISMOREREFRESHMENTANDSTIMULATIONINANAP,EVENOFTHEBRIEFEST,THANINALLTHEALCOHOLEVERDISTILLED.”Ovid(ancientRomanclassicalpoetandnotoriouswetblanketatbacchanals,43–17BCE)
ManyAfrican,LatinAmerican,andsouthernEuropeannationshavecontinuedtoallowprivatedistillationunderawidevarietyofrules,rangingfromnone,
throughinspectionofstills,toonerousregulationsandhightaxation.Ingeneral,traditionalalcoholicbeveragesaremadeinmostfarmhousesusingtraditionalequipment(mostlypotstillsofvariousforms),withoutanyadverseeffectsonsociety.
Onecountertrendtothismarchofincreasedgovernmentregulationwasthelegalizationofprivate,noncommercialdistillingbyNewZealandin1996.TheNewZealandgovernmentfoundthattheexpenseofenforcingthebanonprivatedistillationfaroutweighedtherevenuecomingfromfines,sothelawwasabolished.Thischangeledtowidespreadadoptionofsmall-scaledistillingasahobby,and,ashobbyistsalwayswill,theyexperimentedwithequipmentandtechniquescontinuously.ThisboominhomedistillinginNewZealanddidnotgounnoticed,andstartingaroundtheturnofthe21stcentury,anewgenerationoflicensedcommercialcraftdistilleriesstartedtoopeninNorthAmerica,theUnitedKingdom,andpartsofEurope.
FUTURETRENDSJustastheappearanceofmicrobreweriesfollowedtherenaissanceofhomebrewing,increasingthechoicesandlevelofqualityforallbeerdrinkers,craftdistilleriesarestartingtothrivearoundtheworld,usingnewequipmentandmethods.Manyofthesemodernsmalldistilleriesareexperimentingwithnewtypesandcategoriesofspirits,creatingnovelandsometimesuniquelylocalspirits.
Thefirstmoderncraftdistilleries,suchasSt.GeorgeSpirits,Germain-Robin,JepsonVineyards,andClearCreekDistillerywereestablishedinthe1980s,closelyfollowingthegrowthcurvesoffamilywineriesafterProhibitionandthegrowthofcraftbreweriesfollowingFritzMaytag’spurchaseofAnchorBrewing.Sincearound2000,exponentialgrowthhasfollowedthepatternofaclassicindustryresurgenceandisexpectedtocontinueforyearstocome.
TheU.S.movementhasgarneredsomuchexcitementthatithasinspiredsimilarproliferationofdistilleriesandbrandsinCanada,Ireland,Scotland,England,France,Australia,India,SouthAfrica,andmanyothercountriesaroundtheglobe.
GEORGEWASHINGTONANDGERRYMANDERINGItiswellknownthatGeorgeWashingtonwasadistiller.Whatislesswellknownisthatthelawshecraftedsetthedistinctionbetweentheheavilytaxedsmalldistillersandthelightlytaxedlargedistillers,thelinebeingdrawnjustbelowthesizeofhisdistillery.Politicsworkedinmuchthesamewaythenasitdoestoday.
MOONSHINE
Theculturalstereotypeof“cornlikker”moonshinebeingmadebyhillbilliesdeepinthewoodsinSouthernstateswasneverquitethefinalwordonmoonshineproductionintheUnitedStates.Anywherefruitorgrainisgrown,illicitspiritsweredistilledforhomeuseandinformalcommercialsale.Theheydayoflarge-scalemoonshineproductionwasduringU.S.Prohibitionofthe1920sand1930s,whenalloftheUnitedStatesandpartsofCanadawereofficiallydry.Butillegalmoonshineproductionstillcontinuesonareducedscaletothisday.Someofitisproducedbyincreasinglysophisticatedhomedistillers,andyes,therearestillbackwoodsmoonshiners,evenifsomeofthoseseemtoexistprimarilytoappearoncablenetworktelevisionshows.
Alas,times(andmoonshine)arenotwhattheyusedtobe.Modernmoonshinerstendtoskipthegrainmashingandgodirectlytofermentationbydissolvingregularsugarinwarmwater,fermentingthesugarwaterwithbaker’syeastandthendistillingofftheresultingalcohol.Theresultsarespiritsmuchinferiortoadistilledgrainspirit,andultimatelyanarrestedmoonshiner.TheAlcoholandTobaccoTaxandTradeBureau(TTB,alsoknownas“theFeds”)keepstrackofthesaleoflargequantitiesofbulksugar,particularlyinruralareaswithapasthistoryofmoonshining,althoughasurprisingamountofthis“sugarshine”ismade,oratleastproducedforsaleinwhataresometimesdelicatelyreferredtoasurbanethnicmarkets,particularlyinthemid-Atlanticstates.
Youhavebeenwarned.
AtombstonethatwasusedduringProhibitionforstashingmoonshinenearMorgantown,WestVirginia
DIRTTRACKDISTILLING
StudentsofAmericanpopularcultureknowthatmoonshinewhiskeyandNASCARgotogetherlikeactorBurtReynoldsandmusclecars.Startingin1973withthemovieWhiteLightning,ReynoldsmadeacareerofportrayingSoutherngoodol’boysdeliveringmoonshineinfastcars,whileoutrunningthelocalsheriff.
Thereal-lifeinspirationforsuchcinemacharacterswasRobertGlenJohnsonJr.(bornin1931inWilkesCounty,NorthCarolina),betterknownasJuniorJohnson.JohnsonwasamoonshinerintheruralSouthwhobecameoneoftheearlysuperstarsofNASCARinthe1950sand’60s.
Johnsongrewuponafarmanddevelopedhisdrivingskillsrunningmoonshineasayoungman.Heconsistentlyoutranandoutwittedlocalpoliceandfederalagentsinautochases,andhewasnevercaughtwhiledeliveringmoonshinetocustomers.
APOScardadvertisingJuniorJohnson’sMidnightMoonbyPiedmontDistillers
JohnsonbecamesomethingofalegendintheruralSouth,wherehisdrivingexpertiseand“outlaw”imageweremuchadmired.Johnsoniscreditedwithinventingthe“bootlegturn,”inwhichadriverescapesapursuerbysharplyputtinghisspeedingcarintoa180-degreeturnonthehighway,thenspeedingoffintheoppositedirectionbeforehispursuercanturnaround.Johnsonwasalsoknowntousepolicelightsandsirenstofoolpoliceroadblocksintothinkingthathewasafellowpoliceman;uponhearinghisapproach,thepolicewouldquicklyremovetheroadblocks,allowingJohnsontoescapewithhismoonshine.
removetheroadblocks,allowingJohnsontoescapewithhismoonshine.
In1955,Johnsondecidedtogiveupdeliveringmoonshineforthemorelucrative(andlegal)careerofbeingaNASCARdriver.Unfortunately,the“Revenuers”hadnotforgottenJunior.In1956,federalagentsfoundJohnsonworkingathisfather’smoonshinestillandarrestedhim.Johnsonwasconvictedofmoonshiningandwassenttofederalprison,whereheserved11monthsofa2-yearsentence.HereturnedtotheNASCARscenein1958andpickedupwhereheleftoff.HewentontowinfiftyNASCARracesinhiscareerbeforeretiringin1966.
SpeciallyCraftedCatdaddyCarolinaMoonshinebyPiedmontDistillers,Madison,NC.
In1965,writerTomWolfewroteanarticleaboutJohnsoninEsquiremagazine.Thearticle,originallytitled“GreatBallsofFire,”turnedJohnsonintoanationalcelebrityandledtofamebeyondhiscircleofNASCARfans.Inturn,thearticle
wasmadeintoa1973moviebasedonJohnson’scareerasadriverandmoonshinertitledTheLastAmericanHero.JeffBridgesstarredasthesomewhatfictionalizedversionofJohnson,andJohnsonhimselfservedastechnicaladvisorforthefilm.
Morerecently,Johnson’sfamilyhaslicensedtheJuniorJohnsonnameforuseinpromotingalegaldistilledproduct:JuniorJohnson’sMidnightMoonfromPiedmontDistillersinMadison,NorthCarolina.
DON’TTRYTHISATHOME(NUDGE,NUDGE,WINK,WINK,SAYNOMORE)SoonafternationalProhibitionbeganinthe1920s,apersoncouldwalkintovirtuallyanygrocerystoreintheUnitedStatesandfindforsalebrick-sizeblocksofcompressedraisinsboundtogetherwithcondensedgrapejuice.Attachedtotheblockwasasmallcontainerofdriedyeast.Thewrappingcontainedthefollowingtext:
“WARNING:Donotdissolvethisfruitbrickinwarmwaterandthenaddthecontentsoftheyeastpacket,asthiswillresultinfermentationandthecreationofalcohol,theproductionofwhichisillegal.”
Needlesstosay,thelocalA&PsoldalotoffruitbrickswhileProhibitionwasinforce.
Traditionalmoonshinestartsoutwiththeproductionandfermentationofwhatisbasicallyasimplebeer.Traditionalistswouldcreateamashofgroundcorn,hotwater,andenoughmaltedbarleytoprovidesufficientenzymestoconvertthestarchinthegrainsintosimplesugars.Oncethestarchconversionwascomplete,yeastwasaddedtothemash,withtheresultingfermentationturningthesugarsintoalcohol.Thefermentedmashwouldthenbeboiledinthepotstilltodistilloffthealcohol.
MODERN“MOONSHINERS”Thecurrentinterestamonghobbyistdistillersincreatingfirst-rateliquors,andthegeneralwholesomequalityoftheirproducts,tracksprimarilytoseveralconvergenttrends:
VirginiaLightningCornWhiskeybyBelmontFarm.
“WHISKEYISWHATBEERWANTSTOBEWHENITGROWSUP.”
VirginiaLightningMoonshinebyBelmontFarm,Culpeper,VA.
CRAFTBREWERS
Craftbrewersarenotsimplythefirstonestostudyhowtomakeoutstandingsmall-batchspirits;theyarealsogoingtoshapethefaceofmicro-andpersonaldistilling.Brewershavealreadymasteredthreekeyskills:howtocollaborate,howtoorganize,andhowtodrivelegislation.
Thecurrentinterestindistillingamongbrewersissowidespreadthatitisvirtuallyimpossibletotalktocraftbrewerswhoaren’talreadydistillingonthesly,workingonpermits,orknowsomeonewhois.Oneerstwhilebrewerframedhistransitionfrombeertoliquorwiththisaphorism:Whiskeyiswhatbeerwantstobewhenitgrowsup.
Makingbeerathomehasbeenlegalonafederallevelsince1978.Foradecadeorsoafteritwaspermitted,homebrewers(intheUnitedStates)exploredallkindsofbeerandalestylestheycouldnotpurchasethroughtheirlocalstores.Theyperfectedtheirtechniques,competedagainsteachotherinregionalandnationalcontests,publishedtheirpersonalrecipes,gaveoutawardstotheirpeers,andlaterputthatknowledgetousebyopeningbrewpubsandcraftbreweries.
Homebrewsupplyshopseverywhereweresellinghops,malts,specialtygrains,carboys,esotericscientificequipment,andlab-culturedyeaststotensofthousandsofhomebrewerstrying,goodnaturedly,tobesteachotherinroundsofMyBeerIsBetterThanYours.
Bythe1990s,somebrewerswerepushingthelimitsoftheirequipmentandingredients,becomingessentiallynovicedistillers.Theirhomemaderigslookedprettymuchthesameasbrewingequipment.Theingredientswerethesame.Theywerelearningonpotstillsbecause,forhundredsofyears,variationsonthatmodelhadbeenthechoiceoffolkdistilling.Mostofwhatacasualresearcherfoundinpopularculturereferenceswerethebig,copper,pumpkin-shapedboilersofastylethatwouldhavebeenfamiliartoeighteenth-centuryfarmers.
Asbrewers,theyalreadyknewaboutgrains,malt,yeast,enzymes,idealfermentationtemperatures,filtrationsystems,andthewaterprofilesthatleadtogreat-tastingbeverages.Somehadcometobelievethattheonlythingstoppingthemfromhavingwhiskeywastoomuchwater.Becausetheyhaddevelopedwidespreadnetworksforsharinginformationalready—books,magazines,contests,clubs,festivals,newsletters,andrudimentaryonlinenewsgroups—questionsbegantocirculateabouthowbesttoremovethatexcesswater.Sharing,critiquing,andjudgingwereanentrenchedpartoftheculturethatwasstartingtotakeupwhathadlongbeenasecretpractice.Anonymousonlineforumswereidealtoolsforvettinghome-distillingquestions.UnliketheoldAppalachianmoonshiners,modernhobbydistillerswithhomebrewingbackgroundswerealreadyusedtotalkingtoeachotheronlineandinperson.
backgroundswerealreadyusedtotalkingtoeachotheronlineandinperson.
ChuckMillerstandsinfrontofhispotstillatBelmontFarmDistillery(seehere),oneofadozendistilleriesintheUnitedStatedproducingalegalmoonshineproduct.
TwogenerationsofBeamsattheLimestoneBranchDistillery,Lebanon,KY.Righttoleft,SteveBeam,hisfather,Jimmy,andhisbrother,Paul.
NEWZEALAND
Becausefewofthetwentieth-centurybooksonmoonshiningheldmuchpracticalinformationontechniquesforbuildingandoperatingstills,amateurdistillerswithoutafamilyhistoryinsuchmatterslearnedbytrialanderror.Then,in1996,NewZealandlawmakersscrappedlegislationforbiddinghomedistillation,resultinginanexplosionofinterestandinnovation,specificallyaroundthedesignofhome-sizestills.
TheseinnovativeKiwihomedistillerswentonlineand,becausetheirhobbywaslegal,startedtalkingtoeachotheropenly.Brewerswhoweregettingintodistilling,withtheiralreadyestablishednetworksandcultureofopenness,noticed.TheyseizedonawealthofnewverifiableinformationcomingoutoftheSouthernHemisphereandaddedtheirownexperiences,especiallyinonlineforums.
Sincethen,asreliableinformationhasbeenvettedonlineabouthowbesttobuildandoperatesmall-scalestills,homecolumnorreflux,stillshaveevolved,becomingmorecompactandefficient,andabletoputoutasclosetopurealcoholasispossibleoutsidealaboratory(inshort,verycleanstuff).Mostrecently,aspecificstyleofdistillinghasevolvedthat’sallaboutpurity,efficiency,andmakinglotsofneutralspiritsinverycompactcolumnstills.
ApplePieMoonshinebyBaldwinDistillingCo.,MitchellACT2911,Australia.
MOONSHINEDEFINEDTheoriginaldefinitionofmoonshineisanyliquormadefromunregisteredstillsbyunlicenseddistillers.ThisdefinitioncoversaKentuckyfarmermakingtheliquorhisfatherdid,aNewYorkimbiberwresting10ounces(296ml)ofginfromacaseofBudweiser,aswellasaSanFranciscocheftweakinghergrandmother’skümmeltocarryonthetradition.
Morerecently,thegrowthofthelicensedcraft-distillingindustryhasresultedintheanomalyoflegal,brandedmoonshine,labeledassuch,oras“whitewhiskey”or“whitedog.”Suchunagedwhitespiritscanbepackagedandsoldquickly,whichhelpsthecashflowofnewstart-updistilleries.
Homedistillingdoescontinue,however,andnowfallsintothreeloosecategories—economic,technical,andartisanalproducers.
VirginiaSweetwaterMoonshinebyVirginiaSweetwaterDistillery,Marion,VA.
MilkCanMoonshinebyBackwardsDistillingCo.,Mills,WY.
MaydayMoonshinebyDurangoCraftSpirits,Durango,CO.
AvarietyofproductsbyMBRolandDistillery,Pembroke,KY.
ECONOMICDISTILLERS
Economicdistillersmakeliquorbecausehomemadeischeaperthanstorebought.Anytypeofstillmightbeused,fromaninheritedcopperpotstill,tomodernrefluxmodelsorevenanaquariumheaterinaplasticbucket.Theyareapttodistillsugarspirits,butalsograinsandfruitswhentheymaybehadinexpensively.Althoughtheirproductsarepronetobeofquestionablequality,theyarenotnecessarilybadliquor—thinkofmarcandgrappamadefrompomacethatmightotherwisebethrownaway.
TECHNICALDISTILLERS
Technicaldistillersarearmchair(orevenprofessional)engineersandchemists,gearheadswhostrivetomakethemostefficientdistillerysetuptheycan,forevertweakingandadjustingtheirrigs,creatingtechnologicalwonders.Theyrunandrerunabatchofspiritstocreatethepurestspirittheycan,takingmeticulous
rerunabatchofspiritstocreatethepurestspirittheycan,takingmeticulousnotesofeverytemperaturefluctuation,proofvariation,andyield.Technicaldistillerstendtohaveaninordinateamountofvodkaonhandbecausetheendresultoftheirfrequentexperimentsisoftenahigh-proof,nearlypurespirittheycansupplementwithextractsandessencesfortheexactflavortheywant.
ASPIRINGANDACCOMPLISHEDARTISANS
Aspiringandaccomplishedartisanscomprisethethirdgroup,whosegoalistomakeauthenticandgreat-tastingspirits.Whiletechnicaldistillersconsiderunwantedchemicalcompoundsobstaclestopureliquor,artisansrightfullyregardtasteandaromaasthebackbonethatdefinestheirownpersonalstyleofdistilling.Theytendtouseless-efficient,old-schoolpotstills—theymightimmediatelyrecognizethekindthatafarmerusedin1740.Someusecolumnstills,butwithoutthecolumnsatmaximumefficiency,thuspreservingtasteandaromabynotdistillingtothehighestproofpossible.
DIAGRAMOFACOLUMNDISTILLER
Thisflowchartillustrateshowthewashistransformedintospirits.Thebottomofthestillstripsoutthewater,whiletherectifyingsection(topofthestill)distillstheliquortoincreaseitsalcohol
percentage.
DIMENSIONSOFATYPICALSPIRITSSTILL
Apotiswiderthantall,allowingvaporstoescapefromthewash.Atallswanneckallowsforseparationofthecomponentsofthemixture.Theshapeofthestillaffectstheflavorcomponentsofthespirits.Everypotstillisunique,asdistillerswantdistinctiveflavorprofilesintheirfinished
spirits.
ANATOMYOFAPOTSTILL
Asillustratedhere,awhiskeystillhasfourparts:pot,swanneck,lynearmandcondenser.Theshapeofeachaffectsrectificationandtheflavorofthespirit.
POT:Thepotcanbyanyshape:round,onionorconical.Theshapeofthepotaffectshowthewashisheated(alwaysto172°F[78°C]).Itcanbeheatedbydirectfire,steam,gas,orwood.Mostpotshaveasightglasssothedistillercancheckforfoamingduringthedistillationprocess.
SWANNECK:Theswannecksitsontopofthepot.Itcanbetall,short,straight,ortapered.Often,theswanneckisconnectedtothepotviaanogee,abubble-shapedchamber.Theogeeallowsthedistillatetoexpand,condenseandfallbackintothepotduringdistillation.Mostpotstillshaveataperedswanneck,
expand,condenseandfallbackintothepotduringdistillation.Mostpotstillshaveataperedswanneck,allowingforbetterseparationandbetterenrichingofthespiritsduringdistilling.
LYNEARM:Thelynearmsitsontopoftheswanneck.Itcanbetiltedupordown,anditcanbetaperedorstraight.Oftenpotstillsarefittedwithadephlegmatororpurifier.Itsmainpurposeistheenrichmentofspiritsbeforethey’resentontothecondenser.
INTERNALSTEAMCOIL:Theinternalsteamcoilheatsthewashto173°F(78°C),wherethealcoholseparatesfromthewash.
CONDENSER:Thecondenser,orworm,isusedforcoolingthespiritsandprovidingasmallstreamtoacollectiontankorpail.
ECONOMICALINGREDIENTSFORDISTILLINGConsideraglutofplumsforbackyardslivovitzoraskidofdriedfruitatbargainpricingthatcanbeturnedintoArabiansiddiqui.However,ersatzwhiskeysmadefrombreakfastcerealsarenotunheardof,socaveatemptoristherule.
AfruiteaudeviefermentationatStringer’sOrchardWildPlumWinery&Distillery
Chapter2
THEDISTILLINGPROCESS
INTHEMOSTliteralsenseoftheword,distillationmeanstheconcentrationoftheessenceofasubstancebyseparatingitfromanyothersubstancesthatitismixedwith.Inthecaseofdistillingalcohol,thismeansboilingafermentedliquidinastillandcondensingthevaporbackintoaliquidtoseparatetheethanolfromthesolids,water,andotherchemicalcompoundsinthefermentedsolution.Butjustasthedevilisinthedetails,theartofdistillingisinhowthedistillerachievesthatseparationandhowprecisethatseparationis.
Thewiderangeofstillsdescribedinthischaptereachoriginallyevolvedtomeettherequirementsofproducingaparticulartypeofspirit.Dependingonthetypeofspiritbeingmade,precisionisnotnecessarilythegoalofthedistiller.Thousandsofchemicalcompoundsarecreatedbyfermentationanddistillation,allofwhichcanhave,forbetterorworse,aneffectontheultimatetasteorcharacterofadistilledspirit.Thedistiller’sprimaryjobistoretainthedesiredflavorelements,whilediscardingthosethatarenot.Thisisnotassimpleasitsounds.Anddespiteallofthehigh-techcontrolsinamoderndistillery,thestillmasterneverthelesshasthefinalcall.“GLASSOFBRANDYANDWATER!THATISTHECURRENTBUTNOTTHEAPPROPRIATENAME:ASKFORAGLASSOFLIQUIDFIREANDDISTILLEDDAMNATION.”RobertHall,nineteenth-centurytemperancecrusaderwhowasneverthelifeoftheparty.
HOWDISTILLATIONWORKS
Distillationisaphysicalprocessinwhichcompoundsareseparatedbyvirtueoftheirdifferentboilingpoints.Twocompoundswiththesameboilingpointoccurringtogetherwouldnotbeseparablebydistillation.Fortunately,suchoccurrenceswiththeingredientsinliquorandspiritsarerare.
Theseparationindistillationoccurswhenamixtureofcompoundsinthestillisbroughttoaboil.Compoundswithlowerboilingpointsvaporizeatlowertemperaturesthancompoundswithhigherboilingpoints.Thismeansthatthevapor,orsteam,risingofftheboilingmixtureisricherinthelower-boiling-pointcompoundsthaninthehigher-boiling-pointones.Next,thisvaporiscollectedandcooledtocondenseitbackintoaliquid.Theresultingliquid,calledthedistillate,containsaconsiderablyhigherconcentrationofthelower-boiling-pointcompoundsthanofthehigher-boiling-pointones.
Inasimplifiedexample,let’sconsideramixtureof90percentwaterand10percentethanol.Waterhasaboilingpointof212°F(100°C),andethanolhasaboilingpointof173.1°F(78.4°C).Theethanolwillboilandvaporizewellbeforethewater,sowhenthevaporsarecollectedandcondensed,theresultingdistillatewillhaveahighconcentrationofethanolandcomparativelylittlewater.Thedistillatewillnotbepureethanolbecausesomewaterwillvaporizeattheboilingpointofethanol,evenifthewateritselfisnotatitsboilingpoint.Tailsstartat203°F(95°C)andcontainahighpercentageoffuselalcohols,knowntodistillersaswetdogbouquet.Alittlebitisactuallyneededinsometypesofwhiskey,butonlyalittlebit.ThinkIslayScotchWhisky.
Becauseallthecompoundsinastillwillvaporizetoagreaterorlesserextentduringboiling,theseparationofthecompoundswillnotbeperfect,somoreelaboratestillshavebeendevelopedtointensifytheseparationofthevaporsoncetheyhaveleftthekettle.Inmodernhigh-separationstills,thisisdonebyemployingarefluxcolumntomanagethevaporsaftertheyleavethekettleandbeforetheyarecondensedanddrawnfromthestill.
Spiritsdancingononeoftheplatesofarectificationcolumn.
WHATADIFFERENCEADEGREEMAKESBetween174°F(78.8°C)and175°F(79.4°C)averitablewitch’sbrewofnastychemicalcompounds(knowncollectivelyasheads)arecutandremovedbyproperdistilling.Theseincludeacetone,aldehydes,andmethanol.Lazymoonshinerstendtoleavethemin,resultinginrotgutandaserioushead-bangingheadachethenextmorningasyoulieinbedandprayfortheAngelofDeathtocomeandfinishthejob.
ASTILL’SBLUEPRINTThewhiskeystillhasfourparts:pot,swanneck,lynearmandcondenser.Theshapeofeachsectionaffectsrectification(redistillation)andthetasteofthespirits.Thereisnoperfectdesign;eachmanufacturersaysitspotstillmakesthebest-tastingwhiskey.
Atthispoint,distillingisan“art.”Tomakegoodwhiskey,youneedtohavegoodingredients(cleanwash)andagoodpalate(noseandtongue),andyouneedtoknowwhentostartandstop(makingheadsandtailscuts).Whenitcomestowhiskeydistilling,theprocessiscontrolledbyadistillernotacomputeroramanual.Thepotcanbeanyshape:round,onion,orconical.Theshapeofthepotaffectshowthewashisheated(to172°F[77.8°C]).Itcanbeheatedbydirectfire,steam,gas,orwood.Allsystemshaveadvantagesanddisadvantages.Thereisnorightwaytoheatwash.Mostmanufacturers,however,preferadouble-jacketedsteam-watersystemthatprovidesagentleheattothewash.Mainly,youdon’twanttoburnthewash.Mostpotshaveasightglasssothedistillercancheckforfoamingduringthedistillationprocess.
Theswannecksitsontopofthepot.Itcanbetall,short,straightortapered.Oftentheswanneckisconnectedtothepotviaanogee,sometimescalleda“lampglass,”whichisabubble-shapedchamber.Theogeeallowsthedistillatetoexpand,condense,andfallbackintothepotduringdistillation.Mostpotstillshaveataperedswanneck,allowingforbetterseparationandbetterenrichingofthespiritsduringdistilling.
Thelynearmsitsontopoftheswanneck.Itcanbetiltedupordown,anditcanbetaperedorstraight.Mostarmsaretapereddown.OftenpotstillsarefittedwithadephlegmatororwhatScottishdistillerscallapurifier.Thedephlegmatorisfittedwithbafflesthatusewaterplatesortubestocoolthedistillate,sendingmostofitbackintothepot.Itsmainpurposeistheenrichmentofthespiritsbeforethey’resentontothecondenser.
Thecondenser,orworm,isusedforcondensingthevaporbacktoaliquidandentrainingasmallstreamtoacollectionreceiver.
THESPIRITS
Evenamodernhigh-separationstillcannotproducepureethanol.Thisisbecausewaterformsanazeotropewithethanol.Anazeotropeisamixtureoftwoliquidcompoundswhosemoleculesbecomelooselybondedsuchthattheyhaveacommonboilingpointthatisdifferentfromeitherconstituent’s.Inthecaseofethanolandwater,theazeotropeoccursatamixtureof96.5percentethanoland3.5percentwater,andithasaboilingpointof172.67°F(78.15°C).Thisis0.45°F(0.17°C)lowerthanthe173.12°F(78.4°C)boilingpointofpureethanol.Indistillation,thisazeotropeisasinglecompoundwithaboilingpointof172.67°F(78.15°C),andthestillproceedstoseparateitonthatbasis.Theethanolthatispurifiedbyafractionatingcolumnisnot,therefore,pure100percentethanolbutpure96.5percentethanol,withthe“impurity”beingpurewater.Noamountofredistillationundertheconditionsdiscussedherewillinfluencethispercentage;96.5percentalcoholbyvolume(ABV)isthetheoreticalmaximumpuritythatcanbederivedbythisprocess.
Thetemperaturesstatedaboveareatstandardatmosphericpressure.Inacolumnstill,duetoincreasedpressureatthebottomresultingfromthepressuredropovertheplates,thetemperatureswouldbequiteabithigherthanstated.Forexample,thespentwash,whichwouldhaveaboilingpointofabout212°F(100°C)atstandardpressure,wouldhaveaboilingpointofabout220°F(104.4°C)duetotheincreasedpressure.
Asmallpotstill,similartomanymoonshinestills,isinoperationfortouriststoseeattheGlenmorangieDistillery,Scotland.
WHISKEYSTILLSINDETAIL
Thereareseveraldifferentdesignsofstillsusedformakingwhiskey.Theseincludethemoonshinestill,gooseneckstill,continuous-runcolumnstill,FrenchCharentaisalembicstill,andhybridpotstill.(ThetraditionalEnglishspellingofthisFrenchwordisalembic.)
Inthebasicmoonshinestill,vaporsfromtheheatedwashriseintothecap.Afterhittingtheflattopofthestill,vaporsexitviathelynearmintothecondenser,wheretheycondenseandbecome
spirits.
MOONSHINESTILLThemostbasicandrudimentarydesignisacrudepotstill,ormoonshinestill,whichisaclosedpot,likeapressurecooker,withapipeleadingfromthelidintoacondensercoil.Thecondensercoilcaneitherbelongenoughtoair-coolthevapors,oritcanbeshorterandimmersedinawaterjacket.Suchastillaffordsminimumseparationofthevaporsbecausethereisalmostnoseparationoncetheyleavethekettle.Althoughthisdesignofstillisnotsuitableforproducingbeveragealcoholbymodernstandards,itwillstillconcentratean8or10percentABV(alcoholbyvolume)washto60percentinafairlyfastrun.
Therearemanyhomedistillersandillicitcommercialmoonshinersusingthistypeofstilltoday.And,becausethistypeofstillistypicallyheatedonastovetoporonagasburner,itisnecessarytoremoveallsuspendedsolidsfromthewashbeforeplacingitinthepot.Todootherwisewouldriskburningsolidsonthebottomofthepot.
CROSS-SECTIONOFASTILL’SCOLUMNSHOWINGTHEBUBBLECAPTRAYS
Thebubblecapssitonatrayovervaportubesinthecolumn.Thecapsprovidecontactbetweentherisingvaporsanddescendingreflux,creatingadistillingcycleandenrichingthealcohol.Arrowsindicatevaporsrisingfromthewashandhittingthebubblecaps.Apercentageofpure
vaporscontinuestoriseandthe“lesspure”fallbackintothestillforredistillation.
GOOSENECKSTILLThegooseneckpotstillisthemostcommondesignofstillusedtoproduceScottishmaltwhisky.SomeIrishwhiskeysandanumberofAmericanandCanadianwhiskeysarealsodistilledinthistypeofstill.Thisstyleofpotstillhasbeeninuseforcenturiesforcommercialwhiskeyproduction,anditisevenmorepopulartodayinmodernwhiskeydistilleriesthanever.
Thegooseneckstillhasalargeroundkettleandisfunctionallyverysimilartothecrudepotstill,exceptithasalong,broadneckrisingfromthekettlethatallowsenoughseparationtoholdbackmostofthefuselalcoholsfromthedistillatewhileretainingthedesiredflavorsinthefinishedspirit.Theneckbendsatthetopandconnectstoapipecalledalynearmthatleadstoacondensercoilimmersedinwater.Thelynearmusuallyanglesdownwardslightlytowardthecondenser,butinsomedistilleriesittiltsupward.
Thelevelofseparationinagooseneckpotstillisaffectedbytheamountofcondensationthattakesplaceintheneckandlynearmthatfallsbackintothekettle.Thiscondensationiscalledreflux,andthemorereflux,thehigherthelevelofseparation.Ifthelynearmisangleddownward,thenanyvaporinthelynearmthatcondenseswillfallforwardtowardthecondenserandbecomepartofthedistillatepassingtothereceiver.However,ifthelynearmisangledupward,condensationfallsbacktothekettleandwillcreateadditionalrefluxand,therefore,additionalseparation.
AgooseneckstillclearlyshowingthelynearmatWoodfordReserveDistillery.
BEVERAGESPRODUCEDINGOOSENECKSTILLS
Becausethelong,broadneckprovidesalargesurfacearea,whichresultsinalargerproportionofrefluxthancrudepotstills,gooseneckstillsaremoresuitablefordistillingbeveragealcohol.Thegooseneckstillsaresuitedtotheproductionofwhiskey,brandy,rum,schnapps,andothernon-neutralspirits,forwhichtheyarewidelyusedcommercially.However,theyarenotsuitableforthe
whichtheyarewidelyusedcommercially.However,theyarenotsuitablefortheproductionofvodka,gin,orotherspiritsderivedfromneutralalcohol,whichrequiresahigh-separationstillcapableofproducingpureazeotropeethanol.
Thewashdistilledingooseneckstillsistypicallyseparatedfromthesuspendedsolids,muchlikethemaltwashesusedformakingScottishmaltwhisky.Somegooseneckstillsareheatedbyanopenfireunderthekettle,whichwouldresultintheburningofsuspendedsolidsiftheywereinthewash.However,mostcontemporarystillsareheatedwithsteamjackets.This,combinedwitharummager,canenablethesestillstoboilfullmasheswithallthegraininthekettlewithoutburningthesolidsonthebottomofthepot.
Arummagerisanagitatingdevicethatslowlyturnsaroundinsidethestillpot,dragginganetofcopperchainsalongthebottomofthekettletopreventsolidsfromcakingupandburningduringdistilling.
ANATOMYOFACRAFTWHISKEYSTILL
Notallcraftwhiskeystillsarealike,butmostsharethesamebasicconstruction.
ModelofagooseneckForsythswhiskystill.
CONTINUOUS-RUNCOLUMNSTILLThistypeofstillisusedforproducingenormousvolumesofspiritinacontinuousoperationthatrunsconstantlyforuptoelevenmonthsstraightbeforeitisshutdownforcleaningandoverhauling.Theycommonlyhaveafractionatingcolumnthatstandsabout100feet(30.5m)high(similartothatofanoilrefinery)andaseriesofbubble-captraysspacedeverycoupleoffeet(0.8m)upthecolumn.Thetraysarefartherapartnearthebottomandgetclosertogethertowardthetop.Ithasnopotorkettle,perse,anditisheatedbyblastingsteamupwardfromthebottomofthecolumnwhilethewashiscontinuouslyfedintoatrayatthemiddleofthecolumn.
Asthewashrunsdownthroughthetraysofthecolumn,itencountersthehotsteam,whichvaporizesthecompoundsinthewashandcarriesthemupthecolumn.Thelower-boilingcompoundscontinuetoriseupthecolumnwhilethehigher-boilingonescondenseandarecarrieddownthecolumn.Thecolumnhasanexitvalveateverytraywherevaporcanbedrawnoffandledtoacondenser.Thisenablestheoperatorstoconfigurethesystemsocertaintraysleadtoacondenserthatgoestotheheadsreceiver,anothersetoftrayscanbesenttotheheartsreceiver,andothertrayscanbesenttothetailsreceiver.Whatflowstothebottomofthecolumnisresiduethatissenttothedrain.Apossibleconfigurationforbourbonwouldhavethetoptwotraysconfiguredforheads,thenthenextfourconfiguredforhearts,thenextfivefortails,andtherestofthetrayswouldrefluxwithnodrawoffandwhatreachedthebottomwouldbediscardedasresidue.
Thedraw-offrateswouldbesetuptomaintainaheartsfractionwith,say,aconstant65percentABV.Bourbonthat’sdistilledinacontinuous-runcolumnstillisusuallydoneintwodistillations,bothwiththeheartsdrawnoffatabout65percentABV.
Becauseacontinuous-runstillrunsformanymonthsatatime,thewashmustbefairlyclearwithaminimumofsolids;otherwise,thebuildupofresidueinthesystemwouldbecomeuntenableandthesystemwouldneedtobeshutdowntobecleaned.So,thereisnoprocesswithacontinuous-runstillwherebytheentiremashisdistilled.Themashmustalwaysbestrainedorfilteredbeforebeingplacedinthereservoirsupplyingthestill.
Thedistillerymusthaveabatteryoffermentersthatareinconstantoperationateachstageofthefermentationprocesstokeepupwiththecontinuousdemand
eachstageofthefermentationprocesstokeepupwiththecontinuousdemandforwashforthestills.
THECONTINUOUS-RUNDESIGNFLAWThereisaninherentdesignflawinthistypeofstill.Becausethecontinuous-runstillhasaconstantflowofnewwashcomingintoitatalltimes,therearealwaysheadsandtailspresentinthecolumn.Thisisunlikeabatchstill,whichisanyofthenoncontinuousstillsdiscussedinthistext,wheretheheadsaredrawnoffatthebeginningoftherunandthentheyaregone.Inacontinuous-runoperation,allfractionsareconstantlybeingintroducedtothecolumnbytheincomingwash.Thisposesnoproblemwiththetails,becauseatthetrayswheretheheartsaredrawnoff,thetailsarelowerinthecolumnandare,therefore,notpresenttobedrawnoffwiththehearts.However,headsarestillpresentatthesetrays,sonomatterhowwellacontinuous-runstillisequilibratedthere’llalwaysbeasmallamountofheadsintheheartsfraction.
Havingsaidthis,thecontinuous-runcolumnisahigh-separationstillthatmakesverypreciseseparationofthecompoundsinitscolumn.Thereisalwaysgoingtobeatraceamountofheadsinthehearts,andthisamountisstillwithintheallowablelimitsforpotablespirits.Inmostcases,itislessthantheresidualheadsfoundintheheartsfromcommercialbatchstills.
FRENCHCHARENTAISALAMBICSTILLThistypeofstillisusedalmostexclusivelyformakingbrandy,includingCognac,Armagnac,Calvados,andotherfamousFrenchbrandies.Itisdesignedespeciallytoleavealotofthearomaticsandflavorinthedistillate,andisthereforeoneofthelower-separationbeverage-alcoholstills.Becauseofthisquality,spiritsareusuallydistilledtwiceinaFrenchCharentaisalambicstill.Whiskeycanalsobemadeinthisdesignofstill.Itisfunctionallyquitesimilartothegooseneckstill,butitcreatesalowerlevelofseparation,makingaricherandcreamier-tastingwhiskey,butwithalittlemorefuselalcohol.
TheFrenchCharentaisalambicstillhasthreemajorcomponents:thekettlewithhelmet,thepreheater,andthecondenser.Thehelmetisthechamberjustabovethekettle,anditservesasanexpansionchamber,whichworkswelltoholdbackalotoftheheaviercompounds,suchasfuselalcoholsandfurfurols,whileallowingthedesirablearomaticsandflavorstobecarriedoverintothedistillate.
Thepreheater,asthenameimplies,preheatsthenextbatchofwinetobedistilled.Itisalsousedasareservoirtoenableanear-continuousdistillationprocess.Somebrandydistillerssimplyincludethemaspartofthehearts(nottheheads).Inthisway,continuouslyfeedingwineintothekettleispossible.Becausethereisnoworkablewaytodrainthepotduringoperation,thecontinuousfeedingofwinemuststopwhenthekettleistoofulltotakeanymore.
Thisalembicstillwascustom-builtbyDynamicAlembicbyreconfiguringaGrundybeertank.
Priortoadistillationrun,thepreheaterisfilledwithwinetobeheatedforthenextdistillation.Thepreheaterhasthevaportubefromthepotpassingthroughitonitswaytothecondenser.Thistransfersheatfromthevaportothewinebeforethevaporentersthecondenser.Thisheatsthewineinthepreheatertonearboilingduringthedistillationrunandreducestheamountofheatthatthecondenserhastodissipate,therebymakingefficientuseofheatandreducingtheamountofcoolingwaterused.
Thepreheaterhasapipewithavalveleadingfromittothekettle.Whenadistillationrunisfinishedandthepothasbeendrained,theoperatorcanopenthevalveandfillthekettlewithanotherchargeofwinefromthepreheaterthat’salreadyatnear-boilingtemperature.Thismakesefficientuseofheatandsignificantlyreducestheamountoftimetobringthenextbatchofwinetoaboil.ThecondenserinaFrenchCharentaisalambicstill,asinmosttypesofstills,consistsofthecoppercoilimmersedinawaterjacketwithcoldwatercirculating
consistsofthecoppercoilimmersedinawaterjacketwithcoldwatercirculatingaroundit.
AlembicstillinstallationinFrance.
BEVERAGESPRODUCEDINALAMBICSTILLS
Thesestillsareinvariablyusedtodistillwine,orinthecaseofwhiskey,distiller’sbeer.Theyarenotgenerallyusedtodistillfullmasheswithallthesolidsleftin.However,design-wise,theCharentaiscouldbeusedtodistillmasheswithsolidsbecauseitskettleisthesameasthatofthestandardalembic,whichiswidelyusedtomakegrappaandmarcfromgrapepomace.Todothis,asievetraymustbeinsertedintothekettletoserveasafalsebottomtoholdthesolidsabovethebottomofthepotandpreventburning.
HYBRIDPOTSTILLThistypeofstillisthemostversatileofallthestills.Eachartisanpotstillisnearlymadetoorder,basedonadistiller’sneedsandpreferences.Itscomponentsincludeaspherical-shapedkettle,acondenser,andawidevarietyofoptionalcomponents,suchasasteamjacketoradirectfire,anagitator,ahelmet,oneortwocolumnsofbubble-captrays,adephlegmator,andacatalyzer.
Thespherical-shapedkettleevenlyheatsthesubstrate,particularlyifthereisanagitator.And,ahybridstillthat’ssteamheatedandhasanagitatorcanbeusedtodistillanywash.Evenwashesfulloffruitpulporgrainmashcanbeheatedinthisconfigurationofkettlewithoutanyriskofburningonthebottomofthepot.Also,byconstantlyagitatingthewashthroughoutthedistillationrun,thedistillerycansaveabout20percentontheheatrequiredtoperformthedistillation.
Theabilitytodistilltheentirewash,includingallthesolids,purportedlygivesasuperiorflavortothespiritproduced.Apparently,thefruitmashesformakingschnappsyieldaricher,morecomplexflavoriftheycanbedistilledwithallthefruitpulpinthekettle.Manywhiskeydistillerscontendthesametobetruefordistillinggrainmashes,andalmostallbrandsofAmericanwhiskeyaredistilledwiththegrainsolidsinthestill.
A2-column,16-platehybridstillforvodkaproductionatNOLADistilling,NewOrleans,LA.
Twincolumnsofbubble-captrays.
Thehelmetcomponent(optional)istechnicallyanexpansionchamber,anditisusuallyanearlysphericaldomethatsitsdirectlyontopofthekettle.Asvaporrisesfromthepot,itpassesthroughacomparativelynarrowpassagewayintothelargervolumeofthehelmet.Thisresultsinasuddenreductioninvaporvelocity,whichhelpsholdbackhigher-boiling-pointcompoundswhileallowingdesirablearomaticsandflavorstocontinueupthecolumn.Somedistillerssaythishelmetiskeytoproducingatrulyexcellentspirit.
Fromthehelmet,thevaporrisesintothecolumn.Insomehybrid-potstillconfigurations,thecolumnismounteddirectlyontopofthehelmet.Whenthereisnohelmet,thecolumnismounteddirectlyontopofthekettle.Inotherconfigurations,suchastwocolumns,thecolumnispositionedbesidethepot.Thereasonforthisisthestillwouldstandtoohighformostfacilitiesifthecolumnwerestackedontopofthehelmetorevenontopofthekettle.Withinthecolumnarebubble-captrays.Thevaporrisesupthetubesunderthebubblecapsandbubblesoutfromunderthecapandthroughthestandingliquidoneachtray.Thestandingliquidoverflowsatacertaindepthtothenexttraybelow.Compoundseparationtakesplacebytheredistillationthatoccurswhentheheatfromthevaportransferstothestandingliquid.Thiscauseshigher-boiling-pointcompoundsinthevaportocondenseandlower-boiling-pointcompoundsintheliquidtoevaporate.Theoveralleffectistodrivethelower-boiling-pointcompoundsupthecolumninvaporstateandthehigher-boiling-pointcompoundsdownthecolumninliquidstate.
OPTIONALSTILLCOMPONENTS
Modernhybridstillshaveaninterestingfeaturethatallowstheoperatortobypassanyofthetraystovarytheseparationlevelforthecolumn.Thereareleversonthesideofthecolumnconnectedtoeachtray,andtheoperatorcanpositionthelevertocausethetraytoturnsidewaysandallowthevaporsandliquidtopassby.Ortheoperatorcanpositionthelevertheotherwaytoputthetrayinplacesothatitisfullyengagedinprocessingreflux.
Thedephlegmatorresidesabovethetopbubble-captray.Itisachamberatthetopofthecolumnwithnumerousverticaltubesforthevaportotravelthroughonitswaytothecondenser.Thereisawaterjacketaroundtheverticaltubesthattheoperatorcanfloodwithcoolingwatertoincreasetheamountofreflux.Therateofwaterflowinthedephlegmatorcanbeadjustedtogivegranularcontrolovertheamountofreflux.
TheMoor’scaponthisalembicstillhasadistinctivelookandgivesauniqueflavorprofiletothedistillates.
Havingthecapabilitytodialupordowntherefluxcreatesagreatdealofcontroloverthecompoundmixinthefinishedspirit.Forexample,ifagivenspirithadanexcellentaromaandflavorprofilebutaroughfinishduetoanexcessoffuselalcohol,therefluxcouldbedialedupslightlytoholdbackthefusel.
Thecatalyzerispositionedabovethedephlegmatorandhasanarrayof“sacrificial”copper.Copperisanimportantmaterialinastillbecausethe
“sacrificial”copper.Copperisanimportantmaterialinastillbecausethenoxioussulfidesinthevaporinstantlyreactoutuponcontactwithcopper.However,asthisoccursovertime,thecoppermaterialofthestillbecomescompromised,andexpensivestillcomponentsrequirereplacing.Theideaofthecatalyzeristohaveachamberwithcopperinthevaporpathspecificallydesignedtoreactoutthesulfidesfromthevapor.Overtime,thiscoppererodesfromthereactionwiththesulfides,butitcanbecheaplyreplaced.Ineffect,thecopperinthecatalyzerisbeingsacrificedtosavethecoppermaterialofthestill.
Thecatalyzeralsoreactsoutethylcarbamate(alsocalled“urethane”)whichiscarcinogenic.Ethylcarbamateisgenerallyformedasaresultofureainthefermentationsubstrate.Theamountofnaturalureainafermentationisverylow,butovertheyearsureahasbeenaddedasayeastnutrienttoprovidenitrogenfortheyeast.
Insummary,hybridstillscanbesuperbstillsandarewellknownformakingqualityspirits.
Unfortunately,theirthroughputiscomparativelyslow,anddistilleriesareoftenputinthepositionofhavingtooptforlargerthroughputstills,suchasthecontinuous-runcolumn,tomeetthedemandsoftheirmarkets.
Hybridstill.
COLUMNCONFIGURATIONThenumberofbubble-captraysinthecolumndependsontheintendeduseofthehybridstill,anditisthereforeoptional.Someartisanpotstillsareusedtomakevodkaandhavetwotallcolumnswithatotaloftwentybubble-captrays.Anexcellentconfigurationformakingwhiskey,however,wouldbeastillwithahelmet,acolumnwithfourtrays,adephlegmatorandacatalyzer.
THEBATCH-STILLPROCESSOFDISTILLATION
THEDISTILLATIONprocessisoperationallythesameforallfourbatchstillsdiscussedpreviously:themoonshinestill,thegooseneckstill,theFrenchCharentais,andtheartisanpotstill.Thecontinuois-runcolumnstillhasadifferentregimen,anditisdescribedinthesectionthatfollows.
HEADS,HEARTS,ANDTAILSIndistillingparlance,thecompoundsinthewashthatarenotethanolorwaterarecalledcongeners.Somecongeners,suchasacetaldehyde,methanol,andcertainestersandaldehydes,havelowerboilingpointsthanethanol;certainotheresters,thehigheralcohols(fuselalcohols)andwater,havehigherboilingpointsthanethanol.Thismeansthelower-boiling-pointcongenerscomeoutinhighconcentrationatthebeginningofabatchdistillationrun,andthehigher-boiling-pointonescomeoutinhighconcentrationtowardtheendoftherun,leavingtheethanolandthemostdesirablecompoundsasthemostabundantcomponentsduringthemiddleoftherun.Whendistillationtakesplaceinabatchstill,thedistillatethatcomesoutisdividedintothreefractionscalledheads,hearts,andtails.
THEMAJORSTEPSFROMBARLEYTOBARREL
1.MashTun:Usedtoconvertbarleygrainstarchestosugars.
2.Fermentationofthewash.
3.Strippingofthewashtoremovewater.
4.Collectionof“lowwine”spirits.
5.Redistillingthelowwinetoproducefinalspiritsforbarreling.
6.Barrelingoragingofspirits.
Theheadscontaintheunwantedlower-boiling-pointcongenersthatcomeoutatthebeginningoftherun.
Thetailscontaintheunwantedhigher-boiling-pointcongenersthatcomeoutattheendoftherun.
Theheartsarethedesiredspiritinthemiddle.
Becausewhiskeyisnotdistilledatahigh-separationlevel,itmeansthateachfractionbleedsintotheadjacentfraction.Thatistosay,thereisaconsiderableamountofethanolintheheadsfraction,andtherearelate-headscongenersatthebeginningoftheheartsfraction.Similarly,thereisasignificantamountofearly-tailscongenersattheendofthehearts,andthereisaconsiderableamountofethanolinthetailsfraction.Thewhiskey,comprisedmostlyofethanolandwater,hasadelicatebalanceoflate-headsandearly-tailscongenersthatmakeuptheflavorprofileofthewhiskey.
theflavorprofileofthewhiskey.
Thereareliterallythousandsofthesecongeners,orchemicalflavorcompounds,createdduringthedistillingprocess,allofwhichhavethepotentialofaddingtoorsubtractingfromthedesiredfinalflavorprofileofthedistilledspirit.Partoftheart(asopposedtothescience)ofdistillingisknowingwhenthesecongenersarecomingoutofthestill,andwhentoaddthemtotheheartsoraddthemtothefeints.Inflavor-specificspirits,suchasbrandyandwhiskey,itisdesirabletocarryoverselectedcongenersintothefinishedspirit.However,inflavor-neutralspirits,suchasvodka,thegoalistoremoveasmanycongenersaspossibletoendupwithaspiritthathasaclean,nonspecificpalate.
Becauseboththeheadsandthetailscontainalotofethanolandresidualdesirableflavor,theyaremixedtogetherandsavedforfuturerecovery.Theheadsandtailswhenmixedtogetherarecalledfeints.Feintscanbedistilledseparatelytoproduceanotherwhiskeyrun,ortheycanbemixedinwithafuturespiritrun,wheretheirethanolandflavorsarerecoveredasapartofthatrun.However,eachsubsequentdistillationproducesitsownsetofheads,hearts,andtails,andthefeintsfromthoserunsarealsosavedforfuturerecovery.
TWO-RUNDISTILLATIONWhenwhiskeyismade,itisusuallydoneintwodistillationruns:abeer-strippingrunandaspiritrun.Thebeer-strippingrunisgenerallydoneinalarger,high-volumepotstillcalledabeerstripper.Thebeerstripperisusedtodistillthefermentedwashandconcentratetheethanolandalltheimpuritiesintoadistillateofabout25percentethanol,calledlowwine.
Thespiritrunisdoneinasmallerwhiskeystill,suchasagooseneckorahybridstill,calledaspiritstill.Thespiritstillisusedtodistillthelowwineandrefineitintothefinishedspirit.Therearetwooutputsretainedfromthespiritrun:thefinishedspiritandthefeints.
Forabeer-strippingrun,thefermentedwash,whichistypicallyabout8percentABV,isloadedintothebeerstripper,andthecontentsarebroughttoaboil.Becausethisrunisjustaprimarydistillation,theheads,heartsandtailsarenotseparatedout.Theentireoutputfromthisruniscollectedinasinglelot,andtheruniscontinueduntiltheaggregatepercentalcoholisdownto25percentABV.Thisdistillateisthelowwine,whichistheinputtothespiritrun.
Toproducethefinishedwhiskey,thespiritstillisfilledwiththelowwinefromthebeer-strippingrunandoftenameasureoffeintsfrompreviousspiritruns.Thespiritstillisthenbroughttoaboil.
Itiswiththespiritrunthatthedistilleradjuststheboil-upratetoachieveagentle,slowflowofdistillateandcarefullyseparatesouttheheads,hearts,andtails.
SINGLE-RUNDISTILLATIONSomewhiskeydistilleriesproducetheirwhiskeyinasingledistillation.Theydoaspiritrundirectlyfromthewash.Thehybridstillsdiscussedpreviouslyarewellsuitedtothistypeofwhiskeydistillation,butitislaborintensiveandthedistillermustpayalotofattentiontonumeroussmallerrunsratherthanonelargerrun.
Somepeoplefindthewhiskeyfromasingle-distillationruntobericherandhaveamorenaturalflavor,whileothersfindittobeharshandunrefined.Inthefollowingtext,themorecommondouble-distillationmethodisused.
MAKINGTHECUTS
Probablythemostelusivepartofthedistillingprocessformakingwhiskeyismakingthecutsfromheadstoheartsandthentotails.Makingacutfromonefractiontothenextisthepointwherethedistillerswitchestheoutputsothatitiscollectedinadifferentreceiverthanthepreviousfraction.Attheendofthespiritrun,theheadswillbeinonecontainer,theheartsinanotherandthetailsinathirdone.Thequestionis:whendoyouswitchfromonefractiontothenext?
Experienceddistillersdothisbytaste.Eventhoughtherearemeasurableparameters,suchasstill-headtemperatureandpercentalcoholoftheincomingspiritthatcanbeusedtojudgewhentomakethecuts,tasteandsmellstillremainthemostreliablemethodsfordeterminingthem.
Herearetheempiricalparametersforjudgingthecuts:Thepercentalcoholofthespiritthatisflowingoutofthestill(theincomingspirit)
Thestill-headtemperature
Thesevaryfromonestilltothenext,andtheyvarybasedonthepropertiesofthelowwine(e.g.,percentalcoholandquantity).Itispossibletodevelopaconsistentprocessusingthesamestillandthesamequantityandformulationoflowwine,suchthattheparametersremainthesameforeachrun.Forexample,inaspiritruninahybridstillwithlowwinethatis25percentABV:Begin-cut(thecutfromheadstohearts)isusuallydonewhentheevolvingdistillateisatabout80percentandwhenthestill-headtemperatureisabout180°F(82°C).End-cut(thecutfromheartstotails)isoftendoneatabout65percentandwhenthestill-headtemperatureisabout201°F(94°C).
However,aspiritdistilledfromastraightmaltwashcanoftenbeend-cutaslowas60percentABV.Also,agooseneckstilldistillingtheverysamewashmaybegin-cutat72percentABVandend-cutat59percentABV.Therefore,itisbecauseofthesenuancesthatsmellandtastebecometheonlytrulyreliableindicatorsofwhentomakethecuts.
BEGIN-CUT
Whenmakingthebegin-cut,thetastecharacteristicsthatthedistillerislookingforareasfollows.Whenaspiritruncomestoboilandthefirstdistillatestartsflowingfromthestill,thisisthebeginningoftheheadsfraction.Thedistillercancollectasmallsampleofthedistillateonaspoonorinawineglassandsmellit.Atthisstage,thedistillatewillhavethesickeningsmellofsolvents(suchasnail-polishremoverorpaint-brushcleaner).However,beforelong,thissolventsmelldiminishes,andevenwhenasampleistasted,thesecompoundswillbeveryfaint.Asthesolventcharacterdisappearscompletely,thedistillatewillstarttotakeonahintofwhiskey.Thisflavorwillincreaseuntilitbecomesverypronouncedandhighlyconcentrated.Itiswhenthisflavorisclearlyevident,butisstillincreasinginintensity,thatthedistillercutstotheheartsfraction.
END-CUT
Tomaketheend-cut,thedistillerneedstomonitortheflavorforchangesintaste.Atthebeginningoftheheartsfraction,theintensityofthewhiskeyflavorwillstillbeincreasing,anditwillcontinuetodosountilitbecomesverystrong.However,astheheartscontinue,theintensewhiskeyflavorwillfadeintoasmooth,sweet,pleasantflavorthatwillpersistformostofthehearts.Theflavorwillchangeslightlyastheheartsprogress,butitwillremainsweetandpleasant.Towardtheendofthehearts,theflavorwillstartlosingitssweetness,andatraceofharshbitternesswillbegintoappearintheflavor.Thisharsh,bitterflavoristheonsetofthetails.Althoughasmallamountofthisbitternessisconsideredtocontributetothe“bite”characterofthewhiskey,thedistillershouldcuttothetailsreceiverbeforemuchofitisallowedtoenterthehearts.
Thetailscanbecollecteduntiltheevolvingdistillateisdowntoabout10percentandthestill-headtemperatureisabout206°For208°F(97°Cor98°C).Thereasonfordoingthisistorenderalltheresidualalcoholthatisleftinthestillattheendoftheheartsfraction.Thisalcoholcanthenberecoveredinafuture
theendoftheheartsfraction.Thisalcoholcanthenberecoveredinafuturespiritrun.
Thetailsfractionstartsoutbitterandthebitternessbecomesmoreintenseasthetailscontinue,butasthetailsprogress,thebitternesssubsidesandgiveswaytoasweet-tastingwater.Thissweetwateriscalledbackins.
THECONTINUOUS-RUNPROCESSOFDISTILLATION
Inacontinuous-rundistillationprocess,washisconstantlyenteringthecolumn,soallthreefractions(heads,hearts,andtails)arepresentinthecolumnatalltimes.Thismeanstherecan’tbeadiscretecutwheretheheadsaredrawnoffandtheheartsbegin,orthattheheartsendandthetailsbegin.Allthreefractionsmustbedrawnoffatthesametime.
Acontinuous-runcolumnisahigh-separationfractionatingstillthatseparatesthecompoundsverywell,sooncethestillisequilibratedandfunctioninginitssteadystateofoperation,thedistillerscandeterminewhichfamiliesofcompoundsareateachtray.Forexample,theymightdeterminethatthecompoundscomingoutofthetoptwotraysareheadscompoundsandroutethosetwotraystotheheadsreceiver.Similarly,theymightobservethatthecompoundscomingoutofthenextfourtraysdownarehearts.Thentheymightdeterminethatthefivetraysbelowtheheartstraysareproducingtailsandroutethemtothetailsreceiver.Belowthetailstraysjustwaterwouldbecomingout,andthevalveswouldbeclosed,soitwouldbelefttoflowtothebottomofthecolumnandthentoadrain.
Becausethistypeofstillisnotintermittentinitsoperation,itmustbesetuptoconstantlydrawthethreefractionsofdistillateatalltimes.Althoughthisisdifficulttosetup,itcanproduceverylargequantitiesofspirittwenty-fourhoursadayforalongtime.
Chapter3
WHISKEY
THISchapterintroducestheprocessofdistillingaworld’sworthofwhiskeys,includingNorthAmericanstylesofbourbon,Tennessee,rye,blendedAmerican,corn,andCanadian,andontoScotchandIrishwhiskeysfromEurope.
Ofallofthebasiccategoriesofspirits,whiskeyhasspreadthemostacrosstheworld,achievingageographicandstylisticdiversitythatisunmatchedbyanyothertypeofdistilledspirit.Fromthebasicgrain-baseddistilledspiritsofninth-centuryIreland,ScotlandandnorthernEuropehaveevolvedtheclassicwhiskeysofScotlandandIreland.Thesespirits,inturn,servedasthemodelsfordistillersinthenewlysettledNorthAmericancoloniestoproducewhatcametobethefirstmodernryewhiskeyandtheninrapidsuccession,corn,bourbon,blendedAmericanandCanadianwhiskies.
Allofthesenow-classicstylesofwhiskeyhave,inrecentdecades,servedasthestylisticinspirationformyriadnewwhiskeysthroughouttheworld,fromGermanytoAustraliaandNepalinbetween.Someofthesenewwhiskeysarebasedonexistingstyles.Japanesewhiskeydistillers,forexample,havegenerallytakentheirinspiration(andmalt,andsometimeseventheirwater)fromScotland.Othersareboldlygoingforthinnewdirections,particularlyamongthenewgenerationofAmericancraftdistillers.“ALWAYSCARRYAFLAGONOFWHISKEYINCASEOFSNAKEBITE,ANDFURTHERMORE,ALWAYSCARRYASMALLSNAKE.”W.C.Fields,Americanactorandworld-classdrinker
JosephMagnusCigarBlendBourbonbyJos.A.Magnus&Co.Distillery,Washington,D.C.
THEHISTORYOFBOURBONWHISKEY
INtheearly1700s,acombinationofbadeconomictimesandreligiousunrestagainsttheAnglicanChurchinGreatBritainsetoffawaveofemigrationfromScotlandandIreland.TheseScots,Irish,andso-called“Scotch-Irish”(ProtestantsfromthenorthernIrishcountyofUlster)broughttoNorthAmericatheirreligion,theirdistrustofgovernmentcontrol,andtheirskillatdistillingwhiskey.
Thisrush,augmentedbyGermanimmigrantsofasimilarreligiousandculturalpersuasion,passedthroughtheseaboardcoloniesandsettledinitiallyinPennsylvania,Maryland,andwesternVirginia.Mostlysmallfarmers,theyquicklyadaptedtogrowingryebecauseofitshardinessand,inthewesterncounties,NativeAmericancornbecauseofitshighyields.GrainwasawkwardtoshiptoEastCoastmarketsbecauseofthepoorroads,somanyfarmersturnedtodistillingtheircropsintowhiskey.InPennsylvania,thesewereprimarilyryewhiskeys;farthertothewestandsouthcornwhiskeyspredominated.BytheendoftheAmericanWarofIndependencein1783,thefirstcommercialdistillerieshadbeenestablishedinwhatwasthenthewesternVirginiacountyofKentucky.Fromthestart,theyproducedcorn-basedwhiskeys.
In1791,thecash-strappedfederalgovernmentimposedthefirstfederalexcisetaxondistillers.Thefarmer-distillersofwesternPennsylvaniarespondedviolently.Federaltaxagentswereassaultedandkilledbyangrymobs.Orderwasfinallyrestoredin1794whenthefederalgovernmentsentinanarmyof15,000militiamen,ledbyGeorgeWashington,toputdowntherevolt.Theringleaderswereconvictedandsentencedtobehanged.Butcoolerheadsprevailed,andafterjailtimetheywerepardonedandreleased.ThissituationdidprovokeanewmigrationofsettlersthroughtheCumberlandGapandintothethenwesternfrontierlandsofKentuckyandTennessee.Inthesenewstates,farmersfoundidealcorn-growingcountryandsmoothlimestone-filteredwater,twoofthebasicingredientsofbourbonwhiskey.
Whiskeybarrelsonthemove.
WHISKEYVSWHISKYIsitwhiskeyorwhisky?Well,thatdependsonwhereitismade,moreorless.IfitismadeinScotland,England,Wales,Canada,India,AustraliaorJapan,itiswhisky.IfitismadeinIrelandortheUnitedStatesitiswhiskey,exceptifitisMakersMarkBourbon,inwhichcaseitiswhisky.Elsewhereintheworld,itcanbespelledeitherway,sometimesinthesamecountry(helloNetherlands).SincethisbookiswrittenbyandpublishedintheUnitedStates,wewillusewhiskey(anditspluralwhiskeys)asthedefaultspelling,exceptwhenreferringtoabrandortypeofwhiskeythatspecificallyusesthewhiskyspelling.
ThenamebourboncomesfromacountyineasternKentucky,whichinturnwasnamedfortheBourbonkingsofFrance,whohadaidedtheAmericanrebelsintheRevolutionaryWarintheearlynineteenthcentury.BourbonCountywasacenterofwhiskeyproductionandtransshipping.(Ironically,atthepresenttime,itisa“dry”county.)Thelocalwhiskey,madeprimarilyfromcorn,soongainedareputationforbeingparticularlysmoothbecausethelocaldistillersagedtheirproductsincharredoakcasks.Theadoptionofthe“sourmash”grainconversiontechniquefurtherdistinguishedbourbonfromotherwhiskeystyles.
Bythe1840s,bourbonwasrecognizedandmarketedasadistinctiveAmericanstyleofwhiskey,althoughnotasaregionallyspecificspirit.Bourboncametobe
styleofwhiskey,althoughnotasaregionallyspecificspirit.BourboncametobeproducedinKentucky,Tennessee,Indiana,Illinois,Ohio,Missouri,Pennsylvania,NorthCarolina,andGeorgia,althoughtheonlylegalrequirementforcallingawhiskey“bourbon”isthatitbeproducedintheUnitedStates.Nowadays,bourbonproductionisslowlyexpandingtootherstatesasnewcraft-whiskeydistillerscomeonline.Initially,bourbonwasmadeinpotstills,butasthecenturyprogressed,thenewcolumnstilltechnologywasincreasinglyadopted.Thelastold-linepotstillplantclosedinPennsylvaniain1992,butthetechniquewasrevivedinKentuckyin1995whenthehistoricLabrot&GrahamDistillery,nowknownastheWoodfordReserveDistillery,wasrenovatedandreopenedwithasetofnew,Scottish-builtcopperpotstills.Morerecently,mostofthenewgenerationofcraft-whiskeydistillersusepotstills.
Thelatenineteenthcenturysawtheriseofthetemperancemovement,asocialphenomenondrivenbyapotentcombinationofreligiousandwomen’sgroups.Temperancesocieties,suchastheWomen’sChristianTemperanceUnionandtheAnti-SaloonLeague,operatednationally,buttheywereparticularlyactiveinthesouthernstates.Thenotionoftemperancesoongavewaytoastateddesireforoutrightprohibition,andthroughouttherestofthecenturyanassortmentofstatesandcountiesadoptedprohibitionforvaryinglengthsoftimeanddegreesofseverity.Thismuddleoflegalrestrictionsplayedhavocinthebourbonindustry,becauseitinterferedwiththeproductionandagingofstocksofwhiskey.
LabelforPappyVanWinkle’sFamilyReserveKentuckyStraightBourbonWhiskey.
LabelforHudsonBabyBourbonbyTuthilltownSpirits.
LabelforBlanton’sSingleBarrelKentuckyStraightBourbonWhiskeybyBuffaloTraceDistillery.
WHO’SYOURWHISKEYDADDY?
ThecurrentholygrailofAmericanwhiskeybrandsisthePappyVanWinklelineofbourbonsandryewhiskeys.Yes,therereallyis,orwas,aJulian“Pappy”VanWinkleSr.(hepassedontohiswell-deservedrewardin1965atage89),butthereneverwasanOldRipVanWinkleDistillery,andtheStitzel-WellerDistilleryinShively,Kentucky,thatPappyranclosedin1991.Thebrandhasbeenproducedsince2002attheBuffaloTraceDistilleryunderthesupervisionofJulianVanWinkleIII.Other“sourcedwhiskey”brandshaveevenmoretenuousconnectionstotheirnameddistillery.SincethebeginningofcommercialwhiskeyproductionintheBritishIslesandNorthAmerica,distillerieshavesoldfinishedbulkspiritstoeachothertomakeupforproductionshortfallsordisposeofsurpluses.Thishasbeenanormal,ifnotpubliclydiscussed,practiceinthedistillingindustry.Amorerecentphenomenonhasbeentheriseofbrandswithahistoricalpedegree(PogueBros.forexample)ormarketingconcept(Jefferson’sPresidentialSelect),butnoactualdistillery.ThelargestdistilleryintheUnitedStatesthatfewwhiskeydrinkershaveeverheardofisaformerSeagram’splantinLawrenceburg,IN,nowcalledMGPofIndiana,whichhasnobrandsofitsown,butproducesandpackagesover50brandsofwhiskeyforothercompanies,bothlarge(BulleitRyeandGeorgeDickelRye)andsmall(TempletonRyeandmany“craft”spiritbrands).MaturedspiritsfromdistilleriessuchasMGPallowanumberofactualcraftdistilleriestostartupandbeabletosellagedwhiskeyswhiletheyarewaitingfortheirownself-distilledspiritstoproperlyage.Sometimes,thelabelingofsuchbrandsisatadvagueaboutwheretheproductinsidethebottlecomesfrom,butthealternativeisevenmoretoo-youngcraftwhiskeyonthemarketthantherealreadyis.
TheOhioRiver,asseenfrombalconyofthePoguemansion,gavelifetoKentuckybourbonbyprovidingashippingrouteouttotheMississippiRiveranddowntoNewOrleans,whereitcouldbeshippedinternationally.ThefamilyhousesitsabovethesiteofthehistoricalPogueDistilleryand
nexttothecurrentOldPogueDistillery.
Amidthebarrelsofbourbon,JohnPoguereachesforsomethingontheshelvesattheOldPogueDistilleryinMaysville,KY.
NationalProhibitionin1919hadeffectsonthebourbonindustrybeyondshuttingdownmostofthedistilleries.Drinkingdidnotstop,ofcourse,andtheUnitedStateswassoonawashinillegalalcohol,muchofitofdubiousquality.WhatdidchangewastheAmericantasteinwhiskey.IllicitmoonshineandimportedCanadianwhiskieswerelighterintasteandbodythanbourbonandrye.Thecorrespondingincreaseinpopularityofwhitespiritssuchasginandvodkafurtheralteredthemarketplace.Whenrepealcamein1933,anumberoftheolddistilleriesdidn’treopen,andtheindustrybeganaslowconsolidationthatlastedintotheearly1990s,atwhichtimetherewereonlytendistilleriesinKentuckyandtwoinTennessee.
Inthelasthalfofthe20thcentury,almostallbourbonwasmadeinthestatesofKentucky,Virginia,andIndiana.Butwiththeresurgenceofcraftdistilleries,bourbonisnowbeingmadeinmoststates.Craftproducersareincreasinglylookingtowardheirloomstrainsofcornintheirmashbillstocreateuniqueflavorprofiles,marketingdistinctions,andintroduceasenseofterroir.BloodyButcherredcorn,Hopibluecorn,andOlathecornareafewexamples.Manydistilleriesareworkingwithstateuniversitiesandseedbankstorevive
distilleriesareworkingwithstateuniversitiesandseedbankstorevivecultivationofstrainsthathadfallenoutoffashion.
Labrot&GrahamDistillery,nowknownastheWoodfordReserveDistillery,Versailles,KY.
CaskStrengthBloodyRedCornBourbonbyWoodHatSpirits,NewFlorence,MO,earnedBestofClassWhiskeyintheAmericanDistillingInstitute’s2018InternationalJudgingofCraftSpirits.
LegendaryMasterDistillerJimmyRussel,ofWildTurkey,sharesabellylaughwithChrisMorris,MasterDistilleratWoodfordReserve,duringabourbontastingintheBrownHotel,Louisville,KY,
attheAmericanDistillingInstitute’sAnnualConference.
StraightBourbonWhiskeybyWoodinvilleWhiskeyCo.,Woodinville,WA.
OYOSherry-FinishedBourbonWhiskeybyMiddleWestSpirits,Columbus,OH.
ElkRiderBourbonWhiskeybyHeritageDistillingCo.,GigHarbor,WA.
BourbonRubenesquebyWoodHatSpirits,NewFlorence,MO.
Diablo’sShadowLimitedEditionCaliforniaStraightBourbonWhiskeybySutherlandDistillingCo.,Livermore,CA.
BourbonWhiskeybySugarHouseDistillery,SaltLakeCity,UT.
TENNESSEEWHISKEYTENNESSEEwhiskeyisafirstcousinofbourbon,withavirtuallyidenticalhistory.Thesamesortofpeopleusedthesamesortofgrainsandthesamesortofproductiontechniquestoproduceastyleofwhiskeythat,remarkably,isnoticeablydifferent.TheearlywhiskeydistillersinTennessee,forreasonsthatarelosttohistory,addedafinalsteptotheirproductionprocesswhentheybeganfilteringtheirwhiskeythroughthickbedsofsugar-maplecharcoal.Thisfiltrationremovessomeofthecongeners(flavorelements)inthespiritandcreatesasmooth,mellowpalate.Thetworemainingold-linewhiskeydistillersinthestatecontinuethistradition,whichadistillerattheJackDaniel’sDistilleryoncedescribedasbeing“samechurch,differentpew.”ThenewergenerationofTennesseecraft-whiskeydistilleriesarelessweddedtotraditionandproduceavarietyofwhiskeys,includingbourbonandsinglemalt.
BarrelsattheCorsairDistillery,Nashville,TN.
Nelson'sGreenBrierTennesseeWhiteWhiskeybyNelson'sGreenBrierDistillery,Nashville,TN.
RYEWHISKEY
THEScotch-Irishimmigrantdistillershadsomeexposuretousingryeinwhiskeyproduction,butfortheirGermanimmigrantneighbors,ryehadbeentheprimarygrainusedintheproductionofschnappsandvodkabackinnorthernEurope.Theycontinuedthisdistillingpractice,particularlyinPennsylvaniaandMaryland,whereryewhiskey,withitsdistinctivehard-edged,grainypalate,remainedthedominantwhiskeytypewellintothetwentiethcentury.
RyewhiskeywasmoreadverselyaffectedbyProhibitionthanbourbonwas.Agenerationofconsumersweanedonlight-bodiedandrelativelydelicatewhitespiritsturnedawayfrompungent,full-bodiedstraightryewhiskeys.Productionofryewhiskeyhadvanishedaltogetherfromthemid-Atlanticstatesbythe1980s.AhandfulofmodernryewhiskieswhiskeyssurvivedbybeingmadebybourbondistilleriesinKentuckyandIndiana,wheretheirprimaryusewasforblendingtogiveotherwhiskeysmorecharacterandbackbone.Throughthesedarkyears,asmallbutvocalgroupofryewhiskeyenthusiastscontinuedtochampionit,andtodayboththenationaldistilleriesandanumberofnewcraftdistillersareagainproducingtheirinterpretationsofthisclassicAmericanwhiskeystyle.
DarkNorthernReserveStraightRyeWhiskeybyFremontMishciefDistillery,Seattle,WA
Tom'sFooleryRyeWhiskey,ChagrinFalls,OH.
Nelson'sGreenBrierTennesseeWhiteWhiskeybyNelson'sGreenBrierDistillery,Nashville,TN.
WashingtonRyebyCentralStandardCraftDistillery,Milwaukee,WI.
BLENDEDAMERICANWHISKEYBLENDEDwhiskeysdatefromtheearlynineteenthcenturywhentheinventionofthecolumnstillmadepossibletheproductionofneutralspirits.Distillersblendedoneormorestraightwhiskeys(bourbonandrye)withtheseneutralspiritsinvaryingproportionstocreatetheirownbrandedblend.Thetasteandqualityofthesewhiskeys,thenasnow,variesaccordingtotheratioofstraightwhiskeytoneutralgrainspirit.Earlyblendswerefrequentlyflavoredwitheverythingfromsherrytoplugtobacco.Comparedtostraightwhiskeys,theywereinexpensiveandbland.Modernblendsutilizedozensofdifferentstraightwhiskeystoensureaconsistentflavorprofile.BlendedAmericanwhiskeyshadagreatsalesboostduringandjustafterWorldWarII,whendistillerspromotedthemasawayofstretchingtheirlimitedsupplyofstraightwhiskey.Blendedwhiskeyswereconsideredtobetooblandbybourbonandryedrinkers,andconsumerswithatasteforlighterspiritssoonmigratedovertovodkaandgin.
Blendingwhiskeysisanartformuntoitself,wherewhiskeysfromavarietyofsourcesareblendedtogetherinsubblendsthatarethemselvesblendedintoamasterblend.Dozens,andeven
hundreds,ofwhiskeysmaybeusedtomakeoneblend.
MurrayHillClubSpecialReleaseBlendedBourbonbyJos.A.Magnus&Co.Distillery,Washington,D.C.
CORNWHISKEYCORNwhiskey,anunaged,clearspirit,wasthefirsttrulyAmericanwhiskey,andtheprecursortobourbon.Scotch-Irishfarmersproduceditintheirstillsforfamilyconsumptionortotradeforstoregoods.WhenstateandfederalexcisetaxeswerepermanentlyintroducedduringtheCivilWar,mostoftheproductionofcornwhiskeywentundergroundtobecomemoonshine,whereithasremainedeversince.AmodestamountofcommercialcornwhiskeyisstillproducedandconsumedintheSouth,whileanincreasingnumberofcraft-whiskeydistilleriesarenowexperimentingwiththismoreinterestingalternativetovodka.
TrueBlueCornWhiskey,madefromHopibluecornbyBalconesDistilling,Waco,TX.
TheNotchNantucketIslandSingleMaltWhiskeybyTripleEightDistillery,Nantucket,MA.
SherryWoodAmericanSingleMaltWhiskeybyWestlandDistillery,Seattle,WA.
AmericanCaskStrengthSingle-MaltWhiskeybyMoylan’sBrewingCo.,Novato,CA.
ColkeganSingleMaltWhiskeybySantaFeSpirits,SantaFe,NM.
CANADIANWHISKEYCANADIANwhiskies,aswiththeirAmericancousins,originatedonthefarm.Theseearlywhiskeysweremadeprimarilyfromrye,thoughovertimeCanadiandistillersturnedtocorn,wheat,andothergrains.Canadianscontinuetorefertotheirwhiskeyasrye,eventhoughthemashbillisnowpredominantlyamixofcorn,wheat,andbarley.SeveralofthenewgenerationofCanadiancraftdistillersand,morerecently,nationaldistillersinOntarioandAlbertaare,however,nowmarketingbothall-maltand“true”ryewhiskeys.
NOT-SO-TRIVIALPURSUITThefirstwavesofBritishsettlersinNorthAmericawereathirstylot.ItisrecordedthatthePilgrims
ThefirstwavesofBritishsettlersinNorthAmericawereathirstylot.ItisrecordedthatthePilgrimschosetomakefinallandfallinMassachusetts,eventhoughtheiroriginaldestinationwasVirginia,primarilybecausetheywerealmostoutofbeer.
Thefirstlocallymadealcoholicbeveragewasbeer,althoughthelimitedsupplyofbarleymaltwasfrequentlysupplementedbyeverythingfromsprucetipstopumpkin.Distilledspiritssoonfollowed,withrummadefromimportedCaribbeanmolassesdominatinginthenortherncoloniesandanassortmentoffruitbrandiesintheSouth.
THEHISTORYOFNORTHAMERICANWHISKEY
FlamesshootoutofabarrelasitischarredatCantonCooperage,Lebanon,KY.
TheCodeofFederalRegulations(CFR)stipulatesthatmosttypesofNorthAmericanwhiskeysbeagedinnew,charredoakbarrels.
NORTHAmericanwhiskeysareall-grainspiritsthathavebeenproducedfromamashbillthatusuallymixestogethercorn,rye,wheat,barley,andothergrainsindifferentproportions,andthenisagedforanextendedperiodoftimeinwoodenbarrels.Thesebarrelsmaybeneworused,andcharredoruncharredontheinside,dependingonthetypeofwhiskeybeingmade.
MostnoncraftNorthAmericanwhiskeysaremadeincolumnstills.TheUnitedStatesgovernmentrequiresthatallwhiskeys:Bemadefromagrainmash.Bedistilledat90percentABVorless.
Bereducedtonomorethan62.5percentABV(125°proof)beforebeingagedinoakbarrels(exceptforcornwhiskey,whichdoesnothavetobeagedinwood).
Havethearoma,taste,andcharacteristicsthataregenerallyattributedtowhiskey.
Bebottledatnolessthat40percentABV(80°proof).
WhiskeybarrelsondisplayinanoldtruckoutsidetheJepthaCreedDistillery,Shelbyville,KY.
Farmdistillersareproudofthequalityofgraintheygrowfortheirwhiskeys.
CLASSIFICATIONSOFNORTHAMERICANWHISKEYS
NORTHAMERICANwhiskeysareessentiallyclassifiedbythetypeorvarietyofgrainsinthemashbill,thepercentageorproofofalcoholatwhichtheyaredistilled,andthedurationandmanneroftheiraging.
STYLE DEFINITION HOWEVER…
BourbonWhiskey Mustcontainaminimumof51percentcorn,beproducedintheUnitedStates,bedistilledatlessthan80percentABV(160°proof)and,beagedinnewcharredbarrels.Tobestraightbourbonwhiskey,itmustbeagedforaminimumoftwoyears.
Inpractice,virtuallyallstraightwhiskeysareagedforatleastfouryears.Anybourbon—oranyotherdomesticorimportedwhiskey—thatisagedlessthanfouryearsmustcontainanagestatementonthelabel.
SmallBatchBourbon Bourbonsthatarebottledfromasmallgroupofspeciallyselectedbarrelsthatareblendedtogether.
Thechoiceofbarrelsispurelysubjectiveonthepartofthemasterblender.
SingleBarrelBourbon Bourbonfromonespecificcask.
Thechoiceofthebarrelispurelysubjectiveonthepartofthemasterblender.
TennesseeWhiskey MustbedistilledandagedinTennessee,containaminimumof51percentcorn,bedistilledatlessthan80percentABV(160°proof),befilteredthroughabedofsugar-maplecharcoal,andbeagedforaminimumoftwoyearsinnewcharredbarrels.
Inrecentyears,asthesalesvolumeofTennesseewhiskeyshasincreased,theagingonmanyofthemajorbrandsbeyondtherequiredminimumoftwoyearshasdecreased.Youhavebeenwarned.
RyeWhiskey Mustcontainaminimumof51percentryegrain,bedistilledatlessthan80percentABV(160°proof),andbeagedforaminimumoftwoyearsinnewcharredbarrels.
Ryewhiskey’sdry,peppery,astringentcharacterrequiresatleastfouryearsofagingtosoftenitsotherwisehardedge.
BlendedAmerican Mustcontainatleast20 Ithasageneralwhiskeyflavor
BlendedAmericanWhiskey
Mustcontainatleast20percentstraightwhiskey,withthebalancebeingunagedneutralspiritor,inafewcases,high-prooflightwhiskey.
Ithasageneralwhiskeyflavorprofile(mostcloselyresemblingbourbon),butlacksanydefiningtastecharacteristic.
CornWhiskey Thiscommercialproductmustcontainatleast80percentcorn,bedistilledatlessthan80percentABV(160°proof)andbeagedforaminimumoftwoyearsinneworuseduncharredbarrels.
Cornwhiskeyistheexceptiontotherulethatrequireswhiskeytobeagedtoreachitsfullflavorpotential.Well-madecornwhiskeyhasabright,fruity,almostsweetpalatethatfadeswithtime.
MoonshineWhiskey(akawhitelightning,cornlikker,whitedog)
DistilledfromamixofcornandsugarandagedinMasonjarsandjugs.
ItisagedforthelengthoftimethatittakesthecustomerstogethomeortheDukesofHazzardtomakeadeliveryintheGeneralLee.
CanadianWhisky Madeprimarilyfromcornorwheat,withasupplementofrye,barley,orbarleymalt.TherearenoCanadiangovernmentrequirementsforthepercentagesofgrainsusedinthemashbill.Theyareaged,primarilyinusedoakbarrels,foraminimumofthreeyears,withmostbrandsbeingagedforfourtosixyears.
VirtuallyallCanadianwhiskies(exceptthepot-distilledmaltwhiskiesofGlenorainNovaScotia)areblendedfromdifferentgrainwhiskeysofdifferentages.
BulkCanadianWhiskies Usuallyshippedinbarrelstotheirdestinationcountry,wheretheyarebottled.Thesebulkwhiskeysareusuallybottledat40percentABV(80°proof)andareusuallynomorethanfouryearsold.
Additionalagingstatementsonthelabelsofsomeofthesewhiskeysshouldbetreatedwithdeepskepticism.
BottledinCanadaWhiskeys
Generallyhaveolderwhiskeysintheirblendsandarebottledat43.4percentABV(86.8°proof).
Age,inthiscontext,isstillarelativething.Ten-year-oldCanadianwhiskyisconsideredareally,reallyoldwhiskey.
Astirringpaddlesitsoveramoonshinewash.
BarleygrowinginafieldinWashingtonState.
NORTHAMERICANWHISKEYREGIONSNorthAmerica’svariationsofwhiskeyareasnuancedanddistinctasthecontinent’sregions.Mostareagedinnewwoodbarrels,butbeyondthattherehasbeenmuchexperimentinginrecentyears.
TheWillettDistillery,Bardstown,KY.
StrykerSmokedSingleMaltWhiskeybyAndalusiaWhiskeyCo.,Blanco,TX.
UNITEDSTATES
UNITEDSTATES
KentuckyproducesalltypesofNorthAmericanwhiskeys,exceptforTennesseeandCanadian.Itcurrentlyhasthelargestconcentrationofwhiskeydistilleriesonthecontinent,withnewfacilities,bothnationalandcraft,openingeveryyearoverthepastdecade.ButitmaysooncedethatclaimtoMichigan,Colorado,oroneofthePacificNorthweststatesasnewcraftdistilleriescontinuetoopen.
Tennesseestartedoutasbourboncountry,andwhileitstwomajornationalwhiskeydistilleriesspecializeinthedistinctiveTennesseestyleofwhiskey,anewgenerationofbourboncraftdistillerieshavesprungupintheseconddecadeofthe21stcentury.
OtherstatessuchasIndianaandVirginiastillhavelargedistilleriesthatproducestraightwhiskeys.Inrecentyears,newcraft-whiskeydistillerieshaveopenedthroughouttheUnitedStates,withnoteworthyconcentrationsinNewYork,Colorado,California,andthePacificNorthwest.
CANADA
OntariohasthelargestconcentrationofnationalwhiskeydistilleriesinCanada,withthree.Albertahastwo,andManitoba,QuebecandNovaScotiaeachhaveone,producingmostlyblendedwhiskey.GlenorainNovaScotiaandKittlingRidgeinOntariohaveleadthenewgenerationofCanadiancraftdistillersinproducingavarietyofstraightryeandmaltwhiskeys.
BarrelsofbourbonagingattheWoodfordReserveDistillery.
REGIONALFLAVORS
Therearenowmorethan1,200craftdistilleriesinmost(ifnotall)50statesthatareproducingsuchstandardwhiskeystylesasbourbon,corn,andrye,aswellasmanyexperimentalvariations.OneexampleisWasmund’sSingleMaltWhiskyfromtheCopperFoxDistillery,Virginia.BothitsSperryvilleandWilliamsburgdistilleriesfloormalttheirownbarley,smokingthegraininvariousfruitwoodsforaddedflavorandcomplexity.Thissortofproductiontwist,whichhasitsrootsincraftbrewing,isincreasinglybecomingadistinctivefeatureof
rootsincraftbrewing,isincreasinglybecomingadistinctivefeatureofAmericancraftdistilling.
RickWasmundmaltsbarleybyhandattheCopperFoxDistillery,Sperryville,VA.
Additionally,thereareanumberofdistillingplants,bothlongestablishedandcraftoperations,thatrectify(redistill),process,andbottlespiritsthatwereoriginallydistilledelsewhere.Thesedistilleries,inadditiontosometimesbottlingbourbonandryethathasbeenshippedtotheminbulk,mayalsocreatetheirownblendedwhiskeys.Someofthesewhiskeyscanberelativelyinexpensive“well”brandsthataresoldmainlytotavernsandbarsformakingmixeddrinks.Butothers,particularlyfromcraftdistillersandcraftspiritmarketers,aremarketedashigh-end,high-pricedproducts.Thissellingofbulkspirits(bothagedandunaged)betweendistillersisapracticethatdatesbacktothebeginningofcommercialdistilling,andwhilenotmuchtalkedaboutinpublic,isbothlegalandanacceptedwayofdoingbusinessinthedistilleryindustry.Forexample,thelargestwhiskeydistillerinIndianasellsvirtuallyallofitsbourbonandryewhiskeyproductiontootherwhiskeydistilleriesandmarketers.
AvarietyofproductsfromCopperFoxDistillery,Sperryville,VA.
Washbeingmadeinthemashtun.
Washbeingmadeinthemashtun.
Bubblesriseduringgrainfermentation.
AWHISKEYLEXICON
BONDEDWHISKEYisbourbonfromasingledistillerythatwasproducedinasingle“season”andthenagedforatleastfouryearsinagovernment-supervised“bonded”warehouse,andbottledatthatsamefacilityat100proof(50percentABV).Distillersoriginallypushedforthislaw,passedin1897,toavoidhavingtopaytheexcisetaxuntilthewhiskeywasagedandreadyformarket.Inadaywhenrectifiers,inordertomakeclearspiritstastelikewhiskey,wereliabletoadulteratethemwithanynumberofillicitandsometimespoisonousflavoringagents,“BottleinBond”offeredtheprotectionfortheconsumersandwhiskeybrandsalike.Bondedwhiskeysdriftedintoobscurityforawhile,butarereturningtopopularityasanewgenerationofcraftdistillerstriestodistinguishtheirspiritsfromtheproductsofblendinghouses.
THEMASHisthemixofcrushedgrain(includingsomemaltthatcontainsenzymestobreakdowngrainstarchesintosugars)andhotwaterfromwhichthedistillerdrawsaliquidextractcalledwort.Thewortisfermentedintoasimplebeercalledthewash,whichisthendistilled.
SOURMASHisthefermentationprocessbywhichapercentageofapreviousfermentationisaddedtoanewbatchasa“starter”togetthefermentationgoingandmaintainalevelofconsistencyfrombatchtobatch.Asweetmashmeansthatonlyfreshyeastisaddedtoanewbatchtostartfermentation.
STRAIGHTWHISKEYisunblendedwhiskeythathasbeenagedforatleasttwoyearsandcontainsnoneutralspiritorflavorings.Bourbon,Tennessee,rye,andcornwhiskeyscanallbestraightwhiskeys.Thereisalsoaspirit,simplycalled“straightwhiskey,”thatismadefromamixtureofgrains,noneofwhichaccountsfor51percentofthemashbill.
SCOTCHWHISKY,IRISHWHISKEY,ANDOTHERWHISKEYSOFTHEWORLD
Whiskeyisdefined,initsmostbasicsense,asaspiritthatisdistilledfromgrain.Sometimes,thegrainhasbeenmalted,sometimesnot.Whatdistinguisheswhiskeyfromvodka,gin,aquavit,andothergrain-basedspiritsisthatitisaged,oftenforlongperiodsoftime,inwoodenbarrels(usuallyoak).Thisbarrelagingsoftenstheroughpalateoftherawspirit,addingaromaticandflavoringnuancesalongwiththebaseamberhuethatsetswhiskeysapartfromwhitegrainspirits.
THEHISTORYOFSCOTCHWHISKYThebasisofScotchwhiskyistheheather-flavoredalesmadefrombarleymaltthatthePictsandtheirprehistoricancestorsbrewed.Archeologistshavefoundevidenceofsuchbrewingdatingbacktoatleast2000BCE.Thisale,stillproducedtodaybyatleastoneScottishmicrobrewer,waslowinalcoholandnotverystable.
Startingintheninthcentury,IrishmonksarrivedinScotlandtoChristianizetheirCelticbrethren.Theybroughtalongthefirstprimitivestills,whichtheyhadpickedupduringtheirproselytizingvisitstomainlandEuropeduringtheDarkAges.ThelocalPictssoonfoundthattheycouldcreateastablealcoholicbeveragebydistillingheatherale.Simplestillscametobefoundinmostruralhomesteads,andhomemadewhiskybecameanintegralpartofGaelicculture.
BarrelsagingandForsythstillsatthePenderynWhiskyDistilleryinWales.
AslongasScottishkingsruledthecountryfromEdinburgh,thestatusquoofwhiskyasjustanotherfarmproductwasmoreorlessmaintained.ButtheActofUnionin1707thatcombinedEngland,Wales,andScotlandintotheUnitedKingdomalteredtheScotchwhiskysceneforever.TheLondongovernment
soonleviedexcisetaxesonScottish-madewhisky(whileatthesametimecuttingthetaxesonEnglishgin).Theresultwasapredictableboominillicitdistilling.In1790sEdinburgh,itwasestimatedthatmorethan400illegalstillscompetedwithjusteightlicenseddistilleries.Anumberofpresent-dayScottishdistilleries,particularlyintheHighlands,havetheiroriginsinsuchillicitoperations.
The$187-millionnewMacallanDistilleryinSpeyside.
TheExciseActof1823reducedtaxesonScotchwhiskytolerably.Thisactcoincidedwiththedawnoftheindustrialrevolution,andentrepreneursweresoonbuildingnew,state-of-the-artdistilleries.Thelocalmoonshiners(calledsmugglers)didnotgoquietly.Someofthefirstlicenseddistillersinrurallocationswerethreatenedbytheirillicitpeers.Butintheend,production
locationswerethreatenedbytheirillicitpeers.Butintheend,productionefficienciesandtheruleoflawwonout.Thewhiskythatcamefromthesedistillerieswasmadeexclusivelyfrommaltedbarleythathadbeenkilndriedoverpeatfires.ThesmokefromthesepeatfiresgavethemaltadistinctivetangthatmadetheScottishproductinstantlyidentifiablebywhiskeydrinkersallovertheworld.
ChivasBrothersLtd.TormoreDistillery.
ThenineteenthcenturybroughtarushofchangestotheScotchwhiskyindustry.Theintroductionofcolumnstillsearlyinthe1830sledtothecreationofgrainwhisky,whichinturnledtoblendedScotchwhiskyinthelate1860s.Thesmoothblandnessofthegrainwhiskytoneddowntheassertivesmokycharacterofthemaltwhiskeys.Theresultingblendedwhiskywasmilderandmoreacceptabletoforeignconsumers,particularlytheEnglish,whoturnedtoScotchwhiskyinthe1870swhenaphylloxerainfestation(aninsectpestthatdestroysgrapevines)inthevineyardsofEuropedisruptedsuppliesofcognacandport,twoofthemainstaysofcivilizedliving.Maltwhiskydistillerieswereboughtupbyblendingcompanies,andtheiroutputwasblendedwithgrainwhiskeystocreatethegreatblendedbrandsthathavecometodominatethemarket.Themaltwhiskydistilleriestookabackseattothesebrandsandsoldmostor,insomecases,alloftheirproductiontotheblenders.Therecentpopularrevivalofmaltwhiskeyshasledmostofthedistilleriestocomeoutwithbottlingsoftheirownproducts.
Talisker18-year-oldSingleMaltScotchWhisky.
Bythe1990s,internationalliquorcompaniesownedmostoftheold-linemaltwhiskydistilleries,asituationthatcontinuestothisday.Morerecently,anewgenerationofcraft-whiskeydistillerieshavebegunproductioninGreatBritain,notonlyinScotland,butalsoinEngland.
Laphroaig10-year-oldSingleMaltScotchWhiskyfromtheIslandofIslay.
WHYBLENDEDSCOTCHWHISKYISAGOODTHING,EVENIFYOUPREFERSINGLEMALTSItisatruismofreligionthatconvertsfrequentlybecomethemostzealousofbelievers.Amongfreshlymintedmodern-dayenthusiastsofScotchmaltwhiskeys,itisafrequentlyheardrefrainthatmaltwhiskeysaresuperiortotheblendedarticle,andthatthelatterarejustnotworthbotheringwith.Personaltasteisultimatelysubjective,ofcourse.Butsingle-maltdrinkersshouldraisetheirhatsinsalutewheneveraDewar’sorJohnnieWalkerdeliverytruckdrivesby,becausewithouttheseblendedbrandsmostoftheremainingmaltdistillerieswouldnotexist.BlendedScotchwhiskiesrequireablend
brandsmostoftheremainingmaltdistillerieswouldnotexist.BlendedScotchwhiskiesrequireablendofdozensofdifferentmaltwhiskeystobecombinedwiththegrainwhiskytocreatethedesiredblend.Theindividualpercentagesofeachmaltwhiskymaybesmall,buteachcontributesitsuniquecharactertotheblend.Ablenderwillthusneedtobuyorproducealargeamountofdifferentmaltwhiskeystomaintaintheconsistencyoftheblend.Thus,foramaltwhiskydistillery,thesinglemaltmaygetalloftheglory,buttheblendsultimatelypaythebills.
THEHISTORYOFIRISHWHISKEYTheScotsmostlikelylearnedaboutdistillingfromtheIrish(thoughtheyareloathtoadmitit).TheIrishinturnlearnedaboutit,accordingtotheIrishatleast,frommissionarymonkswhoarrivedinIrelandintheseventhcentury.Theactualdetailsareabitsketchyforthenext700yearsorso,butitdoesseemthatmonksinvariousmonasteriesweredistillingaquavitae(“wateroflife”),primarilyformakingmedicinalcompounds.Thesefirstdistillateswereprobablygrapeorfruitbrandyratherthangrainspirit.Barley-basedwhiskey(thewordderivesfromuiscebeatha,theGaelicinterpretationofaquavitae)firstappearsinthehistoricalrecordinthemid-1500s,whentheTudorkingsbegantoconsolidateEnglishcontrolinIreland.QueenElizabethIwassaidtobefondofitandhadcasksshippedtoLondonregularly.
Theimpositionofanexcisetaxin1661hadthesameeffectasitdidinScotland,withtheimmediatecommencementoftheproductionofpoteen(theIrishversionofmoonshine).Thisdidnot,however,slowthegrowthofthedistillingindustry,andbytheendoftheeighteenthcenturythereweremorethan2,000stillsinoperation.
UnderBritishrule,Irelandwasexport-oriented,andIrishdistillersproducedlargequantitiesofpot-distilledwhiskeyforexportintotheexpandingBritishEmpire(alongwithgrainsandassortedfoodstuffs).Inthelatenineteenthcentury,morethan400brandsofIrishwhiskeywerebeingexportedandsoldintheUnitedStates.
Thishappystateofaffairslastedintotheearlytwentiethcentury,whenthemarketbegantochange.TheIrishpotstilluserswereslowtorespondtotheriseofblendedScotchwhiskywithitscolumn-distilled,smooth-grain-whiskycomponent.WhennationalProhibitionintheUnitedStatesclosedofftheirlargestexportmarket,manyofthesmallerdistilleriesclosed.Theremainingdistilleriesthenfailedtoanticipatethecomingofrepeal(unliketheScotchdistillers)andwerecaughtshortwhenitcame.TheGreatDepression,tradeembargoesbetweenthenewlyindependentIrishRepublicandtheUnitedKingdom,andWorldWarIIcausedfurtherhavocamongthedistillers.
In1966,thethreeremainingdistillingcompaniesintheRepublicofIreland—Powers,Jameson,andCorkDistilleries—mergedintoasinglecompany,IrishDistillersCompany(IDC).In1972,Bushmills,thelastdistilleryinNorthernIreland,joinedIDC.In1975,IDCopenedanewmammothdistilleryatMidleton
Ireland,joinedIDC.In1975,IDCopenedanewmammothdistilleryatMidletonnearCork,andalloftheotherdistilleriesintherepublicwerecloseddownwiththeproductionoftheirbrandsbeingtransferredtoMidleton.Fora14-yearperiod,theMidletonplantandBushmillsinNorthernIrelandweretheonlydistilleriesinIreland.
Thissadstateofaffairsendedin1989,whenapotato-peelethanolplantinDundalkwasconvertedintoawhiskeydistillery.ThenewCooleyDistillerybegantoproducemaltandgrainwhiskeys,withthefirstthree-year-oldbottlingsreleasedin1992.Sincethenavarietyofnewnationalandcraftdistillerieshaveopened,orinthecaseofTullamoreDew,reopened,inIreland,withmanymorebeingplanned.
KeithTench,visitorcentremanager,poseswithdistillerGillianHowellatthePenderynWhiskyDistilleryinWales.
DistillerLanceWintersleadsagroupofotherdistillersonatourofSt.GeorgeSpirits/Hangar1Vodka.Here,theyaremarvelingatthegleamingcolumnstills.
DISTILLINGTIMELINE
SpiritType Fermentation Min.aging Max.aging
BRANDIES
BrandyVS 3weeks 2years 5years
BrandyVSOP 3weeks 4years 15years
BrandyXO 3weeks 6years 20–30years
Grappa 1week 1month 3years
AppleBrandy 3weeks 2years 20years
FruitBrandy 3weeks 4–6months 4years
WHISKEYS
Scotch 1week 3years 30years
Irish 1week 3years 10years
Bourbon 1week 2years 20years
Tennessee 1week 2years 6years
Rye 1week 2years 25years
Corn 4days 2years 2years
Canadian 1week 3years 10years
Moonshine 4days 1week 1week
RUMS
White 3days 2months 2years
Golden 3days 1year 3years
Dark 1week 1year 4years
Añejo/Aged 1week 5years 30years
TEQUILAS
Blanco 1week None 2months
Reposado 1week 3months 9months
Reposado 1week 3months 9months
Añejo/Aged 1week 1year 4years
VODKAS
All 3days None 3months
GINS
Dry 3days None None
Genever 1week 1year 3years
THEHISTORYOFJAPANESEWHISKEYThemodernJapanesewhiskeyindustrycantraceitsbeginningsbacktooneman,MasatakaTaketsura.Thesonofasakebrewer,TaketsurawenttoScotlandin1918andspenttwoyearsstudyingchemistryatGlasgowUniversityandworkingataScotchwhiskydistilleryinRothesintheHighlands.HereturnedtoJapanin1920withaScottishbrideandadeterminationtochangetheJapanesedistillingindustry.
TheJapanesewerethen;astheyarenow,majorconsumersofScotchwhisky.Locallyproducedspirits,however,werelimitedtothefierysorghum-orsweet-potato-basedshochu,andahandfulofdubious“whiskeys”thatwerelittlemorethanneutralspiritscoloredwithcaramel.TaketsuraconvincedtheownersofwhatbecametheSuntoryCompanytobeginproductionofbarleymaltandgrainwhiskeysbasedontheScottishmodel.Thesewhiskeys,someofwhicharemadefromimportedpeat-smokedScottishmalt,becameverysuccessfulintheJapanesemarket.OtherdistilleriesfollowedSuntory’slead,andthesewhiskeys,basedonScotchwhiskymodels(andlaterbourbonwhiskey),soondominatedthemarket.ModernJapanesedistillers(includingtheNikkaWhiskyDistillery,whichwasfoundedbyTaketsurain1934)havefollowedthistrendandnowadaysproduceandmarketafullrangeofmaltandblendedwhiskeys.Sincearound2005,thefirstofanewgenerationofcraftdistillerieshaveenteredthemarket,producingmostlymaltwhiskeys.
KaruizawaNumberOneSingleCaskWhisky(Japan).ThedistilleryislocatedinthefoothillsofMountAsama,anactivevolcano.
YamazakiDistilleryShimamoto,Osaka,Japan12-year-oldSingleMaltWhisky(Japan)
STYLE DEFINITION HOWEVER…
SingleMaltScotchWhisky Maltwhiskythathasbeenproducedatonedistillery.Itmaybeamixofmaltwhiskiesfromdifferentyears.ThebarleymaltforScotchwhiskyisfirstdriedoverfiresthathavebeenstokedwithdriedpeat.Thepeatsmokeaddsadistinctivesmokytang.
Ifitcontainsamixofwhiskiesfromdifferentyears,theagestatementonthebottlelabelgivestheageoftheyoungestspiritinthemix.
VattedMaltScotchWhisky BlendofmaltwhiskiesfromdifferentScottishdistilleries.
Ahiglyunderratedstyle,fornogoodreason.Thetermblendedmaltwhiskymeansthesamething.
ScotchGrainWhisky Madefromwheatorcornwithasmallpercentageofbarleyandbarleymalt.
Rarelybottled,butwell-agedexamplescanbedelicatedrams.
BlendedScotchWhisky Blendofgrainwhiskyandmaltwhisky.
Theratioofmaltwhiskytograinwhiskyintheblendcanvaryconsiderablyamongbrands.Thenumberofmaltwhiskeysinthemaltwhiskycomponentcanrangefromahandfultodozens
IrishPotStillWhiskey Unlesslabeledassuch,Irishwhiskeysareamixofpot-andcolumn-distilledwhiskeys.
Onceuponatime,allIrishwhiskeyswerepot-distilled.ColumnstillswereforScots.
IrishMaltWhiskey Canbepot-distilled,column-distilledoramixtureofboth.
Irishmaltshavemadeawelcomecomebackinrecentyears.
IrishWhiskey Ablendofmaltandgrainwhiskeys.
Theratioofmalttograinwhiskeycanvarywidely,whichisnotnecessarilyreflectedintheprice.
JapaneseMaltWhisky Producedinpotstillsfromlightlypeatedbarleymalt.
BroadlymodeledonScottishHighlandMaltWhiskiesand,insomecases,doneverywellindeed.
JapaneseWhisky Ablendofmaltwhisky(JapaneseorScotch)anddomesticallyproducedgrain
Nottobeconfusedwithshochu,nativeJapanese
domesticallyproducedgrainwhisky.
whisky,whichismadefromrice,sorghum,orbarleyandisaverydifferentearthysortofspirit.
NewZealandSingleMaltWhisky
Pot-distilledmaltwhisky. NewZealandwhiskydistilleriesopenandclosewiththefrequencyofrugbysportsbars,sogoodluckfindingany.
NewZealandBlendedWhisky
Amixofdomesticmaltandgrainwhiskeys.
Occasionally,itmayevenhavesomedomesticallymadewhiskeyinit.
AustralianWhisky AllcurrentlyproducedAustralianwhiskeysarepot-distilledmaltwhiskeys.
TasmaniaisthecenterofthenewgenerationofAustralianwhiskydistilling.
THEHISTORYOFNEWZEALANDANDAUSTRALIANWHISKIESScottishemigrantsbroughttheirwhiskey-makingskillstoNewZealandinthe1840s.Athrivingwhiskeyindustrysoondevelopedandoperateduntil1875,whennew,excessivelyhighexcisetaxesandheavycompetitionfromimportedBritishwhiskeysforcedthelocalcommercialdistilleriestoshutdown.Anew,almostcommercial-sizedmoonshinetradequicklyreplacedthem,asituationthatcontinuestothisday.
In1968anewnationalwhiskeydistilleryopenedinDunedin,whichlasteduntil1997.Itproducedarangeofmaltandgrainwhiskeys,broadlyintheScottishstyle,fromlocallygrowngrain.Eventhebarleymaltiskilnedandsmokedusinglocalpeat.Sincethebeginningofthe21stcentury,amodestnumberofnewcraftwhiskeydistillerieshavebegunproduction.
Australianwhiskeyproductionhasexperiencedasimilarvariedhistory,withassorted19th-centuryproducerspoppingupinthevariousstates,onlytobedrivenoutofbusinessbyBritishimports.Earlyattemptsinthe1990storevivewhiskeyproductionhavebeenfollowedmorerecentlybyanewgenerationofmoresuccessfulcraft-whiskeydistillers,particularlyontheislandofTasmania.
LimeburnersSingleMaltWhisky,CaskStrength,SherryCaskfromtheGreatSouthernDistillingCompanyAlbayAustralia.
Thousandsofbarrelsstackedoutsideacooperage.
THEBASISOFSCOTCHWHISKY,IRISHWHISKEY,JAPANESEWHISKY,TAIWANWHISKY,INDIANANDPAKISTANIWHISKY,NEWZEALANDANDAUSTRALIANWHISKIESAllofthesewhiskeystyles,whileverydifferentintasteandstyle,arebasedonmaltedbarleyasthedominantsourceofflavorandcharacter.
SCOTLAND
TherearetwobasiccategoriesofScotchwhisky:maltwhisky,whichismadeexclusivelyfrommaltedbarleythathasbeendriedoversmokingpeatfires,andgrainwhisky,whichismadefromunmaltedwheatorcorn.Thesewhiskeysareagedinusedwoodenbourbonorsherrybarrelsforaminimumofthreeyears,althoughfivetotenyearsisthegeneralpractice.
IRELAND
TherearetwobasiccategoriesofIrishwhiskey:maltwhiskey,whichismadeexclusivelyfrommaltedbarleythathasbeenkiln-dried,butnotoverpeatfires,andgrainwhiskey,whichismadefromunmaltedwheatorcorn.Thesewhiskeysareagedinusedwoodenbourbonorsherrybarrelsforaminimumofthreeyears,althoughfivetoeightyearsisthenorm.
JAPAN
Japanesewhiskeys,bothmaltandblended,arebroadlybasedonScotchwhiskeys,withsometopbrandsevenbeingmadewithimportedScottishwaterandpeat-smokedbarleymalt.Thepeat-smokecharacterofJapanesewhiskeysisgenerallymoresubtleanddelicatethantheirScottishcounterparts.Japanesewhiskeysmaybeagedinbothnewandused(usuallybourbon)woodenbarrels,whichmaybeeithercharredoruncharred.
TAIWAN
TaiwanwhiskeyshavefollowedtheJapanesemodel,andaremostlyScottish-stylemaltwhiskeys.
INDIAANDPAKISTAN
WhiskeyinIndiahasalong,ifrathermixedhistory,withthepopularityofwhiskeydatingbacktotheBritishRaj.However,mostofwhatissoldaswhiskeyinIndia(Bagpiperisamajorbrand),isactuallymadefromsugarcane—
whiskeyinIndia(Bagpiperisamajorbrand),isactuallymadefromsugarcane—soitistechnicallyrum.Asaresult,itcannotbeexportedtotheEuropeanUnion,theUnitedStatesandothercountriesthathavelawsandregulationsthatspecificallydefinewhiskeyasagrain-basedspirit.Inthepastfewyears,asmallamountoftruemaltwhiskey,broadlyintheScottishstyle,isbeingproduced,primarilyfortheexporttrade.Pakistan,officiallya“dry”Muslimcountry,hasonelargebrewerythatalsoproducesmaltwhiskey—officiallyonlyforsaleonlytonon-Muslims.
NEWZEALANDANDAUSTRALIA
NewZealandandAustralianwhiskeysbothdrawonScottish,Irish,andAmericantraditionsinacheerfullymixedmanner,usingbothpeatedandunpeatedlocally-grownbarleymalttoproducemostlypot-distilledmaltwhiskeysthatareagedinusedbourbonandwinebarrelsforatheoretical,ifnotalwaysabsolute,minimumofsixyearsformaltwhiskey.
THEDISTILLATIONOFSCOTCHWHISKY,IRISHWHISKEY,JAPANESEWHISKY,NEWZEALANDWHISKY,AUSTRALIANWHISKEY,TAIWANWHISKY,ANDEUROPEANUNIONWHISKEYSDouble-andeventriple-distillationisthenormforthisfamilyofbarleymalt–basedwhiskeys.
SCOTLAND
AllScotchmaltwhiskeysaredouble-distilledinpotstills,whereasScotchgrainwhiskeysaremadeincolumnstills.
IRELAND
Irishwhiskeys,bothblendedandmalt,areusuallytripledistilledthroughbothcolumnandpotstills,althoughthereareafewexclusivelypot-distilledbrands.
JAPAN,TAIWAN,INDIA,ANDPAKISTAN
JapanesewhiskeysfollowtheScottishtradition,withmaltwhiskeysbeingdouble-distilledinpotstillsandgrainwhiskeysincolumnstills.
NEWZEALANDANDAUSTRALIA
BothNewZealandandAustralianmaltandgrainwhiskeysaredoubledistilledinpotstills,withsomeTasmaniandistilleriesreportedlyexperimentingwithtripledistillation.
TheSpiritofHvenDistilleryinSwedenexperimentswiththeeffectsofdifferentsstylesofmusicontheagingprocessbypumpingsoundintothebarrelswherespiritsareresting.
Detailoffermentingbarleywashformakingwhiskey.
SCOTCHWHISKY,IRISHWHISKEY,JAPANESEWHISKY,NEWZEALANDANDAUSTRALIANWHISKYREGIONS
SCOTLAND
TheHighlandsconsistoftheportionofScotlandnorthofalinefromDundeeontheNorthSeacoastintheeasttoGreenockontheIrishSeainthewest,includingalloftheislandsoffthemainlandexceptforIslay.Highlandmaltwhiskeyscoverabroadspectrumofstyles.Theyaregenerallyconsideredaromatic,smooth,andmediumbodied,withpalatesthatrangefromlushcomplexitytofloraldelicacy.ThesubregionsoftheHighlandsincludeSpeyside;theNorth,East,andWestHighlands;theOrkneyIsles;andtheWesternIslands(Jura,Mull,andSkye).
TheLowlandsencompasstheentireScottishmainlandsouthoftheHighlandsexcepttheKintyrePeninsulawhereCampbeltownislocated.Lowlandmaltwhiskeysarelightbodied,relativelysweet,anddelicate.
Islayisanislandoffthewestcoast.TraditionalIslaymaltwhiskeysareintenselysmokyandpungentincharacterwithadistinctiveiodineormedicinaltangthatissaidtocomefromseasaltpermeatingthelocalpeatthatisusedtodrythebarleymalt.CampbeltownisaportlocatedonthetipoftheKintyrePeninsulaonthesouthwestcoastthathasitsowndistinctivespicyandsalt-tingedmaltwhiskeys.
IRELAND
Aseriesofcorporateconsolidationsandresultingplantclosureslefttheislandwithonlythreedistilleries,oneinCountyAntrimatthenortherntipofUlster,andtwointheRepublicofIrelandtothesouth.SeveralnewandreviveddistillerieshaverecentlyopenedinDublinandelsewhere,andwillbeginreleasingtheirownself-producedwhiskeysinthemid-2020s.
JAPAN
ThewhiskeydistilleriesofJapanarescatteredthroughoutHonshuandHokkaido,thetwomainnorthernislandsofJapan,withthemaltwhiskeydistillerieslocatedforthemostpartinmountainousregionswheretherearegoodwatersupplies.
Tasmaniansculptor/farmer/distillerPeterBignellcharsusedwinebarrelsforreuseaswhiskeycasksatBellgroveDistillery.
NEWZEALANDANDAUSTRALIA
NewZealand’slastnationalwhiskeydistilleryclosedin1997,althoughitsmaturingwhiskeyscontinuetobereleasedinthemarket.Sincetheturnofthe21stcentury,adozenorsonew-generationcraftdistillerieshaveopenedand,insomecases,havealreadyclosed.Australiahasover100distilleriesinoperation,withatleasthalfofthemproducingwhiskey.ThegreatestconcentrationofcraftwhiskeydistilleriesisintheislandstateofTasmania.
EUROPEANUNION
France,Germany,Austria,Switzerland,theNetherlands,andmostoftheScandinaviancountrieshaveasprinklingofwhiskeydistilleries,mostofthemcraftdistilleriesproducingmaltwhiskeyandtheoccasionalstraightrye.Theonenoteworthynoncraftwhiskey,oratleastwhiskey-likespirit,inthisregionis
noteworthynoncraftwhiskey,oratleastwhiskey-likespirit,inthisregionisKorn,alsoknownasKornbran(meaning“grainbrandy”),acerealgrainspiritmadefromrye,wheat,barley,oroatsinNorthernGermany,someofwhichisagedforamodestperiodoftimeinusedoakbarrels.ItissimilartoAmericancornwhiskey,andisreputedtobepopularwithNorthSeafishermenasaphlegmcutter.Historicalfunfact:OttoVonBismarck’sfatherownedaKorndistillery.
TheEtterDistillerieinZuginSwitzerland.
Oswald'Ossi'WeidenauerfromtheDestillerieWeidenauerinAustria.
WHISKEYCOCKTAILSSAZERACInashortglasscombine
2ounces(60ml)ryewhiskey
1teaspoon(5g)sugar
Stirtoblend,thenadd
DashPeychaud’sbitters
DashAngosturabitters
1/2ounce(15ml)Pernod
2icecubesStirtoblend.Garnishwithlemontwist.
DEPTHCHARGEFillatallglassthree-quartersfullofbeer.Pour11/2ounces(45ml)Canadianwhiskyintoashotglass.Droptheshotglassintotheglassofbeeranddrinkthemtogether.
WHISKEYSOURFillashortglasswithice.Inashaker,combine
11/2ounces(45ml)blendedwhiskey1ounce(30ml)lemonjuice
1tablespoon(15g)sugar
Crushedice(half-full)
Shakeandstrainintotheglass.
MANHATTANInashaker,combine
11/2ounces(45ml)bourbon3/4ounce(23ml)sweetvermouthIce
Stirandstrainintoamartini(cocktail)glassorashortglass.Garnishwithamaraschinocherry.
RUSTYNAILFillashortglasswithicecubes.Add
1ounce(30ml)Scotchwhisky
1/2ounce(15ml)DrambuieliqueurStirandserve.
SazeracRyeWhiskey.
Chapter4
VODKA
ASthestorygoes,in988,theGrandPrinceofKiev(Ukraine)decideditwastimeforhispeopletobeconvertedfromtheirpaganwaystooneofthemonotheisticreligionsthatheldswaytothesouth.FirstcametheJewishrabbis.
Helistenedtotheirarguments,wasimpressed,butultimatelysentthemawayafternotingthatthefollowersofJudaismdidnotcontrolanyland.NextcametheMuslimmullahs.Again,hewasimpressed,bothwiththeirintellectualargumentsandthesuccessofIslamasapoliticalandmilitaryforce.ButwhenhewastoldthatIslamprohibitedalcohol,hewasdismayedandsentthemaway.Finally,cametheChristianpriests,whoinformedhimthatnotonlycouldgoodChristiansdrinkalcohol,butalsothatwinewasrequiredforchurchritualssuchascommunion.ThatwasgoodenoughfortheGrandPrince,andonhiscommandhissubjectsconvertedenmassetoChristianity.
PipesandrectificationcolumnsatSutherlandDistillingCompany,Livermore,CA.
“THERELATIONSHIPBETWEENARUSSIANANDABOTTLEOFVODKAISALMOSTMYSTICAL.”RichardOwen,BritishscientistanddrinkingbuddyofCharlesDarwin
THEHISTORYOFVODKA
Historically,theSlavicpeoplesofthenorthandtheirScandinavianneighborstookalcoholicdrinksveryseriously.Theextremecoldtemperaturesofwinterinhibitedtheshipmentofwinesandbeersbecausetheselow-proofbeveragescouldfreezeduringtransit.UntiltheintroductionofdistillingintoEasternEuropeinthe1400s,strongdrinkwasmadebyfermentingwines,meadsandbeers,freezingthemandthendrawingoffthealcoholicslushfromthefrozenwater.
TheearliestdistilledspiritinEasternEuropewasmadefrommead(honeywine)orbeerandwascalledperevara.Thewordvodka(fromtheRussianwordvoda,meaning“water”)wasoriginallyusedtodescribegraindistillatesthatwereusedformedicinalpurposes.Asdistillingtechniquesimproved,vodka(wodkainPolish)graduallycametobetheacceptedtermforbeveragespirit,regardlessofitsorigin.
THEBASISOFVODKA
Vodkaismadebyfermentingandthendistillingthesimplesugarsfromamashofpalegrainorvegetalmatter,whichcanbepotatoes,molasses,beetsoravariety,ofotherplants.Ryeistheclassicgrainforvodka,andmostofthebestRussianandPolishbrandsaremadeexclusivelyfromaryemash.SwedishandBalticdistillersarepartialtowheatmashes,althoughwheatisalsousedfarthereast.PotatoesarelookeddownonbyRussiandistillers,buttheyareheldinhighesteembysomeoftheirPolishcounterparts.Molassesiswidelyusedforinexpensive,mass-producedbrandsofvodka.Americandistillersusethefullrangeofbaseingredients.
VODKAINRUSSIA
Russiansfirmlybelievethatvodkawascreatedintheirland.Commercialproductionwasestablishedbythefourteenthcentury.In1540,CzarIvantheTerribleestablishedthefirstgovernmentvodkamonopoly.Distillinglicenseswerehandedouttotheboyars(thenobility),allotherdistillerieswerebanned,andmoonshiningbecameendemic.
VodkaproductionbecameanintegralpartofRussiansociety.Landownersoperatedstillsontheirestatesandproducedhigh-qualityvodkasthatwereflavoredwitheverythingfromacornstohorseradishtomint.Theczars
flavoredwitheverythingfromacornstohorseradishtomint.Theczarsmaintainedtestdistilleriesattheircountrypalaces.In1780,ascientistatonesuchdistilleryinventedcharcoalfiltrationtopurifyvodka.
Bytheeighteenthandintothenineteenthcentury,theRussianvodkaindustrywasconsideredtechnologicallyadvanced.NewstillsandproductiontechniquesfromWesternEuropewereeagerlyimportedandutilized.Statefundingandcontrolofvodkaresearchcontinued.Undera1902law,“Moscowvodka,”aclear40percentABVryevodkawithoutaddedflavoringsandsoft“living”(undistilled)water,wasestablishedasthebenchmarkforRussianvodka.
FremontMischiefDistillery.
“AVODKAMARTINI,PLEASE.POLISH,NOTRUSSIAN.SHAKEN,NOTSTIRRED.”JamesBond,Agent007,plungingastakeintotheheartofginsales
TheSovietUnioncontinuedgovernmentcontrolofvodkaproduction.Alldistilleriesbecamegovernmentowned,andwhiletheCommunistParty
apparatchikscontinuedtoenjoyhigh-qualityryevodka,theproletariatmasseshadtomakedowithcheapspirits.
VodkaproductioninthecurrentRussianFederationhasreturnedtothepre-revolutionarypattern.High-qualitybrandsareagainbeingproducedforthenewsocialeliteandforexport,whilethepopularlypricedbrandsarestillbeingconsumed,well,likevoda.
VODKAANDTHECLASSSYSTEMThesocietalattitudetowardcheapspiritsmeantfortheproletariatcouldbesummedupbythecuriousfactthatmass-producedvodkawassoldinliterbottleswithanonscrewcap.Onceyouopenedthebottle,itcouldn’tberesealed.Youhadtodrinkitallinonesession.
VODKAINPOLAND
TheearliestwrittenrecordsofvodkaproductioninPolanddatefromthe1400s,thoughsomePolishhistoriansclaimthatitwasbeingproducedaroundthesoutherncityofKrakowatleastacenturyearlier.Originallyknownasokowita(fromtheLatinaquavita,“wateroflife”),itwasusedforavarietyofpurposesinadditiontobeverages.A1534medicaltextdefinedanaftershavelotionas“vodkaforwashingthechinaftershaving.”Herbal-infusedvodkaswereparticularlypopularaslinimentsfortheachesandpainsoflife.
In1546,KingJanOlbrachtgrantedtherighttodistillandsellspiritstoeveryadultcitizen.ThePolisharistocracy,takingacuefromtheirRussianpeers,soonlobbiedtohavethisprivilegerevokedandreplacedbyaroyaldecreethatreservedtothemtherighttomakevodka.
Commercialvodkadistillerieswerewellestablishedbytheeighteenthcentury.Bythemid-nineteenthcentury,athrivingexporttradehaddeveloped,withPolishvodkas,particularlythoseinfusedwithsmallquantitiesoffruitspirit,beingshippedthroughoutnorthernEuropeandevenintoRussia.
WiththefallofCommunisminthelate1980s,thevodkadistilleriessoonreturnedtoprivateownership.Nowadays,high-qualityPolishvodkasareexportedthroughouttheworld.
VODKAINSWEDEN
VodkaproductioninSweden,whichdatesfromthefifteenthcentury,hasitsoriginsinthelocalgunpowderindustry,wherehigh-proofspirit(originally
calledbrännvin)wasusedasacomponentofblackpowderformuskets.Whendistillerieswerelicensedtoproducebeveragealcohol(primarilyspice-flavoredaquavit,butalsovodka),itwaswiththeunderstandingthatgunpowdermakershadfirstpriorityoverbeverageconsumers.
HomedistillingwaslongapartofSwedishsociety.In1830,thereweremorethan175,000registeredstillsinacountryoffewerthanthreemillionpeople.Thistradition,inamuchdiminishedandillegalform,stillcontinuestothisday.ModernSwedishvodkaisproducedbytheVin&Spritstatemonopoly.
PuttinglabelsoverthecapsoffreshlyfilledbottlesofPrezydentVodkaatPolmosŁódzinŁódz,Poland.
VODKAINTHEUNITEDSTATES
VodkawasfirstimportedintotheUnitedStatesinsignificantquantitiesaroundtheturnofthetwentiethcentury.ItsmarketwasimmigrantsfromEasternEurope.AftertherepealofProhibitionin1933,theHeubleinCompanyboughttherightstotheSmirnoffbrandofvodkafromitsWhiteRussianémigréownersandrelaunchedvodkaintotheU.S.market.SaleslanguisheduntilanenterprisingliquorsalesmaninSouthCarolinastartedpromotingitas“SmirnoffWhiteWhisky—Notaste.Nosmell.”SalesboomedandAmericanvodka,aftermarkingtimeduringWorldWarII,wasonitswaytomarketingsuccess.Thefirstpopularvodka-basedcocktailwasacombinationofvodkaandgingerale
firstpopularvodka-basedcocktailwasacombinationofvodkaandgingeralecalledtheMoscowMule.Itwasmarketedwithitsownspecialcoppermug,examplesofwhichcanstillbefoundonthebackshelvesofliquorcabinetsthroughouttheUnitedStates.
Today,vodkaisthedominantwhitespiritintheUnitedStates,helpedalongbyitsversatilityasamixerandsomeverycleveradvertisingcampaigns.Themostfamousofthesewastheclassicdouble-entendretagline:“Smirnoff—Itleavesyoubreathless.”
ThemajorityofAmericancraftdistillersarevodkaproducers.Theyaredividedbetweenthosewhopurchaseneutralgrainspirit(NGS)fromathird-partysupplierandthenrectifyitintheirownfacility,andarelativehandfulofoperationsthatproduceanddistilltheirownwashtomakevodka.Thisisactuallyaseriouschallengeforcraftdistillerswithpotstills,becauseitisdifficulttoproduceahigh-proofneutralgrainspiritwithoutusingacolumnstill.
Ready-to-drink(RTD)cocktailsarebecomingmorepopularatcraftdistilleries.VodkaMulebyCutwaterSpirits,SanDiego,CA.
Thebest-known,andbest-selling,vodkaisTito’sHandmadeVodkafromthedistilleryofthesamenameinAustin,Texas.Despiteitscarefullycultivatedmarketimageasa“handmade”craftproduct,thebasespiritisNGS(neutralgrainspirit)produced,atvarioustimes,atethanolplantsandnationaldistilleries
intheMidwest.Fortherecord,everyothermajordomesticbrandofvodka,andmanyofthecraftbrands,too,aremadethesameway.
CharcoalfiltrationusedinmakingvodkaatColoradoPureDistilling.
DISTILLATIONOFVODKA
Vodkaisdistilledinthemannerdescribedintheintroductorychapterofthisbook(seehere).Thechoiceofpotorcolumnstillsdoes,however,haveafundamentaleffectonthefinalcharacterofthevodka.Allvodkacomesoutofthestillasaclear,colorlessspirit.Butvodkafromapotstill(thesortusedforcognacandScotchwhisky)willcontainsomeofthedelicatearomatics,congeners,andflavorelementsofthecropfromwhichitwasproduced.Potstills
arerelativelyinefficient,andtheresultingspiritfromthefirstdistillationisusuallyredistilled(rectified)toincreasetheproofofthespirit.Vodkafromamoreefficientcolumnstillisusuallyaneutral,characterlessspirit.
Exceptforafewminorexceptions,vodkaisnotputintowoodencasksoragedforanyextensiveperiodoftime.Itcan,however,beflavoredorcoloredwithawidevarietyoffruits,herbs,andspices.
CLASSIFICATIONSOFVODKA
Therearenouniformclassificationsofvodka.InPoland,vodkasaregradedaccordingtotheirdegreeofpurity:standard(zwykly),premium(wyborowy)anddeluxe(luksusowy).InRussia,vodkathatislabeledosobaya(special)isusuallyasuperior-qualityproductthatcanbeexported,whilekrepkaya(strong)denotesanoverproofvodkaofatleast56percentABV.
IntheUnitedStates,domesticvodkasaredefinedbyU.S.governmentregulationas“neutralspirits,sodistilled,orsotreatedafterdistillationwithcharcoalorothermaterials,astobewithoutdistinctivecharacter,aroma,taste,orcolor.”BecauseAmericanvodkais,bylaw,neutralintaste,thereareonlyverysubtledistinctionsbetweenbrands.Manydrinkersfeelthattheonlyrealwayofdifferentiatingbetweenthemisbyalcoholcontentandprice.
MaineDistilleriesuseslocallysourcedpotatoestomakeitsColdRiverVodka.
ThehybridpotstillatHeritageCompanyinGigHarbor,WA,withathumperandtwocolumnscanmakevodkainonepass.
PrentisOrr,left,andBarryYoung,foundersofPennsylvaniaPureDistillery,standinfrontofachalkboarddiagramthatoutlineshowtheymaketheirBoyd&BlairPotatoVodkafromscratchin
Glenshaw,PA.
VODKAREGIONS
EASTERNEUROPE
Thisisthehomelandofvodkaproduction.Everycountryproducesvodka,andmostalsohavelocal,flavoredspecialties.Russia,Ukraine,andBelarusproducethefullrangeofvodkatypes,andtheyaregenerallyacknowledgedtobetheleadersinvodkaproduction.Onlythebetterbrands,allofwhicharedistilledfromryeandwheat,areexportedtotheWest.
Polandproducesandexportsbothgrain-andpotato-basedvodkas.Mostofthehigh-qualitybrandsareproducedinpotstills.
TheBalticStatesofEstonia,Latvia,andLithuania,alongwithFinland,produceprimarilygrain-basedvodkas,mostlyfromwheat.
TimSmithofOgden’sOwnDistilleryhikesintoOgdenCanyontocollectspringwaterfromitssourceandusesittoreduceFiveWivesVodkatoproof.
WESTERNEUROPE
Thisregionhaslocalbrandsofvodkawherevertherearedistilleries.Thebaseforthesevodkascanvaryfromgrainsinnortherncountries,suchastheUnitedKingdom,Holland,andGermany,tograpesandotherfruitsinthewinemakingregionsofFranceandItaly.Swedenhas,inrecentdecades,developedasubstantialexportmarketforitsstraightandflavoredwheat-basedvodkas.
ZubrówkavodkabyPolmosBialystockaisflavoredwithbuffalograssfromtheBialowiezaforestinPoland.Thevodkahasayellow-greentinge(notshown)fromthegrassinfusion.
LabelforKoenig’sFamousIdahoPotatoVodka,bytheKoenigDistilleryandWinery.
NORTHAMERICA
TheUnitedStatesandCanadaproducevodkasfromalmosteverysubstratethatcanbedistilledincluding,butnotlimitedto,grains,grapes,apples,potatoes,molasses,sweetpotatoes,maplesyrup,milk,andhoney.Stillsthathaverectificationcolumnslargeenoughtoproducevodkaaremoreexpensiveandrefiningaspirittoneutralconsumesmoreenergythanotherspirits,somakingvodkafromscratchiscostly.Manybrandsareproducedbypurchasingneutral
vodkafromscratchiscostly.Manybrandsareproducedbypurchasingneutralspiritsinbulk,wateringtoproofandbottlingthedistillate.Agoodwaytotellifavodkaismadefromscratchistoreadtheoriginstatement,usuallyfoundonthebackofthebottle.Ifthelabelsays“distilledandbottledby…,”thenlegallytheDistilledSpiritsPlant(DSP)hastohavedistilledit.Iftheoriginstatementsays“Producedby…”or“Bottledby…,”thenitisreasonabletoassumethatthevodkawasmadefromneutralspiritpurchasedinbulkfromalargefactorydistillery.
Americanvodkasare,bylaw,neutralspirits,sothedistinctionbetweennonflavoredbrandshastraditionallybeenmoreamatterofpriceandperceptionthantaste.Inordertodistinguishtheirspiritsinthemarket,anumberofcraftdistillersarenowmakingvodkasthatshowalittlemoreoftheresidualaromasandflavorsofthebasematerial.SomegoodexamplesofthisareJacksonHoleStillWorksHighwaterVodka(cornandoats),CaledoniaSpiritsBarrHillVodka(Honey),HarvestSpiritsCoreVodka(apple),andCentralStandardSpiritsWisconsinRyeVodka.
Anumberofflavoredvodkasarealsoproducedbothbythemajordistillersandbyanassortmentofcraftdistillers.
VODKAINUNEXPECTEDPLACES
TheCaribbeanproducesasurprisingamountofvodka,allofitfrommolasses.Mostofitisexportedforblendingandbottlinginothercountries.
Australiaproduces(andconsumes)vastquantitiesofmolasses-basedvodka,butfewareexported.
Asiahasasmatteringoflocalvodkas,withthebestcomingfromJapan.
CoreVodkabyHarvestSpiritsisdistilledfromapples.
ElkRiderWheatVodkabyHeritageDistillingCompanyearnedaGoldMedal,BestofCategory,BestofClass,intheAmericanDistillingInstitute’s10thAnnualJudgingofCraftSpirits,2016.
SagaponackaWheatVodkabySagaponackFarmearnedaDoubleGoldMedalintheAmericanDistillingInstitute’s2018InternationalJudgingofCraftSpirits.
VODKACOCKTAILSSCREWDRIVERFillatallglasswithice.Add
11/2ounces(45ml)vodka
OrangejuicetofillStirandserve.
BLOODYMARYFillashortglasswithice.Add
11/2ounces(45ml)vodka
DashWorcestershiresauce
DashTabascosauce
Dashlemonorlime
TomatojuicetofillStirandgarnishwithcelerysaltontop.
SEXONTHEBEACHFillatallglasswithice.Add
1ounce(30ml)vodka
1ounce(30ml)peachliqueur
11/2ounces(45ml)orangejuice
11/2ounces(45ml)cranberryjuiceStirandserve.
VODKAFLAVORS
Asaneutralspirit,vodkalendsitselftoblendingwithflavorsandfortifyingotherbeverages.Inthenineteenthcentury,high-proof“Russianspirit”washeldinhighesteembysherryproducersinSpain,whoimportedittofortifytheirwines.Neutralspiritsarestillusedtofortifyport,sherry,andothertypesoffortifiedwines,althoughthesourceofalcoholforsuchpurposesthesedaystendstobethevast“winelake”thathasbeencreatedbyEuropeanUnionagriculturalpractices.
Flavoredvodkaswereoriginallyusedtomasktheflavorofthefirstprimitivevodkas,buttheywerelaterconsideredamarkofthedistiller’sskill.TheRussiansandPoles,inparticular,stillmarketdozensofflavors.Someofthebetter-knowntypesare
KUBANSKAYAVodkaflavoredwithaninfusionofdriedlemonandorangepeels.
LIMONNAYALemon-flavoredvodka,usuallywithatouchofsugaradded.
OKHOTNICHYA“Hunter’s”vodkaisflavoredwithamixofginger,cloves,lemonpeel,coffee,anise,andotherherbsandspices.Itisthenblendedwithsugarandatouchofawinesimilartowhiteport.Itisamostunusualvodka.
PERTSOVKAPepper-flavoredvodka,madewithbothblackpeppercornsandredchilipeppersStarka:“Old”vodka,aholdoverfromtheearlycenturiesofvodkaproduction,whichcanbeinfusedwitheverythingfromfruittreeleavestobrandy,port,Malagawine,anddriedfruit.Somebrandsareagedinoakcasks.
ZUBRÓWKAAPolishvodkaflavoredwithbuffalo(ormoreproperly“bison”)grass,anaromaticgrassfavoredbyherdsoftherareEuropeanbison.
Inrecentyears,numerousflavoredvodkashavebeenlaunchedontheworldmarket.Themostsuccessfulofthesehavebeenfruitflavors,suchascurrantandorange.
OfftheHoofScrappleFlavoredVodkabyPaintedStaveDistilling,Smyrna,DE.
THEBIGGEST-SELLINGSPIRITINTHEWORLDTHATYOUHAVENEVERHEARDOF
Inearly1935,duringtheChineseCivilWarbetweentheCommunistRedArmyandNationalistKuomintang(KMT),retreatingRedArmyunitsonwhatbecameknownastheLongMarch,pausedinthecityofMaotaiinthesouth-centralprovinceofGuizhou.TheKMTAirForcehadbeenbombingandstrafingtheRedArmywithoutpauseforweeks,butitsuddenlystoppedthisassaultwhenthetroopsenteredthetown,anddidnotrenewtheattackuntiltheRedArmyhadleftMaotaiandmovedon.Inturn,theCommunistforcesleftthetownuntouched.ThereasonforthisunofficialtrucewasthatthetownofMaotaiwasthehomethedistilleriesmakingmaotai,atypeofspiritcalledbaijiuthatwasheldinhighregardbybothsidesinthecivilwar.Politicsisonething,butthepossibleloss,tobothCommunistsandNationalists,ofwhatmostpeopleinChinaagreedwasthecountry’sfinestspirit,wasinconceivableandunacceptable.
KweichowMoutai,isavarietyofbaijufromChina.
Maotaiisprobablythebestknown(ormoreprobablytheonlyknown)ChinesespiritoutsideofChina.Butitisbynomeanstheonlyvarietyofbaijiu,whichismadeprettymucheverywhereinChinawheregrainisgrown.Insimpleterms,maotaiistobaijiuinChinawhatCognacistobrandyinFrance:themostfamoustypeofawiderangeofspirits.Baijiu,whichliterallymeans“whitealcohol”orliquor,isadistilledspiritmadeprimarilyfromsorghumorwheat
mash,althoughvirtuallyeveryothersortofcultivatedgrainincludingmillet,barley,corn,andevenricecanalsobeutilized.
AlcoholproductioninwhatisnowChinadatesbackfarintoNeolithictimes(atleast7000BC),withavarietyofsimplebeersandfruitwinesbeingproduced.ButunliketheancientMiddleEastandEurope,wherelow-alcoholfermentedgrainbeveragesandwineswereoftenasubstituteforpollutedwater,theChinesealsohadtea,madeusingboiledwaterthatwassafetodrink.Thisalternativesourceofasafe,dailybeverageallowedthegovernmentsoftheearlykingdoms,andlaterthenationaldynasties,tocontrolandtaxalcoholproducts.Alcoholicbeverages,ifnotquitealuxury,wereatleastnotanecessityforhealthyliving.
VINNBaijuismadefromaqufermentationinWilsonville,OR,byanethnicChinesefamily,whosepatriarchfledVietnamwiththe“boatpeople”followingthefallofSouthVietnaminthelate
1970s.TheVINNDistilleryalsomakesvodkaandricewhiskey.
Fermentinggrainbeveragesusuallyfirstrequiresaprocesscalledmashing,bywhichthestarchmoleculesincrushedgrainareconvertedusingenzymesintosimplesugarsthatyeastcanfeedontocreatealcoholandcarbondioxide.Inthe
MiddleEastandEurope,aprocesscalledmalting,inwhichgrain(usuallybarley)wasmoistened,allowedtopartiallysprout,whichactivatednaturalenzymesinthekernelandthendriedtostopthegrowthoftheseed,wasusedtomashrawgrainpriortofermentation.
InChina,startingaroundAD200,Chinesewinemakers(bothfermentedgrainandfruitbeverageswerecollectivelyknownas“wine”)createdtheirowndistinctivecombinationmashingandfermentationprocessusinganinventioncalledqu(pronouncedlikechew).Quisbasicallyaclumpofmashedgrainsthatisstoredinawarm,moist,controlledenvironmentforaperiodoftime,whichencouragesthegrowthofyeastsandvarioustypesofbacteria.Thefinishedquisthenpressedintoabrick-shapedmass,andstoreduntiluse.Crumbledquisthenaddedtoagrainmashtoconvertthestarchesintosugarsandalsofermentthemashtocreatealcohol.Qufromeachproducerisunique,drawingonthelocalmicrofloraandfaunafromthelocalterroirtocreateamoresophisticatedandcomplexfermenteddrinkknownintheheartofChinaashuangjiu.Initsvariousversions,huangjiu,whichhasalookandtastebroadlysimilartodrysherry,wasthedrinkofchoicefortherulingclassforthenextthousandyears,andisstillproducedtothisday.Whatisfrequentlytranslatedas“ricewine”onmenusinChinaisusuallyatypeofhuangjiu.
TheartofdistillingwasintroducedtoChinafromtheIslamicworldduringtheMongolianYuanDynastyinthe13thcentury.Thefirstdistilledspiritswereprobablyfruitbrandies.Butdistillingfermentinggrainmashessoonfollowed,andbaijiuwasborn.Itwaslessexpensivetomakeandhadahigheralcoholcontentthanthearistocratichuangjiu,andthusquicklybecamepopularthroughouttheempire.Virtuallyeverytownandcityhaditsownbaijiudistilleries,mostofthemsmallandcateringtothelocalmarketinamannersimilartomedievalalehousesinEurope.
Modernbaijiuproductiondatesfromtheturnofthe20thcentury.AsthecreakyQingDynastystaggeredtowarditsfinalcollapsein1912,someofthelargerbaijiudistillersbeganlookingatdistillingtechniquesabroad.Butthepoliticalturmoilandforeigninvasionsduringthefirsthalfofthecenturylimitedthetechnicaladvancement,ifnotnecessarilythegrowthofthebaijiudistillingindustry.TheestablishmentofthePeople’sRepublicofChinain1949,anditsfetish-likeobsessionwithindustrialmodernization,didslowlyreachintothebaijiudistillingindustry.Moderndistillerieswerebuilt,particularlyinthepost-Maoera,asprivateenterpriseswereencouragedbythenewmarket-orientedregime.Bytheturnofthe21stcentury,ithasbeenestimatedthattherewere
regime.Bytheturnofthe21stcentury,ithasbeenestimatedthattherewereover25,000baijiudistilleriesinoperation.Thatnumberhasdiminishedsomewhatinrecentyears.ButtherearestillalotofbaijiudistilleriesinChina.
SO,HOWDOESITTASTE?
Well,tonon-Chinesepalates,baijiutendstobeanacquiredtaste.Manyinexpensiveandevensomepricierbrandsofbaijiucanberaw,minimallyagedspirits,withapalatesimilartohigh-proofwhiterumorgrappa.Manybaijiustillsareverysimplealembic-stylepotstillsthatcarryovercongener-heavyheads,hearts,andtailsofthespiritwithminimalrefinement.Therearehigher-gradeversionsthatareagedforupto10yearsormoreandpricedliketop-shelfScotchwhiskeys.
Butbaijiuisnotcategorizedbyage,butratheraroma.Thefourprimarycategoriesarestrongaroma,saucearoma,lightarom,andricearoma.Underthesegeneralheadingstherearemany,manysubcategories,including,phoenixaroma,sesamearoma,medicinearoma,andchiaroma(namedafteratypeofbeancurdsauce),tonamebutafew.
ELSEWHEREINASIA
BaijiuisbynomeanstheonlyspiritendemictoEasternAria.Japanhasshochu,whichismadefrombuckwheat,rice,orbarley;whileKoreahasasimilarspiritcalledsoju.RicespiritsincluderuqudeinVietnamandlaokhaoinThailand,whilearrackfromIndonesiaandtheIndiansubcontinent,madefromthesapofunopenedcoconutflowers,madeitswayto18th-centuryEnglandandHollandasthetraditionalbaseforalcoholicpunch.
AseriesoftubscontainqufermentationsusedinthemakingofbaijuattheVINNDistillery,inWilsonville,OR.
Chapter5
GIN
GINisajuniperberry–flavoredgrainspirit.ThewordisanEnglishshorteningofGenever,theDutchwordforjuniper.Theoriginsofginareabitmurky.Inthelate1580s,ajuniper-flavoredspiritofsomesortwasfoundinHollandbyBritishtroopswhowerefightingagainsttheSpanishintheDutchWarofIndependence.Theygratefullydrankittogivethemwhattheysooncametocall“Dutchcourage”inbattle.TheDutchthemselveswereencouragedbytheirgovernmenttofavorsuchgrainspiritsoverimportedwineandbrandybyalackofexcisetaxesonlocaldrinks.“THEPROPERUNIONOFGINANDVERMOUTHISAGREATANDSUDDENGLORY;ITISONEOFTHEHAPPIESTMARRIAGESONEARTH,ANDONEOFTHESHORTESTLIVED.”BernardDeVoto,Americanessayistanddrinksphilosopher
FarallonGinWorksGinFarallonearnedagoldmedalintheAmericanDistillingInstitute’s2017JudgingofCraftSpirits.
THEHISTORYOFGIN
Inthe1600s,aDr.FranciscusdelaBoëintheuniversitytownofLeidencreatedajuniper-andspice-flavoredmedicinalspiritthathepromotedasadiuretic.Thistonic,calledGenever,soonfoundfavoracrosstheEnglishChannel,firstasamedicine(SamuelPepyswrotein1660ofcuringacaseof“colic”withadoseof“strongwatermadewithjuniper”)andthenasabeverage.
WhentheDutchProtestantWilliamofOrangebecamekingofEnglandin1689,hemovedtodiscouragetheimportationofbrandyfromtheCatholicwinemakingcountriesbysettinghightariffs.Asareplacement,hepromotedtheproductionofgrainspirits(“cornbrandy,”asitwasknownatthetime)byabolishingtaxesandlicensingfeesforthemanufactureofsuchlocalproductsasgin.Historyhasshownthatprohibitionneverworks,butunfetteredproductionofalcoholhasitsproblems,too.Bythe1720s,itwasestimatedthataquarterofthehousesinLondonwereusedfortheproductionorsaleofgin.Massdrunkennessbecameaseriousproblem.ThecartoonistWilliamHogarth’sfamousdepictionofsuchbehaviorinGinLaneshowsasignaboveaginshopthatstates,“Drunkforapenny/Deaddrunkfortwopence/CleanstrawforNothing.”Panickyattemptsbythegovernmenttoprohibitginproduction,suchastheGinActof1736,resultedinmassiveillicitdistillingandthecynicalmarketingof“medicinal”spiritswithsuchfancifulnamesasCuckold’sComfortandMyLady’sEyeWater.
Acombinationofreimposedgovernmentcontrols,thegrowthofhigh-qualitycommercialgindistillers,theincreasingpopularityofimportedrumandageneralfeelingofpublicexhaustiongraduallybroughtthismasshysteriaundercontrol,althoughtheproblemscausedbythecombinationofcheapginandextremepovertyextendedwellintothenineteenthcentury.Fagin’sirritablecommenttoachildinthefilmOliver—“Shutupanddrinkyourgin!”—hadabasisinhistoricalfact.
MichaelLowefoundedNewColumbiaDistillers,theoldestdistilleryinWashington,DC,andmakersGreenHatGin.
GinLanebyWilliamHogarth
WherevertheBritishEmpirewent,English-styleginsfollowed.InBritishcoloniesinNorthAmerica,suchcelebratedAmericansasPaulRevereandGeorgeWashingtonwerenotablyfondofgin,andtheQuakerswerewellknownfortheirhabitofdrinkinggintoddiesafterfunerals.
Themid-nineteenthcenturyusheredinalow-keyrehabilitationofgin’sreputationinEngland.Theharsh,sweetened“OldTom”styleofginoftheearly1700sslowlygavewaytoanew,cleanerstylecalleddrygin.ThisstyleofginbecameidentifiedwiththecityofLondontotheextentthat“Londondry”becameagenerictermforthestyle,regardlessofwhereitwasactually
becameagenerictermforthestyle,regardlessofwhereitwasactuallyproduced.
Genteelmiddle-classladiessippedtheirsloegin(ginflavoredwithsloeberries)whileconsultingMrs.Beeton’sBookofHouseholdManagement(awildlypopularVictoriancrossbetweentheJoyofCookingandMarthaStewartlifestylebooks)forgin-basedmixeddrinkrecipes.TheBritishmilitary,particularlytheofficercorps,becameahotbedofginconsumption.Hundredsofgin-basedmixeddrinkswereinventedandthemasteryoftheirmakingwasconsideredapartofayoungofficer’straining.Thebestknownofthesecocktails,theginandtonic,wascreatedasawayforEnglishmenintropicalcoloniestotaketheirdailydoseofquinine,averybittermedicine,towardoffmalaria.(Moderntonicwaterstillcontainsquinine,thoughasaflavoringratherthanamedicine.)
BattleStandardGinbyKODistilling,Manassas,VA.
BolsBarrelAgedGenverbyLucasBols,Amsterdam,Holland.
THEBASISOFGIN
InHolland,theproductionofGeneverwasquicklyintegratedintothevastDutchtradingsystem.RotterdambecamethecenterofGeneverdistillingasdistilleriesopenedtheretotakeadvantageoftheabundanceofspicesthatwerearrivingfromtheDutchcoloniesintheEastIndies(present-dayIndonesia).Manyoftoday’sleadingDutchGeneverdistillerscantracetheiroriginsbacktothesixteenthandseventeenthcenturies.ExamplesincludesuchfirmsasBols(founded1575)anddeKuyper(1695).
Belgiumdevelopeditsownjuniper-flavoredspirit,calledjenever(withaj),inamannersimilartothatinHolland(whichcontrolledBelgiumforatimeintheearlynineteenthcentury).ThetwoGermaninvasionsofBelgiuminWorldWarsIandIIhadaparticularlyhardeffectonjeneverproducers,astheoccupyingGermansstrippedthedistilleriesoftheircopperstillsandpipingtouseintheproductionofshellcasings.Thepresent-dayremaininghandfulofBelgianjeneverdistillersproduceprimarilyforthelocaldomesticmarket.
BATHTUBGINGinproductionintheUnitedStatesdatesbacktoColonialtimes,whentheDutchpopulationinNewYork(originallyNewAmsterdam)operatedgindistilleriesasearlyasthemid-17thcentury.ButthegreatboosttoAmericanginproductionwastheadventofnationalProhibitionin1920.Moonshiningquicklymovedintofillthegapleftbytheshutdownofcommercialdistilleries.Butthefurtivenatureofillicitdistillingworkedagainsttheproductionofthethendominantwhiskeys,allofwhichrequiredsomeaginginoakcasks.Bootleggerswerenotinapositiontostoreandageillegalwhiskey,andthecaramel-colored,prunejuice–dosedgrainalcoholsubstitutesweregenerallyconsideredtobevile.
Gin,ontheotherhand,requirednoaging,anditwasrelativelyeasytomakebymixingrawalcoholwithjuniperberryextractandotherflavoringsandspicesinalargecontainersuchasabathtub(thustheoriginofthetermbathtubgin).Theseginsweregenerallyofpoorqualityandtaste,afactthatgaverisetothepopularityofcocktails,inwhichthemixersservedtodisguisethetasteofthebasegin.TherepealofProhibitionattheendof1933endedtheproductionofbootleggin,butginremainsapartoftheAmericanbeveragescene.ItwasthedominantwhitespiritintheUnitedStatesuntiltheriseofvodkainthe1960s.Itremainspopular,helpedalongrecentlybytherevivedpopularityofthemartiniandtheriseofcraftdistilleries,wheretheneedforproductsthatcanbeproducedforimmediatesalehasgivenrisetomanyexperimentalbotanicalblendstoflavorcraftgins.
CheekypackagingforAbleforth’sBathtubGinpokesfunatgin’ssketchypastwhileproducinganaward-winningSloeGin,formerlyagenteelladies’drink.
GinmayhaveoriginatedinHollandanddevelopedintoitsmostpopularstyleinEngland,butitsmostenthusiasticmodern-dayconsumersaretobefoundin
Spain,whichhasthehighestpercapitaconsumptionintheworld.ProductionofLondondry–styleginbeganinthe1930s,butseriousconsumptiondidnotbeginuntilthemixofginandcolabecameinexplicablypopularinthe1960s.
GinanditsDutchcousingenever(jeneverinBelgium)arewhitespiritsthatareflavoredwithjuniperberriesandso-calledbotanicals(avariedassortmentofherbsandspices).Thespiritbaseofginisprimarilygrain(usuallywheatorrye),whichresultsinalight-bodiedspirit.Geneverismadeprimarilyfrom“maltwine”(amixtureofmaltedbarley,wheat,corn,andrye),whichproducesafuller-bodiedspiritsimilartomaltwhiskey.AsmallnumberofGeneversinHollandandBelgiumaredistilleddirectlyfromfermentedjuniperberries,whichproducesanintenselyflavoredspirit.
Thechiefflavoringagentinbothginandgeneveristhehighlyaromaticblue-greenberryofthejuniper,alow-slungevergreenbush(genusJuniperus)thatiscommerciallygrowninnorthernItaly,Croatia,theUnitedStates,andCanada.Additionalbotanicalscanincludeanise,angelicaroot,cinnamon,orangepeel,coriander,andcassiabark.Allginandgenevermakershavetheirownsecretcombinationofbotanicals,thenumberofwhichcanrangefromasfewasfourtoasmanyasfifteen.
GinbyCorsairArtisanearnedaBestofCategoryGoldmedalattheAmericanDistillingInstitute’s9thAnnualJudgingofCraftAmericanSpirits.
CaledoniaSpiritsBarrHillGinearnedagoldmedal,bestofcategoryandbestofclassintheAmericanDistillingInstitute’s2017JudgingofCraftSpirits.
THEDISTILLATIONOFGIN
Thebasespiritformostnon-geneverstyleginisinitiallydistilledinefficientcolumnstills.Theresultingspiritishighproof,light-bodied,andclean,withaminimalamountofcongeners(flavorcompounds)andflavoringagents.Geneverisdistilledinless-efficientpotstills,whichresultsinalower-proof,moreflavorfulspirit.
Low-quality“compound”ginsaremadebysimplymixingthebasespiritwithjuniperandbotanicalextracts.Mass-marketginsareproducedbysoaking
juniperandbotanicalextracts.Mass-marketginsareproducedbysoakingjuniperberriesandbotanicalsinthebasespiritandthenredistillingthemixture.
Top-qualityginandgeneverareflavoredinauniquemanner.Afteroneormoredistillations,thebasespiritisredistilledonelasttime.Duringthisfinaldistillation,thealcoholvaporwaftsthroughachamberinwhichthedriedjuniperberriesandbotanicalsaresuspended.Thevaporgentlyextractsaromaticandflavoringoilsandcompoundsfromtheberriesandspicesasittravelsthroughthechamberonitswaytothecondenser.Theresultingflavoredspirithasanoticeabledegreeofcomplexity.
MartinRyanDistillingCo.,Portland,OR,keepssamplesofeverybatchofAriaGinthedistilleryhasreleased.Theyreferbacktothesebottleswhenmakinganewbatch.
Wild-foragedbotanicalsfromtheCaliforniacoastalmountainsaredriedinpreparationformakingginatVenturaSpirits.
No.209ChardonnayBarrelReserveGin.
TwoJamesDistilleryBarrelReserveOldCockneyGin.
STYLE DEFINITION HOWEVER…
LondonDryGin ThedominantEnglishstyleofginintheUnitedKingdom,formerBritishcolonies,theUnitedStatesandSpain.
Itneednotbetruly“dry”anditlendsitselfwelltomixing.
PlymouthGin Relativelyfull-bodied(comparedtoLondondrygin).Itisclear,slightlyfruity,andveryaromatic.
OriginallythelocalginstyleofPlymouth,England,modernPlymouthginismadeonlybyonedistilleryinPlymouth,Coates&Co.,whichalsocontrolstherightstothenamePlymouthGin.
OldTomGin Thelastremainingexampleoftheoriginal,lightlysweetenedginsthatwerepopularineighteenth-centuryEngland.
LimitedquantitiesofOldTom–styleginarestillmadebyafewBritishdistillersandseveralAmericancraftdistillers,butitis,atbest,acuriosityitem.
GeneverorHollands
TheDutchstyleofgin,distilledfromamaltedgrainmashsimilartothatusedforwhiskey.Oude(old)Geneveristheoriginalstyle.Itisstraw-hued,relativelysweet,andaromatic.Jonge(young)Geneverhasadrierpalateandlighterbody.SomeGeneverisagedforonetothreeyearsinoakcasks.GenevertendstobelowerproofthanEnglishgin(72to80proofistypical).Theyareusuallyservedstraightupandchilled.
Theclassicaccompanimenttoashotofgeneverisadriedgreenherring.Geneveristraditionallysoldinacylindricalstonewarecrock.Genever-styleginsareproducedinHolland,Belgium,Germany,andtheUnitedStates.
DON’TCALLITBARRELAGED!
Withthe2008releaseofCitadelleReserveGinfromFrance,andRansomOldTomGinfromOregon,theginflavorspectrumswunginanewdirection—barrel-agedgins.Afterreadinghistoricalaccountsofshippinggininpastcenturiesusingwoodencasks,theseproducersbegantoexperimentwiththeeffectsthatexposuretowoodwouldhaveongin.Thecocktailcultureswallowedthesespiritsupwithglee,andsoontherushwason.Craftdistilleries—manyofwhomweremakinggintohavecashflowwhilewaitingforwhiskeytoage—sawalineextensionintheselightlyagedspirits.Theflavorsrangeanywherefromaclassicgintoajuniper-flavoredwhiskey,dependingonwhatkindofcaskwasusedandhowlongthespiritrestedinit.
wasusedandhowlongthespiritrestedinit.
Therewasonlyonesmallproblem:Thereareregulationsprohibitingputtingthewords“barrelaged”onbeveragealcohollabels.Afterapprovingafewbarrel-agedgins,theU.S.governmentrevokedsomeoftheselabelsanddeclinedfurtherapplications.Thisdidnotstoptheproductsfromcoming,distillersjusthadtothinkofanotherterm.Thereisanabundanceofveryinterestingginsthatarenowtermed;oak-finished,oak-rested,barrel-rested,reserve,cask-finished,antique,…etc.Allofthesetermsmeanonething:thattheginwasbarrelaged.
HernöOldTomGinearnedagoldmedalandbestofcategoryintheAmericanDistillingInstitute’s2017JudgingofCraftSpirits.
2017JudgingofCraftSpirits.
TadSeestedtofRansomSpiritsreleasedRansomOldTomGin,whichwasthefirstoftheUS-madebarrel-agedgins,settingoftrendthathasreverberatedthroughthedistilledspiritscommunity.
THECOLORFULORIGINSOFOLDTOMGIN
ThenameofOldTomGincomesfromwhatmaybethefirstexampleofabeveragevendingmachine.Inthe1700s,somepubsinEnglandhadawoodenplaqueshapedlikeablackcat(an“OldTom”)mountedontheoutsidewall.Thirstypassersbywoulddepositapennyinthecat’smouthandplacetheirlipsaroundasmalltubebetweenthecat’spaws.Thebartenderinsidewouldthenpourashotofginthroughthetubeandintothecustomer’swaitingmouth.
throughthetubeandintothecustomer’swaitingmouth.
GINREGIONS
EUROPE
TheUnitedKingdomproducesmostlydrygin,primarilyfromcolumnstills.Britishginstendtobehighproof(90°proofor45percentABV)andcitrus-accentedfromtheuseofdriedlemonandSevilleorangepeelsinthemixofbotanicals.Britishginsareusuallycombinedintomixeddrinks.
HollandandBelgiumproducegenever,mostlyfrompotstills.GeneversaredistilledatlowerprooflevelsthanEnglishginsandaregenerallyfullerinbody.Manyoftheseginsareagedforonetothreeyearsinoakcasks.Somegeneverproducersnowmarketfruit-flavoredgenever,thebestknownbeingblackcurrant.DutchandBelgiangeneverareusuallychilledandservedneat.
Germanyproducesagenever-stylegincalledDornkaatintheNorthSeacoastregionofFrisia.ThisspiritislighterinbodyandmoredelicateinflavorthanbothDutchgeneverandEnglishdrygin.Germanginisusuallyservedstraightupandcold.
Spainproducesasubstantialamountofgin,allofitintheLondondrystylefromcolumnstills.Mostofitissoldformixingwithcola.
BoomsmaOudeFineOldGenever,Leeuwarden,Holland.
ElkRiderCrispGinbyHeritageDistillingCompanyearnedaGoldMedal,BestofCategory,BestofClass,intheAmericanDistillingInstitute’s10thAnnualJudgingofCraftSpirits,2016.
NORTHAMERICA
TheUnitedStatesistheworld’slargestginmarket.Londondryginaccountsforthebulkofdomesticginproduction,withmostofitproducedincolumnstills,althoughcraft-distilleryginisusuallymadeusinghybridpotstillswithcolumns.Americandryginsfromthenationaldistillerstendtobelowerproof(80°proofor40percentABV)andlessflavorfulthantheirEnglishcounterparts.ThisruleapplieseventobrandssuchasGordon’sandGilbey’s,whichoriginatedinEngland.Thebest-sellingginintheUnitedStates,Seagram’sExtraDry,was
England.Thebest-sellingginintheUnitedStates,Seagram’sExtraDry,wasoriginallyadryginthatwasagedforthreemonthsinusedwhiskeybarrelstogiveitapalestrawhue,andadistinctivesmoothpalatethathadahardcorefanbase.Thecolorremains,butinrecentyearsthethreemonthaginghasbeenquietlydiscontinued.
Americancraftdistillers,inanapproachanalogoustotheircraft-brewerycounterpartswithIndiaPaleAle,areincreasinglyexperimentingwithmoreexoticandassertivebotanicalsastheirflavoringagents.
Americancraftdistillerieshavetakentogininamajorway,withsuchnoteworthyexamplesasDistiller’sGin#6fromNorthShoreDistilleryinLakeBluff,Illinois,andRehorstPremiumMilwaukeeGinfromtheGreatLakesDistilleryinMilwaukee,Wisconsin.
BackbaratJerseySpiritsDistillery,Fairfield,NJ.
GINCOCKTAILS
CLASSICMARTINIInashaker,combine
2ounces(60ml)gin
Dashwhitevermouth
IcetofillShakeandstrainandintoamartiniglassorashortglass.Garnishwithanolive.
TOMCOLLINSInatallglass,combine
2ounces(60ml)gin
1ounce(30ml)lemonjuice
1tablespoon(15g)sugarStir,andthenfilltheglasswithice.Fillwithclubsoda.
GINANDTONICFillatallglasswithice.Add
11/2ounces(45ml)gin
TonicwatertofillGarnishwithalimeslice.
THEMARTINIANDTHEMEANINGOFLIFE
Thebestknownofhundredsofgin-basedmixeddrinksistheginandwhitevermouthcombinationcalledthemartini.Asisusuallythecasewithmostpopularmixeddrinks,theoriginsofthemartiniaredisputed.Oneschoolofthoughtholdsthatitevolvedfromthelate-nineteenth-centurymartinezcocktail,arathercloyingmixtureofOldTom–styleginandsweetvermouth.AdissentingsectholdsthatitwascreatedinthebaroftheKnickerbockerHotelinNewYorkCityintheearlytwentiethcentury.Theratioofgintovermouthstartedoutatabouttwotoone,andithasbeengettingdriereversince.ThefamedBritishstatesmanWinstonChurchill,whodevotedagreatdealofthoughtandtimetodrinking,wasoftheopinionthatpassingthecorkfromthevermouthbottleovertheglassofginwassufficient.
Chapter6
BRANDYANDEAUDEVIE
THEwordbrandycomesfromtheDutchwordbrandewijn(burntwine),whichishowthestraightforwardDutchtraderswhointroducedittonorthernEuropeinthesixteenthcenturydescribedwinethathadbeen“burnt”orboiledtodistillit.
TheoriginsofbrandycanbetracedbacktothegrowingMuslimMediterraneanstatesintheseventhandeighthcenturies.Alchemistsintheregionexperimentedwithdistillinggrapesandotherfruitstomakemedicinalspirits.Theirknowledgeandtechniquessoonspreadbeyondthebordersoftheterritory,withgrapebrandyproductionappearinginSpainandprobablyIreland(viamissionarymonks)bytheendoftheeighthcentury.
TheFrench-styleCharentaisstillatMcMenaminsCorneliusPassRoadhouse(CPR)Distillery.
Pear-in-bottlebrandy.
TYPESOFBRANDY
Brandy,initsbroadestdefinition,isaspiritmadefromfruitjuiceorfruitpulpandskin.Morespecifically,itisbrokendownintothreebasicgroupings.
GRAPEBRANDYisbrandydistilledfromfermentedgrapejuiceorcrushed,butnotpressed,grapepulpandskin.Thisspiritisagedinwoodencasks(usuallyoak),whichcolorsit,mellowsoutthepalate,andaddsaromasandflavors.
Abottleofbrandydistilledfrom100percentViognierwinebyGermain-Robin.
POMACEBRANDY(ItaliangrappaandFrenchmarcarethebestknownexamples)ismadefromthepressedgrapepulp,skinsandstemsthatremainafterthegrapesarecrushedandpressedtoextractmostofthejuiceforwine.Pomacebrandies,whichareusuallyminimallyagedandseldomseewood,areanacquiredtaste.Theytendtoberatherraw,althoughtheycanofferafresh,fruityaromaofthetypeofgrapeused,acharacteristicthatislostinregularoak-agedbrandy.
brandy.
FRUITBRANDYisthedefaulttermforallbrandiesthataremadefromfermentingfruitotherthangrapes.(Itshouldnotbeconfusedwithfruit-flavoredbrandy,whichisgrapebrandythathasbeenflavoredwiththeextractofanotherfruit.)
IslandOrchardEaudeVieAppleBrandybyOrcasIslandDistilleryearnedaGoldMedal,BestofCategory,intheAmericanDistillingInstitute’s10thAnnualJudgingofCraftSpirits,2016.
Fruitbrandies,exceptthosemadefromberries,aregenerallydistilledfromfruitwines.Berriestendtolackenoughsugartomakeawinewithsufficientalcoholforproperdistillation,andthusaresoaked(macerated)inahigh-proofspirittoextracttheirflavorandaroma.Theextractisthendistilledonceatalowproof.Calvados,theapplebrandyfromtheNormandyregionofnorthwesternFrance,isprobablythebestknowntypeoffruitbrandy.Eaudevie(“wateroflife”)isacolorlessfruitbrandy,particularlyfromtheAlsaceregionofFranceandfromCalifornia.
PearBrandybyNewDealDistilleryearnedaGoldMedalintheAmericanDistillingInstitute’s2018InternationalJudgingofCraftSpirits.
“NOSIR,CLARETISTHELIQUORFORBOYS;PORTFORMEN;BUTHEWHOASPIRESTOBEAHEROMUSTDRINKBRANDY.”SamuelJohnson,eighteenth-centuryBritishwriterwholovedbrandyandhatedwhiskey
BRANDIESBYREGION
FRANCEFrenchbrandyisthecatchalldesignationforbrandyproducedfromgrapesgrowninotherregions.Thesebrandiesareusuallydistilledincolumnstillsandagedinoakcasksforvaryingperiodsoftime.Theyarefrequentlyblendedwithwine,grapejuice,oakflavorings,andotherbrandies,includingcognac,tosmoothouttheroughedges.Cognac-likequalitydesignationssuchasVSOPandNapoleonareoftenused(seehere),buttheyhavenolegalstanding.
COGNAC
Cognacisthebest-knowntypeofbrandyintheworld,abenchmarkbywhichmostotherbrandiesarejudged.TheCognacregionislocatedonthesouth-centralcoastofFrance,justnorthofBordeaux,inthedepartmentsofCharenteandCharente-Maritime.Theregionisfurthersubdividedintosixgrowingzones:GrandeChampagne,PetiteChampagne,BoisOrdinaries,Borderies,FinsBois,andBonsBois.ThefirsttwooftheseregionsproducethebestCognacandwillfrequentlybesodesignatedonbottlelabels.TheprimarygrapesusedinmakingCognacaretheUgniBlanc,FolleBlanche,andColombard.Thewinesmadefromthesegrapesarethin,tartandlowinalcohol,whicharepoorcharacteristicsfortablewinesbutperfectformakingbrandy.
Cognacisdouble-distilledinspeciallydesignedpotstillsandthenagedincasksmadefromLimousinorTroncaisoak.AllCognacsstartoutinnewoaktomellowthefieryspiritandgivethemcolor.Batcheschosenforlong-termagingare,afterafewyears,transferredtoused,orseasoned,casksthatimpartlessoftheoakflavornoteswhilethebrandymatures.
NearlyallCognacsareablendofbrandiesfromdifferentvintagesandfrequentlydifferentgrowingzones.Eventhosefromsinglevineyardsordistillerieshaveamixofbrandiesfromdifferentcasks.Aswithchampagne,theproductsoflocalvineyardsaresoldtoCognachouses,eachofwhichstoresandagesCognacsfromdifferentsuppliers.Thesuppliersthenemploymasterblenderstocreateandmaintaincontinuityinthehouseblendsdrawnfromdisparatesources.
ThealambiccharentaisisthemostpopularstyleofstillforproducingCognac.
INDUSTRYSTANDARDSFORCOGNAC
BecausetherearenoageorvintagestatementsonmostCognacs,theindustryhasadoptedsomegenerallyacceptedtermstodifferentiateCognacs.Itisimportanttonotethatthesetermshavenolegalstatus,andeachCognacshipperusesthemaccordingtohisorherowncriteria.
VS/VSP/ThreeStar:(VS:verysuperior;VSP:verysuperiorpale)Aminimumoftwoyearsaginginacask,althoughtheindustryaverageisfourtofiveyears
VSOP:(verysuperioroldpale)Aminimumoffouryears’caskagingfortheyoungestCognacintheblend,withtheindustryaveragebetweentenandfifteenyears
XO/Napoleon:(XO:extraold)Aminimumofsixyears’agingfortheyoungestCognacintheblend,withtheaverageagerunningtwentyyearsorolder.AllCognachousesmaintaininventoriesofoldvintageCognacstouseinblendingthesetop-of-the-linebrands.TheoldestCognacsareremovedfromtheircasksintimeandstoredinglassdemijohns(largejugs)topreventfurtherlossfromevaporationandtolimitexcessivelywoodyflavornotes.
ParkCognacSingleVineyardBorderiesearnedaGoldMedalattheAmericanDistillingInstitute’s10thAnnualJudgingofCraftSpirits.
ChateaudeTriacSingleVineyardFinsBois,Cognac.
AlexandreGabriel,presidentandownerofMaisonFerrand,evaluatesaflightofspiritsattheAmericanDistillingInstitute’sInternationalJudgingofCraftSpirits.
TiffonCognacXObyCognacTiffonearnedaGoldMedalintheAmericanDistillingIntitute’s2018JudgingofCraftSpirits.
HAVESTILL,WILLTRAVEL
Untilthe1970s,portablealambicArmagnacaismountedontwo-wheelcartswerehauledamongsmallvineyardsinArmagnacbyitinerantdistillerscalledbouilleursdecru.Thesetravelingstills,alas,havemostlygivenwaytolarger,fixedin-placesetupsoperatedbyfarmercooperativesandindividualoperators.
AdistillerstokesawoodfireunderthecolumnofanalambicArmagnacaisattheChateauduTariquet.
ArmagnacCastaredeReservedelaFamille,earnedaDoubleGoldMedalintheAmericanDistillingIntitute’s2018InternationalJudgingofCraftSpirits.
ChateaudeManibanV.S.O.P.BasArmagnac.
ChristianDrouin,whoproducessomeofthefinestCalvados,standsbesideaportablestillbuiltin1946thatisnowpermanentlystationedinfrontofthepressroomatDomaineCoeurdeLion.Itis
normallyusedfromFebruarytoJune.Asecondstillnowoperatesinsidethepressroom.
ARMAGNAC
ArmagnacistheoldesttypeofbrandyinFrance,withdocumentedreferencestodistillationdatingbacktotheearlyfifteenthcentury.TheArmagnacregionislocatedintheheartoftheancientprovinceofGasconyinthesouthwestcornerofFrance.AswithCognac,thereareregionalgrowingzones:Bas-Armagnac,HautArmagnac,andTenareze.TheprimarygrapesusedinmakingArmagnacarealsotheUgniBlanc,FolleBlanche,andColombard.ButdistillationtakesplaceintheuniquealambicArmagnacais,atypeofcolumnstillthatisevenlessefficientthanatypicalCognacpotstill.Theresultingbrandyhasarustic,assertivecharacterandaromathatrequiresadditionalcaskagingtomellowoutanddistinguishitfromCognac.ThebestArmagnacisagedincasksmadefromthelocalMonlezunoak.Inrecentyears,LimousinandTroncaisoakcaskshavebeenaddedtothemixofcasksassuitableMonlezunoakbecomeshardertofind.
MostArmagnacsareblends,butunlikeCognac,singlevintagesandsingle-vineyardbottlingscanbefound.ThecategoriesofArmagnacaregenerallythesameasthoseofcognac(VS,VSOP,XO,andsoon;seesidebarshownhere).BlendedArmagnacsfrequentlyhaveagreaterpercentageofoldervintagesintheirmixthancomparableCognacs,makingthemabettervalueforthediscerningbuyer.
AvarietyofArmagnacbottles.
ChateaudeLaubadeExtraSingleEstateBasArmagnac,750ml,earnedaDoubleGoldMedal,BestofCategory,BestofClass,intheAmericanDistillingInstitute’s10thAnnualJudgingofCraft
Spirits,2016.
BRANDY’SSEASONALNATURE
Brandy,likerumandtequila,isanagriculturalspirit.Unlikegrainspiritssuchaswhiskey,vodka,andgin,whicharemadethroughouttheyearfromgrainthatcanbeharvestedandstored,brandyisdependentontheseasons,theripeningofthebasefruitandtheproductionofthewinefromwhichitismade.Typesofbrandies,originallyatleast,tendedtobelocationspecific.(Cognac,forexample,isatownandregioninFrancethatgaveitsnametothelocalbrandy.)Importantbrandy-makingregions,particularlyinEurope,furtherdifferentiatetheirlocalspiritsbyspecifyingthetypesofgrapesthatcanbeusedandthespecificareas(appellation)inwhichthegrapesusedformakingthebasewinecanbegrown.
BarreledGrapeImmatureBrandybytheDampfwerkDistilleryCo.earnedaGoldMedalintheAmericanDistillingIntitute’s2018InternationalJudgingofCraftSpirits.
SPAINBRANDYDEJEREZ
BrandydeJerezismadebythesherryhousescenteredaroundthecityofJerezdelaFronterainthesouthwestcornerofSpain.
ButvirtuallyallBrandydeJerezismadefromwinesproducedelsewhereinSpain,primarilyfromtheAirengrapeinLaManchaandExtremadura,becausethelocalsherrygrapesaretoovaluabletodivertintobrandyproduction.Nowadays,mostofthedistillingislikewisedoneelsewhereinSpainincolumnstills.ItisthenshippedtoJerezforaginginusedsherrycasksinasolerasystemsimilartothatusedforsherrywine.Asoleraisaseriesoflargecasks(calledbutts),eachholdingaslightlyolderspiritthanthepreviousonebesideit.Whenbrandyisdrawnoff(racked)fromthelastbutt(nomorethanathirdofthevolumeisremoved),itisreplenishedwithbrandydrawnfromthenextbuttallthewaydownthesoleralinetothefirstbutt,wherenewlydistilledbrandyisadded.Thissystemofrackingthebrandythroughaseriesofcasksblendstogetheravarietyofvintages(somesolerashavemorethanthirtystages)andresultsinaspeedingupofthematurationprocess.
Barrelsofbrandystoredforaging.
ThesamplebottlesdisplaytheeffectsofdifferenttypesofbarrelsandagingprocessesatAlambic,Inc.
PENEDÈSBRANDY
PenedèsBrandyisfromthePenedèsregionofCataloniainthenortheastcornerofSpainnearBarcelona.ModeledaftertheCognacsofFranceandmadefromamixoflocalgrapesandtheUgniBlancofCognac,itisdistilledinpotstills.Oneofthetwolocalproducers(Torres)agesinsolerasconsistingofbuttsmadefromFrenchLimousinoak,whereastheother(Mascaro)agesinthestandardnon-soleramanner,butalsoinLimousinoak.TheresultingbrandyisheartierthanCognac,butleaneranddrierthanBrandydeJerez.
ITALYItalyhasalonghistoryofbrandyproductiondatingbacktoatleastthesixteenthcentury,butunlikeSpainorFrance,therearenospecificbrandy-producingregions.Italianbrandiesaremadefromregionalwinegrapesandmostareproducedincolumnstills,althoughtherearenowanumberofsmallartisanalproducersusingpotstills.Theyareagedinoakforaminimumofonetotwoyears,withsixtoeightyearsbeingtheindustryaverage.Italianbrandiestendtobeonthelightanddelicateside,withatouchofresidualsweetness.
AGINGTIMELINEBasicBrandydeJerezSoleramustageforaminimumofsixmonths,Reservaforoneyear,andGranReservaforaminimumofthreeyears.
Inpractice,thebestReservasandGranReservasarefrequentlyagedfortwelvetofifteenyears.Thelush,slightlysweetandfruitynotestobefoundinBrandydeJerezcomenotonlyfromaginginsherrycasksbutalsofromthejudicioususeoffruit-basedflavorconcentratesandoakessence(boise).
GERMANYGermanmonksweredistillingbrandybythefourteenthcentury,andGermandistillershadorganizedtheirownguildasearlyas1588.Yetalmostfromthestart,Germanbrandy(calledWeinbrand)hasbeenmadefromimportedwineratherthanthemorevaluablelocalvarieties.MostGermanbrandiesareproducedinpotstillsandmustbeagedforaminimumofsixmonthsinoak.Brandiesthathavebeenagedinoakforatleastoneyeararecalleduraltoralter(meaning“older”).ThebestGermanbrandiesaresmooth,somewhatlighterthanCognac,andfinishwithatouchofsweetness.
SLYRSdistillery,Germany.
SiegfriedHerzogDestillatespecializesinfruitspiritsandbrandies(below).
UNITEDSTATESGrapebrandyproductionintheUnitedStates,whichuntiltheadventofmoderncraftdistillerieswasmostlyconfinedtoCalifornia,datesbacktotheSpanishmissionsinthelateeighteenthandearlynineteenthcenturies.AsubstantialamountofpeachbrandywasmadebywhiskeydistillersinsouthernstatespriortoProhibition,however,andapplebrandydistillingcontinuedintomoderntimesonamodestscaleinNewJerseyandVirginia.IntheyearsfollowingtheCivilWar,brandybecameamajorindustry,withasubstantialexporttradetoEuropebytheendofthenineteenthcentury.Foratime,LelandStanford,founderofStanfordUniversity,wastheworld’slargestbrandyproducer.PhylloxeraandnationalProhibitionalmostshutdowntheindustryinthe1920s.
Repealstartedthingsupagain,butaswiththebourbonindustry,theadventofWorldWarIIresultedinbrandyproducersfindingthemselvesfurthermarkingtime.Soonaftertheendofthewar,theindustrycommissionedtheUniversityofCaliforniaatDavisDepartmentofViticultureandOenologytodevelopaprototype“California-style”brandy.Ithadacleanpalate,waslighterinstylethanmostEuropeanbrandies,andhadaflavorprofilethatmadeitagoodmixer.Startinginthelate1940s,Californiabrandyproducersbegantochangeovertothisnewstyle.
Thetastingroomatadistilleryisapopularstoponthetour.RickMoerschattheRoundBarnDistillerypourssomeapricotbrandyatthetastingroominhiswinery/brewery/distillery.
HighCouncilBrandyisproducedonCognac-stylestillsatMcMenaminsCPRDistillery,inHilsboro,OR.
Applepulpfromthegrinderisfedintoanaccordion-stylefilterwherethejuicewillbesqueezedouttomakeapplebrandy(seehere)atLaird&Co.,NorthGarden,VA.
CONTEMPORARYBRANDIES
ContemporarycommercialCaliforniagrapebrandiesaremadeprimarilyincolumnstillsfromtablegrapevarietiessuchastheThompsonSeedlessandFlameTokay.CaliforniabrandiesareagedfortwototwelveyearsinusedAmericanoak(bothbrandyandbourboncasks)tolimitwoodinessinthepalate,althoughpotdistillersalsouseFrenchoak.SeveralCaliforniadistillers,mostnotablyKorbel,haveutilizedtheSpanishsoleramethodformaturingtheirbrandy.CaliforniabrandiesdonotusequalitydesignationssuchasVSOPor
brandy.CaliforniabrandiesdonotusequalitydesignationssuchasVSOPorstars.Themoreexpensivebrandswillusuallycontainapercentageofoldervintagesandpot-distilledbrandiesintheblend.
Craft-distilledbrandies,includinggrape,pomace,andfruit,werethefirstofthemoderngenerationofcraftspiritstoentertheU.S.market,startinginCaliforniainthelate1980swithproducerssuchasRMS(aventureofCognacproducerRemyMartin),JepsonVineyards,andtheidiosyncraticSantaCruzwinemakerRandallGrahamatBonnyDoonVineyards.Fromthestart,thesegrapebrandyproducersgenerallyfollowedaFrench-themedmuse,withproducerssuchasGermaine-RobininMendocinoCountyandOsocalisintheSantaCruzMountainsgoingsofarastousetheclassicUgniBlanc,Colombard,andFolleBlanchegrapestomaketheirbasewine.TheyinstalledspecialCognac-stylepotstillstodistillitandthenagedtheirbrandiesincasksmadefromimportedLimousinorTroncaisoak.Theresultingbrandies,particularlyaslonger-agedexamplescomeontothemarket,have,insomecases,shownlevelsofcomplexityandflavorintensitythatputthemonparwiththeirEuropeancounterparts.
JoeandLesleyHeron,foundersofCopper&KingsDistillery,producecontemporarybrandiesinLouisville,KY.
JepsonOldStockBrandybyJaxonKeysWineryandDistilleryearnedaDoubleGoldMedal,BestofCategory,BestofClass,intheAmericanDistillingInstitute's10thAnnualJudgingofCraftSpirits,
2016.
DanielFarberstandsnexttoanewalambicArmagnacaisunderinstallationatOsocalisDistillery,Soquel,CA.AfterdistillingfordecadesonalambicCharentais,Farberisbroadeningthestyleofhis
brandies.
LATINAMERICANMEXICO
InMexicoasurprisingamountofwineismade,butitislittleknownoutsideofthecountrybecausemostofitisusedforbrandyproduction.Mexicanbrandiesaremadefromamixofgrapes,includingtheThompsonSeedless,Palomino,andUgniBlanc.Bothcolumnandpotstillsareusedinproduction,whereasthesolerasystemisgenerallyusedforaging.BrandynowoutsellstequilaandruminMexico.
SOUTHAMERICA
SouthAmericanbrandiesaregenerallyconfinedtotheirdomesticmarkets.Thebest-knowntypeispisco,aclear,rawbrandyfromPeruandChilethatismadefromMuscatgrapesanddouble-distilledinpotstills.Theresultingbrandyhasaperfumedfragranceandservesasthebaseforavarietyofmixeddrinks,includingthefamousPiscoPunch.
MasterdistillerandblenderHubertGermain-Robin,left,discussesthequalitiesofthedistillatecomingoffthestillatMcMenaminsCPRDistillerywithDistilleryManagerClarkMcCool.
PiscoStyleBrandybyLeopoldBros.
OTHERREGIONSGreeceproducespot-distilledbrandies,manyofwhich,suchasthewell-knownMetaxa,areflavoredwithMuscatwine,anise,orotherspices.
WinemakinginIsraelisawell-establishedtraditiondatingbackthousandsofyears.Butbrandyproductiondatesbackonlytothe1880s,whentheFrenchJewishphilanthropistBaronEdmonddeRothschildestablishedwhathasbecomethemodernIsraeliwineindustry.IsraelibrandyismadeinthemannerofCognacfromColombardgrapeswithdistillationinbothpotandcolumnstillsandmaturationinFrenchLimousinoakcasks.
IntheCaucasusregion,alongtheeasternshoreoftheBlackSea,theancientnationsofGeorgiaandArmeniadrawonmonastictraditionstoproducerich,intenselyflavoredpot-stillbrandiesbothfromlocalgrapesandfromsuchimportedvarietiesastheMuscadine(fromFrance)andtheSercialandVerdelho(mostfamouslyfromMadeira).
SouthAfricahasproducedbrandiessincethearrivalofthefirstDutchsettlersintheseventeenthcentury,buttheseearlyspiritsfromtheCapeColonyearnedareputationforbeingharshfirewater(witblits—whitelightning—wasatypicalnickname).Theintroductionofmodernproductiontechniquesandgovernmentregulationsintheearlytwentiethcenturygraduallyledtoanimprovementinthequalityoflocalbrandies.ModernSouthAfricanbrandiesaremadefromUgniBlanc,Colombard,CheninBlanc,andPalominograpes;producedinbothpotandcolumnstills,andagedforaminimumofthreeyearsinoak.
POMACEBRANDIES
Italyproducesasubstantialamountofgrappa,boththeraw,firewatervarietyandthemoreelegant,artisanaleffortsthataremadefromonedesignatedgrapetypeandpackagedinhand-blownbottles.Bothtypesofgrappacanbeunagedoragedforafewyearsinoldcasksthatwilltamethehardedgeofthespiritwithoutimpartingmuchflavororcolor.MarcfromFranceisproducedinallofthenation’swine-producingregions,butitismostlyconsumedlocally.MarcdeGewürztraminerfromAlsaceisnoteworthybecauseitretainssomeofthedistinctiveperfumenoseandspicycharacterofthegrape.
CraftpomacebrandiesfromtheUnitedStates,fromproducerssuchasDomaineCharbayinNapaCountyandMosbyVineyardsinSonoma,areintheItalianstyle,andtheyareusuallycalledgrappas,evenwhentheyaremadefromnon-Italiangrapevarieties.ThisisalsotrueofthepomacebrandiesfromCanada.
PoliBassanodelGrappa,Italy.
GrappadiMoscatobyBethelRd.Distillery,Templeton,CA.
Grapesenterthestillforthemakingofgrappa.
GRAPPA:NOTYOURGRANDPA’SPHLEGMCUTTERTheU.S.governmentcallsitpomacebrandy,buteversinceimmigrantsfromwinemakingcountriesbeganarrivingintheUnitedStatesandstartedtomakewine,theyweresoonrefermentingthepressedgrapeskinsfromtheirwinemakinganddistillingittomakeaquickandsimpletypeofbrandy.TheFrenchcallitmarc,butitistheItaliantermgrappathathascaughtonwithdistillersofeveryethnicbackground.
CraftdistillersintheUnitedStateshavetakentothedistillingofgrappafromtheverystartoftheindustry.PioneerbrandydistillerssuchasClearCreekandSt.GeorgeSpiritshavedevelopedspecificvarietalgrappasthatarecarefullydistilledtocapturethesubtlearomaticnotesofthebasefruit.Thesearespiritstodelightthenoseasmuchasthetastebuds.
APPLEANDOTHERFRUITBRANDIES
NormandyisoneofthefewregionsinFrancethatdoesnothaveasubstantialgrapewineindustry.Instead,itisapplecountry,withasubstantialtraditionofhardandsweetcidersthatinturncanbedistilledintoanapplebrandyknownasCalvados.Thelocalciderapples,whichtendtobesmallandtart,arecloserintypetocrabapplesthantomoderntableapples.Thisspirithasitsownappellations,withthebestbrandscomingfromAppellationControleePaysd’AugeneartheseaportofDeauville,andtherestintenadjacentregionsthataredesignatedAppellationReglementee.MostPaysd’AugeandsomeofthebetterAppellationReglementeeareproducedinpotstills.AllvarietiesofCalvadosareagedinoakcasksforaminimumoftwoyears.Cognac-stylequalityandagetermssuchasVSOPandHorsd’Agearefrequentlyusedonlabelsbuthavenolegalmeaning.
Thefruit-growingregionsoftheupperRhineRiveraretheprimeeaudevieproductionareasofEurope.TheBlackForestregionofBavariainGermanyandAlsaceinFranceareknownfortheircherrybrandies(kirinFrance,KirschwasserinGermany),raspberrybrandies(framboiseandHimbeergeist)andpearbrandies(poire).SimilareauxdeviearenowbeingproducedintheUnitedStatesinCaliforniaandOregon.Someplumbrandyisalsomadeintheseregions(mirabellefromFranceisanexample),butthebestknowntypeofplumbrandyisslivovitz,whichismadefromthesmallbluesljivaplumthroughoutEasternEuropeandtheBalkans.
SidetrackDistilleryRasberryBrandy,Kent,WA.
SebastianDegensofStoneBarnBrandyworks,Portland,OR.
PotstillsatKymarFarmWineryandDistillery,Charlotteville,NY,wheretheymakeanexceptionalapplebrandy.
AndrewRichards,right,andhisfather-in-lawRichKneiperofShadyKnollOrchardsandDistilling,Millbrook,NY,grindapplestomakeapplebrandy.
SlivovitzPlumBrandybyBeaverPondDistillery,Petersham,MA.
SunshineOrangeBrandybyStarkSpirits,Pasadena,CA.
IslandOrchardEaudeVieAppleBrandybyOrcasIslandDistillery.
IntheUnitedStates,applejack,asapplebrandyiscalledlocally,isthoughtbymanytobethefirstspiritproducedintheBritishcolonies.ThiscolonialtraditionhascontinuedwithLaird’sDistillery,establishedin1780inNewJerseyastheoldestcontinuouslyoperatingdistillingcompanyintheUnitedStateswithdistilleriesinNewJerseyandVirginia.
ArtisanfruitbrandydistillingstartedinCalifornia,butinrecentyearsithas
ArtisanfruitbrandydistillingstartedinCalifornia,butinrecentyearsithasspreadacrosstheUnitedStates,withCalvados-styleapplebrandiesfromClearCreekDistilleryinPortland,Oregon,leadingtheway,whileBlackStarFarmsinSuttonsBay,St.JulianinPawPaw,andabevyofotherartisandistillersinMichiganandelsewherehavereleasedawiderangeofdelicate,highlyaromaticcherry,raspberry,plum,andotherfruitbrandiesthatdrawanobviousinspirationfromthekirschandplumbrandiesoftheBlackForestregionofsouthernGermany.
Inpre-ProhibitionbourbonwhiskeydistilleriesintheSouth,whiskeydistillationwasseasonal,andwasdoneafterthegrainharvest.Tofillinthedowntimeduringthesummer,manyofthemalsodistilledfruitbrandies,particularlypeachbrandy.Today,moderndistilling,bothnationalandcraft,isanall-yearprocess.Butmanycraftdistilleriesarenowproducingbothgrainspiritsandfruitbrandies,so,inasense,thistraditionliveson.
MalvadosAppleBrandybyMadRiverDistillersinVermont.
ClearCreekDistilleryAppleBrandyAged8YearsinFrenchOak,750ml,earnedaGoldMedal,BestofCategory,intheAmericanDistillingInstitute’s10thAnnualJudgingofCraftSpirits,2016.
BRANDYCOCKTAILS
SIDECARFillashortglasswithice.
Inashaker,combine
1ounce(30ml)brandy
1ounce(30ml)TripleSec
1ounce(30ml)lemonjuice
IcetofillShakeandstrainintotheglass.
STINGERFillashortglasswithice.Add
1ounce(30ml)brandy
1ounce(30ml)whitecrèmedementheStirandserve.
BRANDYALEXANDERInashaker,combine
1ounce(30ml)brandy
1ounce(30ml)darkcrèmedecacao
1ounce(30ml)cream
IcetofillShakeandstrainintoalargebrandysnifter.Dustwithnutmeg.
Chapter7
RUM
GRAPESandgrainmaybethetwomajorrawmaterialsfordistillation,buttheyarebynomeanstheonlyones.Sugarcaneprovidestwodifferentfermentables:sugarcanejuiceandmolasses,whichisaby-productofsugarrefining.Bothareusedasthebasisofrumproduction,which,asaspirit,rangesacrossthecolorandtastespectrumfromthealmostvodka-likeblancosofPuertoRicotothehearty,deep-hueddemerarasofGuyana,withsomeverydistinctivevariationsinbetween.
Bottlesofrumofdifferentages(youngesttooldest,lefttoright)atCelebrationDistillationinNewOrleans.
THEHISTORYOFRUM
Thehistoryofrumisthehistoryofsugar.Sugarisasweetcrystallinecarbohydratethatoccursnaturallyinavarietyofplants.Oneofthoseisthesugarcane(Saccharumofficinarum),atall,thickgrassthathasitsoriginsintheislandsofpresent-dayIndonesiaintheEastIndies.ChinesetradersspreaditscultivationtoAsiaandontoIndia.ArabsinturnbroughtittotheMiddleEastandNorthAfrica,whereitcametotheattentionofEuropeansduringtheCrusadesintheeleventhcentury.
AstheSpanishandPortuguesebegantoventureoutintotheAtlanticOcean,theyplantedsugarcaneintheCanaryandAzoresIslands.In1493,ChristopherColumbuspickedupcanecuttingsfromtheCanarieswhileonhissecondvoyagetotheAmericasandtransplantedthemtoHispaniola,theCaribbeanislandnowsharedbyHaitiandtheDominicanRepublic.PortugueseexplorerssoondidlikewiseinBrazil.
TheCaribbeanbasinprovedtohaveanidealclimateforgrowingsugarcane,andsugarproductionquicklyspreadaroundtheislands.TheinsatiabledemandinEuropeforsugarsoonledtotheestablishmentofhundredsofsugarcaneplantationsandmillsinthevariousEnglish,Spanish,French,Portuguese,andDutchcolonies.Thesemillscrushedtheharvestedcaneandextractedthejuice.Boilingthisjuicecausedchunksofcrystallizedsugartoform.Theremainingunsolidifiedjuicewascalledmelazas(fromtheSpanishwordforhoney,miel);inEnglishthisbecamethewordmolasses.
Molassesisastickysyrupthatstillcontainsasignificantamountofsugar.Sugarmilloperatorssoonnoticedthatwhenitwasmixedwithwaterandleftoutinthesun,itfermented.Bythe1650s,thisformerwasteproductwasbeingdistilledintoaspirit.IntheEnglishcolonies,itwascalledKillDevil(fromitstendencytocauseanastyhangoveroritsperceivedmedicinalpower,takeyourchoice)orrumbullion(originuncertain),whichwasshortenedovertheyearstoourmodernwordrum.TheFrenchrenderthiswordasrhum,whiletheSpanishcallitron.
Rumwasusedasacure-allformanyoftheachesandpainsthatafflictedthoselivinginthetropics.Sugarplantationownerssoldit,atdiscountedprices,tonavalshipsthatwereonstationintheCaribbeaninordertoencouragetheirpresenceinlocalwatersandthusdiscouragemaraudingpirates.
Sugarcanefield,Louisiana.
GROGTheBritishnavyadoptedadailyrationofahalfpintof160°proofrumbythe1730s.Thisrationwassubsequentlymodifiedbymixingitwithanequalamountofwatertoproduceadrinkcalledgrog.ThegrogrationremainedastapleofBritishnavallifeuntil1969.
Thisnaval-rumconnectionintroducedrumtotheoutsideworld,andbythelateseventeenthcenturyathrivingexporttradedeveloped.TheBritishislandsshippedrumtoGreatBritain(whereitwasmixedintorumpunchesandreplacedginasthedominantspiritintheeighteenthcentury)andtotheBritishcoloniesinNorthAmerica,whereitbecameverypopular.ThisexportofrumtoNorthAmerica,inexchangeforNewEnglandlumberanddriedcod(stillaculinarystapleintheCaribbean),soonchangedovertotheexportofmolassestodistilleriesinNewEngland.ThiswasdonetoavoidlawsfromtheBritishParliament,whichprotectedBritishdistillersbyforbiddingthetradeinspiritsdirectlybetweencolonies.Thislawwas,atbest,honoredinthebreach,andsmugglingsoonbecamerampant.
TheshippingofmolassestomakeruminNewEnglanddistilleriesbecamepartoftheinfamous“slaverytriangle.”Thefirstlegwastheshipmentofmolassesto
oftheinfamous“slaverytriangle.”ThefirstlegwastheshipmentofmolassestoNewEnglandtomakerum.ThesecondlegwastheshipmentofrumtotheportsofWestAfricatotradeforslaves.ThefinallegwasthepassageofslaveshipstothesugarplantationsoftheCaribbeanandSouthAmerica,wheremanyoftheslaveswereputtoworkinthesugarcanefields.
ThedisruptionoftradecausedbytheAmericanRevolutionandtheriseofwhiskeyproductioninNorthAmericaresultedinthegradualdeclineofrum’sdominanceastheAmericannationaltipple.RumproductionintheUnitedStatesslowlydeclinedthroughthenineteenthcentury,withthelastNewEnglandrumdistilleriesclosingattheadventofProhibitionin1920.ThefamedrumrunnersoftheProhibitioneraweresmugglingprimarilywhiskeyintotheUnitedStates.
InEurope,theinventionofsugarextractionfromthesugarbeetlessenedthedemandforCaribbeansugar,reducingtheamountofmolassesbeingproducedandtheresultingamountofrumbeingdistilled.Manysmallplantationsandtheirstillswereclosed.Rumproductionreceded,forthemostpart,tocountrieswheresugarcanewasgrown.Themodernhistoryofrumowesalottothespreadofair-conditioningandthegrowthoftourism.Inthesecondhalfofthetwentiethcentury,modernair-conditioningmadeitpossibleforlargenumbersofpeopletomigratetowarm-weatherregionswhererumremainedthedominantspirit.Additionally,theexplosiveincreaseinthenumberofNorthAmericanandEuropeantouristsintorum-drinkingregionsledtoasteadyincreaseinthepopularityofrum-basedmixeddrinks.Nowadays,whiterumgivesvodkaseriouscompetitionasthemixerofchoiceinanumberofdistinctivelynontropicalmarkets.
ManuleleDistillersKoHanaKohoHawaiianAgricoleRum.
CaneLandDistillingCo.RhumAgricoleLARum.
MalahatSpiritsCabernetBarrelRumearnedaGoldMedal,BestofCategoryandBestofClassintheAmericanDistillingInstitute’s10thAnnualJudgingofCraftSpirits,2016.
Agedrumisgainingnewstandingamongconsumersofsingle-maltScotch,Cognac,andsmall-batchbourbon,whoarelearningtoappreciatethesubtlecomplexitiesofthisrum.Thepot-stillrumsofGuyanaandJamaicahaveaparticularappealforScotchdrinkers.(ItisnoaccidentthattheScottishwhiskymerchantandbottlerCadenheadalsoagesandbottlesdemerararum.)Thesubtle
andcomplexrhumsofMartiniqueandGuadeloupemirrortheflavorprofilesofthetopFrenchbrandiesinCognacandArmagnac.
StarkSpiritsCaliforniaGoldRum.
BobRyanandpartnerDaveWoodatRyan&WoodDistilleriesinGloucester,Massachusetts.
Diablo’sShadowNavyStrengthRumbySutherlandDistillingCo.
CoasterforRaggedMountainRumbyBerkshireMountainDistillers:“ThinkGlobally,DrinkLocally”
STYLE DEFINITION
WhiteRums Generallylightbodied(althoughthereareafewheavy-bodiedwhiterumsintheFrenchislands).Theyareusuallyclearandhaveaverysubtleflavorprofile.Iftheyareagedinoakcaskstocreateasmoothpalate,theyarethenusuallyfilteredtoremoveanycolor.Whiterumsareprimarilyusedasmixersandblendparticularlywellwithfruitflavors.
GoldenRums Alsoknownasamberrums,thesearegenerallymediumbodied.Mosthavespentseveralyearsaginginoakcasks,whichgivethemsmooth,mellowpalates.
DarkRums Traditionally,full-bodied,richcaramel-dominatedrums,thebestareproducedmostlyfrompotstillsandfrequentlyagedinoakcasksforextendedperiods.Therichestoftheserumsareconsumedstraightup.
SpicedRums White,golden,ordarkrums,theyareinfusedwithspicesorfruitflavors.Rumpunches(suchasPlanter’sPunch)areblendsofrumandfruitjuicesthatareverypopularintheCaribbean.
AgeDatedBlendedRums Theseareagedrumsfromdifferentvintagesorbatchesthataremixedtogethertoensureacontinuityofflavorinbrandsofrumfromyeartoyear.Someagedrumswillgiveagestatementsstatingtheyoungestrumintheblend(e.g.,a10-year-oldrumcontainsablendofrumsthatareatleast10yearsold).AsmallnumberofFrenchislandrumsarevintagedated.
TwentyBoatAmberRumbySouthHollowSpirits,750ml,earnedaGoldMedalintheAmericanDistillingInstitute’s10thAnnualJudgingofCraftSpirits,2016.
RUMCOCKTAILS
RUMANDCOKE(CUBALIBRE)Fillashortglasswithice.Inashaker,combine
11/2ounces(45ml)darkrum
Juiceofhalfalime
ColatofillStirandgarnishwithalimewedge.
DAIQUIRIFillashortglasswithice.Inashaker,combine
1/2ounce(45ml)whiterum
1ounce(30ml)limejuice
1tablespoon(15g)sugar
IcetofillShakeandstrainintotheglass.
PLANTER’SPUNCHFillatallglasswithice.Inashaker,combine
11/2ounces(45ml)darkrum
1/2ounce(15ml)limejuice
1/2ounce(15ml)lemonjuice
3ounces(90ml)orangejuice
1teaspoon(5g)sugar
Dashgrenadinesyrup
IcetofillShakeandstrainintotheglass.
ErikandKarinVonkareturningpeanutfieldsintosugarcaneandmakingrumfromitatRichlandDistillingCo.,Richland,GA.
THEBASISOFRUM
Rum,anditsfraternaltwin,canespirit,aremadebydistillingfermentedsugarandwater.Thissugarcomesfromthesugarcaneandisfermentedfromcanejuice,concentratedcanejuice,ormolasses.Molassesisthesweet,stickyresiduethatremainsaftersugarcanejuiceisboiledandthecrystallizedsugarisextracted.
Mostrumismadefrommolasses.Molassesismorethan50percentsugar,butitalsocontainssignificantamountsofmineralsandothertraceelements,whichcancontributetothefinalflavor.Rumsmadefromcanejuice,primarilyonHaitiandMartinique,haveanaturallysmoothpalate.
Dependingontherecipe,the“wash”(thecanejuiceormolassesandwater)isfermented,usingeitherculturedyeastorairbornewildyeasts,foraperiodrangingfrom24hoursforlightrumsuptoseveralweeksforheavy,fullvarieties.
CanejuicefermentsatRyanandWoodDistillery,Gloucester,MA.
DISTILLATIONOFRUM
Rumcanbedistilledineitherpotorcolumnstills.Thechoiceofstillshasaprofoundeffectonthefinalcharacteroftherum.
Allrumscomeoutofthestillasclear,colorlessspirits.Barrelagingandtheuseofaddedcarameldeterminethefinalcolor.Becausecaramelisburntsugar,itistruethatonlynaturalcoloringagentsareused.
Lighterrumsarehighlyrectified(purified)andareproducedincolumnorcontinuousstills,thenusuallycharcoalfilteredandsometimesagedinoldoakcasksforafewmonthstoaddsmoothness.Mostlightrumshaveminimalflavorsandaromasandareverysimilartovodka.Heavierrumsareusuallydistilledinpotstills,similartothoseusedtoproduceCognacsandScotchwhiskeys.Potstillsarelessefficientthancolumnstillsandsomecongeners(fuseloilsandotherflavorelements)arecarriedoverwiththealcohol.Theseheavierrumsareusedformakinggoldenanddarkrums.
Somebrandsofrumaremadebyblendingpot-andcolumn-distilledrumsinamannersimilartothatofArmagnacproduction.
RusticatorRumbySpiritsofMaineDistilleryearnedaGoldMedalintheAmericanDistillingInstitute's10thAnnualJudgingofCraftSpirits,2016.
Maggie’sFarmQueen’sShareDoubleBarrelRumbyAlleghenyDistilling.
RUMREGIONS
THECARIBBEAN
TheCaribbeanistheepicenterofworldrumproduction.Virtuallyeverymajorislandgroupproducesitsowndistinctrumstyle.
BARBADOSproduceslight,sweetishrumsfrombothpotandcolumnstills.Rumdistillationbeganhere,andtheMountGayDistillery,datingfrom1663,isprobablytheoldestoperatingrumproducerintheworld.
CUBAproduceslight-bodied,crisp,cleanrumsfromcolumnstills.ItiscurrentlyillegaltoshipCubanrumsintotheUnitedStates.
THEDOMINICANREPUBLICisnotableforitsfull-bodied,agedrumsfromcolumnstills.
GUYANAisjustlyfamousforitsrich,heavydemerararums,namedforalocalriver,whichareproducedfrombothpotandcolumnstills.Demerararumscanbeagedforextendedperiods(25-year-oldvarietiesareonthemarket)andarefrequentlyusedforblendingwithlighterrumsfromotherregions.NeighboringSurinamandFrenchGuyanaproducesimilarfull-bodiedrums.
HAITIfollowstheFrenchtraditionofheavierrumsthataredouble-distilledinpotstillsandagedinoakcasksforthreeormoreyearstoproducefull-flavored,exceptionallysmooth-tastingrums.Haitialsostillhasanextensiveundergroundmoonshineindustrythatsuppliesthevoodooreligiousritualtrade.
JAMAICAiswellknownforitsrich,aromaticrums,mostofwhichareproducedinpotstills.Jamaicahasofficialclassificationsofrum,rangingfromlighttoveryfull-flavored.Jamaicanrumsareusedextensivelyforblending.
MARTINIQUEisaFrenchislandwiththelargestnumberofdistilleriesintheEasternCaribbean.Bothpotandcolumnstillsareused.AsonotherFrenchislandssuchasGuadeloupe,bothrhumagricole(madefromsugarcanejuice)andrhumindustriel(madefrommolasses)areproduced.TheserumsarefrequentlyagedinusedFrenchbrandycasksforaminimumofthreeyears.Rhumvieux(agedrum)isfrequentlycomparedtohigh-qualityFrenchbrandies.
PUERTORICOisknownprimarilyforlight,verydryrumsfromcolumnstills.
PUERTORICOisknownprimarilyforlight,verydryrumsfromcolumnstills.AllPuertoRicanrumsmust,bylaw,beagedforaminimumofoneyear.
TRINIDADproducesmainlylightrumsfromcolumnstillsandhasanextensiveexporttrade.
THEVIRGINISLANDS
TheVirginIslands,whicharedividedbetweentheUnitedStatesVirginIslandsandtheBritishVirginIslands,bothproducelight,mixingrumsfromcolumnstills.Theserums,andthoseofnearbyGrenada,alsoserveasthebaseforbayrum,aclassicaftershavelotion.
CENTRALAMERICA
CentralAmericahasavarietyofprimarilymedium-bodiedrumsfromcolumnstillsthatlendthemselveswelltoaging.Theyhaverecentlybeguntogaininternationalrecognition.
SOUTHAMERICA
SouthAmericaproducesvastquantitiesofmostlylightrumsfromcolumnstills,withunagedcanespiritfromBrazil,calledcachaça,beingthebest-knownexample.Venezuelabucksthisgeneraltrendwithanumberofwell-respectedbarrel-agedgoldenanddarkrums.
NORTHAMERICA
NorthAmericahasahandfuloftraditionalrumdistilleriesinthesouthernUnitedStates,producingarangeoflight-andmedium-bodiedrumsthataregenerallymarketedwithCaribbean-themednames.Moderncraftdistilleriesproducingrumhaveskyrocketedfromahandfuladecadeagotomorethan300.CraftproducersaregenerallymakingastyletorumthatisdryerthantheirCaribbeancounterpartsandtheyhavesprungupinmanylocationsnotusuallyassociatedwithrum.
DrySpicedRumbyCotton&Reed,adistillerybarinWashington,DC,startedbytwoformerNASAengineers.
ParticularlynoteworthyproducersincludingPrichard’sDistilleryinKelso,Tennessee;MontanyaDistillersinCrestedButte,Colorado;LouisianaSpiritsinLacassine,Louisiana;MalahatSpiritsinSanDiego,California;Maggie’sFarmRumDistilleryinPittsburgh,Pennsylvania;PrivateerRumDistilleryinIpswich,Massachusetts,andWickedDolphininCapeCoral,Florida.
CANADA
CANADA
InCanada,the300-year-oldtraditionoftradingrumfordriedcodfishcontinuesintheAtlanticmaritimeprovincesofNewfoundlandandNovaScotia,wheregoldenrumsfromAntigua,Barbados,andJamaicaareimportedandagedforfiveyears.Theresultingheartyrumisknownlocallyasscreech.
EUROPE
Europeisprimarilyablenderofimportedrums.BoththeUnitedKingdomandFranceimportrumsfromtheirformercoloniesintheCaribbeanforagingandbottling.Heavy,darkJamaicanrumsareimportedintoGermanyandmixedwithneutralspiritata1:19ratiotoproducerumverschnitt.AsimilarproductinAustriaiscalledinlanderrum.
ThetastingroomatMalahatSpirits,SanDiego,CA,ispackedonabusyafternoon.
AUSTRALIAANDOCEANA
Australiaproducessubstantialamountsofwhiteandgoldenrumsinadouble-distillationmethodutilizingbothcolumnandpotstills.Rumisthesecondmostpopularalcoholicbeverageinthecountryafterbeer.LightrumsarealsoproducedonsomeoftheislandsintheSouthPacificsuchasTahitiandFiji,and
producedonsomeoftheislandsintheSouthPacificsuchasTahitiandFiji,andIndianOceanislandssuchasMauritiusandMadagascar.
ASIA
InAsia,rumstendtofollowregionalsugarcaneproduction,withwhiteandgoldenrumsfromcolumnstillsbeingproducedprimarilyinthePhilippinesandThailand.
ThetastingroomatCaneLandDistillingCo.,BatonRouge,LA.
DougCharboneau,left,andhissonJeanLucattheCharboneauDistillery,Natchez,MS.
EdHaikatCajunSpiritsDistillery,NewOrleans,LA.
SagatibaPuraCachaça(Brazil).
WHENISRUMNOTRUM?WHENITISCACHAÇA,OFCOURSE
Brazilisoneofthemajorsugarcane-growingregionsintheworld,butthereisnolocalrum,assuch,tobefoundinbarsandstores.Insteadthereiscachaça,whichBrazilianspatrioticallyinsistisauniquelocalspirit.Lessstarry-eyedforeigndrinkerswouldclassifyitasasugarcanejuicespiritsimilartorhumagricolefromFrenchislandrumregions.Thequalityofcachaçacanvarywidely,rangingfrominexpensivebrands(wherethesugarcanespiritismixedwithindustrialethanolinamannersimilartomixtotequilaorAmericanblendedwhiskey)towell-agedartisancachaçasproducedinpotstillsandmaturedinoakbarrels.
Chapter8
TEQUILAANDAGAVESPIRITS
“ALLTEQUILAISMEZCAL,BUTNOTALLMEZCALISTEQUILLA.”Tequilamarketingmantra
Theagaveplant,anativeofCentralAmerica,providesthefermentablebasisforavarietyofdistilledspirits,ofwhichtequilaisthebestknown,butbynomeanstheonlyexample.
THEEVOLUTIONOFTEQUILA
In1656,thevillageofTequila(namedforthelocalTicuilasIndians)wasgrantedacharterbythegovernorofNewGalicia.Taxrecordsofthetimeshowthatmezcalwasalreadybeingproducedinthearea.Thismezcal,madefromthelocalblueagave,establishedareputationforhavingasuperiortaste,andbarrelsofthe“mezcalwinefromTequila”weresoonbeingshippedtonearbyGuadalajaraandmoredistantcitiessuchasthesilver-miningboomtownsofSanLuisPotosíandAguascalientes.
Theoldestofthestill-existingdistilleriesinTequiladatesbackto1795,whentheSpanishcrowngrantedadistiller’slicensetoJoseCuervo.In1805,adistillerywasestablishedthatwouldultimatelycomeunderthecontroloftheSauzafamily.Bythemid-1800s,thereweredozensofdistilleriesandmillionsofagaveplantsundercultivationaroundTequilainwhathadbecomethestateofJalisco.Gradually,thelocallyproducedmezcalcametobeknownastequila(justasthegrapebrandyfromtheCognacregioninFrancecametobeknownsimplyasCognac).
MexicoachievedindependencefromSpainin1821.Untilthe1870s,itwasapoliticallyunstablecountrythatexperiencedfrequentchangesingovernment,revolutions,andadisastrouswarwiththeUnitedStates.Maraudingbandsofsoldiersandguerillasextracted“revolutionarytaxes”and“voluntary”contributionsinkindfromthetavernsanddistilleries.In1876,ageneralnamedPorfirioDíaz,whowasfromthemezcal-producingstateofOaxaca(oah-HA-kuh),cametopowerandusheredina35-yearperiodofrelativepeaceandstabilityknownasthePorfiriato.
AjimadorharvestsblueagaveformakingtequilainJalisco,Mexico.
Itwasduringthisperiodthatthetequilaindustrybecamefirmlyestablished.ModestexportsoftequilabegantotheUnitedStatesandEurope,withJoseCuervoshippingthefirstthreebarrelstoElPaso,Texas,in1873.By1910,thenumberofagavedistilleriesinthestateofJaliscohadgrowntoalmostahundred.
ThecollapseoftheDíazregimein1910ledtoadecade-longperiodofrevolutionthatinhibitedthetequilaindustry.Thereturnofpeaceinthe1920sledtotheexpansionoftequilaproductioninJaliscobeyondtheareaaroundthetownofTequila,withgrowthbeingparticularlynoteworthyinthehighlands
townofTequila,withgrowthbeingparticularlynoteworthyinthehighlandsaroundthevillageofArandas.Thisperiodalsosawtheadoptionofmodernproductiontechniquesfromthewineindustry,suchascultivatedyeastandmicrobiologicalsanitarypractices.
Inthe1930s,thepracticeofaddingnon-agavesugarstotheaguamiel,or“honeywater,”wasintroducedandquicklyadoptedbymanytequilaproducers.Thesemixto(mixed)tequilashadalessintensetastethan100percentblueagavetequilas.Butthisrelativeblandnessalsomadethemmoreappealingtononnativeconsumers,particularlythoseintheUnitedStates.
Blueagaveformakingtequila,Jalisco,Mexico.
THEBASISOFTEQUILAANDMEZCAL
TequilaandmezcalaremadebydistillingthefermentedjuiceofagaveplantsinMexico.Theagaveisaspiky-leafedmemberofthelilyfamily(itisnotacactus)andisrelatedtothecenturyplant.ByMexicanlaw,theagavespiritcalledtequilacanbemadeonlyfromoneparticulartypeofagave,theblueagave(AgavetequilanaWeber),anditcanbeproducedonlyinspecificallydesignatedgeographicareas,primarilythestateofJaliscoinwest-centralMexico.Mezcalis
madefromthefermentedjuiceofotherspeciesofagave.ItisproducedthroughoutmostofMexico.Racillaisamezcalmadefromnon-blueagaveinJalisco.
Bothtequilaandmezcalarepreparedfordistillationinsimilarways.Theagave,alsoknowasmaguey(pronouncedmuh-GAY),iscultivatedonplantationsforeighttotenyears,dependingonthetypeofagave.Whentheplantreachessexualmaturity,itstartstogrowaflowerstalk.Theagavefarmer,orcampesino,cutsoffthestalkjustasitisstartingtogrow.Thisredirectstheplantgrowthintothecentralstalk,swellingitintoalarge,bulbousshapethatcontainsasweetjuicypulp.Whentheswellingiscompleted,thecampesinocutstheplantfromitsrootsandremovesthelongsword-shapedleaves,usingarazor-sharp,pike-liketoolcalledacoa.Theremainingpiña(“pineapple”—so-calledbecausethecross-thatched,denudedbulbresemblesagiantgreen-and-whitepineapple)weighsanywherefrom25to100pounds.
Atthedistillery,thepiñasarecutintoquarters.Fortequila,theyarethenslowlybakedinsteamovensorautoclavesuntilallofthestarchhasbeenconvertedtosugars.Formezcal,theyarebakedinundergroundovensheatedwithwoodcharcoal(whichgivesmezcalitsdistinctivesmokytaste).Theyarethencrushed(traditionallywithastonewheeldrawnaroundacirculartroughbyamule)andshreddedtoextractthesweetjuice,calledaguamiel(honeywater).
WHATBINGCROSBYANDJIMMYBUFFETTHAVEINCOMMONModestamountsoftequilahadbeenexportedintoU.S.bordertownssincethelatenineteenthcentury.ThefirstmajorboosttotequilasalesintheUnitedStatescameinthelate1940swhentheMargaritacocktail,ablendoftequila,limejuice,orangeliqueur,andice,wasinvented.Itsoriginsareuncertain,butHollywoodactorsandcocktailpartiesinCaliforniaandMexicanresortsseemtobeinvolvedinmostofthegenesisstories.ItisknownthatcroonerandactorBingCrosbywassotakenwithoneparticularbrandoftequila,Herradura,thatheteamedupwithfellowactorPhilHarristoimportthebrandintotheUnitedStates.Themargarita,alongwiththeTequilaSunriseandtheTequilaSour,havebecomehighlypopularintheUnitedStates;infact,itisclaimedbymanyintheliquorindustrythattheMargaritaisthesinglemostpopularcocktailinthenation.Inthe1970s,whenballadeerJimmyBuffettsangof“wastingawayagaininMargaritaville,”thesuccessofthesongenticedmillionsmoreAmericanstosipfromthesalt-rimmedMargaritaglass.
FERMENTATION:AGAVEORMIXTO
Thefermentationstagedetermineswhetherthefinalproductwillbe100percentagaveormixto.Thehighest-qualitytequilaismadefromfermentingandthendistillingonlyagavejuicemixedwithsomewater.Mixtoismadebyfermentingandthendistillingamixofagavejuiceandothersugars,usuallycanesugarwithwater.MixtosmadeandbottledinMexicocancontainupto40percentalcoholmadefromothersugars.Mixtosthathavebeenshippedinbulktoothercountries(primarilytheUnitedStates)forbottlingmayhavetheagavecontentfurtherreducedto51percentbytheforeignbottler.ByMexicanlaw,all100percentagaveoragedtequilasmustbebottledinMexico.Ifatequilais100percentagave,itwillalwayssaysoonthebottlelabel.Ifitdoesn’tsay100percent,itisamixto,althoughthattermisseldomusedonbottlelabels.
DISTILLATIONANDAGINGOFTEQUILAANDMEZCAL
Traditionally,tequilaandmezcalhavebeendistilledinpotstillsat110°proof(55percentABV).Theresultingspiritisclearbutcontainsasignificantamountofcongenersandotherflavorelements.Somelight-coloredtequilasarenowbeingrectified(redistilled)incolumnstillstoproduceacleaner,blanderspirit.
Colorintequilaandmezcalcomesmostlyfromtheadditionofcaramel,althoughbarrelagingisafactorinsomehigh-qualitybrands.Additionally,somedistillersaddsmallamountsofnaturalflavoringssuchassherry,pruneconcentrate,andcoconuttomanipulatetheproduct’sflavorprofile.Theseaddedflavorsdonotstandout,bythemselves,butinsteadservetosmoothouttheoftenhard-edgedpalateofagavespirit.
AbottleofAguaAzul,ablueagaveeaudevie.
MEZCALANDTHEWORM
TherulesandregulationsthatgoverntheproductionandpackagingoftequiladonotapplytoagavespiritsproducedoutsideofthedesignatedareasinMexico.Somemezcaldistilleriesareveryprimitiveandverysmall.ThebestknownmezcalscomefromthesouthernstateofOaxaca,althoughtheyareproducedinanumberofotherstates.Eightvarietiesofagaveareapprovedformezcal
production,butthechiefvarietyusedistheespadinagave(AgaveangustifoliaHaw).
Thefamouswormfoundinsomebottlesofmezcal(“congusano”)isthelarvaofoneoftwomothsthatliveontheagaveplant.Thereasonforaddingthewormtothebottleofmezcalisobscure.Butonestory,whichatleasthastheappealoflogictobackitup,isthatthewormservesasproofofhighproof:Thewormremainsintactinthebottleifthepercentageofalcoholinthespiritishighenoughtopreservethepickledworm.Consumingtheworm,whichcanbedonewithoutharm,hasservedasariteofpassageforgenerationsoffraternityboys.Top-qualitymezcalsdonotincludeaworminthebottle.
Barrelssetforagingtequilainawarehouse/tastingroom.
THEBLUEAGAVESTRIKESBACK
Fromthe1930sthroughthe1980s,thebulkofthetequilabeingproducedwasoftheblendedmixtovariety.Theoriginal100percentagavetequilaswerereducedtoaminorspecialtyproductinthemarket.Inthelate1980s,therisingsuccessofsingle-maltScotchandexpensiveCognacsintheinternationalmarketplacedidnotgounnoticedamongtequilaproducers.Newbrandsof100percentblueagavetequilaswereintroduced,andsalesbeganasteadygrowthcurvethatcontinuestothisday.
CincodeNoviembreMezcalbyKimoSabeMezcal.
BrendanMoylanholdsupacoupleofbottlesofJBWagoner’s100percentBlueAgaveSpiritsinfrontofhiswell-stockedbar.
THESPIRITOFMEXICOISMORETHANJUSTAGAVE
InthenorthernMexicanstatesofChihuahua,Coahulia,andDurango,alocalevergreenshrubcalledthedasylirionisusedtoproducesotol,acrispspiritwithdrymetallicnotes.Aguardiente(roughlytranslatedas“firewater”)isanunaged,frequentlyrawspiritthatisdistilledfromprettymuchwhateverfermentableorganicbaseproductisavailable.Drinkatyourownrisk.
NON-MEXICANAGAVESPIRITS
Federalexcisetaxrecordsindicatethattequila-likeagavespiritswereproduced
Federalexcisetaxrecordsindicatethattequila-likeagavespiritswereproducedinthe1930sinthesouthwesternUnitedStates.Recently,morethanadozenmoderncraftdistillershavebeguntoexperimentwiththeirownagavespirits,suchasElLadronAgaveSpiritbyVenusSpiritsinSantaCruz,California;AguaAzulbySt.GeorgeSpiritsinAlameda,California;andElKeyotebyCannonBeachDistilleryinCannonBeach,Oregon;TheWiseKingAnejoAgaveSpiritbyState38Distilling,GoldenColorado,andFronteraNorteAgavebyFlyingDutchmanSpiritsinEdenPrarie,Minnesota.
CLASSIFICATIONSOFTEQUILABeyondthetwobasicdesignationsoftequila—agaveandmixto—therearefourcategories:
STYLE DEFINITION HOWEVER…
SilverorBlanco Clear,withlittle(nomorethan60daysinstainlesssteeltanks)ornoaging.Theycanbeeither100percentagaveormixto.Silvertequilasareusedprimarilyformixingandblendparticularlywellintofruit-baseddrinks.
Onceyouhaveconfirmedthatitis100percentblueagave,afancybottleandahigherpricedonotnecessarilymeanthatitisabetterspirit.
Gold Unagedsilvertequilathathasbeencoloredandflavoredwithcaramel.Itisusuallyamixto.
Aproductcategoryproducedprimarilyforsillygringos.Serioustequiladrinkersgoforreposados.
Reposado/Rested “Rested”tequilaisagedinwoodentanksorcasksforalegalminimumperiodofatleasttwomonths,withthebetter-qualitybrandsspendingthreetoninemonthsinwood.Itcanbeeither100percentagaveormixto.
Reposadotequilasarethebest-sellingtequilasinMexico.
Añejo/Aged “Old”tequilaisagedinwoodenbarrels(usuallyoldbourbonbarrels)foraminimumof12months.Thebest-qualityanejosareagedfor18monthstothreeyearsformixtos,anduptofouryearsfor100percentagaves.
Agingtequilaformorethanfouryearsisamatterofcontroversy.Mosttequilaproducersopposedoingsobecausetheyfeelthat“excessive”oakagingwilloverwhelmthedistinctiveearthyandvegetalagaveflavornotes.
ElLadronAgaveSpiritbyVenusSpirits,SantaCruz,CA.
ElKeyoteAgaveSpiritfromCannonBeachDistilley,CannonBeach,OR.
TheWiseKingAnejoAgaveSpiritbyState38Distilling,GoldenColorado.
ASTHEWORMTURNS
Theupgradingandupscalingoftequilahas,inturn,inspiredmezcalproducerstoundertakesimilarmeasures.Inthepastfewyears,anincreasingnumberofhigh-endmezcals,includingsomeintriguing“singlevillage”bottlings,havebeenintroducedtothemarket.Mezcalnowseemstobecomingintoitsownasadistinctive,noteworthyspirit.
TEQUILACOCKTAILS
CLASSICMARGARITATakeashortglass.Wettherimwithlimejuice.Puttheglassupsidedownincoarsesalt,sothatthesaltclingstotherim.Inacocktailshaker,combine:
11/2ounces(45ml)silvertequila3/4ounce(23ml)triplesec
3/4ounce(23ml)limejuice
IcetofillShakeandstrainintothesalt-rimmedglassandgarnishwithalimeslice.
FROZENFRUITMARGARITATakeashortglass.Wettherimwithlimejuiceandputtheglassupsidedownincoarsesalt,sosaltclingstotherim(thisstepisoptional).CombinetheingredientsfortheClassicMargaritainablenderwithveryripefruit(6to7ounces[170to200g]freshor4ounces[115g]frozen).Add3/4cupice.Blenduntilsmoothandpourintotheglass.
TEQUILASUNRISE
Fillatallglasswithice.Add:
11/2ounces(45ml)silvertequila
OrangejuicealmosttofullSlowlypour1/2ounce(15ml)grenadinesyrupoverthetop.(Asittricklesdown,itcreatesthe“sunrise”effect.)
Chapter9
INFUSEDSPIRITS:LIQUEURS,SCHNAPPS,ANISE,ANDBITTERS
LIQUORScanrefergenericallytodistilledspirits,buttheycanalsobespecificallyflavoredspirits.Addasweetenerandtheybecomeliqueurs.Addcertainherbsandyounowhavebitters.Attheendoftheday,ifsomethingcanbefermentedandthendistilled,peoplewilldrinkit.
Liqueurs,schnapps,anise,amari,andbittersaretermsthatcoverawidevarietyoftypesofspirits.Whattheyallshareincommonisthattheyareinfused,orflavored,spirits.
NewColumbiaDistillersSummerCupisagin-basedcordialbasedonthepopularEnglishcocktailtheSummerFruitCup.
LIQUEURS
Alsoknownascordials,liqueursaresweet,flavor-infusedspiritsthatarecategorizedaccordingtotheflavoringagent(fruits,nuts,herbalandspiceblends,creams,andsuch).ThewordliqueurcomesfromtheLatinliquifacere(“todissolve”)andreferstothedissolvingofflavoringsinthespirits.Artificialflavoringsarestrictlyregulatedinmostcountriesandwhereallowedtheymustbeprominentlylabeledassuch.
Top-qualityliqueursareproducedbydistillationofeitherthefermentedflavormaterialsorthespiritinwhichtheyhavebeeninfused.ManyliqueursusefinishedspiritssuchasCognac,rum,orwhiskeyastheirbase.Othersmaceratefruitorotherflavoringsinaneutralspirit.Crèmes(crèmedementhe,crèmedecacao,etc.)areliqueurswithaprimaryflavor,whilecreamliqueurscombinedairycreamandalcoholinahomogenized,shelf-stableblend.
Liqueursarenotusuallyagedforanygreatlengthoftime,buttheymayundergorestingstagesduringtheirproductiontoallowthevariousflavorsto“marry”intoaharmoniousblend.SomeItalianamariarerestedinbarrelsforseveralyearsasthecomplexbotanicalmixturescombineintodeepflavors.
Townshend’sDistilleryinPortland,OR,producesalineofspirits,includingherballiqueurs,fromexcessalcoholextractedfromtheirBrewDr.Kombucha.
FreshlyfilledbottlesofRaspberryLiqueurawaitboxingandshippingattheSidetrackDistilleryinKent,WA.
Unripenedblackwalnutsareinfusedinhigh-proofalcoholintheprocessofmakingNocino,anItalian-stylebitterliqueuratSidetrackDistilleryinKent,WA.
BLENDEDFAMILIES
Allliqueursareblends,eventhosewithaprimaryflavor.Atouchofvanillaisaddedtocrèmedecacaotoemphasizethechocolate.Citrusflavornotessharpenthepresentationofanise.Herballiqueursmaycontaindozensofdifferentflavorelementsthatamasterblendermanipulatestoachievethedesiredflavorprofile.
MapleLiqueurbySalishSeaOrganicLiqueursearnedaGoldMedalintheAmericanDistillingIntitute’s2018InternationalJudgingofCraftSpirits.
RaspberryLiqueurbySkipRockDistillersearnedaGoldMedalintheAmericanDistillingInstitute’s2018InternationalJudgingofCraftSpirits.
HelgolanderGermanstyleHerbalLiqueurbytheDampfwerkDistilleryCo.earnedaGoldMedalintheAmericanDistillingInstitute’s2018InternationalJudgingofCraftSpirits.
BlackWalnutLiqueurbyWoodHatSpiritsearnedaGoldMedalintheAmericanDistillingIntitute’s2018InternationalJudgingofCraftSpirits.
A.vanWeesDeOoievaarfruitliqueurfromtheNetherlands.
RosolisZiolowyGorzkiisarose-flavoredstomachbittersfromtheLancutDistilleryinPoland.
Liqueurscanbehardtoclassify,butregardlessofflavortheycanbebroadlydividedintotwocategories.Genericsareliqueursofaparticulartype(crèmedecacaoorcuraçao,forexample)thatcanbemadebyanyproducer.Proprietariesareliqueurswithtrademarkednamesthataremadeaccordingtoaspecificformula.ExamplesofsuchliqueursincludeKahlúa,GrandMarnier,andSouthernComfort.
SCHNAPPSSchnappsisageneraltermusedforanassortmentofwhiteandflavoredspiritsthathaveoriginatedinnortherncountriesorregions,suchasGermanyorScandinavia.Schnappscanbemadefromgrain,potatoes,ormolassesandcanbeflavoredwithvirtuallyanything(watermelonandrootbeerschnappsfromtheUnitedStatesbeingproofofthat).Thedividinglinebetweenschnappsandflavoredvodkaisvagueandismoreculturalthanstylistic.
LabelforJohnnyZieglerBlackForestStyleAppleAuxPommelSchnappsEaudeViebyWine-gardenEstateinNewBrunswick,Canada.
LabelforBlackberryLiqueurbyClearCreekDistillery.
ANISE-FLAVOREDSPIRITSThesespiritscanvarywidelyinstyle,dependingonthecountryoforigin.Theycanbedryorverysweet,loworhighproof,distilledfromfermentedaniseedormaceratedinneutralspirit.
InFrance,anis(asproducedbyPernod)isproducedbydistillinganiseandavarietyofotherbotanicalstogether.Pastisismacerated,ratherthandistilled,andcontainsfewerbotanicalsthananis.InItaly,sambucaisdistilledfromaniseandbotanicals,butitisthenheavilysweetenedtomakeitaliqueur.Oiloffennel(alsoknownasgreenanise)isfrequentlyaddedtoboostthearomaofthespirit.Greecehasadrier,grappa-likeliqueurcalledouzo,whichisstylisticallyclosetopastis.
AbsentMindedisanorganicabsinthebyWigleWhiskey,inPittsburgh,PA.
WildcardAbsinthebyOregonSpiritDistillers,earnedaDouble-GoldMedal,BestofCategoryandBestofClassattheAmericanDistillingInstitute’s9thAnnualJudgingofCraftAmericanSpirits.
BlackNoteAmarobyTurinVermouth,Italy.
AbsintheVertebySt.GeorgeSpirits.
AbsintheVertebyLeopoldBros.
ABSINTHEMAKESTHEHEARTGROWFONDER
Modernpastisisthegenteeldescendentofitsmuchmoreraffishnineteenth-centuryancestorabsinthe,ahigh-(sometimesveryhigh)proofaniseliquor(technicallynotaliqueurbecausenosugarisadded)thatincludedextractofwormwoodinitslistofbotanicals.Wormwoodcontainsthechemicalcompoundthujone,whoseallegedpsychedeliceffectsmadeabsintheverypopularamongthebohemiancountercultureartistsandintellectualsofFranceandEurope(VincentvanGoghandOscarWildeweredevoteesofwhatwastermedtheGreenFairy).Conversely,socialconservativesandprohibitionistscampaignedagainstitasthecrackcocaineofitsdayandeventuallygotitoutlawedinmostEuropeancountriesandtheUnitedStates.Modernscientificanalysishasfoundthujone’spsychedelicpotencytobe,atbest,greatlyexaggeratedandmanydistillersclaimmostofthethujoneinabsinthecomesfromaniseandnotwormwood.
Forbiddenfruitisalwaysappealing,andstartinginthe1990s,absinthe,whichcontinuedtobecommerciallyproducedinEasternEurope,slowlystartedtoreturntothegeneralmarketplace,initiallyin“thujone-free”versionsfromFranceandSwitzerland.WhenabsinthewasagainlegalizedintheU.S,St.GeorgeSpiritsinAlameda,California,jumpedintobethefirstbrandapprovedandmanyothershavefollowedsuit.Onethingthathasnotchangedaboutabsintheisitshighalcoholcontent.
KevinHersonmakesthreedifferentstylesofabsintheatDocHerson’sNaturalSpirits,Brooklyn,NY.
BITTERSANDAMARIThemodern-daydescendantsofmedievalmedicalpotions,bittersaremarketedashavingatleastsomevaguelytherapeuticvalue(stomachsettlers,hangovercures,andsoon).Theytendtobeflavoredwithherbs,roots,andbotanicalsandcontainlowerquantitiesoffruitandsugarthanliqueurs.
TheFarmaceuticadiSantaMariaNovella,inFlorence,Italy,foundedin1612,producesamari(pluralofamaro:Italianbitterliqueurs)fromrecipesthatdatebacktothe17thcentury.SomeEuropeanaperitifsanddigestifshavebeenliftedfromobscurityinrecentyearsfromactivemarketingcampaigns.FernetBranca,anotherItalianamarofromMilanhasgainedpopularitywithAmericanbartendersforanend-of-the-nightshot.JägermeisterwasaGermanoldman’sdrink,mostoftenservedatroomtemperatureinsmallquantitiestowarmabodyoncold,dampwinterdays,untilaclevermarketingcampaignmadeitpopularasashooterservedcolderthananicecubetoAmericancollegestudents.
Thesedigestifs—rangingfromthedryUnicumfromHungarytothesweetBecherovkafromtheCzechRepublic—areproducedinalmosteverycountryinEurope,whilenewAmericanproducersaregettingintothegame.
ItalianimmigrantFrancescoAmodeofoundedDonCiccio&FigliwithrecipeshisfamilyproducedandsoldontheAmalfiCoastfrom1883untilanearthquakedestroyedtheproductionfacilityin1980.HisplantinWashington,DC,produceslimoncelloandavarietyofamari.AnotherDC-basedamaroproducer,FoundingSpirits,makesamaroatananodistilleryinsidetheFoundingFarmersrestaurant.FernetMichaud,byLiquidRiotinPortland,Maine,isanotherfineexampleofamoderncraftdistilleryproducingtheirownversionofaEuropeanclassic.UndergroundHerbalSpirit,producedbyOgden’sOwninUtah,isalsoanoteworthyexampleofthestyle.
Asbartendersscouredthrough19th-centuryrecipeslookingforclassiccocktailstorevive,spiritsproducershavescrambledtoresurrectlong-lostspirits,oftenfoundin19th-centurypharmacynotebooks.St.Germainelderflowerliqueurrocketedtopopularitywhenitcaughtthefancyofbartenders.TheWoodinville,Washington,distillerybroVoSpiritscreatedalineofmorethanadozenamaribyworkingwithindividualbartenderstocreatetheirdreamamaro.
Althoughtherearespecialtyliqueurproducers,mostbrandsareproducedbygeneraldistillersaspartofanextendedproductline.Amongthenewgeneration
generaldistillersaspartofanextendedproductline.Amongthenewgenerationofcraftdistillers,someofthestandoutliqueurproducersincludeLeopoldBrothersDistilleryofDenver,Colorado,withtheirdistinctivewhiskey-basedfruitliqueurs(theRockyMountainBlackberryisparticularlynoteworthy);FlagHillWineryandDistilleryinLee,NewHampshire,withtheirdelicatelytingedSugarMapleLiqueur;andSidetrackDistillery,inKent,Washington,whoproduceavarietyofeauxdevieandliqueursusingproducefromthefarmadjacenttothedistillery.
SomeoftheamarirecipesavailableforpurchasefromtheFarmaceuticadiSantaMariaNovella,Florence,Italy,datebackmorethan400years.
RockyMountainPeachFlavoredWhiskeybyLeopoldBros.
ToddLeopoldishighlyregardedamonghisfellowdistillersforholdinghighstandardsandrenovatingoldtechniques,includingfloormaltingandrecreatinga19th-centurystyleof
chamberedstill.LeopoldBros.fruit-flavoredwhiskeysareamonghishighlyacclaimedspirits.
FrancescoAmodeo,left,andJonathanFasanoatDonCiccio&Figli,arectifiermakingamariandotherItalianliqueursfromoldfamilyrecipes,inWashington,DC.
Chapter10
DISTILLINGRESOURCES
BEFOREyouaregoingtowalkthewalk,youfirstneedtolearnthetalk.
TheDistiller’sLibraryisabibliographyofEnglish-languagebooksondistillingandthevarioustypesofspirits.Ifyouhaven’talreadyfoundwhatyouwantinthisbook,well,hereareawholelotofalternativesources.
TheDistiller’sGlossarywillhelpyousortouttheindustryjargonthatissprinkledthroughoutthetextofthisbook.Learningthemeaningofthetermslobberbox,alone,isworththepriceofadmission.
Andfinally,theInternationalDirectoryofDistilleriesisalinktothemostcomprehensiveworldwidelistingofoperatingwhiskeyandcraftdistilleriesasmaintainedbytheAmericanDistillingInstitute.Somanytotsofwhiskeytosample,solittletime.
THEDISTILLER’SLIBRARY
WHENitcomestolearningaboutwhattheymake,craftbrewershaveitrelativelyeasy.SinceMichaelJackson’sfirstbookonbeercameoutintheearly1980s,therehasbeenasteadyfloodofconsumerandprofessionalbooksonbeerandbrewingarrivingonthemarket.Notsoforspiritsuntilfairlyrecently.Theselectionisbetterthanitusedtobe.Hereisabibliographicsummaryofwhatisavailable.
NOTE:Notallofthesebooksarecurrentlyinprint,butasofthisbook’spublication,theywereallavailablethroughAmazon.comorAlibrus.com.Thereviewcommentsaresolelytheopinionsoftheeditor,AlanDikty.
AbartendereyesherpourcarefullywhileservingthreeBloodonSandcocktails.
DISTILLEDSPIRITS,GENERALBlue,AnthonyDias.
THECOMPLETEBOOKOFSPIRITS.
NewYork:HarperCollinsPublishers,2004.
Wide-rangingreviewofallmajorcategoriesofspiritsbyawell-knownbeverageandlifestylewriter,withtastingnotesandcocktailrecipes.Itsusefulnessismarredbytrulyawfulcopyediting.
Dikty,AlanS.
BUYINGGUIDETOSPIRITS.
NewYork:SterlingPublishing,1999.
Concisebutdetailedchaptersonallspiritscategories,withthousandsoftastingnotes.UsedasatrainingmanualforthesalesforceofthelargestliquorwholesalerintheUnitedStates.Written,withacertaindrywit,bytheeditorofthisbook.
Henriques,E.Frank.
THESIGNETENCYCLOPEDIAOFWHISKEY,BRANDY&ALLOTHERSPIRITS.
NewYork:Signet,NewAmericanLibrary,1979.
CliffsNotesforbarmanagement:quickbutinformativereferencedescriptionsandexplanationsforthousandsofspirittypes,brandsandcocktails.Outofprint,butworthsearchingout.
Lembeck,Harriet.
GROSSMAN’SGUIDETOWINES,BEERS,ANDSPIRITS.
NewYork:CharlesScribner’sSons,1983.
Thegrandoldreferenceguidetoalcoholicbeverages:thespiritssectionisstillagoodintroductiontoallthemajorandmany,manyoftheminorcategoriesandbrands.
Owens,Bill,ed.
WORLDGUIDETOWHISKEYDISTILLERIES.
WhiteMulePress,2009.www.distilling.com
Acompletelistingofwhiskeydistilleries.
Price,PamelaVandyke.
ADIRECTORYOFWINESANDSPIRITS.
London:PeerageBooks,1986.
Morewinethanspiritsoriented,butanyreferencebookthattellsthetruthaboutSouthernComfort(itcontainsnobourbon)isworthwhile.
Hydrometersformeasuringalcoholcontentofdistillates.
DISTILLEDSPIRITS,HISTORYBarr,Andrew.
DRINK:ASOCIALHISTORYOFAMERICA.
NewYork:Carroll&GrafPublishers,1999.Breezybutwell-researchedhistoryofdrinkingintheUnitedStates,combinedwithdrollput-downsofprohibitionistspastandespeciallypresent.
Fleming,Alice.
ALCOHOL:THEDELIGHTFULPOISON.
NewYork:Laurel-LeafLibrary,DellPublishing,1975.
ShorthistoryofworldandAmericanspirits,followedbyanextendedessayonthephysicaleffects(positiveandnegative)ofalcohol.
Forbes,R.J.
SHORTHISTORYOFTHEARTOFDISTILLATION.
Leiden:E.J.Brill,1948.
WhiteMulePressreprintingofaDutchhistoryofdistillationfromPtolemaicEgypttotheadventofcolumndistillationinthemid-19thcentury.Many,manyillustrations.
Gately,Ian.
DRINK:ACULTURALHISTORYOFALCOHOL.
NewYork:GothamBooks,2009.
Excellentworldhistoryofthedevelopmentofthedrinkingofalcoholandhowitsproduction,includingdistilling,hasinfluencedvariouscultures.
Ganong,Niki.
THEFIELDGUIDETODRINKINGINAMERICA:ATRAVELER’SHANDBOOKTOSTATELIQUORLAWS.
Portland,OR:OvercupPress,2015.
Planningonsellingyourcraftspiritsacrossstatelines?Thisbreezy,graphic-heavyconsumerguidecontainsasurprisingamountofusefulinformationonthelocalquirksofsellingalcoholinall50states.
Heron,Craig.
BOOZE:ADISTILLEDHISTORY.
Toronto:BetweentheLines,2003.
AhistoryofliquorinCanada,writtenfromafeminist,politicallycorrect(!)pointofview.Lotsofinformativehistory,eh?
Lender,MarkEdward,andJamesKirbyMartin.
DRINKINGINAMERICA:AHISTORY.
NewYork:TheFreePress,1982.
Conventionalbutwell-writtensurveyofliquordrinkingintheUnitedStates,fromColonialtimestothepresent.Heavilyillustrated.
Logsdon,Gene.
GOODSPIRITS.
WhiteRiverJunction,VT:ChelseaGreen,1999.
AsocialhistoryofdistillationintheUnitedStates,andacallforhomedistillation.Theauthorisabitofacrank,butwriteswell.
Moss,RobertF.
SOUTHERNSPIRITS:FOURHUNDREDYEARSOFDRINKINGINTHEAMERICANSOUTH,WITHRECIPES.
Berkeley:TenSpeedPress,2016.
AsocialhistoryofdrinkingspiritsintheAmericanSouthfromColonialtimesthroughtothepresentbourbonwhiskeyboom,withmanycocktailrecipes.
Rorabaugh,W.J.
THEALCOHOLREPUBLIC:ANAMERICANTRADITION.
NewYork:OxfordUniversityPress,1979.
IntheUnitedStates,1790to1830wasthehightideofspiritsconsumption.Everyonedrank,therewerenoexcisetaxes,alldistilleriesweresmallandlocalandbestofall,therewasnoorganizedtemperancemovement.Ah,thegoodolddays!
Spivak,Mark.
ICONICSPIRITS:ANINTOXICATEDHISTORY.
Guilford,CT:LyonsPress,2012.
Abreezyhistoryofhowtwelvespirits,frommoonshinetotequila,influencedworldhistory,writtenbyanNPRpresenterfortheNPRcrowd—youknowwhoyouare.
Waxman,Max.
CHASINGTHEWHITEDOG.
Simon&Schuster,2009.
TracingthehistoricalrootsofmoonshinethroughthebackwoodsoftheUnitedStates.
Wilson,Jason.
BOOZEHOUND:ONTHETRAILOFTHERARE,THEOBSCURE,ANDTHEOVERRATEDINSPIRITS.
Berkeley:TenSpeedPress,2010.
Aveterannewspaperbeveragecolumnistsurveysthecurrentspiritsmarketscene,dishessomecocktailrecipes,andpricksmorethanafewmarketingbubbles.
DISTILLEDSPIRITS,MEDICINALEFFECTSCenterforScienceinthePublicInterest.
CHEMICALADDITIVESINBOOZE.
Washington,DC:CSPIBooks,1982.
TheCSPIisanotoriouscollectionofpublicscolds,andnofriendtodistilledspirits.Buttheirchemicalanalysisofassortedbrandsofwines,spirits,andbeersmakesinterestingreading.Hint:Stayawayfromanyliqueurwiththewordcrèmeinthebrandname.
Chafetz,MorrisE.
LIQUOR:THESERVANTOFMAN.
Boston:LittleBrown,1965.
Don’tletdrunkenfoolsscrewitupfortherestofus,explainedin223pages.
Ford,Gene.
THEBENEFITSOFMODERATEDRINKING:ALCOHOL,HEALTH,&SOCIETY.
SanFrancisco:WineAppreciationGuild,1988.
Listentoyourdoctor.Wine(andspirits)inmoderationaregoodforyou.
DISTILLEDSPIRITS,PHILOSOPHYAllhoff,Fritz,ed.
WHISKEYANDPHILOSOPHY.
JohnWiley&Sons,2009.
Philosophyofconsuminganddiscussionofwhiskey.
Amis,Kingsley.
ONDRINK.
NewYork:HarcourtBraceJovanovich,1972.
OneofBritain’sgreatpostwarnovelistsdiscussesthepurposeofdrinkinginaseriesofessayswherethewitisasdryashisrecipeforamartini.
DeVoto,Bernard.
THEHOUR.
Boston:HoughtonMifflin,1951.
OneoftheUnitedStates’sgreatliterarycriticsofthetwentiethcenturyexplainstheimportanceofgoodwhiskeyinacivilsociety,alongwiththeimportanceofaproperlymademartiniin“theviolettwilightofeachday—thecocktailhour.”
Edmunds,Lowell.
THESILVERBULLET.
Westport,CT:GreenwoodPress,1981.
ThemartiniasamirrorofAmerica’ssoul.Sevenmessagesfromthecocktailshaker.
Hundredsofbottlesofspiritslinethewallsintheultimatewell-stockedbar.
DISTILLEDSPIRITS,PRODUCTIONBarleycorn,Michael.
MOONSHINER’SMANUAL.
Hayward,CA:WhiteMulePress,2009.www.distilling.com.
Homedistillationforbeginners.
Byrn,M.Lafayette.
THECOMPLETEPRACTICALDISTILLER.
ChagrinFalls,OH:RaudinsPublishing,2002.www.raudins.com
Reprintingof1875distilleryoperationsmanualthatcontainsalotofstill-usefulinformationforasmall-scalepotdistiller.
Hall,Harrison.
THEDISTILLER.
SanFrancisco:KnowledgeArtsMedia,2013.
WhiteMulePress2015reprintofan1818professionaldistiller’smanual.Includesachapteron“TheImitationofForeignSpirits.”
Hoefling,BrianD.
DISTILLEDKNOWLEDGE:THESCIENCEBEHINDDRINKING’SGREATESTMYTHS,LEGENDS,ANDUNANSWEREDQUESTIONS.
NewYork:AbbevillePress,2016.
Whatgoesintoabottleofalcohol,andwhatitdoestoyourbodyandthatofthezebrafinch.
M’Harry,Samuel.
PRACTICALDISTILLER.
ChagrinFalls,OH:RaudinsPublishing,2001.
Reprintingof1809(!)Americandistillingmanual.Learnaboutdistillingtechniquesfromtheeraofthebirthofbourbon.Fascinatingreading.Orderatwww.raudins.com.
Goldsmith,DavidJ.
APRACTICALHANDBOOKONTHEDISTILLATIONOFALCOHOLFROMFARMPRODUCTS.
Amsterdam:FredoniaBooks,2001.
Reprintof1922distillingmanualfirstpublishedduringnationalProhibition.Justremember,folks:don’tdrinkit,becausethatwouldbeillegal,wink,wink.Orderatwww.fredoniabooks.com.
Murtaugh,Dr.JohnE.
THEALCOHOLTEXTBOOK.
Nottingham,UK:NottinghamUniversityPress,2003.
Commercial-scaleethanolandbeveragealcoholproductiontechniquesandreferencecharts.Notforlightreading.
Nixon,Mike,andMikeMcGaw.
THECOMPLEATDISTILLER.
Auckland,NZ:AmphoraSociety,2001.AdvancedhomedistillingfromNewZealand.Lotsofpracticalinformationfornewbies.
Owens,Bill.
CRAFTWHISKEYDISTILLING.
Hayward,CA:WhiteMulePress,2009.
www.distilling.com.Compactsummaryofthesmall-scaledistillingprocess.Heavilyillustrated.
Rogers,Adam.
PROOF:THESCIENCEOFBOOZE.
HoughtonMifflinHarcourt,2014.
Theproductionprocessingandeffectsofbeveragealcoholexplained.Geeky,butinagoodway.
Rowley,Matthew.
MOONSHINE.
LarkBooks,2006.
Howtobuildastillathome.
Russell,Inge,ed.
WHISKEYTECHNOLOGY.
AcademicPress,2003.
Handbookofalcoholicbeverages.
Smiley,Ian.
MAKINGPURECORNWHISKEY:APROFESSIONALGUIDEFORAMATEURANDMICRODISTILLERS.
AmphoraSociety,2003.www.home-distilling.com.
Acrashcourseinsmall-scaledistillingfromNewZealand,thehomelandofmodernmoonshining.
Stone,John.
MAKINGGIN&VODKA.
Vancouver,BC:JohnStone,1997.www.gin-vodka.com
Advancedhome-distillingtechniquesforwhitespirits.
Advancedhome-distillingtechniquesforwhitespirits.
BRANDYANDEAUDEVIEBehrendt,Axel,andBibianaBehrendt.
COGNAC.
NewYork:AbbevillePress,1997.
Detailedtastingnotesandhistoriesformorethanahundredproducers.
Behrendt,Axel,andBibianaBehrendt.
GRAPPA:AGUIDETOTHEBEST.
NewYork:AbbevillePress,2000.
ExtensivelyresearchedguidetoItalianpomacebrandy.Detailedtastingnotesandproducerhistories.
Boudin,Ove.
GRAPPA:ITALYBOTTLED.
Partille:PianoFortePublishing,2007.
Coffee-tablepicturebookcrossedwithasurprisinglydetailedexplanationofhowgrappaisproducedinItalyandwhodoesit.
Brown,Gordon.
HANDBOOKOFFINEBRANDIES.
NewYork:Macmillan,1990.
British-orientedguidetothebrandiesoftheworld.Oddbarchartproductratings,butstillagoodgeneraloverviewofthesubject.
Calabrese,Salvatore.
COGNAC:ALIQUIDHISTORY.
London:Cassel,2001.
Bigtype,lotsofprettypictures,butstillausefulreferencework,withintelligenttastingnotes.
APing-PongtableatSt.George’sSpiritskeepsthehardest-workingdistillersentertainedandontheirtoesinthedistillery.
Germain-Robin,Hubert.
TRADITIONALDISTILLATION:ARTANDPASSION.
Hayward:WhiteMulePress,2012.
ApioneerCaliforniabrandydistiller,withfamilyrootsinCognac,musesonbrandydistillationandproductiontechniques.
Germain-Robin,Hubert.
THEMATURATIONOFDISTILLEDSPIRITS:VISIONANDPATIENCE.
Hayward:WhiteMulePress,2016.
Asixth-generationnativeofCognacrevealscellarmasters’techniquesfornurturingflavorcreationinthebarrel.
Hannum,Hurst,andRobertS.Blumberg.
BRANDIESANDLIQUEURSOFTHEWORLD.
GardenCity,NJ:Doubleday,1976.
Well-writtenandstillusefuloverviewofthebrandiesoftheworld.
Herbert,Malcolm.
CALIFORNIABRANDYCUISINE.
SanFrancisco:WineAppreciationGuild,1984.
Primarilyacookingandmixed,drinkrecipebook,italsocontainshistoricalnotesontheCaliforniabrandyindustrypriortothearrivalofmoderncraftdistillers.
Mattsson,Henrik.
CALVADOS:THEWORLD’SPREMIERAPPLEBRANDY.
FlavourriderAB,2004.
ASwedishwriter’sintroductiontotheapplebrandiesofNormandy,France.Bothabrandyandtravelguide,andgoodatboth.
Neal,Charles.
ARMAGNAC:THEDEFINITIVEGUIDETOFRANCE’SPREMIERBRANDY.
SanFrancisco:FlameGrapePress,1998.
ExhaustiveguidetoeverycommercialdistilleryinArmagnac,mostofwhicharetinyfarmdistilleries.Theauthorloveshistopic,hatesinferiorproductiontechniques,andletsyouknowexactlywhathethinks.
Nicholas,Faith.
COGNAC.
London:MitchellBeazley,2005.
Typicalflashy-lookingMitchellBeazleybeveragebook.Quickhistory,lotsoftastingnotesonpriceyXOs.
Page,C.E.
ARMAGNAC:THESPIRITOFGASCONY.
London:Bloomsbury,1990.
Standard,British-centeredguidetoArmagnac.Tourandtastingnotes.
Ray,Cyril.
COGNAC.
NewYork:Stein&Day,1973.
Well-knownBritishwinewriterpresentsadrollhistoryofFrance’sbestknownbrandy.
GINCoates,Geraldine.
DISCOVERINGGIN.
London:NewLifestylePublishing,1996.
Flashygraphicsandhistorylitetextonthesocialhistoryofgin.
Dillon,Patrick.
GIN:THEMUCH-LAMENTEDDEATHOFMADAMGENEVA.
Boston:Justin,Charles,2003.
Thestoryoftheeighteenth-centurygincrazeinEnglandisevenstrangerthanyoucanimagine.
Emmons,Bob.
THEBOOKOFGINS&VODKAS.
Chicago:OpenCourt,2000.
Quickbutcomprehensiveintroductiontothetwoprimarywhitespirits.
Smith,DavidT.
FORGOTTENSPIRITS&LOSTLIQUEURS.
Hayward:WhiteMulePress,2015.
Non–LondonDryGinvarietiesandso-old-they’re-new-againtypesofbittersdescribedandexplained,pluslotsofcocktailrecipestoshowwhatyoucandowiththem.
Watney,John.
MOTHER’SRUIN:THESTORYOFGIN.
London:PeterOwen,1976.
ThesocialhistoryofgininEngland.Sloeginexplained!
LIQUEURANDBITTERSConrad,Barnaby.
ABSINTHE:HISTORYINABOTTLE.
SanFrancisco:ChronicleBooks,1988.
Thecrackcocaineofitstime,butintruth,muchmaligned.Asocialhistoryofthe“GreenFairy.”
Parsons,BradThomas.
BITTERS:ASPIRITEDHISTORYOFACLASSICCURE-ALL.
Berkeley:TenSpeedPress,2011.
Acrashcourseinbitters,whattheyare,whomakesthemandhowtousethem.
Walton,Stuart.
THENEWGUIDETOSPIRITSANDLIQUEURS.
London:LorenzBooks,2000.
Well-organizedreferenceguidetoliqueursandhowtomixthem.
White,Francesca.Cheers!
ASPIRITEDGUIDETOLIQUORSANDLIQUEURS.
London:PaddingtonPress,1977.
Capsuleexplanationsofmanyliqueurs,wellknownandobscure.
RUMArkell,Julie.
CLASSICRUM.
London:PrionBooks,1999.
Quick-movingsurveyofrumsoftheworld,withanemphasisontheCaribbean.
Ayala,Luis.
THERUMEXPERIENCE.
RoundRock,TX:RumRunnerPress,2001.
EnthusiasticguidetotherumsoftheAmericas.Highlyopinionated.
Barty-King,Hugh,andAntonMassel.
RUM:YESTERDAYANDTODAY.
London:Heinemann,1983.
Serioushistoryofruminallofitsmajormarkets.
Broom,Dave.
RUM.
London:MitchellBeazley,2003.
Morespecifically,rumsoftheCaribbeanforBritdrinkers.Lotsofprettypictures.
Coulombe,CharlesA.
RUM:THEEPICSTORYOFTHEDRINKTHATCONQUEREDTHEWORLD.
NewYork:CitadelPress,2004.
ThepoliticalhistoryofrumfromaCatholicperspective.(Really!)
Gelabert,Blanche.
THESPIRITOFPUERTORICANRUM.
SanJuan:DiscoveryPress,1992.
CookingandmixingdrinkswithPuertoRicanrum.
AbottleofNorthernComfortMassachusettsLiqueursitsonthecounteratNashobaDistillery.
Hamilton,Edward.
THECOMPLETEGUIDETORUM.
Chicago:TriumphPress,1996.
Ayacht-cruisingtouroftherumsoftheCaribbean.Agreatread.
Hamilton,Edward.
RUMSOFTHEEASTERNCARIBBEAN.
Culebra,PR:TafiaPublishing,1997.
TheMinisterofRumrecyclesTheCompleteGuidetoRum.
Pack,Capt.James
NELSON’SBLOOD:THESTORYOFNAVALRUM.
Annapolis:NavalInstitutePress,1983.
RumasatoolofsocialcontrolintheRoyalNavy.So,howmuchisatotofrum?
Plotkin,Robert.
CARIBERUM:THEORIGINALGUIDETOCARIBBEANRUMANDDRINKS.
Tucson:BarMedia,2001.
Many,manymixeddrinkrecipes,uniformlyenthusiasticproductreviews,andavery,veryannoyingpagelayoutfeaturingawingedheart(don’task).
Smiley,Ian;Watson,EricandMichaelDelevante.
THEDISTILLER’SGUIDETORUM.
Hayward:WhiteMulePress,2013.
Abriefhistoryofrum,followedbyadetailedexplanationoftheingredientsandvariousproductiontechniquesusedinthedistillationofrum.Agood,detailedintroductiontorumproductionforentry-leveldistillersanddetail-obsessedrumenthusiasts.
TheGeorgeWashingtonDistillery.
TEQUILA
Emmons,Bob.
THEBOOKOFTEQUILA:ACOMPLETEGUIDE.
Chicago:OpenCourt,1997.
Truthinadvertising.Excellentintroductiontothehistoryandproductionoftequila.Brandlistingsarenowsomewhatdated,butstillveryuseful.
MartinezLimon,Enrique.
TEQUILA:THESPIRITOFMEXICO.
NewYork:AbbevillePress,2000.Extensivelyillustratedconsumerguidetotheproductionandbrandsoftequila.
Sanchez,AlbertoRuy,andMargaritadeOrellana.
TEQUILA:ATRADITIONALARTOFMEXICO.
Washington:SmithsonianBooks,2004.
Breezy,lightweightguidetocurrentbrandsoftequila.Lotsofdrinkrecipes.
Valenzuela-Zapata,AnaG.,andGaryPaulNabhan.
TEQUILA!ANATURALANDCULTURALHISTORY.
Tucson:TheUniversityofArizonaPress,2003.
Tequilaasseenthroughtheeyesofplantbiologists.
VODKABegg,Desmond.
THEVODKACOMPANION.
Philadelphia:RunningPress,1998.
Quickhistoryofvodkawithextensivetastingnotes.
Delos,Gilbert.
VODKASOFTHEWORLD.
Edison,NJ:WellfleetPress,1998.
Excellentsurveyofvodkasandaquavit.
Wisniewski,Ian.
VODKA:DISCOVERING,EXPLORING,ENJOYING.
London:RylandPeters&Small,2003.
Astylishmagazinearticleonvodkaturnedintoaveryshortbook.
WHISKEY,GENERALGabanyi,Stefan.
WHISK(E)Y.
NewYork:AbbevillePress,1997.
EnglishtranslationofaGermanguidetothewhiskeysoftheworld.Thousandsofbrandsandtermslistedandexplained.Excellentquick-referenceguide.
Jackson,Michael.
WHISKEY.
NewYork:DorlingKindersley,2005.
Heavilydetailedandbeautifullylaid-outguidetothewhiskeysoftheworld,includingthenewcraftdistillers.Requiredadditiontoanyseriousdistiller’slibrary.
Jackson,Michael.
THEWORLDGUIDETOWHISKY.
Topsfield,MA:SalemHousePublishers,1988.TheBardofBrew’sfirsttakeonthewhiskeysofScotland,Ireland,Canada,theUnitedStates,andJapan.AworthycompaniontohisseminalTheWorldGuidetoBeer.
MacLean,Charles.
WHISKEY(EYEWITNESSCOMPANIONS).
London:DorlingKindersley,2008.
Lightweightbutup-to-datelistingofallmajorandasprinklingofsmallerwhiskeydistilleriesworldwide,withlimitedtastingnotes.HeavilyillustratedinthepatentDKpublicationstyle.
Murphy,Brian.
THEWORLDBOOKOFWHISKEY.
Chicago:RandMcNally&Co.,1979.
Interestingviewofthewhiskeysoftheworldjustbeforethelatetwentieth-centuryrashofmergers,closures,andbrandchanges.Aprèsmoi,ledeluge.
AnoldtruckoutsideStranahan’sColoradoWhiskey.
Murray,Jim.
THECOMPLETEGUIDETOWHISKEY.
Chicago:TriumphBooks,1997.
MoreproperlyaguidetoScotch,Irish,Canadian,andAmericanwhiskeys,andthedistilleriesthatmakethem.Goodcapsulehistoriesofthedistillerieswithminimaltastingnotes.
Murray,Jim.
JIMMURRAY’SWHISKEYBIBLE.
London:CarltonBooks.2006todate—Annualupdates.
Closetoall-encompassingpockettastingguidetotheworld’swhiskeysfromBritain’sotherleadingspiritswriter.
WHISKEY,AMERICAN—GENERALGetz,Oscar.
WHISKEY:ANAMERICANPICTORIALHISTORY.
NewYork:DavidMcKay,1978.
ExcellentpictorialhistoryofliquoranddistillinginAmericansociety.
Waymack,MarkH.,andJamesF.Harris.
THEBOOKOFCLASSICAMERICANWHISKEYS.
Chicago:OpenCourt,1995.
ConcisehistoryofAmericanwhiskeyandcurrentdistillerieswithdetailedtastingnotes.
WHISKEY,AMERICAN—BIOGRAPHYGreen,BenA.
JACKDANIEL’SLEGACY.
Nashville:RichPrinting,1967.
Quasi-officialbiographyofthefounderofAmerica’sleadingwhiskeydistillery.
Krass,Peter.Blood&Whiskey:
THELIFEANDTIMESOFJACKDANIEL.
Hoboken,NJ:JohnWiley&Sons,2004.
InterestinganalysisofthelifeofJackDanielandhisbusinessworld.
McDougall,JohnandGavinD.Smith.
WORT,WORMS&WASH-BACKS:MEMOIRSFROMTHESTILLHOUSE.
Glasgow:Angel’sShare,1999.
AsortofKitchenConfidentialoftheScotchdistillingindustry,withmanydrollandscore-settlinganecdotesfromaveterandistilleranddistillerymanager.
Pacult,F.Paul.
AMERICANSTILLLIFE:THEJIMBEAMSTORY.
Hoboken,NJ:JohnWiley&Sons,2003.
StandardrecapofAmericanwhiskeydistillinghistorywithanemphasisonthegrowthoftheJimBeanDistilleryanditsbrands.
Paterson,Richard,andGavinD.Smith.
GOODNESSNOSE:THEPASSIONATEREVELATIONSOFASCOTCHWHISKYMASTERBLENDER.
Glasgow:Angel’sShare,2010.
TheautobiographyofamasterblenderwhohasworkedatanumberofScotchdistilleriesandhasexperiencedtheboom-and-bustcyclesoftheindustry.
Taylor,Richard.
THEGREATCROSSING:AHISTORICJOURNEYTOBUFFALOTRACEDISTILLERY.
Frankfort,KY:BuffaloTraceDistillery,2002.
Well-writtencompanyhistorywithgoodinsightsintothedevelopmentofbourbondistillinginearlyKentucky.
VanWinkleCampbell,Sally.
BUTALWAYSFINEBOURBON:PAPPYVANWINKLEANDTHESTORYOFOLDFITZGERALD.
Louisville:LimestoneLanePress,1999.
Self-satisfiedfamilyhistorywithlotsofprettypictures.
WHISKEY,AMERICAN—BOURBON&TENNESSEECarson,Gerald.
THESOCIALHISTORYOFBOURBON.
Lexington:UniversityPressofKentucky,1984.
TheevolvingroleofbourboninAmerica’scollectivelifestyle.
Cecil,SamK.
THEEVOLUTIONOFTHEBOURBONWHISKEYINDUSTRYINKENTUCKY.
Paducah,KY:TurnerPublishing,1999.
County-by-countylistingsandcapsulehistoriesofeverydistillerytooperateinKentucky.Anobviouslaboroflove.
Cowdery,CharlesK.
BOURBON,STRAIGHT:THEUNCUTANDUNFILTEREDSTORYOFAMERICANWHISKEY.
Chicago:MadeandBottledinKentucky,2004.
AnindependentandfrequentlyirreverentviewoftheAmericanbourbonindustry.RequiredreadingforallseriousstudentsofAmericanwhiskeydistilling.
Cowdery,CharlesK.
BOURBON,STRANGE:SURPRISINGSTORIESOFAMERICANWHISKEY.
Chicago:MadeandBottledinKentucky,2014.
Acollectionofdroll,idiosyncratic,mostlyhistoricessaysonbourbonwhiskeyandtheAmericanwhiskeyindustry.
Crowgey,HenryG.
KENTUCKYBOURBON:THEEARLYYEARSOFWHISKEYMAKING.
Lexington:UniversityPressofKentucky,2008.
MoreproperlyaremarkablydetailedhistoryofthedevelopmentofcommercialdistillinginColonialAmericaandtheearlyUnitedStates.Substantialoriginalscholarship.WhoknewthatpeachbrandywasonceproducedbymostSouthernwhiskeydistillers?
BarrelsrolloutatWoodfordReserveDistillery.
Barrelssetforagingtequilainthewarehouse/tastingroomattheCasaCofradiaDistillery,inTequila,Jalisco,Mexico.
Givens,Ron.
BOURBONATITSBEST:THELOREANDALLUREOFAMERICA’SFINESTSPIRITS.
Cincinnati:ClerisyPress,2008.
Lavishlyillustratedcoffee-tablebookintroductiontobourbon.
Minnick,Fred.
BOURBONCURIOUS:ASIMPLETASTINGGUIDEFORTHESAVVYDRINKER.
Minneapolis:ZenithPress,2015.
Anditisindeedsimple.
Mitenbuler,Reid.
BOURBONEMPIRE:THEPASTANDFUTUREOFAMERICA’SWHISKEY.
NewYork:PenguinBooks,2015.
Abusiness-orientedhistoryoftheAmericanwhiskeyindustry.Notquiteanexposé,butcertainlyapeekbehindthecurtainsinthestillhousesofanumberofcommercialdistilleries.
Murray,Jim.
CLASSICBOURBON,TENNESSEEANDRYEWHISKEY.
London:PrionBooks,1996.
London:PrionBooks,1996.
AnEnglishmantastesAmericanwhiskeysandlikesthem.Extensivetastingnotes.
Murray,Jim.
JIMMURRAY’SWHISKYBIBLE.
Various:Various,2004todate.
Anannualtastingandratingguidetothewhiskeysoftheworld.Thetastedescriptorscansometimesbeabitexuberant,butthisis,farandaway,themostextensiveandcurrentguidetobrandsofwhiskeyinthemarketplace.
Regan,Gary,andMardeeHaidinRegan.
THEBOOKOFBOURBON.
Shelburne,VT:ChaptersPublishing,1995.
Extensivetastingnotes,somewhatdatedatthispoint,withrecipes.
Regan,Gary,andMardeeHaidinRegan.
THEBOURBONCOMPANION.
Philadelphia:RunningPress,1998.
CliffsNotesforvirtuallyallcurrentbrandsofbourbon.
WHISKY,CANADIANBingham,Madeleine.
KINGOFTHECASTLE:THEMAKINGOFADYNASTY:SEAGRAM’SANDTHEBRONFMANEMPIRE.
NewYork:Athenaeum,1979.
ThedirtonthenowvanisheddominantforceinCanadiandistilling.
Bronfman,Samuel.
FROMLITTLEACORNS:THESTORYOFDISTILLERS
Corporation-Seagram,Ltd.Montreal:DistillersCorporation-SeagramLimited,1970.
TheGrandOldManofCanadiandistillingtellsacleaned-upversionofthehistoryofSeagram’sandCanadianwhiskey.NaryamentionofJoeKennedyandbootlegging.
Brown,Lorraine.
200YEARSOFTRADITION:THESTORYOFCANADIANWHISKY.
Toronto:Fitzhenry&Whiteside,1994.
Anon-Seagram-centrichistoryofCanadianwhisky.Abitontheshortside.
Marrus,MichaelR.
SAMUELBRONFMAN:THELIFEANDTIMESOFSEAGRAM’SMR.SAM.
Boston:UniversityPressofNewEngland,1991.
AcademicanalysisoftheCanadiandistillingindustrythroughanoverviewofthenowdismantledSeagram’swhiskeyempire.
Rannie,WilliamF.
CANADIANWHISKY:THEPRODUCTANDTHEINDUSTRY.
Lincoln,ON:W.F.RanniePublisher,1976.
InterestingsnapshotoftheCanadiandistillingindustryontheeveofthelate-twentieth-centuryindustryconsolidation.
WHISKEY,ASIAVanEycken,Stefan.
WHISKYRISING:THEDEFINITIVEGUIDETOTHEFINESTWHISKIESANDDISTILLERSOFJAPAN.
Kennebunkport,ME:CiderMillPress,2017.
TherapidevolutionofgrainspiritsproductioninJapanfromratherrawwhitespiritssuchasshochutoverysmoothmaturemaltwhiskeysisdetailedinthisinstantstandardreferencework.
Sandhaus,Derek.
BAIJIU:THEESSENTIALGUIDETOCHINESESPIRITS.
Melbourne:PenguinViking,2014.
Theworld’sbest-sellingspirit,byvolumeatleast,isanacquiredtasteformostnon-Chinesedrinkers.Thisenthusiast’sguidetotheproduction,varieties,andmajorbrandsofbaijiuisbriskandtothepoint.
WHISKEY,MOONSHINE—HISTORYCarr,Jess.
THESECONDOLDESTPROFESSION:ANINFORMALHISTORYOFMOONSHININGINAMERICA.
EnglewoodCliffs,NJ:Prentice-Hall,1972.
Thehistoryofmoonshining,primarilyinSouthernstates.
Dabney,JosephEarl.
MOREMOUNTAINSPIRITS.
Asheville,NC:BrightMountainBooks,1980.
Thereismoretomoonshinethanjustcornwhiskey;peachbrandy,forexample.Chock-fullofrecipesandhomemadestilldesigns.
Dabney,JosephEarl.
MOUNTAINSPIRITS.
Asheville,NC:BrightMountainBooks,1974.
AsocialhistoryofAppalachianmoonshinedistillingwithanattitude.Cornwhiskey:good;sugardistillation:bad.
Keller,Esther.
MOONSHINE:ITSHISTORYANDFOLKLORE.
NewYork:WeathervaneBooks,1971.
MoonshineinKentuckyandsouthernIndiana.Lightweight,butentertaining.
Mauer,DavidW.
KENTUCKYMOONSHINE.
Lexington:UniversityPressofKentucky,1974.
Moonshiningasanindustry,fromColonialtimestothepresent.
Owens,Bill.
MODERNMOONSHINETECHNIQUES.
Hayward:WhiteMulePress,2009.
ThefounderoftheAmericanDistillingInstituteexplainshowtobuilda(very)simpledistilleryinyourgarageandmakemoonshine.
Spoelman,Colin,andDavidHaskell.
THEKINGSCOUNTYGUIDETOURBANMOONSHINING:HOWTOMAKEANDDRINKWHISKEY.
NewYork:AbramsBooks,2013.
Inthiscase,inNewYorkCity,ratherthanruralTennessee.Apioneercraftdistillerexplains,ingreatdetail,howahobbybecamealifestyle.
Rowley,Matthew.
LOSTRECIPESOFPROHIBITION.
NewYork:TheCountrymanPress,2015.
AnactualProhibition-eramoonshiner’sproductionmanualreproduced,withannotations.Bathtubginexplained!
WHISKEY,IRISHMagee,Malachy.
IRISHWHISKEY:A1000YEARTRADITION.
Dublin:O’BrienPress,1998.
ShortbutdetailedhistoryofIrishwhiskeydistilling,withcapsulehistoriesofeverycommercialdistilleryinIreland.
McGuffin,John.
INPRAISEOFPOTEEN.
Belfast:ApplegatePress,1978.
Moonshine,Irishstyle.Asisusuallythecase,romantichistoryisbetterthantherathersqualidcurrentstateofaffairs,withkitchenstillsinurbanhousingestatesdistillingfermentedsugarwater.
McGuire,E.B.
IRISHWHISKEY.
Dublin:Gill&Macmillan,1973.
Alast-hurrahviewoftheIrishdistillingindustry,justpriortothefinalindustryconsolidation.
Murray,Jim.
CLASSICIRISHWHISKEY.
London:PrionBooks,1998.
MoreorlesscompletetastingandbuyingguidetoIrishwhiskey,includinglocalbrands.Murraydoestendtolikeeverything,though.
Townsend,Brian.
THELOSTDISTILLERIESOFIRELAND.
Glasgow:NeilWilson,1999.
Companionbooktotheauthor’sScotchMissed:TheLostDistilleriesofScotland,onlysadder.Scotlandstillhasaroundahundreddistilleries,whileIreland,untilrecentindustryrevival,hadbeendowntoonlythree.
WHISKY,SCOTCHBarnard,Alfred.
THEWHISKYDISTILLERIESOFTHEUNITEDKINGDOM.
Edinburgh:Birlinn,2003.
Reprintof1887guidetothedistilleriesofScotland,England,andIreland.Wonderfulwindowintoalong-vanishedworldofdistilling,withmanyengravings.Amust-haveforthehistoricallymindeddistiller.
Brander,Michael.
THEESSENTIALGUIDETOSCOTCHWHISKY.
Edinburgh:CanongatePublishing,1990.
CompactreportonthestateoftheScottishdistillingindustry,circa1990.
Cooper,Derek.
ATASTEOFSCOTCH.
London:AndreDeutsch,1989.
TheroleofScotchwhiskyinvariousfacetsofBritishculture.Lotsofgreatgraphics.
Daiches,David.
SCOTCHWHISKY:ITSPASTANDPRESENT.
NewYork:Macmillan,1970.
TheworldofScotchwhiskydistilling,justpriortothelate-twentieth-centuryshutdowns.
Graham,Duncan,andWendyGraham.
VISITINGDISTILLERIES,2NDEDITION.
Glasgow:Angel’sShare,2003.
DoesyourfavoriteHighlanddistilleryhaveagiftshop?Howcleanistheloo?AllyourWhiskyTrailquestionsareansweredhere.
Greenwood,Malcolm.
ANIPAROUNDTHEWORLD:THEDIARYOFAWHISKYSALESMAN.
Argyll:ArgyllPublishing,1995.
StoriesfromthefrontofwhiskysellinginEurope.Interestingbutshort.
Gunn,NeilM.
WHISKY&SCOTLAND:APRACTICALANDSPIRITUALSURVEY.
Edinburgh:SouvenirPress,1988.
ScotchMaltWhiskySocietyreprintof1935classictomeonScotchwhiskyproductionandhistory.
Hume,JohnR.,andMichaelS.Moss.
THEMAKINGOFSCOTCHWHISKY,REVISEDEDITION.
Edinburgh:Canongate,2000.
AbusinesshistoryofScottishdistilling.Verydetailed,yetwellwritten.
Jackson,Michael.
MICHAELJACKSON’SCOMPLETEGUIDETOSINGLEMALTSCOTCH,5THEDITION.
Philadelphia:RunningPress,2004.
ThebenchmarkguidetosinglemaltScotchwhiskies,withmorethanathousandtastingnotes.Amust-havereferencebook.
Jackson,Michael.
SCOTLANDANDITSWHISKIES.
NewYork:Harcourt,2001.
AtravelguidetothevariousdistillingregionsofScotland.LovelyphotographsandlyricaltextfromBritain’sleadingspiritsandbeerwriter.
Lockhart,SirRobertBruce.
SCOTCH:THEWHISKYOFSCOTLANDINFACTANDSTORY.
London:Putnam,1970.
AstandardhistoryofScotchwhisky,muchused(quotedandotherwise)bysubsequentbooksonthetopic.
MacLean,Charles.
MACLEAN’SMISCELLANYOFWHISKY.
London:LittleBooks,2004.
Acollectionofwhiskey-themedessaysonawidevarietyoftopics.Greatbedsidebook.
MacLean,Charles.
THEMITCHELLBEAZLEYPOCKETWHISKYBOOK.
London:MitchellBeazley,1993.
Pocketguidewithratingsonsinglemalt,grain,andblendedScotchwhiskies.Nowsomewhatdated.
McDougall,John,andGavinD.Smith.
WORT,WORMS&WASH-BACKS:MEMOIRSFROMTHESTILLHOUSE.
Glasgow:Angel’sShare,2000.
Journeymanstillmaster’stalesoflifeinavarietyofScottishdistilleries.Oldslightsandscoresaresettledinamostamusingmanner.
McDowall,R.J.S.
THEWHISKIESOFSCOTLAND.
NewYork:Abelard-Schuman,1967.
Distilleries,blenders,andtheirwhiskeysofthetimearedescribedinextensivedetail,whileAmericanmixersaredenouncedasfoulpollutantsofpuremaltspirits.
Milroy,Wallace.
WALLACEMILROY’SMALTWHISKYALMANAC.
NewYork:St.Martin’sPress,1991.
LimitedtastingnotesonsinglemaltwhiskeysfromanearlyBritishadvocateofthestyle.
Morrice,Philip.
THESCHWEPPESGUIDETOSCOTCH.
Sherborne,UK:Alphabooks,1983.
All-encompassingguidetoeveryScotchdistiller,blender,merchant,bottler,andmarketinggroup.Somewhatoutdatednow,butstillausefulreferenceguide.
Reeve-Jones,Alan.
ADRAMLIKETHIS…
London:ElmTreeBooks,1974.
DrollsocialhistoryofScotchwithextensivemixed-drinkandfoodrecipes.
Townsend,Brian.
SCOTCHMISSED:SCOTLAND’SLOSTDISTILLERIES,3RDEDITION.
Glasgow:Angel’sShare,2004.
ThelifeanddeathofmorethanahundredScottishdistilleriesarechronicledwithphotographsanddirections.Trycross-referencingitwithBarnard’sTheWhiskyDistilleriesoftheUnitedKingdom.
THEDISTILLER’SGLOSSARY
Detailofacharredbarrel.
AGITATOR:Adevicesuchasastirrerthatprovidescompletemixinganduniformdispersionofallcomponentsinamixture.Agitatorsaregenerallyusedcontinuouslyduringthecookingprocessandintermittentlyduringfermentation.
ALCOHOL:Thefamilynameofagroupoforganicchemicalcompoundscomposedofcarbon,hydrogen,andoxygen;includesmethanol,ethanol,isopropylalcohol,andothers.
APPLEJACK:Initsoriginalmeaning,fermentedhardappleciderthatispartiallyfrozentoseparatethewaterfromthealcohol.Inmodernterms,itistheNorthAmericanversionofapplebrandy.
ATMOSPHERICPRESSURE:Pressureoftheairandatmospheresurroundingusthatchangesfromdaytoday.Itisequalto14.7psi.
AUGER:Arotating,screw-typedevicethatmovesmaterialthroughacylinder.Inalcoholproduction,itisusedtotransfergrainsfromstoragetothegrindingsitetothecooker.
BAKER’SYEAST:Standardrobustyeastusedopenlybybakersandquietlybymanydistillers.Thefermentationisquickandviolent,andtheresultingbeeriscloudy.Butthatreallydoesn’tmatterifyouare
goingtodistillit.
BALLING:Onahydrometer,themeasurementofthepercentofsugarinasolution,byweight.SeeBrix.
BARREL:Variesdependingoncountry.InU.S.terms,aunitofliquidmeasureequalto42Americangallonsorabout306pounds;onebarrelequals5.6cubicfeetor0.159cubicmeters.Thestandardbourboncaskusuallyholdsbetween53and55gallonsofspirit.
BATCHDISTILLATION:Aprocessinwhichtheliquidfeedisplacedinasinglecontainerandtheentirevolumeisheated,incontrasttocontinuousdistillation,inwhichtheliquidisfedcontinuouslythroughthestill.
BATCHFERMENTATION:Fermentationconductedfromstarttofinishinasinglevessel.
BATCHPROCESS:Unitoperationwhereonecycleoffeedstockpreparation,cooking,fermentation,anddistillationiscompletedbeforethenextcycleisstarted.
BATF:FormerlytheBureauofAlcohol,Tobacco,andFirearms;undertheU.S.DepartmentofTreasury.Responsiblefortheissuanceofpermits,bothexperimentalandcommercial,fortheproductionofalcohol.Thegunshavebeenremoved,andtheagencyhasbeenrenamedtheAlcoholandTobaccoTaxandTradeBureau(TTB).
BEER:Ageneraltermforallfermentedmaltbeveragesflavoredwithhops.Alow-level(6to12percent)alcoholsolutionderivedfromthefermentationofmashbymicroorganisms.Fordistillers,theinitialfermentedgrainsolutionthatisdistilled.SeeWash.
BEERSTILL:Thestrippingsectionofadistillationcolumnforconcentratingethanol.
BOILER:Aunitbasetoheatwatertoproducesteamforcookinganddistillationprocesses.
BOURBON:WhiskeyproducedwithintheUnitedStatesfromamashcontainingaminimumof51percentcornandthenagedforaminimumof2yearsinanewcharredoakbarrel.Bourboncanbelegallyproducedinanystate.
BRANDY:Generallyspeaking,theresultofdistillinganyfermentedfruitwine.Specifically,theresultofdistillinggrapewine.Fruitbrandiesaremadefromfruitsotherthangrapes,whilefruit-flavoredbrandiesareusuallygrapebrandywithaddedfruitflavors.SeeEaudevieandGrappa.
BREWING:Generically,theentirebeer-makingprocess,buttechnicallyonlythepartoftheprocessduringwhichthebeerwortiscookedinabrewkettleandduringwhichtimethehopsareadded.Afterbrewing,thebeerisfermented.Inagraindistillery,thefermentedwortorwashisfrequentlyreferredtoasbeer.
BRIX:Ameasurementofsweetnessinaliquid,usuallyfruitjuice.Specificallythemeasurementofdissolvedsugar-to-liquidmassratioofaliquid.Asanexample,ina100-gramsolution,a30Brixmeasurementis30gramsofsugarand70gramsofliquid.
BUBBLE-CAPTRAYS:Cross-flowtraysusuallyinstalledinrectifyingcolumnshandlingliquidsfreeofsuspendedsolids.Thebubblecapsconsistofcircularcupsinvertedoversmallvaporpipes.Thevaporfromthetraybelowpassesthroughthevaporpipesintothecapsandcurvesdownwardtoescapebelowtherimintotheliquid.Therimofeachcapisslottedorserratedtobreakuptheescapingvaporintosmallbubbles,therebyincreasingthesurfaceareaofthevaporasitpassesthroughtheliquid.
CACHAÇA:Unaged,rawsugarcanespiritfromBrazil,usuallymixedwithneutralgrainspiritfromothersources.
CANESPIRIT:Thebroadtermforspiritsdistilledfromfermentedsugarcanejuice.SeeCachaçaandRum.
COGNAC:Bylegal-definition,grapebrandyfromtheCognacregionofFrance.
COLUMN:Avertical,cylindricalvesselusedtoincreasethedegreeofseparationofliquidmixturesbydistillationorextraction.
COMPOUND:Achemicaltermdenotingacombinationoftwoormoredistinctelements.
CONCENTRATION:Theratioofmassorvolumeofsolutepresentinasolutiontotheamountofsolvent.Thequantityofethylalcohol(orsugar)presentinaknownquantityofwater.
CONDENSER:Aheat-transferdevicethatreducesathermodynamicfluidfromitsvaporphasetoitsliquidphase.
CONTINUOUSFERMENTATION:Asteady-statefermentationsystemthatoperateswithoutinterruption;eachstageoffermentationoccursinaseparatesectionofthefermenter,andflowratesaresettocorrespondwithrequiredresidencetimes.
COOKER:Atankorvesseldesignedtocookaliquidorextractordigestsolidsinsuspension;thecookerusuallycontainsasourceofheatandisfittedwithanagitator.
COOKING:Theprocessthatbreaksdownthestarchgranulesinthegrain,makingthestarchavailablefortheliquefactionandsaccharificationstepsofthefermentationprocess.
COPRODUCTS:Theresultingsubstancesandmaterialsthataccompanytheproductionofethanolbydistillation.
CORNWHISKEY(LIKKER):Legally:Minimum80percentcornmashwhiskey,agedaminimumof2yearsinusedwoodenbarrels.Illegally:thefresh-from-the-stilloriginalversionofmoonshine.SeeMoonshine.
CROSS-FLOWTRAYS:Liquidflowsacrossthetrayandoveraweirtoadowncomerthatcarriesittothenextlowertray.Vaporsrisefromthebottomofthecolumntothetop,passingthroughthetrayopeningsandthepoolsofcross-flowingliquid.
DENATURE:Theprocessofaddingasubstancetoethylalcoholtomakeitunfitforhumanconsumption;thedenaturingagentmaybegasolineorothersubstancesspecifiedbytheAlcoholandTobaccoTaxandTradeBureau.
DEWATERING:Toremovethefreewaterfromasolidsubstance.
DISTILLATE:Thatportionofaliquidthatisremovedasavaporandcondensedduringadistillationprocess.
LabelforCherryLiqueurbyClearCreekDistillery.
DISTILLATION:Theprocessofseparatingthecomponentsofamixturebydifferencesinboilingpoint;vaporisformedbyheatingliquidsinavesselandsuccessivelycondensingandcollectingliquidswithdiferentboilingpoints.
EAUDEVIE:ColorlessfruitbrandysuchasKirschwasserfromtheSchwartzwaldinGermany.
ETHANOL:Thealcoholproductoffermentationthatisusedinalcoholbeveragesandforindustrialpurposes;chemicalformulablendedwithgasolinetomakegasohol;alsoknownasethylalcoholorgrainalcohol.
ETHYLALCOHOL:Aflammableorganiccompoundformedduringsugarfermentation.Itisalsocalledethanol,grainalcohol,orsimplyalcohol.
EVAPORATION:Theconversionofaliquidtothevaporstatebytheadditionoflatentheatorvaporization.
FERMENTATION:Amicro-organicallymediatedenzymatictransformationoforganicsubstances,especiallycarbohydrates,generallyaccompaniedbytheevolutionofagas.Theprocessinwhichyeastturnsthesugarspresentinmaltedgrainsintoalcoholandcarbondioxide.
GASOHOL(GASAHOL):Registeredtradenamesforablendof90percentunleadedgasolinewith10percentfermentationethanol.
GASOLINE:Avolatile,flammableliquidobtainedfrompetroleumthathasaboilingrangeofapproximately29°to216°Candisusedforfuelforspark-ignitioninternalcombustionengines.
GIN:Whitespiritflavoredwithjuniperberryandotherbotanicals.
GRAPPA:Abrandydistilledfromgrapepomace.
HEAD:Theend(enclosure)ofacylindricalshell.Themostcommonlyusedtypesofheadsarehemispherical,ellipsoidal,flangedanddished(semispherical),conicalandflat.
HEADS:Theinitialrunofdistillateatthestartofthedistillationprocess.Headsareusuallyreturnedtothestillforredistillation.
HEATEXCHANGER:Aunitthattransfersheatfromoneliquid(orvapor)toanotherwithoutmixingthefluids.Acondenserisonetypeofheatexchanger.
HOPS:Thedriedblossomofthefemalehopplant(Cumuluslupus),whichisaclimbingherb.Agedhopsareusedbysomewhiskeydistillersinthemashingprocess.
LAUTERTUN:Thevesselusedinbrewingbetweenthemashtunandthebrewkettle.Itseparatesthebarleyhusksfromtheclearliquidwort.Thebarleyhusksthemselveshelpprovideanaturalfilterbedthroughwhichthewortisstrained.Thisfiltrationisfrequentlyskippedingraindistillation.
LAUTERING:Theprocessofstrainingwortinalautertunbeforeitiscooledinthebrewkettle.
MASH:Amixture,consistingofcrushedgrainsandwater,thatcanbefermentedtoproduceethylalcohol.
MASHING:Theprocessbywhichbarleymaltismixedwithwaterandcookedtoturnsolublestarchintofermentablesugar.Othercerealgrains,suchascornandrice,mayalsobeadded.Aftermashinginamashtun,themashisfilteredthroughalautertun,whereuponitbecomesknownaswort.
METHYLALCOHOL:Apoisonoustypeofalcohol,alsoknownaswoodalcohol.Producedasaby-productofthefermentationofstarchorcellulose.Methylalcoholisnotproducedbyfermentingsugarandonlyminimallyfromfruitwine.
MEZCAL:Distilledspiritfromthepulpoftheagaveplant,producedinMexicooutsideofthedesignatedtequilaproductionarea.SeeTequila.
MOONSHINE:OriginallyminimallyagedcornwhiskeyproducedillegallyintheAppalachianMountainregionofthesouthernUnitedStates.Modernmoonshineisusuallymadefromfermentedsugarwater.SeeCornwhiskey.
POT:Ahollowvesselmoredeepthanbroad.
PRESSUREVESSEL:Ametalcontainer,generallycylindricalorspheroid,capableofwithstandingvariousloadings.
PROHIBITION:Theprocessbywhichagovernmentprohibitsitscitizensfrombuyingorpossessingalcoholicbeverages.Specifically,Prohibitionreferstotheperiodbetweentheeffectivedateofthe18thAmendmenttotheU.S.Constitution(January16,1920)anditsrepealbythe21stAmendment.RepealtookeffectonDecember5,1933,althoughitwasratifiedbyCongressinFebruary,andthesaleofbeerwaspermittedafterApril7,1933.
PROOF:Alcoholcontaining50percentalcoholbyvolume(ABV)iscalled100U.S.proofspirit.U.S.proofistwicethepercentageofspiritbyvolume.
RECTIFICATION:Withregardtodistillation,theselectiveincreaseoftheconcentrationofthelowervolatilecomponentsinamixturebysuccessiveevaporationandcondensation.
RECTIFYINGCOLUMN:Theportionofadistillationcolumnabovethefeedtrayinwhichrisingvaporisenrichedbyinteractionwithacountercurrentfallingstreamofcondensedvapor.
RUM:Adistilledspiritmadefromfermentedmolassesorsugarcanejuice.
RYEWHISKEY:Whiskeycontainingaminimumof51percentryegrain,agedforatleast2yearsinanewcharredoakbarrel.Ryewhiskey,whichwastheoriginalwhiskeyinColonialAmerica,hasadry,hard-edgedpalate,andisnowadaysprimarilyblendedintoothertypesofwhiskeytogivethemmorecharacter.
SHELL:Structuralelementmadetoenclosesomespace.Mostshellsaregeneratedbytherevolutionofaplanecurve.
SHOWER-TYPETRAYS:Thesetraysdonothavedowncomers.Theliquidlevelresultsfromthepressuredropcausedbythecounter-flowingstreams.
LabelforBardenayRum
SIEVETRAYS:Sievetraysareusuallycross-flowtypeperforatedwithsmallholes.Sievetraysaresometimesusedforfeedsthattendtodepositsolidsorpolymerizeinthecolumn.
SIGHTGAUGE:Aclear,calibratedcylinderthroughwhichliquidlevelcanbeobservedandmeasured.
SLOBBERBOX:Pressurereliefandparticulatematterfilterchamberlocatedbetweenthestillandcondensercoilsonapotstill.
STILL:Anapparatusfordistillingliquids,particularlyalcohols;itconsistsofavesselinwhichtheliquidisvaporizedbyheat,andacoolingdeviceinwhichthevaporiscondensed.
STRIPPINGCOLUMN:Thesectionofthedistillationcolumninwhichthealcoholconcentrationinthestartingbeersolutionisdecreased.Thissectionisbelowthebeerinjectionpoint.
STRIPPINGSECTION:Thesectionofadistillationcolumnbelowthefeedinwhichthecondensateisprogressivelydecreasedinthefractionofamorevolatilecomponentbystripping.
TAILS:Thefinaldischargeofthedistillationprocess,tailscontainundesirableflavorelements(congeners)andfuseloils,andtheyareusuallydiscarded.
TANK:Avesseloflargesizetocontainliquids.
TEQUILA:Distilledspiritfromthefermentedpulpoftheagaveplant,producedbylegaldefinitiononlyincertaindesignatedareasinandaroundtheMexicanstateofJalisco.SeeMezcal.
TUNNEL-CAPTRAYS:Tunnel-captraysaresimilartobubble-captraysexceptthattheyarerectangular.
VALVETRAYS:Valvetraysarecross-flowtrayswithlargeperforationsthatarecoveredwithflatplates.Thecoverplatesarefreetomoveverticallyandthuspermitthepassageofascendingvapors.
VAPORIZATION:Theprocessofconvertingacompoundfromaliquidorsolidstatetothegaseousstate.Alcoholisvaporizedduringthedistillation.
VESSEL:Acontainerorstructuralenvelopeinwhichmaterialisprocessed,treatedorstored;forexample,pressurevessels,reactorvessels,agitatorvessels,andstoragevessels(tanks).
VODKA:InU.S.terms,colorless,odorless,tastelessneutralspirit.Foreignvodkascanretainflavorelements,particularlyifpotdistilled.
WASH:Indistilling,theliquidproducedbythefermentationprocess,whichisthendistilledtoconcentratethealcohol.SeeBeer.
WORM:Coppercondensercoilssuspendedinavesselofcontinuouslyflowingcoldwater,usedaspartofapotstill.
WORT:Anoatmeal-likesubstanceconsistingofwaterandmashbarleyinwhichsolublestarchhasbeenturnedintofermentablesugarduringthemashingprocess.Theliquidremainingfromabrewingmashpreparationfollowingthefiltrationoffermentablebeer.Ingraindistillation,thewortormashisfrequentlyfermentedandthendistilledwithoutfiltration.
YEAST:Theenzyme-producingone-celledfungiofthegenusSaccharomycesthatisaddedtowortbeforethefermentingprocessforthepurposeofturningfermentablesugarintoalcoholandcarbondioxide.
INTERNATIONALDIRECTORYOFDISTILLERIESWaytoomanytolistinprintthesedays.ForareasonablycurrentupdatepleasegototheAmericanDistillingInstitutewebsite:www.distilling.com
ABOUTTHECONTRIBUTORS
ALTHOUGHitmayseemthatAlanDiktywroteeverywordinthisbookandthatBillOwenstookeveryphotograph,thatisnotthecase.Thefollowingcollectionoftheusualsuspectshadahandinitall,forwhichweareverygrateful.
MIKEMCCAW
MikeMcCawisacofounderanddirectoroftheAmphoraSocietyandthecoauthorofTheCompleatDistiller,widelyrecognizedastheprimarytechnicalpublicationconcerningallaspectsofsmall-scaledistillation.McCawnowspendsmostofhistimeconsultingwithstart-upcraftandmicrodistillersanddesigningandbuildingequipmentfortheiroperations.Hiscurrentresearchisonfurtherincreasingtheefficiencyandloweringthecarbonandwaterfootprintsofdistillingprocesses.Abookisinpreparationdetailingsomeofthesetechniques.Heisworkingtocreateaseriesofhands-onworkshopsforaspiringdistillersandalsoonstirringupgrassrootsinterestinlegalizationofprivate,noncommercialdistillationintheUnitedStates.
MATTHEWB.ROWLEY
MatthewRowleyisanadvertisingexecutive,formermuseumcurator,andpastboardmemberoftheSouthernFoodwayAlliance.Hehastraveledextensivelyinsearchofamateurandcraftdistillerstouncoverlocalliquorand,whenpossible,promotethosewhomakeit.
Hehasspokenondistillingandcocktailcultureforuniversities,radio,television,andtheannualTalesofCocktailinNewOrleans.HisessaysandrecipeshavebeenpublishedbytheUniversityofNorthCarolinaPress,theUniversityofGeorgiaPress,Simon&Schuster,theTauntonPress,LarkBooks,andothers.Hehasconsultedondistilling-relatedbroadcastsfortheFoxnetworkandtheNationalGeographicChannelintheUnitedStatesandRTEinIreland.
RowleylivesinSanDiego,California,wherehemaintainsa2000-volumeculinarylibraryopentochefs,bartenders,distillers,historians,journalists,andstudents.HeistheauthorofMoonshine!(2007),asmallbatchdistillinghistory/practicumfornovicesandpublishesRowley’sWhiskeyForge(www.whiskeyforge.com),ablogdevotedtothehistoryandpracticeofdistilling,mixology,andgoodeats.
IANSMILEY
IanSmiley,BSc,isaresearchdistillerandtheauthorofMakingPureCornWhiskey,anAmphoraSocietypublication,andtheownerofSmiley’sHomeDistillingatwww.home-distilling.com,awebstorededicatedtohomeandlaboratorydistillers.Hehasbeenexploringsmall-scalebeverage-alcoholdistillationallhisadultlife,andheisacard-carryingmemberoftheAmericanDistillingInstitute(ADI).He’swrittenarticlesfortheirmagazine,TheAmericanDistiller,andwasamajorcontributortotherecentlypublishedADIbook,CraftWhiskeyDistilling.HeisnowpartownerofawhiskeydistilleryinChina,L.S.Moonshine,whichiscurrentlyproducingacornwhiskeywhitedogtosatisfytheChinesepeople’scuriosityfortraditionalAmericanmoonshine.L.S.MoonshinehasotherspiritsplannedfortheChinesemarket.Inthefuture,Smileyplanstowritebooksonmakingschnapps,brandy,andrum,andtocontinuehisactivitiesincommercialartisandistilling.HelivesinNepean,Ontario,Canada.
MAXWAXMAN
MaxWaxmanistheauthorofChasingtheWhiteDog:AnAmateurOutlaw’sAdventuresintheMoonshineTrade,whichwillbepublishedbySimonandSchusterinearly2010.HisbookRaceDay:ASpotontheRailwithMaxWatman(IvanR.Dee)wascalled“agreattributetoAmericanthoroughbredracing”andwasanEditors’ChoiceinTheNewYorkTimesBookReview.
HewasthehorseracingcorrespondentfortheNewYorkSun,andwrotefrequentlyonbooks,music,food,anddrinkfortheirArts&Letterspages.HehaswrittenfortheNewYorkTimes,TheNewYorkTimesBookReview,ForbesFYI,TheWallStreetJournal,FortuneSmallBusiness,Gourmet,andParnassus.
HewasraisedinthemountainsofVirginia,andhasworkedasacook,afarmer,asilversmith,atutor,agreenskeeper,andawarehouseman.Forashorttime,hetaughtgoatmilking.HewaseducatedatmanyschoolsandmanagedtograduatefromVirginiaCommonwealthUniversityandColumbiaUniversity.
In2008,WaxmanwasawardedaNationalEndowmentfortheArtsliteraryfellowship.
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
EARLIERVERSIONSofsomeofthetextinthisbookpreviouslyappearedinvariouspublicationsoftheBeverageTestingInstitute,anditisusedherewiththepermissionofBTIdirectorJeraldO’Kennardandourgratefulthanks.
BillOwenscannotdrawworthadamn,sowehadCatherineRyanredohisprimitivesketchesinamuchmorepolishedmanner.Theylookgreat.
AmberHasselbringservesasBill’sassistantandcaregiver.Whateverheispayingher,itisnotenough.Thewomanisasaint.
Mixingaproperdrinkistrulyanart,andMarkGruberofSouthernWine&Spirits,Illinois,confirmedhisartistictalentbyreviewingandcorrectingourmixeddrinkrecipes,asneeded.Themanevenwritestasty.
ABOUTTHEAUTHORS
ALANS.DIKTY
AlanistheauthorofTheBuyingGuidetoSpiritsandnumerousarticlesondistillingandbrewing.Inhissparetime,hemanagesAlliedBeverageTanks,Inc.,acompanythatbuildscraftbreweriesanddistilleries.HiscurrentchoiceforadesertislanddramiseitherMacallan18-Year-OldScotchWhiskyorRittenhouse23-Year-OldRyeWhiskey,butheisopentoalternatives.
ANDREWFAULKNER
FaulknergrewupinCarmel,California,readingthedaybooksofEdwardWeston,keepingjournals,visitingAnselAdams,andstudyingotherblack-and-whitemasterphotographers.Hisphotocareerdivertedintojournalism,gettingaBAfromCaliforniaStateUniversity,Northridge,in1993andworkingforadozenyearsinnewspapersandmagazines.Faulknerthoughthehadcomefullcirclein2005whenhestartedworkingforBillOwens,oneofthephotographerswhosearthefollowedasateenager.HisresponsibilitiesattheAmericanDistillingInstitutegrewashebecamethemanagingeditorofDistillermagazinein2013andpublisherin2018.Hehascomefullcircleintojournalism.WhenFaulknerisnotconcernedwithdeadlines,punctuation,andcorrectspellingofnames,helikestoplaychesswithhisson,dancewithhisdaughter,ridebikeswithhiswife,andmakeprettypictures.
BILLOWENS
Whenhewasnotbusybeinganaward-winningphotographerorthefounderofthebrewpubindustryintheUnitedStates,hesomehowalsofoundthetimetobetheauthorofanassortmentofbooksandpamphletsonbreweryanddistilleryoperations,publishedbyADI.Inhissparetime,hetrieshisbesttoavoidpersonalresponsibilities.www.distilling.com
INDEXAbleforth’sBathtubGin,95AbsentMinded,144Absinthe,144AbsintheVerte,144Acetaldehyde,42ActofUnion(1707),68Agavespirits,132Agavetequila,137Agedatedblendedrums,124Agitator,38Aguardiente,138Air-conditioning,rumand,122AlambicArmagnacais,108,109,114Alambiccharentaisstill,36,106Alberta,Canada,58,62AlcoholandTobaccoTaxandTradeBureau(TTB),16Aldehydes,42Alembicstills,30,36,37,91.SeealsoAlambiccharentaisstillAmari,146AmericanCaskStrengthSingle-MaltWhiskey,57AmericanDistillingInstitute(ADI)foundingof,10JudgingofCraftSpirits,52,87,92,96,99,101,105,107,109,114,119,122,123,125,142,143
Amodeo,Francesco,146,147AnchorBrewing,15AndalusiaWhiskeyCo.,62Añejo/Agedtequila,71,138Anise-flavoredspirits,144Antigua,130Anti-SaloonLeague,50Applebrandy,71,105,113,117,118,119Applejack,119Aristotle,13
ArmagancCastaredeReservedelaFamille,108Armenia,115Arrack,91TheArtofDistillation(French),13Asia,87,91,131.SeealsospecificcountrynamesAspiringandaccomplishedartisans,23AtelierVie,145Australia,14,15,73,74,75,76,77,87,131Austria,78,130Azeotrope,29,33
Babylon,12
Backins,46Baijiuvodka,89BalconesDistilling,57Balkans,117Barbados,128,130Barley-basedwhiskey,70,74Barrelaged/aging,67,99,127,136BarreledGrapeImmatureBrandy,110Batch-stillprocess,35,42Bathtubgin,95Bayrum,129BeaverPondDistillery,118Becherovka,146Beer,18,19,49Beerstripper,44Beer-strippingrun,44Begin-cut,46Belarus,86Belgium,94,96,100BelleRoseDoubleBarrelRum,123BelmontFarmDistillery,19,20Bignell,Peter,77Bitters,140,146BlackberryLiqueur,143BlackNoteAmaro,144BlackWalnutLiqueur,143Blancotequila,138Blanton’sDistillingCompany,50BlendedAmericanwhiskey,56,60,65Blendedrums,124BlendedScotchwhiskey,68,70,73Blends,liqueursas,141BloodyButcherredcorn,52BloodyMary,88Blueagavetequila,137Boilingpoints,27,29,42Bondedwhiskey,66BonnyDoonVineyards,114BottledinCanadawhiskies,61“BottleinBond,”66Bouilleursdecru,107Bouilleursdecru(travelingstills),14Bourboncraftdistilleries,52,62Bourbondistilleries,55,64,119BourbonRubenesque,53Bourbonwhiskey,34,49,50,51,54,60,66,71
Bourbonwoodenbarrels,75,138Boyd&BlairPotatoVodka,85Brandy,104cocktails,119contemporarybrandies,114fruitbrandies,105,117grapebrandies,105,113,114groupingsof,105origins,104pomacebrandies,105,116regions,106typesof,105
BrandyAlexander,119BrandydeJerez,111Brandydistillation,33,36,44,71Bridges,Jeff,17Britishsettlers,30,58BroVoSpirits,146Bubble-captrays,31,34,38,39,41BuffaloTraceDistillery,50,51BulkCanadianwhiskies,61BulleitRye,51Butts,111
CajunSpiritsDistillery,131CaledoniaSpiritsBarrHillVodka,87,96Californiabrandies,114,117Calvados,117Campbeltdown,Scotland,78Canada,15,16,62,87,116,130.SeealsoNorthAmericaCanadianwhiskey,58,61,71CaneLandDistilling,122CannonBeachDistillery,139CantonCooperage,59CarcdeGewurztraminer,116Caribbeanmolasses,50,58Caribbean,the,87,121,122,128,129CaskStrengthBloodyRedCornBourbon,52Catalyzer,38,41CentralAmerica,129CentralStandardCraftDistillery,55CentralStandardSpiritsWisconsinRyeVodka,87CharboneauDistillery,131Charboneau,Doug,131Charboneau,JeanLuc,130ChardonnayBarrelReserveGin,98ChateaudeManiban,107
ChateaudeTriacSingleVineyardFiinsBois,107Chemicalflavorcompounds.SeeCongenersCherrybrandies,117China,13,89ChivasBrothersLtd.,68CincodeNoviembreMEzcal,137CitadelleReserveGin,99CivilWar,14ClassicMargarita,139ClassicMartini,103ClassificationsNorthAmericanwhiskey,60tequila,138vodka,84
ClearCreekDistillery,15,116,119,143Cocktails,79,88,94,103,119,125,139CodeofFederalRegulations(CFR),60Cognac,36,106,107,109,111ColkeganSingleMaltWhiskey,57ColoradoPureDistilling,84Columbus,Christopher,121Columnstillsbourbonand,50brandyproducedin,106,114,115continuous-runcolumnstill,34ginproducedin,97,102Irishwhiskey,76Japanesewhiskey,76rumproducedin,128Scotchwhiskey,68vodkaand,83,84
Commercialdistillation,14,49,82.SeealsoCraftdistilleriesCondenser,14,25,28,31,32,33,34,36,37Condensorcoil(moonshinestill),31Congeners,42,44Contemporarybrandies,114Continuous-runcolumnstill,24,34Continuous-rundistillationprocess,42,47CooleyDistillery,70CopperFoxDistillery,62,63,64Copper,stillsmadeof,41Cordials,141CoreVodka,87“Cornlikker”moonshine,16Cornwhiskey,49,56,57,61,71CorsairArtisan,96CorsairDistillery,54
Cotton&Reed,129Craftbrewers,19Craftdistilleries,15agavespirits,138bourbon,52,62brandy,114cornwhiskey,57gin,99,102grappa,116legalmoonshineand,21inNewZealandandAustralia,74rum,129whiskey,54,62,64,65,69
Craftpomacebrandies,116Crèmes,141Croatia,96CubaLibre(RumandCoke),125Cuba,rumproductionin,128CzechRepublic,146
Daiquiri,125DampfwerkDistilleryCo.,110,142DarkNorthernReserveStraightWhiskey,55Darkrums,124Dasylirion,138Degens,Sebastian,117Demerararums,128Dephlegmator,28,40DepthCharge,79DestillerieWeidenauer,78Diablo’sShadowBourbonWhiskey,53Diablo’sShadowNavyStrengthRum,124Distillation/distillingbasicstepsinprocessof,42batch-stillprocess,42chemistryof,29continuous-runprocessof,47definition,26distillingtimeline,71earliestwrittenrecordof,12earlyhistoryof,12evolvingtechnologyof,13ofgin,97governmentregulation,14asahobby,15,19process,27
ofrum,127single-rundistillation,45taxationon,14tequila,136two-rundistillation,44ofvodka,84
DistilledSpiritsPlant(DSP),87Distilleries/distillers.SeealsoCraftdistilleriesbourbon,55,65,119networkingamong,20primaryjobof,26Scottishwhiskey,68whiskey,51,52,64,78
Distiller’sGin#6,102DocHerson’sNaturalSpirits,144DomaineCharbay,116DominicanRepublic,121,128DonCiccio&Figli,146,147Dornkaat,100DoubleBarreledBourbon,51DoubleGoldMedal,87Drouin,Christian,107Drygin,71,94,98,100,102DrySpicedRum,129Dunedin,NewZealand,74
EasternEurope,81,83,86,117,145Eaudevie,25,105,117Eauxdevie,117,146Economicdistillers,23ElKeynoteAgaveSpirit,139ElkRiderBourbonWhiskey,53ElkRiderCrispGin,101End-cut,45,46England,13,14,15,68,69,94,96,98,99EpicofGilgamesh,12Esters,42Estonia,86Ethanol,29,42,44Ethylcarbamate(urethane),41EtterDistillerie,78Europe,15,100,130.SeealsoindividualcountrynamesEuropeanUnion,75,78ExciseActof1823,68
FarallonGinWorksGinFarallon,92Farber,Daniel,114
FarmaceuticadiSantaMariaNovella,146Fasano,Jonathan,147Feints,44Fermentation,18,34,42,43,66,91,136FernetBranca,146FernetMichaud,146Fiji,131Finland,86FlagHillWineryandDistillery,146Flavors/flavoringbathtubgin,95fruitbrandy,105gins/genever,94,96,97,99,100,102liqueurs,141tequila,136vodkas,88
Forsythswhiskeystill,33France,13,14,50,86,105,106,117,130,144FremontMischiefDistillery,55FrenchCharentaisalembicstill,30,36French,Jonathan,13FrozenFruitMargarita,139Fruitbrandies,105,117Fruitbricks,18Fruitmashes,38
Gabriel,Alexendre,107Gaelicculture,67Genericliqueurs,143Genever-styledgins,71,94,96,97,98GeorgeDickelRye,51Georgia(country),115Georgia(state),50Germain-Robin(craftdistillery),15,105,114Germain-Robin,Hubert,115Germanimmigrants,49,55Germany,13,78,86,100,112,117,119,143Gerrymandering,15Gin,92barrel-aged,99basisof,94,96bathtubgin,95cocktails,103distillationof,97distillingtimeline,71historyof,93
regions,100styles,98
GinandTonic,103GinCraze,14GinLane(Hogarth),93Glenora,NovaScotia,62Goldenrums,124,130,131Goldtequila,138Gooseneckstill,32,46Grainmashes,38,91Grainwhiskey,69,73,75,76GrandMarnier,143Grapebrandy,104,105,113,114Grapepomace,37,114Grappa,37,71,116“GreatBallsofFire”(Wolfe),17GreatBritain,14,122.SeealsoEngland;ScotlandGreatLakesDistillery,102GreatSouthernDistillingCompany,74Greece,115,144Greece,ancient,13GreenBrierTennesseeWhiteWhiskey,54GreenFairy,144GreenHatGin,93Guyana,123,128
Haik,Ed,131Haiti,121,128HarvestSpiritsCoreVodka,87Heads,27,28,34,35,42,44,45,47Hearts,34,35,42,44,45,46,47HelgolanderGermanstyleHerbalLiqueur,142Helmet,36,38,39HeritageDistillingCo.,53,85,101Heron,Joe,114Heron,Lesley,117Herson,Kevin,145HeubleinCompany,83HighCouncilBrandy,113HIghlandmaltwhiskeys,78Historyofdistilling,12bourbonwhiskey,49brandy,104craftdistilleries,15earliestknownuseofdistillation,12gin,93Irishwhiskey,70
Japanesewhiskey,72moonshine,16NewZealandandAustralianwhiskies,74NorthAmericanwhiskey,59regulationofdistilling,14rum,121Scotchwhiskey,67spreadofknowledgeandtechnologyon,13vodka,81,90,91whiskey,67
Hobbyistdistillers,15,19.SeealsoHomedistillingHogarth,William,93Hokkaido,Japan,77Holland,86,91,92,94,96,100Homebrewers,19Homedistilling,14,16,20,21,23,31,82Honshu,Japan,77Hopibluecorn,52,57Howell,Gillian,70HudsonBayBourbon,50Hungary,146Hybridpotstill,30,38,45,85,102
ImmigrantsinNorthAmerica,49,55India,15,75,91Indiana,50,52,55,62,65India,whiskeyin,75,76Indonesia,91Infusedspirits,140Inlanderrum,130Internalsteamcoil,25InternationalJudgingofCraftSpirits,87Ireland,13,15,49,70,104.SeealsoIrishwhiskeysIrishDistillersCompany(IDC),70Irishimmigrants,49,55Irishmaltwhiskey,73Irishpotstillwhisky,73Irishwhiskeys,32,70,73,75,76,77IslandOrchardEaudeVieAppleBrandy,105,118Islaywhiskeys,77Israel,115Italy,13,86,96,111,116,144,146
JackDaniel’sDistillery,54JacksonHoleStillWorksHighwaterVodka,87Jägermeister,146Jamaica,128Japan,13,48,72,73,75,76,77,87,91
Japanesemaltwhiskey,73JaxonKeysWinery,114Jenever,94JepsonOldStockBrandy,114JepsonVineyards,15,114JohnnyZieglerBlackForestStyleAppleAuxPommelSchnappsEaudeVie,143Johnson,RobertGlenJr.(JuniorJohnson),17Jos.A.Magnus&Co.Distillery,56Juniper-flavoredgin,92,93,94,96,97
Kahlúa,143KaruizawaNumberOneSingleCaskWhisky,72Kentucky,49,50,51,52,55,62Kettle,32,33,36,37,38KillDevil,121KimoSabeMezcal,137KittlingRidge,Ontario,62Kiwihomedistillers,20Kneiper,Rich,118Korbel,114Korea,sojuin,91Korn,Germany,78Kubanskaya,88KweichowMoutai,89KymarFarmWineryandDistillery,118
Labrot&GrahamDistillery,50Laird&Co.,113Laird’sDistillery,119Lampglass,28LancutDistillery,143Laokhao,91LatinAmerica,15,115Latvia,86Lawrenceburg,Indiana,51Legislation,20,93.SeealsoRegulationLeopoldBros.,115,144,147LeopoldBrothersDistillery,146Leopold,Todd,147Libya,ancient,13LimeburnersSingleMaltWhisky,74Limonnaya,88Liqueurs,140,141LiquidRiot,146Lithuania,86LondonDryGin,98,102LouisianaSpirits,130
Lowe,Michael,93Lowlandmaltwhiskeys,77“Lowwine”spirits,42,43,44,45Lynearm,25,28,32
MacallanDistillery,68Madagascar,131MadRiverDistillers,119Maggie’sFarmRumDistillery,130MaisonFerrand,107MakersMarkBourbon,49MalahatSpiritsCabernetBarrelRum,122MalahatSpiritstastingroom,130Maltedbarley,18,68,74,75Malting,91Maltwhiskey,68,69,72,73,74,75,76,77,78MalvadosAppleBrandy,119Manhattan,79Manitoba,Canada,62ManueleDistillersKoHanaKohoHawaiianAgricoleRum,122Maotaivodka,89MapleLiqueur,142Margarita,139Martini,103Martinique,123,127,128Maryland,49,55Mashbills,52,58,59Mashing,91Mash/mashing,18,33,34,37,38,42,43,50,66,81Mashtun,43Mauritius,131Maysville,Kentucky,51Maytag,Fritz,15McCool,Clark,115McMenaminsCorneliusPssRoadhouse(CPR)Distillery,104McMenaminsCPRDistillery,113,115Melazas,121Methanol,42Mexico,115,133,134,136,138Mezcals,133,134,136,137,139MGPofIndiana,51MiddleWestSpirits,53Miller,Chuck,20Missouri,50Mixtos,136,138Modern“moonshiners,”Mixtos,19
Moersch,Rick,113Molasses,50,58,81,121,122,127MontanyaDistillers,130Moonshine,16,61cornwhiskey,57defined,21distillingtimeline,71JuniorJohnsonand,17making,18modernproductionof,16,19,23NewZealand,74duringProhibition,16,18,52still,31
Moor’scap,40Morris,Chris,52MosbyVineyards,116MoscowMule,83MountGayDistillery,128Moylan,Brendan,137Moylan’sBrewingCo.,57Mrs.Beeton’sBookofHouseholdManagement,94MurrayHillClubSpecialReleaseBlendedBourbon,56
NASCARracing,17Nelson’sGreenBrierDistillery,54Neutralgrainspirit(NGS),83,84NewColumbiaDistillers,93NewDealDistillery,105NewJersey,113,119NewZealand,15,20,75,76,78NewZealandblendedwhiskey,73NewZealandSinglemaltwhiskey,73NikkaWhiskeyDistillery,72NorthAmerica,15,87,102,122,129.SeealsoCanada;UnitedStatesNorthAmericanwhiskeyblendedAmericanwhiskey,56bourbon,49Canadianwhiskey,58,62classificationsof,60cornwhiskey,57craftdistilleries,65overview,48,59regions,62Ryewhiskey,55Tennesseewhiskey,54
NorthCarolina,17,50NorthShoreDistillery,102
NotchNantucketIslandSingleMaltWhiskey,57NovaScotia,Canada,62
Oceanarum,131Ogden’sOwn,146Ogee,28Ohio,50Okhotnichya,88Olathecorn,52Olbracht,KingJan,82OldGristmillAuthenticAmericanCornWhiskey,78OldPogueDistillery,51OldTomGin,98,99OldTomstyleofgin,94Onlineforums,20Ontario,Canada,58,62OrcasIslandDistillery,105,118Oregon,99,117,138OregonSpiritDistillers,144Orr,Prentis,85OsocalisDistillery,114Ouzo,144OYOSherry-FinishedBourbonWhiskey,53
Pakistan,13,75,76PappyVanWinkle’sbourbon,50,51ParkCognac,107Pastis,144,145Pearbrandies,117PearBrandy,105Peatedbarleymalt,75Peatfires,68Peat-smokedcharacter,72,73,74,75PenderynWhiskyDistillery,70Penedèsbrandy,111Pennsylvania,49,50,55PennsylvaniaPureDistillery,85Pernod,144Pertsovka,88Philippines,the,131Phylloxerainfestation,69,113PiedmontDistillers,17Pilgrims,50PiscoPunch,115PiscoStyleBrandy,115Planter’sPunch,125
Plumbrandy,117PlymouthGin,98PogueDistillery,51Pogue,John,51Poland,13,82,84,86Pomacebrandies,105,116Poteen,70Potstills,20anatomyof,24bourbonand,50brandyproducedin,114,115ginproducedin,102Irishwhiskey,76Japanesewhiskey,76NewZelandandAustraliawhiskey,76rumproductionin,128Scotchwhiskey,76usedbyartisans,23vodkaand,83,84
Preheater,36PrezydentVodka,82Prichard’sDistillery,51,130Privatedistillation,14.SeealsoHomedistillingProhibition,15bourbonindustryand,50,52fruitbricksand,18ginand,95grapebrandyand,113Irishwhiskeyand,70moonshineand,16rumand,122ryewhiskeyand,55vodkaand,83
Proprietaries(liqueurs),143PuertoRico,128Purifier(dephlegmator),28
Qu,91Quakers,94Quebec,Canada,62
RansomOldTomGin,99Raspberrybrandies,117RaspberryLiqueur,142Recipes.SeeCocktailsReflux(condensation),31,32,33,40Regions
brandy,106gin,100rum,128vodka,86whiskey,77
Regulation,14,59,99,141RehorstPremiumMilwaukeeGin,102Reposado/Restedtequila,138Revere,Paul,94Reynolds,Burt,17RhumAgricoleLARum,122Richards,Andrew,118RichlandDistillingCo.,126RMS,114RockyMountainPeachFlavoredWhiskey,147RosolisZiolowyGorzki,143Rum,120basisof,120,127cocktails,125distillationof,33,127distillingtimeline,71historyof,121regions,128stylesof,124
RumandCoke,125Rummanger,33Rumverschnitt,130Ruqude,91Russel,Jimmy,52Russia,13,81,84,86,88RustyNail,79Ryan,Bob,124Ryan&WoodDistillers,124Ryewhiskey,48,49,55,60,71
SagaponackFarm,87SalishSeaOrganicLiqueurs,142SanteFeSpirits,57Sazerac,79Schnapps,33,38,55,143Scotchgrainwhiskey,73,76Scotchmaltwhiskey,69,76Scotchwhiskey,67,71Scotland,13,15,48,49,69,77Scottishimmigrants,49,55Scottishmaltwhisky,gooseneckstillfor,32,33
Scottishwhiskey,75,76Screech,130Screwdriver,88Seagram’sExtraDrygin,102Seagram’splant,51SexOnTheBeach,88ShadyKnollOrchardsandDistilling,118Sidecar,119SidetrackDistillery,146SidetrackDistilleryRaspberryBrandy,117,141SiegriedHerzogDestillate,112Silvertequila,138Sinedrius,13Singlebarrelbourbon,60SingleBarrelTennesseeSingleMaltWhiskey,54SingleMaltScotchWhisky,69,73SkipRockDistillers,123,142SlivovitzPlumBrandy,118SloeGin,95SLYRSdistillery,112Smallbatchbourbon,60,123Smirnoffbrand,83Solerasystem,111,114,115Sotol,138Sourmash,50,66SouthAfrica,15,115SouthAmerica,115,122,129SouthernComfort,143SouthHollowSpirits,125Spain,13,88,96,100,111Spentwash,29Spicedrums,124Spigot,14Spiritrun,44,46Spiritstill,44StarkSpirits,118,123State38Distilling,139Steamjacket,14,33,38St.GeorgeSpirits,15,116,144Still(s)anatomyofacraftwhiskey,33blueprintof,14,28continuous-runcolumn,34designofwhiskey,30dimensionsofatypical,24FrenchCharentaisalambic,36
gooseneck,32moonshine,31partsofawhiskey,28forproducingCognac,106
Stinger,119StoneBarnBrandyworks,117StraightBourbonWhiskey,53Straightwhiskey,66StrykerSmokedSingleMaltWhiskey,62Sugarcane,75,120,121,122,127,131Sugarcanejuice,127,128,131SugarHouseDistillery,53Sugar-maplecharcoal,54SunshineOrangeBrandy,118SuntoryCompany,72SutherlandDistillingCo.,53,124Swanneck,onpotstill,25,28Sweden,13,76,82,86
Tahiti,131Tails,28,34,35,42,44,45,46,47Taiwanwhiskeys,75,76Taketsura,Masataka,72Taliskerwhiskey,69Taxation,14,49,57,66,70,74Taxila,13Technicaldistillers,23Temperancemovement,50Temperature,boilingpoint,27,29,42TempletonRye,51Tench,Keith,70Tennessee,49,50,52,62Tennesseewhiskey,53,54,60,71Tequila,132basisof,134cocktails,139distillationandagingof,136distillingtimeline,71evolutionof,133fermentationstage,136upgradingandupscalingof,139
TequilaSunrise,139Terra-cottadistillationsystem,13Thailand,91,131Thujone,145Tito’sHandmadeVodka,84
TomCollins,103Tom’sFooleryRyeWhiskey,55TormoreDistillery,68Townshend’sDistillery,141Travelingstills,14Trinidad,128TripleEightDistillery,57TrueBlueCornWhiskey,57TullamoreDrew,70TurinVermouth,144TuthilltownSpirits,50TwentyBoatAmberRum,125TwoJamesDistilleryBarrelReserveOldCockneyGin,98Two-rundistillation,44
Ukraine,86UndergroundHerbalSpirit,146Unicum,146UnitedKingdom,15,86,100,130.SeealsoEngland;GreatBritain;Ireland;ScotlandUnitedStates.See
alsoNorthAmerica;NorthAmericanwhiskeyapplebrandyin,119brandyproducedin,113craftdistilleries,15ginproductionin,95moonshineproduction,16pomacebrandies,116rumproductionin,122,129vodkain,83,87
Uralt,112Urethane,41
VanWinkleIII,Julian,51VattedMaltScotchWhiskey,73Vietnam,90,91VINNBaiju,90VINNDistillery,90,91Virginia,49,50,52,58,62,64,113,119VirginiaLightningCornWhiskey,19VirginiaSweetwaterMoonshine,21VirginIslands,129VirginiaLightningMoonshine,19VirginiaSweetwaterDistillery,21Vodka,80baijiu,89basisof,81classificationsof,84
cocktails,88distillationof,84distillingtimeline,71flavored,88flavors,88history,81producedinAsia,89regions,86technicaldistillersand,23
Vonk,ErikandKarin,126VS(verysuperior)industrystandard,107VSOP(verysuperioroldpale)industrystandard,107VSP(verysuperiorpale)industrystandard,107
Warof1812,14Wash,25,28,31,33,38,43,47Washington,George,14,15,49,94WashingtonRye,55Wasmund,Rick,64Wasmund’sSingleMaltWhiskey,65Weidenauer,Oswald“Ossie,”78Weinbrand,112Whiskey,48.SeealsoMoonshineAustralian,74basisof,75blendedAmericanwhiskey,56,60bonded,66bourbon,49,60Canadianwhiskey,58,61cocktails,79cornwhiskey,57,61craftdistilleries,54,62,64,65,69definition,67historyofNorthAmerican,59Irish,32,70,73,75,76,77Japanese,72,75labeling/labels,50,51mash,66NewZealand,74NorthAmericanregions,62overview,48PappyVanWinkle,51regionalflavors,65regions,77ryewhiskey,48,49,55,60,71Scotchwhisky,67,71,73,76
spelling,49straightwhiskey,66Tennesseewhiskey,54
Whiskeydistillationbatch-stillprocess,44distilleries,51,52,64byregion,76Tennesseewhiskey,54timeline,71
WhiskeyRebellionof1791,14WhiskeySour,79Whiskeystill,25,28,30,32,33“Whitedog,”21WhiteLightning(film),17Whiterums,122,124“Whitewhiskey,”21WigleWhiskey,144WildcardAbsinthe,144WillettDistillery,62WinegardenEstate,143Winters,Lance,71WiseKingAnejoAgaveSpirit,139Witblits,115Wodo,Dave,124Wolfe,Tom,17Women’sChristianTemperanceUnion,50WoodfordReserveDistillery,9,32,50,52,63WoodHatSpirits,52,53,143WoodinvilleWhiskeyCo.,53Worm(condenser),13,25,28Worm(mezcal),136Wormwood,145
XO(extraold)industrystandard,107
Young,Barry,85
Zubrowka,88
DEDICATIONInfondmemoryofourfriendMichaelJackson,whois,wehavenodoubt,nowenjoyinghis
well-deservedangel’sshareoftheworld’sbarrelsofmaturingwhiskey.