Textile Sector- Overview The share of textile industry in the economy along with its contribution to exports, employment, foreign exchange earnings, investment and value added makes it the single largest manufacturing sector for Pakistan. It contributes around 8.5 percent to GDP, employs 38 percent of the total manufacturing labor force, and contributes between 60-70 percent to total merchandise exports. Indeed, with exports reaching about $8.6 billion in 2004-05, Pakistan is one of the largest textile exporters in the world. The variety of products ranges from cotton yarn to knitwear. Garment made-ups and bed wear are the most important export products with an export value of about $1.35 billion each. Knitwear, ready made garments and cotton yarn also have important shares in total exports. Overall, the US and the EU are Pakistan’s largest trading partners accounting for 25 percent and 20 percent share of Pakistani exports respectively. Other major importers include China, UAE and Saudi Arabia. Textile trade is classified into two broad categories i.e. textile which include yarn, fabric and made-ups, and clothing which represents readymade garments. Investment in Textile Sector Textile industry has made an investment of about $6.0 billion during the last six years. This investment includes both investments through bank loans as well as own sources. This investment has been made in the form of BMR expansion and new capacity. Textile machinery worth US$ 0.6 billion has been imported during 2005-06. the import of textile machinery for the last seven years are documented in Table and Sector wise Investment is shown in figure
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Textile Sector- Overview The share of textile industry in the economy along with its contribution to exports, employment, foreign exchange earnings, investment and value added makes it the single largest manufacturing sector for Pakistan. It contributes around 8.5 percent to GDP, employs 38 percent of the total manufacturing labor force, and contributes between 60-70 percent to total merchandise exports. Indeed, with exports reaching about $8.6 billion in 2004-05, Pakistan is one of the largest textile exporters in the world. The variety of products ranges from cotton yarn to knitwear. Garment made-ups and bed wear are the most important export products with an export value of about $1.35 billion each. Knitwear, ready made garments and cotton yarn also have important shares in total exports. Overall, the US and the EU are Pakistan’s largest trading partners accounting for 25 percent and 20 percent share of Pakistani exports respectively. Other major importers include China, UAE and Saudi Arabia. Textile trade is classified into two broad categories i.e. textile which include yarn, fabric and made-ups, and clothing which represents readymade garments.
Investment in Textile Sector Textile industry has made an investment of about $6.0 billion during the last six years. This investment includes both investments through bank loans as well as own sources. This investment has been made in the form of BMR expansion and new capacity. Textile machinery worth US$ 0.6 billion has been imported during 2005-06. the import of textile machinery for the last seven years are documented in Table and Sector wise Investment is shown in figure
Table- 3.4 Import of Textile Machinery
Year Million US $ % Change 1999-2000 210.9 28.6 2000-01 370.2 75.5 2001-02 406.2 9.9 2002-03 531.9 30.7 2003-04 597.9 12.4 2004-05 700 17 2005-06 (Jul-Mar) 654.2 -6.5 Total 3472 Source: Federal Bureau of Statistics
Reforms in the Textile Sector The government is providing support for the local production of textile machinery. A wide ranging campaign to produce contamination free cotton in the country with a view to promoting value addition has already been started. As a result, the cotton prices are now being quoted on a PSCI grade standard basis. To ensure an abundant supply within the country, cotton is allowed to be imported and exported freely. To stabilize prices in the domestic market, the Trading Corporation of Pakistan (TCP) has been intervening as and when required. In order to prepare the textile industry in the post quota regime the government has set up a high level Federal Textile Board with Textile Commissioner’s Organization serving as its Secretariat. The Board has been entrusted the task of looking into the issues of clean cotton, labor, social and environment laws, modernization of ginneries, rationalization of tariffs, facilitation in sales tax issues and developing a package to promote garment sector, especially by improving their competitiveness in international market.
Source: Economic Survey 2005- 06
Textile Sector – A Snap Shot Total Number Of Units (2005)
Ginning 1221 Spinning 445
Weaving Large
140
Small 425 Power Looms 20600
Finishing
Large 106 Small 625
Garments 5000
Large 600 Knitwear 700
400 Towels
Total Capacities: 1900 Million Kgs Yarn Spinning: 5600 Million Sq. Mtr. Fabric Weaving: 3500 Million Sq. Mtr Finishing: 650 Million PCs. Garments:
350 Million PCs. Knitwear: 55 Million Kgs. Towels:
Ginning: More than 10 Million Bales At Present, the industry consists of large-scale organized sector and a highly fragmented cottage / small-scale sector. The organized sector comprises integrated textile mills i.e. spinning units with Shuttle-less looms. The down stream industry (Weaving, Finishing, Garments, Towels & Hosiery), with great export potential, is mostly in the unorganized sector. The following table depicts the magnitude of the textile industry.
Large Scale Mill Sector
Sub Sector No. Of Units Size Production
1. Spinning 403 9.2 million spindles 1550 M. Kgs.
2. Composite Units 50 9,876 Looms 384 M. Sq. meter
Total 453
3. Independent Weaving Units 124 23,600 shuttle-less looms
4. Finishing Units 10
5. Garments Units 50 5,000 Sewing machines
Cottage / Small Scale Sector
Sub Sector No. Of Units Size Production
1. Independent Weaving Units 453 50,000 Looms 3600 M. Sq. meter
2. Power Looms 20,600 175,200 Looms Total 21053 225,200
3. Finishing 625 Cotton 2700 M. Sq. meter
4. Terry Towels 400 7,602 Looms 53 M. Kgs.
5. Garments 2,500 300,000 Sewing machines 600 M. Pcs.
6. Knitwear 600 12,000 Knitting machines 400 M. PCs.
Cotton is a natural fiber used primarily as a raw material in textile industry. Being a major crop, Cotton is an economic asset of Pakistan. The cotton production has been estimated 14 million bales approximately for the year 2004-2005. Both Punjab and Sindh are the major cotton growing provinces and their share in total cotton production is estimated at 76% and 23% respectively.
Cotton Seed Market Rate Dated: September 29, 2006
Rupees per 40 Kgs 1) P u n j a b N/A 2) S i n d h N/A
(RYK) (Nawabshah)
(EXPORTS) Registration 2005-06: Bales, 3,46,549
PERIOD (MY 2005-06) CROP BALES
01-08-05 to 15-09-2006 2005 - 2006 13,446
01-08-05 to 15-09-2006 2004 - 2005 12,143 Total 25,589
Source: Export Promotion Bureau.
Shipments PERIOD - (MY 2005-06) Qty. in Bales Aug., 05 to June.,06 405,105 July.,06 7,129
412,234 Total-Source: Federal Bureau of Statistics
(IMPORTS)
Qty. in Bales of 170 Kg s PERIOD (MY 2005-06)
Aug,05 to April.,06 1,691,206 May., 2006 100,694
Total - 1,791,900 Source: Federal Bureau of Statistics
Mills Consumption of Raw Cotton Cotton Season 2005-06
Month Bales Aug.,05 to Dec.,05 5,383,104 Jan., 2006 1,100,035
Total :- 6,483,139 Source: Textile Commissioner's Organization
ARRIVALS / SALES CROP 2005-06 (As on May 01, 2006) Corrected by The PCGA
In Bales
Punjab Sindh Pakistan
Total Arrivals 9,849,284 2,545,505 12,394,789 Sales to TCP --- --- --- '' to Exporters 14,850.00 59,550 74,400 '' to Mill 9,173,807.00 2,343,972 1,151,779 Unsold Stock as on 01-05-06 802,610 Source: PCGA
TEXTILE VISION -2005 Cotton has been cultivated in the sub-continent over the last 3000 years. The indigenous variety of cotton, known as "Desi Cotton" has been cultivated in the Indus valley since the ancient period of Mohenjo Daro civilization . Genetically, cotton plant is a perennial and flourished in cotton forests but it was adapted as a seasonal crop for higher productivity with advancement of farming technology.
The Desi cotton contains rough fibre characteristics with a staple length of around 20mm and micronaire count of over 5.5. These features make it suitable for a limited use for the production of denims, tarpaulins, Khaddar cloth and other rough fabrics spun and weaved locally in the cottage industry. The British introduced American cotton in the subcontinent at the beginning of 20th century. The genotypes were imported from the North American continent initially and a test-cultivation was made in South Western Indian regions. Dr. Mohammad Afzal, a prominent cotton breeder , introduced the American genotype in Punjab by cross-breeding of Desi with American cotton - 3F variety produced in 1917. Since then cotton cultivation has shifted from desi to ‘American’ varieties in Punjab and Sindh, which are primarily crosses of new American breeds with 3F progenies. Because of its finer fibre characteristics, staple length of over 25mm and micronaire below 4.5, American Cotton is capable of being spun at higher counts to produce finer cloth. It is also for use in fabrics blended with man-made fibres. Cotton has played a very significant role in Pakistan’s agro-economy because of the fact that it provides lint for fabrics and seed for edible oil. There was a rapid expansion of cotton cultivation during the late 50’s and 60’s and more area came under cultivation from central Punjab to the Southern Punjab. Short-medium staple varieties like 13/26; B-557 and 4F were grown extensively during the 60’s and early 70’s. With the establishment of the Central Cotton Research Institute in Multan, cotton breeding process attained momentum in the country. Later, the Provincial Cotton Research Station, Multan and Nuclear Institute of Agriculture & Biology (NIAB) at Faisalabad launched breeding programs that produced a number of new high- yielding varieties in the late 70’s and early 80’s, which contributed to the phenomenal growth in cotton production during 80’s. Since 1991-92 when cotton leaf curl virus (CLCV) hit cotton production adversely, the focus of cotton breeding has been on virus resistance. The new virus resistant varieties had a lower yield potential and lower Ginning out Turn percentage (GOT) but recent developments in breeding have managed to produce genotypes that are resistant to CLCV and have a higher GOT with medium long fibre characteristics. Over the next few years, Pakistan, especially lower Punjab is expected to switch over to these new varieties, which are perfectly matched to the international industry requirements. Pakistan is favourably poised to meet the challenges of the times. The prime characteristic common to most Pakistani varieties is the fibre strength, which is the best in the world. If other factors like clean picking, good ginning and elimination of contamination can be managed, local cotton is perhaps the best in the world. Unfortunately, this quality potential was never achieved largely due to the marketing anomalies prevalent in the cotton markets, which impeded the incorporation of the desired technological perfections. Source: Textile Vision 2005
Cotton Cotton is a natural fiber used primarily as a raw material in textile industry. Being a major crop, Cotton is an economic asset of Pakistan. The cotton production has been estimated 12 million bales approximately for the year 2005-2006. Both Punjab and Sindh are the major cotton growing provinces and their share in total cotton production is estimated at 76% and 23% respectively
According to Pakistan Economic Survey 2005-06, cotton accounts for 8.6 percent of the value added in agriculture and about 1.9 percent to GDP. The area and production target for cotton crop during the current fiscal year were 3247 thousand hectares and 15.0 million bales, respectively. The crop was however, sown on the area of 3096 thousand hectares – 4.6 percent less than the target and 3 percent less than last year (3193 thousand hectares). The major cotton producing countries in the world include China, India, Pakistan, USA and the European Union besides the central Asian and African states
Cotton, Area, Production And Yield Area Production Yield
Year (000 Hectare)
% Change
(000 Bales)
% Change (Kgs/Hec) %
Change 2001-02 3116 6.5 10613 -1.1 579 -7.2
2002-03 2794 -10.3 10211 -3.8 622 7.4
2003-04 2989 7.0 10048 -1.6 572 -8.0
2004-05 3193 6.8 14265 42.0 760 32.9
2005-06 (P) 3096 -3.0 12417 -13.0 682 -10.3
Provisional (July-March). Source: Ministry of Food, Agriculture and Livestock Federal Bureau of Statistics.
Fiber Pakistan is among the major global producers and exporters of textiles and apparel. Cotton was primarily used as raw material in Yarn manufacturing but the growing demand for blended yarn and fabrics has shifted the raw-
material source towards the Man-Made or Synthetic Fiber in Pakistan. Pakistan is among the major global producers and exporters of textiles and apparel. Cotton was primarily used as raw material in Yarn manufacturing but the growing demand for blended yarn and fabrics has shifted the raw-material source towards the Man-Made or Synthetic Fiber in Pakistan. The MMF industry in Pakistan has gradually developed during the last decade but still Pakistan usage is currently at 74% cotton and 26% man-made fibers, whereas the world fiber mix is 45% cotton and 55% man-made fiber Man-made Fiber sub-sector is organized and most of the production is from the five key players producing Polyester Staple Fiber (PSF)
CONSUMPTION OF RAW MATERIAL (PAKISTAN) (Fig. in '000' Kgs)
RAW MATERIAL GROWTH % % OF TOTAL Period Cotton Fiber Total Cotton Fiber Cotton Fiber
Synthetic Fiber Manufacturing Sector This sector has made progress in line with demand of the textile industry. Presently there are seven polyester fiber units with production capacity of 625,000 tons per annum, two acrylic fiber units of which one unit has started its Commercial production in December 1999 with rated capacity of 25,000 tons per annum while other unit of crescent group is under installation. One unit of viscose fiber with a capacity of 10,000 tons has also gone into production. Besides, import of fibers is also permissible to supplement the local production
Filament Yarn Manufacturing Industry The synthetic filament yarn manufacturing industry picked up momentum during 5th Five Year Plan when demand and hence imports increased and private sector was permitted to make feasible investment in the rising market conditions. Following three kinds of filament yarn are manufactured locally: Production capacity of polyester filament yarn has increased while the demand for local synthetic weaving industry is export sales are not feasible and local market is heavily flooded with smuggled goods. The production of polyester filament yarn is approximately 78000 tones per annum. The duty on filament yarn was reduced last year. While it was helpful to the synthetic weaving units, its impact on the filament industry is evident in the form of closure. Recently hosiery sector has started consuming synthetic yarns for export of knitted garments, which are, both value added as well as diversified in product. Capacity of Synthetic Filament Yarn
Type of Yarn No. of Units Production Capacity (Metric Tons)
Accetate Rayon Yarn 1 3,000 Nylon Filament Yarn 3 2,000 Polyester Filament Yarn 21 95,000 Total 100,000 Art Silk and Synthetic Weaving Industry Art silk and synthetic weaving industry has developed over the time on cottage based power looms units comprising of 8-10 looms spread all over the country. There are approximately 90, 000 looms in operation of which 30, 000 looms are working on blended yarn and 60,000 loom on filament yarn. Besides there are some mobile looms which become operational on market demand. The major concentration is in Karachi, Faisalabad, Gujranwala, and Jalalpur Jattan as well as in the unsettled area (Bara, Sawat, Khyber Agency and Waziristan). Source: APTMA, Economic Survey 2005-06
Installed/Production Capacities of Synthetic Fiber in Pakistan
Manufacturers Installed Capacity (Metric Tons) A. Polyester Staple Fiber 1. Dewan Salman Fiber 265,000 2. Ibrahim Fibers Limited 209,000 3. ICI Pakistan Limited 115,000 4. Rupali Polyester Limited 23,000 5. Pakistan Synthetics Limited 27,000 TOTAL 639,000 B. Acrylic Staple Fiber 1. Dewan Salman Fiber 25,000 C. Viscose Staple Fiber 1. Chemi Viscose Fiber Limited 10,000
Grand Total 674,000
Source: PSF Manufacturers (APTMA)
Spinning
Spinning is the process of converting fibers into yarn. The fibers may be natural fibers such as cotton or manmade fibers such as polyester. Sometimes, the term spinning is also used for production of manmade filament yarn (yarn that is not made from fibers). Whatsoever is the case, the final product of spinning is yarn.
Spinning is the process of converting fibres into yarn. The fibres may be natural fibres such as cotton or man-made fibres (MMFs) such as polyester. Sometimes, term spinning is also used for production of man-made filament yarn (yarn that is not made from fibres). Whatsoever is the case, the final product of spinning is yarn. Cotton value chain starts from Ginning that adds value to it by separating cotton from seed and impurities but Spinning can rightly be called as the first process of the chain that adds value to cotton by converting into a new product i.e. conversion from ginned cotton into cotton yarn. The importance of spinning cannot be overemphasized. Since spinning is in the beginning of value chain, so all the later value added processes of weaving, knitting, processing, garments and made-ups manufacturing are dependent upon it. If spinning industry produces sub-standard yarn, its effect goes right across the entire value chain. The spinning sector forms the heart of the textile industry. This sector produces yarn for downstream sectors, namely weaving, processing and knitting. Pakistan is the third largest player in Asia with a spinning capacity of 5% of the total world and 7.6% of the capacity in Asia. Pakistan’s growth rate has been 6.2% per annum and is second only to Iran amongst the major players. At present, cotton-spinning sector is comprised of 458 textile units (50 composite units and 408 spinning units) with 8.8 million spindles and 77 thousand rotors in operation with capacity utilization of 87 percent and 49 percent respectively, during July-Feb 2005-06
Weaving
Weaving sector is one of the most important textile sub-sectors. The exports of woven fabrics and other related woven made-ups form a major portion of textile exports from Pakistan. There are three different sub-sectors in weaving i.e, Integrated, independent Weaving Units, and Power Loom Units. Investment has taken place in shuttle less loom, both in integrated and independent weaving sector. Further investment in this sector will be forthcoming in the medium term.
Installed and Capacity Worked in Weaving Sector Installed Capacity
Effective/ Capacity Worked Category
(a) Integrated Textile Units 9050 4350 (b) Independent Weaving Units 27500 27000 (c) Power Loom Sector 295442 285442
Total 331992 316792 Source: Textile Commissioner Organization
The Power Loom Sector has modernized and registered a phenomenal growth over the last two decades. The growth in power loom sector owes to a larger extent on the government policies pursued this far as well as increased demand for the product. This sector is producing comparatively low value added Grey Cloth of mostly inferior quality. Problems of the power loom sector revolve mainly around the poor technology, scarcity of quality yarn and lack of institutional financing for its development from unorganized sector to an organized one. There is need for training facilities and guidance to diversify their products, especially to cater the needs of the garment industry. However, the performance of cloth sector remained in 2006 is far better than the year 2005.
A) Integrated Textile Mills These are composite units with spinning and weaving operation at one premise. There are about 50 integrated textile units with an installed capacity of about 9,050 looms. Recent phenomenon of induction of Shuttle-less looms, viz. Projectile and Air jet looms, in this sector is a healthy sign. As the pace of investment increases, the number of modern looms in this sector is on increase. However, the textile millers still prefer to set up an independent weaving unit rather than integrated ones. B) Independent Weaving Units This is a new segment of weaving units, which is in the process of coming up on the same pattern as independent spinning units. Motivated by market demand and government incentives as well as shift towards high quality fabrics, the entrepreneurs are establishing independent weaving units with shuttle-less looms. These looms are
both second-hand and new ones and employ the modern technology of Rapier, Projectile and Air jet looms. C) Power Loom Sector The power loom sector has registered a phenomenal growth over the last two decades. New automatic cop-change looms of local origin are being added. The trend is to add wider width looms to produce cloth for exports. The growth of power loom sector has been due to market forces. This sector is producing comparatively low value added Grey cloth of mostly inferior quality
Mr. Muhammad Ismail Qureshi Secretary Food, Agriculture & Livestock Address : B Block, Pak Secretariat, Islamabad, Pakistan Tel : +92-51-9203307, 9210351 Fax : +92-51-9210616
Mr. Muhammad Ali Malkani Minister of State Food, Agriculture & Livestock Address : B Block, Pak Secretariat, Islamabad, Pakistan Tel : +92-51-9209214 Fax : +92-51-9210616
Mr. Sikandar Hayat Khan Bosan, Minister of Food, Agriculture & Livestock
Address : B Block, Pak Secretariat, Islamabad, Pakistan Tel : +92-51-9203307, 9210351 Fax : +92-51-9210616
Pakistan Hosiery Manufacturers Association37-H, Block-6, PECHS Karachi Phone: 4522769, 4522685, 4544765 Fax: 4543774 Pakistan Readymade Garments Manufacturers & Exporters Association18-A, Shaheen View Building, Block VI, PECHS, Shahra-e-Faisal Karachi Phone: 4549073, 4547912, 44533327 Fax: 4539669 Pakistan Silk & Ryon Mills AssociationRoom No 44, 48 & 49, 5th Floor, Textile Plaza, MA Jinnah Road Karachi Phone: 2410288, 2415261 Fax: 2419772 Pakistan Small Units Powerlooms Association2nd Floor, waqas plaza, Aminpur bazar Faisalabad Phone: 627992, 6808821 Fax: 633567 Pakistan Yarn Merchants AssociationRoom No 804-4, 8th Floor, Business Centre, Dunolly Road, Off I.I Chundrigar Road Karachi Phone: 2410320 Fax: 2424896 Towel Manufacturers Association of Pakistan12th Floor, Kashif Centre, Near Hotel Mehran, Shahra-e-Faisal Karachi Phone: 111-360-360, 5654991 F ax: 5677132
Pakistan Cotton Ginners AssociationRoom No. 1118-1120 11th Floor Uni Plaza I.I Chundirigar Road Karachi Phone: 021 - 2411406, 2411882 Fax: 021 - 2423181 Pakistan Footwear Manufacturers Association6-F, Rehman Business Center, 32-B-III, Gulberg III Lahore Phone: 5750051 Fax: 5750052 Pakistan Tanners AssociationPlot # 46-C, 21st Commercial Street,Phase-II, Extension, Defence Housing Authority Karachi Phone: 021-5880180/5880184/5803468 Fax: 021-5880093 All Pakistan Textile Mills AssociationAPTMA House, 44-A, Lalazar, Off. Moulvi Tamizuddin Khan Road Karachi Phone: 111-700-000 (5610181, 561019-2 & 5610195) F ax: 5611305 All Pakistan Cloth Exporters Association30/7, New Civil lines Behind State Bank of Pakistan Faisalabad Phone: 615563, 644750-1 Fax: 617985
Textile Industry Training
KARACHI Textile Institute of Pakistan (TIP)S.M.A. Rizvi Textile InstitutePakistan Bed Wear Design Training InstitutePakistan Readymade Garment Technical Training InstituteFashion Apparel Design & Training InstituteInstitute of Textile Technology & ManagementPHMA Institute of Knitwear Technology LAHORE Pakistan School of Fashion DesignPakistan Knitwear Training InstitutePakistan Readymade Garment Technical Training InstituteNational Textile CollegeAllied College of Textile Management & Administration (ACTMA)University of Management and Technology (UMT)PrestonIqra University FAISALABAD National Textile University MULTAN College of Textile Engineering, Bahauddin Zakaria University