TEHUANTEPEC TO OAXACA (1896) · (1) SCENES IN TEHUANTEPEC.1 INTERESTING TRAITS OF PEOPLE IN THE MEXICAN ISTHMUS. Odd Homes—Peculiarities of the Dress and Morals of Women—A Cut-Down

TEHUANTEPECTOOAXACA(1896)

TextbyJohnRandolphSpearsCorrespondentoftheNewYorkSun

Originalarticlesarchivedonnyshistoricnewspapers.org

Table of Contents

(1)SCENESINTEHUANTEPEC. ................................................................................................ 1

(2)OFMULESANDMULETEERS. ........................................................................................... 14

(3)OVERATRAILTOOAXACA. .............................................................................................. 18

(1)SCENESINTEHUANTEPEC.1

INTERESTINGTRAITSOFPEOPLEINTHEMEXICANISTHMUS.

OddHomes—PeculiaritiesoftheDressandMoralsofWomen—ACut-DownFreightCarasaFirst-ClasspassengerCoach—MarketWhereRiceandPeasareSoldbytheSpoonful,andBananasbytheQuarterandHalf—TheGuapil—WorkofaTrampPhotographer—Children'sGames—Dances—HappyinanOut-of-DoorsHomewithScantFurniture.ToonewholooksatthemapofNorthAmerica,thesouthshoreofthelowerpartofMexicoseemstobearegionaboutasfaroutofthewayoftheordinarytraveler,andfromthegreatercentersoftrade,ascouldwellbefoundintheinhabitedpartsofthecontinent.And,soitisfoundtobe,ifonegotherefromNew York, the most convenient and trustworthy route being byway of theIsthmusofPanama.But,because thecontinent isnarrowthere,andbecausewhereitisnarrowestthebackboneofthecontinentisbroken,andalowpassfromseatoseaisfound,thisout-of-the-wayregionhasbeenoftenvisitedbyexplorersandengineerswhoweresearchingforarouteforarailroadoracanal

1PublishedbytheNewYorkSun,Sunday, January19,1896,page8;EditedbyDuncanS.Campbell,February2019

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thatwouldsavethelongvoyagearoundtheHornwhenmerchandisewastobetransported between the East and theWest. So, it has happened that in allcollections of what may be called inter-oceanic literature, the number ofprintedpagesdevotedtothe"Tehuantepecroute"seemssurprisinglylargetoonewhoseesitforthefirsttime,andtheregion,thoughgeographicallyoutoftheway,is,sotospeak,rathernearathandinthemindsofgeographers.Thereader is very likely to remember that surveys have beenmade across theisthmus for several railroad builders, including the famous Capt. Eads, whoproposed to construct there a railroad that would carry a fully loadedsteamshipoflargesizeasanordinarytrainload,whileatleasttwosurveyshavebeenmadewithaviewofdiggingacanalthatwouldfloattheshipsfromseatosea.Becauseofallthis,thetravelerintheSpanishMain,thoughhemayhavebeensomewhatsurfeitedwithtalkofcanalsatPanamaandinNicaragua,willusuallylandatSalinaCruz,thelittleportwheresomeoftheseambitiousroutesweretoterminate,witharenewedinterest.Andwhenhegetsashoreandgoesupintotheinterior,hefindssomuchthatisstrangethatheisnotunlikelytolookbackonsouthernMexicoasbeing,onthewhole,themost interestingregionfoundinthewholejourney.TheportofSalinaCruzisfairlywellsheltered.Arangeofred-grayhills,scantilycoveredwithbrush,comesdownfromtheinteriortoterminateinthesea,andthereisashallowbayinbehindthebarrenrocksofwhatIsupposetobetheendofthisrangeofhills.Theshipcomestoanchoratsomelittledistancefromtheshore,andthewhale-boatlaunch,commontotheportsofCentralAmerica,is found in waiting to carry freight and passengers to and fro. In pleasantweather,thelandingisamatterofnospecial interest,butIobservedthattohelpalaunchthroughthebreakers,astronglinewascarriedfromabuoy,welloutbeyondthefoam,toananchoronshore.Thecrewgotthislinelengthwiseoverthelaunch,andsowereabletocontrolitsmotionseasily—topreventitturningend-over-endinthehugecombersthatrollinthereinbadweather,andtokeepitend-ontotheseasinallweathers.Thepassengerswhoarenotexpertinjumpingfromthelaunchtothesandarecarriedbytheboatmen.Anumberofnativewomenwereamong thepassengers landingwhen Idid, andwhentheseweretakeninarmsbytheboatmen,theyactedmuchasYankeegirlsdounderlikecircumstances—theyseemedtoenjoyitverymuch.

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Onceashore,itwasseenthatSalinaCruzwasacollectionofoverthirtyhouses,all told, standing on a bar of broken-down granite rock, with a salt lagoonbehindthebar.Oneofthepassengers,onlanding,askedanidlespectatorforadrinkofwater,andwasdirectedtoawellfourfeetdeepinthesand.Thewellwaterwasgood,althoughthesalttideroseandfellbutastone'scastawayonbothsidesofthebar,andthetidewassaidtoraiseandlowerthewellwater,asit did that in the bay and the lagoon. It is likely that thewellwaterwas anaccumulationfromrains,andrestedlayerfashiononthesaltwaterbelow.Butthatwasonlythebeginningoftheinterestingfeaturesofthelittlehamlet.The houses, except for three adobe and tile structures occupied by officials,wereremarkable.Aboutallthatcouldbeseenatfirstglancewasanenclosure,perhaps50x70feetlargeontheaverage,thewallsofwhichweremadeofpostsstandingtenfeethighandtwelvefeetapart,withlongfish-polecaneswoveninbasketfashiontofillthespacesbetween.Abovethisroseaveryhigh-peakedthatchedroof.But,ongoingtooneoftheseenclosuresthatwaspointedoutasahotel,itwasfoundthattheroofrestedonadobewallsoccupyinglessthanhalfthespacewithinthebasket-workenclosure,thebasketworkbeingamereyardfence.Andsoitwasfortherestofthehouses.Thefloorsofthesehouseswereusuallymadeofalayerofadobeclaypackedsmooth,buttileswerefoundinsome.Thehotelyardservedalsoasadiningroom.Onecornerofthefencewasroofedoverwithrudemattingtofendoffthesun,andthetablestoodthere.WhileIwastalkingtothecustomsofficialaboutmyluggage,afatoldwoman(nearlyalltheoldwomenwerefat)approachedanotherYankeepassenger,anengineer fromTennessee,named J.G.Hall,andoffered tosupplyhimwithayounggirl"asaservant"fora$20goldpiece.Thisisworthtelling,forthereasonthattransactionsofthatkindaresocommoninthisisthmusastoattractverylittle comment, except among strangers. Asmany of the readers of THESUNknow,thelatestexplorationsintheTehuantepecrouteresultedinthebuildingofarailroadoverit.WhenIwasthere(1893)aspaceofthirty-sevenandahalfmilesintheroutelackedrails,andaspaceofafewmileswasungraded.TherewasnostationatSalinaCruz.Thetrackwasofstandardgauge,andtheYankeeengineerjustmentionedsaidthatthepermanentwaywasinfaircondition.Inthe afternoon, the one train employed on the road came down fromTehuantepec,andthatwasthemostremarkabletrainIeversaw.TheenginewasaverygoodBaldwin,withacowcatcherateachend.Thecarforsecond-class passengers came next. It was a common flat car, such as is used forcarrying gravel when a road is building. The passengers were numerous

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enoughtocoverit,andtheyusedtheirownluggageandthatofthefirst-classpassengers, in lieu of seats. The first-class passenger car was made from acommonboxfreightcar.Rudenarrowbencheswererunaroundthewallsofthecarforseats,andtheupperhalfofthewallboardsoneachsidehadbeensawedout,sothatventilationandachancetoseethecountryweresecured.Ipaid$2.50forafirst-classticket,or,say,tencentsamile,and30centsextraforbaggage.Ofmyfellowpassengerswhowerenatives, Icanrememberbutone.Ishallbealongtimeforgettinghim.Hewasayoungman,andhemanifestlyhadwealth, some education, a good voice, and a bottle ofwhiskey. HewassingingwhenIclimbedintothecar,buthestoppedthemomentIsatdownandcametoaseatbesideme.Thenhesaid:"YouareaYankee;IamaMexican.Therewaswarbetweenusmanyyearsago.Letusdrinktogetherandbefriendsnow."ThebottleheldKentuckywhiskey,anditseemedtomeingoodtaste,aswellasgoodpolicy,tojoinhim.So,ItookasiptotheprosperityofMexico.InreturnhetookthreegurglestotheYankeenation.Next,hewantedmetodrinkagaintotheladiespresent,andthatwasimpossibletorefuse.Thenhegotbacktothewar again, and told of the outrages Yankee soldiers had committed, as hebelieved,withadetailofuntruefactsthatbecameveryunpleasant.IbegantoframeareplythatshouldlaystressonthefactthatwaroccurredbeforeIwasborn,when he stopped short and said: "I ought to kill all the Yankees, but Icannot.Ilovethemall.Drinkwithme."So,wedrankagain,andhefinishedthebottle.Ihopedthatwouldendourlittlespree,butitdidn't.Hehadanotherbottleandbroughtitout.Thenhebeganonthewaragain,andIbegantospeculateastowhetherhislovefortheYankees,orhissenseofdutycommandinghimtokillthemall,wouldprevail.Andthisspeculationwasbecomingexceedinglypainful,whenthefellow'seyescaughtthatofaveryprettybarefootednativegirlinacornerofthecar,andthegirl'seye twinkled.Thereat,hegotonhis feet,andafter apologizingeffusively forleavingonewhomhelovedsodearlyashedidme,hewentovertothecornerandsatdownbythegirl.SofarasIrecalled,thiswastheonlytimethatIsawashoe-wearingSpanish-Americandrunkinpublic,andhewascertainlytheonlyonewhomadehimselfoffensivetome.AndIamnotnowcertainwhetherhewasworkinghimselfuptoapointwherehewouldbedangerousornot,butIthinknot.However,Isawabundant evidence that Mexicans regard citizens of the United States with

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preciselythefeelingsthatstirtheheartsofpatrioticAmericanswhentheyreadofBritishaggressionandinsolence.AnditisgreatlytothecreditoftheMexicanpeople that,while trying toworkoutnational improvementbyeverymeanspossible, including the encouragement of foreign investments, they are notdeveloping,eitherinbusinessorsociety,aclassoftoadies.Therailroadrunsbackthroughalow,wood-coveredcountryforthemostpart,thoughwepassedthrougharidgeatoneplace,andhillsareconstantlyinsighttothenorth.Thesoil lookedlikethebestsortforsugarcaneandcorn,andarailroadmanwhohadbeenalongtimeinthecountrysaiditwasso."Canyoutellwhy it lieswaste, then,when so convenient to a portwhere steamers callregularly?"saidI."Yes:thereisnolandtax.Alltheavailablelandisownedbywealthycitizens,who,havingnoexpenseinconnectionwithit,canaffordtowaitfortheriseinpriceslikelytocomewhentherailroadacrosstheisthmusiscompleted."Thetraveler'sfirstviewofTehuantepeccityisinteresting.Thetrainstopsatawatertankonthebankofashoalriver,ahundredyardsorsowideatlowwater.Lookingupthisstream,oneseesthatitseemstobreakthrougharangeoflowbutprettyruggedhills,ahalfmileorsoaway.Onthewestsideoftheriverthehillscametothewater'sedge,but,ontheeast, therewasa levelspacesomehundredsofyardswide,whilethevalleycouldbeseenwideningoutbeyondthehills.RightonthisneckoflevellandwasbuiltthecityofTehuantepec.Thehouseswerenotconfinedtothelevelland.Theyhadswashedlikeawave,sotospeak,up thehillsides, and clung there onbenches and terraceswhere theyoverlookedthewidevalleyaboveandbelow,andthemountainsfarbeyond.Itwasacollectionofwhitewashedadobewalls,withredtileroofsabove,butonthehillswereseenenoughthatchestomakethescenethoroughlypicturesque.Verylikely,thereaderwillwonderthatthethatches—thatistosay,thehousesof the poor—should have been found up on the hills, where the choicestbuildingsitesweretobehad,accordingtoYankeetaste,butsoitwas.Andthatis a peculiarity of the urban Spanish American. A traveler rarely sees thepicturesquebuildingsitesnearatownoccupied,savebythebarefootedpeons.Thepeopleofwealtharecommonlymerchantsinonewayoranother,andliveadjoiningtheirplacesofbusiness.Yankeefarmersbuildtheirhousesunderthehillsforshelterandtosavefuel.PossiblytheSpanishAmericanlivesnearthestore to save shoe leather. As a town, Tehuantepec was not unlike other

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Spanish-American towns. Therewas theusual plaza, and theusualbusinesshousesoftilesandadobesfacingit,andthechurcheswerehereandthere,andthestreetswereglaringdesertsinthesunlight,whiletheinteriorcourtswereinvariably cool and refreshing with the shade and moisture of tropicalvegetation.ThetrainstoppedinaTehuantepecstreet,sonarrowthatacarriagewouldnothavefoundroombetweenitandthehouses.Thehousesofthisstreetwereallalike—allwereapparentlydwellings—but somemen carried thebaggage tothecourtofoneofthehouses,and,wheninthere,IfoundthehousewasinasmallwaytheGrandCentraldepotofthetown.Thebaggagewasweighedtoseehowmuchtochargefortransportingit,andthenwewerefreetoseekthehotels,ofwhichthereweretwopatronizedbyforeigners."Billie"Tocavén,theproprietorofElGlobo,hadbeenrecommendedatvariousplacesbytravelers,andIfoundhimarightfinelittleFrenchman—oneofthekindwholikestoeatwellanddrinkwell,andgetasmanyothergoodthingsinlifeaspossible.Histable, fortheregion,wasexcellent,buthisbedroomswerearrangedlikethecellsofaprison,andcontainedabsolutelynothingbutcanvascotswithacoupleofspreadsoneach.However,afteramanhastraveledawhileintheSpanishMain,hedoesnotworryovertheabsenceoffurnitureinabedroom.IfoundthemarketplaceofTehuantepecinsomerespectsthemostinterestingofanyIeversaw.Themarketconsistedofatileroof,say40x80feet,supportedbyhugeroundbricksandcementpillars.Therewasatilefloor,slightlyelevatedabovethelevelofthebarrenplazainwhichitstood.Thetraderssquattedonthe floor forthegreaterpart,buta fewhadsmall tables,andone fairyoungsquawhadatabletwelvefeetlong,onwhichdrygoodswerepiledhigh.Womencommonlyhave themostof themarket trade in theirhandsall through theSpanish Main, but here they monopolized it. And very remarkable trade itwas—Lilliputiantrade,itmightwellbecalled,forlittlebutterplateswereusedinmeasuringoutpeasandriceforsoup;wedgesofcabbage,thesizeofaman'sthumbwere in constantdemand; squasheswere cut into chunks2x3 incheslarge,andonionsandgarlicwerecutintoquarters,andsoon.Thus,Ifrequentlysawawomanbuyapieceofbeefthesizeofherlittlefist,thengotoanotherdealerandbuyabutterplatefull(itmeasuredateaspoonfulonly)ofpeas,andanother of rice, a littlewedge of cabbage, three or four leaves, by count, ofgreens,withaquarterofanonionandahalfofagreenpepper,andthenarguewiththedealeroverthequantityofsaltshewastothrowinwiththispurchase.Evenbananasweresoldinquartersandhalves,andIsawawomanarguefor

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fiveminutesover thesizeofapieceofcabbage leafwhichshewas toget inexchangeforasinglehardsweetcake,aninchandahalfindiameter.Cornfortortillaswassoldbytheordinarysaucerful.Themangowastheonlyproductthatwassoldinquantities,andthelargestsaleofthosethatIsawwasadozen.Yet,inspiteofthescantquantitiesoffoodpurchased,thepeoplewerebynomeans ill-fed or poorly nourished in appearance. There was not a scrawnywomaninthemarket,whilethemen,thoughslender,wereabletocarryfrom125to150poundsontheirbackscomfortably,asIsawthemdo.Animportednoveltyonsaleinthemarketwasadouble-endedwaxmatch.Itsoldatthreecentsasmallbox.In one corner of the market was what might be called the restaurantdepartment.Soupswereconstantlyboilinginearthenjars,andtortillasbakingonflatroundtiles,supportedabovetinyfiresbystonesonothertiles.Coffeewasnotboiling,itwasleaching.Theyfilledajarthathadaperforatedbottomfullofgroundcoffee,andpouredwarmwateroverittoleachawaythestrength,andthatisthebestway,butone,tomakecoffee.Thebestwayofallistousecoldwater. Inthissectionoftherestaurantonecouldgeta light luncheon—soupandtortillasforthreecents,aprettygoodmealforfivecents,andallhecouldeatfortwelve.Atthispricehewouldhavemeat,beans,rice,andfruit,aswellassoupandtortillas.The women of Tehuantepec are, all things considered, perhaps the mostinterestingofanyintheSpanishMain.Certainly,inform,indress,andtosomeextent in their ideas, theyareunique.Asseenbya traveler, theyareamostcheerfullot,and,astheylaughedandtalked,onenoticedthattheirteethwereverywhiteandregular,andthattheirskin,thoughadarkreddish-brown,wasveryclear.Theirhairwasblackandstraight,ofcourse,fortheyareIndians,andtheyworeitinbraids.Theywereverygracefulinalltheirmotions,andtheirvoiceswererarelyshrill. Informtheywereerectandwellproportioned,theshouldersbeingratherwiderthanthehips,andthewaist likethatofthefatVenus.Theirhandsandfeetweresmallandshapelyinspiteofhardworkandlackofshoes,butthemostremarkablefeature,andonethatmakesthemwell-nighuniqueamongaborigines,wasthis, thatthebreasts,evenofmothersofconsiderable families,werenotpendant.Their faceswere Indian—that is tosay,usuallynotbeautifultoaYankeetaste.

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Thedress,savefortheheadgear,wasbutlittleabovethesimplicityofMotherEve'sfirstgarment.Overtheshoulderswasatinycalicowaist,cuthighintheneck, entirely sleeveless, and almost, but not quite, long enough to reach towhereYankeewomenwearthebelt.Itwasnotonlyscantinlength,butitwasaveryloosefitandofthintexture.Theycalleditasguapilito.Thatnosortofundergarmentwaswornwasobvioustothemostcarelessobserver.Foraskirt,apieceofcottongoods,perhapstwoyardslong,waswrappedaroundwhereskirtsare alwayswornand thecorners tucked in at thewaist.Somewomenworealongnarrowscarftosupportthisskirt,asabeltwoulddo,butmostofthemdependedontheholdthecornersoftheclothgotwhentuckedin.Thisseemedtoanunaccustomedspectatortoaffordaveryuncertainsupportfortheskirt,butIdidnotseeanyskirtdrop.Itisworthnotingthat,owingtotheshortnessofthewaist,aninchormoreofmobilebrownskinwasalwaysvisiblebelowit.Andyet,withinrecentyears,thewaist, theysaid,hadbeenlengthenedbecauseofaGovernmentdecree.Theyusedtoshowfromthreetofiveinchesofmobilebrownskin.Curiouslyenough,this alteration in fashion was decreed because of the sensitiveness of theforeignerswhocametoTehuantepectobuildtherailroad.Quiteasremarkableastheformoftheclothingwasthearrangementofcolors.Thewaistwascommonlyofonecolor,theupperhalfoftheskirtofanother,andthelowerhalfofathird.Isawsomewhohadredwaists,withblueandwhiteskirts,andsincetheskirtswereclinging,therewasanapproachtoabarber-polecoloringthatseemedveryfunnyatfirstconsideration.Thelowerpartoftheskirtwasalmostinvariablywhite,andthewomenseemedtotakeaprideinkeeping it so, just as a gentleman prefers spotless cuffs and collars. Thisindicatedthatthenativeswereacleanlyrace,andeveryonetowhomItalkedsaid that theywereso.Thiscuriousskirt, in theolddays,waswovenby thenatives themselves and dyed with native colors, blue and white being thecommoncombination,whilethearistocratscoloredtheupperhalfoftheskirtred.Redwasthebadgeofwealth,becausethecoloringmatterwasobtained,theysaid,fromakindofoystersthatyieldedbutonedropofcoloringmatterperoyster.Butthemostremarkablethingabouttheirdresswastheheadgear.TravelersinMexico have often noticed that themen there lavishmoney on the high-peakedfeltsombreroscommontothecountry,oftenpaying$50ormoreforone, while the women are content with a scarf ([?]) or a shawl. But in

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Tehuantepec,womenarenotcontentinthatfashion.Theymakeamoststrikinggarment,ofwhichthecommonuseisasaheaddress.Thenameofthisgarmentwaspronouncedbysomeas"weepeel"andbyothersas"wan-peel."Onemanwhowroteitformespelledit"guapil".Hesaiditwasalsowritten"guipil".Itisanextremelyscantywaist,withastarchedrufflesix incheswidearoundtheneck,anotherofthesamekindaroundthebottom,andothersstillinplaceofsleeves.Asordinarilyworn,ithangsdowntheback,withthehemofthebottomcaughtacrossthetopofthehead.Alltheruffles(alwaysstarchedstiff)standoutbehind,downtheback, inverycloseresemblancetoaSiouxwarbonnet.Whengoingtochurch,theyputthewaistoverthehead,sothattheneckrufflesurroundsthefaceandgivesittheappearanceofaconventionalsunburst.Atadance,theguapilisputonwaistfashion,whenthecollarruffleissuggestiveofthedaysofQueenElizabeth.Byallodds,themostpicturesquefashionisthatofwearingitdownthebacklikeawarbonnet.Forwomenwhostanderectandwalkwitheasygrace,asthesedo,theguapilisamostattractiveheaddress.Withtheguapil,theguapilito,andtheskirt,theTehuantepecwomenaredressedforanyemergency.IsawthemastravelersinOaxacawithnoothergarmentthanthesethree.Anotherfashionthatiswell-nighuniqueisthatofwearinggold-coinnecklaces.Therichusesilkinsteadofcottonforthedress,buttheprideofbothmatronandmaidisthegold-coinnecklace.TheAmericandoubleeagle isheldinthehighestestimation—theywillpaymoreforitthanfortwoeagles—andnexttothatisthetiny$1piece.Tohaveastringofanysortofgoldcoinsaboutherneckwith a $20 piece at the end on front is the dream, if not the hope, of everymaiden'sheart;andwhatherthoughtswouldbeatthesightofastringoftherare$1pieces,withaneight-squareslugattheend,ismorethanIcantell.ForeignersinGuatemalahadtoldmethatIshouldgodowntothesandybeachof the river in themorningwhen inTehuantepec, because itwas a commonthingforbothsexestobathetherenaked,regardlessofstrangers;but,whenIarrived, I found that this practice had beenwell-nigh abandoned, because acontemptibletrampphotographerhadtakensnapshotsatsomeofthebathers,and,takingsomeprints,hadexhibitedthemabouttownwiththegleethatmenwho carryobscene pictures exhibitwhen showing them.Among thewomenwhoweretreatedsowasthewifeofaJudgeoftheSupremeCourt.Thepracticeofbathingnakedinpublichadneverbeentothesewomenanymoreimmodestthan thatof goingbarefooted. Butwhen they found thatphotographsof thebathingwereusedasobscenepictures,theyweresoshockedbytheoutrage

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thatthephotographerhadtoflyfromthecountrytoescapethevengeanceofangryrelatives.IamboundtosaythatthewomenofTehuantepecare,intheirway,asmodestandsensitivetoridiculeasanyIeversaw,butthisisnottosaythat their notions of sexual morality are like those of ascetics. It should beremembered that theyare Indians,withnoverygreat intermixtureofwhiteblood, and that the purchase of women in the old days was a commontransaction.However,ongoingtotheriveroneevening,totakeadipmyself,Ipassedanumberofmenwhowerebathinginlittlewellsduginasandbar,andnearbythemwasawomanbather,who,judgingbythequalityofherclothing,belongedtooneoftherichfamilies.Herguapil,lyingonthesand,wasofsilk.Butmore interesting thananynumberofwomencrouchingover ahole in asandbarwasagangofboys runningalongshore, starknaked—genuine littlesavagesfrom8to12yearsold.Therewasaverveineverymotionthat,backedbythewhoopandyell,wasinspiring.Morethanthat,halftheboyshadbean-shootersmadeofspringyforksofbrush,thattheyusedwithprecision,whilesomeplayedagamepreciselylikeoneoftenseeninthestreetsoftheYankeemetropolis—hopscotch. They marked out a succession of rectangles on thesand, and then,whilehopping continuouslyonone foot, kicked a caju2 seedfromonesquaretothenext.Butaspiralhopscotchwasastillmoreinterestinggame.Ageometricalspiralwaslaidout,sayfifteenoreighteenfeetindiameter,andthealleywayintoitsheartabouteighteenincheswide.Thegamerequiredaboytostartatthemouth,andashehoppedalong,kickthecajuseedhometotheheartwithoutcrossingthelineorputtinghisfootdown.DancingisperhapsthechiefamusementofallinTehuantepec.Onepartoftheplazawascoveredoverwithsmoothtilestoformadancingfloorlargeenoughtoaccommodate ahundredcouples, Iguess.Theywaltzandschottischeandpolkaandsoon,andhavealotofnativedancesbesides.Isawalittleprivatepartyinonehousewheresixmenandsixwomenweredancing.Thewomenworeredwaistsandredskirtsandhadtinyredflagsstuckintheirhair.Eachheldaredhandkerchiefstretchedbydiagonallyoppositecornersinherhandbeforeher.Soarrayed,thewomenstoodinawidespreadlinefacingthemen,and all balanced fromone foot to theother andwaved theirbodies and thehandkerchiefsgentlytoandfrotothemusicofaslowwaltz.Themensteppedand inclined theirbodiesmuchas thewomendid. Itwasadreamysortofadance,andanimportantfeaturewasastopatfrequentintervalstotakeadrink

2Caju—Cashew(atropicalAmericantree)

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ofrum,butIdonotthinkitonelikelytoattractfavorintheUnitedStates—atleastnotintheruraldistricts,wherethejoyswhichfollowthecallto"swing"areprizedaboveallmeregraceofmovement.Thehousesthatfacedtheplaza,asarule,hadverandasraisedastepormoreabovethestreetlevel,andcoveredwithatileroof.Theseverandasservedeverynight for sleeping places for scores of men andwomen. Theywere, for thegreaterpart,peoplewhohadcometherewhiletheworkontherailroadwasinprogress.Theyhadbeenaccustomedtosleepingonthebaregroundorontilesalltheirlives,anditwasnohardshiptosleepontheverandas.Theygottheirfoodatthemarket,anditwassaidthateventuallytheywoulddriftawayhome.But themostprimitivehousekeeping Ieversaw inany townwasacross theriverfromTehuantepec,inthevillageofSantaMaria.SantaMariaispracticallyapartofTehuantepec,asBrooklynisoftheAmericanmetropolis,butpoliticallyitisseparate.IwentovertoSantaMariaafterhavingremainedinTehuantepecafewdays.Iarrivedatnightinthemidstofapouringrain.Thehousewasoneofthelargestofthetown,andofacuriousmodel. Itwasone-halfhouseandone-halfveranda,sotospeak.Itwasasifanordinaryadobe-walledhousewitharidgeroofhadbeenerected,exceptthatthefrontwallwassetbacksoastoriserightbeneathanduptotheridgepole,leavingthefronthalfopentotheweather, save for two thickpillars thatsupported the frontedgeof theroof.EngineerHall,whowasgoingtomakethetripthroughthemountainswithmetoOaxaca,camewithmetothishouse.Wewerewelcomedontheverandainthe dark by the landlady, and a cotwas provided forHall,while I slungmyhammock across a corner, just clear of the drifting rain, at one end of theveranda.Wewerewetthroughandtired,andveryquicklygotintoourbeds,being by no means disposed to quarrel because we were asked to makeourselvesathomeoutofdoors.But,themomentwestoppedtalking,weheardvoicesmingledwithgigglesintheoppositeendoftheveranda.Amomentlater,themooncamepartlythroughariftintheclouds,andlookingtoseewhomyhappyneighborsmightbe,Ifoundthereayoungmanandayoungwomaninahammock,andababyasleeponamatonthetilefloorhandyby—manandwifewith their first baby, as I learned next day. The couple wholly ignored thepresence of strangers, and lay there alternately teasing and talking andchucklingandlaughingaloudbetimes—themostexasperatinglyhappypairIever saw anywhere, exasperating at least to a lone spectator. The Spanish-American woman must be courted in the most devout fashion while sheremainscold,oratbestcoy,untilsheissatisfiedofthelover'ssincerity;but,aftersheiswon,shefindsitherchiefestdelighttodoatleastasmuchcourting

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as he does. And that is very likely the secret of the happiness of Spanish-Americanhomes,whichwaseverywheremanifest.Thesetwoyoungfolkswereunrestrainedly happy, and yet they were keeping house on one end of averanda,withnootherfurniturethananoldhammockandanoldmat.Theyhadnoclothessavewhattheywore,andtheironlykitchenfurniture,asIsawnextday,consistedofthreepiecesofredearthenware—awaterjar,apotforboiling,andaroundflattileonwhichtobaketortillas.Thewomangroundthecornforthetortillasonapairofstones[...]whichsheborrowed.Themanwasemployedontherailroadat75centsaday.Thewoman,havingnodishestowashworthmention, no floors to sweep ormop, nowindows to scrub, fewclothestowashormend,oranyotherkindofhousework,hadleisuregalore,andsheenjoyeditimmensely,Iguess,swinginginherhammock,thoughverysober-facedduringtheabsenceofherhusband.THESUNhastoldofthetrampsoftheColoradoandMojaveDesert,and,strangerstill,ofthetrampsofthebleakerdesertsofPatagonia.Itwillnot,therefore,besurprisingwhenitissaidthatTehuantepechasitstramps—notnatives,buttheviciousbruteofawhitemanwhocanbemadetoworkonlywithawhiporabayonet. Ihadseenwhite loafersall throughCentralAmerica;but,afterall, IwasnotalittlestartledwhenwalkingupthestreetsofTehuantepeconthewaytothehoteltofindthattheonlysignsintownthatwereinEnglishwerethere,oneabovetheother:

BRITISHCONSULATE

NOASSISTANCEFORTRAMPS

ItwassaidthattheconstructionoftherailroadsfromtheUnitedStates,downthroughMexico,hadbroughtthetravelingloaferonthefreighttrainsandthecartrucksasfarasOaxaca,andhehadwalkedthencethroughthemountainsto Tehuantepec and on towards Guatemala. I did not see any tramps inTehuantepec,butIhavenodoubttheygothereinnumberssufficienttoworrytheindustrious.

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Whilespeakingofforeignersthere,itmaybeworthtellingthattwoChinamenfoundemploymentasportersaboutthemarket,andthattherewasnosortofaDennisKearney3amongthenativeporters.On thewhole, themost interesting inquiryabout thepeopleofTehuantepecthatoccurredtomewasastotheirmannerofmakingaliving.AstrangerwouldhavehardworktoanswerthatquestionregardingthepeopleinanySpanish-American town, for there is rarely a visible industry, and beyond the townlimits,butscantsignsofagriculturalwork.IdonotrememberseeingamarketgardenanywhereintheSpanishMain,saveintheIsthmusofPanama,wheretheChinamenhadgonetowork.However,thereweremarketgardensofsomesorteverywhere,ofcourse,evenatTehuantepec,whereIsawlessindicationsofproductiveindustrythanatanypointontheroute.And,assaidatothertimesinTHESUN,nogreatproductionisneededtosupportpeopleinthetorridzone.And that factwould enable the torrid zone to control the earth, if only thepeopleknewhowtoemploytheirleisure.

-O-

3 Dennis Kearney (1847-1907) — Irish-born labor leader in California, known for hisnativismandracialviewsaboutChineseimmigrants.

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(2)OFMULESANDMULETEERS.4

TROUBLESOFATRAVELERINTHETEHUANTEPECISTHMUS.

ThereisaPeculiarityAbouttheMules—AStartatNightinaTropicalStorm—SoldiersCalledinWithSomeSuccessWhentheGuideFailed—GuidePrices.OnewhomakesthejourneyfromTehuantepectoOaxaca,inthesouthernpartofMexico,isnotunlikelytohaveexperiencesthatwillbeinteresting,perhapsinspiring,andcertainlyexasperating.Amongothers,therearetheexperienceswiththemulesandthemuleteers.Ofthemules,perhapsitwillsufficetosaythat theyareusually from theStateofChiapas, and that inChiapas the firstquestionaskedofthemuleselleristhis:"Ishebrokentothetailhold?"Theytoldmethatthetrailswerefoundsosteepallthroughthecordillerasthattravelerswereinthehabitofgraspingthemule'stailashestarteddowngrade,inordertopreventsliding fromthesaddleover themule'shead.Thiswaswhat theycalledthetailhold. if themulewasaccustomedtoit, thetailholdwasfoundadmirablyadaptedtothesituation.Butifthebeasthadnotbeentrainedso,hewassure tobuckat themost inopportunemoment,and thenbothmuleandriderbecameintegralpartsofanavalanche.AndthentheytoldmethatmulesellersinMexicowerejustlikebroncodealersinTexas:theyalways"haditinfor the tenderfoot," which is to say that they sold unbroken mules as well-trainedanimalstotheinexperiencedtraveler.So,Ihiredasway-backedhorseforpersonaluse,withasaddlebuiltliketheforkofatree.After themule, in interestcomes themuleteer.Myexperiences insecuringaguideareespeciallyworthrelating,becausethereinwasdevelopedoneofthemostremarkable,and,fortheforeignpromoterofbusinessenterprises,oneofthemostexasperatingtraitsoftheLatinAmericanpeople.VerysoonafterItoldLandlordTocavénwhenIwishedtoleaveTehuantepecforthecityofOaxaca,ayoungnativenamedFlorentinoGutierrezcametothehoteltoofferhisservicesasguideandmuleteer.Thelandlordguaranteedtheyoungman'shonesty,andaftersometalk—abouttwohours—thepriceandthedateandthehourofstartingwereagreedupon.Thisdone,theguideaskedforthepriceinadvance,sayinghemusthavemoneywithwhichtoengageextra 4PublishedbytheNewYorkSun,Sunday, January26,1896,page6;EditedbyDuncanS.Campbell,February2019

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mulesandtoleaveforthesupportofhisfamilyduringthetwelvedayshewouldbe away from home. The landlord and a number of American railroadmenassuredmethatthiswasthecustomofthecountry,andthatnoonewouldtakemeonanyotherterms.So,themoneywasgiventohim—$22.50insilver—formy share;Mr.Hall, anAmericanengineer,whowasgoing forwardwithme,payingthesamesum.ThecontractwasfortransportationfromTehuantepectoOaxaca, fourmules tobeprovided, and thehourofstartingwas thepeepofdawnofthesecondday.Onthedaybeforethestartaheavyrainbegan,thefirstoftherainyseason,andaheavyrainatsealevelinthetropicsisheavyindeed.Itlookedratherbadforthenextmorning,andwhen,justafternightfall,theguidecametothehotel,Iwaspreparedtohearhimsayitwouldbeimpossibletogoonnextday.Tomysurprise, hewasquite enthusiasticover theprospectofmaking the journeyveryquickly,butwhenhehadexpressedhisenthusiasmseveraltimesover,inverythicklanguage,Isawthathisgoodspiritswereduetothefactthathewaswell-nighstaggeringdrunk.Aboutthetimethisbecameapparent,heproposedthatwegotoaplaceacrosstheriverinthesuburbofSantaMaria,andwhenweobjected,hesaidwemust,becausetheriverwouldbetoohighforthemulestofordinthemorning.Weagreed to go then, of course, and asked him if he hadmules ready for thebaggage.Thatmadehim laughaloud.Why shouldhebringmules?He couldcarrythetrunkof"MeesterHall,"andIcouldcarrymyownbaggage,couldInot?Itwasnotaccordingtothecontract,andtherainwasfloodingdown,butitwasaninterestingexperience.We helped him get the trunk on his back, and, although it weighed 125pounds—quite asmuch as he did—he walked awaywith it for a timewithapparentease.IfollowedwithmybundlesinhandandHallbesideme.Weweredrenchedbeforewehadcrossedtheplaza,butthatwasonlythebeginningoftheadventure.Beforeanotherblockwaspassed,theguideslippedandpitchedthetrunkhalf-wayacrossthestreet,shatteringoneofthetrunk'scornersbadly.Hallwasexasperated,butwehelpedthefellowtogetthetrunkupagain.Wehadscarcelydonesowhenheslippedandfellwiththetrunkontopofhim.Hehowledoverthatcheerfully—itwascheerfulatleasttoustohearhimhowl,foravarietyofreasons,butchieflybecauseweknewfromthenoisehemadethathewasnotbadlyhurt.So,wehelpedhimupagain,andthereafterhewentoncarefullyuntilwereachedtheferrytoSantaMaria.Theriverwasalreadyrising,

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afterthefashionofsuchmountainstreams,butwhenIaskedtheferrymanifwewerenotsuretogototheseainsteadofSantaMaria,hesaid"Letusgoandsee,"whichwedid,andarrivedintheusualplace,becausehecouldhandlehislumberingbongoasanAlgonquinusedtohandleabarkcanoe.Onceashore,wefoundourtroublesincreasing.Florentinohadbecomechilledashesatintheboat,andwasshiveringfromheadtofoot.Hestaggeredunderthetrunkashewalked,andsoonfell.Wehelpedhimup,andhestaggeredontothetopoftheslopingbank,andthenfellagain,andthengaveitup.Hesaidhewouldgoandgetamantocarrythetrunk,butwestoppedhim.Wethoughtlikelyhewouldnotreturn,andsowehelpedwiththetrunkwhileheshowedthewaytothehousewhereweweretoremain.Wehadagreedthatweshouldleaveatdaylightnextday,butIwasinnowaysurprisedwhenFlorentinofailedtoappearuntil10o'clock.Therainwasfallingashardaseverand theriverwasbooming.Thenextdayafter that, therainceased,buttheriverwasstillhigher,andasourtraillayacrossonimportanttributary, we could not go on if we wanted to. Florentino was sure theconditionswouldfavoraveryearlystartthenextdaystill,andhewarnedusimpressivelytobeready.Wewerereadywhenthetimecame,butwedidnotseeFlorentinountil11o'clock.Whenweaskedwhyhehadnotcomeasagreed,hesaidhelackedonemule,andthen,byalittlecross-questioning,welearnedthat he had not up to thatmomentmade any effortwhatever to secure themulesneeded.ThenIsaid:"Itisverybad.Weareinahurrytogo.Makeusthefavortosecurethemulesfortomorrow."Hesaidhewoulddoso,andthatitwouldpleasehimtoarriveearly.Butwedidnotseehimnextdayuntilsundown,whenheappearedasaprisonerbetweentwosoldiers.Findingwhenthemorningcamethathewasnotonhand,wewenttohishouse,wherehiswifesaidshedidnotknowwherehewas.Wesearchedatacoupleofhisloafingplaces,buthehadnotbeenthere.So,wewentovertoTehuantepec,andaskedLandlordTocavénwhatweshoulddo."Donothing,"hesaid."Leaveittome."ThenhewrotealettertotheAlcaldeofthe town, telling the story. The Alcalde sent two soldiers to bring in theprocrastinator,andtheydidit.Florentinolookedashappyasalark,andwhenIsuggestedthathehadbeenonone,lelaughedcheerfullybutmadenoreply.

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Instead,hetookabagfromhisbosomandpouredforty-fivesilverdollarsonthe table. "There is yourmoney," he said. "You thought Iwas a thief. See themoney.Iamhonest.""Butwehavelostallthistime,"saidI,andatthathelookedinwonderatthoseabouthim,andsaid,bywayofexplanationofmyprotest:"HeisanAmerican."FlorentinohadatfirstbeenreallyenthusiasticovertheprospectofaprofitablejourneytoOaxaca.Couldwehavestartedatonce,hewouldhaveenjoyedthejourneygreatly,andIhavenodoubthewouldhavebeenaninterestingguide.Butthedelayduetotherainbroughtonareaction.Hecametolookuponthejourney with unreasoning dread, and yet his love of money prevented hisbringingthesilverbacktous.WheninGuatemalaCity,Isawamachineshopthatwasfittedupwithasgoodasetoftoolsasanyonecouldaskfor.Itwaswelllocated,too,andthecoffeeplantationsandmillsoftheregionwerenumerousenoughtofurnishalltheworktheproprietorneedaskfor.Buthiscouragegaveoutjustastheworkmenwereputtingthefinishingtouchesontheshop.Afewthousandsofdollarsmorewereneededtoopentheplaceandkeepitrunningduringthefewmonthsneededtogiveitareputationforgoodwork.Buttheownerpreferredtoallowthisshoptostandidle—toletatleast$100,000worthofplantgotoruintroughidleness—ratherthanriskthe$5,000neededtomaketheplantpayenormousdividends. InRio Janeiro, astreetrailroadcompanyimported an electrical plant for their road. Somemistakewasmade,whichnecessitated the expenditure of a comparatively modest sum in addition towhattheyhadexpected,andatoncetheyabandonedthewholeenterprise,andwhenIwastherethewholeplantwassaidtoberuined.TheLatin-Americansare in some respects the most patient people in the world, but of patientpersistencefortheprosecutionofanenterpriseunderunexpectedbadauspicestheydonotseemtohavealittlebit.Florentinohavinggivenuphiscontract,wehadtosearchforanewguide.Wegotagoodone,butthefellow,knowingthatwewerenowanxioustogetontoescapetherainyseason,heldusupfor$20ingoldinsteadof$22.50silver.

-O-

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(3)OVERATRAILTOOAXACA.5

ONHORSEBACKFROMTEHUANTEPECTOAMEXICANEDEN. WondersoftheSceneryandPeculiaritiesofHumanLifeintheCordilleras—HiddenPerilsofthe Mexican Breakfast—A Patient Half-breed Wife and her Management of a DrunkenHusband—Native Caravans—A Song thatwas not Composed for American Ears—HappyFarmLife,fromWhichtheYankeeMightLearn. IfanyreaderofTHESUNislookingforanoutinginsomeplacethatisatoncewildandpicturesqueandyeteasyofaccess, lethimbuyarailroadticketforOaxaca,Mexico,and,whenthere,engageaguideandmulesforajourneyoveroneofthetrailstoTehuantepecandbackbyanother.OrheneednotreturntoOaxaca. He can cross the Isthmus and get a steamer to New Orleans. Therailroads fromNewYork lead tomanywild andpicturesque regions, but tonone, Iguess, thatcanoffermoreattractions than theextremesouthpartofMexico.For,notonlymayonefindtheremagnificentmountainscenery,curiousforms of civilization and half civilization, ruins of extinct races, and amostdesirableclimate,buthecanreachthelandincomfortablerailwaycars,andhecan travel all over it, if at all accustomed tocamp life,without anyhardshipworthmentioning.Indeed,ifthetravelerwillsecureamule-sedanchairforaconveyance,hecanmakehisout-of-the-waymountainjourneyincomparativeluxury.MyownjourneythroughtheregionwasmadewithaYankeeengineernamedHall, from Tehuantepec, or, strictly speaking, from Tehuantepec's Brooklyn,SantaMaria,toOaxaca.Wehadengagedamiddle-agedguide,wholookedlikeamanofintelligence,andourfirst-formedopinionofhimwasconfirmedwhenhearrivedattheboardinghouseanhourbeforesunriseandhadthepackmuleloadedandourselves inthesaddleahalfhourlater,havinginthemeantimebuiltafireandboiledcoffeeforallhands,includinghisson,aladofsixteen,whowasgoingalongjustforthepleasureofmakinghisfirsttripawayfromhome.Wewerethereforeremarkablycomfortableaswelefttheirregularstreetsofthetownandstruckoffacrossthecountrynearlyduenorth.

5 PublishedbytheNewYorkSun,Sunday, January26,1896,page6;EditedbyDuncanS.Campbell,February2019

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Itisworthmentioningthatwewerecomfortableatthestart,becausetheday,forwantofproperprecaution,broughtthehardeststrainphysicallythatIeverendured.WestartedthusearlywiththeusualSpanish-Americanbreakfast—acupofcoffeeandabitofcornbread(tortilla).Althoughitwasfourteenleagues6tothefirstvillage,therewasnohopeofgettinganyfoodontheroute,andthechanceswerethatwewouldfindlittleifanywater.Thelightbreakfastwasallrightforthenatives,whohadbeenraisedonsuchfare,butnoYankeetravelershouldstartonsolittle,eventhoughhemayhavebeenfourorfivemonthsinthecountry.The road, for five miles, lay across what seemed to be a dead, flat, alluvialcountrycoveredwithadense,althoughnotaparticularlylofty,forest.Theroadwasdryenough,inspiteofaheavyrainfallduringthreedaysbeforeourstart,butitlookedforalltheworldliketheroadsthatcouldbeseeninsummerintheregionabouttheheadwatersoftheMaumeeRiverinOhioandIndiana,thirtyyearsago.Thesoilwasblack,thefoliagewasgreenandvigorous,andtheair,foranhourortwo,coolandrefreshing.Afewbirdswithexplosivelyloudvoiceswereheardintheforest,but,onthewhole,thereseemedtobeanotablelackofanimallifealongthetrail.Whenfiveleaguesout,wecrossedacreekthathadacurrentafewinchesdeepandarodorsowide,which,buttwodaysbefore,hadbeenaragingtorrent,asmarksalongtheshorerevealed.Theguidesaidthatduring the dry season—for several months preceding May—no water wasfoundthere,andthattravelerswhodidnotcarrywaterweresuretosuffer.We now had reached the foothills of the Cordilleras, and the trail becamesomewhatundulating,andthereforemorepleasant.Butthemost interestingfeatureofthescenerywasalargemountain,risingofftotheright—notthatitwasnoveloruniqueasamountain,butbecauseofwhatwastoldaboutit.Theguidepointedoutaplacewhereasmalltablelandseemedtobescoopedoutofthesideofthemountain.AnarrowfoottrailleduptherefromtheTehuantepecside,hesaid,atrailsosteepthatonlyanactivemountaineercouldclimbit,but,fromthetablelandorbench,agoodroad,wideenoughforcarts,hadbeenmadealongthefaceofthemountainaroundtothefurtherside,whereit leddownintoavalleythroughwhichariverusedtorun—theTehuantepecRiver,ifonecouldbelieve thestory.Theguidesaid that "some foreigners"hadbeenoverthereexaminingit,andtheyconcludedthattheriverhadbeenturnedintoitspresentchannelby"theancients."

6League—Anarchaic,variableexpressionofdistance,approximately3miles(5km)

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Howeverthismightbe,onethingwascertain:thatbenchonthemountainsideoncehadbeenthesiteofapopulouscity.Therewereremainsofhouseswhosewallsweremadeofbrokenrockthatshowednosignofatoolmark—justas"inArcadia,whenIwasthere,Ididnotseeanyhammeringstone."7Butthereweretwopyramidsofthesamekindofstone,eachofwhich,verylikely,was"atombforsomeambitiousbooby."Therewereseveralmoundstenfeetlong,sixwide,andsixhigh,but theuseof themcanonlybeguessed.More interestingstill,therewereseveraltanks100feetindiameterandthreefeetdeep,besidesmanysmallerones. Therewere vaultswhere humanboneswere tobe found, andeverywherenoendofbrokencrockery.Occasionally,copperaxesandknivesmightbefound.Fromacentralpointamongtheruins,atunnelrandownintothemountain,andsome have guessed thiswas a passage to the river, for usewhen an enemybesiegedthecity,whileothersthinkitwastheshaftofagoldmine.Overallwasatropicalgrowthoftreesandbrush.Itwouldhavebeeninterestingmerelytolookontheserelicsofaformercivilization,andverymuchmoreinterestingtoexplorethemthoroughly,butmybusinesswaswiththelivingonly.Bythetimewehadpassedthismountain,thesunwashighenoughtomakeanumbrelladesirable,but therewasnosuchdevice in theparty.BothHallandmyself felttheheatconsiderably,andasnooncameon,bothofusfoundourstomachsinbadorder.Westoppedwhereasmallspringofhardwatercameout of the rocks, and bathed our heads and drank sparingly, althoughintolerablythirsty,becausecopiousdrinkingwhenoneisoverheatedisabouttheworst thing thatcanbedone.Wehadonly ascantsupplyofnativecorncakestoeat,butappetitewasgone,andtheamountonhandatthattimewasofsmallmoment.Theafternoon'srideproved,ofcourse,moretryingstill,butIhaveonlyafaintmemoryofit,andmadenonotes.AllIcanrecollectissittingin the saddle as the horse ambled along a wide, glaring, yellow trail, withhundredsofsmallbrownishlizardsconstantlyinsight,scamperingaboutinalldirections,butchieflyrunningaheadofthehorseIwasriding.Iwasaboutdoneforwhen,at4o'clock,wecametoabrookthattumbleddownoutofacanyonwithamostcheerfulsuggestionofcoolness,andafterfifteenminutesofbathinginthis,Iwasinfairconditiononcemore.Whilestoppingby

7QuotationsfromWalden,byHenryDavidThoreau

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thisbrook,Ifoundinadepressionoftherockabitofblacksand,whichIpouredinagourddrinkingcup,afterthefashioninwhichNevadadesertprospectorstesttheirfindsinahornspoon.Ifoundseveralverydistinctcolorsofgoldatthebottom,butwhen I showed these to theguide, he said: "It is impossible.Thereisnogoldhere,becausemanypeopletravelthistraileveryday,andtheywouldhavefoundityearsago."ButIdonotthinkImadeamistake.Justatdarkwereachedavillagethathadanunrememberablename,andherewegotaverygoodmeal,thatincludedboiledchickenandbeef.ThenIswungmyhammock,whileHallgotabedwhichhadfishpolecanesinlieuofspringsandmattress.Thiskindofbediscommonthroughouttheregion,althoughveryoften the traveler can find no bed at all andmust sleep on the floor or theground.Tothetraveler,therefore,nomorevaluableadvicecanbegiventhanto takewith him a good canvas (man o' war) hammock. And if a traveler'sstomachgetsoutoforderanywhereinMexicobecauseofthehardshipsoftheroute, there is alwaysa sovereign remedyathand in thenativedrink calledmescal.Ishouldbesorrytohaveanyonetaketothedrinkinghabitinthetorridzone.Itis excessivedrink, andnot the climate, that carriesoff somanynorthernersthere,butmescalinsmallquantity,nightandmorning,curedmeofmytrouble,asithascuredmanyothersinlikecircumstances.Moreover,Icannotimaginethat anyone born outside of Mexico could ever come to like mescal as abeverage.Westartednextmorningat3o'clock,havingonlytheusuallightbreakfastofthe country, but we had in our ride of the previous day got up into themountains and found a climate very much better adapted to Yankeeconstitutions,andwedidnotmindtheheatofthesunatall.Besides,whennooncame,wereachedatinyhamletwhere,inahousethathadwallsoffishpolesonly(saveforcornerposts),wegotfoureggseach,a lotofdriedbeef,beansgalore,andcoffee,besidesasmuchnativecornbreadaswewanted.Itwasallexceedinglygood,exceptthecoffee.TheMexicansofallthatregionbrownthecoffee toomuch—burn it, really—and then grind the berries to a fine dust,betweentwostones.Thentheyboilthedustinwater.Nofurtherdescriptionisneededforonewhoknowstheartofcoffeemaking.Fromtheseconddayuntilthefourth,wedidnotseeenoughlevellandforaten-acrefarm,althoughtherewasalittlelandstandingonedge,sotospeak,that

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was cultivatedhere and there. But therewereenough things to interest thetraveler.Forinstance,ontheeveningoftheseconddaywearrived,afterarideoftwelveleagues,atamostwretched-lookinglittleranchobythewayside.Notonlywerethewallsmadeofunchinkedfishpolesandtheroofofthatchedpalmleaves, but one side of the home had no wall at all, and the place lookedneglectedevenforthatcountry.Moreover,themembersofthefamily—amanandthreewomen,besideschildren—wereallalmostuncivil.Thatwasamostastonishingreception,butwecouldn'tgoonverywellbecausethenexthousewassixleaguesbeyond.Aconsiderabledroveofchickensrambledaroundthehouse,andmyappetitewassharpset.Theusualpriceofachickentoaforeignerthereis25cents. Iofferedthatsumforonetotheseñora,butsheshookherhead.Shehadnonetospare,andwecouldhavebreadandbeansonly.ThenIoffered50cents,butshesaid"No"veyemphatically.So,ItooktheguidetoonesideandtoldhimIwantedachicken,andIwouldgive$1foragoodone.Hesaid:"Iwilltry.Yougotothecreek."HallandIatoncewentdowntothecreekandhadagoodbath.Whenwegotbacktheseñorawasputtingacut-upchickenintoapot,alongwithsomenativepeppers and an herb I did not recognize. A little later, the chicken, with anabundantquantityofbroth,hotandsavory,wasputbeforeus,whiledriedbeefroastedonthecoals,beansequaltotheBostonarticle,andcorncakesequaltohoe-cakeweresuppliedinmostliberalfashion.Lastofall,ateamadeofanativeherb, good in spite of a sage taste, was brought to us.When we had eatenheartilyIaskedforthebill.Theseñorasmilinglysaid,"Twenty-fivecentseach,"thepriceshehadproposedtochargeforcorncakesandbeansonly."Howdidyoudoit?"saidItotheguidewhenIgothimalone."Itwas very easy. I offeredher the $1 for the chicken, as you toldme, but sherefusedit.Then,Isaidtoher,'Thegentlemanissick.Becausehisstomachisverybadheneedsthegoodfood.Buthecannottalkourlanguagewell,sohesentmetoaskthegoodladytomakehimthefavor.'Caramba!Isshenotthegoodlady?Shekilledthechickenandchargesnothingextra."Atvariousplacesisawthenativeideaofacradle—anetmadesometimesoftwineandsometimesofslender,flexiblevines,stretchedintoaflat,rectangularhammockbymeansofstiff,slendersticksonthefoursides.Fromthecorners,stoutlinesledtoacommoncenteraboutthreefeetabovethenet,andfromthatpointaropeextendedtothelimbofatreeorarafterofaveranda.Itwasatonceahammockandaswing,andthebabiessleptorturnedtheirbigbrowneyes

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gravely toward the stranger, according to circumstances, but neither eithercriedorlaughedwhileIwasaround.IobservedthatwhenItoldamotherthather babywas very pretty, she took the compliment in amatter-of-factway,whichseemedtobetokena lackofappreciationofa foreigner'sopinion,butwhenIsaidtomyguide,asifIdidnotthinkthemotherwouldhearit,thattherewas an extremely beautiful baby, the mother showed the usual signs of amother'sprideandpleasure.Onedayacuriouslotofnatives,travellingafoot,wereovertakenontheroad.Therewerefiveofthem,allbarefooted,andinthegarboflaborers.Ontalkingwiththemwefoundthatonewasaninvalid,oratleastthoughthewas,andthathewasenroutetoOaxacatoconsultadoctor.Ashehad,justbeforethat,toldmehehadwalkedfromeighttotenleaguesadaysinceleavinghishomeinChiapas,thestatementthathewasdangerouslysickseemedsomewhatastonishing,butwhenhetriedtoexplainwhatailedhim,myknowledgeofthelanguagefailedme.AtthelittlepueblowhereI foundthebeautifulchurch8recentlydescribedinTHESUN,Ifoundthreenativemendrunk,oneofthembeingsodrunkthathecouldnotwalkthreerodswithoutfallingdown.Thisman'swifewastryingtogethimtogohome,contrarytohisdesire.IhaveseenmanysuchincidentsintheUnitedStates, and right sorry affairs theyallwere, buthere in this littlemountainhamlet,drunkennesswasnotexactlythesameevilthatitisnorthoftheRioGrande.Noteventhechildrenplayingaroundthestreetpaidanyspecialattentiontothedrunkard'sdoings.Plainly,hewasnotdisgracedintheeyesofhis neighbors by his condition. The wife did not, so far as I could see, feeldegradedeither.Butwhatstruckmemostwastheconductofthewifeasshestrovetokeephimheadeddownthetrailandwalkingalong.Neverwasawifekinderorgentlerorsweeterintemper.Itwasbestforhimtogohome,andshedidnotforamomentceaseinhereffortstogethimthere,butnotacrosswordoralookorasighwastobenoted.Onthecontrary,shecoaxedandpettedandcaressedhimcontinually,andwhenhebrokeawayandtriedtogoback,sheonlybecamethemoreaffectionate.Whenhefellheadlong,shecaughthimsothathedidnotfallheavily,andwhenshehelpedhimtohisfeet,shecarefullydustedhisclothesandcleanedhisface.Ineversawapublicportrayalofgoodwifelyqualitiessobeautifulasthat,orsopathetic,either,forthatmatter.And this incident seems all the more worth telling because the womandisplayed only the common characteristics of her race, as I came to believe

8SanBartoloYautepec—DescribedintheSunarticlePriestlyPeculiarities,5January1896

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themtoexist.IcertainlydonotmeantoadviseYankeementogethalf-breedIndiansforwives,for,toamanofsense,awomanisinallrespectsadesirablecompanioninproportiontoherwisdom,culture,andambition;but,evenamanofculturemightdoworsethanmarryanativeoftheStateofOaxaca.AtthevillageofSanCarlos,whereIremainedovernight,Ifoundaremarkablelittleplaza.Itwasashady,grassysquare.Inthecenterstoodastructurethatlooked like a two-story round pagodawith a cone-shaped roof, sixty feet indiameter.Thereweretwelvesquaretilepillars,twelvefeethigh,supportingtherimoftheroof.Withinthesepillarswasasmoothedtilefloorthatwasfifteenfeetwide,laidaroundagreatcentralfountainofwater.Aroundthisfountainstoodanumberoftreetrunkstosupporttheroofframe.Abouteightfeetabovethetilefloorwasthewoodenfloorofanupperstory—asomewhatcontractedstorywhere the stand-up spacewas chiefly beneath the peak of the roof. Aladderofpolesledtothis,and,onexamination,Ifoundthereseatsandmusicholdersforabrassandstringband.Then I came back and saw that a narrow bench ranch from pillar to pillararoundtheouterrimofthesmoothedtilefloor,saveattheentrance,anditwasplain to see that people had sat often on every part of that long bench.Moreover, on each of the central pillars was a good kerosene lamp, whilebracketsextendingbetweentheouterpillarshadplacesforholdingseventy-two candles. Cool, sweetwaterwelled up in the center of the fountain andflowedawaythroughanunseenconduit.Theshadewaseverywheresolidandcomforting.Thetileshadbeensmoothedbythebarefeetofthevillagers,whilethemusicians,stowedoutofthewayinthelittleloftabove,playedwaltzesandpolkasandotherstrainsthatdelightyoungheartsonthenightsoffeastdays.Ononesideoftheplaza,facingthispagoda,couldbeseenthecrumblingwallsofanunfinishedchurch.Twocrackedbellswerehangingunderalow,ruderoofsupportedon fourroughpolesbefore theoldruin. Iguess thatabuildingofdwelling-houseformnearbywasusedasachurchsometimes.IshouldsaythatpeoplewhodonotapproveoftheformofworshipprevailinginLatin-AmericancountrieswouldsaythattheSanCarlositesshowedintheirpublicstructuresmorehorse sense than superstition.As I saw thepeople there, they seemedhealthy,hearty,andclear-eyed. Idonotbelieve theywereanyworseoff forhavingcompletedtheiropen-airdancinghall.

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ThehotelofSanCarlos,althoughsmall,wasineverywayasattractiveapublichouseasIeversawanywherebetweenPanamaandPasodelNorte.Amongthepleasant features was a large court full of trees and flowers, on which thebedroomsopened,andherewerethreedeer,keptaspets.At intervals along the route we met the muleteers of the country, carryingfreightfromOaxacatoall thelowerpartsofthecountry. I shouldhavebeengladtomakeajourneywithsomeoftheseparties,fortheyhadsomethingaboutthemthatremindedmeofthestagedriversoftheUnitedStatesfrontier,andalsooftheboatmenontheErieCanal.Theywerecitizensofthetrail,carryingtheirfamilieswiththemsometimes.Amongtherestwereseveralsmalltrains,whereonemanandonewomanonlywereincharge.Thesemuleteerswereallyoung.Thewomenweregood-looking,andwereinallcasesdressedinjauntyfashion.Apeculiarityoftheirdresswasthehigh-peakedhat,whichallMexicanmenwear,andInoticedthattheirhatswereornamentedabitmorethanwerethehatsoftheiryoungmen,andthattheyworethemtippedjustabittooneside.Alltheyoungmenworeknives.TravelersintheCordilleraswouldbeverymuchdisappointediftheydidnotfindoccasionallythetrailleadingalong"thebrowofafrowningprecipice,"and"wheretheleastmisstepwouldhaveprecipitatedone1,000feetintothefrightfulchasmbelow,"toquotethewordsofatravelerofwhoseadventuresIreadmanyyearsago.ThroughoutthejourneyintheSpanishMain,Iwasonthelookoutforthefrowningbrowandthefrightfulchasm,butluckseemedtobeagainstme.InCostaRicaIfoundthetrailoverlookingaverticalprecipiceperhapsfiftyfeethigh,butthenthetrailwascart-roadwide,andlinedwithtreesonbothsides.InHonduras,Ifoundonethatwasperhaps100feethigh,butanyactiveladfromNewYorkcouldscrambledownitsroughfacewithnogreatdanger.So,whenwegotintotheCordillerasoftheStateofOaxaca,andforthreedaysclimbedabout the sides of the really loftymountainswithout ever seeing a verticaljump-offbeside the trail thatwould comparewith thebluffson theHudsonRiver,Igaveitup.AndthenIgotthethrillIhadbeenlookingfor,althoughitwasfurnishedbyanative.Wehadjustcrossedadivide,andweregoingdownacomfortabletrailatleastsixfeetwide,withhighbanksoneachside—wewerereally inagulch—when,onroundingaturn,onebankcametoanend,andasheerprecipiceabsolutelybareandsmoothwasrevealed.Thedropwaswell-nigh200feet.Ofcourse,atumbleof200feetwouldbeasserious as one of 1,000, but therewasn't any chance for a tumble. The trail

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remainedatleastfivefeetwideatthenarrowest,and,moreover,itwasroughenoughtogiveagoodfootholdtotheanimal.But,whileIlooked,anativeoftheshoe-wearing class was seen coming up the trail about 200 yards away. Istoppedmyhorseatawiderspotinthetrail,madeapparentlyforaturnout,andwaitedforhim.Hesawmedothis,butinsteadofkeepingonthesafesideof the trail, he guided his mule to the very edge—the frowning brow oftravelers' tales.Amoment later themulereachedacrumblingplace,and forthreestepsIsawtherockgivewayunderits feet,andonlybyaremarkableexertiondid it escape the plunge.This native traveler, it seemed tome,hadguided hismule to the edgeof the trail outof adesire to show thathewaswhollyindifferenttothedangersofmountaintravel.Ithinkhewasavainfool.I do not mean to say that all travelers who tell of narrow escapes fromprecipicesareguiltyoflikebravado,butIshouldsaythatwherethetrailiswideenoughforamulewithamanastrideofhim,itiswideenoughforamanafoot,and if therideon thebackofamulemade the travelergiddy,hecouldveryeasilyavoidthefeelingbywalkingovertheseeminglydangerousplace,andsosavethenecessityofharrowingthereader'sfeelingsafterward.ItriedwalkingonthefirstdaywewereintheCordilleras,butforadifferentreason.Iclimbedsomeofthesteepesttrailstosavethehorse,butalongintheafternoonthehorseobjectedtomymountingagain.Itwasanarrowtrail,andtherewasnowayofheadinghimoff,soforthreemilesIalternatelysneakedandran,invaineffortstogetahand-holdonsomepartofthewilybeast,whiletheguideandtheengineermadeunfeelingremarksandenjoyedthemselvesasmuchasthehorseseemedtodo.Thetrail,foragoodpartoftheway,istherouteoftheGovernmenttelegraphline.TelegraphlinesintheUnitedStatesareeverywhereodioustotheeye,butinOaxacaitisnotso.Therewasbutasinglewire,andthatwasstretchedfrommountaintoptomountaintopinmagnificentcurves,oftenahalfmileormoreinlength.At intervalswemetnativescarrying longpoles thatweresplitat thesmallerendintofourprongs,whichweresharpened.Theseprongsallseemedtohavebeenbathedinblood,atfirstglance,andsowerenotalittlegruesome.But I quickly noticed that themouths of those carrying these four-prongedspearswereallsmearedwiththesamecolor,andthenIlearnedthatthespearswereusedtogatherared,juicyfruitofthetoweringcactusoftheregion.Thegreatcactus forestson thesidesof thosehugemountains formnot the leastinterestingfeatureofthelandscape.

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AtTotolapa,Iswungmyhammockundertheverandaintherearofacountrystorethat,inthevarietyanddispositionofitsgoods,suggestedacountrystoreintheStates,althoughtheshelvesbackofthecounterweremadeentirelyoffishpole canes. There were a dozen men and women [lounging] about—aregular, cracker-barrel clique, it seemed to be—but instead of discussingpoliticsafterthemannerofYankeeloungers,theygotacoupleofguitars.Twoof themen played these, sitting thewhile on the counter, while two youngwomenandfouryoungmendancedasortofjig,stoppingatintervalstosingasong about the troublous love adventures of two wild animals of differentbreedsandsexes.TomakesurethatIunderstoodthedriftofthesong,Iaskedtheguideaboutit,repeatingthechorus."Itiswell.Youcansingitperfectly.Theywillbegladtohaveyoujointhem.""No,Idonotwishtodothat.Itisajollysonganddance,"Isaid,"butinmycountry,iftheyshouldsingitinpublic,theywouldbearrested.Thesongwouldbecalledindecentthere.""PorDios!Isthattrue?"saidhe."AndistherenolibertyintheUnitedStates?"Thisseemstobeworthrelating,becausenobodyinthatcountryregardsasongminutelydescriptiveofthedoingsofanimalsinthematingseasonasinanywayimproper.ItwasasinnocentandasentertainingtothemastheMerryWivesofWindsortoaculturedAmericanreader.We leftTehuantepecon a Sundaymorning.After the firstday, our trailwaswhollywithin theCordilleras for threedays. It climbed throughgulchesandcanyons; it zigzagged hither and yon, upmountains that rose far above theclouds;itroseovercrestsanddivides,andplungeddownbydeviousways(andonceoveramassofslide-rock9)tofollowthebedsofmountainstreams.Itwasoftendifficult,andsometimesitwasbarren,butitwascontinuallypicturesquebeyonddescription.Idonotbelievethatanytrailofthatlengthanywhereintheworldcanbemoreattractivetoahardytraveler.OnThursdayafternoonwerodeouton awide plateau that, although surroundedby yellowish, barren-looking peaks, was one great garden bed—the plains of Oaxaca. No finercombinationofsoilandclimateliesunderthesunthanthisgreatvalley.Itwaslike a magnified river bottom of the Indian Territory, without the IndianTerritory fever andague,or itwas like anamplifiedMohawkValleyundera

9Slide-rock—Slopeformedofloosestonesorrockdebris;scree

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perpetualJunesky.Forthereisneitherwetnordryseasonhere,asthetermisunderstoodelsewhereinthetropics.Aswerodealong,wesawmenturningupthesoilwithplowsthatweremadeoftreerootslashedtolongsaplings.Inotherfieldstheywereplantingcorn.Inothersthecornhadsprouted.Inshort,withinarideofoneleague,wesawmenplanting,cultivating,harvesting,andcarryinghomecropsofcorn.Wesawwheatfieldsinlikediversestatesofmaturity.ThethreshingofthegrainwasdonebydrivingastringofburrosoverthestrawthatwasspreadinsideofaveryexcellentimitationofaYankeecircusring;andthiswason the firstdayof June.Ofvegetableswesawagreatvariety in themarketplaces,andpeachesandpearsaswell;but, curiouslyenough,wesawnone of these things growing anywhere, althoughwe rode fourteen leaguesthrough theheartof theregion.Thereweregreat flocksofsheepandgoats,everywhere in charge of shepherds, for no fenceswere to be seen.We sawcoffee plantations with the trees set much too near together, and rightalongside them we saw mesquite trees and sage bushes, and jackrabbitsdodging about as they do in the Texas Panhandle. But probably the mostinterestingfeatureofthevalleyisthemanneroflifeofthesimplenatives.Therewasnotafarmhouseinallthisrichagriculturalregion,but,scatteredoverthevalleyatintervalsoftwoorthreeleaguesweretobefoundthehomesofthepeople,collectedincozyvillages.Mostofthehouseswerethatchedhuts,withwalls of fishpole canes, but a few weremade of adobes and tile roofs. Thefurniture in the houses consisted chiefly of home-made crockery, withhammocks,cots,and,occasionally,chairs,andineveryhousewasthepictureofasaint.Thehouseswereallsolowastobewhollyconcealedfromaspectatoramileor so away,but almost every village couldbe located fromany pointaboutthevalley'sbrimbytheloftytowersofthechurches.TheamountoflaborthathasbeenexpendedinbuildinggreatstonechurchesintheOaxacaValleyisonly less astonishing than that which was necessary to build the greatstructureswhichaformerraceerectedinthisregion,ofwhichmanystrikingruinsremainnow.To the traveler with leisure and the right tastes, these ruinswould furnishmatters of interest sufficient to last through many vacations; but, for anordinarytraveler,therevelationsofthesimplehabits,thequietbutsufficientindustry,thegoodnatureandthecontentmentoftheliving,wouldbeanamplereturnforthetroubleofthejourney.WeYankeesareagreatpeople,ofcourse,buttheOaxacaIndians,withtheirvillagelife,have,fortimeoutofmind,beensettinganexampletoourfarmerswhichwehaveonlybeguntofollowinafew

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cases,likethefruit-growingvillagesofCalifornia.Ofcourse,theOaxacafarmerlosesanhourorsoateachendofhisday,goingtoandfromhiswork,buthetakeshis family alongwithhim, andveryoftenhis friendsandvisitors also,makesapicnicofhisday'slabor,raisesanamplecropforallneeds,andgetsthegoodoflifeashegoesalong.Thepeoplearepriest-riddenbeyonddoubt,butIdidnotobservethatthesaddlegalled10thejade.11Theyarecertainlyignorantandsuperstitious,but theywerenotsweatingundermortgagesorworryingabout the free coinageof silver. I shouldbe the last one tourge the Yankeefarmers to adopt the exact life of these Indians; but, on the other hand, tosubstitutethecivilizationofeithertheMohawkValleyortheKansasplainsforthatoftheOaxacaplateauwouldbeanoutrage.

o-O-o

10Gall—Makesorebywearorrubbing11Jade—Broken-downorworthlesshorse