Testing & Product quality is of prime importance in any aspect of business. Customers demand and expect value for money. As producers of apparel there must be a constant endeavor to produce work of good quality. To assess the quality of textile product Textile Testing is very important work or process. Checking Raw Materials, Monitoring Production, Assessing the Final Product, Investigation of Faulty Material Product, Development and Research testing is done. For testing a textile product in a testing lab some flow diagram has to be maintained. Test & Report Sending Flow Chart: Sample Received with Artwork Letter –Cover Page Submitted to Lab for testing Collect tested data from lab Collect tested Artwork Letter –Cover Page soft copy from supplier Draft report on Artwork Letter –Cover Page soft copy in tested result page If result pass then type Pass & If fail then type Failwith test result, Send report excel sheet soft copy to Cover page mension email address After that they send a mail with Reach, Okeo- Tex, Bill of material & Summery Create Report word formate and then pdf, Sign 3rd page of reach then scan in pdf, Summary pdf Send report to asign Adli Merchantiser for Carrection &Approval After Approval, send report to TUV Aldi Sud Team for sending final report to Adli South/North
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Testing & Product quality is of prime importance in any aspect of business. Customers demand
and expect value for money. As producers of apparel there must be a constant endeavor to produce work
of good quality. To assess the quality of textile product Textile Testing is very important work or process.
Checking Raw Materials, Monitoring Production, Assessing the Final Product, Investigation of Faulty
Material Product, Development and Research testing is done. For testing a textile product in a
testing lab some flow diagram has to be maintained.
pH Formaldehyde Azo Dyes (EN /German) (Textile/Polyester) AP (NP+OP) APEO (NPEO+OPEO) APEO/AP (NPEO+OPEO+NP+OP) Total Lead In Substrate Materials Total Lead In Surface Coating Total Cadmium Content Release Of Nickel (EN12472/1811) Release Of Nickel (EN1811) Phthalates Content Phenols (OPP) Phenols (PCP + TeCP) Nickel Spot Test Carcinogenic Dyes Chlorinated Organic Carriers Chlorinated Paraffins (C10-C13) Chromium VI Extractable Heavy Metal (ISO 105 E04) Heavy Metal In Surface Coating (ASTM F963-07) Identification Of PVC (Beilstein + FTIR) PAH Tin Organic Compounds (TBT/DBT) Toxic Heavy Metal (EN 71 Part 3) Allergenic Disperse Dyes Dimethylfumarate (DMF) KIK chemical test package Takko test package Carrefour test package Others
Colorfastness, Flammability &Fiber test for textile product
- Test Name Test
Description
Standard Method
AATCC ASTM D
BS / EN ISO
DIN
OTHERS
C / F To Washing C / F To Water C / F To Sea Water C / F To Perspiration C / F To Light
C / F To Crocking C / F To Cl-Bleach C / F To Non Cl-Bleach C / F To Dry Cleaning C / F To Ozone C / F To Burnt Gas Fumes C / F To Saliva C / F To Aging C / F To Dye Transfer C / F To Phenolic Yellowing C / F To Chlorinated Pool Water Fiber content Flammability( 16 CFR 1610) Flammability( 16 CFR 1615/
1616)
Others
Wet Lab & Physical test for textile product
- Test Name Test Description
Standard Method
AATCC ASTM D
BS / EN ISO
DIN
OTHERS
Dimensional Stability To Washing
Appearance after washing Spirality after washing Tear strength Tensile strength Seam slippage Seam strength Abrasion resistance Pilling resistance Pull/tension test Zipper strength Thread count Yarn count Stretch & Recovery Bursting Strength Sharp Point/ Edge Small Parts Torque Test Fabric Weight Endurance To Washing Print Durability Others
Strength of Textile Products: Breaking strength
The maximum tensile force recorded in extending a test piece to breaking point is called breaking strength
or tensile strength of a material.
In other word the resistance of a yarn or fabric to tensile biding is called tensile or breaking strength.
Tearing strength The avgas force required to continue a tear previously started in a fabric is called the tensile strength.
In other word tearing strength (force) is the resistance showed by fabric against tearing.
Bursting strength
Busting is the resistance of a material to rupture when subjected to a pressure acting perpendicular to the
plain of the fabric. The load is carried by both warp & waft thread.
In tearing or breaking strength, the strength of fabric was tested by applied load is only one direction, But
in case of bursting strength the direction resistance to rupture of a circular specimen in determined.
TENSILE PROPERTIES
The behavior shown by the textile materials when it is subjected to a load or tension is called tensile
properties.
TYPES OF TENSILE PROPERTIES
1. Tenacity
2. Breaking Extension.
3. Initial Modulus.
4. Work of Rupture
5. Breaking Load
6. Work Factor
7. Work Recovery
8. Elastic Extension
TENACITY
It is defined the ratio between load required to break the specimen to Linear Density of the specimen is
called Tenacity
Load required breaking specimen
Tenacity=
Lanier Density
Unit of Tenacity : kg/Tex, N/Tex, gm/Denier
BREAKING EXTENSION
Load required to a break a Textile Materials is useful quantity. It can be defined as the % increase in
length of the Textile materials of breaking after applying load on it increase length
Increase length × 100
Breaking Extension=
Total length or initial length
INITIAL MADULAUS
The tangent of angle between initial curve and Horizontal axis in equal to the ratio between stress and
stress.
Stress
TanӨ =
Strain
WORK & RUPTURE
Total work done are total energy required to break the Textile Materials is called as word rupture.
Unit for Work & Rupture: Jule/Calory.
BREAKING LOAD
Load is required to break the Textile materials is called Breaking Load.
WORK FACTOR
It can be defined as the ratio between work of rupture & the product of Breaking load and breaking
elongation.
Work of Rupture
Work Factor =
Breaking load and breaking elongation.
WORK RECOVERY
The ratio between work of rapture during recovery & total work done for total extension in known as
work recovery.
TOTAL EXTENSION
Elastic Extension + Plastic Extension.
Total work done for total extension= Work done for elastic extension + work done for plastic extension.
Work of Rapture during Recovery
Work Recovery=
Total work done for Total Extension
ELASTIC RECOVERY
The Recovery for the extension of the Textile materials after load is called Elastic Recovery of Textile
materials depend on Crystalinity, Molecular weight, Packing Orientation, Chemical bond.
For Example
A B C D
AB= Initial length of specimen
BC= Elastic Extension
CD= Plastic Extension
BD= Total Extension
Elastic Extension
Elastic Recovery= ×100
Total Extension
Tensile Strength: Determination of breaking force and elongation of textile fabrics. - (ISO 13934-2)
Significance
It indicates the potential strength of woven fabric within a product in resistance to tension.
This test method is not recommended for knitted fabrics and other textile fabrics which have high
stretchability (more than 11%).
The fabric is conditioned in a standard environment of 20 ± 2°C and 65 ± 4% relative humidity for at least
24 hours. The fabric is cut into specific specimen sizes 200mm x 100mm. Both warpwise and weftwise
directions are required. Test specimens are mounted on a tensile tester along the long dimension and
subjected to a constant rate of extension. The loading force at point of rupture or break is recorded as
tensile strength.
General Note:
Coarser yarn size gives a greater tensile strength
High twist yarn gives a greater tensile strength
Higher fabric count gives a greater tensile strength
Different fiber possess different tensile properties
Tearing Strength: Determination of the average force required to continue a tear from a slit in a woven fabric
by means of falling pendulum (Elmendorf) apparatus. - (ISO 13937-1)
Significance
It indicates the potential strength of woven fabric within a product in resistance to tearing
action.
The method is applicable to treated and untreated woven fabrics, including those heavily
sized, coated or resin-treated. The test is not suitable for knit fabrics, felts or non-woven
fabrics.
The fabric is conditioned in a standard environment of 20 ± 2°C and 65 ± 4% relative
humidity for at least 4 hours. Specimens, for both warpwsie and weftwise, of specific
shape are die-cut from the sample fabric. The specimens are mounted between two
clamps, precut by a knife then torn through a fixed distance by the swinging pendulum to
generate the average tearing force in pounds for both the warp and weft directions.
Sample size for Pendulum tear Important Note:
Coarser yarn size gives greater tearing strength
Looser sett gives better tearing strength
Different surface finishes on the fabric will affecting the tearing properties
Bursting Strength Determination of bursting strength of textile fabrics using hydraulic method. - (ISO 13938-1)
Significance
It indicates the potential strength of the knitted fabric within a product.
The fabric is conditioned in a standard environment of 20 ± 2°C and 65 ± 4% relative humidity according
to ISO 139. Test specimen is clamped over an expandable diaphragm. The diaphragm is expanded by
fluid pressure to the point of specimen rupture.
The test method is generally applicable to a wide variety of knitted goods and non-woven fabrics. It is not
recommended for general use on uncoated woven fabrics.
Bursting Strength = Total Pressure - Tare Pressure of the Specimen
Important Note:
Coarser yarn size gives greater bursting strength
Higher stitch density gives higher bursting strength
Different surface finishes on the fabric will affecting the bursting properties
Seam Slippage Determination of the yarn slippage resistance at sewn seams in woven fabric under loading. - (ISO
13936-1 & ISO 13936-2)
Significance
It determines the tendency of the yarns to slip out of the seam and whether they would be readily
repairable by re-seaming.
Seam slippage is the separation of seam due to slippage of filling yarns over warp yarns or warp yarns
over filling yarns. In such slippage, the stitching thread is remain unbroken.
Fabric Sample
A test specimen of 400mm x 100mm with long direction parallel to the filling yarns is cut from sample
fabric, if the warp yarns slide over the filling yarns is tested or vice versa.
The load-elongation curve of the fabric is superimposed over a load-elongation curve of the same fabric
with seam sewn being tested. Resistance to yarn slippage is reported as the load at which slippage of a
specific size is seen.
This test is not intended for upholstery fabrics.
The fabric alignment of adjacent patch of a seam may not be the same in a garment seam. Direct
measurement of seam slippage on garment seam provide a more accurate result.
Remedies for preventing seam slippage: 1. Superimposed seam type
2. Lapped seam type with tape / interlining reinforcement
3. Anti-slip finish (resin treatment)
Method for Strength testing of Textile Products.
Tensile Strength :
Speed of upper clamp
Test Standards: ISO 5082
BS EN ISO 13934-1 _____ mm/min +/- 10 %
BS EN ISO 13934-2 50 mm/min +/- 10 %
GB / T 3923.2 50 mm/min +/- 10 %
AS 2001.2.3.2 50 mm/min +/- 10 %
ASTM D5034 300 +/- 10 mm/min
Equipment
No.: Universal Tensile Tester: 004
Gauge Length: (m
m)
Test Results:
Requirement: lbs cN N gf kgf Warp: min. ________ Weft: min. ________
Sample
Direction Specimen Break Force Break
Extension Break Force
Break
Extension
Warp
1
2
3
4
5
Average
Elongation at Break (%)
Weft
1
2
3
4
5
Average
Elongation at Break (%)
Remark :
Jaw Break – any break which occurs within 5 mm of clamping line of jaws. If any of the jaw break results falls below the lowest
“normal” break result, it shall be excluded and further tests carried out to obtain the number of “normal breaks” for each set of testing,
i.e. 5 tests.
Record the result for
values:
< 100 N to the nearest 1 N
} For BS EN ISO and AS Standards only ≥ 100 N to < 1000 N to the nearest 10 N
≥ 1000 N to the nearest 100N
Unit
Conversion: 1 kgf = 2.20462 lbs 1 kgf = 9.80665 N 1 N = 10 daN
Tearing Force Using Pendulum Method
Test Standard: □ ISO 9290 □BS EN ISO 13937-1
□ASTM D 1424 □AS 2001.2.8
□ GB/T 3917.1
Equipment No.: Digital Elmendorf Tearing Tester: 008
Notch size of specimen: 15 mm W x 12 mm H – BS EN ISO, GB/T, AS Standard
12 mm W x 12 mm H – ASTM Standard
Jaw spacing gauge: 3 +/- 0.5 mm – BS EN ISO, GB / T, AS Standard
2.5 +/- 0.25 mm – ASTM Standard
Permissible range: 15 % and 85 % of the full scale range – BS EN ISO, GB/T, AS Standard
20 % and 80 % of the full scale range – ASTM Standard
Test Results:
Requirement: lbs cN N gf kgf Warp: min. ________ Weft: min. ________
Remark: CT
= Specimen exhibits crosswise torn in the opposite direction
The test result should be rejected if (a) there is slippage of threads out of the
fabric; (b) slippage in the jaw; or (c) the tear is made outside the 15 mm or 12
mm wide notched area.
Unit
Conversion: 1 kgf = 2.20462 lbs 1 kgf = 9.80665 N 1 N = 100 cN
Sample Direction
Pendulu
m
Loading
Used
Tearing Strength Average
1 2 3 4 5 (
)
Tear Across
Warp
Tear Across
Weft
Tear Across
Warp
Tear Across
Weft
Tear Across
Warp
Tear Across
Weft
Tear Across
Warp
Tear Across
Weft
Tearing Strength of Fabrics by the Tongue (Single Rip):
Test Standards: □ BS EN ISO 13937-2
□ ASTM 2261
Equipment No: □ Universal Tensile Tester: 004
Requirement: lbs cN N gf kgf
Test Results: Warp: min. _________ Weft: min. _________
Sample
Direction
Tear
Across
Warp
Tear
Across
Weft
Tear
Across
Warp
Tear
Across
Weft
Tear Across
Warp
Tear Across
Weft
Specimen
1
2
3
4
5
Average
Remark: # = Specimen exhibits irregular torn
Unit
Conversion: 1 kgf = 2.20462 lbs 1 kgf = 9.80665 N 1 N = 100 cN
Bursting Properties of Fabric using Hydraulic Method
Test Method: □ BS EN ISO 13938-1 □ BS EN ISO 13938-2 □ ASTM D3786
□ AS 2001.2.4 □ CAN/CGSB-4.2 No.11.1
Equipment No.: Auto Burst Tester :005
Tested Area: □ 31.0 mm □ 31.5 mm □ ………
Test Results:
Color Unit
Requirement kpa psi bar atm Kg/cm²
Test location kpa psi bar atm Kg/cm² Requirement
Side Seam
Shoulder
Armhole
Sleeve
Inseam
Crotch
Unit Conversion: 1 kg/cm² = 14.22 Psi
1 psi = 6.895 kpa
Garment Seam Strength / Slippage Test Standards: BS EN ISO 13936-2 BS EN ISO 13935-2
Equipment No.: Universal Tensile Tester: 004
Gauge Length: 100 mm
Dimension of Jaws: Front Jaw = 25 mm L x 25 mm W, Rear Jaw = 25 mm L x 75 mm W
Speed of Upper Clamp: 50 ± 5 mm/min
Test Result(s):
Sample:
____________
Requirement: Applied Load @ …………….. N For Fabric Weight ……………. ….g/m²