The aims of this session are - exceed.myblog.arts.ac.ukexceed.myblog.arts.ac.uk/files/2012/10/Perfumery-Presentation-23...• Herbal note • Part of the ... incense trade route ...

The aims of this session are:• To inspire you to enjoy your sense of smell

• To give you a taste or sniff of what the students study in the perfumery unit

By the end of the session you will be able to:• List at least 6 odour and fragrance families

• Give 2 reasons why individuals perceive odours differently

• Create an harmonious perfume

Introduction to the World of Perfumeat the London College of Fashion

• Do you feel odour perception is connected more to the thinking logical brain or to the emotional feeling brain?

• Is odour connected to choosing a mate in any way?

• Is odour evocative of past experience?

• Do new born babies recognise their mothers by sight or smell?

• Are mothers able to recognise their babies by smell as well as sight?

• How old is the perfume industry?

• What are the roots of the word perfume

• How many kilos of rose petals does it take to make 1Kg of rose absolute?

Perfume in Literature

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• The 1st year under graduates on the MSc in Cosmetic Science take perfumery as part of a unit with marketing

• 2nd year students create a shampoo fragrance to use in their hair care project

What are these botanicals?

LemonCitrus Medica Limonum

• Citrus fruit

• Grown in Sicily

• Cold extraction techniques

• The odour of the freshessential oil is mouth wateringly close to the original

Cold extraction of citrus oils

RosemaryRosmarinus Officinalis

• Herb

• Reputed to aid memory

• In ancient Greece students would rub rosemary on their foreheads before exams to help them remember

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RosemaryRosmarinus Officinalis

• Love charm

• In the Greek orthodox tradition rosemary is said to help couples remember their wedding vows

• Rosemary wreaths are worn by bride and groom in the wedding ceremony

• Alpha and beta wave patterns in the brain are affected by rosemary

• Most people feel more alert but calm at the same time

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A study involving 40 participants looked at the EEG activity, alertness and mood after an aromatherapy session using lavender oil on one group and rosemary oil on another. The rosemary group had reduced frontal alpha and beta power suggesting increased alertness, they reported feeling more alert and more relaxed. When completing mathematical computations the rosemary group were faster but not more accurate. (Diego et al, 1998)

A study with 140 participants looked at the effects on memory of lavender oil, rosemary oil and no odour (the control group). The rosemary group showed overall improved quality of memory but with an impairment of speed compared to the control. (Moss et al, 2003)

Rosemary oil said to have a positive effect on mood, concentration and memory for 10 subjects. (Svoboda et al, 2002)

Some academic studies confirming the effects of rosemary oil

Rosemary in perfumeryRosmarinus Officinalis

• Herbal note

• Part of the classic eau de cologne

• Used frequently in fragrances for men

4711, by Muelhens, launched in 1792

Eau Dynamisante, by Clarins, launched in 1987

Photographs by Tony Burfield taken 21st century in Zanzibar

Clove budsEugenia Caryophyllus

• Spice

• Essential oil is made by water distillation

Photographs by Tony Burfield

Clove budsEugenia Caryophyllus

• Spice

• Essential oil is made by water distillation

• Contains 75-80% eugenol

• Eugenol is one of the commonly reported EU allergens

eugenol

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Distillation invented in Arabia

• The Arabs invented the alembic still

• Distillation is mentioned around 200 – 300 CE but the alembic still with a more efficient condensing system is invented around the 11th or 12th century CE

• Words beginning with al- are derived from Arabic

• “al” is the article or “the” in Arabic

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Arabic manuscript held in the British Library showing an alembic still

Distillation invented in Arabia

Translation of the text in the manuscript by LCF students:

To my son,

You should know that if your flame is

too strong the water will rise yellow to

where collected and will be ruined.

When your flame is utilized in the

proper way, you will obtain what you

need, having the will and support of

God. The distillate should be kept away

from sunlight until needed; then take the

oil from the water.

Arabic manuscript held in the British Library showing an alembic still

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Viburnum Burkwoodii

dianthus caryophyllus

Sweet Williamdianthus barbatus

Clove or buffalo currantRibes odorata

Fragrances including

Clove oil

Old Spice, Shulton, 1938 Opium, Yves St Laurent, 1977

Star AniseIllicium Verum

• Star anise is used in many flavourings including liquorice

• Part of the anisic note often found in male fine fragrance

八角 Bājiǎo

Frankincense or Olibanum resin

Boswellia Carterii

• Frankincense oozes from the stems of a bush and hardens in the sun

• The bushes grow in arid regions of Yemen and Southern Arabia

• In ancient times there was an incense trade route

• Wars were fought over the control of frankincense trade

Censer 3rd century BCShabwa, YemenBritish museum collection 21

Pink PepperShinus Molle

• Relatively new perfumery material (1990s onwards)

• Extraction method uses

• liquid CO2

• under high pressure

• in costly equipment

• made of 20mm thick stainless steel

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Fragrance including Pink Pepper

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Eau des Merveilles, Hermes, 2004

The sense of smell

Odour Families

History of Fragrance

Fragrance Creation

Natural ingredients

Synthetic Ingredients trend setters

The Structure of the Perfume Industry

Smell signals are sent directly to the limbic brain

Smell can trigger the reliving of a complete experience including emotions and feelings

Respect

• Specific anosmia

• Thresholds

• Attraction – Finding a mateMHC – major histocompatibility complex

Woody

Balsamic

Aldehydic

Aquatic/Ozonic

Mossy

Some Important Odour Families/Notes

Floral

Fruity

Citrus

Green

Spicy

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Odour FamiliesIntroduction activity

Woody

Green

Aquatic/ozonic

Floral

Fruity

Citrus

Smell the 6 fragrance ingredients A-F and allocate each to one of the odour families below:

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Odour FamiliesIntroduction activity

A Citrus Bergamot oil Made by cold expressionA bridge in perfumery between thecitrus and floral notes

B Green cis-3-hexenol Occurs widely in nature including in fresh cut grass, bananas and strawberries

C Aquatic or fruity

Calone Some people perceive as marine others water melon

D Fruity Amyl acetate Like pear drops a type of confectionary or nail varnish remover

E Floral Rose oil It takes 2 tonnes of rose petals to make 1 Kg of rose oil

F Woody Cedarwood oil Virginian

Reminiscent of sharpening pencils

Odour perception varies from individual to individual

a) Watermelon; fresh, sweet; reminds me of a summer picnic with watermelon to eat

b) Smells like watermelons and cucumbers; fresh, watery, aquatic feel

c) Watermelon, marine

d) Watery; fresh, light; reminds me of cucumber

e) Fresh ozonic; reminds me of sea shore, shells, fish, marine life

f) Ocean, salty, fishy; matt, wet; reminds me of a smelly beach, not pleasant

Below are some entries in the Odour Recognition Journals of students class of 2014

Each entry describes the same ingredient Calone

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Odour perception varies from individual to individual

Watermelon Cucumber Marine Aquatic – fresh pleasant

Seaweed Fishy -unpleasant

What is the odour of Calone for you?Do you perceive more than one aspect?

Calone

IUPAC name 7-Methylbenzo(1,4)dioxepin-3-one

Functional group Cyclic diether and ketone

Occurrence Not found in nature

Odour Family Aquatic

Perfumery uses Fresh ozonic, marine note and water melon. Calone is evident throughout the fragrance profile

Trend setter Calone was patented in 1966 but waited until the 1990s to create a new fashion in fragrance:

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Influence of Synthetics in 20th Century Perfumery

L’Eau d’Issey, Issey Miyake, 1992

New West for him, Aramis, 1988

Acqua di GiòGiorgio Armani1996

Perfume Creation

Accords

Top Notes

Middle or Heart Notes

Base Notes

Perfume Creation

A perfume is a harmonious bend of aromatic ingredients

Fragrance is to smell, as music is to noise

A typical fragrance contains between 20 and 100 ingredients

Perfume Creation

The creative perfumer knows the odours of each ingredient and will be able to predict what a blend might smell like

A fragrance house will have between 1000 and 6000 ingredients

Ingredients are found from every part of plants and from all over the world

Fruit

Seeds

Leaves

Rhizomes

Twigs and Branches

Bark

Heart wood

Grasses

Roots

Flowers Resins

Vetivert oil

INCI name Vetiveria Zizanoides

Geographic Origins Indonesia, Haiti, Bourbon, India

Botanical part Root

Extract Oil

Odour family Woody

Vetivert Distillation

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Vetivert bundles

Vetivert root

Vetivert oil

INCI name Vetiveria Zizanoides

Geographic Origins Indonesia, Haiti, Bourbon, India

Botanical part Root

Extract Oil

Odour family Woody

Vetivert being planted for terracing

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Vetivert is used here to help protect the more delicate crop basil

Vetivert is a grass above ground with a deep odorous root system

Ever since the dawn of the human race we have been blending smells to create harmonious odorous mixtures or perfumes

Why the word “Perfume”?

From Latin “per fumen”, meaning “through smoke” From the ancient practice of burning precious incense in religious ceremonies to cleanse and to act as a direct link with the gods

Perfume factory discovered in Pygros, Cyprus dated around 2000BC

• Chypre is the French name for the island of Cyprus

• The Chypre accord includes oakmoss, patchouli and labdanum

• Could there be a link back to fragrances made in ancient Cyprus?

ChypreCoty 1917

• Chypre is the French name for the island of Cyprus

• Coty launched his Chypre in 1917

• The modern use of the term Chypre is often attributed to Coty

Coty launched the first modern Chypre with:

Chypre, Coty, 1917

“Give a woman a fine fragrance at a price she can afford, and an industry will grow up such as the world has never seen.”

Francois Coty 1905

Coty was the first to use the new powerful absolutes in:

La Rose Jaqueminot, Coty, 1904

• www.osMoz.com

• www.fragrantica.com

• www.basenotes.net

The sense of smell

Odour Families

History of Fragrance

Fragrance Creation

Natural ingredients

Synthetic Ingredients trend setters

The Structure of the Perfume Industry

Commonly Reported Allergens INCI Names

Nature Identical: Examples of Natural occurrence:

Anisyl Alcohol

Benzyl Benzoate

Benzyl Cinnamate

Benzyl Alcohol

Benzyl Salicylate

Cinnamic Alcohol

Cinnamal

Citral

Citronellol

Coumarin

Eugenol

Farnesol

Geraniol

Isoeugenol

Limonene

Linalool

Aniseed oil

Benzoin resinoid

Benzoin resinoid

Ylang ylang oil

Ylang ylang oil

Cinnamon oils

Cinnamon oils

Lemon oil

Rose oil, geranium oil

Tonka bean absolute

Clove oil

Ylang Ylang oil

Rose oil, geranium oil

Clove oil

Citrus oils

Lavender oil

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Commonly Reported Allergens INCI Names

Not found in Nature: Trade name

Amyl Cinnamal

Amyl Cinnamic Alcohol

Hexyl Cinnamal

Butyl Phenol Methyl Propional

Hydroxyisohexyl-3-Cyclohexene Carboxaldehyde

Methyl-2-octynoate

Alpha iso Methyl Ionone

Lilial

Lyral

Natural:

Evernia PrunastriEvernia Fururacea

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Fragrance creation - The Jean Carles method

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Jean Carles (1892-1966)

THE ORIENTAL ACCORD

Balsams

VanillaBase notes

SpicesWoods

Middle notes

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THE ORIENTAL FAMILY

Shalimar Guerlain1925

1952 Youth Dew Estée Lauder

OpiumYSL1977

1985 ObsessionCalvin Klein

SamsaraGuerlain 1989

2002Dior Addict Dior

Prada Prada2004

Feminine fragrances

2012Coco NoirChanel

1898Jicky Guerlain

2012Tom Ford NoirTom Ford

Obsession for menCalvin Klein1986

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THE ORIENTAL ACCORD MASCULINE

Old SpiceShulton1931

1965Habit RougeGuerlain

Spice BombVictor & Rolf2012

Armani Code for menGiorgio Armani2004

1998Allure pour hommeChanel

CREATING YOUR OWN FRAGRANCE

Blend 1 Rosey floral

Blend 2 Jasmin floral

Blend 3 Oriental

Blend 4 Fruity floral fresh

Blend 5 Fruity floral gourmand

Blend 6 Fougère

Blend 7 Cologne

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CREATING YOUR OWN FRAGRANCE

Patchouli oil 10% Adding patchouli will create a chypre effect

Veltol plus 1% Adding veltol plus will bring a caramel gourmand note found in Angel and Prada Candy

Jasmin absolute 1% Try one drop and see how it adds complexity

Bergamot oil (bergaptene free) 10% You can add bergamot oil to lift your top note

Mandarin oil 10% You can add mandarin oil to modify your top note

Vetiver oil 10%Vetiver oil is often used in masculine fragrances

Blends well with patchouli

Cassis Base by Firmenich 10% A blackcurrant base used widely in fine fragrance

Calone 1% A drop of calone will bring aquatic freshness

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Jasmin absoluteRustic, the smell in a villageUnpleasant, strong, sharp‘Reminds me of houses for animals’

Jasmine flowerBright‘Reminds me of the jasmine in the garden at my home in Malaysia’

Jasmine, indolic, very floralSweet (floral), powdery‘Reminds me of the jasmine growing outside my apartment in Spain’

DIFFERENT RESPONSES TO JASMINE ABSOLUTE FROM STUDENTS AT LCF:

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Quiz1. Which of the following islands has an ancient history of fragrance

manufacture and is recognised in a fragrance family name today:

A – Cypress B – Fiji C – Malta

2. What is the name of the fragrance family?

3. What is the etymology of the word perfume?

4. Which of the following cultures invented the process of essential oil distillation:

A – Indian B – Chinese C – Arabic D – French

5. Which of the following is a top note fragrance ingredient?

A coumarin B vanillin C amyl acetate

6. What of the following is specific anosmia mean?

A Being able to smell a particular odour at a high concentration

B Not being able to smell one type of odour

because a particular odour receptor gene is no longer functioning

C Not being able to sleep on a particular type of fabric

7. Which of the following is a reputed benefit of rosemary oil?

A Helps memory B Helps sleep C Is anti-inflammatory

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Quiz1. Which of the following islands has an ancient history of fragrance

manufacture and is recognised in a fragrance family name today:

A – Cypress B – Fiji C – Malta

2. What is the name of the fragrance family? Chypre

3. What is the etymology of the word perfume? Through smoke

4. Which of the following cultures invented the process of essential oil distillation:

A – Indian B – Chinese C – Arabic D – French

5. Which of the following is a top note fragrance ingredient?

A coumarin B vanillin C amyl acetate

6. What of the following is specific anosmia mean?

A Being able to smell a particular odour at a high concentration

B Not being able to smell one type of odour

because a particular odour receptor gene is no longer functioning

C Not being able to sleep on a particular type of fabric

7. Which of the following is a reputed benefit of rosemary oil?

A Helps memory B Helps sleep C Is anti-inflammatory

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Sweet Smell of SuccessLondon College of Fashion

with Marianne Martin

The average person takes around 3 million breaths a year

Enjoy your sense of smell

Thank you