Gillian Faye L. Lechoco 10-7-15FD 214- Textile, Fiber, and
Fabric Production
Textile Production: Abaca + Mercerized Cotton
From time to time, people have been innovating new textiles to
utilize presented resources, and--- more importantly--- in order to
cater to the modern needs of men. There have been new blends of
fibers, even new chemically manufactured ones with new technology
to produce them. Thinking about the production of a certain textile
or fabric is easy--- until you do it yourself. When I got into this
project, immediately what came into my mind is mixing natural and
processed fibers together into one textile. Because of their
availability in the local stores, I was caught up with the idea of
abaca as the main component, and the mercerized cotton as the
supporting fiber of the content. Before anything else, we must
define and describe the following fibers used in this project. The
main component of this textile is the abaca fiber. According to
Albay Agro-Industrial Development Corporation (ALINDECO)
(http://www.alindeco.com/abaca.htm), abaca (Musa Textilis Nee) ---
commercially known as Manila hemp (not to be confused with the true
hemp--- product of a non-drug cannabis) --- is native to Asia and
usually inhabits humid areas, including our country. Moreover,
according to the editor-in-chief Mazharul Islam Kiron of
TextileLearner
(http://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2013/04/abaca-fiber-manila-hemp-usesapplication.html),
abaca is a bust fiber, and is produced from the stalk of the plant.
All according to a web article written by a person named Gemma
Delmo
(http://www.fareasternagriculture.com/crops/agriculture/abaca-the-philippine-fiber)
and a web article of ABACA Philippines
(http://www.abacaphilippines.com/abaca.php?go=about), the plants
existence in the Philippines even dates back to even before the
Spanish occupation in 1521, and has believed to have evolved in the
Bicol region in the Philippines. It was three centuries later that
the abaca was given commercial recognition when an American
lieutenant of the US Navy brought a sample of abaca fiber to the US
in 1820. Nowadays, even if the industry had several mishaps,
especially in the multinational market platform, abaca is still one
of the most viable agro-commodities in the Philippines. When it
comes to physical properties, it is said to be three times stronger
than coniferous fiber such as sisal. Plus, abaca is guaranteed to
be the strongest among natural fibers. As said in TextileLearner,
abaca fiber possess higher tensile strength and lower elongation in
both wet and dry states when compared to synthetic fibers such as
rayon and nylon. To quote from a research of students K.
Vijayalakshmi and Ch.Y.K. Neeraja
(http://www.techscripts.org/sep_2014/sep201404.pdf), abaca is a
superior fiber with its high tensile and folding strength--- as a
supporting idea from the previous stated one. To further support
the idea, Dr. Leslie Joy Lanticse-Diaz, chairperson of the
Department of Mining, Metallurgical and Materials Engineering of
the University of the Philippines- Diliman, shared her acquired
information with the natural fiber stakeholders at the recently
concluded National Conference on Natural Fibers organized by the
Philippine Textile Research Institute and the Philippine Council
for Industry and Energy Research and Development, both agencies of
the Department of Science and Technology, in celebration of 2009 as
UN-declared International Year of Natural Fibers.Held at Dusit
Thani Hotel in Makati City, she presented her study hoping to
include abaca in the automotive industry. The study--- Indigenous
Natural Fibers for Engineering Applications in the Automotive and
Construction Industries--- was conducted by a team of researchers
led by Dr. Leslie Diaz herself.
(http://www.fibre2fashion.com/news/textile-news/philippines/newsdetails.aspx?news_id=80623)
To add up, the research results stated that abaca fiber displayed a
tensile strength of up to 970 MPa (megapascal), which means,
surprisingly, that 140,686 pounds per square inch of force is
needed to break this fiber---which will be expounded on the
procedures during on my construction of fabric. Plus, a web article
of TV5
(http://www.interaksyon.com/article/77931/bicols-abaca-integration-project-to-be-replicated-in-typhoon-ravaged-visayas)
said, to quote it, The very durable nature of abaca is not the only
quality of this natural fiber that makes it in demand in the
market.Its environment-friendly, biodegradable nature makes
manufacturers, especially those in Europe, to use abaca over
synthetic fibers. Its tensile strength is even witnessed by
Americans long back in 1820. An American naval officer brought a
sample of abaca fiber for testing in the United State, and it
proved to have superior tensile strength over any other known
cordage, especially under sea water. This led the U.S. Department
of Agriculture to send its top agricultural and fiber experts to
provide impetus in the production of abaca in the Philippines. It
only means that abaca is far more resistant to salt water
decomposition than most vegetable fibers. As also stated by Dr.
Diaz, it was also reported that abaca fiber can reach a maximum of
3 meters that gives it the advantage of length. Abaca fiber also
has great buoyancy. Because I was eager to know more about it, I
decided to test it and make a video out of it (the site is
http://www.dailymotion.com/video/x38kuvi). I first prepared a clear
plastic container---in this case, a microwavable container---
filled with tap water (shown below).
Then, I cut a small piece of abaca fiber from the last abaca
fiber from my textile (still attached to the needle used).
And from there, I began a personal investigation. The abaca
fiber stays on the surface because of buoyancy, and at the same
time creates a surface tension on the water. As you can see on the
picture, the fiber stays floating, and some parts of the fiber
forms a meniscus (curve in the water) with the water (arrows
indicate meniscus). This just shows that abaca fiber tends to float
on water. High school science paid off so well here!
Going back to the research of the Vijayalakshmi and Neeraja,
they presented a table of abacas physical properties in comparison
with the other natural fibers.
Abaca stands out when it comes to density, fiber length, tensile
strength. Because it is a cellulosic fiber, abaca is said to have
high porosity. It means that the fiber is made up of little pores.
Additionally, the best grades of abaca are fine, having bright
luster, light beige in color, and very strong. The manufacturing of
the abaca fiber is a very meticulous process
(https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3QzomhgJ0eE). The plant is being
felled or logged first. Then, the manufacturers separate the leaf
stalks into long, wide strips with a tuxying knife. After which,
the strips are being brought to where the stripping of the abaca
begins. First, they clip an end of a layer to a device called
hagutan, making sure that it is secure. Next, they pull the excess
end of the layer and strip it off until the fibers remain. The
second component of the textile is mercerized cotton. In accordance
to Tom Beaudets web article
(http://fiberarts.org/design/articles/mercerized.html), it is just
cotton yarn or fabric which has been put through a series of
processes, primarily to increase luster. Mercerized cotton is
cotton treated with sodium hydroxide to bring out certain
properties, and was first discovered by John Mercer in 1851. He was
granted a British patent for his works pertaining to cotton, linen,
and other vegetable fibrous materials when subjected to caustic
acid, sulfuric acid, and other chemicals. When Mercer introduced
these processes, the British cotton trade was not interested and
not giving importance for 40 years. However, in 1890, a person
named Horace Lowe added an additional step to the process, and the
British cotton industry decided to take notice in this type of
cotton, which is now available in our local craft stores today.
(http://www.wisegeek.com/what-is-mercerized-cotton.htm) As what
Beaudet had stated, We must keep in mind when making comparisons
between the water absorbency quality of mercerized and unmercerized
cotton that the primary reason for mercerizing cotton is to gain
luster. Mercerization starts with gathering the cotton
andspinningit normally, because when cotton is mercerized in a
relaxed state, it gains no luster. Because cottons with long fibers
take better to mercerization, the kinds of cotton named Pima,
Egyptian, and Sea Island cotton responds best to the process. In
this case cotton held under specified tension for ten minutes with
an application of between 21%-23% caustic soda (NaOH), at room
temperature results in the desired luster and increased tensile
strength. Without the tension there is no increased luster. After
treatment, the mercerized cotton is placed into an acidic bath to
neutralize it. Once this process is complete, the cotton can be
dyed and knitted, woven, or packed as stand-alone spools of thread.
Mercerized cotton is also referred to as pearl cotton or pearle
cotton, and it is because of the lustrous finish of the product.
Moreover, to quote the wiseGeek web article, In addition to having
rich color saturation and a shimmering appearance, this fabric is
also much stronger than conventional cotton thread. The process
shrinks the cotton fibers, tightening and smoothing the grain of
the thread. Because the cotton is preshrunk, mercerized cotton also
tends not to shrink as much as regular cotton, so consumers can be
more confident about the fit of mercerized garments. So far on the
lustrous feature, because the mercerization of cotton changes a
little of the fiber structure, the process also enhances the
strength, affinity to dye, and resistance to mildew and shrinkage.
The downside of it is that it is less absorbent than the
unmercerized cotton, so it is not good for cleaning cloths
(http://www.craftsy.com/blog/2015/04/knitting-with-cotton-yarn/).
Usually mercerized cotton spools can be bought in spools in skein,
and is usually used in knitting and crochet projects. Going back,
the main reasons why I chose to utilize abaca and mercerized cotton
is that: (1) its availability at the nearest local stores, (2) the
interesting features that both fibers possess, (3) and the
sustainability when both are put together. I got my mercerized
cotton in multicolor (Anchor is the brand name, and weighs 40
grams) and my abaca in a form of a rope (I bought 2 rolls of rope
from a local handicraft store). I have thought of using the process
of weaving for the two fibers because crocheting (which was my
first idea) a coarse fiber like abaca would not give the desired
results. In the later part, the process of weaving will be
shown.
Usually, the ropes are fastened tightly in a twisted fashion, so
what I did is that I unraveled a roll of rope to reveal the fibers
that make up the rope.
The picture shown above is how an unraveled abaca rope would
look like. The rope reveals that there are some fibers that are
red-orange in color--- it is because the fiber came from the outer
layer of the stalk. The light beige and/or white fibers came from
the inner layer of the leaf stalk, and is said to be stronger than
the ones from the outer layer.
The disadvantage of using the rope is that the fibers present
are shorter than what it should be like. The fibers from the rope
appear to be crimped because of the twist done. Usually the abaca
fibers in the rope range from approximately 15-25 inches long, so
the most convenient way is to join abaca fibers end-to-end by tying
in order to produce a long fiber.
I used the cardboard loom in the weaving process of the textile.
I measured a 6x6 square on the cardboard for the textile, and
measured half a centimeter on the top and bottom edges of the
cardboard for the slits where the mercerized cotton will go
through. Next, pass the yarn through the first slit, and make sure
to leave at least 3 excess for you to secure it with tape--- the
yarn should be secured tightly, but not to the point when the
cardboard bends inwards. The tendency of not leaving excess is that
when you pass the abaca fiber through the mercerized cotton,
adjusting the abaca can loosen the yarn. Pass the yarn through the
slits until you end up with something shown above. The mercerized
cotton serves as the warps of the textile. The trickiest part comes
next. Tie the end of the long fiber you just made to the first warp
nearest to the slit, and cut the excess fiber. Then, secure a
needle with an eye big enough to let the abaca fiber go through it,
and attach the other end of the fiber with it.
Start by passing the abaca fiber over and under the warp yarns
with the aid of the needle. When you reach the end of the first
row, begin making the second row, but this time make sure that it
should be the opposite from the first. Also, make sure that second
row is snugly place under the first one. Remember to be careful not
to tug the rows too tight because the 2 warp yarns at each end will
draw near to the center of the textile.
In tugging the weft closer to the previous row/s, you can either
use a comb or anything that can bring them closer to the ones made
as fast and easy as possible. In my case, whenever my abaca thread
goes short, I cut the part where the needle and the fiber end
meets, attach another set of fibers, then attach the end of the
fiber to the needle--- and I begin to weave again.
Continue weaving until you reach the other end of the square.
Secure the end again to the last warp yarn of the textile (picture
below).
To remove the textile out from the cardboard, remove the taped
ends and cut the slits shorter, then begin separating both. After
getting the textile, adjust the wefts towards the ends of the
textile, carefully tugging rows of abaca fibers. The excess ends of
the warp can be secured through weaving it carefully into wefts or
tying it in place, and then cutting the remaining excess after.
It couldve been nicer if the used abaca fibers werent short,
because it would end up like mine--- there are tiny knotted balls
from the joining of fibers together. What I did is that I carefully
cut the excess with a pair of scissors. Now, Ive come to test the
textile, of what I think, with the best feature it possesses. A
while ago, it was stated that abaca fiber has great buoyancy. So,
Ive made another video documentation on the textile (the link is
http://www.dailymotion.com/video/x38m9wd). As you can see, even if
I was pushing the textile downward, it tends to float upwards, but
not fully to the surface. If we talk about taking this fabric blend
to the fashion industry, and when we say that the abaca is the main
component of the textile, it is best used in barong tagalog, barot
saya, and other things related to native garments. Moreover, it can
also be used in gowns for wedding and for other events that
pertains to evening time or to photography uses, since the blend
gives off a bright luster from the abaca. This blend can be bent in
any matter to create dimensions, so garments that portray luxury
and structuralism is best for this. If mercerized cotton is the
main component over abaca, then it is best used for sweaters and
cardigans, and for beach and outdoor wear such beach cover-ups. Ive
also imagined as a collarless coat, with the different colors of
the mercerized cotton. In conclusion to the project, it is not easy
to be acquainted with the processes of producing a textile,
especially when you are making it by hand. Research is always best
done first before blending any type of fabric. To know about each
properties and characteristics of two or more fibers and how these
could contribute to the overall aesthetics of the fabric is
essential to textile production. To give recommendations to the
project, it is best to use the 3-meter long abaca fibers to avoid
little balls from the knots made from joining the fibers. In other
words, it is best to use the fibers not from the rope for a more
refined finish.
Web source/s: http://www.alindeco.com/abaca.htm
http://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2013/04/abaca-fiber-manila-hemp-usesapplication.html
http://www.fareasternagriculture.com/crops/agriculture/abaca-the-philippine-fiber
http://www.abacaphilippines.com/abaca.php?go=about
http://www.techscripts.org/sep_2014/sep201404.pdf
http://www.fibre2fashion.com/news/textile-news/philippines/newsdetails.aspx?news_id=80623
http://www.interaksyon.com/article/77931/bicols-abaca-integration-project-to-be-replicated-in-typhoon-ravaged-visayas
http://fiberarts.org/design/articles/mercerized.html
http://www.wisegeek.com/what-is-mercerized-cotton.htm
http://www.craftsy.com/blog/2015/04/knitting-with-cotton-yarn/
Video/s: http://www.dailymotion.com/video/x38kuvi
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3QzomhgJ0eE
http://www.dailymotion.com/video/x38m9wd
University of San Carlos-Talamban CampusSchool of Architecture,
Fine Arts, and Design
Abaca-Mercerized Cotton Blend Fabric
Submitted by:Gillian Faye L. Lechoco BFA-FD 1
Submitted to:Mr. Francis Oliverio FD 214 teacher
Fabric: abaca-mercerized cotton blendComposition: 87.5% abaca,
12.5% mercerized cottonManner of production: weavingNumber of
warp/s: approximately 200 warpsNumber of weft/s: 25 wefts
Production time: 2 days
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