Textile Microplastics. Adressing the Challenges for Politics, Industry and Research. L42 Business Center & Workspaces, Rue de la Loi 42, B-1040 Bruxelles 10 th December 2019 | Prof. Dr. habil. Rabe | Prof. Bendt
Textile Microplastics.Adressing the Challenges for Politics, Industry and Research.
L42 Business Center & Workspaces, Rue de la Loi 42, B-1040 Bruxelles10th December 2019 | Prof. Dr. habil. Rabe | Prof. Bendt
Agenda
• Definition microfibre – microplastic• Data collection• Analysis of filter residues• Test results• Quick test development• Material and product development• Lectures and publications• Outlook and wishlist
DefinitionsMicroplastic = Particles smaller than 5 mm, but with different shapes
Problem: Frequent confusion of the terms microfiber and microplastic.
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Definitions
Problem: The frequent confusion of the terms microfibre and microplasticcould damage the image of high performance textiles.
Microfibre = Special very fine fibre types
• fibre fineness < 1 denier• diameter 3 - 10 µm• synthetic and natural
polymers • spun as endless filaments• special properties for
performance wear
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Definition of the term microplasticECHA vs. ISO/TR 2196
ANNEX XV RESTRICTION REPORT (March 2019)
• material consisting of solid polymer-containing particles, to which additives orother substances may have been added
• natural polymers that have not beenchemically modified (other than byhydrolysis) are excluded, as arepolymers that are (bio)degradable [1]
• ≥ 1% w/w of particles have alldimensions 1 nm ≤ x≤ 5 mm
• for fibres, a length of 3 nm ≤ x≤ 15 mmand length to diameter ratio of >3
Plastics in the Environment (currently being prepared)
• What is plastic? Is to be defined in ISO TC 61
• New definition microplastic particle should be aligned with SI units (1-1000 µm ? for the longest dimension )
• Historical definition < 5 mm "big" microplastic or macroplastic
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Data collection
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Status Quo: > 750 household washing cycles
Leading to: > 750 filtration cycles (35‘ to 90‘ each)ca. 45.000 litres filtered through 5µm
Sums up to: > 2250 h for data collection
additionally: ca. 800 to 1.000 quick tests
Microplastic emission of materials
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80.95 80.95 96.21 96.21 111.47 117.52 123.07 129.12 129.12 159.69 282.45 277.010
500
1000
1500
2000
2500Fi
ber l
oss
[mg/
kg]
Density [kg/m3]
100 % PES fleece
100 % PES without
mechanical finishing
1.5 kg Drying 1.5 kg Washing 3.5 kg Drying 3.5 kg Washing
Emissions after 10 washing cycles= 50 - 600 mg/kg
vs. 50 mg/kg per washingcycle in literature.
(100 % PES-Filament, non-brushed vs. 100 % PES fleece, brushed & sheared , n=3)
Analysis of filter residues• Gravimetric analysis of filter residues (1,5 mm – 5 µm Pore Size)• REM, µFTIR (HN) and TED-GCMS (BAM) for chemical characterisation• The smaller the pore size, the more fibre material is retained by the filter cake
(preparations, lubricants, dye agglomerates…)
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(5 µm Pore Size)
µFTIR analysis of a 5 µm filter (Household washing experiments)
Almost all particles consist of polyester (red)
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Analysis of filter residues(5 µm Pore Size)
Polymer quantification with TED-GC/MS
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99%
0%1%0%0%1%
Material 1.8 / 50µm
PET
PE
PP
PS
NR
PA 99%
0%0%0%0%1%
Material 1.8 / 5µm
PET
Acrylate
PP
PS
NR
PA
Intermediate result washing trials• Emissions after 10 washing cycles: 50-600 mg/kg• Low-priced filament goods show the same output as a fleece article with a
low emission rate• µFTIR analysis of the filters after the washing process shows an almost
complete occupation of the filter surface with PES fibers• TED-GC/MS leading to the same result• The lowest discharge of fibres into the aqueous environment occurs with a
full washing machine load and subsequent drying in the dryer
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Quick test vs. household washing
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80.95 96.15 96.21 111.47 117.52 123.07 282.45 284.60
500
1000
1500
2000
2500
3000
3500
Fibe
r los
s [m
g/kg
]
Density [kg/m3]
Quick test Household washings (n = 3 / 10 cycles each)
(based on ISO 105-C06)
International development of a standardized quick test
close cooperation with EURATEX (European Apparel and Textile Confederation) and international research organizations
• 6th CIA Technical Meeting - Brussels 22nd Oct.2019• Round Robin Test Filter Materials (10 labs worldwide)• Visit of University of Leeds @ Hochschule Niederrhein 06th Nov. 2019• Cooperation with James Heal – Modification of test containers• Further trials to evaluate test parameters• Next technical Meeting during ISPO 26th – 29th Jan. 2020• CEN process initiated
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Material and product developmentDesign and process engineering solutions:• Yarn counts• Yarn construction• Alternative materials• Surface construction - binding technology• Surface parameters: weight, volume and strength• Mechanical finishing• Garment manufacturing
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Material development
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Mayer & Cie. MPU 1,6; gg24
Alternative materials1. Optimization of PET fabrics:• Yarn tests in cooperation with TWD & Trevira / D
• Variation of fiber and yarn types• Optimization of knitting processes
2. Cellulosic materials• Yarn tests in cooperation with Lenzing / A
• Fibrillation and improvement of handle• Variation fiber and yarn types• Optimization of knitting and finishing processes
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Variation of machine parameters
vPET 1o.15.25 1o.10.20 1o.20.30 1o.20.20 1o.10.15 1o.10.30 0
200
400
600
800
1000
1200
1400
Reference material limit value
Fibe
r los
s [m
g/kg
]
material
n = 2
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Impact on performance properties
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Mechanical finishingTest series in cooperation with company Xetma• Raising process
• Variation raising fillets• Variation process parameters
• No. of raising passages• raising energy• Rotation direction of raising rollers• Fabric tension etc.
• Shearing process• Shearing heights
• Mechanical cleaning
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Chemical finishing
Test series in cooperation with different partners (industry scale):• Dyeing processes
• Reduction / Variation • Variation process parameters• Analysis of particle type
• Additive chemicals• Softening agents• Lubrication agents
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Emissions during processing
0 1000 2000 3000 4000 5000 6000 7000 8000
Lyocell/PES weiß
Lyocell/PES schw.
Vorgew.
Lyocell/PES schw.Rohware
Shedding [mg/kg Fabric]
Emissions per Process Steps
vorgewaschen PES Färbung Auswaschen Lyocell Färbung Auswaschen STPre-washed Rinsed Lyocell Dyeing Quick Test
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PES Dyeing Rinsed
LyocellPES blackRaw Material
LyocellPES blackPre-washed
LyocellPES whitePre-washed
Garment production• Different cutting technologies:
• Cutting: mechanical • Ultrasonic welding: mechanical & thermal• Laser cutting: thermal
• Standardization of making tests• Development of a uniform monitor for assembly testing • Seam reduction• Reduction of zippers, buttons, etc.
• Holistic overview: Contamination • All CMT (Cutting,Making,Trimming) processes
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Lectures and publications 2019TV reports
• Hier und Heute: „Zeitreise Textilforschung“• NDR: „Mehr wissen – besser leben“
Presentations at meetings/conferences and other events (November 2019)• ISPO, Munich, February 2019• Future Workshop, Buchholz i.d. Nordheide, February 2019• Event „Smarte Masche", Obertshausen, March 2019• Annual General Meeting VÖTC, Dornbirn, March 2019• Presentation of the project during a production tour by Barmag, Remscheid, May 2019• PolitFashionNight, Berlin, June 2019• Plasticity, Amsterdam, June 2019• ITMA, Barcelona, June 2019• OutDoor by ISPO, Munich, July 2019• Man-made Fibre Conference Dornbirn, Austria, September 2019• Stakeholder event, Berlin, November 2019• ITC Aachen - Dresden- Denkendorf, Dresden, November 2019 • Outlook: Open Day, Niederrhein University of Applied Sciences, January 2020
Confirmation: „Woche der Umwelt“, June 9.-10. 2020, Berlin
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Outlook• Continuation of washing tests (household laundry + quick test)• Round robin test to validate the filter material for quick test• Continuation of the development of low-particle constructions (sportswear,
outdoor)• Analysis and development of alternative materials• First investigations on the degradation behaviour of different fibres in
sewage sludge in conjunction with TU Dresden
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