The Art of Creating Enamel Jewelry
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The Art of Creating Enamel Jewelry
In the tradition of Lalique, Fabergé and Louis Tiffany,the Nicole Barr Collection continues the art of fineenameling into the 21st century. With a history datingback at least 3,000 years, enameling is still valued today forthe color and life that is brought to every hand-enameledpiece of jewelry.
Nicole Barr designs showcase the art of enameling on18 K gold and sterling silver – complemented by diamonds,gemstones and pearls.
What is “Hard-Fired Enameling?”Enameling is the art of fusing powdered glass to metals suchas gold or silver. The enamel color comes from specificblends of rare metals like gold, cobalt and manganese.
The fusion between enamel and metal takes place in a kilnwith temperatures up to 850° C – with different colorsrequiring different temperatures – and therefore oftenmultiple firings for the same piece. This is what is meant by“hard-fired enamel”- also called vitreous enamel. For yourcustomer, it means owning a piece of jewelry with a lustrouscolor that will never change.
The Metals and Glass Used inEnamelingThe most popular metals used in enameling are sterlingsilver and high-karat gold such as 18 K. A high-caratmetal is required because vitreous enamel will react to thehigher amount of alloys in lower quality metals andtherefore will not fire properly.
The artist can choose from opaque or transparent enamelcolors.
Opaque - After firing, the enamel is dense and does notpermit the metal to be reflected. Opaque enamels areexcellent for creating contrast and when used withtransparent enamels add depth and dimension to a piece.
Transparent enamels allow the metal to be reflectedthrough the hard-fired glass. The combination of thetransparency and the metallic surface highlights therichness of the color. Transparent enamels also allow theartist to feather several colors into each other for thedelicate details in a flower petal or a dragonfly wing.
The Techniques of Enameling
The Nicole Barr Collection uses manycomplex enameling techniques. Here are just afew:
Plique-à-JourPlique-à-jour is a technique used by the Frenchenamelists Lalique and Feuillâtre in the 1900’s.The French term means “glimpse of day”.
In the Nicole Barr Collection this difficulttechnique has been revived and made availableonce again. The enamel is suspended betweengold or silver wires and is fired without anybacking so that the light can shine through,creating a shimmering, translucent effect.
A plique-à-jour enamel piece requires manypainstaking hours to complete. Patience andhumility are the most important tools for thistechnique! It’s a work of art that needs to betreated with care like a fine glass sculpture.
Basse TailleA French word meaning “low cut”, it describes atechnique where the silver surface is engraved so that themetal has a pattern etched into it. The design is thencovered with translucent enamel, creating texture anddimension in the piece. These layered cuts give theenamel different shades or tones of the same hue once itis fired. The metal base in silver or gold gives addedbrilliance to the applied enamel colors.
ChamplevéA French word for “raised field”, in champleve theartist carves the metal to create cells for separate enamelcolors. This is especially effective for beautiful mosaics.
GuillocheOften referred to as “Engine Turned”, in guilloche theengraved pattern is a more complex, precision engravingsuch as seen in vintage Fabergé and Cartier pieces. LikeBasse Taille, you’re looking through the fired translucentenamel into an intricate pattern with an almostshimmering effect.
Other Features ofNicole Barr Jewelry
To prevent tarnishing, the sterlingsilver (including the chain) hasbeen finished with a durable layerof rhodium plating.
Most of our brooches arebrooch-pendants –and come with a loopbeneath the brooch pin, tobe worn as a pendant ifdesired.
All of our ringsare by-pass style(adjustable from5.5 to 7) and canbe easily sized on amandrel.
Most of our 18 inchchains are adjustable– perfect for differentnecklines. Extra-longchains can be specialordered.
As jewelers, youhave a story to
tell. Yourcustomers are
not just buying abeautiful piece
of jewelry. Theyare buying awork of art!
A Story to Tell
nicolebarr.comWorkmaster Appointed by TATIANA FABERGÉ sa
Click here for more enamelinginformation and videos to help
you tell your story.
Nicole Barr-USA: 6512 Six Forks Road, Suite 303, Raleigh, NC 27615T: 844-810-7312 E: [email protected]
UK: Unit 4, Martinfield Business Centre, Welwyn Garden City, Hertfordshire AL7 1HGT: 01707 371203 E: [email protected]
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