Lauffenmühle GmbH & Co KG Textile Production since 1834 Made in Germany Lauffenmühle GmbH & Co. KG Textile Production since 1834 ‐ Made in Germany Sustainable Textile Processes: Cradle to Cradle Sustainable Textile Processes: Cradle to Cradle ‐ A Friendly Proposal to Our Planet ‐
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Lauffenmühle GmbH & Co KG
Textile Production since 1834 Made in Germany
Lauffenmühle GmbH & Co. KG
Textile Production since 1834 ‐Made in Germany
Sustainable Textile Processes: Cradle to CradleSustainable Textile Processes: Cradle to Cradle
‐ A Friendly Proposal to Our Planet ‐
Sustainable Textile Processes: Cradle to Cradle ‐ A Friendly Proposal to Our Planet ‐
AGENDA
1. Who is Lauffenmühle – and why do we care?y
2. What does Cradle to Cradle mean?
3. Challenges of C2C Fabrics & Accessories for Corporate & Workwear
4 Textile Network Management4. Textile Network Management• Who is participating in the project?• What are the Challenges for Project Partners?
5. Facts about the Development Process, RawMaterials & Degradation
6 Result: Sustainable & Integrative System Solution6. Result: Sustainable & Integrative System Solution
7. Feedback of the Market & Preview
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Sustainable Textile Processes: Cradle to Cradle ‐ A Friendly Proposal to Our Planet ‐
• Long‐established company Lauffenmühle:180 years experience in textile manufacturing
1. Who is Lauffenmühle – and why do we care?
180 years experience in textile manufacturing
• Since 1834, the founding year as a textile company, until today, Lauffenmühle steadily developed to an contemporary fully integrated textile company.
• Situated in one of the most beautiful regions in Europe:In the southern Black Forest close to Austria Switzer
on
In the southern Black Forest, close to Austria, Switzer‐land and France – directly at the small river ‚Wutach‘.
novatio
Today, Lauffenmühle is one of the fewfully integrated
Sustainable Textile Processes: Cradle to Cradle ‐ A Friendly Proposal to Our Planet ‐
General Choice of Waste Treatment
2. What does Cradle to Cradle mean?
General Choice of Waste Treatment
• Shortage of Space • Air Pollution
• Waste remains • Global Warming
Landfill Incineration
Recycle Biodegradation
Best environmental • Ideally but not feasiblepractice:
Refeed into the bi l i l l
to all (exceptionally composite or blended)
materials
• Rarely without downgrade
Lauffenmühle GmbH & Co. KG | Corona Bregenzer www.lauffenmuehle.deMistra Future Fashion Symposium: Status May 2014
biological cycle• Rarely without downgrade
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Sustainable Textile Processes: Cradle to Cradle ‐ A Friendly Proposal to Our Planet ‐
2. What does Cradle to Cradle mean?
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Sustainable Textile Processes: Cradle to Cradle ‐ A Friendly Proposal to Our Planet ‐
2. What does Cradle to Cradle mean?
Cradle to Cradle® ‐ Do not generate waste any more:After its lifecycle each product will again be the basis for new life and thus for new raw material.Nature as an archetype is constantly reflected in the development of a Cradle to Cradle® product:Nature as an archetype is constantly reflected in the development of a Cradle to Cradle product: from a few flowers, new trees arise. All the blooms that are not used for reproduction, fall to the ground and become nutrients for other organisms.
Implementation:Endless biological recycling of all materials (including ingredients) being used.
Challenge:To find a biodegradable alternative for each of the product components,while ensuring the full performance of the product
Photosynthesis
while ensuring the full performance of the product.
The 3 Cradle to Cradle® principles:1 C l t f d
infinito®‐yarn
Decomposition
1. Cycle: waste = food
2. Energy: use of renewable energy
3. Diversity: maintaining the multiplicity and balance
Sustainable Textile Processes: Cradle to Cradle ‐ A Friendly Proposal to Our Planet ‐
4. Textile Network Management• Who is participating in the project?
What are the Challenges for Project Partners?When we decided to step ahead with pioneering Cradle to Cradle solutions for the huge Workwearmarket potential, we knew exactly about our limitations as a specialist in producing fabrics – so we decided to involve following project participants:
• What are the Challenges for Project Partners?
decided to involve following project participants:
• Bierbaum‐Proenen,as a manufacturer of high‐quality work‐ and corporate wear, standing for innovative workwear‐concepts. CHALLENGE: Dealing with new fabrics and a new type of accessories (different in p g yp (treating) ‐> being dependent on ongoing developments
• EPEA (Environmental Protection Encouragement Agency) & EPEA Switzerland,EPEA is an independent interdisciplinary scientific institute with focus on defining materials and material flows using the Cradle to Cradle Design principle for all industries. EPEA was founded in 1987 by Dr. Michael Braungart, former leader of Chemical Division of Greenpeace. EPEA Switzerland develops and implements together with a team of experienced industry and business managers Cradle to Cradle® products and services in cooperation with the scientific institute EPEAmanagers Cradle to Cradle products and services in cooperation with the scientific institute EPEA Internationale Umweltforschung GmbH in the Alpine Region (Austria, Switzerland) and the Textile Industry worldwide.CHALLENGE: Acting in a new market ( Workwear / Textile Services), examinating compatible raw materials & dealing with different ingredients, such as chemicals / dyestuff
• Cradle to Cradle Products Innovation Institute,a californian non‐profit organisation who is responsible for all the means of Cradle to Cradle
product certification processing; Challenges as above
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Sustainable Textile Processes: Cradle to Cradle ‐ A Friendly Proposal to Our Planet ‐
b h l i l & d i
Main tasks and challenges during development process:
5. Facts about the Development Process, Raw Material & Degradation
• To find according raw material, instead of polyester, which has to be safe for biological cyclesBut ‐ as shown before, our products are quite a big challenge:– Beside an excellent wearer comfort, good touch & surface properties of the fabric, we needed
– Highest technical performance during lifecycle / wearing phases (resistance against mechanical stress, light, moisture, soil & stains)
– Highest technical performance during lifecycle / processes of industrial laundries (pilling, shrinkage, crease, light, moisture, chlorine etc.)
• To find according additives/auxiliary means, e.g. dyestuff etc., which have to be safe for biological cycleswhich was not easy – as they’ll have to fulfill also the criterea as mentioned above
• Last but not least, we needed the trust of all project partners including suppliers for this projectas all of the above mentioned partners needed to disclose their formulas, recipes and production processes
hi h i th d t f th bi t h ll f th j t T hi th t il twhich in the end meant one of the biggest challenges of the project: To achieve that milestonewouldn’t have been possible without the stake of independent institutes – acting as Knowledge Trustees –who needed to support with their team of scientists (analytical chemists, biologists …)
T d l & f b i d f t ti d b ff i th f d d• To develop yarns & fabrics, made from components as mentioned above, offering the performance needed
• To do all the testing for biodegradability by composting fibres, fabrics & garments / ongoing (accessories)
• The product design and certification process itself meant material research & assessment as well as process evaluation: 1. Material Assessment
It was a quite hard way to step through all stages to fulfill all requirements of accredited assessor body C2CPII – USA
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Sustainable Textile Processes: Cradle to Cradle ‐ A Friendly Proposal to Our Planet ‐
b h l i l & d i
infinito®: made of oil‐based and ecofriendly degradable polymer
5. Facts about the Development Process, Raw Material & Degradation
Bi 3GT
Decomposability Oil based Bio-sourced↓
Non‐biodegradable:
Commodity Polymers:
PE, PP, Nylon, PET
Bio3GT
infinito®
Cotton
Bio‐degradable: infinito
PLA
Bio degradable:
I Ch f N
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Important Character from Nature
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Sustainable Textile Processes: Cradle to Cradle ‐ A Friendly Proposal to Our Planet ‐
b h l i l & d i
infinito®: fibres, made from an oil‐based polymer (needs no land suitable for food) which is safe for biological cycles Advantage: it can be blended with natural fibres and
5. Facts about the Development Process, Raw Material & Degradation
which is safe for biological cycles. Advantage: it can be blended with natural fibres and will strengthen them.
Innovation: Artificial Fibre + Traditionally used for
Polyester/Cotton‐Blend infinito®/ Natural or bio‐sourced Fibre Blend
Degradable Feature:⇓Work‐ and Corporatewear:
• Non‐degradable
I i i i h l• Degradable (same as e.g. cotton and wool)
• Incineration is the only way
• Not easy to recycle
• Widely used nowadays
• Material Returns to the Earth by Natural Process
• infinito®: strengthens natural fibres
• Broad application possibilities
Lauffenmühle GmbH & Co. KG | Corona Bregenzer www.lauffenmuehle.deMistra Future Fashion Symposium: Status May 2014
pp p
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Sustainable Textile Processes: Cradle to Cradle ‐ A Friendly Proposal to Our Planet ‐
b h l i l & d i
Raw Material „infinito®“
5. Facts about the Development Process, Raw Material & Degradation
Environmental Performance
R d i th t f t i l b f th t i t l f i dlReducing the amount of waste in volume by one of the most environmental friendlymethods – compost: infinito® is an eco‐friendly degradable type of polymer decomposing over the time
d b l b b | b d f d d– Degradability in compost by microbe | Aerobe & defined conditions
Functional Performance
Taking advantage of infinito® properties to reinforce natural fibres which are also sustainable and degradable.
– Static protection (quick water absorption)Static protection (quick water absorption)
– Softness (softer than Polyester)
– Brightness like silk
®
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Sustainable Textile Processes: Cradle to Cradle ‐ A Friendly Proposal to Our Planet ‐
b h l i l & d i
Degradation of infinito®: Operating Mode
5. Facts about the Development Process, Raw Material & Degradation
Degradation of infinito : Operating Mode
I. Hydrolysis
Ecco‐Friendly Degradation
In the specifically‐conditioned compost* infinito® is hydrolyzed (decrease in molecular(decrease in molecular weight and decrease in weight due to disin‐tegration) by water, heat
II. Degradation
and microorganism, and metabolized by microorganism to generate water and
First step was testing thefibres of all components
reworx® fabricsmade from50/50 %
/ raw material seperatly:
1. infinito® fibres
50/50 %infinito®/ Lyocell(Tencel by Lenzing)
2. Tencel® fibres( y g)
1. Fabrics
2. Garments
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Sustainable Textile Processes: Cradle to Cradle ‐ A Friendly Proposal to Our Planet ‐
b h l i l & d i
Important Fact: Decomposing without any harm to the soil or the environment.
5. Facts about the Development Process, Raw Materials & Degradation
Monocotyledonous plant growth test with infinito® degraded compost
No compost100 % soil
50 % Compost (without infinito®)
50 % Soil
50 % infinito® degradedCompost
50 % Soil50 % Soil(No Influence)
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Sustainable Textile Processes: Cradle to Cradle ‐ A Friendly Proposal to Our Planet ‐
Result: Sustainable & Integrative System Solution: Yarns & Textiles
Take‐Make‐Use‐Regenerate: infinito® yarns / reworx® textiles are safe for biological systems, offer a climate control function, aresystems, offer a climate control function, are suitable for industrial laundering with excellent performance results for easy care, light fastness, high abrasion and pilling
i Th d i d i d dresistance. The product is designed and qualified to be used for work wear as well as for other high performance textile products and applications.pp
infinito® yarns / reworx® textiles are Cradle to CradleCM certified at gold level: After use and more than 50 cleaning cycles theand more than 50 cleaning cycles the products will be collected and forwarded to an industrial composting facility where the textiles will safely transform to humus ‐which then means living space for other organisms: new life is generated.
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Sustainable Textile Processes: Cradle to Cradle ‐ A Friendly Proposal to Our Planet ‐
Result: Sustainable & Integrative System Solution:Apparel made with reworx® textiles
Work Wear, Apparel made with reworx® textiles are Cradle to CradleCM certified at silver l l f d h llevel: After use and more than 50 cleaning cycles the products will be collected and forwarded to an industrial composting facility where the textiles will safely transform to yhumus ‐ which then means living space for other organisms: new life is generated.
L ff hl t til i ti C dl tLauffenmuehle textile innovation. Cradle to Cradle certified Work Wear, Apparels made from reworx® textiles are exclusively produced by licencees of Lauffenmuehle GmbH & Co. KG, Germany, a fully vertically integrated textile manufacturer ‐ with more than 175 years of experience in producing yarns and textiles.First Licensee of Work Wear Apparel madeFirst Licensee of Work Wear, Apparel made from reworx®:
Bierbaum‐Proenen (BP)Collection BP Bio Cycle
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Collection BP Bio Cycle
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Sustainable Textile Processes: Cradle to Cradle ‐ A Friendly Proposal to Our Planet ‐
Feedback of the market: • Products were first launched during A+A (Arbeitsschutz & Arbeitssicherheit) inter‐national Trade Fair in November 2013.
• The Feedback was overwhelming and several new projects are defined (We can’t announce them as there are secrecy agreements with our partners)secrecy agreements with our partners)
Preview:1 Continue the work on the toolkit1. Continue the work on the toolkit
containing accessories / partially we already do have solutions.